LOBSTERS, CRABS, ETC

Note — Lobsters are seasonable all the year, but best from March to October. The flesh of the male lobster is the firmer, but the female is valued for its coral, lying inside the tail, which is used in sev- eral sauces and decorations on account of its beautiful color. Con- trary to much prejudice on the subject, all parts of the lobster are wholesome except the stomach lying just back of the head and a black or bluish vein running from near the head to the extremity of the tail. These should be removed after it is boiled. The liver, frequently rejected from its. being a greenish color when boiled, is, in fact, the most delicate part of the fish. Always buy a lively lobster-— never a dead one — and boil it yourself, as they should be alive when put into the pot. Dead lobsters will be watery, soft, and not full when boiled. The smaller lobsters are the best — those weighing from one and a half to three pounds — and should be weighty as compared to bulk. . Should ready-boiled lobsters be purchased, test them by gently drawing back the tail part way, which should rebound with a spring if it was not dead before boiling, in which case it should be rejected.

304. Boiled Lobster — The lobster suffers less upon being killed in cold water made hot, as it is dead as soon as it becomes warm, and the flesh will also be firmer. It requires from fifteen to thirty

minutes to boil, according to size; qui/e large ones perhaps an hour. When boiled take it from the kettle, split it in hal-f from the head to tail, remove the stomach and vein, crack the claws so that the meat may be removed readily, and serve on a platter. Lettuce and other con- comitants of a salad should also be placed on the table or platter. — Peirre Blot, Prof, of Gastronomy, Etc.

305. Steamed Lobsters — Many persons think the lobster quite superior when steamed instead of boiled — the meat is dryer and finer. Place them in a steamer or fish-kettle, the boiling water not touching the fish, and steam twenty to thirty minutes, or until it turns a bright red color; take out, and dress in any manner as though boiled.

306. Lobster Croquettes — Take any of the lobster remain- ing from table, and pound it until the dark, light meat and coral are well mixed; put with it not quite as much fine bread-crumbs; season with pepper, salt and a very little cayenne pepper; add a little melted butter, about two tablespoons, if the bread is rather dry; form into egg- shaped or round balls; roll them in egg9 then in fine crumbs, and fry in boiling lard.

307. Deviled Lobsters — Take out all the meat from a boiled lobster, reserving the coral; season highly with mustard, cayenne, salt and some kind of table sauce; stew until well mixed, and put it in a covered saucepan, with just enough hot water to keep from burning; rub the coral smooth until it is thin enough to pour easily, then stir it into the saucepan. The dressing should be prepared before the meat is put on the fire, and which ought to boil but once before the coral is put in, stir in a heaping tablespoon of butter, and when it boils again it is done and should be taken up at once, as too much cooking toughens the meat.

308. Scalloped Lobster — Butter a deep dish, and cover the bottom with fine bread-crumbs; put on this a layer of chopped lobster, with pepper and salt; so on alternately until the dish is filled, having crumbs on top. Put on bits of butter, moisten with milk, and bake about twenty minutes.

309. Crabs — Are boiled like lobsters, and may be served the same as lobsters in a salad. When well washed and cleaned put them in a sauce-pan, with slices of onion, carrots, parsley, chives if you have them, thyme, bay leaves, salt and pepper corns; half cover them with white wine, add butter, and put over a good fire to boil till done.

310. Soft Shell Crabs, Fried— Prepare the crabs by cutting off about one-fourth of an inch of the front part or mouth, and scraping out the fins from both sides under the shell, after which rinse well in cold water; fry in butter or good lard until a little crisp; when nearly cooked the shell turns red. Some prefer them breaded the same as oysters. Serve on toast with a butter sauce. Garnish with a few sprigs of parsley and some slices of onion, either or both. — Boston Oyster House> cor% Madison and Clark Sts.} Chicago.

311. Boiled Hard Shell Crabs, Long Island Style— Use a

deep pot and fill it half full of seaweed or twigs; put in enough sea water or salted water to cover the seagrass or twigs and bring it to a boil ; then fill the pot with the crabs, which have been previously pricked with a fork to let the water out, cover, and keep the water boiling until the crabs are of the proper redness. This gives you your crabs free from water.

312. Deviled Crabs — Prepare same as deviled lobster, sub- stituting for the coral and vinegar some fine cracker, first moistened with a tablespoon of cream. It may be served in the back shell of the crab. Serve with cream, crackers, and put a sprig of parsley on each shell, ranging them on a large platter.

313. Shrimps— Boil and shell them; serve hot with tomato, Chili or any other desired sauce or catsup. — Boston Oyster House, cor, Madison and Clark Sts., Chicago.

314. Terrapin in Chafing Dish, Maryland Style— First

cut their heads off, then place them in a pot of boiling water; let them boil until the shell begins to peel; then take off the shell (which will come off very easily if boiled enough), remove the gall, sand bag and entrails; the balance is good; place in a chafing dish with spirit lamp under it (on your dinner table) ; season with red pepper, salt, and but- ter, one-fourth to one-half pound; add a glass of Madeira, let simmer for half an hour, but it must be stirred all the time. — By an Old Member of the Maryla?id Club.

Note — The French were the first among European nations to use frogs as food. Frog eating has become quite general in America, and they are now ranked as delicacies. Only the hind legs and quarters are used.

315. Frogs, Fried — The most popular way of cooking is fry- ing, either plain, breaded or with an tgg batter, the same as oysters, but longer, as they should never be underdone. They may be cooked in other ways as well.

316. Frogs, Stewed — Skin, boil five minutes, and throw in cold water to cool, and drain. Put in a stew-pan (for two dozen frogs) two ounces of butter; when melted lay in the frogs and fry about two minutes, tossing them in the pan occasionally. Put over them a tea- spoon flour by sprinkling, and stir; add two sprigs parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, ten cloves, a clove of garlic, salt, white pepper and half a pint of white wine; boil gently until done, and remove the legs; reduce the sauce by boiling, strain, and mix in the yelks of two eggs; pour over the legs and serve.

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VEGETABLES.

Note. — The fresher all green vegetables are, the more wholesome; when they are so they break or snap crisply, but should they bend without breaking, or have a wilted appearance, they are stale. Most vegetables, if wilted, but not too badly, may be considerably restored by sprinkling with cold water and placing them in a cool, dark place. After being thoroughly washed nearly all vegetables should be placed in cold water for some considerable time before cooking. Soft water is much better to use for cooking vegetables, if pure and clean; but if hard water is used, have it freshly drawn, and put in a little soda to soften. Nearly all vegetables should be thoroughly cooked, and are spoiled if either over or underdone; those young and tender require less time than those more matured. All green vegetables, with some exceptions, should be cooked in plenty of salted water, putting them in at its first boil, as the evaporation tends to harden it; the quantity of salt to use is a heaping tablespoon to each gallon of water. All vegeta- bles are done as soon as tender, and should then be immediately taken up and drained on a colander. Onions should be soaked in salted warm water previous to cooking, to partly remove any strong odor they may possess. Peas, string beans, and green corn should not be prepared for cooking until about ready to be used. Turnips, carrots, and onions should not be split, but sliced in rings across, as they thus cook sooner.

A little sugar added to turnips, beets, peas, corn, squash and pumpkin will improve them, particularly if poor. A very small bit of red pepper put in the water in which either meat or vegetables are boiled will, to some extent, deodorize the steam, and save the disagreeable odor arising from greens, cabbage, onions, green beans, mutton, corned beef, hams, etc., or a small piece of charcoal will effect the same object. When vegetables are to be served with salted meats, the meat should be cooked first, the liquor saved, and the vegetables boiled in it. Nearly all' vegetables are injured by being boiled with fresh meat, and they also impart a bad flavor to the meat.

If home-grown, gather spinach, string beans, peas, asparagus, etc., early in the morning, when the dew is on, and put into cold water, until ready to be prepared for cooking — some add a little salt to the water — but if quite fresh, only let them remain in ten to fifteen minutes, and then drain. If purchased at market, and of doubtful freshness, let them lie longer in the salted water. *

For general directions concerning potatoes, tomatoes, etc., see under each respective head. For celery, chiccory, cress, horseradish, lettuce, parsley, radishes, sorrel, for relishes or garnishes, see Salads and Dressings, page 85.

317. Asparagus — Note — Gather with the morning dew upon ft; do not cut it off, but snap it, avoiding the hard or woody part of the stalk; tie in bunches, eight to twelve stalks to the bunch, according to

size; when purchased the bunches come in much larger sizes, and should be divided. If to be kept for some time before using (never more than a day), place the bunch upright in about half an inch of cold water, and keep cool. The larger stalks, or first cut, is prepared vinegrette, with white sauce, or fried; the small ones, or second cut, like green peas, and is better if taken from the water when still firm; if boiled soft it loses its flavor.

318. Asparagus — Wash clean, break off the white part, and put the green part into boiling water, slightly salted; boil five minutes, and pour off the water; add more, boiling hot, and boil ten to fifteen minutes; then put in a lump of butter, salt and pepper (some stir in a thickening made of one teaspoon flour mixed with cold water) ; toast three thin slices bread, spread them with butter, put in a dish and turn the asparagus over it. The last water must be boiled down until just enough for the gravy.

319. Asparagus — Make a gravy similar to the above, using the water in which the asparagus has been boiled; cut the asparagus into small bits, rejecting the white ends, and put it in a hot dish; turn the gravy over it and serve.

320. Beans — Note — All stringed beans, as well as all green shelled beans should be young and tender to be nice. There being many varieties, they are in season from the latter part of June to the middle or end of September.

321. Butter or Wax Beans— Cut off the ends of the pods and carefully remove the strings from both sides; cut each bean lengthwise in two or three strips, and soak in cold water for half an hour; take a quart of dressed beans, considerably more than cover them with boiling water, and cook until quite tender, when they will sink to the bottom. They are better if boiled slowly for three hours. Drain well in the kettle and return to the fire; add a dressing of half a gill of cream, one and a-half ounces butter, one even teaspoon salt, and half a teaspoon of pepper.

322. String Beans — Use two quarts of beans; string, snap and wash them; boil in water enough to more than float them for fifteen min- utes; draw off, and put on again in about two quarts of boiling water; boil an hour and a-half, or till tender, and just before taking up, season with salt and pepper, and stir in half a tablespoon butter rubbed with two tablespoons flour and half a pint of sweet cream.

323. Green String Beans (Snap Beans), French Haricots, Kidney Beans, Etc., with the Pods — Remove the string or thread on both sides by partly breaking one end of the pod and pulling length- wise; repeat on opposite end; cut them in half -inch pieces, soak in cold water and put into boiling water with a little salt. Boil them until cooked tender; take them from the fire and drain.

324. Green Shelled Beans — Boil for half an hour in water sufficient to cover, and add a dressing in the manner as for string beans, No. 322.

325. Dry Beans—Lima, White or Colored— Note— Dry beans should be soaked in water for some time, from five or six up to twenty-four hours, if a year or two old; if doubtful as to age, it will do no harm to soak them the longer time, and drain. If white beans are used, the smaller sized ones are the best. Their nutriment, although over-rated, is great, and for making a very palatable and cheap soup are very valuable.

To Boil — Put the beans in a saucepan with cold water, and boil gently until tender; as the water evaporates, fill up with cold water. Never use any salt in boiling dry beans, as it prevents their cooking. When boiled tender, drain, and they are ready to be baked, or used as they are.

With Pickled Pork or Bacon — Boil a quart of beans as directed above; cut in dice half a pound of salt pork or bacon — about medium fat and lean — and put it in a sauce-pan over the fire; when half fried, add the beans, mix and stir for a minute, and place in a warm oven for about twenty minutes, stirring occasionally; when done, sprinkle on the top some chopped parsley, pepper and salt to taste, if not already sufficiently salt. Ham or fresh pork may be used instead of salt pork or bacon, if preferred.

326. Boston Baked Beans — Soak in fresh water over night a quart of small white beans; in the morning change the water and put them in a porcelain kettle, with water enough to cover, and parboil until the skins wrinkle; then pour off that water, mix the beans with salt, and put them in an earthen bean-pot (do not use a tin pan) ; take a piece of fat salt pork, score the top and place in the middle of the beans; in a cup mix a tablespoon molasses, a teaspoon dry mustard, a half teaspoon of baking soda, and pour over the beans; fill the pot with warm water, cover the top with the earthen lid, and bake in a slow oven all day, being careful not to let the water dry out, and thus dry the beans; keep replacing the water until about three o'clock, and then let them remain in the oven untouched until four. If desired for supper, place in the oven about half an hour before, but add no more water, and do not have the oven too hot, so as to parch or dry the beans, the object being to have them moist, but hot, when served. — Palmer House, Chicago.

Either of the Brown Breads, Nos. 1 1, 12 or 95, should be served with the above.

327. Baked Beans — (See Yankee Pork and Beans, No. 160).

328. Beets — Cut off the leaves, and in washing use care not to break off the little fine roots, which would let out the juice, and the beets lose their deep red color. They should be boiled in plenty of water; for young ones two hours, if old four to five hours; test them with a fork to see when tender; take them out, drop into a pan of cold water, and slip off the skin with the hands; slice them crosswise, and place in a dish; add salt, pepper, butter, and if not very sweet a teaspoon of sugar; set them over hot water to heat and serve hot, with or without

vinegar. Should any remain put them m a stone jar whole, cover with vinegar, keep in a cool place, and use as wanted, slicing them then. A root or two of horseradish put into the jar will prevent a white scum arising on the vinegar.

329. Beets — I^oast them in hot ashes or in the oven, turning them in the pan carefully with a knife, and when tender, peel, slice and dress with salt, pepper, butter and vinegar.

330. Harvest Beets — Take young beets, and after boiling and skinning, mash them with boiled potatoes, and season with salt and a large lump of butter, but no milk; place them in a dish, make a hole in the center, in which put a large lump of butter; sprinkle over with pepper, and serve at once. Called harvest beets, as at that time beets are quite young and sweet, and this dish is generally served at that season.

331. Beets Stewed — Clean and wash well, but do not skin them; put in an earthen vessel a layer of rye straw, moisten it slightly and place the beets on it ; cover and place the vessel in a slow oven for five or six hours, then cool, skin and cut them in thin slices; melt some butter in a stewpan, and sprinkle in a pinch of flour, a teaspoon of chopped parsley, salt and pepper and then the beets; simmer twenty minutes, add a few drops vinegar, and serve.

333. Broccoli — Cook same as cauliflower (see No. 340).

333. Cabbage — Note. — Solid, hard heads should always be selected; soft ones are nearly worthless for almost any culinary pur- pose; never buy a cabbage that has the least rot about it. A slaw cut- ter is a very useful implement in the preparation of all sliced or shreded cabbage, for cold or hot slaw, etc.

To Boil. — Take off the outer leaves, wash thoroughly, cut off the stalk and stump, and put into boiling water, with a little salt and a small piece of charcoal, which will to some extent dispel the effluvia when boiling; boil slowly until tender; take up and drain in a colander.

334. Heidelberg Cabbage — Divide in halves two small but solid heads of hard red cabbage; lay the split side down and slice downwards the whole cabbage in narrow strips or shreds; put into a sauce-pan a tablespoon of clean drippings or any clear fat, and when hot put in the cabbage, three tablespoons vinegar and one onion, in which three or four cloves have been buried; boil two hours and a half; if it becomes too dry and is in danger of burning add a very little water.

335. South Carolina Cabbage — Slice or chop an ordinary sized cabbage quite fine, and cover it in a sauce-pan with boiling water; boil fifteen minutes; drain well, and add the following dressing: Half teacup white-wine vinegar, two-thirds cup of sugar, salt, pepper, half a teaspoon mustard, and two teaspoons salad oil; boil, and when hot, add a cup of cream and one egg stirred together; mix quickly and thoroughly with the cabbage; cook a moment, and serve hot.

336. Stuffed Cabbage — Cut out the heart of a large fresh cabbage by gently spreading back the leaves, to do which without breaking pour over it boiling water; fill the vacancy with finely chopped and cooked veal or chicken and rolled into balls with the yelk of egg. Tie it firmly together with twine, or tie it in a cloth and boil in a covered kettle two hours. This is a very fine dish and quite economical in using up cold meats.

337. Carrots, to Clean and Prepare — Trim off all the small roots; wash and scrape them gently, the skin only; wash well; drain and cut them in slices a quarter inch in thickness, either across or lengthwise.

338* Carrots, to Boil — When prepared as above, put them in a sauce-pan with a little salt and enough water to more than cover; boil gently until tender, and drain; the time will depend "upon how young and tender they are.

339. Carrots Stewed — Divide them lengthwise, and boil till tender — from one to two hours; have ready a sauce-pan with one or two tablespoons butter and a small cup of cream ; slice the boiled carrots very thin, and put in the sauce-pan; add salt, pepper, and let them stew ten or fifteen minutes, stirring gently once or twice, and serve in a vegetable dish. Carrots may also be boiled with meat, like turnips or parsnips, but take longer to cook.

340. Cauliflower or Broccoli, to Boil — Choose those very white, close and compact; trim off all decayed leaves, and cut the stock off close to the head; open the flower a little in places and wash; place them, head down, in salt and water for two hours previous to dressing, which will draw out all insects; put into boiling water, with a heaping tablespoon of salt to each two quarts of water; boil briskly fifteen to twenty minutes over a good fire, keeping the sauce-pan uncovered, skimming the water several times. When boiled tender, take up, drain, and if large heads, place upright in a dish, and serve with plain melted butter, pouring a little on the flower; or a white sauce or drawn butter may be used with it.

341. Green Corn — Note — There are many varieties of corn cooked in the ear, of which those known as " evergreen " and sweet corn are perhaps the best; it should be freshly plucked, and not taken out of the husk until just before being required to cook. It is best when eaten from the cob, with butter and salt.

342. Boiled Corn — After well cleaning the ears, removing all silk, and cutting off the end of the cob close to the corn, put them in salted boiling water; boil for an hour; or it may be boiled in the husk; remove the husk, and serve quite hot. When thoroughly cooked is a very enjoyable dish.

•343. Stewed Corn — Carefully cut the corn off the ear, so as not to cut into the cob, and to three pints corn add three tablespoons butter, pepper and salt, with enough water to just cover; place in a stewpan, cover, and cook slowly, from half to three quarters of an hour, often stirring it, and adding more water if necessary; a few

minutes before it is done, add half a cup of sweet cream, thickened with a teaspoon of flour. Some stew tomatoes separately, and mix with the.corn just before serving.

344. Corn Oysters — To one quart grated green corn (that called evergreen is the best) add three eggs and three or four grated crackers; beat well, and season with pepper and salt; have ready in a skillet, butter and lard, or beef drippings, in equal proportions, quite hot, but not scorching; drop in little cakes about the size of an oyster, using a teaspoon for the purpose; when brown, turn, and fry on the other side, watching constantly to prevent burning. If the fat is just the right heat, the oysters will be light, and have much the flavor of fried oysters. Serve hot, and keep the dish well covered. By beating the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and adding just before frying, they will be still better.

345. Corn Fritters or Mock Oysters — Grate six ears of corn, and mix with one tablespoon flour, two eggs; salt and pepper to taste; drop spoonfuls in hot lard and fry like oysters. — Palmer House, Chicago.

346. Cucumbers — Raw — Select those of medium size and very fresh, which have not lain in the sun after gathering, and put them in cold water half an hour ; an hour before they are required peel thin, and slice on a slaw cutter set close, or very thin with a knife, commencing at the thick or blow end, or they are likely to be bitter; let the slices drop into a pan of cold water, in which let them lie for ten minutes; pour off the water and replace once or twice; finally cover them with ice, and set away in the refrigerator until wanted to serve, when salt and pepper them and pour over good cider vinegar; some add salad oil also.

From being an indigestible, strong and even dangerous edible, by this process they become wholesome and very relishable. Sliced onions are also served with them, but they should be mild, the Bermuda onion being the best.

347. Cucumbers — Boiled and Fried — Peel them, split them lengthwise in four parts; take out the seeds, and cut into pieces about an inch long; put them in boiling water with a little salt, and boil until cooked done; put them on a towel to dry; put some butter in a frying- pan, and place it over a good fire; when hot put in it some chopped parsley, salt, pepper; two minutes after, put in the cucumbers, fry a few minutes, tossing them now and then and serve.

348. Egg Plant — Note — The purple variety of an oval shape is the best. It should be firm, but not ripe.

Peel and slice one or two of medium size; put in cold water a little salted; boil until tender; drain, mash fine, season with salt and pepper, and add a beaten egg and a tablespoon of flour. Fry in little cakes in butter, or butter and lard in equal parts.

349. Egg Plant — Another Method — Cut in slices; lay in cold, well salted water for an hour or more; roll in egg and cracker crumbs,

and fry with a little butter. Parsnips and oyster plant may also be cooked in same manner, but the latter should be made into smaller cakes, to resemble oysters.

350. Greens— The following plants and portions of young vege- tables make good greens: Young beets, beet tops, cowslips, chiccory, chevel, dandelion, dock, horseradish tops, young turnips and tops, young milk weed, and many others peculiar to different localities. The dande- lion and dock are especially fine, producing marked effects as blood purifiers and in clearing the complexion.

They should always be cooked in salted water, to which should be added a little soda or a pinch of carbonate of ammonia, to preserve their green color. All greens should be very thoroughly washed in several waters, after removing the roots and any dried or dead stalks which may have been gathered. They should be either ^ cooked in soft water or water freshly drawn, and put in at its first boiling.

The time required is indefinite, depending upon how young they maybe, or the variety used; are done always as soon as tender, and should then be taken up, and very thoroughly drained by placing in a colander, and squeezing with a wooden spoon.

351. Mushrooms— Although the majority of mushrooms are edible as well as very delicious, they differ so little in appearance from those that are poisonous— being of the same family — that the safest plan is to purchase only those canned or bottled. They are largely imported from France and Germany, and this industry is attracting considerable attention in this country. There are two kinds used here, the small or button mushroom, varying in size from as large as the thumb joint to a little larger, and a much larger variety termed the "umbrella," from its shape. Those which grow spontaneously are in season in September and October. Those cultivated from mushroom spawn are grown in cellars, or very rich damp ground.

The cooking of mushrooms may be readily summed up in the directions to cook the same as oysters, stewed, fried, broiled, or as a soup. They are made into various condiments, sauces and catsups, also dried and powdered, their flavor being added to meat gravies, game or soup.

352. Okra— Grows in the shape of pods, and is of a gelatinous character, much used for soup, and is also pickled; it may be boiled as follows: Put the young and tender pods of long white okra in salted boiling water in granite, porcelain or a tin-lined sauce-pan— as contact with iron will discolor it; boil fifteen minutes; remove the stems, and serve with butter, pepper, salt and vinegar if preferred.

353. Onions— There are many varieties, of which the Spanish, imported from Bermuda, are the mildest and best; a similar kind are grown to some extent in New Jersey.

354. Boiled Onions— Wash and peel; boil ten minutes; pour off the water, and add more boiling hot; boil a second time, and drain; pour on more boiling water; add some salt, and boil an hour; then place in a colander, turn a saucer over them, and press firmly to drive

off all the water; put them in a dish; add butter and pepper, and serve. Old onions require about two hours to boil.

355. Baked Onions — Use the large Spanish onion, as best for this purpose; wash them clean, but do not peel, and put into a sauce- pan, with slightly salted water; boil an hour, replacing the water with more boiling hot as it evaporates; turn off the water, and lay the onions on a cloth to dry them well; roll each one in a piece of buttered tissue paper, twisting it at the top to keep it on, and bake in a slow oven about an hour, or until tender all through; peel them; place in a deep dish, and brown slightly, basting well with butter, for fifteen minutes; season with salt and pepper, and pour some melted butter over them.

356. Fried Onions — Slice, and boil ten minutes at a time in three waters (unless the Spanish onions are used); drain, and fry in butter or beef drippings, stirring often; season and serve hot.

357. Onions with Beefsteak — See Beefsteak and Onions, No.

358. Oyster Plant — Salsify or Vegetable Oysters — Wash thoroughly, scrape with a knife, cut across in rather thin slices, stew in water enough to cover them until tender, putting in a piece of salt codfish for seasoning, which remove before serving; thicken with flour and butter rubbed together; toast slices of bread, put in a dish and pour over; the codfish imparts an oyster flavor. Or, after stewing until tender in clear water only, mash, season with pepper and salt, and serve.

359. Boiled Parsnips— Wash and scrape them, and remove any black specks or blemishes, and if quite large, quarter the thick part. Put them into boiling water, salted with one heaping tablespoon to half a gallon water; boil rapidly until tender, drain, and serve in a vegetable dish; is usually served with salt fish, boiled pork or beef.

360. Stewed Parsnips — Wash, scrape and slice half an inch thick, put in a frying-pan with half pint hot water and a tablespoon butter, season, cover closely, and stew until the water is all cooked out, stirring to prevent burning; they thould be a cream, light brown.

361. Fried Parsnips — Scrape and slice them lengthwise, about a quarter inch thick, and fry brown in a little butter or clear beef drip- pings; if previously boiled, they will fry sooner, or the remnants of those boiled for dinner may be used.

362. Green Peas — Do not shell them much in advance of the time required to cook; canned peas should be rinsed before using; wash lightly two quarts shelled peas, and put into enough water to cover; boil twenty minutes, season, and add more hot water to prevent burning, if needed; also two tablespoons butter smoothly rubbed into two of flour; stir well and boil five minutes longer; should the pods be quite clean and fresh, boil tnem first in the water, remove and put in the peas. The Germans prepare a very palatable dish of sweet young pods alone, by simply stirring in a little butter with some savory herbs.

363. Peas Stewed in Cream— Into a sauce-pan of boiling- water put two or three pints of young green peas, and when nearly done and tender, drain in a colander dry; then melt two ounces butter in a

clean stew-pan, thicken evenly with a little flour, and hold it over the fire, but do not let it brown; mix in a gill of cream, add half a teaspoon white sugar, bring to a boil, pour in the peas, and keep the pan movmg for two minutes, until well heated, and serve hot.

364. Dry or Split Peas— May be prepared and served in the same manner in every particular as dry beans, with the exception that they require to be soaked a shorter time before cooking.

Potatoes— Note— This fine esculent of the tuber specie is indige- nous to South America, where it still grows wild, but is known to and provides food to more than half the civilized globe. It was early domesticated in Virginia, about Sir Walter Raleigh's time from Chili or Peru and was first introduced into England, about 1586 ; but little attention was given to it, and it is now but little over one hundred years since its cultivation has been common even in Ireland, where it saves half its inhabitants from fasting all the year round. It is said to have been introduced there at the time of a famine, from which fact, as well as its forming the chief food of the people, it acquired the name of Irish potato, which is now commonly used in contra-distmction to the sweet or yam potato. . .

The potato differs more than other vegetables in size, color or quality, from the manner of propagation or species ; it matures of all sizes, even in its kind, and distinct varieties are either white, pink, reddish, or blueish. Those properly cultivated in sandy soil will possess much starch, and, as a consequence, will cook dry and mealy. _

The o-reen appearance frequently noted upon the skin of either new or old potatoes is produced by what is known as solanine, arising from exposure to the,sun's rays, when the tuber is grown quite near the surface or partly out of the ground, and even by long exposure to the light after being gathered. This is developed both in the sprouts and skin, and is very unwholesome, if not poisonous, imparting an acrid taste to the mouth and dryness to the throat. It should be always cut off, or the potato entirely rejected. .

To Select— As a general rule the smaller the eyes the better the potato Choose those of medium size, and smooth as possible. By cutting a slice off the larger end it may be discovered if sound ; if spotted or have a large hollow they are not, and therefore inferior. Ot the variety to select from it depends greatly on the season ; some sorts keep better than others; others decay and go out of market as the sea- son advances, while out of the hundreds of distinct species cultivated even in this country, each family will have its favorite. It is a fact, however, that those of forty years ago are scarcely to be found now while those that supplanted them are again superseded by later and more improved productions yearly. Potatoes should be kept in a dark

but cool and dry cellar, to prevent vegetating.

To Prepare— Old. potatoes should be peeled before boiling or stew- ing, and immediately dropped into cold water, to remain until required, in order to save them clear in color, as exposure to the air darkens • them ; wipe each one dry before cooking ; for the same reason, when sliced, let the slices drop into a pan of cold water to lie.

Peel matured potatoes as thinly as possible, as the better part lies nearest the skin. Scrape new potatoes also thinly — when quite young and tender the skins may be very easily removed with a scrubbing- brush — then drop them in water to keep them white.

To Cook — Steaming is now generally regarded as far preferable to boiling potatoes; first, from being more easily accomplished, and next, they cook a little sooner, and if watched, frequently tested, and taken up as soon as done, will preserve more of the starch, t. e.y be more mealy and dry. The great point in steaming, boiling or baking the potato is to know when done, and act accordingly, or they will be watery, or "soggy," as it is homely, but expressively, termed. . For this reason, too, it is essential that potatoes of a uniform size should be selected for each cooking, commencing with the largest, and continue each time until the supply is exhausted. Quite large potatoes, for steaming or boiling, should be cut into four parts, smaller ones into two, and remove the middle or core, if hollow or defective, also all worm holes or other blemishes. Very old potatoes may be vastly im- proved by soaking in water over night; if quite watery, a small piece of lime dropped into the water in which they are boiling will cause them to cook dryer than without. Some kinds of potatoes boil in pieces before fairly done; some salt added to the water will obviate this; they will, however (as well as any other vegetables when salted), be longer in cooking. Either Irish or sweet potatoes, when frozen, should not be thawed before putting in to bake. New potatoes are better baked than by any other process of cooking, and should be scrubbed and rinsed very clean, many persons regarding their delicate skins the more edible part. New potatoes should be boiled in two waters; put on two kettles of water at the same time, place them in a wire basket, which set into one, and, when about half done, change to the othe

365. Potatoes a la Parisienne — Wash and rub, with a coarse cloth or scrubbing-brush, new potatoes, drop into boiling water and boil briskly until done, and no more; press a potato against the side of the kettle with a fork; if done, it will yield to a gentle pressure; in a sauce- pan have ready some butter and cream, hot, but not boiling, a little green parsley, pepper and salt; drain the potatoes, add the mixture, put over hot water for a minute or two, and serve.

366. Potatoes a la Francaise {French Fried) — Peel and slice the potatoes as nearly the same size as possible; in a frying-pan have some hot butter or drippings, in which fry the potatoes until nearly cooked both sides; take them out of the fat and make it quite boiling hot; throw in the potatoes again for a minute or two until suffi- ciently crisp and they are done; putting them in a second time to the fat causes the slices to swell or puff up, which produces a light and desirable

appearance and are delicious ; after they are done place them in a cloth before the fire to drain out the grease; after sprinkling with salt, serve hot. 4

367. Lyonnaise Potatoes — One quart cold boiled potatoes cut into dice, three tablespoons butter, one of chopped onions and one of chopped parsley, pepper and salt; season the potatoes with the salt and pepper, fry the onions in the butter, and wrhen they are yellow add the potatoes; stir with a fork, being careful not to break them; when hot add the parsley, and cook two minutes longer; serve at once on a hot dish.

368. Potatoes— Kentucky Style — Slice potatoes thin on a slaw cutter placed over a pan of water, and .let stand half an hour, which hardens them; put them in a pudding-dish or dripping-pan, with salt, pepper and about half a pint of milk; bake for an hour, take out and add a lump of butter half the size of an egg cut in small bits and scattered over the top. The quantity of milk cannot be exactly given; enough to moisten the potatoes, with a little left as a gravy.

369. Saratoga Chips — Thinly peel and slice on a slaw cutter over a pan of cold water four large potatoes, using new when in season; salt the water and let stand while breakfast is preparing; take handfuls of the potatoes at a time, drain and dry them on a napkin; separate the slices and drop a handful at a time in boiling lard, without contact with each other; stir with a fork until a light brown or crisp, as desired; skim out, drain well and serve in an open dish. Are very good cold as well.

370. Tremont Potatoes — Take cold boiled potatoes of uni- form medium size and split lengthwise into quarters or sixths; fry like doughnuts in boiling lard until the outside is browned or crisped; skim out and drain; before serving, sprinkle a little salt over them.

371. Ringed Potatoes — Peel some large sized potatoes, then cut them round and round as an apple is pared; fry in clean sweet lard like fritters until brown, drain on a sieve, sprinkle fine salt over them and serve.

372. Fried Raw Potatoes. — Pare and slice thinly into cold water some medium-sized potatoes, drain in a colander and put into a frying-pan in which is two tablespoons melted butter or clarified drip- pings, or half of each; cover closely ten minutes, removing only to stir them from the bottom to keep from burning; cook another ten minutes, stirring until lightly browned.

Sweet potatoes may be prepared in the same way.

373. Boiled Fried Potatoes. — After boiling let them cool, or use cold boiled potatoes; slice evenly, but only medium thin, and cook same as preceding receipt. They will cook in about half the time of raw potatoes.

374. Mashed Potatoes — Note — Simple as the operation would appear, some skill is required to mash potatoes properly, and for

. this purpose the old wooden masher is preferable to the perforated iron

one more recently in vogue. When mashed they should be dipped out lightly into a hot covered dish and delicately shaped into a mealy heap, instead of being stirred, packed and patted into a rounded mass.

Pare potatoes and boil; drain and mash in the kettle until devoid of lumps; add milk or cream, butter and salt; beat like cake with a large spoon; the longer the better; turn them into a covered dish, smooth over the top, place a lump of butter in the center; do not serve them too moist.

Or, when mashed, add one or two eggs, well beaten; pepper and salt; put them in a baking dish, brush over the top with sweet milk, and place in a hot oven about twenty minutes.

375* Potato Balls — Mash six boiled potatoes and add enough cream or milk to make them a little soft; half a cup of grated ham — the bits too dry for other purposes may be grated— a teaspoon chopped parsley, and half a teaspoon each of pepper and salt, less of the latter if the ham is rather salt; mix all well and stir in the yelks of two eggs; form into little balls and fry a light brown. Serve with a good brown gravy.

376. Potato Snow — Take large and very white potatoes, free from spots or blemishes as possible, and boil them in their skins in salt and water until perfectly tender, but not overdone; drain and dry them thoroughly near the fire, and peel; put a hot dish before the fire, and rub the potatoes through a coarse sieve on to it; do not touch them afterwards or the flakes will fall; serve as hot as possible. Six potatoes is sufficient for three persons.

377. Potatoes for Ea;ch Day of the Week— On Sunday, peel, steam and mash; add milk, butter and salt, and then steam and beat up like cake batter until nice and light; the longer the better. — Monday, baked potatoes in the skins; be sure to take up when done, or they will be wrinkled and watery; if not served immediately, do them up in a napkin and tie close to keep hot. — Tuesday, peel them and bake with roast beef, cooking them under the meat. — Wednesday, prepare in Kentucky style (see No. 368).— Thursday, peel, steam and serve whole. — Friday, peel, cut in thin slices lengthwise, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and fry on a griddle greased with butter or beef drippings, and turn like pancakes. — Saturday, potatoes boiled in their jackets.

378. Sweet Potatoes — Note — There are doubts as to their origin, the evidence being in favor of both American and East India ma- ternity; was known to Europe very long before the Irish potato. A variety known at the South as yam potatoes is regarded as one of the best, and are there generally called yams only. It is but a few years since they have been cultivated north of Virginia, but they are now produced in Ohio, Illinois and some other Western States and in New Jersey. Those from the warmer climates are yellow in external appearance, while those of the North vary from a dirty to a pinkish red. The best are brought from Carolina, Virginia or Georgia, and the next from New Jersey.

To Cook — The cookery of the sweet potato, yam potato or yam, may be briefly summed up by directions to cook them in all ways and particulars as directed for the common or Irish potato. They require a longer time to cook, however.

379. Sweet Potatoes — Dress them clean and bake in an oven an hour, or place in a steamer and steam from a half to three-quarters of an hour; or, when steamed and nearly, done, scrape and peel them, place in a pan and bake half an hour; or, cut them (steamed or boiled) in slices and fry in butter or lard; or, peel and slice when raw, and fry a layer at a time on a griddle or in a frying-pan, with a little melted lard, using care not to cook them too long, or they will become hard; or, drop in boiling lard in a frying-pan, turn them till a nice brown on both sides; or, halve or quarter them and bake in a pan with roast beef, basting them often with its drippings.

380. Baked Sweet Potatoes — Wash, scrape and split them lengthwise; steam them half an hour, and then put them in a pan with lumps of butter, pepper and salt; sprinkle thickly with sugar, and bake a nice brown. Cook the Hubbard squash in the same manner, and with the addition of a little sugar they closely resemble this dish.

381. Salsify — See Oyster Plant, No. 358.

382. Summer Squash or Cymlings — By pressing the nail through the skin you can tell whether young, and consequently tender. If young, boil whole without peeling or removing the seeds; or cut across in thick slices; use as little water as possible (or steam them) for half to three-quarters of an hour; drain thoroughly; mash, and set back to dry out most of the remaining moisture for ten or fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally; then season with butter, salt, pepper and a little cream. If old ones are used, cut them up, take out the seeds, and season as above; they will require somewhat longer time to boil.

383. Winter Squash or Pumpkin — Cut them up, take out the inside; pare the pieces, and stew in as little water as possible; cook an hour; mash them in the kettle, and if too moist or watery, let it stand on the fire a short time until dry, stirring to prevent burning; season with butter, cream, salt and pepper. If not very sweet, a little sugar will improve it. They may also be steamed, and served either in the shell or scraped out; put in a pan mashed, seasoned as above, and again made hot before serving.

Hubbard squash may be baked in the same manner as sweet potatoes. See No. 380.

384. Tomato — Note — This highly popular vegetable, like the potato, is a native of South America. But little over fifty years ago the tomato was not used in the Northern States, and seldom in the South, and when grown it was as a curiosity or garden ornament.

The tomato is utilized in a great variety of ways, both when the fruit is green and ripe, being eaten raw, baked, boiled or stewed, while it forms an invaluable ingredient in soups, stews and sauces. It is made into condiments, as catsup or tomato butter, and pickled and

preserved in various ways. The art of canning has also made it avail- able all the year, in nearly as good a state essentially as the fresh fruit in season. It is thought to produce dietetic effects, and is doubtless one of the most healthful vegetables grown, either raw or cooked in any manner. In purchasing tomatoes, select those of medium size, solid and smooth skinned, and with the least warts or blemishes about the stem end.

385. To serve fresh Tomatoes— Pour boiling water on to the tomatoes until they are covered; cover and let them stand until the skins begin to crack, when they may be easily peeled; put them on ice, and let them remain until perfectly cold; then slice and serve with dressing, or with powdered sugar, salt, pepper, and vinegar. Claret instead of vinegar is considered by many quite a fine dressing, but use no salt or pepper. Never serve tomatoes without peeling.

386. Baked Tomatoes — Take eight or ten tomatoes, peel and slice rather thick, and put into a deep baking-dish; season liberally with salt, pepper, and two ounces butter; cover over with bread crumbs, and then pour over a little butter clarified by heating, and bake in a moderate oven a third to half an hour. Serve hot.

387. Stewed Tomatoes — After scalding and peeling, cut them into a stewpan; season and let them simmer (not boil) for three- quarters of an hour. May be cooked with soft bread-crumbs or small squares of bread, using nearly as much bread or crumbs as tomato, adding it after they are nearly done.

388. Stuffed and Baked Tomatoes — From the blossom end of a dozen tomatoes — smooth, ripe and solid — cut a thin slice, and with a small spoon scoop out the pulp without breaking the rind surrounding it; chop a small head of cabbage and a good-sized onion finely, and mix with them fine bread-crumbs and the pulp; season with pepper, salt, and sugar, and add a cup sweet cream; when all is well mixed, fill the tomato shells, replace the slices, and place the tomatoes in a buttered baking-dish, cut ends up, and put in the pan just enough water to keep from burning; drop a small lump of butter on each tomato, and bake half an hour or so, till well done; place another bit of butter on each, and serve in same dish.

389. Turnips — Wash, peel, cut in thin slices across the grain, and place in a kettle with as little water as possible; boil until tender and you can easily pierce them with a fork; drain well, season with salt, pepper and butter; mash fine and place on the stove, frequently stirring until all water is dried out; do not boil too long, as they are sweeter when quickly cooked. They may be steamed, instead of boiled, and in fact are finer in that way. They may also be baked.

*^ 390. Dried Turnips — Pare, slice and cut them in dice an inch square, boil till nearly done in as little water as possible, and to one quart turnip add a tablespoon of sugar, and salt to taste; when boiled as dry as possible without burning, add two or three spoons of cream, a beaten eggt and serve. Slices of turnip or parsnip left from a boiled dinner are nice browned in a little butter the next day.

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