SHELL-FISH

To thoroughly enjoy and appreciate shell-fish one must live on the coast : and yet transportation has been so far perfected that they are found quite fresh in almost every place. Of course the canned goods are alwavs obtainable. The oyster is more used than any of the others and there is not a lover of them who does not heartily sympathize with the boy who wanted to spell August "0-r-g-u-s-t," in order to bring it into the list of the months which contain an "r" in all of which oysters are in season. The delicious bivalves furnish an important, and, in most localities, a not expensive article of food ; and the ease with which they are prepared for table, and great variety of ways in which they may be cooked and served, make them a great favorite with housekeepers. To judge whether clams and oysters are fresh insert a knife, and if the shell instantly closes firmly on the knife they are fresh. If it shuts slowly and faintly or not at all they are dying or dead ; or another test is that when fresh, the shell is firmly closed ; if open the oyster is dead and unfit for use. Oysters in the shell may be kept in a cool cellar, and occasionally sprinkled with salt water. The small-shelled variety have the finest flavor. For the freshness of canned oysters it is necessary to trust the dealer, but never buy cans the sides of v/hich are swollen. In preparing them for cooking or for table, carefully remove all hits of shell. When cooking, some do not skim at all, others only slightly, claim- ing that a great deal of the rich flavor is lost by so doing ; and with good fresh oysters, and none other should be used, it is not neces- sary. Never salt oysters for soups or stews till just before remo

798 SHELL-FISH.

ter at same time as too much cooking makes butter oily. Roasting in shell best preserves natural flavor. Alvmys serve immediately after cooking^ no matter what method is used and do not cook long, never boiling more than a minute or two. This is also true of lobsters, etc., as long cooking toughens the meat. In handling oysters the wire oyster fork is nice as the short tines hold the oyster ^^^ at the end of the fork, instead of allowing

V^^ ■"'""III"""' "■'^^ the tines to slip through and project be-

wirc oytser Fork. youd thc oystcr. As to uutritlvc qualities

oysters rank much below meats, and it is even questioned whether they contain the phosphorus, or brain-food, which has been credited to them in company with the finny tribe in general. But, when properly cooked, they are easy of digestion, and very proj^er food for persons whose occupation is sedentary'-, and whose duties do not call fur heavy muscular exertion. Even for invalids, they are nu- tritious and wholesome, when delicately prepared. For varieties, etc., of shell-fish see Marketing and to dress lobsters, terrapins, etc., for the different dishes given, see Cutting and Curing Meats. To open oysters, wash the shells and put on hot coals or upon top of a hot stove, or bake in a hot oven ; or open on end with oyster knife or sharp iron, resting round part of oyster shell in left hand, using the knife with right, or open cans with can can opLucr.

opener. From the middle of January to middle of March oysters are really in best condition and are also less expensive.

Fried Clams. — Remove from shell large soft-shell clams ; have the clams dried in a towel, single-bread thorn or dip in batter and fry (longer than oysters) in sweet lard (ir butter. Some prepare for cooking by cutting off the black head, splitting the long, tough neck and scraping.

Clam C/iowder. — Chop fifty clams, peel and slice ten raw pota- toes, cut into dice six onions and a half pound fat salt pork, slice six tomatoes (if canned use a coffeecuji full), and have ready a pound pilot crackers ; first fry pork in bottom of pot and partially cook onions in the pork fat. remove, and ]>ut plate in pot bottom side up ; then put ingredients in layers, with ])ork at bottom, then onions, po- tatoes, tomatoes, clams and crackers, season with pepper and salt,

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pour over this the liquor from clams and repeat the process, adding chopped parsley to taste. Cover with Avater and boil from half to three quarters of an hour. Some prefer to put the clams in whole, and the potatoes are often parboiled or cold cooked ones may be used. The tomatoes may be omitted and bread-crumbs used in- stead of crackers. Half oysters and half clams may be used, add- ing the liquor from both, or a third each fish, oysters and clams. Chowder can be made of either hard or soft-shell clams.

Clam Pie. — Take three pints either hard or soft-shell clams (if large, chop slightly), put in saucepan and bring to boil in their liquor, adding a little water if needed ; have ready four medium- sized potatoes, boiled till done and cut in small squares; make a nice pie paste with which line medium-sized pudding dish half way down sides ; turn small cup bottom uj) in middle of dish to keep up top crust ; put in first a la3^er of clams, then a few potatoes and season with bits of butter, a little salt and pepper, and dredge with flour ; add another layer of clams, and so on till dish is filled, add- ing juice of clams, and a little water if necessary (there should be about as much liquid as for chicken-pie). Cover with top crust, cut slits for steam to escape, and bake three-quarters of an hour.

Clam Stew. — Take half peck hard-shell clams, wash shells clean, and put in kettle with about a cup water ; steam until shells open, Avhen take out of shell, strain juice, and return it with clams to fire ; after they come to a boil, add pint milk or water, piece of butter size of egg, three crackers rolled fine, pepper, and salt if any is needed. Boil up once and serve hot. Nice poured over toast. Some use only the soft part of clams and first make a white sauce by mixing tablespoon each butter and flour over the fire, adding gradually pint hot milk or milk and water, and season with salt and pepper ; then put in soft parts of clams, and simmer gently for fifteen minutes Avhere they will not burn. For Boiled Cla7ns^ select thin-edged ones. Wash carefully and put in pot over hot fire, M'ith A^ery little water, so as to save their juices ; when they open, leave juice in pot, remove clams from shells and put clams back in; add butter, pepper, and very little salt, and boil ten minutes. Serve hot.

Fried Crahs. — Procure soft-shell crabs, alive if possible, as shells harden within twenty-four hours after being killed. To pre- pare for cooking, lay the crab on its back, lift up the apron or flap near the back of the shell, take out all spongy and fibrous portions, and by lifting the shell at both sides remove same substance from the back, cut a semi-circle from the head, including the eyes and sand-bags. "Wash in cold salted water, dry on clean towel, season inside and out with salt and pepper and fry light brown in fresh butter or lard. Or double-bread them and fry by immersion. Some bread them by dipping into milk for first wetting. Serve garnished with crisped parsley or sliced lemon. Mnyonnaise Sauce is nice