CREAMS AND CUSTARDS

For creams and custards eggs should never be beaten in tin, btu always in stone or eai*then ware, as there is some chemical influence about tin which prevents their attaining that creamy lightness so desirable. Beat quickly and sharply right through the eggs, beat- ing whites and yolks separately. When gelatine is used for creams, it is better to soak it for an hour in a little cold water c»r milk, set in a warm place ; (it is convenient to place in a bowl set in the top of the boiling tea-kettle to dissolve;) when dissolved, pour into the hot custard just after removing from the stove. For custards the common rule is four eggs, one cup sugar, and one small half tea-spoon salt to each quart of milk. Bake in a b&king-dish until firm in the center, taking care that the heat is moderate or tlie custard will turn in part to whey. The delicacy of the custtird depends on its being baked slowly. It is much nicer to strain the yolks, after they are beaten, through a tmall wire strainer kept for this purpose by every good housekeeper. For boiled custards or floats the yolks alone may be used, or for economy's sake the entire (^jrgs. Always place the milk to boil in a custard-kettle (made of iron with another iron kettle inside, the latter lined with tin), or, in a pan or pail set within a kettle of bailing water; when the milk reaches the boiling point, which is shown by a slight foam rising on top, add the sugar, which cools it so that the eggs will not curdle when added. Or, another convenient way is to mix the beaten and strained yolks with the sugar in a bowl, then add gradually several spoons of the boiling milk, until the eggs and sugar are

CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 103

heated through, when they may be slowly stirred into the boiling milk. Let remain a few moments, stirring constantly until it thickens a little, but not long enough to curdle, then either set the pail immediately in cold water or turn out into a cold dish, as it curdles if allowed to remain in a hot basin ; add flavoring extracts after removing from the stove. Peach leaves or vanilla beans give a fine flavor, but must be boiled in the milk and then taken out before the other ingredients are added. Boiled custards are very difficult to make, and must have the closest attention until they are finished. The custards may be prepared as above, mixing the milk, eggs and sugar, and then placing in pan to steam instead of boiling.

In making ckarloUe-rus&e it is not necessary to add gelatine. The filling may be made of well- whipped cream, flavored and sweetened, using a ** whip-chum " or the " Dover Egg-beater " to do the whipping. Fill the mold (which should be first wet with cold water for c?iarlotte-ni8se and blane mange^ and all creams) and set on ice to harden. If preferred, it may be made up in several small molds, one for each person. In the use of spices it IB well to remember that allspice and cloves are used with meats, and nutmegs and cinnamon in combination with sugar. The white part of lemon rind is exceedingly bitter, and the outer peel only should be used for grating. A better way is to rub the rind off with hard lumps of sugar. The sugar thus saturated with the oil of the lemon is called '^ zest," and is used, pounded fine, for creams,

Bohemian Creams.

One quart cream, two table-spoons sugar, one ounce gelatine soaked in water until dissolved ; whip half the cream (rich milk may be substituted for cream) to a stiff froth ; boil the other half with the sugar and a vanilla bean until a flavor is extracted (or vanilla extract may be added just after it is removed from the fire), take ofi* the fire, add the gelatine, and when cooled a little stir in the weU-beaten yolks of the four eggs. As soon as it begins to thicken, stir steadily until smooth, when add the whipped cream, beating it in lightly. Mold and set on ice until ready to serve.

To flavor with strawberries, strain two pounds berries through a

104 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS.

colander, sweeten to taste, add to the dissolved gelatine, set on ioe, and when it thickens stir until smooth, add the whipped cream ajs above, and mold.

To flavor with peach, boil a dozen and a half choice fruit, sweeten and strain through a colander ; add the dissolved gelatine and a tea- cup of cream, set on ice, and when it thickens stir until smooth, add the whipped cream, and mold.

To flavor with pine-apple, cut fine, boil with half a pound pul% verized sugar, strain through a colander, add the dissolved gela-> tine, set on ice, and when it thickens stir until smooth, add the whipped cream, and mold. Canned pine-apples may be used in- stead of fresh. In all these never add whipped cream until the mass is cool and begins to thicken. — Mrs. W. B. Jones, PUUburghy Pa.

Charlottk-Russe. Cut stale s]X)nge-cake into slices about half an inch thick and line three molds with them, leaving a space of half an inch be- tween each slice ; set the molds where they will not be disturbed until the filling is ready ; take a deep tin pan and fill about one- third full of either snow or pounded ice, and into this set another pan that will hold at least four quarts. Into a deep bowl or jmil (a whip-churn is better) put one and a half pints of cream (if the cream is thick tiike one pint of cream and a half pint of milk), whip to a froth, and when the bowl is full, skim the froth into the pan which is standing on the ice, and repeat this until the cream is all froth ; then with the spoon draw the froth to one side, and you will find that some of the cream has gone back to milk ; turn this into the bowl again, and whip as before ; when the cream is all whipi^ed, stir into it two-thirds cup powdered sugar, one tea- spoon vanilla, and half a box gelatine, which has been soaked in cold water enough to cover it for one hour and then dissolved in boiling water enough to dissolve it (about half a cup), stir from the bottom of the pan until it begins to grow stiff; fill the molds and set them on the ice in the pan for one hour, or until ihey are sent to the table. When ready to dish them, loosen lightly at the sides and turn out (Jn a flat dish ; have the cream ice-cold when you be- gin to whip it, and it is a good plan to put a lump of ice into the cream while whipping it. — M. Parloa.

CREAMS AND CUSTARDS, 105

Charlottb-Russe. Split two dozen lady-fingers (slices of sponge or other cake may be used), lay them in a mold, put one-third of a box of gelatine into half pint of milk, place it where it will be warm enough to diaaolve. Whip three pints of cream to a froth, and keep it cool, beat the yolks of three eggs, and mix with half pound powdered sugar, then beat the whites very stiff, and add to it, strain the gela- tine up)n these, stirring quickly ; then add the cream, flavor w^th vanilla or lemon, pour over the cake, let stand upon ice two hours. Serve with whipped cream. Some add a layer of jelly at bottom of mold. — Mr%, Ida M, DoTuiUhon, Springdale, Col,

Charlotte-Russe. One ounce gelatine dissolved in two gills of boiling milk, whites of foar eggs beaten to a stiff froth, one and a half cups white pow- dered sugar, one pint thick cream whipped to a froth, and rose-water or vanilla for flavoring ; line a large mold with thick slices of sponge- cake, mix the gelatine, sugar, cream and flavoring together, add lightly the frothed whites of the eggs, pour into mold, set away on ice till required for use. This is an easy and excellent mode of making this most delicate dessert. — Mrs, F. O. Hush

Hamburg Cream.

Stir together the rind and jnioe of two large lemons, and oneenp sugar, add the well-beaten yolks of eight eggs ; put all in a tin pai], set in a pot of boiling water, stir for three minutes, take from the fire, add the well-beaten whites of the eggs, and sefve, when cold, b custard-glasses. — Mrs. C. FuUington,

Italian Cream. Soak one-third box gelatine half an hour in cold milk, put a quart milk on to boil, and when boiling stir in yolks of eight eggs well beaten, add one cup and a half of sugar and the gelatine; when the custard begins to thicken, take it ofl* and pour into a deep dish in which the eight whites have been beaten to a stifi* froth ; mix well together and flavor to taste; put in molds, and allow four hours to cool. This cream is much more easily made in winter than in sum- mer.—Jfr«. N. p. WU£s

106 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS,

Bock Cream. Boil one cup rice in a custard-kettle in sweet milk until soft, add two table-spoons loaf-sugar, a salt-spoon salt ; pour into a dish and place on it lumps of jelly ; beat the whites of five eggs and three table-spoons pulverized sugar to a stiff iroth, flavor to taste, add one table-spoon rich cream, and drop the mixture on the rice. — Miss lAbbie S. WilcoXy Madison.

Raspberry Cream. One quart good cream, one pint fresh raspberries ; mash and inib the fruit through a fine sieve or strainer, to extract the seeds, bring the cream to a boil (having reserved one pint for froth), and add it to the berries while it remains hot, sweeten with powdered sugar to taste, let it become cold. Now raise cream which has been reserved to a froth with a beater, take off the froth and lay it on a sieve to drain ; fill dish or glasses with the cream and place froth on top. Very nice. Any kind of berries, jam or jelly is good, and can be used without straining.

Spanish Cream.

One box Coxe's gelatine dissolved in a pint of cold milk ; into two

quarts boiling milk stir one and a half cups sugar and the yolks

of eight eggs ; pour all upon the dissolved gelatine, stirring welL

When cool add half a pint wine, or flavor with lemon or vanilla,

place in dishes and cover with a meringue made of the beaten

whites, the juice of one lemon, and one cup sugar ; brown in oven

two minutes and eat ice-cold. — Susan S. Howard, BrooMyn, New

Tapioca Cream.

Soak over night two table-spoons tapioca in one-half tearcup milk

(or enough to cover); bring one quart milk to boiling point; beat

well together the yolks of three eggs, half tea-cup sugar, and one

tea-spoon lemon or vanilla for flavoring, add the tapioca, and stir

the whole into the boiling milk, let boil once, turn into the dish,

and immediately spread on the whites. Serve when eold, — Mrs. R

M. Henderson.

Whipped Cream.

Place cream over ice until thoroughly chilled, and whip with an

egg-beater or whip-chum until it froths. While whipping place

CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 107

froth on a sieve, and return to bowl to be re-whipped all that passes through. When cream is difficult to whip, add to it and beat with it the white of an egg. Sweetened and flavored this is a choice dessert alone, but it may be served in various ways. Baked apples, and fresh or preserved berries are delicious with it. Jelly-glasses, one-third full of jelly and filled up with cream, make a very whole- some and delicious dessert.

Whipped Cream.

One and one-half pints good rich cream sweetened and flavored

to taste, three tea-spoons vanilla ; whip to a stiff* froth. Dissolve

three-fourths ounce best gelatine in a small tea-cup hot water, and

when cool pour into the cream ; stir thoroughly, pour in molds and

set on ice, or in very cool place. — Mn. Emma Craig, Wdsking-

Urn, D. a

Apple Custard.

One pint of mashed stewed apples, one pint sweet milk, four eggs, one cup sugar and a little nutmeg; bake slowly. — Mrs. O, W. Hensd, QuarryviUe Pa,

Apple 8now.

Pare, core and bring to boil in as little water as possible six tart apple oool, strain, boat well, and add the well-whipped whiter of three Qggf^, sweeten to taste, beat well until a dish of snow is the result, flavor with lemon or manilla, or add the grated rind of a lemon ; serve with sweetened cream. Or, make custard of folks, sugar, and a pint milk, place in a dish, and drop the froth OD it in large flakes. — Mrs. T. J, BuxUm, Minneapolis, 3finn.

Blanc-Mange. Dissolve three heaping table-spoons com starch and three of sugar in one pint of milk ; add to this three eggs well beaten, and pour the mixture into one pint of boiling milk, stirring constantly until it boils again ; just before taking from the stove flavor to suit the taste and pour into cups or small molds ; when cool take out and place on a glass dish with a mold of jelly in the center. Serve a spoon of jelly and a sauce of sweetened cream with each mold. Or, put one quart milk (reserving three table-spoons with which mix three heaping table-spoons corn-starch) with a pinch of salt and five

108 CREAMS AND CUSTABDS.

table-spoons sugar. When milk is hot, pour in the mixed corn- starch, and stir until it is a thick batter ; pour this on the well- beaten whites of four eggs, add two tea-spoons vanilla, pour into molds wet in cold water, and set on ice ; when cold, turn from the mold, and serve in a custard made as follows : Put one pint milk in a basin over boiling water, mix in a tea-cup two even tea-spoons corn-starch in two of cold milk, beat in the four yolks of eggs and two and a half table-spoons of sugar. When the milk is hot pour part of it into the cup and stir well, pour it back into the basin and stir until as thick as desired ; put on ice until chilled thoroughly. Blanc-mange may be colored green with spinage juice, or pink with the juice of strawberry, currant or cranberry, or a handsome yellow with the grated peel of an orange or lemon, moistened with the juice and strained through a cloth. Very pretty half-pint molds may be made as follows : Tilt the mold in a pan of snow or pounded ice, color one-fourth the blanc-mange pink, another fourth green ; wet the molds and pour into them a little of the colored blanc- mange, putting only one color into each mold and filling it so that when tilted the blanc-mange reaches nearly to the top and covers about two-thirds of the bottom ; when cold set mold level, and fill with the white blanc-mange, which has, meantime, been kept in so warm a place as not to harden. K .the molds are made to imitate roses or fruit, the fruit may be green, and roses pink ; if com, yel- low ; and various ways of combining colors and forms will suggest themselves to the ingenious housewife.

Chocolate Blai^c-Manoe.

Half box gelatine, soaked till dissolved in as much cold water as will cover it, four ounces sweet chocolate grated, one quart sweet milk, one cup sugar ; boil milk, sugar and chocolate five minutes, add gelatine, and boil five minutes more, stirring constantly ; flavor with vanilla, put in molds to cool and eat with cream. If wanted for tea, make in the morning ; if for dinner, the night before. For a plain blanc-mange omit the chocolate. — Mrs. Dr. HougtoUy Urbann.

Raspberry Blano-Mange.

Stew nice fiesh raspberries, strain off the juice and sweeten it to taste, place over the fire, and when it boils stir in com starch wet

CREahIS and CUSTARDii. 109

in cold water, allowing two table-spoons of com starch for each pint

of juice ; continue stirring until sufficiently cooked, pour into molds

wet in cold water and set away to cool ; eat with cream and sugar.

Other fruit can be used instead of raspberries. — Mrs. J. P, Rea,

MinneapoliB, Minn.

Boiled Custard.

One quart milk, two table-spoons corn starch, two eggs, one-fourth tea-spoon salt, butter size of a hickory-nut ; wet the starch in a litt!") of the milk, heat the remainder to near boiling, in a tin pail set in a pot of boiling water. The proper heat will be indicated by a froth or film rising to the top ; add the starch till it thickens, stirring con- stantly, then add the eggs well-beaten with four table-spoons of sugar, let it cook, stirring briskly, take off and beat well; flavor; served with grated cocoa-nut it is elegant.

Chocolate Custakd. Break two sections chocolate in a half-dozen pieces, put it in a pan over boiling water, with milk enough t<> barely cover it ; mash and stir perfectly smooth, then add the rest of the milk (one quart in all, reserving three table-spoons in which to dissolve the corn starch,) one cup sugar, yolks of six eggs, a heaping table-spoon corn starch ; beat the yolks, add the sugar and corn starch (dissolved in milk), stir all slowly in the boiling milk, in which the chocolate is dissolved, add a pinch of salt, and let cook a few minutes, stirring constantly ; eat cold with white cake. — Miss Bumie Johnson.

Floating Island. Make a custard of the yolks of six eggs, one quart milk, a small pinch of salt, sugar to taste ; beat and strain yolks before adding to the milk ; place custard in a large tin pan, and set in stove, stirring emwtanily until it boils, then remove, flavor with lemon or rose, and pour into a dish (a shallow, wide one is best), spread smoothly over the boiling hot custard the well-beaten whites, grating some loaf- sugar (some add grated cocoa-nut) on the top. Set the dish in a pan of ice- water and serve cold. Some prepare the whites by placing a table-epoon at a time on boiling water, liiling them out carefully, when cooked, with a skimmer and laying them gently on the float This is the " old reliable recipe."— Jlfr». W. W. W.

110 CREAMS AND CUSTARL&

Good Baked Custard. Eight well-beaten eggs, leaving two whites for the top, three pints milk ; sweeten and flavor to taste ; bake for two hours in a slow oven. Beat the reserved whites to stiff froth with two table-spoons sugar> spread over the top and return to oven to brown.

Gelatine Custard. To one-third package Coxc'-j gelatine, add a little less than one pint boiling water ; stir until gelatine is dissolved, add the juice of one lemon, and one and a half cups sugar; strain through a jelly- strainer into dish for th(» table, and set in a cool place. For custard, to one and a half pints milk add the yolks of four eggs (reserving the whites), and four table-spoons sugar; cook and flavor when cool. When required for the table, cut gelatine into small squares, and over them pour the custard. Add four table-spoons powdered sugar to the whites of four eggs well beaten, and when ready for the table place over the custard with a spoon. — Afr«. W. A, James,

Lemon Custard. Beat the yolks of eight eggs till they are white, add pint boiling water, the rinds of two lemons grated, and the juice sweetened to taste ; stir this on the Are till it thickens, then add a large glass of rich wine, and one-half glass brandy ; give the whole a good boil, and put in glasses. To be eaten cold. Or, put the thin yellow rind of two lemons, with the juice of three, and sugar to taste, into one pint of warm water. As lemons vary in size and juiciness, the exact quantity of sugar can not be given. Ordinary lemons re- quires three gills. It will be safe to begin with that quantity, more may be added if required. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, then the yolks; then beat both together, pour in gradually while beat- ing the other ingredients; put all in a pail, set in a pot of boiling water, and stir until thick as boiled custard ; strain it in a deep dish ; when cool place on ice. Serve in glasses. — Mr%. Belle J2.

Liggetty DetraUy MUh.

Snow Custard.

Half a package of Coxe's gelatine, three eggs, two cups of sugar,

juice of one lemon ; soak the gelatine one hour in a tea-cup of cold

water, add one pint boiling water, stir until thoroughly dissolved.

€BEA3£S AND CVSTARDS. Ill

add two-thirds of the sugar and the lemon juice ; beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and when the gelatine ia quite cold, whip it into the whites, a spoonful at a time, from half an .hour to an hour. Whip steadily and evenly, and when all is stiff, pour in a mold, or in a dozen egg-glasses previously wet with cold water, and set in a cold place. In four or five hours turn into a glass dish. Make a custard of one and one-half pints milk, yolks of eggs, and remainder of the sugar, ilavor with vanilla, and when the meringue or snow-balls are turned out of the mold, pour this around the base. — Mn Chv. Thayer, Wyoming TerriJUyry.

Moonshine. This dessert combines a pretty appearance with palatable flavor, and is a convenient substitute for ice-cream. Beat the whites of six eggs in a broad plate to a very stiff froth, then add gradually six table-spoons powdered sugar (to make it thicker use more sugar up to a pint), beating for not less than thirty minutes, and then beat in about one heaping tablespoon of preserved peaches cut in tiny bits (or some use one cup jelly), and set on ice until thoroughly chilled. In serving, pour in each saucer some rich cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla, and on the cream place a liberal portion of the moonshine. This quantity is enough for seven or eight per- son^.— Mn, H. C Meredith,

Orange Float.

One quart water, the juice and pulp of two lemons, one cofiee-

cap sugar; when boiling, add four table-spoons com starch, let boil

fifteen minutes, stirring all the time ; when cold pour it over four

or five peeled and sliced oranges, and over the top spread the beaten

whites of three eggs ; sweeten and add a few drops of vanilla. —

Mn, Wm, Skinner.

Hidden Mountain.

Six eggs, a few slices citron, sugar to taste, three-quarters of a

pint of cream, a layer of any kind of jam ; beat the whites and

yolks of the eggs separately, then mix and beat again, adding the

dtron, the cream and sugar; when well beaten put in a buttered

pan and fry, cover with the jam and garnish with slices of citron ;

to be eaten cold. — Mr9, J, C, OotUd,

112 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS,

Orange Souffle. Peel and sliee six oranges, put in a glass dish a layer of oranges, then one of sugar, and so on until all the orange is used, and let stand two hours ; make a soft boiled custard of yolks of three eggs, pint of milk, sugar to taste, with grating of orange peel for flavor, and pour over the oranges when cool enough not to break dish ; beat whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, stir in sugar, and put over the pudding. Praised by all. — Mrs. Mary A. lAvermjore^ Melrose, Mas8,

Prune Whip.

Sweeten to taste and stew three-quarters of a pound of prunes; when perfectly cdd, add the whites of four eggs beaten stiff; stir all of this together till light, put in a dish, and bake twenty minutes ; when cold, serve in a larger dish, and cover well with good cream.

Virginia Caramel Custard.

To make a baked custard, separate the whites and yolks of five eggs, beat the yolks well with a quarter of a pound of sugar, add the well-beaten whites and mix well with a quart of milk. Flavor and then pour into a buttered mold. Set immediately into a pan of boiling hot water, in a moderately hot oven. About half an hour will be required to set it firmly. When nicely browned and pufied up, touch the middle with a knife blade ; if it cuts as smooth as around the sides it is done ; take care not to overdo. Let cus- tard stand imtil perfectly cold, turn out gently on a plate and dust thickly with sugar, place in upper part of a hot oven ; the sugar Boon melts and browns. Another way is to butter the mold care^ fully, sprinkle sugar over bottom and set on stove to brown (great care is necessary to prevent sticking), pour in custard and bake ; when turned out the caramel will be on top.

A thinner custard may be made with a less number of eggs, but it can not be carameled unless baked in individual cups. Less eggs may also be used by substituting a portion of corn starch, boiled rice, gelatine or something else to give firmness, but the quality of custard will be impaired. And if more than one or two additional eggs are used the custard is spoiled. Baking too rap- idly, or too long, injures custard, hence do not scald milk and eggs before setting in oven, as many recommend. By baking in boiling water the temperature is regular, and scorching prevented.

CONFECTIONERY.

There are very few modem kitchens in which some cooking uten- sil may not be found convenient for making candy. A sauce-pan of tinned iron, with a handle and flaring sides, and a lip to facilitate the pouring of the contents, will be found best adapted to such use ; or a small iron or brass kettle will do if kept quite dean.

Dissolve four pounds white sugar in one quart water ; place this in a porcelain kettle over a slow fire for half an hour, pour into it a small quantity of gelatine and gum-arabic dissolved together ; all the impurities which rise to the surface skim off at once. Instead of gelatine and gum-arabic, the white of an egg may be used as a substitute with good results. To make the clarifying process still more perfect, strain through a flannel bag. To make rock candy, boil this syrup a few moments, allow to cool, and crystallization takes place on the sides of the vessel. To make other candies, bring the syrup very carefully to such a degree of heat that the "threads," which drop from the spoon when raised into the colder air, will snap like glass. When this stage is reached, add a tea- spoon of vinegar or cream tartar to prevent "graining," and pour into pans as directed in the recipes which follow. To make round stick candies, pull, and roll into shape with well-floured hands as soon as cool enough to be handled. In pulling candy, some grease the hands, others flour them slightly. Colored candies are often injurious, and sometimes even poisonous, and should be avoided.

Id baking macaroons and kisses, use washed butter for greasing the tins, as lard or salt butter gives an unpleasant taste. Bake in

114 CONFECTIONERY.

a moderate oven, or let dry in a cool oven for two hours. After buttering, sprinkling lightly with flour and then shaking it off, is an exoellent way to prepare the pan. When powdered almonds are to be used, they should be thoroughly dried in an open oven, after blanching, and they will pulverize more easily. In niAking macaroons or drops, or pulling butter-scotch or taffy, grease hands lightly with butter to prevent sticking. Flouring the hands is apt to give an unpleasant taste to candy.

Almond Macaroons. Pour boiling water on half a pound almonds, take skins off and throw into cold water for a few moments, then take out and pound (adding a table-spoon essence lemon) to a smooth paste, add one pound of pulverized sugar and whites of three eggs, and work the paste well together with back of spoon ; dip the hands in water and roll mixture into balls the size of a nutmeg, and lay on buttered paper an inch apart ; when done, dip the hands in water and pass gently over the macaroons, making the sur&ce smooth and shining; set in a cool oven three-quarters of an hour. If this recipe is strictly followed, the macaroons will be found equal to any made by professional confectioners. — Mrs. L. 8. W.