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Poultry-Raising

Sanitary Dust-Bath

By Mrs. A. B, Ewer

PROVIDE my hens with a metal dusL- bath box set in the ground. I think it is much better than a wooden box set on top of the ground, as it can't tip over and also has the advantage of making the hens think they are really scratch- ing in the ground. Hens will use this box more readily than one they have to climb into. To make this box, get a piece of galvanized iron, and cut as dia- gram shows. An old galvanized stock tank may be used.

A metal box like this has no place for lice to breed in as a wooden one has ; nor will it swell from the moisture in the ground as wood does. Fill the box with road-dust to which has been added a small amount of good insect-powder.

' • V \'"

Beans as a Poultry Feed

By A. E. Vandervort

TN ALL my reading of poultry literature ^ and of all the poultry plants I have vis- ited, I have never found beans recom- mended or used as a feed for poultry. I have used them and with very good results. Of course hens will not eat raw, ripe, white beans. If one does, it is an exception — a phenomenon. In time of drought, when grass is dry and parched, hens will pick open the green pods and eat the green beans if they can get them. Neither are hens exceedingly fond of cooked beans, yet I have found that when mixed with ground grains and fed as a mash they eat them readily.

If the reader has ever thought of the matter, he or she will have discovered that the housewife seldom or never senses both eggs and beans at the same meal, nor does the ordinary individual care for these two kinds of food at the same time. There- fore, aside from any scientific knowledge of constituent food elements, we conclude that beans are a feed adapted to egg production.

Then again, except for fattening, hens do not require a concentrated grain diet, likg corn, wheat, buckwheat and millet. So we mix such grains with oats and barley to help fill the hens without overfeeding.

Add Some Little Relish

Now, I would not recommend buying beans at two dollars a bushel or upward for hen feed. In localities where beans are grown extensively cull beans are quite com- mon. The cull beans, consisting of splits, unripe, discolored or partly decayed and then dried beans along with some gravel and lumps of clay, are bought by fanners for feed for hogs and sheep. The usual price is about one dollar per hundredweight.

Time and fuel are important factors when considering cooked feed or raw grains. Where the housewife can put a kettle of cull beans on the kitchen stove and cook them without keeping up a fire for the beans alone there is no additional expense and such feed is cheap ; or, where the farmer has an outdoor cooker and cooks his feed every day for hogs, it is a very small chore to dish out a few of the beans for the hens. Three or four times a week is often enough to feed beans to hens. Put a few potatoes, apples or vegetable parings in with the beans as a relish ; and do not forget to salt them just about as you would for yourself.

How to Fight Vermin Successfully

By A. E. Vandervort

ANY people to-day who raise poultry know how to prevent and to exterminate vermin, but to do the work at just the right time seems to trouble them. These insects have such strong powers of reproduction that oftentimes a few days of neglect will overwhelm the whole flock. This is especially true of the little red mite. During chilly or real cold weather they neither breed nor feed, but woe unto poor hens at the first approach of warm weather. These pests approach the fowl only at their feeding-lime, suck what blood they need and return to their hiding-places, which are always be- neath the perches and in the nest-boxes. If not checked they will spread to every crack and crevice in the house. Prevention is therefore most important. First, all roost- rooms should be smooth, making as few hiding-places for the mites as possible. Second, perches and nest-boxes should never be nailed as permanent fixtures in the house. They should always be removable. Third, the greatest degree of cleanliness should be observed, especially during very warm weather when the mites arc most active.

When these pests have once obtained a foothold in your poultry-houses they must be exterminated, and for this purpose noth- ing is better or cheaper than kerosene. It is one of our household necessities, and is always ready and handy. Besides, it is far more penetrating ^an anything I have ever tried. Spray it into every crack and crevice in the house. The morning is the best time to do this in order to allow the air to become puiified before roosting-time at night.

The perches and nest-boxes should also receive a treatment. Some like whitewash better. It is all right, providing it is done thoroughly. For whitewashing the best method is to fill a fifty-gallon cask pretty full of good, fresh, hot whitewash and dip the nests and perches in it. Use a brush for parts which cannot be immersed in the whitewash. Whitewashing the house all over gives it a very neat appearance and at the same time kills the vermin. This is best applied with a good sprayer.

Use Insect-Powder for Body-Lice

Body-lice, which are most destructive to the health of the young stock, are the pri- mary cause of many chicks becoming stunted. Furthermore, a flock of fowls infested with body-lice require at least twice as much food, and a general weakness is bound to come over a flock, which makes them easy victims to disease.

Body-lice are on the body only. Their breeding-place is below the vent of the fowl, and their eggs are attached to the base of the feathers, as that is the warmest part of the fowl. Incubation is rapid and perfect. In looking for these you must be quick, as they escape as soon as you open the feathers. They are not blood-suckers, like the red mite, but live mostly on the scales of the fowl's body. These scales are necessary to the fowl's health. A dust bath aids in keep- ing body-lice in check and is the natural method of protection, but can never be depended upon as a cure. To exterminate body-lice use a good insect-powder. Take the fowl by the feet, thrust her head into a galvanized iron half-bushel or similar re- ceptacle, so that all powder that does not go into the feathers can be saved for future use. Dust her feathers full. If the powder is good and the work thoroughly done, there will be no live lice ten minutes after the operation. Do not stop with a single treat- ment, for there is another crop that will hatch from the nits. To make a clean sweep a second treatment must be given after a week or ten days, and you will have no more body-lice.

The head-lice are entirely different from the other kinds of lice, and are true to their name, as they are never found anywhere but on the head and neck. At molting-time as many as half a dozen may be found on a single quill. They are also very common and destructive among young chicks. To get rid of head-lice apply equal parts of sweet oil and kerosene to the feathers of the head and neck. A few drops will do the work. One treatment is hardly sufficient in most cases, so I would advise a second application a few days later.

Some ask me why either treatment will not kill both kinds of lice. It will do no

Body^ouse Head-louse Red mite

All greatly magnified

harm to apply the powder to kill the head- lice, but it is impossible to get the powder at the base of the quills of the neck to catch all, hence a penetrating oil must be used. Then if you use the oil treatment for the body-louse, applying it to all parts of the fowl's body, it would result in the death of the fowl, because all the pores of the body must not be closed at once.

Hens for Incubator Chicks

By Mrs. S. L. Reynolds HAVE found that it takes a good deal of time to give the little flock in the brooder proper care, and even then many die or arc accidentally killed. So I plan to make my hens raise my chicks.

After they have been sitting a few days on nest eggs, I place the incubator chicks un- der them at night. The next day I remove them from the nest to a neat little pen about si.x feet square made of chicken wire having a good coop attached.

One hen can easily c.nrc for thirty chick- ens by being confined to a small place until the chickens are six or eight weeks old.

For the first ten days I feed some good chick food and occasionally a good feed of hard-boiled eggs mashed fine. After this age they can eat cracked wheat, but if I have plenty of eggs 1 continue the hard- boiled egg diet until chickens are of good size. The pen may be moved frequently to give fresh grass and new ground.

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