Bánh chưng

Start your preparations the evening before by soaking both the rice and the bamboo leaves. Place the rice in a large bowl, covering it with water until it sits about two inches deep. Separately, submerge the leaves in a large roasting pan filled with water, using a plate as a weight to ensure they stay completely underwater.

In the morning, pour the rice into a strainer to drain before transferring it back into the bowl; you should notice it has expanded significantly in volume. Slowly incorporate the salt by scattering it across the rice and mixing thoroughly by hand to ensure even seasoning.

Slice the pork into uniform portions roughly the dimensions of a deck of cards (approximately 3 by 2 inches, with a thickness of ½ inch). When using pork leg, ensure each slice includes a bit of skin and fat for flavor. Combine the meat with the fish sauce and pepper in a bowl, tossing thoroughly to coat, and allow the mixture to marinate for half an hour.

While the leaves are draining, prepare them for assembly by first folding each one lengthwise along its spine with the matte side facing out, then folding it again crosswise. Trim the leaves with scissors so they measure 4¾ inches from the middle fold, resulting in a total length of 9½ inches when opened; you can use a ruler or the 5-inch interior of your wooden mold as a reference. Finally, rinse these sized segments and place them with the banana leaves for later use.

To cook the pork, warm the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Arrange the meat in an even layer and pour in any remaining marinade. Sear the pieces for approximately two minutes per side until they are just done, then move them to a plate. Separate the meat into four even servings and keep them ready for the next step.

Fill a large 12-quart pot halfway with water and bring it to a rolling boil using high heat. Once boiling, reduce the temperature and cover the pot to maintain the heat until you are ready to use it.

To prepare an individual cake, lay a 12-by-18-inch sheet of heavy-duty foil horizontally on your counter and center the mold on top of it. Use four bamboo leaves to create the outer frame: for each leaf, fold it lengthwise along the spine (matte side out), then fold it in half crosswise to mark the center. Open the leaf and pull the middle crease toward the spine to create a 90-degree angle, resembling a box corner, then fit it into one corner of the mold. Continue this process with the other three leaves, overlapping them in one direction until the mold is fully lined like a frame. Ensure the leaves are pressed firmly into the corners and stand straight against the walls.

Next, line the interior of the mold with banana leaves. Position the first leaf so one end is flush with the inner wall nearest you, covering the floor of the mold and draping over the opposite side. Lay a second leaf in the opposite direction so they overlap at the base and extend equally over the near and far edges. Finally, place a third leaf across the bottom perpendicular to the others, ensuring it covers the right and left sides. Once all four sides are covered, use your fingers to press the leaves firmly into the corners and base.

To assemble the filling, start by pouring 1 cup of rice into the mold, using your fingers to press it toward the sides. Next, add ½ cup of lightly packed mung beans into the middle and place a serving of pork on top. If the meat is from the leg, distribute the fat and skin evenly in the center so each serving is consistent; you may need to slice or separate the fat to achieve this. Layer another ½ cup of mung beans over the pork and top it off with a final cup of rice. The mold will be quite full at this point, so press the top layer of rice firmly toward the edges and into the corners.

To seal the cake, fold the side banana leaf flaps inward, followed by the far side, and then the flap closest to you. Apply firm pressure with your palm to compress the filling and create a level surface. Keeping one hand on the cake to secure it, carefully slide the mold upward and off, resting it on your forearm. Fold the top foil flap down and the bottom flap up over the cake; once it is stable, you can set the mold aside. Finish by folding the foil sides inward—similar to wrapping a present—to create a tidy, foil-wrapped square. Give the cake a gentle tap on your counter to settle the contents before setting it aside and repeating the process for the other three. Any remaining rice can be kept for other uses or discarded.

Secure each cake with kitchen string, tying loosely enough to allow for the rice to expand during the cooking process. Ensure the twine is slack enough that it does not indent the foil surface.

Bring the pot of water back to a boil and add the cakes, standing or stacking them as needed. Gently weigh them down with an empty saucepan to prevent floating and boil uncovered for 7 hours. Regularly replenish the pot with boiling water from a kettle to maintain the water level; a slight simmer is acceptable. Rotate the cakes every 2 hours for even cooking. Once the cakes stop floating—typically around the halfway mark—remove the weighted saucepan and continue boiling.

Transfer the cakes to a baking sheet using tongs, placing the most uniform side face down. Top with a second baking sheet and weight each cake with a 14- to 15-ounce food can. Allow them to press and cool for at least 1 to 2 hours before unwrapping.

The next morning, remove the foil, clean away any loose rice, and wrap each cake tightly in plastic wrap. For a festive presentation, tie them with colorful ribbons (red is traditional for luck). The cakes stay fresh at room temperature for 3 days, in the refrigerator for one week, or frozen for up to 3 months.

Enjoy bánh chưng two ways: served soft to highlight the subtle fragrance of the banana leaf, or pan-fried into crispy cakes. Accompany either version with a side of sugar for dipping: To serve the cake soft, use unflavored dental floss or linen string to slice through the sticky rice. Remove the plastic wrap and bamboo leaves, but keep the banana leaves underneath. Place four 20-inch lengths of string across the cake in an asterisk pattern (diagonal, horizontal, and vertical), pressing them slightly into the surface to secure. Invert the cake onto a plate, remove the remaining wrap and leaves, then pull each string upward through the cake to create eight even wedges. For chilled cakes, slice with a knife and microwave until soft before serving. To pan-fry, cut the cake into quarters and slice into ½-inch pieces. Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add half the slices and cook for 6 minutes until soft. Use a spatula to mash the pieces into a single pancake and fry for another 5–6 minutes until the bottom is golden and crisp. Flip the pancake—either with a skillet toss or using a plate—and cook the other side over medium-high heat for about 4 minutes. Serve hot, cut into wedges, and repeat for the second batch. [ 3 ]

To serve the cake soft, use unflavored dental floss or linen string to slice through the sticky rice. Remove the plastic wrap and bamboo leaves, but keep the banana leaves underneath. Place four 20-inch lengths of string across the cake in an asterisk pattern (diagonal, horizontal, and vertical), pressing them slightly into the surface to secure. Invert the cake onto a plate, remove the remaining wrap and leaves, then pull each string upward through the cake to create eight even wedges. For chilled cakes, slice with a knife and microwave until soft before serving.

To pan-fry, cut the cake into quarters and slice into ½-inch pieces. Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add half the slices and cook for 6 minutes until soft. Use a spatula to mash the pieces into a single pancake and fry for another 5–6 minutes until the bottom is golden and crisp. Flip the pancake—either with a skillet toss or using a plate—and cook the other side over medium-high heat for about 4 minutes. Serve hot, cut into wedges, and repeat for the second batch. [ 3 ]