THE ARTS OF THE TOILET

nervous system is necessary to beauty. Late suppers, over-eating at meals, eating between meals, the use of candies, sweetmeats, preserves, etc., pro- duce pimples and blotches.

The Hands. — The iise of gloves, especially kids, help to preserve the soft- ness of the hands. Cleanhness and sprinkling with orris-root counteracts excessive perspiration. Warts are removed by steeping the hands in warra water for half an hour, and then paring away the white and insensible sur- face. The nails should l)e cut frequentlj'. always in oval shape. The nail- brush should be full and soft. It should be rubbed on a cake of soap and then used vigorously. Biting nails is a bad habit. To break it up, in chil- dren, dip the ends of the fingers in a solution of aloes.

The None. — Excessive wiping, snulRng, and blowing, especially in chil- dren, deforms the nose, and should be practiced only when necessary for cleanliness. A nose leaning on one side, caused by wiping in one direction, may be cured by using the handkerchief with the other hand, or by wear- ing occasionally an instrument surgeons employ for that purpose. Large, fleshy noses are reduced by wearing at night a contrivance which compresses tlie artery that supplies the nose. Red noses become so by exposure to heat or the sun, by alcoholic drinks, or by debility of the b ood-vessels of the skin. The latter cause is removed by gentle friction and cold bathing of the feet.

To Clean Jewelry, Silver, Etc. — To one pint of stale beer, add one-third f)int strong ammonia, let stand for ten days, keep well corked. Put a little of above in a saucer, in another dish some cream of tartar, say one-half teaspoon, then take stiff brush, dip in solution, then in cream of tartar, and apply to the article to be cleaned. Striking with the brush is better than brushing, as thereby you can get into the corners and crevices. Wash the articles with soap and warm water after cleaning, and dry in saw dust. For Koman gold and frosted jewelry, also silver ware, it is especially recommen- ded, and will make the article look like new goods. Keep cream of tartar in box or bottle well corked.

The Bath — Not only promotes cleanliness, but is a tonic. The skin does one-third of the work of breathing, and if the myriad of pores are closed, the lungs are overburdened, or else the -work is left undone. The tonic effect is caused by the contraction of the surface blood vessels, driving the blood back to the larger blood-vessels and the heart, bringing on a reaction which rushes the blood back to the skin, causing a glow, freer respiration and more vigorous action of the whole muscular system. A sponge or hand bath are the simplest forms, and should be taken in a moderately warm room. As a rule, the more rapidly a bath is taken the better, and it should always be followed by friction with the hand or with a not too rough towel.

The Ear. — The outer ear should be well cleaned and the passage wiped out daily with a rag on the end of the little finger, but nothing should be inserted further. The insertion of a pin, or any hard substance, frequently ruptures the ear. AVhen cleansing is necessary on account of accumulation of wax by cold, or other cause, it should be done by syringing with warm water, having dropped in tw^o or three drops of glycerine the night before to soften the substance to be removed. This often cures sudden deafness. Cotton-wool stuffed into the ear is injurious and is seldom necessary. In conversing with deaf persons it is important to remember that clearness, dis- tinctness, and a musical tone of voice is understood much more easily than a loud tone.

Sponge Baskets. — A sponge, when damp, is a nuisance. If hung up it moistens the wall, and if laid down it gets in every body's way and gathers dirt. The simple, neat and cheap wire basket which hangs on the wall is a

1192 THE ARTS OF THE TOILBT.

good receptacle for it, or a three-cornered piece of oil-cloth, sustained by a string fastened to each corner, is a good makeshift for the same purpose.

CoUarx that do not Fit —Few gentlemen have philosophy enough to en<lure an ill-fitting collar with patience, but not many understand why they do not fit. The fact is, the laundress stretches them the wrong way. Damp linen is verv pliable, and a good pull will alter a fourteen-inch into a fifteen- inch collar in the twinkling of an eye. She ought to stretch them crosswise, and not lengthwise. Then in straightening out shirt-bosoms, she makes another mistake of the same sort. They also ought to be pulled crosswise instead of lengthwise, particularly in the neighborhood of the neck. A lengthwise pull draws the front of the neckband somewhat directly under your chin, where it was never meant to go ; and, of course, that spoils the fit of your collar. With the front of the neckband an inch too high, and the collar an inch too long, you have a most undesirable combination.

Cutting Teeth.— The time the first teeth make their appearance varies but the following dates approximate the time : Central incisors from five to eight months after birth ; lateral incisors from seven to ten ; first molars from twelve to sixteen ; cuspids, or eye-teeth, from fourteen to twenty ; second molars from twenty to thirty-six.' The first teeth should be protected from decay as far as possible by careful cleaning daily ; if decay makes its appear- ance", the cavitv should be" promptly filled, and the tooth saved until displaced by the permanent teeth. About the sixth year, the first molars of the per- iiianent teeth make their appearance. They are generally supposed to belong to the first or milk-teeth, and are frequently lost for want of care. A little more attention given to the first teeth would save parents and children sleep- less nights and suffering.

The Eyes—Damj>, foggy weather, the reflection of the bright sunshine intense cold, dustv wind, reading on cars in motion, reading by gas or lamp- light when the light falls directly on the eyes, sitting before a glowing fire, wearing of glasses when not needed, wearing veils, and all indulgences that weaken the nervous system, injures the eyes. The most pleasing light for work is from a northern exposure. A shade that protects the eyes from the light that falls on paper,book or work is an advantage. The light should not (.•onie from different points, but that from behind the worker is best. A very weak or very bright light should be equally avoided. Diseases of the eye are often the result of general weakness, and in such cases local treatment has little effect. In fitting glasses to the eye great care should be taken to adjust the lens to the eye with accuracy. Crown glass is preferable to fiint on account of its superior hardness, its'entire want of color, and its non-de- composition of light. Scotch pebbles are unobjectionable except as to cost.

Dress.— The first object of dress is protection of the body, second to en- hance and bring out its beauty. Dress which does not enhance the beauty of the wearer, or which attracts attention from the wearer to itself, is out of taste. To be in correct taste it must be "becoming," and in this sense dress- ins; is an art worthy of the attention and study of the most intellectual and acromplished woman. The beauty of dress, to a cultivated eye, does not lie in its money value, but in its perfection in detail and nerfect adaptation to the wearer and the occasion for which it is intended. Any simpleton in pet- ticoats, who has plenty of money, can order her clothes from Worth, in the latest Paris styles, but some quiet woman, with brains and taste, in simpler costume, will be sure to outshine her in "society." Low-necked dresses, draszging skirts, corsets and stays, paddings, heavy skirts which rest on tlu' hii)s,"hoavy veils, high-heeled boots and every other unphysiological abomination in dress, mars beauty and destroya health.

THE ARTS OP THE TOILET. 1193

Brush and Comh-Rack. — A very neat white wire rack, for holding the hair-brush and comb, which usually lie in the way in the vicinity of the mirror, may now be had for a few cents, and is a great convenience for the toilet.

Cheap Toilet Table. — When a wash stand can not be afFored. procure a large three-cor- nered piece of board, large enough to comfortably accommodate a wash bowl, pitcher, etc., and fasten it in a corner of the room where the light is good. Cover it suitably with colored cambric, tack on the edge a slightly full fiounoo of the same, long enough to reach the floor. Over this placeplaiu book mus- lin with box pleatings across the edge and along the bottom. The frame of the mirror over it may also be draped wifh book muslin. Neat paper boxes covered with fancy paper or zephyr work may be added for holding brushes, combs, etc. A neat drawer may easily be fitted under the board, and will be found convenient for many purposes.

Freckles. — Grate horse-radish fine ; let it stand a few hours in buttermilk, then strain and use the wash night and morning. Or, squeeze the juice of a lemon into half a goblet of water and use the same way. Most of the reme- dies for freckles are poisonous, and can not be used with safety. Freckles indicate a defective digestion, and consists in deposits of some carbonaceous, or fatty matter beneath the skin. The diet should be of such a nature that bowels and kidneys, will do their duty. Daily bathing, with much friction, should not be neglected, and the Turkish bath taken occasionally, if con- venient. The juice of a lemon, in which there is as much sugar dissolved as the juice will hold in solution, is an excellent remedy for freckles. This should be applied with a camel's-hair brush several times daily, until they disappear. It must be understood that all acids are astringents in their nature, and their too frequent use is as injurious as many apparently more delt- t£rious cosmetics; for, by too frequent and violent contraction of the pores, they become overworked, and finally refuse to respond to the action of any application ; wrinkles result, and are generally ineradicable, except after a tedious dietetic and medical course of treatment.

Teeth. — Cracking nuts, biting thread, eating hot food, especially bi-ead and pastry raised with soda, very cold drinks, alternate contact with cold and hot substances, highly seasoned food, alcoholic liquors and tobacco, metal tooth picks, and want of cleanliness, are injurious to teeth. After eating, the mouth should be rinsed with lukewarm water, and such pieces of food as are not thus washed away removed by a quill toothpick. Toothbrushes should be elastic and not too hard. Those with hairs not too close together are best and most durable. A brush that is too hard may be per- manently softened by dipping in hot water. Rub up and down as well as across the teeth. Teeth should be ofted examined by a competent dentist. A great many, while attentive to their teeth, do more injury than good by too much otficiousness, daily applying some dentrifrice, or tooth-powder, often impure and injurious, and rubbing them so hard as not only to injure the en- amel by excessive friction, but also to hurt the gums even more than by a tooth' ic. Tooth-powders advertised in newspapers are to-be suspected,'as same of them are not free from corrosive ingredients. Charcoal (which whitens the teeth very nicely), pumice-stone, cuttle-fish, and similar sub- stances, are unfit for use in tooth-powders, as all are to a certain extent in- soluble in the mouth, and are forced between the margin of the gums, form- ing a nucleus for a deposit. Below will be found a few good formulas for dentifrices : Three and one half pounds of creta preparata, one pound each

1194 THE ARTS OF THE TOILET.

of powdered borax, powdered orris-foot and white sugar, and two ounces cardamon seeds ; flavor with wintergreen, rose or jasmine. If color is desired, use one pound of rose-pink and as much less of crcta preparata. Tooth-pow- ers should be thoroughly triturated in a wedge-wood mortar and finely bolted. The following is a simple and cheap preparation, and pretty good. Take of prepared chalk and fine old Windsor soap pulverized well in proportion of about six parts of the former to one of the latter. Soap is a very beneficial ingredient of tooth-powder.

The Hair. — Professor Erasmus "Wilson, of London, who is authority' on the subject, condemns the washing of hair ; but advises that it should be kept clean by brusliing, this being a more effective stimulant than water. In cases of ordinary fallin'g out of the hair, he prescribed the following: Liquid am- monia, almond oil, and chloroform, of each one jiart, diluted with five parts of alcohol or spirits of rosemary, which can be made fragrant by the addi- tion of a drachm of the essential c J of lemons. The head should undergo a thorough friction with the hairbrush, after which the lotion may be applied. It may be diluted, if necessary, and can be applied daily or otherwise.

For removing scurf, he advises a lotion of borax and glycerino, two drachms of each to eight ounces of distilled water. This is cooling, and allays dryness of the skin.

In cases of baldne-s, a lotion of the following can be used with effect : Camphor, ammonia, chloroform and aconite, in equal parts, to be rubbed on the bare place daily, or twice a day.

A barber recommends ladies to have their hair shampooed once a month. This will bring out the natural luster, soften it, clear it of dust, and rob it of that musty smell which comes of having long hair wound up closely for any length of time. It will also remove that itching of the head which some ladies find so troublesome.

For Complexion. — Blanch one-fourth pound best Jordan almonds, slip off the skin, mash in a mortar, and rub together with best white soap, for fifteen minutes, adding gradually one quart rose-water or clean, fresh rain-water, mav be used. When the mixture looks like milk, strain through fine muslin. Apply, after wasliing, with a soft rag. To whiten the skin, and remove freckles and tan, bathe three times a day in a preparation of three quarts water, one quart alcohol, two ounces cologne, and one of borax, in propor- tion of two tea-spoons mixture to two table-spoons soft water. Bathing the face in pure buttermilk, clear whey, sour milk, new or sweet milk, is soothing and healing after walking, riding' driving, rowing or sailing. Do not plunge the face into cold water, neither dash the water over the face when suffering from sunburn or exposure to wind or water ; the sudden shock is not only injurious to the whole system, but has been known to permanently deface the citmplexion by a species of tanning which left a brown or yellow tinge impos- sible to efface. Or use Qwen Bess Complrxion Wash. Put in a vial one drachm of benzoin gum in powder, one drachm nutmeg-oil, six drops of orange- blossom tea, or ap]>le-blossoms put inh ilf pint rain-water, and boiled down to one tea-spoonful and strained, one pint of sherry wine. Bathe the face morning and night ; will remove all fle.sh-worms and freckles, and give a beautiful complexion. Or, put one ounce of powdered gum of benzoin in pint of whiskey ; to use, put some in water \\\ wash-bowl till latter is milky, wash with it ; allowing it to dry without wiping. This is perfectly harmless.

The Hair. — Combs of tortoise-shell, bone or rubber, with not very sharp leuth should be used Sharp teeth injure the scalp and produce dandrufif. Two brushes, one hard, to clean the hair and scalp, and the other soft, to smooth and polish, are best. Clean brushes by rubbing them with bran, or wash with one part ammonia and two of water. Combing or brushing

THE ARTS OP THE TOILET. 1195

should be done in the natural direction of the hair, and never against it. In tiie proper way it can not be brusiied too much. To keep the scalp clean wash ill tepid "water with a little pure soap in it, rinse in pure water, dry with towels, and then in the sun or by the fire. Oily hair maybe washed once a week, light hair less often, Some occupations require that it should bewashed much oftener. All preparations for the hair are more or less injurious. Healthy hair has enough oil of its own, and the application of foreign oil destroys its vitality. Preparations containing alcohol fade hair, and make it brittle. The only "time oil is admissable is after washing. The best prepar- ation is one partof glycerine to three of rose-water. Powders made of starch, when used, must be washed out of the hair to prevent injury. Those made of colored glass are very injurious, cutting and otherwise damaging the hair. At night, the hair should be loosened and left free. Night-caps are a relic of barbarism. Hair-dyes are very injurious, as they contain more orlesssugar of lead, nitrate of silver, and other ingredients, which atiect the brain, pro- duce paralysis, inflammation of the eyes, and impairment of sight. Gray hairs are an indication that the hair-producing organs are weakening. When found they should be cut down to the healthy part, and the head should be exposed as much as possible, except in the middle of the day, to the sun and air. When hair falls out, it indicates a disease of the scalp. To cure, dip the head twice a day in cold water and rub with a brush until a glow is pro- duced. In case the hair is too long to wet, brush until a glow is produced, and then rub into the roots a wash ma

The Feet. — The largest pores in the body are located in the bottom of the feet. For this reason the feet should be frequently and thoroughly washed, and the stockings changed often. If great cleanliness is not observed, these great pores become absorbent, and the poisons given off are taken back into the system. The nails ought to be cut squarely. Blisters may be prevented by rubbing the feet after washing, with glycerine. Bunions are caused by wearing shoes too tight or too short. They are difficult to get rid of, but may be alleviated by wearing easy-fitting shoes, poulticing and putting a rubber ring around the spot. Corns, which are caused by continued pressure on the foot, may be prevented by wearing woolen stockings aiid shoes that fit well. They are known as hard and soft, but their difference is entirely owing to locality. If a corn is situated between the toes, where it is kept moist by perspiration, it is of the soft variety ; but, if located on the outside of the toe, where it could get no moisture, it would necessarily be hard. They are pro- duced by pressure or friction, and are simply a protective growth thrown out for the purpose of preventing the tissues being injured. They are sufficiently painful at ail times, but they are the most unbearable when an accumulation of pus takes place beneath them. The escape of this drop of ])us is prevented by the hardened and thickened outside, which must Ije poulticed or soaked in warm water, and then removed by a sharp pointed knife, The entire corn can be taken out with a little care and patient work, without drawing a drop Of blood. The application of caustics should be avoided in the treatment of corns, especially in old people, as fata

1106 THE ARTS OF THE TOILET.

Perfumeri/. — The following receipts are of choice perfumes, and are made by compounding the articles in each receipt, and then adding as much dis- tilled water as can be mixed, and 7iot have it become yyiilhy, Mhich will vary from two to eight ounces, according to the perfume ; then add deodoriaed alcohol until there are two quarts of perfumery :

Essence Bouquet. — Four ounces extract musk, two of extract tube rose, one drachm otto rose virgin, and one-fourth drachm otto bergamot, one- half drachm each otto neroli super and red cedar wood, eight minims otto verbena (true), ten of bimento, three of patchouly, twelve of English laven- der; add water and alcohol as above.

Jockoj Club. — Five ounces extract jasmine, twenty of extract orris, seven of extract musk, one and one-half extract vanlla, one and one-half drachms each of otto rose virgin and santal flor, two and one-half otto bergamot, and two of benzoic acid, forty minims otto neroli super ; water and alcohol as above.

Patchouly. — Two drachms each otto pachouly and styrax, eight ounces each extract musk and orris, four of vanilla, and forty minims each santal ■flor and rose virgin ; water and alcohol as above.

Wood Violet. — Twelve ounces extract orris, two of tube rose, and of jas- mine, four of musk, two drachms otto of bergamot, one of English lavender, ten minims verbena (true), twelve minims amygdala amar (any druggist will have it), six minims coriander, and four minims sweet flag, and one and a half drachm benzoic acid ; water and alcohol as above.

West End. — Twelve ounces of extract orris, four extract of jasmine, eight of extract musk, four of extract cassia, one of extract styrax, three drachms otto bergamot, one and one-half neroli super, and one each of otto rose vir- gin, red-cedar wood (true) and benzoic acid ; water and alcohol as above.

Tube Pose. — Twenty-four ounces extract tube rose, four of musk, one of jasmine, one drachm otto rose virgin, two of benzoic acid, and ten minims t)t otto neroli super; water and alcohol as above.

Stephenotis.— Four ounces each extract cassia and tube rose, eight each of musk and orris, two of jasmine, three of tonka, one drachm each otto rose virgin and benzoic acid, one-half drachm otto neroli super; water and alco- hol same as above.

Rondeletia. — One ounce otto English lavender, two each of musk and vanilla, four of orris, half ounce each otto cloves and bergamot, two drachms otto rose geranium (Turkey), one of benzoic acid, twenty minims true otto cinnamon, ten minims otto rose virgin, one of santal flor) water and alcohol as above.

New-Mown Hay. — Twenty-five ounces extract tonka, six of musk, eight of orris, one of vanilla, one drachm each extract styrax, bergamot and $antal flor, and one and a half of benzoic acid, fifteen minims otto neroli super, ten each of otto rose virgin, lavender (English) and patchouly, and six minims otto of cloves.

Simple — Garden perfumes are charming in linen when put away in drawers. For the handkerchief the perfume, is more delicate, and niuch more desirable than the stronger odors so freely used. Always preserve the trimmings of rose-geraniums, in envelopes, for such purposes, and lay in plenty of sweet clover when in blossom.

THE FLOWER GARDEN. 1197

THE FLO^WER- GhARDElST.

By E. Rennie McGill.

The culture of flowers is the most interesting occupation in the •world — a never-ending source of delight. Where else can we find for the body and mind a recreation so beautiful, so instructive, or that will afford more last- ing pleasure, than that of tending for the floral emblems of God's love? What would the world be without flowers? Thanks to the all- wise Creator we find them everywhere. On mountain top, in shady dell, midst towering rocks and along the banks of rippling brooks. They are as free as the air we breathe, and who shall say they do not teach of our Father's love, wis- dom and wondrous power ? Whose head but His could put this exquisite coloring into the Jacqueminot Rose, or design the curious petals of the Pas- sion flower? Beautiful objects as these are to the naked eye, how much more so do they become even under the simplest form of a microscope. We may take the keenest razor that can be obtained, place it under a microscope, and the edge will appear jagged, coarse and rough, and full of imperfections. Not so with Nature's handiwork, for the more critically it is examined, the more its hidden perfections surprise us, and we are forced to exclaim: "0 Lord ! how manifold are thy works ; in wisdom hast thou made them all.

The culture of flowers teaches industry, patience and hope. No one ex- pects flowers to grow on hard, uncultivated ground ; hence we must spade it or plow it, then industriously weed it, or else our plants would soon be choked up. We sow the seeds in hope that they will spring and reward our care by producing beautiful flowers, and we must cultivate the virtue of patience be- cause some plants are great sluggards, while the tendency of men and things in this age is to be in a hurry. The industry with which this recreation haa been pursued, shows itself plainly in the great number of the highly im- proved plants which adorn the gardens of the present day in contrast to those

1198 THr: flower garden'.

which were cultivated some fifty years ago. Take, for instance, the Pansy, a flower that is universally known and loved the world over. It is only a little more than half a century ago that the improvements began in this little tiower. A few years ago there were but few books or magazines jjublished devoted to flowers ; now there is hardly a periodical but that lias at least one or inure columns relating to the subject, while floricultural books, magazines and catalogues are scattered broadcast all over the land. Many of these are higlily embellished with beautiful engravings and colored plates which create a desire for possession of plants thus pictured. In this way the florist's business has assumed enormous proportions so that it is quite common to meet with a greenhouse in a town of very few hundred inhaliitants. It is a wholesome occupation. Ladies who fancied themselves so compU'tf ly broken down in health that they have wished for death, in several instances which have come under my observation have been induced to take a little exercise daily among the flowers. The desire to do something t<jok posses- sion of the patient, the efi'ortof setting out aplant here, pulling a weed there, scratching the surface of the soil with a light rake became a pleasure, and while they were doing this they were slowly and surely returning to health. The slight action necessary to labor with the few tools needed for ladies' gardening oi^eration is just sufficient to set the blood into proper activity, and in every instance that I recommended it, I have been told that it worked wonders. A few years ago it was considered unwholesome to have plants in the house, but it has been proved by the most positive demonst

Make your home beautiful— bring to it flowers,

Plant them around you to bud and to bloom;

Lot them give light to your loneliest hours- Let them give light to enliven your gloom.

If you can do so, O make it an Eden

Of beauty and gladness almost divine; 'Twill teach you to long for that home you are needing.

The earth robed in beauty beyond this dark climo,"'

THE FLOWER GARDEN. 1190