April's rosemary straw potatoes with lemon salt

My friend April, who's the chef at the Spotted Pig gastropub in New York, serves these with her famous blue-cheese hamburgers. She calls them shoestring fries, but in classic old-English game cooking they're called straw potatoes. They're a pretty common side dish to roasted grouse or partridge, or you might have game chips or pommes gaufrettes (which are comparable to crinkly chips). By cutting the potatoes in this recipe nice and fine – around 0.5cm thick – you can cook them until golden and crisp first-time round in a fryer or large pan of frying oil. For the last 30 seconds, I like to put a nice big handful of rosemary in with them – this will flavour the oil and the potatoes in the most incredible way. A quick word about deep-frying: don't disregard the importance of being incredibly careful and remember a) not to leave the pan alone as it might catch fire and b) not to leave kids in the same room on their own with the pan.