INTELLIGENT SHOPPIXO

There are a few things that every shopper ought to know. She should, for one thing, know exactly how much money it is proper or expedient to si)end for a certain article. Of course she is not obliged to expend the entire sum, if she has the good fortune to find what sha wants at a lower price, but the limit V)eiii,<i fixed, she should have resolution enough not to be tempted to exceed it. In all probability the sum has been determined with refer- ence to other needs, and if one purchase is allowed to overstep the margin,

DKESS MAKI.XG AT HOME. ' 1219

there will be inconvenient curtailing in other directions. With the stern fact of a slender purse to be kept in mind, it is weak in the shopper to spend her own time and the salesman's, looking at expensive goods which are be- yond her reach. The sight of such fabrics, contrasting with the more hum- ble ones which must of necessity be her choice, will be apt to produce dis- satisfaction.

Quite important it is also, for the economical shopper to be aware of the quantity of material she will need. Rapid calculations made at the time of purchasing are very unreliable, and an appeal to tlie salesman will do little good, because the desire to make a sale will often prompt that person to suggest a smaller quantity than is needful. On the paper patterns sold by dealers the quantity of goods required is usually set down, but an economi- cal cutter can often make the garment from a smaller number of j'ards than that given. A liberal quantity is mentioned, to allow for inexperience and more or less wastefulness upon the cutter's part. It would be wise, after se- lecting a pattern, to measure it, and decide by turning the pieces about till every advantage gained by dovetailing them in and out may be taken note of. There are many ladies who manage to reduce the amount of cloth usually required for a dress, so greatly, that the saving thus made is quite a consid- eration. In expensive goods the saving of a yard or two will go a long way toward the purchase of another dress.

Very excellent managers have been known to cut all the required parts of a polonaise, jacket, or whatever form the pattern is in, from paper, (in cases where the pattern does not give duplicate sections,) to better enable them to make the closest calculation as to the amount required. Such pains- taking is sometimes laughed at and termed fussiness, but, depemi ujjon it, any method which enables a woman in narrow circumstances to save a dol- lar, even, should be above derision. To show that the sum thus saved may be of some magnitude, the case of two ladies in New York may be named, who bought silk dresses from the same piece. The silk was four dollars a yard, and the dresses were to be made in the same style. One lady referred to her dressmaker for the amount of yards necessary, and the other'made her own calculation in the manner just spoken of, and bought two yards less, Her dress appeared after being made, t« be as ample as her friend's and she had the reward of her deliberate forethought in the saving of eight dollars. Probably the other dress was honestly made, for the quantity supplied was far from exorbitant, but less careful cutting made the difference.

How much, or rather, how little, material will it be safe to purchase for making into a silk dress, is a question often asked l)y ladies who are obliged to count the cost of every thing very narrowly. It is a question that could be answered more accurately regarding a single individual that in the ab- stract, but it is safe to say, that with careful cutting, a polonaise and simply trimmed skirt can be made from thirteen or fourteen yards of silk, according to the height of the lady. The upper part of the skirt can be of black lawn, or, instead of continuing the silk to the bottom of the skirt, it may be pieced down with lining, begining where the ruffle is put on. Even if more material is purchased, it is more prudent to piece out the skirt with other goods, and Save some of the silk to use when the time for making over comes.

For ladies who live out of town, the present facilities for selecting from samples sent by mail simplify shopping greatly. Almost all merchants in large cities are very obliging about sending samples, and, even if the ex- press charges on the goods ordered adds something to the cost it is a trifle compared to the expense of visiting the city. With the samples before one at home, one can make a cooler choice and use better judgment than when in a store, and country buyers have on this score, a great advantage over town shoppers.

1220 * DRESS MAKING AT HOME.

Among the many points to be considered in the selection of a winter dress, is its possibih'ty for turning upside down and wrongside out, wh<.n its future destiny mav demand such transformation. It is also desirable to have goods that can be dyed, and, on that ac.count, mixtures of silk and wool should be avoided. There are also other objections to this class of goods. They are liable to cliange color when exposed to dampness, and wiil some- times shrink and "cockle up" in a way that makes them unsightly, and often useless. All-wool material, such as serge, cashmere, Hannels and debeges, and all the goods of similar nature sold under various names, are far more satisfactory, and are often cheaper, even at the first cost than the fancy mix- tures.

For those ladies who are obliged to follow some out-of-door avocation, such as carrying a subscription book, selling some article from house to house, or any pursuit which requires them to brave all weathers, the most serviceable winter dress will be one of camlet, linsey or frieze-cloth. Either of these will be satisfactory, if a grade is selected which is woven of pure worsted, with no mixture of "cotton or any other faliric. If tl>e ma- terial is bought at a reliable place, the dealer will be willing to point out the difference between the mixed and unmixed worsted material, but (the for- mer not always being easy to find) irresponsible persons will sometimes at- tenii)t to palm off the latter upon the inexperienced. A jacket or sacque like the dress can be wadded and lined, and, if neatly made after a stylish i>at- tern, wiU complete a walking costume that any lady might be- willing to wear. Such a suit in dark gray, or "pei)per and salt," made with emigrant skirt bordered with three or'tive rows of black braid, and easy fitting coat of the same, similarly trimmed, will be more stylish, and command more re- si)ect for the wearer than a half-worn silk or cashmere whose trimmings show stains of travel and dust, whose draperies have the dejected look com- mon to loui,' worn ornamentation. It is not to be supposed that the econom- ist must never take advantage of a special bargain ; but she must be wary, lest she is dazzled by cheapness ami temi)tod into buying something that she could have gone without, and saved the money for a better use.

The habit of making a list, every season, of the things obsolutely needed, with their probable cost, will assisl.an economical shopper very much in making her purchases, and dispose her to shun showy so-called bargains, unless1;he sees one that will supply some item set down in her list, or can be profitably substituted for something therein. Even then she should use verv deliberate judgment, and carefully refrain from buying in haste to re- gret at leisure. . . .,,,,...„..

I^Ierchants in cities are, atcertam times, in the habit ot ottering, as bar- wain's the fraL'ments of the last season's stock to clear them out before new goods' are exlfibited. These bargains are sold (very often) for anything that fhevwill bring. Experienced economists find their golden opportunity, and rarely fail to take advantage of its coming. Remnants of summer goods are to be found often at a quarter of the price asked for them on their first ap- pearance, and, with a little taste and a clever knack at securing an imitation of some of the many fashions of the day, it is an easy tiling to efiect an in- <.'enious arrangement of a few yards of new goods upon an old dress that will rielude the public into the belief that the whole costume is as new as it is elcant. Tlie point having been thoroughly settled, that close following of ijas'siu" styles is incompatible with systematic economy, the woman of small imans^iill not hesitate to make her dollar do double duty l)y sju-nding it for Koine of these kept-over goods without troubling herself with anxious doubts •md fears lest they should not be in the latest of the ruling modes. Her choice anions them, if her taste and judgment are good, will be those that are quiet an<rinc(jnspicuous in color and iiattern. Such dresses be the fash- ion what it mav, are always ladylike and in good style. There are some

X>ltES8 MAriK# AT HOMX. 1221

standard goods that are never obsolete ; but because each season brings its own trivial variation in the shade of color, and thickness of a twill, or some such unimportant feature, the infinitesimal change depreciates, in the eyes of large dealers, the materials of last year. Narrow stripes, fine checks and small dots, are all unremarkable, and, not coming within the range of arbi- trary fashions, are never out of date, and no one need ever be ashamed of wearing them. Prints, calicoes, ginghams, and all the great varieties of the

Erevious year's supply of cotton goods, are generally to be found among the argains shown at such times ; and there is no better opportunity for laying in a stock for children's summer dresses, or for their mothers and older" sis- ters. Always make up cotton dresses without lining. They can be washed and ironed easily, and look almost as well as new after each time of laun- drying. With a waist lining there is apt to be a shrinkage and drawing out of place in either the lining or the outside that hinders the iron from doing its work nicely. For those who have to do actual hard work, such as wash- ing, scrubbing, etc., it may be well, now that the material is so much thin- ner than of old to make dark calico working dresses with waist linings of unbleached muslin to help to resist the strain prodnced by constant motion of the arms ; but for ordinary housework a loosely-fitting unlined waist with simply a stay or facing under the arms, is quite strong enough. It would also be sufficiently so for the hardest work if people were in the habit of making the calicoes worn for such use, simply with a skirt and half-fitting saque. Many ladies make the calico skirts of working dresses of straight breadths and no gores in order that, when partially worn out, the front may be turned around to the back, thus bringing stronger breadths into the place of those which are thin and faded. The gathers are ripped from the waist- band and the skirt turned upside down. After a new lease of life has in this W' ay been secured to the skirt, there should be some way of renovating the upper portion, perhaps new sleeves, and, possibly, a renewal of the lower portions of the front if the waist is in saque form

The most economical and convenient time for making common dresses is at a season when more elaborate dresses are not in preparation. For cali- coes and ginghams it will be safe to select any of the simpler styles of walk- ing dresses. Plain percale and small checked ginghams combine w^ell, and make very pretty combinations may be made with calicoes and prints. A very practical little English wnrk on economy recommends keeping a little table of the widths of diflfei.^^. materials and the respective quantities re- quired for the ordinary garments used in the family for convenience in shop- ping

In cutting goods, economy of material is a consideration never to be lost sight of. Make a close calculation before using the scissors at all, and do not cut any part out until you have discovered the very best way of using the cloth to advantage. It will pay one to be very deliberate and take no step without due consideration. Of course, professional hands become so entirely familiar with their occupation that it does not demand much thought, but beginners will do well to ponder and plan and calculate closely the very best and most economical way in getting a garment out of a given quantity of cloth. Large patterns are desirable for dresses and some other things, but for most garments just enough is the best quantity to have. The extra half yard, or whatever portion is found to be in excess of the right length, is often useless, and with cloth, or other costly material, adds provokingly to the expense of a cloak, sacque, or whatever the garment may be.

People who economize Very rigidly sometimes argue that buying paper patterns adds too much to the cost of garments to be prudent purchases ; but

1222 DRESS MAKING AT HOME.

that seems like faulty reasoning in most cases, for the time, strength and labor spent in experimenting, to say nothing of the eventual possible wasting of material, would more than cowr the cost of the model. It is an excellent idea lor two or three friends to unite and purchase paper patterns t gether, dividing the expense between them, andselecungmeaium sizes, which would be readily adai)ted to their difierent degrees of slenderness or breadth.

If the dress is being iriade by a pers n of no experience, it will be well to cut the pattern out of old material, baste it together and try it on ; this not so mucli to correct pustible defects in the pattern as to guard against the mis- takes of inexperience, though even these need not be made if accurate care is used in following the patterns.

In regard to cutting-uut to the best advantage, imagine that the reader of this, having, fortunately for herself, finished making her own clothes, is about to make a polonaise for her small daughter or sister. Let her select the pat- tern she wishes, and if it is a new one, cut a facsimile of it in old cloth, baste together and try on, making any slight alteration in waist or shoulder seams that m:iy be needed. Then let her ascertain the width of the material decided on, andcalcuhite as nearly as possible the quantity needed — say it is three yards and a half of twenty-seven inch goods. With a piece of chalk let her mark off upon the carpet a section of that length and width, and lay the dif- ferentparts of tliej)a tern within its limits, turning and replacing them again and again till they are assuredly arranged to the best possible advantage, and the whole garment made to absorb the smallest amount of cloth that is prac- ticable. Of course the idea must be kept in view of a right and wrong side to the cloth, or an up-and-down to the figure, if there is one, but a little study and thought, afler the pieces are placed, will correct any mistake of that kind. Then it is well, before taking up the pattern and brushing the chalk-line from the carpet, to make a rough sketch or outline of the position it occupied upon the floor, and not trust altogether to memory to re-arrange it upon cloth. AH this performance seems rather formidable, but if a beginner will take the trouble to go through with it for a few times, she will find it like learning a trade, and a little experience will make her so thoroughly mistress of it that she will no longer need to be subject to such preliminari' s, but

In cutting a dress leave the sleeves and trimming till the last, then parings of gores and other pieces can be used up. Don't be afrafd of piecing. The sleeves should be whole, if possible, upon the upper parts, but the under parts may be made of patchwork, if necessary, especially where the upper part is wide. Even where both parts are of equal width care, ingenuity, and a little practice, make it possible to use up very small pieces when material is scant. The waist also may be pieced more than an ordinary dressmaker, whose time is money, can afford ; but if you make your own dresses you can sometimes get one "out of a surprisingly scant pattern, if you are patient and ingenious about pie(.-ing. The fronts may be faced instead of hemmed, and narrow pieces may be put under the arms without being noticed. If necessary, in a basque or polonaise, all the parts may be joined at the waist. In making over a dress quite short pieces may be used to advantage in this way. It is also possible, win n sorely driven by necessity, to jnece the fronts from the armsize across, and craftily cover the seam by arranging the trimming to represent a. square neck. Not more than an inch, if any, of the seam need be visible between the trimming and the armsize, and that will hardly be observed.

In cutting a basque or waist from an untried pattern, cut the lining first baste it up and try it on ; then, if any trilling alterations are necessary, tliej' can be made, and the goods cut according to the improvements. Cut it as

t)RESS MAKING AT HOME. 1223

long as the basque is to be, but if it is for a polonaise or redingote, it need be only five or six inches below the waistline. Soft twilled muslin makes the best lining ; that which is stiff and unpliable is very objectionable, as it is not only hard to fit, but soon stretches out of shape and leaves the dress goods over it without proper support. Dark linings, even for dark dresses, are now less in use than light. White is much used by dressmakers, but it soils too easily to altogether unobjectionable. The best color is a pearl, or a very light gray. For calico dresses, even for winter, the waist lining should always be white, as in washing, the color of a dark lining will run into and cloud the colors of the calico. Both lining and outside of the waist should 1)6 cut the straight way of the cloth, and the seams and darts must be creased on the lining exactly by the pattern, which must be pinned evenly upon it. Lay the lining upon the length of the goods, being very particular to have it, perfectly straight, and arrange the different pieces in a manner to save as much cloth as possible. If saving is a great object, facings can be sewed on the edges of both fronts, and no hems turned. By moving the the pieces about it will be easy, where there is no up and d^wn, to get the side pieces out between some of the larger parts. In basting the pieces to- gether, after they are secured to the lining, be verv particular to match them as the paper pattern indicates, following the creases exactly. To se- sure greater precision, it is best to mark the creases with a lead pencil. One can not be too particular about these darts, as they have much to do with the fit of the dress. Having

Long seams in the back extending to the shoulder, are more becoming to stout people than side bodies ending at the armsize. If the shoulders project, an allowance can be made by leaving the back longer than the sides If one shoulder is more prominent that the other, the defect should be skill- fully disguised by putting a layer of cotton upon the other side, so that the difference need not be noticed. If the arms are very thin, a sheet of cotton may be put between the outside and the lining of the upper part, Many dressmakers follow this plan, whenever the arm is not too large to admit of it, to secure a well-fitting sleeve, the short shoulders now worn to dresses requiring some adroitness in putting them in nicely, unless the material is thick like velvet, or is made so by wadding.

The next step in making the dress is to finish the sleeves. They should be slipped on the arm while the waist is on, and pinned to the shoulders. Very much depends upon the fit of the sleeves, and, even if cut from the best of patterns, they may wrinkle and set awry unless put inio the armhole properly. The latter must not be too tight or cut out too much in the back.

After a basque or polonaise is finished, it should have a strong belt sewed to the back and side seams, upon the inside, to fasten the front, for

1224 DRESS MAKING AT HOMl.

the double purpose of keeping the ^aist in place and relieving the strain upon the buttons.

Putting a garment together when it is carefully cut is a much easier task than when tlie separate pieces are not accurate, and require much measur- ing and triunning before they can be nicely adjusted toeach other. If lining is put into either a part or the whole of an article it must be tacked upoa the back of the })ieces before they are basted together. Care must be taken in halting not to stretch the seams out of shape. In making up cloth, the seams, after being stitched upon a sewing machine, should be laid ui)on and pressed down 1\ith a heavy hot iron. Each raw edge may then be bound with a narrow ribbon or galloon. This will give a neat finish to the wrong side and keep the threads from raveling. In very thick cloth the seams, af- ter pressing, should have a galloon laid over them, and hemmed down slightly, not letting the stitches show upon the right side ; or. with a cloth with a shaggy face, the seam may be sewed up and finished at the back with a wide fell, which must be pressed fiat. Thin materials, such as mohairs, grenadines etc., if made up without lining, are most neatly finished if the pieces are stitched together on the right side and then turned and sewed again upon tlie wrong side. This keeps the garment in better shape than the usual running and felling.

The next thing on the programme after putting on whalebone casings, is to face the bottom of the basque. It is then ready for the trimmimg, which can be put on in accordance with the taste of the designer. Many ladies wear adjustable waist trimmings. A bias band of the material, for instance, with both edges trimmed with gimp or tiny side-plaitingg, which goes around the neck and meets or crosses in front, half-way between the throat and belt. This is left off at pleasure, to make room for a dainty fichu of mull or colored silk, or for a becoming little shoulder cape of beads. These very expensive-looking little adjuncts to a dressy toilet can be made at home by ladies who have any leisure to spend in fancy work. Almost every young person has some middle-aged friend who will teach her how to make the bead fringes which, in former days, decorated the square ends of crotcheted silk purses. Those fringes were made of fine steel beads, and the netted beading done with an ordinary sewing needle. The beads now used are cut-jets of a much larger size, and three rows of the fringe are set upon a lace foundation, or even sewed together over a paper pattern, without other froundation than- a row of gimp between each fringe, which is concealed by the falling strands of beads. Trimmings for the tabliers o^ rich dresses are made in a similar manner by some ladies, who also imitate with their own ingenious fingers the gorgeous seventy-five and fifty-dollar fabrics which are sold in modest quantities for trimming.

In cutting a dress from plaid goods if the check is at all conspicuous, it must be arranged with care, or very ugly efTects will be produced, on the Avaist, particularly, the plaids should match exactly where tlie fronts meet In cutting out goods that are striped, have a whole stripe appear in the center of the front, and have the side-forms in the back present a perfectly matched appearance. The same attention should be paid to the sleeves, having a care as in all materials, that the parts above the elbows run with the thread length- ways of the cloth. If the sleeve pattern is too short, lengthen it equally at both ends; unless this is observed, the set of it will be changed.

A round skirt is easily made with an old, well-fitting skirt, on a paper pat- tern as a guide. The straight side of each gore must be towards the front. The seam in the front is not to be endured, and one in the back is to be avoided, if possible, upon any skirt which is not to be worn beneath a polonaise or overskirt ; but for aii overskirt all things are possible in the way of piecings and joinings. In making a trained or demi-trained skirt, if it should appear scantv and' hoop in the back, maks a «ut la th« sdg* d»«p anough to r©ii«v»

/ BltWSS MAKING AT HOME?\ 1225

it, and set in a V-shaped gore, which may be concealed by tne trimming, or cut shorter slits upon each side and set in gores.

Machine stitching is used upon dresses and trimmings. Even cai=;nmere and silk ruffles are hemmed on the machine instead of being lal5oriously blind- stitched, although the latter mode is is not out of date with those who do not mind trouble. It is now acknowledged by the best dressmakers that nothing equals coarse alpaca or brilliantine for a skirt facing. Nearly every color can be matched in it, and it looks well, wears well and sheds the dirt admirably. Braid is now usually not felled down as formerly. About a third of its width is allowed to project befow the skirt, which is thought to hang better than when bound with the braid. It should be sewed on by hand after the dress is finished, not set in between the facing and outside, as is sometimes done. When it becomes ragged it is a simple matter to rip it off and put on a fresh one. Or, a new and very pretty way is to top-pleat the braid in small pleats and sew it just inside bottom of skirt, thus forming a little trimming as well as a protection and doing away with any other "loot pleating. " It takes three bolts of braid for an ordinary walking dress.

RENOVATING.

If the silk is very dirty, spread each breadth on a large table, and sponge it upon both sides with warm water mixed with ox gall. — Rinse the silk several times in clear cold water, changing the water each time. Then sponge it upon the wrong side with a very weak solution of glue. Try the experiment first on a scrap of the goods till you find it as stiff as new silk should be. Dry the eilk, and then roll it up in a damp towel and after two or three hours, iron it upon the wrong side with a moderately hot iron. Black, and some dark shades of cashmere, may be cleaned by the same process.

Where a black silk has a shiny, greasy look, its freshness can fre- quently be restored by sponging it with ammonia without ripping up the dress. AVhere a silk of any color becomes more defaced with spots than actually soiled, the spots can be removed by rubbing them with a mixture made by putting half an ounce of camphor and an ounce of borax in boiling water, and adding to it when cool a teacup of alcohol and half that quantity of ammonia.

A favorite way of cleaning and restoring silk, is by sponging it with a preparation made by boiling a large, unpeeled potato and a kid glove to- gether for a long time. The glove should be of the color of the silk, and if the shade is very light, the potato must have the sVin removed before boil- ing. After the mixture is cool add a small quantity of ammonia if the silk is very dirty. No glue or gum will be needed, as the glove furnishes the proper degree of stiffening. After sponging, and wiping with a dry cloth, fold the silk in as nearly as possible the form of new silk, or roll it upon a rod covered with thick cloth. Avoid ironing it if possible, as the texture of the silk is better preserved without the application of heat ; but if the wrinkles do not disappear, press it on the wrong side with as cool an iron as can be efficiently used. The glove and potato treatment is excellent for restoring black of all kinds, even veils and shawls.

Another way of cleaning black silk is first to thoroughly brush and wipe with a cloth, then lay flat on a board or table and sponge well with hot coffee thoroughly freed from sediment by being strained through muslin. Sponge on the side intended to show, allow to become partially dry and then iron on the wrong side. The coffee removes every particle of giease and restores the brilliancy of silk without imparting to it either the shiny appearance or crackly and papery stiffness obtained by beer, or indeed, any other liquid.

1226 DRESS MAKING AT HOME.

The silk re.illy appears thickened by the process, and this good effect is per- manent.

The following method of cZ^'annrgf s?7A:s has many advocates, and is said to be admirably adapted for delicate evening shades : To quarter of a j)ound of soft soap put atea-poouful of sugar and a large cofTeecupful of alcohol. Wet the silk all over with tlie mixture, then rinse it in several waters, being careful not to crease it. Let it dry partially, and iron it upon the wrong side, unless it is suiooth enough after rubbing with a soft towel. There is a great difl'erence in silks in this respect. Some that are very soft and of rich quality willljo smooth and unwrinkled after cleaning, if simply smoothe<l with the hands ajid carefully folded ; others need thorough pressing with an iron to jnit tliem in good shape. Heat takes the stiffening from silk, and, if it is found necessary to iron it, it is well to dry it and then dampen with water in which a little gum or glue has been dissolved. The wisest way, as suggested above, is, in any of the methods given to try the whole ])rocess upon a small piece of tiie silk to be cleaned. Observation will then indicate if any ciiange is needed in the operation All these receipts have been tried with very good results ; but to get a good result in cleaning silk takes time, patience and backache.

If silk, after having been done over, or refinished, as it is called, looks well enough to make up again as a dress, it is very important that new lining should be used. Save the old ones to line e very-day dresses, but be sure to buy new waist and sleeve linings for the silk, or it will fall into the creases and folds that wearing has proclucedin the muslin, and have an old expres- sion in spite of all the trouble that it has cost. If the silk is to be cut up for trimmings it will pay to line them. Bias frills and side-plaited ruffies can be lined with coarse Swiss and folds and bias bands interlined with old thin muslin which has been nicely starched and ironed. Attention to these small details will do mucli toward giving a new look the material.

Grease spots in any goods should be taken off as soon as they appear, as they yield to treatment much-more readily before dirt finds a lodgment in them. Benzine is one of the best agencies in use for removing grease from woolen dresses. Some people consider it best to wet the spot first with cold water, and apply the benzine within the circumference of the water-mark, asserting that even upon colored silk fabrics no trace of the benzine will be left after exposure to the air. Taking out spots which have destroyed or impaired the original color is a difficult matter and one that will need ex- perimenting upon in each case. Sometimes a mixture of camphor and borax is efficacious, and in others strong beer is a beneficial api)lication. If acids have caused the trouble, a weak solution of ammonia will often have a good effect. Sometimes an application of liquid blacking upon the faded or dis- colored spot mends the matter, but that succeeds best on material that has a nap or rough surface. A solution made by boiling logwood chips in a little water is said to be very good for restoiing "the color of black cashmere and other smooth woolen goods. It should be applied to the the spot with a sponge, and the operation should be repeated several times drying the goods aftereach application, and finally pressing it with a warm iron.

^len have been heard to say that women never brush their dresses. However untrue that sweeping assertion may be, it is certain that too little attention is paid to freeing dresses from the dust of the house and soil of tlie street. It is an excellent plan, upon taking off a dress, to brush it carefully all over with a small (not too stifi") wisp broom, giving particular care to all trimmings where ))laits or gathers make lodgments for tlie dust. If there is much upon the dress, rub it off with a coarse towel ora 'ft-ad of worsted goods. An excellent brush for cleaning woolen or silk dresses can be made by Cover- ing a square block of wood with furniture plush. For all silk dresses a jnece of flannel removes dust nicely. Ladies who are in mourning suffer much in-

DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 1227

convenience from the injury caused by drops of water falling upon their crape for each drop makes a conspicuous white mark. If, while wet. these are clap- ped between the hands until dry, no spots will appear. If the crape has dried without their removal, lay it upon a table and put under spots a piece of old black silk ; dip a camel's hair pencil in black ink and paint the spots lightly ; then wipe them off with old soft silk, and the color will be restored.

Partly worn fabrics may often be profitably renewed by calling in the dyer's art. Some people have excellent success in using famiy dyes, "and for tliem it will be an object to color many useful things, for which it would not be worth while to pay a professional dyer's char^re. Ribbons, neclcties, trim- mings and many small things which need patience and careful maniimlation can be colored beautifully at home. Stockingf*, linings and odds and ends that might not otherwise be used, can also be advantageously subjected to the amateur process, but for material that is to be remade into dresses it would be wisdom to employ the best professional skill. Some things, like merinos and cashmere, are worth dyeing at almost any price, and will look like new when they are done. Silk dyes well lor some purpo-es, but will never look like new after the process, even if the d_ver promises that it will ; hence it is a mistake to use it conspicuously after dyeing. It can be used as a basis of a costume, where the lines are broken by drapery, etc, or it will cut up ad- mirably for trimmings, but large surfaces of it should be avoided, as giving opportunity for the eye to catch sundry symptoms, such as streaks and a gen- eral limpness, which at once reveal the secret. IriKh poplins dye well, but have the one objection of shrinking lamentably. This should be taken into consideration in purchasing one of light color, and an extra piece, sufficient for a new waist, should be included in the original quantity. Velvets can be colored, but although the nap is beautifully raised when done by an expert, they lose much in appearance, and a velvet which cost ten dollars a yard will have the general expression of one which

Alpaca is an exception to most fabrics composed of two materials. It dyes well and does not shrink very much. In most materia's slate color will dye black, brown, claret, green, purple and dark blue. Light blue will dye medium and navy-blue, purple, crimson, green, prune, claret and black. Claret will dye brown, black, crimson and bottle green. Brown will dye darker brown, claret, black and green. Amber will dye green, scarlet, crimson, black and brown. Crimson will dye black, brown, claret and dark green. A lighter shade of crimson will dye black, brown, claret, dark green, blue ann a <larker self-shade. Drab will dye scarlet, crimson, green — both light and dark — purple, dark blue and clarel. Light green will dye claret, brown, black and crimson. Dark green will dve brown, black and claret. Lavender will dye brown, black, garnet, dark blue, green, plum and prune. Mauve will dye dark blue, black, claret, crimson, green and purple. Navy blue will dye brown, green, claret and black. Magenta will dye purple, scarlet, crimson, azuline and navy-blue, black, browns and clarets. Purple will dye black, dark crim- son, claret and dark green. Pmk will dye blue in most shades, all the red-

1228 DRESS MAKING AT HOME.

dish tones of color, medium and dark blues, black and most of the dark colors, including greens. Scarlet will dye dark green and blue, black, garnet and crimson. Straw color will take almost any color except light blue, lavender and pink.

Black and all the dark colors, if grown rusty or faded, can be dyed again the original color. They may turn out a little darker, but unless the material has ugly spots which require more dye to conceal, the color will be nearly the same as when new.

Plaid goods, if thick and unmixed with cotton, will often take a plain color, which should be at least as dark as the darkest shade in the pattern. Black and v;hite checks prove an exception to this ; as, if ski Ifuily done, they can be dyed scarlet or hght blue, the white blocks taking the color and the black remaining black.

It is damaging to dresses and other garments to lie by in a faded and dirty state ; therefore, if coloring them is in anticipation, it is best to prepare and send them to the dyers. After they are redressed they can be laid away till required, and wid take no harm.

Velveteen w ill dye and look very well at first, but being all cotton its re- newed good looks fade very quickly. For furniture or house decorations it might pay to have it done, but otherwise it is hardly to be advocated.

In coloring the old-fashioned, home-made preparations, requiring many ingredients and much labor in preparing, have been supplanted by the '"Dia- mond Dyes" lately introduced and kept for sale by all druggists. They are aniline dyes, and come in the form of a powder, put up in papers, and labeled with full instructions for using. The preparations for using these dyes are very simple, and no experience is required if the instructions are imp icitly followed. The color card shows the exact shade of the color you select, anci there is no trouble in experimenting to get the right shade. Besides the dyes are cheap and the results are equal to those produced by the professional dyer. There are several manufacturers of aniline dyes and inquiry at the nearest drug store will secure all the information as to prices, colors, etc., that may be desired by any lady.

children's clothin*,

Very few grown people understand the hardship itis to little folks to wear outgrown or clumsy or ill-titting garments. Boys are not supposed to have their feelings greatly harrowed at the sight of handsomer cloihes than their own, but eventhey'are quite alive to the mortification of wearing shabby or ill-cut and ill-made coats and trowsers. The trial falls most severely upon little girls, and to them it is a bitter one, and just as hard to be borne'as the alllictions of grown people are. With a keen eye for beauty, and often a natural or cultivated taste, a poor child is sometimes condemned to wear <'-arments of such a hideous character that she loathes the very thought of them, and actually suffers the most acute mortification.

There are mothers who devote too much thought and time to dressing their children, and who, by words and acts, lead them to feel that to be fashionably and elegantly dressed is the great good of life. This is a lamen- table mistake to make, but it also a mistake for a mother to attempt to im- bue her child with an indifference to dress or check the love of it by depriv- ing her of tasteful clothes. An ugly dress draws the thoughts of the wearer tolt.solf far more than a pretty, becoming one will, and a forlorn, ill-dressed little girl will grow up with a longing for finery that neat and pretty dress- ing will not often develop.

There is a good deal of work about making a dress, even if it is a small one, but it is very little more trouble te make it tasteful and stylish, and it

DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 1229

is a pleasanter task to create a pretty thing than an ugly one. Like all other arts of the home dressmaker, it takes experience to make a success of children's dresses. Amateurs are apt to take fright at the dressy, elaborate style now in vogue, but really there is nothing appealing about them with a plate or pattern to follow, and the most complicated are frequently the most easy to copy in old material, because the elaboration helps to disguise many makeshifts in the way of piecing and eking out scanty trimmings.

A dainty little miss we know of wears a dress for her "sunday best" that looks as it might have been selected from one of the shop windows. No one would suspect it being home-made, much less made mostly of a fabric no longer new. The foundation was a plain princesse form, cut from a thin lining, which, by the by, was originally a light calico morning dress of one of the older sisters. Among the cast-oflF clothes of the family were small por- tions of two very old silk dresses, one a fine black and white check, the other a plain dark brown. There was not in either enough in quantity to do much with alone, but combined there was sufficient to make a very good result. The silk was poor and thin, but it was carefully cleaned and stifi"- ened and wherever used furnished with a thin, coarse Swiss muslin lining. Long folds of the two silks alternating were put upon the front breadth per- pendicularly, reaching from the throat to the bottom of the dress in the cen- ter. Across the back were narrow gatliered ruffies of check silk bound with the plain brown. The upper part of the dress was of white Angora gauze skirting, which was but twenty cents a yard, and resembled a summer camel's hair. The fronts were made in sack form, meeting over the long center plaits at one point only, about equi-distant between the throat and waist, and cut away abruptly above and below. The back was long and looped over the ruffles with very graceful effect. The cufls were of check silk, with brown bias binding upon the edge, and the deep round collar (al- most a cape) was in the same order. The upper part of the dress was cov- ered with brown silk that was too old and poor to be fit for any other use ; but, un

Another dress of the same little lady's was made from a pair of old Tur- key red curtains, of the dark color and heavy quality of former manufacture. The dress was made with a full skirt gathere'd round the waist, with five rows of shirring. The blouse-waist was gathered in the same way. The deep collar, cufls, wide belt, and the binding to two ruffles on the bottom of the skirt, were of Madras gingham in indigo-blue shades. The combination made a very quaint and stylish dress, and was modeled from a recently im- ported one of much more expensive material.

Another lady who prides herself on her ingenuity made a very neat cloak for her girl from an old pair of pants. The fronts and backs were cut of narrow pieces (it could not have been otherwise), with seams extending to the shoulder. The pockets and cuffs were in good style, but not of the same material, which was a brown basket pattern. The upper parts of the sleeves were very presentable, but the under halves were curious mosaics of patchwork, telling something of the difficulty with which they succeded in being sleeves at all ; but nHmporte, nobody — not even a child — voluntarily offers the under part of" a sleeve for inspection, so its secrets need never be revealed.

In making over children's clothes or elders' clothes for children, there is a double advantage in combining more than one material. Fresher parts of both can be used, and harmonious arrangement of colors diverts the eye

3230 DRESS MAKING AT HOME.

from the want of newness tlmt might be apparent in a phiiner dress. In making use of diverse fabrics, there is, however, one all-important thing to be kei)t in mind — there must be a certain harmony in color and method in arrangement observed, or the effect will be disastrous. Tliere are people with artistic tastes to whom the knowledge of what is fitting and appropriate seems to come instinctively, and they need no advice ; but there many busy mothers living so far from our great cities and so off from the line of travel tliatthey have hut little opportunity for cultivating their tastes or of seeing what is fashionable, and often but little time to give the subject much tliought.

In reading over the ordinary articles upon children's fashions, one is constantly struck with the similarity of the materials advised for their cloth- ing, to those used for grown people. There seem to be no especial fabrics re- served for their use. This fact should be particularly comforting to those Avliose circumstances compel them to prepare their children's clothing from their stock on hand, which stock is generally understood to be worn-out dresses of mothers and sisters. When there was a marked difference be- tween the styles of child and adult, the wearing cast-off dresses of their elders was a real and bitter trial to little girls ; but there is no trouble about it now. Nearly everything that is wearable can be stylishly used under j.he present laws which govern fashion. Plaids and large figures, which might be grotesque in whole dresses, make very nice vests and trimmings to light up dull looking costumes.

Old brown or black woolen dresses that have grown rusty and faded, but have capabilities of usefulness, can be refreshed by steeping in a weak de- coction of logwood. Other colors in all-wool can be re-dyed at home with the ordinary family dyes. It should be remembered that it is much easier to re-color goods the same shade than it is to make an entire change of hue. It is best to match the color that the material was originally, and saturate it in the preparation, following the usually accompanying printed directions about drying, pressing, etc. It is a pity to spend time and trouble in making up dresses Avhich will look forlorn in spite of the pains lavished upon them when a previous "'-dyeing would have made such a wonderful change in their appearance.

The present very universal fashion of shirring dresses and trimmings is admirably adapted tb make over old materials into children's clothes. Worn- out ruffles can be closely gathered, or gauged, as the term is, and all the holes and thin places" made invisible by the process. If, for instance, a prudent mother has laid aside the flounces from some old skirt she has long iiixo taken for a petticoat or other use, she will now reap the benefit of her carefulness, and find herself able to make her child a dress at little cost. Let her cut a cambric skirt of a proper size, and cover it with the flounces, shirred at each edge with two gatherings, and a similar row through the mid- dle. The shirrings may run around the skirt, and the la])ping of the ruffles may be concealed by a" row of galloon or velvet, or tlie flounces may all be ])ie('ed together ])efore the shirrs are made. The gathers should 'be dis- tributed evenly, and sewed firmlv down upon the cambric.

Another mode of using the rufUes is to set them on the skirt perpendicu- larly ; ill this case the middle shirr may be omitted in eachruffie, unless they are over five inches wide. If that style does not meet with approval a puff (made of the flounces) may alternate Avith a close strip of shirring of equal width with the shirring allthe way around. Again, if it is desirable to piece out a scanty pattern, it will do to make the lower part of the skirt of the ruf- fles closely shirred, and cover the rest of it with the dress material. Both waists ancl sleeves, or either one alone, or deep yokes and cuffs, may be en- tirelv made of fine shirring, which, it will readily be seen, affords a fine op- portunity for using up irregular-shaped pieces of old material, as it is of very

DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 1:^31

little consequence how many pieceings are put into any thing that is so closely gathered up, always supposing that the industrious toiler has time and pa- ■ tience to do the pieceing. Unlimited patience seems to be the attribute of nearly all mothers, but time, the economical ones seem, alas, to have in but a limited supply.

It is cruel to condemn little girls, with their naturally dainty tastes and love for pretty things, to wearing ugly, ill-fashioned clothes ; but even made out of such materials as this article treats of, they can be as pretty, if not so durable, as if new material were used.

The subject of boys' wear needs consideration, for there is no direction in which the amateur's failures are so distre.^singiy palpable as in l)oys'clothes. The unfortunate little sons of poor, industrious motliers too often are con- demned to wear garments that give them a hopelessly awkward appearance. Growing boys, at their best, are not miracles of grace, but well-made clothes do wonders for them ; and it it is worth while for those who have the work to do to study to acquire the tailors' style of finishing garments, without which they are certain to have on uncouth, home-made air that condemns them at once. It is quite possible to learn this art by a little practice and close imita- tion of the finish that is found on coats and other articles of tailors' work- manship. The secret of style in m^n's clothes is in pressing — not such press- ing as people ordinarily do with the gentle gliding of a warm smoothing-iron over the cloth — but a vigorous bearing on with a hcavij iron that takes all the patience and strength of tiie worker. The iron should be, as the phrase goes, '' red-hot," and the danger of scoi clung the goods averted by keeping an old wet linen cloth between the garment and the iron. Later, a finishing smooth m 'Y be given with a cooler iron, through a thin dry cloth, to take out the wrinkles sometimes caused by the wetting.

It is a great mistake to suppose that when a boy's garment is made from the cast-off one of a man it is not worth while to take much trouble with it. for the cloth is generally of a better quality than that commonly purchased for boys, and the worn portions can all be cut away by care in disposing the pattern.

Before apprppriating cast-of coats or pantaloons of the father's to replen- ish the boy's wardrobes, the garments should be brushed well and ripped uj) ; then washed through two suds made of warm water and very strong soaji. For reliable colors, a little lye can be added to the first water. Do not twist, but stretch and pull the cloth, and fold up each piece tightly, and squeeze out the water by pressure, or put it carefully through a wringing-machine. Rinse again through two waters, with a little soap in the first, and press out the water as before. After all has been squeezed out that can be, hang the cloth in the air over a line, and when perfectly dry, roll very tightly in a damp towel, and leave for seA'eral hours, or till the next day ; then iron on the right side, through thin muslin, running the iron over till the cloth is entirely dry. If there are any prominent grease spots on the garment, it is best, before washing, to remove them with turpentine, potter's clay, or ben- zine. Stains can be treated, Uhough not always with success) with a mix- ture of ammonia, camphor, and water. For example — say that a jacket is to 1)6 cut from a sack coat; having washed the former as directed, select the simplest jacket pattern and lay each piece upon the cloth in a position to make the fronts out of the freshest parts. If the WTong side of the cloth is best worthy to be uppermost, that should have been pressed instead of the outside when it was washed. Sometimes the sleeves of gentlemen's coats are made in one piece, with but one seam, and that upon the outside. Such sleeves can often be used for the back of a jacket, while the original backs and parts of the skirt can be used for side

1232 DRESS MAKING AT HOME.

will never do to snip oft' the extra length, as some careless people do, but the longest side must be held in in sewing till the extra fullness is taken up.

In putting the collar on the jacket, care must be observed not to stretch or pull it out of shai)e ; it should also be held full enough to turn over easily and the seam should be pressed in the manner mentioned above. If possi- ble, a jacket that has been made by a tailor should be made the model of iniitation in making one at home, and, till experience has made the details familiar, it should be referred to in putting in pockets, setting in sleeves, and at every step of the way.

Small pantaloons are readily cut from larger ones, and even when the latter are seriously impaired, it is still i)ossi})le to make good new ones out oTthem. If the back is in holes, the thin parts can be replaced by long gore- shaped pieces, such as are seen in arit.y i)antaloons, and a pattern for boys, SDmetimes caller! the "cadet pants," can be procured, if such a device is needful. In cutting the fronts, try not to have the exact spot come on the knees that came tiiere before, but have it aliove or below, as it will not only wear out faster, Init bulge out in an unsightly fashion. If the cloth is thin and loosely woven, or has had already a great deal of wear, it will be well to line the little pantaloons throughout'. The fly should be lined with strong drilling interlined with canvas to give sufficient supi)ort to tiie button-holes. Short knee-V)reeches are much easier to make than long ones, and take such a small quantity of material that two pairs can be cut from one pair of ordi- nary-sized men's pants ; but of course, after a certain age, all the king's hor- ses and all the king's men would be a force insufficient to compel a little bo.v to give up his inalienable right to have his trousers as long as his father's ; and happy the mother whose young son does not insist on spring bottoms, for that is a touch very ditficult of attainment to any but an export. In order- ing a pantaloon pattern, it is less important to give the age of the boy than the length of his leg (measured upon the outside seam), as height varies much in similar ages. The Ulster is a form to be recommended for the over- coat, where new cloth is used, because it is so long and large that the material can

In making underwear for the little ones, the best "nightie" is that called the Perfect Night Dress. It is waist and drawers cut together with feet. They are thus i)erfectly protected even if the covers do come off" The gar- ments can be of flannel, canton flannel or muslin. It is a great aid to the little folks if their chemiloon's waists are made open in front as they can then niore easily learn to dress and undress themselves. There is not any reason why this should not be done, only that ojiening in the back has been the way and we are rather slow in leaving the heathen past. The night-dress must ojjcn in the back to allow for the flap which buttons up in the back.