QUINCE MARMALADE

Poor quinces, unfit for other uses, can be washed and cut in small pieces, coring but not paring them. Allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar and a teacup of water to a pound of fruit, and boil slowly two hours, stirring and mashing it fine. Strain through a colander, and put in glasses or bowls. Peaches, crab apples or sour apples may be used in the same way.

Salads are the most delicious of all vegetable dishes, and are good appetizers, especially in warm weather. The vegetables used for salads are : Lettuce, cabbage, boiled asparagus, boiled cauliflowers, celery, water-cress, onions, etc. Prepare these carefully by washing in ice-cold water, cleaning thoroughly from all dirt or foreign substances, drying carefully in a towel, avoiding as much as possible crushing or breaking the leaves, as it causes them to wilt, and then shredding with the fingers instead of using a knife. Always avoid using a knife on any kind of salad, as it blackens and destroys the crispness and freshness of the vegetable. Lettuce is often served with the leaves entire, except the leaves are broken from the center stalk, and the stalk reserved for garnishing; serve the lettuce on ice without dressing, and let it be pre- pared by ihe one served, or if dressing is preferred, use one-third as much oil as vinegar ; pepper and salt at discretion, mustard if liked ; pile in a salad bowl ; sprinkle with powdered sugar, and pour the rest of the ingredients mixed together over the salad. Toss up with a silver fork to mix all well.

If eggs are used, boil them hard and powder them, by mashing with the back of a silver spoon ; add the seasoning, then the oil, a few drops at a time, and lastly and gradually the vmegar. A celebrated caterer says the dressing of a salad should be saturated with oil, and seasoned with pepper and salt, before the vinegar is added ; it results from this process that there can never be too much vinegar, for, from the specific gravity of the vinegar compared with the oil, what is more than useful will fall to the bottom of the bowl ; the salt should not be dissolved in the vinegar, but in the oil, by which means it is more equally distrib- uted throughout the salad. Always use the freshest olive salad oil ; cream or melted butter is a good substitute if the salad oil cannot be procured, or even pure meat drippings, but if these are used, they should be added the last of all.

602 SALADS.

For chicken or potato salads, prepare the dressing, pour it over the dish prepared, garnish the top with slices of cold boiled e.gg or lemon, and finish the edge of dish with sprigs of celery, and set away until needed. Salads should not be prepared more than two hours before eating, and should be left in the ice-box until the meal is ready to serve. Lettuce, cabbage, celery and all vegetables used for salads, should be left in ice water for several hours before using. Vegetable salads should be stirred as little as possible in order that their freshness may be preserved until ready to serve.

To fringe celery stalks for chicken, meat, or salad garnishes, cut the stalks into two-inch lengths ; stick plenty of coarse needles into a cork; draw half of the stalk of celery through the needles ; when done lay in a cold place to curl. Stir salads with a wooden fork or spoon.