Whiting (Merlan)

1014—MERLAN A L’ANGLAISE

Open the whitings down the back; loosen the spine, and completely remove it. Season them inside, and treat them _à l’anglaise_ with very fresh and fine bread-crumbs.

Cook the whitings very quickly in clarified butter; set them on a long dish, and sprinkle them with half-melted butter à la Maître-d’Hôtel.

N.B.—Whitings à l’anglaise may also be grilled, but it is preferable to cook them in clarified butter.

1015—MERLAN A LA BERCY

Slightly open the whitings down the back, with the view of promoting their cooking process. Lay them on a buttered dish sprinkled with finely-chopped shallots, and moisten them with white wine and fish _fumet_. Add one-half oz. of butter per whiting, and cook in the oven, basting often the while. The moment when the whitings are quite done should be coincident with the almost complete reduction of their cooking-liquor.

Set to glaze at the last moment.

When taking the whitings out of the oven, sprinkle them with a few drops of lemon juice and a little chopped parsley.

1016—MERLAN A LA COLBERT

Open the whitings down the back, and bone them. Season them; dip them in milk; roll them in flour; and treat them _à l’anglaise_. Fry them; drain them; set them on a long dish; garnish the openings in their backs with butter à la Maître-d’Hôtel and border the dish with grooved slices of lemon.

1017—MOUSSELINES DE MERLAN

For the preparation of the _mousseline_ forcemeat, refer to No. 195. The moulding and poaching of these _mousselines_ are the same as for salmon _mousselines_, and the preparations suited to the latter may likewise be applied to mousselines de merlans. (See Mousselines de Saumon, Nos. 797 to 799.)

1018—FILETS DE MERLAN AU GRATIN

Raise the fillets from some whitings, and leave the bones quite clean. Lay them on a buttered dish besprinkled with chopped shallots, the bottom of which should have been covered with a few tablespoonfuls of _gratin_ sauce. Surround the fillets with slices of raw mushrooms; set two small, cooked mushrooms upon each fillet; pour a few tablespoonfuls of white wine into the dish, and cover the whole with gratin sauce.

Sprinkle with fine raspings and melted butter, and put the dish in a sufficiently fierce oven to (1) reduce the sauce; (2) allow the _gratin_ to form; and (3) cook the fillets at the same moment of time. In respect of this operation, refer to Complete Gratin, No. 269.

When taking the dish from the oven, sprinkle a little chopped parsley and a few drops of lemon juice over it.

N.B.—If the whiting be treated whole, the procedure remains the same.

1019—PAUPIETTES DE MERLAN AU GRATIN

Raise some fillets of whiting; coat them with a fish forcemeat combined with fine herbs, and roll them into scrolls. Set these rolled fillets on a round, buttered _gratin_ dish sprinkled with chopped shallots, the bottom of which should have been covered with _gratin_ sauce.

Surround them with a border of sliced, raw mushrooms; place a small, cooked mushroom on each fillet, and proceed for the rest of the operation exactly as explained under “Filets de Merlan au Gratin.”

1020—MERLAN EN LORGNETTE AU GRATIN

Separate the fillets from the bones, proceeding from the tail to the head, and completely remove the spine near the head. Cover the fillets with fish forcemeat “aux fines herbes,” and roll them into scrolls with their tail-ends inside.

Set them on a round dish sprinkled with chopped shallots and covered with _gratin_ sauce, placing them side by side, all round the dish, with the whitings’ heads in the centre; and proceed for the rest of the operation as explained under No. 1018.

N.B.—Whitings prepared in this way may be treated with white wine, Dieppoise, Bercy, fried, &c.

1021—FILETS DE MERLAN ORLY

Raise the fillets and proceed as for “Filets de Soles Olga,” No. 893.

1022—MERLAN SUR LE PLAT

Proceed as for “Sole sur le Plat,” No. 837.

1023—MERLAN A LA RICHELIEU

Prepare six “Merlans à l’anglaise,” No. 1014. Lay thereon a few slices of truffle. Or dish them simply on their sides; garnish their top surfaces with the butter prescribed above, and put a row of truffle slices on the butter.

1024—MORUE AND SALTED COD (Morue et Cabillaud Salé)

Salted cod bought in England has generally been fished somewhere along the English coast, and is, as a rule, of recent salting. It has not the peculiar flavour of the Icelandic _morue_, or that of the Newfoundland specimens, and it does not lend itself to such a large variety of preparations as these two.

At the end of each of the following recipes, I indicate the kind of cod to which the procedure may be applied.

_Morue_, especially the Newfoundland kind, should be set to soak at least twelve hours before being used, and the water during that time should be frequently changed.

When about to cook it, suppress its fins, and cut it up in a way befitting the selected mode of preparation.

Allow four oz. gross of the fish for each person.

1024a—SALTED COD AND MORUE A L’ANGLAISE

Put the fish into cold water; set to boil, and as soon as this point is reached, leave the fish to poach on the side of the fire for fifteen minutes.

Drain, skin, dish on a napkin, and serve, separately, a timbale of parsnips and an egg-sauce à l’Écossaise.

Both kinds of cod may be used for this dish.

1025—MORUE A LA BÉNÉDICTINE

Poach one and one-half lbs. of _morue_ as above; drain it and cut into small pieces, cleared of all skin and bone. Pound it quickly while it is still hot, and add to it half its weight of potatoes cooked as for a purée, drained, and dried in the oven for a few minutes. When the whole has been reduced to a fine paste, add one-sixth pint of oil, and one-quarter pint of boiled milk. The oil and the milk should be added little by little, and the paste should be more mellow than stiff.

Serve in a buttered _gratin_ dish; arrange the preparation in the form of a dome; sprinkle with melted butter, and set to colour in the oven.

Icelandic and Newfoundland _morue_.

1026—MORUE AU BEURRE NOIR OU AU BEURRE NOISETTE

Cut the _morue_ into squares or rectangles; roll these into _paupiettes_ or scrolls, and bind these with a piece of string. Poach them in the usual way; drain them; scrape their skins, and dish them. Sprinkle with _concassed_ parsley; add lemon juice, and cover with brown or lightly-browned butter. Either kind of cod may be used.

1027—BRANDADE DE MORUE

Cut one lb. of _morue_ into pieces, and poach these for eight minutes. The eight minutes should be counted from the time the water begins to boil.

Drain on a sieve, and clear the pieces of all skin and bones. Heat in a sautépan one-sixth pint of oil until the latter smokes; throw the cleaned pieces of _morue_ into the oil; add a piece of crushed garlic the size of a haricot-bean, and stir over a brisk fire with a wooden spoon until the _morue_ is reduced to shreds.

Then take the saucepan off the fire, and, without ceasing to stir the paste, add thereto, little by little, as for a mayonnaise, about one-half pint of oil. When the paste begins to stiffen through the addition of the oil, now and again add a tablespoonful of milk. For the amount of _morue_ used, one-quarter pint of boiling milk should thus be added by degrees.

When the Brandade is finished, it should have the consistence of an ordinary potato purée. When about to serve, taste the preparation, and rectify its seasoning.

Dish the Brandade in a hot timbale, building it up in the shape of a pyramid, and set thereon a crown of bread-crumb triangles fried in butter just before dishing up.

N.B.—The triangles of fried bread may, with advantage, be replaced by lozenges made from puff-paste, which are baked without colouration. For the Brandade use only well-soaked Icelandic or Newfoundland _morue_.

1028—BRANDADE DE MORUE A LA CRÈME

Follow the directions given above, but instead of oil and milk, use two-thirds pint of cream, which should be added to the _morue_ paste by spoonfuls.

1029—MORUE A LA CRÉOLE

Finely mince an onion, and cook it gently in butter until it is of a nice golden colour. Spread it on the bottom of a little oval earthenware dish, and set three tomatoes prepared à la Provençale (No. 2268) upon it.

Poach one lb. of _morue_; drain it as soon as ready, and flake it while clearing it of all skin and bones. Lay this flaked _morue_ on the slices of tomato; cover it with three mild capsicums, split and broiled; sprinkle the whole with a few drops of lemon juice and one oz. of lightly-browned butter, and put the dish in the oven for a few minutes. Serve very hot.

Icelandic or Newfoundland _morue_ may be used.

1030—CABILLAUD SALE, OR MORUE A LA HOLLANDAISE

Proceed exactly as for “Sole à la Hollandaise” (No. 829). Both kinds suit this preparation.

1031—CABILLAUD SALE, OR MORUE A L’INDIENNE

Poach one lb. of salted cod or _morue_, and flake it while clearing it of all skin and bones. Mix this flaked fish with two-thirds pint of Indienne sauce, and dish it in a hot timbale.

Serve some rice à l’Indienne separately.

Both kinds of fish are suited to this dish.

1032—MORUE A LA LYONNAISE

Poach one lb. of _morue_, and flake it as explained above. Finely mince a medium-sized onion, and toss it in butter. Also toss three medium-sized potatoes cut into roundels. Heat one oz. of butter and two tablespoonfuls of oil in a frying-pan; put therein the flaked _morue_ and the potatoes, and toss the whole over a brisk fire for a few minutes.

When about to dish up, add a few drops of vinegar.

Dish in a hot timbale, and sprinkle the _morue_ with a pinch of chopped parsley. Use either the Icelandic or the Newfoundland fish for this preparation.

1033—SOUFFLÉ DE MORUE

Finely pound one-quarter lb. of freshly poached and flaked _morue_, and add thereto, little by little, two tablespoonfuls of hot and very thick Béchamel sauce. When the paste is very smooth, season it; put into a saucepan, heat it, and add the yolks of three eggs, and four whites beaten to a stiff froth.

Put the whole into a buttered soufflé-saucepan, and cook after the manner of an ordinary soufflé. Take either Icelandic or Newfoundland _morue_ for this dish.

1034—CHAR (Ombre-Chevalier)

The char is a fish of the salmon family, which is culinarily treated in exactly the same way as the trout. When it is large, the recipes given for salmon trout may be adapted to it, but it is mostly used small—that is to say, from five inches to ten inches long. The fishing of char is restricted chiefly to lake countries, such as Scotland and Switzerland, and it is only in season during two months of the year. Moreover, as this fish loses much of its quality in transit, its scarcity on the market will be easily understood. The lake of Zug, in Switzerland, supplies the most famous specimens, which are called Rothel by the people of the locality. The delicacy of the fish is remarkable, and in this it may vie even with the best river trout.

The char of the Scotch lakes may be treated after the same recipes as the Swiss specimens, but they are more often used in the preparation of potted char, the recipe for which is as follows:—

1035—POTTED CHAR

Cook the chars in a fine _mirepoix_ with white wine, exactly after the manner of trout. When the fish are cooked, leave them to cool completely in their cooking-liquor. Drain them; skin them; separate their fillets, and thoroughly bone them. Set the fillets in a special earthenware pot; entirely cover them with clarified butter, and put them in a moderate oven for one quarter of an hour.

Leave them to cool until the next day, and add sufficient clarified butter to cover them with a layer one-third inch thick.

If Potted Char be left in the cool, it will keep for some considerable time.

RED MULLETS (ROUGETS)

Red mullet, especially the Mediterranean rock kind, is one of the greatest fish delicacies known; and the surname “Sea Woodcock,” which gourmets sometimes give it, is quite justified, not only by its quality, but by the fact that, except for its gills, it is generally left whole, and not even emptied.

It is best grilled.

1035a—GRILLED RED MULLET

Carefully wipe the mullet; _cisel_ it on either side to a depth in proportion to the thickness of its flesh and at closer intervals the thicker the latter is, in order to facilitate the cooking; season it with salt and pepper; sprinkle it with a little oil and a few drops of lemon juice; spread a few slices of lemon and a few parsley stalks upon and beneath it; and let it _marinade_ for an hour or two, turning it over frequently the while.

Twenty minutes before serving, set the red mullet on a double fish grill, and cook it over a rather fierce fire, sprinkling it often the while with its _marinade_. Dish and serve it as soon as it is ready, and serve a little half-melted maître-d’hôtel butter separately.

1035b—ROUGET A LA BORDELAISE

Grill or _sauté_ the red mullet. At the same time serve a sauce Bordelaise Bonnefoy (No. 67).

1035c—ROUGET AU FENOUIL

_Cisel_ and _marinade_ the red mullet as directed under No. 1035a, and add a certain quantity of chopped fennel to the aromatics. Twenty minutes before serving, add two oz. of roughly-chopped raw pork fat and a little parsley to the _marinade_; wrap the red mullets in strong, oiled paper, together with its _marinade_, grill it gently, and serve it as it stands.

1035d—ROUGET A LA NIÇOISE

Grill it as directed above, and serve it with the garnish given under “Sole à la Niçoise.”

1035e—ROUGET EN PAPILLOTE

Grill and wrap it in strong, oiled paper between two layers of somewhat thick Duxelle sauce. When about to serve, put the _papillote_ for five minutes in the oven, that it may be _souffléd_.

1036—WHITEBAIT

Thames whitebait, which has many points in common with the “Nonat” of the Mediterranean, is one of the riddles of ichthyology; for, while it is generally admitted that it is the fry of one of the many species of fish, its real parentage is quite unknown.

At dinners in London it usually stands as a second fish-course, and, fried after the customary manner, it constitutes a dish the delicacy of which is incomparable. Whitebait, like the nonat, are extremely fragile, and ought to be cooked as soon as they are caught. They are always served fried, and the frying-medium used in their preparation should be fresh, abundant, and just smoking when the fish are plunged into it. Previous to this operation, however, the whitebait ought to be thoroughly dredged with flour and placed in a special sieve or frying basket, either of which should be well shaken, in order to rid the fish of any superfluous flour.

They are then plunged into the smoking frying-medium, in small quantities at a time, and one minute’s stay therein suffices to render them sufficiently crisp.

Draining is the next operation, effected upon a spread piece of linen, that the fish may be easily seasoned with table-salt and cayenne, mixed. This done, the whitebait are dished upon a napkin and sent to the table with very green, fried parsley.

VARIOUS PREPARATIONS OF FISH

1037—MATELOTE AU VIN ROUGE

The fish used for the Matelote are eel, carp, tench, bream, perch, &c.

It may be prepared from one or many kinds of fish.

Put the fish, cut into sections, into a sautépan. For two lbs. of it, add one minced onion, one faggot, two cloves of garlic, one pint of red wine, a pinch of salt, and another of pepper or four peppercorns.

Set to boil; add three tablespoonfuls of heated and burnt brandy; cover the sautépan, and complete the cooking of the fish.

This done, transfer the pieces to another saucepan; strain the cooking-liquor, reduce it by a third, and thicken it with _manied_ butter (consisting of one and one-half oz. of butter and one tablespoonful of flour), cut into small pieces.

When the leason has been properly effected, pour the resulting sauce over the pieces of fish; heat, and dish in a timbale.

1038—MATELOTE AU VIN BLANC

Prepare the fish as above, but use white wine instead of red, and burn the brandy as before. When the pieces of fish are cooked, transfer them to another saucepan with small onions, previously cooked in butter, and small, cooked mushrooms. Strain the cooking-liquor, reduce it to a little less than half, thicken it with fish velouté, and finish with one oz. of butter.

Pour this sauce over the fish and the garnish; dish the whole in a timbale or a deep dish, and surround with crayfish, cooked in _court-bouillon_, and little crusts in the shape of hearts, fried in butter.

1039—BOUILLABAISSE A LA MARSEILLAISE

The fish for Bouillabaisse are rascasse, chapon, dory, whiting, fiélas, boudreuil, spiny lobster, red mullet, gurnet, &c.

Cut the larger fish into slices; leave the smaller ones whole, and with the exception of the whiting and the red mullet, which cook more speedily than the others, put them all into a saucepan.

For two lbs. of fish, add one small onion, the chopped white of one leek, one small, peeled, pressed and chopped tomato, two crushed cloves of garlic, a large pinch of _concassed_ parsley, a pinch of powdered saffron, a bit of bay, a little savory and fennel, and two tablespoonfuls of oil.

Moisten the fish with just enough cold water to cover it, and season with one-third oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper per quart of water.

Set to boil, and cook over a brisk fire. At the end of eight minutes add the pieces of whiting and red mullet, and leave to cook for a further seven minutes.

Pour the liquor of the bouillabaisse over some slices of household bread lying on the bottom of a deep dish; set the fish on another dish with the sections of spiny lobster all round, and serve.

1040—QUENELLES DE BROCHET A LA LYONNAISE

Pound separately one lb. of the meat of pike, cleared of all skin and bones, and one lb. of the fat of kidney of beef, very dry, cleaned, and cut into small pieces. If desired, half of the weight of the fat of kidney of beef may be replaced by one-half lb. of beef marrow.

Put the pounded meat of the pike and the kidney fat on separate plates. Now pound one lb. of frangipan Panada (No. 192) and add thereto, little by little, the white of four little eggs. Put the pike meat and the fat back into the mortar, and finely pound the whole until a fine, smooth paste is obtained. Rub the latter through a sieve; put the resulting purée into a basin, and work it well with a wooden spoon in order to smooth it.

With this forcemeat mould some quenelles with a spoon, and poach them in salted water.

If these quenelles are to be served with an ordinary fish sauce, put them into it as soon as they are poached and drained, and simmer them in it for ten minutes that they may swell.

If the sauce intended for them is to be thickened with egg-yolks, and buttered at the last moment, put them into a saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of _fumet_, and simmer them as directed in the case of an ordinary fish sauce, taking care to keep the saucepan well covered that the concentrated steam may assist the swelling of the quenelles. In this case they are added to the sauce at the last moment.

N.B.—Slices of truffle may always be added to the sauce. The quenelles are dished either in a silver timbale, in a shallow timbale-crust, or in a fine vol-au-vent crust, in accordance with the arrangement of the menu.

1041—FISH CAKES

Fish cakes or balls, which are greatly appreciated in both England and America, are made from any boiled fish. Salted cod, however, is best suited to their preparation, and is therefore used much more often than other kinds of fish.

Flake one lb. of cooked cod, and clear it of all skin and bones; pound it with one-half lb. of freshly-cooked, floury potatoes, two tablespoonfuls of reduced Béchamel sauce, and two whole eggs. Season with salt and pepper. When the paste has been well beaten and is smooth, take it out of the mortar and divide it into portions weighing about two oz. Roll these portions into balls upon a flour-dusted mixing-board, flatten them out to the shape of thick quoits, and treat them _à l’anglaise_.

Fry them at the last moment in very hot fat, and dish them on a napkin with fried parsley all round.

1042—WATERZOI

In order to prepare Waterzoi, it is best, when possible, to have live fish at one’s disposal, not only because these are better able to resist the cooking process, but also owing to the fact that they are richer in gelatine in the live state.

The fish more generally used are the eel, the perch, the tench, the carp, the pike, &c.

After having scaled and emptied them, trim them and cut off their heads and tails. Cut the fish into sections; moisten these with just enough cold water to cover them; add a piece of butter, sufficient parsley roots or stalks to produce a decided taste, a few peppercorns, and some salt.

Set to cook on a brisk fire, and take care that the cooking-liquor be reduced and sufficiently thickened when the fish are cooked.

Serve in a timbale or on a dish, and send some slices of bread and butter to the table at the same time.

CHAPTER XV

RELEVÉS AND ENTRÉES

The difference between Relevés and Entrées needs only to be examined very superficially in order for it to be seen how entirely the classification hangs on the question of bulk. Indeed, with very few exceptions, the same alimentary products—butcher’s meat, fish, poultry, and game—may be used with perfect propriety in the preparation of either Relevés or Entrées. And if the mode of preparation and the nature of the garnishing ingredients are sometimes dissimilar, it is owing to that difference in bulk referred to above, on account of which the Relevés, being more voluminous, are usually braised, _poëled_, poached, or roasted; while the Entrées, consisting of smaller pieces, are chiefly _sautéd_, poached, or grilled.

In the menus of old-fashioned dinners à la Française, the line of demarcation between Relevés and Entrées was far more clearly defined, the latter being generally twice, if not thrice, as numerous as the former. The first service of a dinner for twenty people, for instance, comprised eight or twelve Entrées and four soups, all of which were set on the dining-table before the admission of the diners. As soon as the soups were served, the Relevés, to the number of four, two of which consisted of fish, took the place of the soups on the table; they _relieved_ the soups; hence their name, which now, of course, is quite meaningless.

The Russian method of serving greatly simplified the practice just described. Nowadays a dinner rarely consists of more than two soups, two Relevés (one of which is fish), and two or three Entrées for the first service. Very often the fish Relevé, instead of being a large piece of fish, only consists of fillets of sole, of chicken-turbots, &c., or timbales, which are real entrées; while the Relevés (consisting of large pieces of butcher’s meat or game), instead of being served as common sense would dictate, _i.e._, after the fish Relevé, when the diner’s appetite is still keen, are placed, according to English custom, after the Entrées.

Thus, as the two above examples show, the parts played by the Relevés and Entrées respectively are very far from being clearly defined; and I therefore resolved to treat of them both in the same chapter, and to append a few grills (usually accompanied by various sauces and garnishes), which are really only luncheon-roasts. The indications given concerning the class to which the recipes belong will suffice to avoid confusion.

RELEVÉS AND ENTRÉES OF BUTCHER’S MEAT

1043—FILLET OF BEEF (Relevé)

Fillet of beef for a Relevé may consist either of the whole piece, trimmed, studded, or larded, or a more or less large piece cut from the whole, and treated after one of the methods suited to the whole fillet. The fillet may be braised, _poëled_, or roasted; but the last two modes of preparation suit it best, as it is generally preferred underdone and somewhat red towards the centre.

The garnishes for a Relevé of fillet of beef are as numerous as they are varied; and, as they are applicable not only to fillet of beef but to all Relevés of butcher’s meat, I give them here in preference, since fillet of beef may be considered the choicest of Relevés.

1044—FILETS DE BŒUF ANDALOUSE

Having removed all the connective tissue from the fillet, lard it with thin strips of bacon, and _poële_ or roast it. Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it with:—(1) Some grilled half-capsicums, filled with rice à la grecque (No. 2253); (2) roundels of egg-plant, two inches in diameter and one inch thick, hollowed out to form cases, fried in oil, and garnished with _concassed_ tomatoes tossed in oil. Arrange the half-capsicums and the egg-plant alternately round the fillet, and place a grilled _chipolata_ sausage between each.

_Sauce to be sent separately._—The gravy taken from the _poëling_-stock, strained, cleared of all grease, and thickened.

1045—FILET DE BŒUF BOUQUETIERE

Having larded the fillet and _poëled_ or roasted it, set it on a long dish and surround it with:—(1) Small heaps of carrots and turnips, turned by means of a small grooved spoon, and cooked in consommé; (2) small heaps of little potatoes turned to the shape of olives and cooked in butter; (3) small heaps of peas and of French beans, cut into lozenges and cohered with butter; (4) five bunches of cauliflower.

Arrange these different products in such wise as to vary their colours and throw them into relief.

Serve the gravy of the fillet separately, after having cleared it of all grease and strained it.

1046—FILET DE BŒUF CAMARGO

Trim the fillet; suppress the long muscle lying on its thicker side (Fr. chaîne), and open the meat lengthwise from the same side. Withdraw the meat from the inside of the fillet so as to leave a wall of meat only one-half inch thick all round. Finely chop the withdrawn meat and combine with it, per lb., little by little, from four to five tablespoonfuls of cream and four oz. of fresh foie gras. Season with salt and pepper, rectify the consistence of the paste, and add thereto, per lb., two oz. of chopped truffles.

Fill the hollow fillet with this forcemeat, thereby returning it to its original shape, and stud its top surface with pointed pieces of truffle one inch long by one-quarter inch wide, stuck into the meat aslant. In order to facilitate this operation, bore the meat, before the insertion of the pieces of truffles, by means of a small knife.

Now cover the fillet with slices of bacon and string it laterally, leaving a space of one inch between each strand.

_Poële_ the meat carefully, and take care that the forcemeat inside be well, but not over-done. This may be ascertained by thrusting a braiding needle into the thickest part of the fillet, as soon as the meat seems resisting and elastic to the touch. If the needle withdraws clean, the fillet is ready.

Now glaze it, after having cut away the string and removed the slices of bacon; dish it, and surround it with the following garnish:—Small tartlet-crusts garnished by means of noodles with cream; a slice of foie gras stamped out with a round cutter and tossed in butter, upon the noodles; and a fine slice of truffle on the foie gras.

_Sauce to be sent to the table separately._—The reduced _poëling_-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease, and added to a Périgueux sauce.

1047—FILET DE BŒUF CHÂTELAINE

Lard the fillet, _poële_ it, and glaze it just before dishing up. Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish:—(1) Medium-sized artichoke-bottoms garnished with thick Soubise; (2) fine, peeled chestnuts cooked in the _poëling_-liquor; (3) small heaps of lightly browned potatoes, cooked in butter at the last moment.

_Sauce to be sent separately._—The reduced _poëling_-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease and added to a Madeira sauce.

1048—FILET DE BŒUF CLAMART

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish and surround it with:—(1) Little tartlet-crusts garnished with peas, prepared à la Française (No. 2193), combined with the _ciseled_ lettuce used in their cooking-process, and cohered with butter; (2) small quoits of “Pommes Macaire” (No. 2228). Arrange the tartlet-crusts and the quoits alternately.

_Sauce to be sent separately._—The gravy slightly thickened.

1049—FILET DE BŒUF DAUPHINE

Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.

Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish of potato _croquettes_ à la Dauphine, moulded to the shape of corks, and fried just before dishing up.

_Sauce to be sent separately._—Pale half-glaze with Madeira.

1050—FILET DE BŒUF DUBARRY

Lard the fillet with bacon, and roast it.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with small heaps of cauliflower moulded to the shape of balls, coated with Mornay sauce, besprinkled with grated cheese, and put in the oven for the _gratin_ to form just in time for the dishing up.

Send a thickened gravy to the table separately.

1051—FILET DE BŒUF DUCHESSE

Either roast or _poële_ the larded fillet. If it be _poëled_, glaze it at the last moment.

Set it on a long dish and surround it with potatoes à la Duchesse (the shape of which may be varied according to fancy), lightly browned and coloured in the oven for a few minutes before the dishing.

_Sauce to be sent separately._—Half-glaze with Madeira.

1052—FILET DE BŒUF FINANCIÈRE

_Poële_ the larded fillet.

Glaze it at the last moment and set it on a long dish.

Surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) quenelles of ordinary forcemeat; (2) grooved and cooked button-mushroom heads; (3) cocks’ combs and kidneys; (4) turned and _blanched_ olives. Each garnish should be placed on the dish in distinct heaps.

Cover the garnish with a little financière sauce, and send the same sauce separately.

1053—FILET DE BŒUF GASTRONOME

Insert truffles, cut to the shape of ordinary larding-bacon, into the fillet, and set the latter to _marinade_ for four or five hours in one-quarter pint of Madeira.

This done, thoroughly wipe it; cover it with slices of bacon, and braise it in Madeira. When about to serve it, remove the slices of bacon; glaze it slightly, and set it on a long dish.

Surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) large and thick slices of truffle, cooked in a fine _mirepoix_ with champagne; (2) fine chestnuts cooked in consommé and glazed; (3) fine cocks’ kidneys, rolled in pale, thin meat-glaze; (4) noodles tossed in butter. These different garnishes should be arranged in alternate heaps, and connected by means of medium-sized truffles cooked in Madeira.

_Sauce to be sent separately._—Half-glaze combined with the cooking-liquor of the truffles, strained through linen and reduced to two-thirds.

1054—FILET DE BŒUF GODARD

Lard the fillet with alternate strips of bacon and salted tongue, and _poële_ it. Glaze it a few minutes before serving; set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) quenelles of ordinary forcemeat with chopped mushrooms and truffles added thereto, moulded by means of a coffee-spoon, and poached just before dishing up; (2) turned and cooked button-mushroom heads; (3) glazed lamb sweet-breads; (4) cocks’ combs and kidneys; (5) truffles fashioned like olives.

Slightly coat these garnishes, which should be arranged in heaps, with sauce; finish the dish with four oval quenelles decked with tongue and truffle, and place one of these at either end and side of the dish.

_Sauce to be sent separately._—A Godard sauce combined with the cooking-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease and reduced.

1055—FILET DE BŒUF HONGROISE

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish and surround it with a garnish consisting of medium-sized onions, cooked in white consommé, and glazed in butter at the last minute.

_Sauce to be sent separately._—Thin Soubise with paprika.

1056—FILET DE BŒUF JAPONAISE

Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.

Glaze it just before dishing; set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) small _croustades_ cooked in grooved brioche-moulds and garnished with Japanese artichokes cohered by means of velouté; (2) potato _croquettes_ moulded to the shape of eggs and fried just before dishing up. Arrange the _croustades_ and the _croquettes_ alternately.

Send the gravy of the fillet, strained and cleared of all grease, to the table separately.

1057—FILET DE BŒUF JARDINIÈRE

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish and surround it with the following garnishes, which should be arranged in distinct heaps in such wise as to alternate their colours:—Carrots and turnips, raised by means of a grooved spoon-cutter and cooked separately in consommé; peas, French beans in lozenge-form and small flageolets, each of which vegetables should be cooked in a manner in keeping with its nature, and separately cohered with butter; portions of freshly-cooked cauliflower, kept very white and of tight growth.

Send some Hollandaise sauce for the cauliflower, and some clear gravy, to the table, separately.

1058—FILET DE BŒUF LORETTE

Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.

Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish as follows:—(1) A small pyramid of Lorette potatoes (No. 2226) at either end of the fillet; (2) fine heaps of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, on either side.

Send some _tomatéd_ half-glaze separately.

1059—FILET DE BŒUF MACÉDOINE

Prepare the fillet as directed under “Filet de Bœuf Jardinière.” Set it on a long dish and surround it with a _Macédoine_ garnish. The latter comprises the same ingredients as the “_Jardinière_”; but, instead of their being heaped separately, they are mixed together and cohered by means of butter.

1060—FILET DE BŒUF AU MADÈRE ET AUX CHAMPIGNONS

Lard and _poële_ the fillet.

Glaze it; dish it as before, and surround it with fine mushroom-heads, turned and grooved.

Send to the table, separately, a Madeira sauce finished with the _poëling_-liquor, cleared of all grease and reduced.

1061—FILET DE BŒUF MODERNE

Lard the fillet alternately with bacon and tongue, and _poële_ it.

Glaze it just before dishing; set it on a long dish, and surround it with garnish as follows:—On either side of the fillet lay a row of small “chartreuses,” made in small, hexagonal moulds.

To make these “chartreuses,” butter the moulds and deck the bottom of each with a slice of truffle, big enough to almost entirely cover it. Now line the sides of the moulds with various vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, peas, and French beans; each of which vegetables should be cooked as its nature requires.

Arrange them in such wise as to vary their colours, and spread over the whole a thin layer of rather flimsy forcemeat.

Fill up the moulds with braised cabbage, which should be well pressed with the view of ridding it of all its moisture, and put the chartreuses in a _bain-marie_ ten minutes before dishing the fillet.

At either end of the fillet set some braised half-lettuces, arranging them so that they frame the ends of the fillet in half-circles.

Between the lettuce and the chartreuses set four round quenelles, decorated with salted tongue and poached in time to be ready for the dishing of the meat.

Send to the table, separately, the _poëling_-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease, strained, and slightly thickened with arrowroot.

1062—FILET DE BŒUF MONTMORENCY

Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.

Glaze it just before dishing up, and set it on a long dish.

Send to the table, separately, a Madeira sauce finished with the _poëling_-liquor of the fillet, to which add (per pint of the sauce) three tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly; two tablespoonfuls of finely-grated horse-radish, or the latter finely grated first, and then chopped; thirty moderately-sweetened cherries, set to soak in tepid water seven or eight minutes beforehand, and drained just before being added to the sauce.

1063—FILET DE BŒUF NIVERNAISE

Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.

Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it with garnish as follows:—(1) Heaps of small carrots, shaped like elongated olives, cooked in white consommé and a little butter and sugar, and rolled in their cooking-liquor (reduced to the consistence of syrup), with the view of glazing them.

Send the _poëling_-liquor (cleared of all grease and strained) to the table separately.

1064—FILET DE BŒUF ORIENTALE

Roast the fillet “plain,” _i.e._, without previously larding it.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish, taking care to alternate the ingredients, viz., (1) timbales of rice à la grecque (No. 2253) moulded in buttered _dariole-moulds_, each timbale being placed on a medium-sized half-tomato, seasoned and tossed in butter; (2) _croquettes_ of sweet potatoes, moulded to the shape of corks, and fried just before dishing up.

Send to the table, separately, a highly seasoned tomato sauce.

1065—FILET DE BŒUF PERIGOURDINE

Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.

Glaze it just before dishing up; set it on a long dish, and surround it with medium-sized truffles, freshly cooked in Madeira and fine _mirepoix_, and glazed. Send a Périgueux sauce separately.

1066—FILET DE BŒUF PETIT DUC

Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.

Glaze it in good time; set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish:—(1) crisp, small patties of puff paste garnished with asparagus-heads cohered by means of cream sauce; (2) medium-sized artichoke-bottoms, prepared in the usual way, and garnished with slices of truffle.

Send, separately, a light, meat glaze, combined with four oz. of butter per one-half pint.

1067—FILET DE BŒUF PORTUGAISE

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish, and garnish it as follows:—

1. A row of medium-sized, stuffed tomatoes on either side.

2. At either end a nice heap of potatoes, shaped like long olives, and cooked in butter just before dishing up.

Send a light, Portugaise sauce separately.

1068—FILET DE BŒUF PROVENÇALE

Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.

Glaze it at the last minute; set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following, alternated:—Tomatoes and mushrooms stuffed à la Provençale (Nos. 2266 and 2075).

Send a _tomatéd_ half-glaze sauce, separately.

1069—FILET DE BŒUF RÉGENCE

_Marinade_ the fillet in Rhine wine two or three hours in advance; cover it with a _Matignon_ (No. 227); envelop the fillet and the _Matignon_ in slices of bacon, and set the whole to braise with its _marinade_.

A few minutes before dishing up, remove the slices of bacon and the _Matignon_, and glaze the fillet.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish, which, except for the decorated quenelles, which are left plain, should be arranged in distinct heaps, and slightly coated with sauce:—(1) quenelles of ordinary forcemeat, combined with chopped tongue, moulded by means of a coffeespoon, and poached at the last minute; (2) collops of foie gras tossed in butter; (3) fine cocks’ combs; (4) very white, cooked mushroom-heads, and truffles shaped like large olives.

Send, separately, the braising-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease, strained with pressure, reduced, and added to a half-glaze sauce.

1070—FILET DE BŒUF RENAISSANCE

Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.

Glaze it at the last minute; set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish of early-season vegetables, comprising carrots and turnips, raised by means of a large, round, grooved spoon-cutter, cooked in consommé and glazed; very green peas; small French beans; small faggots of asparagus-heads; portions of cauliflowers, and small potatoes cooked in butter.

Renaissance garnish is, however, subject to no fixed rules, and it may consist of all the available early-season vegetables, small artichoke-bottoms included.

Send a clear gravy separately.

1071—FILET DE BŒUF RICHELIEU

Lard the fillet, and either _poële_ or roast it.

If it be _poëled_, glaze it in good time; set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish, which should be arranged in distinct heaps and in such wise as to contrast its colouring:—(1) Small tomatoes and medium-sized mushrooms, stuffed; (2) small or half-lettuces, braised and well trimmed; (3) potatoes, the size of pigeons’ eggs, cooked in butter and prepared just in time for the dishing up.

Send the cooking-liquor, cleared of all grease, and slightly thickened, separately.

1072—FILET DE BŒUF SAINT-FLORENTIN

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish:—(1) At either end, a heap of _cèpes_, prepared à la Bordelaise at the last minute; (2) _croquettes_ of potatoes à la Saint-Florentin, on either side. These _croquettes_ are prepared from the same potato-paste as “Pommes Duchesse,” but in this case the paste receives a copious addition of chopped tongue. Mould them to the shape of lozenges, and treat them _à l’anglaise_, using for the purpose very fine vermicelli instead of bread-crumbs.

Fry the _croquettes_ just before dishing up.

Send, separately, a Bordelaise sauce with white wine, kept somewhat light.

1073—FILET DE BŒUF SAINT-GERMAIN

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish:—(1) At either end of the fillet a nice heap of glazed carrots, cut to the shape of olives; (2) a heap of very small potatoes, cooked in butter, on either side of the carrots; (3) a row of small timbales of very green peas purée (No. 2196) on either side of the fillet.

1074—FILET DE BŒUF TALLEYRAND

Cut up the necessary number of raw truffles for the garnishing of the fillet. The pieces of truffle should be one inch long and one-quarter inch wide, and so pointed as to enable them to be easily stuck into the meat.

To stick them in, make small incisions in the fillet, and in these set the bits of truffle. _Marinade_ the fillet for three hours in Madeira; wrap it in slices of bacon; string it, and set it to braise with its _marinade_.

This done, remove the slices of bacon; glaze it, and set it on a long dish. Send the following garnish separately:—Poached macaroni, cut into pieces one and one-half inches long, and combined per lb. with three oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan, one and one-half oz. of butter, three oz. of a _julienne_ of truffles, and three oz. of cooked foie gras, cut into large dice.

As an adjunct, send a Périgueux sauce with a fine _julienne_ of truffles instead of the latter chopped.

1075—FILET DE BŒUF FROID (Relevé)

Fillet of beef, when properly dished, makes an excellent cold Relevé.

For this purpose lard it, roast it (keeping it somewhat underdone towards the centre), and, when it is quite cold, trim, and coat it with half-melted jelly.

Then set it either directly upon a dish or upon a cushion of bread or carved rice, which makes the dish more sightly when the garnish is added.

Before setting the fillet on the dish or on the cushion of rice, it is well to cut a slice one-fifth inch thick from the whole of its base; leave this slice under the fillet when dishing; by this means, when the carving is proceeded with, each slice will be found to be neatly trimmed.

Cold fillet of beef allows of every possible cold vegetable garnish.

The vegetables should be cooked with the greatest care and be left to cool naturally.

When they are quite cold, either cohere them by means of jelly, or set them round the fillet in neat heaps, taking care to alternate their shades, and coat them with almost melted aspic.

Finally, between each heap of vegetables lay a little chopped and very clear aspic, and, round the whole, arrange a border consisting of bits of aspic (round, oval, square, lozenge-shaped, &c.) very regularly cut.

I see no reason for devoting any further space to this subject. What has been said should, I think, suffice to show how varied and numerous are the possible ways of dishing cold fillet of beef, the minute details of which may, with advantage, be left to the ingenuity of the operator.

FILLET OF BEEF FOR ENTRÉES

1076—CHÂTEAUBRIAND, FILLET STEAK, TOURNEDOS

By _fillet_ steaks are understood those pieces of meat cut laterally from the thickest part of the fillet of beef.

They ought to be about one and one-half inches thick, and weigh from six to seven oz. Tournedos are half-fillets in respect of their weight, and might well be called the “kernels” of the fillet of beef. The usual thickness of a tournedos is about one and one-quarter inches, and they should be cut to a nice, round shape. With the object of preserving their shape, they may be tied round with string.

Châteaubriand is also procured from the centre of fillet of beef, and its weight is often twice, thrice, and sometimes more than thrice as much as that of the ordinary fillet steaks.

As a rule, especially when grilled, it constitutes a special roast for luncheons; when it is cooked in the saucepan, _i.e._, _sautéd_, it is more often served as a Relevé.

The same garnishes suit fillet, Châteaubriands, and tournedos, the only necessary modifications being in respect of size and arrangement, which should be subject to the size of the piece of meat.

The garnishes detailed hereafter are for the tournedos, which supply the greatest number of the dishes prepared from the three different cuts of fillet. If a fillet steak be prepared after one of the following recipes, the garnish should be made a little stronger, and its constituents modified in the dishing, neither of which changes need in any way alter the formula.

The same holds with regard to a Châteaubriand. Thus, for example, if it be required to prepare a fillet steak or a Châteaubriand, after the recipe “Tournedos à l’Algérienne,” the number of _croquettes_ and tomatoes should be half as much again, and they should be arranged alternately round the meat, instead of the latter being placed on the _croquettes_, as in the case of the tournedos.

If the fillets are to be treated “à l’Alsacienne,” after the recipe for tournedos, the sauerkraut should be dished in a timbale instead of in tartlet-crusts, &c.

All that is needed, therefore, is a change in the method of arrangement, and this can be decided upon at a glance, without necessarily interfering with the principle of the recipe.

It should be borne in mind that nearly all the garnishes given under fillet of beef, served whole, may be applied to Châteaubriands, fillet steak, and tournedos, provided they be made in proportion to the size of the different pieces. I see no need, therefore, to repeat these vegetable recipes in so far as they relate to the various cuts of fillet of beef.

It is only necessary to add that for the fillet of beef, as well as for tournedos, noisettes, &c., a large number of plain vegetable garnishes may be used, the details of which I prefer to omit for fear of unduly lengthening this work.

Whole fillets, fillet steak, and tournedos may thus be served with garnishes of braised celery, tuberous fennel, cardoons with gravy, chow-chow and endives, braised lettuce, various purées, &c., and, generally, with all the vegetable preparations given in Chapter XVII.

Important Remarks relative to the Sauces suited to Entrées of Butcher’s Meat, Garnished with Vegetables

The derivative sauces of the Espagnole are not, as a rule, suited to entrées garnished with vegetables. Thickened gravy is better.

The finest adjunct, however, is meat-glaze, which should receive an addition of four oz. of butter per pint, and should be slightly acidulated by means of a few drops of lemon juice. This glaze ought to be so light as not to impaste the vegetables.

Such vegetables as asparagus-heads, peas, French beans, _macédoines_, &c., have a disintegrating action upon the sauces, and this is owing either to their natural moisture or to their leason. As a result of this action the preparation has an unsightly appearance when served upon the diner’s plate.

With Châteaubriand sauce (No. 71) or buttered meat-glaze this objection does not obtain, seeing that this sauce does not decompose, but combines admirably with the garnish, and lends the latter a certain noticeable mellowness.

I therefore emphasise this point, viz., that the derivative sauces of the Espagnole and tomato sauces should be exclusively used with such preparations garnished with truffles, cock’s combs and kidneys, quenelles and mushrooms, as “la Financière,” “la Godard,” &c.

1077—TOURNEDOS ALGÉRIENNE

Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.

Arrange them in the form of a crown on a round dish, and set a _croquette_ of sweet potato, moulded to a round shape, upon each.

Around the whole lay some small, emptied, and seasoned half-tomatoes, stewed in oil.

1078—TOURNEDOS ALSACIENNE

Season and grill the tournedos.

There should have been prepared in advance as many small tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos.

Garnish these tartlets with well-drained, braised sauerkraut, and set on each a roundel of the lean of ham, stamped out with an even cutter. Arrange them in the form of a crown on a dish, and set a tournedos upon each tartlet.

1079—TOURNEDOS ARLÉSIENNE

Fry the tournedos in butter and oil.

When about to serve, set the tournedos on a dish, and surround them with fried roundels of egg-plant and tossed tomatoes, alternating the two garnishes, and placing roundels of fried onions on the tournedos.

1080—TOURNEDOS BALTIMORE

Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.

Set them in the form of a crown on small tartlets garnished by means of maize with cream.

Upon each tournedos set a roundel of tomato, seasoned and tossed in butter, and a smaller slice of green capsicum, also tossed in butter, on each roundel of tomato.

Accompanying sauce: a Châteaubriand (No. 71).

1081—TOURNEDOS BÉARNAISE

Season the tournedos, and grill them.

Set them on round crusts, half an inch thick, fried in clarified butter; slightly coat the surface of the tournedos with meat-glaze, and surround them with a thread of Béarnaise sauce (No. 62).

In the centre arrange a heap of small potatoes cooked in butter and kept very soft, and sprinkle thereon a pinch of chopped parsley.

N.B.—The tournedos may be simply coated with glaze and the Béarnaise sauce served separately.

1082—TOURNEDOS BELLE-HÉLÈNE

Prepare as many small croquettes of asparagus-tops, shaped like quoits, as there are tournedos, and fry them while the latter are being cooked. Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.

Arrange them, in the form of a crown, on a dish; place a _croquette_ on each tournedos, and a large, glazed slice of truffle on each _croquette_.

1083—TOURNEDOS BERCY

Grill the tournedos, and coat them lightly with pale meat-glaze.

Dish them in the form of a crown, and serve a half-melted “Beurre à la Bercy” (No. 139) separately.

1084—TOURNEDOS BORDELAISE

Grill the tournedos, and dish them in the form of a crown.

Set a large slice of poached marrow on each, and serve a Bordelaise sauce (No. 32) separately.

1085—TOURNEDOS BRABANÇONNE

Prepare as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos.

Garnish them with very small parboiled Brussels sprouts, stewed in butter; cover these with Mornay sauce, and set to glaze a few moments before dishing.

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter; set them on the prepared tartlets of sprouts, and surround with a border of small “pommes de terre fondantes” (No. 2214).

1086—TOURNEDOS CASTILLANE

Prepare (1) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) peeled, pressed, and seasoned tomatoes, cooked in butter; these should be in the proportion of one tablespoonful per tartlet; (3) rings of onion, fried in oil as for “Tournedos à l’Arlésienne”; (4) a garnish of one tablespoonful of small French beans, cohered with butter, per tartlet.

Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown on fried crusts.

Place a tartlet, garnished with a _fondue_ of tomatoes, on each tournedos; all round arrange a border of the fried roundels of onion, and serve the French beans, either in the middle of the dish or separately in a timbale.

1087—TOURNEDOS CENDRILLON

Prepare (1) as many fine artichoke-bottoms as there are tournedos; (2) a Soubise purée, combined with chopped truffles, and well buttered.

A few moments before the tournedos are ready, garnish the artichoke-bottoms with the Soubise, and set them to glaze in a fierce oven.

Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and set them on the artichoke-bottoms, which should be arranged in a circle round the dish.

1088—TOURNEDOS AUX CHAMPIGNONS

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown; drain the butter from the sautépan; swill the latter with some mushroom cooking-liquor, and add thereto a proportional quantity of mushroom sauce. Set to boil for a few minutes, and pour the sauce, with the mushrooms, in the midst of the circle of tournedos.

1089—TOURNEDOS CHASSEUR

Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown.

Drain the butter away; swill the sautépan with white wine, and add to this a quantity of Chasseur sauce, which should be in proportion to the number of tournedos.

Set to boil for a moment or two, and pour the sauce over the tournedos.

1090—TOURNEDOS CHORON

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Set them on crusts fried in butter; round the top of each lay a thread of Choron sauce (No. 64), and in the middle of each set a medium-sized artichoke-bottom garnished with peas or asparagus-heads cohered with butter.

All round, arrange a border of potatoes, lightly browned in butter, or heap them in the middle of the crown of tournedos.

N.B.—The sauce may be served separately.

1091—TOURNEDOS COLIGNY

1. With a preparation of sweet potatoes, made after the manner of “Duchesse potatoes” (No. 221), make as many small _galettes_ as there are tournedos, and of the same size as the latter.

Place them on a tray; _gild_ them, and set them to brown in the oven a few minutes before the tournedos are ready.

2. Cut some chow-chows in thick slices, _paysanne fashion_; parboil them; stew them in butter, and add thereto an equal quantity of Provençale sauce.

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, on the _galettes_ of potato, and cover them with the _paysanne_ of chow-chow.

1092—TOURNEDOS A L’ESTRAGON

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown, and on each set either a spray of parboiled tarragon leaves or a lattice composed of the latter. Send separately a thickened gravy with tarragon (No. 41).

1093—TOURNEDOS FAVORITE

Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on crusts stamped out with an indented cutter and fried in butter.

On each tournedos place a round collop of foie gras, a little smaller than the piece of meat; the collop should be seasoned, dredged, and tossed in butter. On each collop of foie gras put a fine, glazed slice of indented truffle. Garnish the centre of the dish with a fine heap of asparagus-tops cohered with butter, or merely set these in small heaps round the tournedos.

Serve separately a timbale of potatoes (of the size of hazel-nuts) cooked in butter, rolled in pale meat-glaze, and slightly sprinkled with chopped parsley.

1094—TOURNEDOS A LA FLORENTINE

Prepare (1) as many _subrics_ of shredded spinach as there are tournedos; make them of the same size as the latter, and cook them at the same time as the tournedos; (2) small, round _croquettes_ of semolina the size of walnuts; these should be fried a few minutes before the tournedos are ready.

Grill the tournedos, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on the spinach _subrics_. The _croquettes_ of semolina may be arranged either in the middle or all round.

1095—TOURNEDOS FORESTIÈRE

Season the tournedos, and _sauté_ them. Set them on crusts fried in butter. Surround them with alternate heaps of noodles and potatoes cut into large dice and tossed in butter.

The potatoes may also be placed in the midst of the tournedos with the noodles all round, or vice versâ.

1096—TOURNEDOS GABRIELLE

Make a preparation from the white meat of a chicken and truffles—both cut into dice and cohered with the necessary quantity of somewhat light “Duchesse-potatoes” paste.

With this preparation make as many small quoit-shaped _croquettes_ as there are tournedos, and fry them while the latter are being cooked.

Season the tournedos, and fry them with oil and butter in equal quantities. Dish them, in the form of a crown, on the prepared _croquettes_, and on each tournedos set a fine roundel of poached marrow and one slice of truffle.

Around the tournedos arrange some very small, braised, and well-trimmed lettuces.

1097—TOURNEDOS HENRI IV

Grill the tournedos, and set them on crusts fried in butter.

Round the edge of each tournedos lay a thread of Béarnaise sauce, and on top of each an artichoke-bottom garnished with very small potatoes (of the size of hazel-nuts) cooked in butter.

N.B.—Instead of putting the sauce on the edge of the tournedos, it may be served separately.

1098—TOURNEDOS JUDIC

Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown on crusts fried in butter. On each tournedos set a crown of truffle slices, with a cock’s kidney in the centre, and surround with braised, trimmed, and quartered lettuces.

1099—TOURNEDOS LAKMÉ

Prepare (1) as many small tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) the same number of grilled, medium-sized mushrooms; (3) a garnish of one tablespoonful of broad beans with cream per tartlet.

Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown, each on a tartlet garnished with broad beans, and set a grilled mushroom on each tournedos.

1100—TOURNEDOS LESDIGUIÈRES

Select onions sufficiently large to admit of placing the tournedos upon them, and let their number equal that of the tournedos.

Trim their tops, and parboil them almost long enough to cook them.

Then, by means of a small knife, cut out their insides so that they may form little cases. Fill the latter, two-thirds full, with spinach prepared with cream, cover the spinach with Mornay sauce, and set them to glaze in a fierce oven a few moments before the tournedos are ready.

Grill the tournedos; dish them in the form of a crown, each on an onion.

1101—TOURNEDOS LILI

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Dish them, in the form of a crown, each on a crust of “Pommes de terre Anna” (No. 2203), stamped out with a round, even cutter of the same size as the tournedos.

On each tournedos set an artichoke-bottom garnished with a roundel of foie gras tossed in butter, and on the foie gras place a slice of truffle. Send, separately, a reduced and well-buttered Périgueux sauce.

1102—TOURNEDOS LUCULLUS

Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on fried crusts. Surround them with a garnish consisting of quenelles of chicken forcemeat, cocks’ combs, truffles, and blanched olives, and coat the whole with half-glaze sauce prepared with truffle essence.

1103—TOURNEDOS MADELEINE

For ten tournedos prepare (1) ten timbales of a purée of haricot beans. For these timbales the purée of haricot beans must be cohered per lb. with one egg and three yolks, finished with two oz. of butter, put into well-buttered _dariole-moulds_, and set these to poach fifteen minutes in advance.

(2) Ten small artichoke-bottoms garnished with reduced Soubise.

Season the tournedos; fry them in butter; dish them, and surround them with the timbales and the artichoke-bottoms, alternating the two garnishes.

1104—TOURNEDOS MARÉCHALE

Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them upon fried crusts. On each of the tournedos set a large, glazed slice of truffle, and surround them with little heaps of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.

1105—TOURNEDOS MARIE-LOUISE

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Dish them, in the form of a crown, upon crusts one-third inch thick, fried in butter. On each tournedos set a small artichoke-bottom, stewed in butter, garnished in the shape of a dome, by means of a piping-bag, with a purée of mushrooms combined with a quart of very reduced Soubise.

1106—TOURNEDOS MASCOTTE

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Have a garnish ready consisting of raw, quartered artichoke-bottoms fried in butter; small, olive-shaped potatoes, also cooked in butter; and olive-shaped truffles.

When about to serve, dish the tournedos in a _cocotte_ with the garnish above described.

Swill the sauté-pan with white wine; add thereto a little gravy; reduce the whole, strain it into the _cocotte_, and put the latter in the front of the oven for a minute or two.

1107—TOURNEDOS MASSÉNA

Season the tournedos and fry them in butter; dish them on fried crusts of the same size, and, in the middle of each tournedos, set a large slice of poached marrow.

Surround with a row of small artichoke-bottoms, garnished with very stiff Béarnaise sauce.

1108—TOURNEDOS A LA MÉNAGÈRE

Put into an earthenware _cocotte_ the following vegetables, which should be in proportion to the number of tournedos:—Haricot butter or “Princesse” cut into small pieces, minced new carrots, very small new onions, and very fresh peas.

All these vegetables should be equally apportioned.

Add salt, butter, and a very little water, for the cooking of the vegetables should be effected mainly by the concentration of steam inside the _cocotte_, which, for the purpose, should therefore be well closed.

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon the vegetables in the _cocotte_ at the last moment.

1109—TOURNEDOS A LA MEXICAINE

Prepare (1) a _fondue_ of peeled and pressed tomatoes, cooked in butter, well reduced, and in the proportion of one tablespoonful per mushroom; (2) as many large grilled mushrooms as there are tournedos, while the latter are being fried; (3) some grilled or fried capsicums in the proportion of half a one per tournedos.

Season the tournedos, and fry them in oil and butter in equal quantities. Dish them each on a mushroom garnished with the _fondue_ of tomatoes, and cover them with the grilled or fried capsicums.

1110—TOURNEDOS MIKADO

Select some fine, rather firm tomatoes—“Mikados,” as they are called—and cut them in two laterally. Squeeze them with the object of expressing all their juice and seeds; season them inside, and grill them so that they may be ready at the same time as the tournedos.

Season the latter and fry them in butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown, each on a grilled half-tomato, and garnish the centre of the dish with Japanese artichokes tossed in butter.

1111—TOURNEDOS MIRABEAU

Grill the tournedos.

Lay eight fine strips of anchovy fillets upon each, crossing the former after the manner of a lattice. Cover the edges with a crown of blanched tarragon leaves, and set a large stoned olive in the middle of each tournedos.

Send some half-melted anchovy butter separately, and allow two-thirds oz. of it for each tournedos.

1112—TOURNEDOS MIREILLE

For ten tournedos, prepare in advance, (1) five _croustades_ from the preparation used for “pommes Duchesse.” To make these _croustades_, fill some buttered _dariole-moulds_ with the preparation referred to, taking care to press it snugly into them. Dip the moulds into tepid water, turn out, treat the mouldings _à l’anglaise_, fry them, hollow out their centres, and keep them hot.

(2) A _fondue_ of tomatoes in the proportion of one heaped tablespoonful per _croustade_.

(3) Five timbales of pilaff rice, made after the same manner as the _croustades_, and kept hot until required for dishing.

Season the tournedos, fry them in butter, and dish them as soon as they are ready.

Surround them with timbales of rice, and the _croustades_ garnished with the fondue, the two garnishes to be alternated.

1113—TOURNEDOS MIRETTE

Prepare as many small timbales of “pommes Mirette” (No. 2234) as there are tournedos.

Turn them out on a dish, sprinkle with grated Parmesan and a few drops of melted butter, and set them to glaze a few minutes before the tournedos are ready. Grill the tournedos, dish them in the form of a crown, and set a timbale of pommes Mirette upon each.

Swill the sauté-pan with white wine; add thereto a little meat-glaze, finish with butter, and pour the resulting sauce over the tournedos.

1114—TOURNEDOS A LA MOELLE

Grill the tournedos and dish them in the form of a crown.

Lay on each of them a large slice of poached marrow, and either surround them with Bordelaise sauce or send the latter to the table separately.

1115—TOURNEDOS MONTGOMERY

Season the tournedos and fry them in butter.

Dish them upon a pancake of spinach (No. 2138), cooked in a tartlet-mould. Deck each tournedos with a rosette of reduced Soubise, made by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, and put a fine slice of truffle in the centre of the rosette.

1116—TOURNEDOS MONTPENSIER

Prepare (1) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) a garnish of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, in the proportion of one heaped tablespoonful per tartlet.

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon fried crusts.

On each of them set a tartlet garnished with asparagus-heads, with a slice of truffle in the middle.

1117—TOURNEDOS AUX MORILLES

Grill the tournedos or fry them in butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown; in the centre arrange a heap of morels tossed in butter, and besprinkle them moderately with chopped parsley.

1118—TOURNEDOS A LA NIÇOISE

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown.

In the centre of each tournedos set a small heap, consisting of one half-tablespoonful of peeled, pressed, and _concassed_ tomatoes, tossed in butter, together with a little crushed garlic and chopped tarragon.

Surround with small heaps of French beans cohered with butter, and other heaps of small potatoes, cooked in butter, alternating the two garnishes.

1119—TOURNEDOS NINON

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon crusts of “pommes Anna,” stamped out with a round fancy-cutter of the same size as the tournedos. On each of the latter set a small patty, garnished with asparagus-heads, cohered with butter and combined with a fine and short _julienne_ of truffles.

1120—TOURNEDOS PARMENTIER

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown.

In the middle of the dish or round it set a fine heap of potatoes, cut into regular cubes of two-thirds inch side, or raised by means of an oval, grooved spoon-cutter. The potatoes should be cooked in butter and kept very soft.

Slightly sprinkle the potatoes with chopped parsley.

1121—TOURNEDOS PERSANE

Prepare as many green capsicums, stuffed with rice moulded to the shape of balls and braised, and as many grilled half-tomatoes as there are tournedos. Also have some fried slices of banana ready, and allow three for each tournedos.

Fry the tournedos in butter and dish them, in the form of a crown, on the grilled half-tomatoes. On each tournedos set a stuffed and braised capsicum.

In the centre of the dish arrange the fried slices of banana in a nice heap. Send separately to the table a Châteaubriand sauce, combined with the reduced braising-liquor of the capsicums.

1122—TOURNEDOS PERUVIENNE

Prepare, after the manner described below, as many oxalis roots as there are tournedos.

Peel the oxalis roots; cut a slice from underneath them, in order to make them stand upright, and hollow them out to form little cases.

Chop up the pulp extracted from them in the last operation, and add it to a preparation of duxelles, made as for stuffed mushrooms.

Fill the oxalis cases with this preparation, shaping it above their edges after the manner of a dome; besprinkle with raspings and oil, and put them in the oven in good time for them to be ready at the same time as the tournedos.

Grill the tournedos, dish them in the form of a crown, and surround them with the oxalis cases.

1123—TOURNEDOS PIÉMONTAISE

Butter as many tartlet-moulds as there are tournedos; fill them with Rizotto à la Piémontaise, combined with white truffles cut into dice, and keep them hot.

Fry the tournedos in clarified butter; dish them, in the form of a crown, on the rizotto tartlets, turned out at the last minute.

1124—TOURNEDOS PROVENÇALE

For ten tournedos, prepare (1) ten medium-sized mushrooms, stuffed with duxelles, slightly flavoured with garlic, and put in the oven in good time; (2) ten half-tomatoes à la Provençale (No. 2266).

Fry the tournedos in equal quantities of butter and oil; dish them, in the form of a crown, on fried crusts, with a half-tomato upon each, and around them set the stuffed mushrooms.

1125—TOURNEDOS RACHEL

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on fried crusts one-third inch thick.

On each tournedos set a small artichoke-bottom, garnished with a large slice of poached marrow.

Send a Bordelaise sauce separately.

1126—TOURNEDOS ROSSINI

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown, upon fried crusts.

On each tournedos set a round slice of foie gras, just a little smaller than the former; the slices should be seasoned, dredged, and fried in butter.

On each slice of foie-gras, set a fine slice of truffle.

1127—TOURNEDOS ROUMANILLE

Cut the tournedos a little smaller than usual. Season them; fry them in butter, and dish them in a circle on grilled half-tomatoes.

Coat the tournedos with Mornay sauce, and set them to glaze quickly.

In the middle of each tournedos set a large stuffed and poached olive, encircled by a ring consisting of an anchovy fillet.

In the centre of the dish arrange a fine heap of egg-plant roundels, seasoned with salt and pepper, dredged, fried in oil, and kept very crisp.

1128—TOURNEDOS SAINT MANDE

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of a circle, each on a little cushion of “pommes de terre Macaire,” moulded in ordinary tartlet-moulds.

In the centre of the dish set a garnish consisting of peas cohered with butter.

1129—TOURNEDOS A LA SARDE

Prepare a garnish of (1) hollowed, parboiled, and braised sections of cucumber, stuffed with duxelles, and _gratined_; (2) small tomatoes, similarly treated; (3) small round croquettes of rice flavoured with saffron, thickened with egg-yolks, treated _à l’anglaise_, and fried.

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown.

Set a croquette of rice upon each tournedos, and frame the whole with the stuffed cucumber cases and the stuffed tomatoes, laid alternately.

1130—TOURNEDOS SOUBISE

Grill the tournedos and dish them in the form of a crown.

Serve a light Soubise purée separately.

1131—TOURNEDOS TIVOLI

For ten tournedos, prepare ten small grilled mushrooms, and allow one half-tomato tossed in butter for each mushroom.

Fry the tournedos in butter and dish them, in the form of a crown, upon fried crusts. On each tournedos set a grilled mushroom, garnished with a tossed half-tomato, and all round set some fine “pommes soufflées” made in ribbon-form, of a round shape, and in the proportion of one potato to each tournedos.

Send a Béarnaise sauce separately.

1132—TOURNEDOS TYROLIENNE

For ten tournedos, prepare the following sauce:—Gently cook one chopped onion in butter; add two peeled, pressed, and roughly-chopped tomatoes, salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and a little crushed garlic.

When the tomatoes are sufficiently cooked, add thereto a few tablespoonfuls of poivrade sauce, and set to boil for five minutes.

Fry the tournedos in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, and cover them with the prepared sauce.

1133—TOURNEDOS VALENÇAY

Fry the tournedos in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, each on a small, round, and flat croquette of noodles and ham, fried just before dishing up.

Send a Châteaubriand sauce separately.

1134—TOURNEDOS VALENTINO

Prepare as many pieces of turnips, of the same diameter as the tournedos and one and one-half inch thick, as there are tournedos. Cut them neatly round, stamp them with an even and round cutter, and parboil them until they are almost completely cooked. Hollow them out, by means of a spoon, inside the mark left by the fancy-cutter, and stuff them with a preparation of semolina with Parmesan.

Put these stuffed pieces of turnip in a sautépan; add a little water, butter, and sugar, and glaze them while finishing their cooking-process.

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in a circle, each on a stuffed case of turnip.

1135—TOURNEDOS VERT-PRÉ

Grill the tournedos, and dish them simply with half-melted butter à la Maître-d’Hôtel upon them.

Surround them with alternate heaps of water-cress and freshly-fried straw potatoes.

1136—TOURNEDOS VICTORIA

Fry the tournedos in butter.

Dish them in a circle, each on a little round and flat croquette of chicken-meat. On each tournedos set a half-tomato tossed in butter.

1137—TOURNEDOS VILLARET

Prepare (1) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) a sufficient quantity of very smooth flageolet purée to garnish the tartlets; (3) a fine grilled tomato per each tournedos.

Grill the tournedos, and dish them on the garnished tartlets. On each tournedos set a grilled mushroom, the hollow of which should have been filled with Châteaubriand sauce.

1138—TOURNEDOS VILLENEUVE

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in a circle on little quoit-shaped croquettes of chicken-meat, fried at the last moment.

On each tournedos set a crown of small roundels of tongue and truffle, laid alternately, and a small grooved mushroom in the middle.

Send a Châteaubriand sauce separately.

1139—TOURNEDOS VILLEMER

Grill the tournedos, and dish them in a circle, each on a fried, hollowed-out crust, garnished with truffled Soubise.

On each tournedos set a large slice of truffle coated with meat-glaze.

1140—FILETS EN CHEVREUIL

For the “en chevreuil” treatment, the meat used is generally cut from the narrowest end of the fillet of beef. The weight of the pieces cut should average about three oz. each.

After having slightly flattened and trimmed them, lard them with very thin strips of bacon, and _marinade_ them for a few hours in the raw _marinade_ given under No. 169. When about to cook them, dry them thoroughly, and fry them quickly in hot oil, taking care that the latter be smoking, and therefore hot enough to set the meat and to cause its external moisture to evaporate.

The fillets may be accompanied by all vegetable purées and highly-seasoned sauces, the most suitable of the latter being the Poivrade and the Chasseur.

1141—SIRLOIN OF BEEF (Relevé)

Sirloin of beef is that part of the bullock’s back reaching from the haunch to the floating ribs, which is equivalent to the saddle in veal and mutton. This piece, however, cannot properly be called “sirloin,” except when it comprises the fillet or undercut, and the upper fillet (Fr.: contrefilet), so-called to distinguish it from the undercut. If this joint be treated whole, it need only be shortened by suppressing the flank, and by sectioning the ligament lying alongside of the chine on the upper fillet, in different places.

A little fat is left on the undercut, but none whatever must be removed from the upper fillet. As a rule, when sirloin of beef is braised, it is cut laterally into pieces weighing from six to seven lbs. If it is to be roasted, it is best to keep it whole.

When served as a relevé, it is braised or roasted, and is kept underdone if so desired. Unless it be of excellent quality, however, braised sirloin generally turns out to be dry.

All garnishes given for “Filet de Bœuf” may be served with sirloin; but, as a rule, the bulkiest, such as the “Richelieu,” the “Provençale,” the “Godard,” &c., are selected.

The accompanying sauce is that indicated for the above garnishes.

1142—PORTERHOUSE-STEAK (Grill)

Porterhouse-steak is a slice from the sirloin of beef, which may be more or less thick. It is cleared of the flank and of the bones of the chine, and it is always grilled.

It may be served with any of the various garnishes and sauces suited to grills; but it is more often served plain.

1143—UPPER FILLET AND RIBS OF BEEF (Relevé)

The upper fillet is that part of beef which lies between the top of the haunch and the floating ribs, alongside of the chine. It may be treated like the fillet, and all the garnishes suited to the latter may also be applied here.

If the piece is to be braised, it should be completely boned; if intended for roasting, it is best to retain the bones. In the latter case, the large ligament should be cut at various points with the view of preventing distortion, while the bones constituting the spinous process should be broken close to the point where they join the body of the vertebræ, that they may be easily removed when the meat is being carved.

The upper fillet, especially when it is of good quality, is best roasted.

Ribs of beef may likewise be braised or roasted.

In either case, the meat should be properly trimmed and cleared of all the bones of the spinous process.

This piece should only be used after having been well hung, in order that it may be as tender as possible.

1144—GRILLED SIRLOIN STEAKS AND RIBS OF BEEF

The sirloin steak may be cut either from the upper fillet or the ribs of beef, _i.e._, between two rib-bones. In order that its cooking may be regular, it should not weigh more than from two to three lbs.

Ribs of beef may also be grilled, provided they be sufficiently tender.

They may be braised, too, and in this case they are served with any of the various garnishes given under Fillet of Beef.

1145—PIÈCE DE BŒUF BRAISÉE (Relevé)

The piece of beef called rump is the one preferred for boiling and braising. Whatever be the use for which the meat is intended, the weight of the pieces should not be more than six or eight lbs. at the most, and they should be cut in the length rather than in the thickness, that the cooking process may be facilitated.

All the garnishes of braised sirloin of beef are suited to braised pieces of beef.

Boiled beef is generally accompanied by the vegetables used in its cooking-process, by purées, green or dry vegetables, pastes, macaroni, &c., &c.

1146—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA BOURGUIGNONNE

Lard the piece of beef, and _marinade_ it for three hours in brandy and red wine. Braise it after the manner described under No. 247; moisten first with the wine of the _marinade_, and, when the latter is reduced, with some veal gravy and one-half pint of Espagnole sauce per quart of liquid, taking care that the whole moistening reaches the top of the piece of meat. Add a faggot and some mushroom parings; set to boil, and cook gently in the oven.

When the meat is two-thirds cooked, transfer it to another saucepan, and surround it with mushrooms cut into two or four, according to their size, and tossed in butter; breast of bacon, cut into dice, blanched and tossed in butter, and some small onions half-glazed with butter.

Strain the sauce through a sieve over the piece of beef and its garnish, and complete the cooking gently.

A few minutes before serving, put the meat on a dish and glaze it in the oven. Transfer the meat to the dish intended for the table; quickly reduce the sauce if necessary, and pour it over the piece of beef and the garnish.

1147—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA CUILLER

Select a very square or oval piece of beef, and bear in mind, in selecting it, that it will have to be fashioned to the shape of a case when it has been cooked.

String it, and braise it after the manner described under No. 247, almost entirely covering it with moistening liquor.

Set it to cook gently; withdraw the piece when the meat is still somewhat firm, and let it cool under slight pressure.

This done, cut out the meat from the inside; leave a thickness of about half-inch round the sides and on the bottom, and the piece thus emptied should constitute a square or oval case, in accordance with the shape originally adopted.

Coat the outside of the whole piece with a mixture of beaten eggs and fine bread-crumbs, combined with Parmesan; sprinkle melted butter over it with a brush, and put the case into a sufficiently hot oven to allow of a crust forming round it.

Meanwhile chop up the meat extracted from the inside of the piece; add thereto a little salted tongue, some braised slices of sweet-bread, and mushrooms; put the whole into a sautépan with an Italian or a half-glaze sauce, according to the requirements, and heat this garnish.

N.B.—This preparation was quite common in old-fashioned cookery, but though it is still served occasionally, it is now looked upon more as a curiosity than anything else. As a curiosity, therefore, I chose to include it among these recipes; but it does not follow from this that I in any way recommend it.

1148—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA FLAMANDE

Lard the piece of beef, and braise it as explained under No. 247.

Meanwhile prepare the following garnish:—(1) Cut a nice firm cabbage into four, remove the heart, and parboil it for seven or eight minutes. Drain it; cool it; divide up the quarters, leaf by leaf, so as to remove the hard ribs, and season with salt and pepper.

Mould them to the shape of balls by pressing them in the corner of a towel into balls weighing about three oz. each, or simply put them into a saucepan with a quartered carrot, an onion stuck with a clove, a faggot, six oz. of blanched breast of pork, and a little raw sausage with garlic, which latter must be withdrawn after cooking has gone on for one and one-half hours.

Moisten the cabbage with just sufficient consommé to cover it; add a few tablespoonfuls of good stock-fat; set to boil, and cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours.

(2) Cut the required quantity of carrots and turnips to the shape of olives; cook them in consommé, and reduce the latter for the purpose of glazing.

(3) Prepare some potatoes _à l’anglaise_.

Set the piece of beef on a dish large enough to allow of the former being surrounded with the moulded or plainly-heaped cabbages, the glazed carrots and turnips, and the potatoes _à_ _l’anglaise_. The last two vegetables should be set in alternate heaps with the cabbages and the bacon (cut into small rectangles) and the sausage (cut into roundels) should be distributed all round.

Serve separately the gravy of the piece of beef, cleared of all grease, reduced to a half-glaze and strained.

1149—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA MODE CHAUDE

Lard the piece of beef, which should not, if possible, weigh more than from four to five lbs. The strips of bacon used for larding ought to have been prepared fifteen or twenty minutes in advance, _marinaded_ in a few tablespoonfuls of brandy, and sprinkled with parsley just before being used.

Rub the piece with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and put it into a basin with one bottle of red wine and one-fifth pint of brandy, and set it to _marinade_ for four or five hours, taking care to turn it over from time to time.

Then set it to braise after the manner described under No. 247; add its _marinade_ to the moistening, and surround it with three small, boned, blanched, and strung calf’s feet.

When the cooking is three-quarters done, transfer the piece of beef to another saucepan, and surround it with the following garnish:—

1. About one-quarter lb. of carrots turned to the shape of elongated olives, and already two-thirds cooked. 2. Small onions coloured in two-thirds lb. of butter. 3. The calf’s feet cut into small, square, or rectangular pieces.

Strain the braising-liquor over the whole, and complete the cooking gently. When about to serve, either glaze the piece of beef, or dish it plain; coat it lightly with sauce, and send what remains of the latter, with the garnish, in a timbale.

1150—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA MODE FROIDE

Bœuf à la mode is very rarely prepared specially for cold dishing, the remains of a fine piece being generally used for that purpose. The piece of meat must first be well trimmed. If the quantity of sauce do not seem enough, or if the sauce itself seem too stiff, add a third of its volume of aspic jelly to it.

For moulding, take a _terrine à pâté_, a mould, or other utensil capable of holding the piece of meat, its garnish, and its sauce. Deck the bottom of the utensil in any suitable way with the carrots and the onions, and surround the piece with what remains of the latter and the dice of calf’s foot.

Add the sauce, combined with the jelly, after having passed it through a strainer, and put the whole in the cool for a few hours. Turn out just before serving, and surround with very light, chopped jelly.

1151—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA NOAILLES

Lard the piece of beef, and _marinade_ it in brandy and red wine.

This done, dry it thoroughly, and brown it evenly in butter all over; moisten it with its _marinade_ and an equal quantity of veal gravy, and set to cook gently.

When the meat is half-cooked, surround it with two lbs. of minced onions, tossed in butter, and three oz. of rice. Complete the cooking of the piece with onions and rice.

Now withdraw the piece of beef, and quickly rub the onions and the rice through tammy. Reduce this Soubise with rice for a few moments.

Neatly trim the piece of beef; cut it into even slices; reconstruct it on a dish, and between each slice pour a tablespoonful of Soubise purée.

Cover the reconstructed piece of beef with the remainder of the Soubise; sprinkle the surface with two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs fried in butter, and some melted butter, and put the whole in the oven, that the _gratin_ may form speedily.

1152—THE RUMP