Small White and Compound Sauces.

58—AMERICAN SAUCE

This sauce is that of lobster prepared “à l’Américaine” (see No. 939). As it generally accompanies a fish, the meat of the lobster or lobsters which have served in its preparation is sliced and used as the garnish of the fish.

59—ANCHOVY SAUCE

Put into a small stewpan one pint of unbuttered “Normande Sauce” (No. 99), and finish it, away from the fire, with three oz. of anchovy butter, and one oz. of anchovy fillets, washed, well sponged, and cut into small pieces.

60—AURORE SAUCE

Into one-half pint of boiling velouté put the same quantity of very red tomato purée (No. 29), and mix the two. Let the sauce boil a little, pass it through a tammy, and finish, away from the fire, with three oz. of butter.

61—LENTEN AURORE SAUCE

This sauce is made like the preceding one, _i.e._, with the same quantities of velouté and tomato purée, replacing ordinary velouté by fish velouté.

62—BÉARNAISE SAUCE

Put into a small stewpan one teaspoonful of chopped shallots, two oz. of chopped tarragon stalks, three oz. of chervil, some mignonette pepper, a pinch of salt, and four tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Reduce the vinegar by two-thirds, take off the fire, let the stewpan cool a little, and add to this reduction the yolks of five eggs. Now put the stewpan on a low fire and gradually combine with the yolks six oz. of melted butter. Whisk the sauce briskly, so as to ensure the cooking of the yolks, which alone, by gradual cooking, effect the leason of the sauce.

When the butter is combined with the sauce, rub the latter through tammy, and finish it with a teaspoonful of chervil parings and chopped tarragon leaves. Complete the seasoning with a suspicion of cayenne. This sauce should not be served very hot, as it is really a mayonnaise with butter. It need only be tepid, for it would probably turn if it were over-heated. Serve it with grilled, butcher’s meat and poultry.

63—BÉARNAISE SAUCE WITH MEAT GLAZE, OTHERWISE VALOIS SAUCE OR FOYOT SAUCE

Prepare a Béarnaise sauce as explained in No. 62. Complete it with three tablespoonfuls of dissolved pale meat glaze, which may be added in small quantities at a time. Serve it with butcher’s meat.

64—BÉARNAISE TOMATÉE SAUCE OR CHORON SAUCE

Proceed in exactly the same way as for Béarnaise No. 62. When the sauce is made and rubbed through tammy, finish it with one-third pint of very red tomato purée. In this case the final addition of chervil and tarragon should not be made.

This is proper to “Tournedos Choron,” but it may accompany grilled poultry and white, butcher’s meat.

65—BERCY SAUCE

Heat two oz. of chopped shallots. Moisten with one-half pint of white wine and as much fish _fumet_, or, when possible, the same quantity of fish liquor, the latter being, of course, that of a fish similar to the one the sauce is to accompany. Reduce to a good third, add one-third pint of velouté, let the sauce boil some time, and finish it, away from the fire, with four oz. of butter (added by degrees), a few drops of fish glaze, half the juice of a lemon, and one oz. of chopped parsley.

Serve with medium-sized poached fish.

66—BUTTER SAUCE

Mix two oz. of sifted flour with two oz. of melted butter. Dilute with one quart of boiling water, salted to the extent of one-quarter oz. per quart. Stir briskly to ensure a perfect leason, and do not allow to boil. Add immediately the yolks of six eggs mixed with one-quarter pint of cream and the juice of half a lemon. Rub through a tammy, and finish the sauce with five oz. of best fresh butter.

Be careful that the sauce does not boil after it has been thickened.

67—BONNEFOY SAUCE, OR WHITE BORDELAISE SAUCE

Put in a stewpan two oz. of minced shallots and one-half pint of Graves, Sauterne, or any other excellent white Bordeaux. Reduce the wine almost entirely, add one-quarter pint of velouté, let it simmer twenty minutes, and rub it through a tammy. Finish it, away from the fire, with six oz. of butter and a little chopped tarragon.

Serve it with grilled fish and grilled white meat.

68—CAPER SAUCE

This is a derivative of the Butter Sauce described under No. 66, and there need only be added two tablespoonfuls of capers per pint of sauce. It frequently accompanies boiled fish of all kinds.

69—CARDINAL SAUCE

Boil one pint of Béchamel, to which add one-half pint of fish _fumet_ and a little truffle essence, and reduce by a quarter. Finish the sauce, when dishing up, with three tablespoonfuls of cream and three oz. of very red lobster butter (No. 149).

This sauce is poured over the fish.

70—MUSHROOM SAUCE

If this be intended for poultry, add one-fifth pint of mushroom liquor and eight oz. of button-mushroom heads turned or channelled and cooked, to one pint of very stiff Allemande Sauce.

If it be intended for fish, take one pint of fish velouté, thickened with the yolks of four eggs, and finish it with mushroom liquor, as above.

The sauce that I suggest for poultry may also be used for fish, after adding the necessary quantity of fish _fumet_.

71—CHÂTEAUBRIAND SAUCE

Put one oz. of chopped shallots, a sprig of thyme and a bit of bay, one oz. of mushroom parings, and one-quarter pint of white wine into a stewpan. Reduce the wine almost entirely, add one-half pint of veal gravy, and reduce again until the liquid only measures one-quarter pint. Strain through muslin, and finish the sauce away from the fire with four oz. of butter “Maître d’Hôtel” (No. 150), to which may be added a little chopped tarragon. Serve with grilled fillet of beef, otherwise “Châteaubriand.”

72—WHITE CHAUD-FROID SAUCE

Boil one pint of velouté in a stewpan, and add three-quarters pint of melted white poultry jelly. Put the stewpan on an open fire, reduce the sauce by a third, stirring constantly the while, and gradually add one-half pint of very fresh cream. When the sauce has reached the desired degree of consistency rub it through a tammy, and stir it frequently while it cools, for fear of a skin forming on its surface, for if this happened it would have to be strained again. When dishing up, this sauce should be cold, so that it may properly coat immersed solids and yet be liquid enough to admit of the latter being easily steeped into it.

73—ORDINARY CHAUD-FROID SAUCE

Proceed exactly as above, substituting Allemande Sauce for the velouté, and reducing the quantity of cream to one-quarter pint. Observe the same precautions while cooling.

74—CHAUD-FROID SAUCE, A L’AURORE

Prepare a white Chaud-Froid (No. 72). The same may be coloured by the addition of fine red tomato purée—more or less to match the desired shade—or by an infusion of paprika, according to the use for which it is intended. This last product is preferable when not too deep a shade is required.

75—CHAUD-FROID SAUCE, AU VERT-PRÉ

Add to the velouté of the white Chaud-Froid sauce, at the same time as the jelly, an infusion prepared thus:—Boil one-quarter pint of white wine, and add to it one pinch of chervil stalks, a similar quantity of tarragon leaves, chives, and parsley leaves. Cover, allow infusion to proceed away from the fire for ten minutes, and strain through linen.

Treat the sauce as explained, and finish with spinach-green (No. 143). The shade of the sauce must not be too pronounced, but must remain a pale green. The colouring principle must therefore be added with caution and in small quantities, until the correct shade is obtained. Use this sauce for Chaud-froids of fowl, particularly that kind distinguished as “_Printanier_.”

76—LENT CHAUD-FROID SAUCE

Proceed as for white Chaud-Froid, using the same quantities, and taking note of the following modifications:—

1. Substitute fish velouté for ordinary velouté.

2. Substitute white fish jelly for poultry jelly.

_Remarks._—I have adopted the use of this ordinary Chaud-Froid sauce for the glazing of fillets and escalopes of fish and Shell-fish, instead of cleared Mayonnaise, formerly used, which had certain inconveniences—not the least being the oozing away of the oil under the shrinkage of the gelatine. This difficulty does not obtain in the ordinary Chaud-Froid, the definite and pronounced flavour of which is better than that of the cleared Mayonnaise.

77—“ESCOFFIER” CHERRY SAUCE

This sauce may be bought ready-made. Like the Roberts Sauce, it can be served hot or cold. It is an excellent adjunct to venison, and even to small ground-game. Saddle of venison with this sauce constitutes one of the greatest dainties that an epicure could desire.

78—CHIVRY SAUCE

In one-half pint of boiling poultry stock put a large pinch of chervil pluches, tarragon and parsley leaves, a head of young pimpernel (the qualification here is very important, for this aromatic plant grows bitter as it matures), and a good pinch of chives. Cover up, and let infusion proceed for ten to twelve minutes; then add the liquid (strained through linen) to one pint of velouté. Boil, reduce by a quarter, and complete it with two oz. of Green Butter (No. 143). Chivry Sauce is admirably suited to boiled or poached poultry.

79—CREAM SAUCE

Boil one pint of Béchamel Sauce, and add one-quarter pint of cream to it. Reduce on an open fire until the sauce has become very thick; then pass through tammy. Bring to its normal degree of consistency by gradually adding, away from the fire, one-quarter pint of very fresh cream and a few drops of lemon-juice. Serve this sauce with boiled fish, poultry, eggs, and various vegetables.

80—SHRIMP SAUCE

Boil one pint of fish velouté or, failing this, Béchamel sauce, and add to it one-quarter pint of cream and one-quarter pint of very clear fish _fumet_. Reduce to one pint, and finish the sauce, away from the fire, with two oz. of Shrimp Butter (No. 145) and two oz. of shelled shrimps’ tails.

81—CURRY SAUCE

Slightly brown the following vegetables in butter:—Twelve oz. of minced onions, one oz. of parsley roots, four oz. of minced celery, a small sprig of thyme, a bit of bay, and a little mace. Sprinkle with two oz. of flour and a teaspoonful of curry pepper. Cook the flour for some minutes without letting it acquire any colour, and dilute with one and one-half pints of white stock. Boil, cook gently for three-quarters of an hour, and rub through a tammy. Now heat the sauce, remove its grease, and keep it in the _bain-marie_. Serve this sauce with fish, shell-fish, poultry, and various egg-preparations.

N.B.—This sauce is sometimes flavoured with cocoa-nut milk in the proportion of one-quarter of the diluent.

82—DIPLOMATE SAUCE

Take one pint of Normande Sauce, prepared according to No. 99, and finish it with two oz. of lobster butter and three tablespoonfuls of lobster meat, and truffles cut into small, regular tubes.

83—HERB SAUCE

Prepare one pint of white-wine sauce (No. 111). Finish it away from the fire with three oz. of shallot butter, a tablespoonful of parsley, chervil, tarragon, and chives, chopped and mixed. Serve this sauce with boiled or poached fish.

84—GOOSEBERRY SAUCE

Prepare one pint of butter sauce, Formula No. 66. Meanwhile put one lb. of green gooseberries into a small copper saucepan containing boiling water. Boil for five minutes, then drain the gooseberries, and put them in a little stewpan with one-half pint of white wine and three oz. of powdered sugar. Gently cook the gooseberries, rub them through a tammy, and add the resulting pulp to the butter sauce. This sauce is excellent with grilled mackerel and the poached fillets of that fish.

85—HUNGARIAN SAUCE

Gently fry in butter, without colouring, two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions seasoned with table-salt and half a teaspoonful of paprika. Moisten with one-quarter pint of white wine, add a small faggot, reduce the wine by two-thirds, and remove the herbs.

Finish with one pint of ordinary or Lenten Velouté, according to the use for which the sauce is intended, and boil moderately for five minutes. Then rub the sauce through a tammy, and complete it with two oz. of butter. Remember this sauce should be of a tender, pink shade, which it must owe to the paprika alone.

It forms an ideal accompaniment to choice morsels of lamb and veal, eggs, poultry, and fish.

86—OYSTER SAUCE

Take one pint of Normande Sauce, finish it as directed in that recipe, and complete it with one-quarter pint of reduced oyster liquor, strained through linen, and twelve poached and trimmed oysters.

87—IVORY SAUCE, OR ALBUFERA SAUCE

Take the necessary quantity of Suprême Sauce, prepared as explained in No. 106a. Add to this four tablespoonfuls of dissolved, pale, meat glaze per quart of sauce, in order to lend the latter that ivory-white tint which characterises it. Serve this sauce chiefly with poultry and poached sweet-bread.

88—JOINVILLE SAUCE

Prepare one pint of Normande Sauce (No. 99), as given in the first part of its formula, and complete it with two oz. of shrimp butter and two oz. of crayfish butter. If this sauce is to accompany a fish à la Joinville, which includes a special garnish, it is served as it stands. If it is served with a large, boiled, ungarnished fish, one oz. of very black truffles cut _Julienne-fashion_ should be added. As may be seen, Joinville Sauce differs from similar preparations in the final operation where crayfish and shrimp butter are combined.

89—MALTESE SAUCE

To the Hollandaise Sauce, given under No. 30, add, when dishing up, the juice of two blood oranges (these late-season oranges being especially suitable for this sauce) and half a coffeespoonful of grated orange-rind.

Maltese Sauce is the finest for asparagus.

90—MARINIÈRE SAUCE

Take the necessary quantity of Bercy Sauce (No. 65), and add, per pint of sauce, one-quarter pint of mussel liquor and a leason composed of the yolks of three eggs.

Serve this with small poached fish and more particularly with mussels.

91—MORNAY SAUCE

Boil one pint of Béchamel Sauce with one-quarter pint of the _fumet_ of the fish, poultry, or vegetable, which is to constitute the dish. Reduce by a good quarter, and add two oz. of Gruyère and two oz. of grated Parmesan.

Put the sauce on the fire again for a few minutes, and ensure the melting of the cheese by stirring with a small whisk. Finish the sauce away from the fire with two oz. of butter added by degrees.

92—MOUSSELINE SAUCE

To a Hollandaise Sauce, prepared as explained (No. 30), add, just before dishing up, one-half pint of stiffly-whipped cream per pint of sauce.

93—MOUSSEUSE SAUCE

Scald and wipe a small vegetable-pan, and put into it one-half lb. of stiffly-_manied_ butter, properly softened. Season this butter with table-salt and a few drops of lemon-juice, and whisk it while gradually adding one-third pint of cold water. Finish with two tablespoonfuls of very firm, whipped cream. This preparation, though classified as a sauce, is really a compound butter, which is served with boiled fish. The heat of the fish alone suffices to melt it, and its appearance is infinitely more agreeable than that of plain, melted butter.

94—MUSTARD SAUCE

Take the necessary quantity of butter sauce and complete it, away from the fire, with one tablespoonful of mustard per pint of sauce.

N.B.—If the sauce has to wait, it must be kept in a _bain-marie_, for it should not on any account boil. It is served with certain small grilled fish, especially fresh herrings.

95—NANTUA SAUCE

Boil one pint of Béchamel Sauce, add one-half pint of cream, and reduce by a third. Rub it through a tammy, and finish it with a further addition of two tablespoonfuls of cream, three oz. of very fine crayfish butter, and one tablespoonful of small, shelled crayfishes’ tails.

96—NEWBURG SAUCE

_First Method_ (_with Raw Lobsters_).—Divide a two lb. lobster into four parts. Remove its creamy parts, pound them finely with two oz. of butter, and put them aside.

Heat in a sautépan one and one-half oz. of butter and as much oil, and insert the pieces of lobster, well seasoned with salt and cayenne. Fry until the pieces assume a fine, red colour; entirely drain away the butter, and add two tablespoonfuls of burnt brandy and one-third pint of Marsala or old Sherry.

Reduce the wine by two-thirds, and wet the lobster with one-third pint of cream and one-half pint of fish _fumet_. Now add a faggot, cover the sautépan, and gently cook for twenty-five minutes. Then drain the lobster on a sieve, remove the meat and cut it into cubes, and finish the sauce by adding the creamy portions put aside from the first. Boil so as to ensure the cooking of these latter portions; add the meat, cut into cubes, and verify the seasoning.

N.B.—The addition of the meat to the sauce is optional; instead of cutting it into cubes it may be stewed and displayed on the fish constituting the dish.

97—SECOND METHOD (WITH COOKED LOBSTER)

The lobster having been cooked in a _Court-bouillon_, shell the tail and slice it up. Arrange these slices in a sautépan liberally buttered at the bottom; season them strongly with salt and cayenne, and heat them on both sides so as to effect the reddening of the skin. Immerse, so as to cover, in a good Sherry, and almost entirely reduce same.

When dishing up, pour on to the slices a leason composed of one-third pint of fresh cream and the yolks of two eggs. Gently stir, away from the fire, and roll the saucepan about until the leason is completed.

Originally, these two sauces, like the American, were exclusively composed of, and served with, lobster. They were one with the two very excellent preparations of lobster which bear their name. In its two forms lobster may only be served at lunch, many people with delicate stomachs being unable to digest it at night. To obviate this serious difficulty, I have made it a practice to serve lobster sauce with fillets or Mousselines of sole, adding the lobster as a garnish only. And this innovation proved most welcome to the public.

By using such condiments as curry and paprika, excellent varieties of this sauce may be obtained, which are particularly suited to sole and other white Lenten fish. In either of these cases it is well to add a little rice “à l’Indienne” to the fish.

98—NOISETTE SAUCE

Prepare a Hollandaise Sauce according to the recipe under No. 30. Add two oz. of hazel-nut butter at the last moment.

Serve this with salmon, trout, and all boiled fish in general.

99—NORMANDE SAUCE

Put in a sautépan one pint of fish velouté, three tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor, as much oyster liquor, and twice as much sole _fumet_, the yolks of three eggs, a few drops of lemon-juice, and one-quarter pint of cream. Reduce by a good third on an open fire, season with a little cayenne, rub through a tammy, and finish with two oz. of butter and four tablespoonfuls of good cream.

This sauce is proper to fillet of sole “à la Normande,” but it is also frequently used as the base of other small sauces.

100—ORIENTAL SAUCE

Take one pint of American sauce, season with curry, and reduce to a third. Then add, away from the fire, one-quarter pint of cream per pint of sauce.

Serve this sauce in the same way as American Sauce.

101—POULETTE SAUCE

Boil for a few minutes one pint of Sauce Allemande, and add six tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor. Finish, away from the fire, with two oz. of butter, a few drops of lemon-juice, and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Use this sauce with certain vegetables, but more generally with sheep’s trotters.

102—RAVIGOTE SAUCE

Reduce by half, one-quarter pint of white wine with half as much vinegar. Add one pint of ordinary velouté, boil gently for a few minutes, and finish with one and one-half oz. of shallot butter and one teaspoonful of chervil, tarragon, and chopped chives. This sauce accompanies boiled poultry and certain white “_abats_.”

103—REGENCY SAUCE

_If this sauce is to garnish poultry_, boil one pint of Allemande Sauce with six tablespoonfuls of mushroom essence and two tablespoonfuls of truffle essence. Finish with four tablespoonfuls of poultry glaze.

_If it is to garnish fish_, substitute for the Allemande Sauce some fish velouté thickened with egg-yolks and the essences of mushroom and truffle as above. Complete with some fish essence.

104—SOUBISE SAUCE

Stew in butter two lbs. of finely-minced onions, scalded for three minutes and well dried. This stewing of the onions in butter increases their flavour. Now add one-half pint of thickened Béchamel; season with salt and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar. Cook gently for half an hour, rub through a tammy, and complete the sauce with some tablespoonfuls of cream and two oz. of butter.

105—SOUBISE SAUCE WITH RICE

The same quantity as above of minced onions, scalded and well drained. Garnish the bottom and the sides of a tall, medium stewpan with some thin rashers of fat bacon. Insert the onions, together with one-quarter lb. of Carolina rice, one pint of white consommé, a large pinch of powdered sugar, and the necessary salt. Cook gently in the front of the oven for three-quarters of an hour. Then pound the onions and rice in a mortar, rub the resulting purée through a tammy, and finish with cream and butter as in the preceding case.

N.B.—This sauce, being more consistent than the former, is used as a garnish just as often as a sauce.

106—SOUBISE SAUCE TOMATÉE

Prepare a soubise in accordance with the first of the two above formulæ, and add to it one-third of its volume of very red tomato purée.

1. The Soubise is rather a cullis than a sauce; _i.e._, its consistence must be greater than that of a sauce.

2. The admixture of Béchamel in Soubise is preferable to that of rice, seeing that it makes it smoother. If, in certain cases, rice is used as a cohering element, in order to give the Soubise more stiffness.

3. In accordance with the uses to which it may be put, the Soubise Tomatée may be finally seasoned either with curry or paprika.

106a—SUPRÊME SAUCE

The salient characteristics of Suprême Sauce are its perfect whiteness and consummate delicacy. It is generally prepared in small quantities only.

_Preparation._—Put one and one-half pints of very clear poultry stock and one-quarter pint of mushroom cooking liquor into a sautépan. Reduce to two-thirds; add one pint of “poultry velouté”; reduce on an open fire, stirring with the spatula the while, and combine one-half pint of excellent cream with the sauce, this last ingredient being added little by little.

When the sauce has reached the desired consistence, strain it through a sieve, and add another one-quarter pint of cream and two oz. of best butter. Stir with a spoon, from time to time, or keep the pan well covered.

107—VENETIAN SAUCE

Put into a stewpan one tablespoonful of chopped shallots, one tablespoonful of chervil, and one-quarter pint of white wine and tarragon vinegar, mixed in equal quantities. Reduce the vinegar by two-thirds; add one pint of white wine sauce (No. 111); boil for a few minutes; rub through a tammy, and finish the sauce with a sufficient quantity of Herb Juice (No. 183) and one teaspoonful of chopped chervil and tarragon. This sauce accompanies various fish.

108—VILLEROY SAUCE

Put into a sautépan one pint of Allemande Sauce to which have been added two tablespoonfuls of truffle essence and as much ham essence.

Reduce on an open fire and constantly stir until the sauce is sufficiently stiff to coat immersed solids thickly.

109—VILLEROY SOUBISEE SAUCE

Put into a sautépan two-thirds pint of Allemande Sauce and one-third pint of Soubise purée (Formula 105). Reduce as in the preceding case, as the uses to which this is put are the same. Now, according to the circumstances and the nature of the solid it is intended for, a few teaspoonfuls of very black, chopped truffles may be added to this sauce.

110—VILLEROY TOMATÉE SAUCE

Prepare the sauce as explained under No. 108, and add to it the third of its volume of very fine tomato purée. Reduce in the same way.

_Remarks._—1. Villeroy sauce, of whatsoever kind, is solely used for the coating of preparations said to be “à la Villeroy.”

2. The Villeroy Tomatée may be finally seasoned with curry or paprika, according to the preparation for which it is intended.

111—WHITE WINE SAUCE

The three following methods are employed in making it:—

1. Add one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_ to one pint of thickened Velouté, and reduce by half. Finish the sauce, away from the fire, with four oz. of butter. Thus prepared, this white wine sauce is suitable for glazed fish.

2. Almost entirely reduce one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_. To this reduction add the yolks of four eggs, mixing them well in it, and follow with one lb. of butter, added by degrees, paying heed to the precautions indicated under sauce Hollandaise No. 30.

3. Put the yolks of five eggs into a small stewpan and mix them with one tablespoonful of cold fish-stock. Put the stewpan in a _bain-marie_ and finish the sauce with one lb. of butter, meanwhile adding from time to time, and in small quantities, six tablespoonfuls of excellent fish _fumet_. The procedure in this sauce is, in short, exactly that of the Hollandaise, with this distinction, that here fish _fumet_ takes the place of the water.