GAME AND POULTRY

To preserve game and poultry in summer, draw as soon as possible after they are killed, wash in several waters, have in readiness a kettle of boiling water, plunge them in, drawing them up and down by the legs, ^ that the water may pass freely through them ; do this for five minutes, arain, wipe dry, and hang in a cold place ; when i)erfectly cold, rub the insides and necks with pepper ; prepared in this way, they w411 keep two days in warm weather; when used wash thoroughly. Or wash well m soda-water, rinse in clear water, place inside several pieces of charcoal, cover with a cloth, and hang in a dark, cool place. The most delicate birds can be preserved in this

GAME. AND POULTR Y. 505

'way. If game or poultry is at all strong, let it stand for several hours in "water with either soda or charcoal ; the latter will sweeten them when they are apparently spoiled. English or French cooks, however, never wash poul- try or game in dressing, unless there is something to wash off. With skill- ful dressing, none i.s necessiiry on the score of cleanliness, and much washing tends to Impair the fine flavor, especially of game. In all game and poultry the female is the choicer.

Sportsmen who wish to keep prairie-chickens, pheasants, or wild fowl in very hot weather, or to shu> long distances, should draw the bird as s(K)n as killed, force down the throat two or three whole peppers, tying a string around the throat above them, sprinkle inside a little powdered cha'flcoal, and fill the cavity of the body with very dry grass. Avoid green or wet grass, which " heats" and hastens decay. If birds are to be shipped without drawing, force a piece of charcoal into the vent, and tie a string closely around the neck, so as to exclude all air, and make a loop in string to hang up by. Prepared in this way, they will bear shipment for a long distance.

Ducks. — Young ducks feel tender under the wings, and the web of the foot is transparent; those with thick, hard breasts are best. Tame ducks have yellow legs; wild ducks, reddish ones.

Geese. — In young geese, the bills and feet are yellow and supple, and the skin may be easily broken ; the breast is plump, and the fat white; an old goose has red and hairy legs, and is unfit for the table.

Wild Ducks, if fishy and the flavor is disliked, should be scalded for a few minutes in salt and water before roasting. If the flavor is very strong, the duck may be skinned, as the oil in the skin is the objectionable part. After skinning, spread with butter, and thickly dredge with flour, before putting in a very quick oven.

Game. — In pheasants and quails, yellow legs and dark bills are signs of a young bird. They are in season in autumn. Pigeons should be fresh, fat and tender, and the feet pliant and smooth. In prairie-chickens, when fresh, the eyes are full and round, not sunken; and, if young, the breast-bone is soft and yields to pressure. The latter test also applies to all fowls and game birds. Plover, woodcock, snipe, etc., may be chosen by the same rules.

Turkeys are in season in fall and winter, but deteriomte in the spring. Old turkeys have long hairs, and the flesh is purplish when it shows under the skin 6n lesi^s and back; when good, thry are white, plump, with full breast and smooth, black legs; and, if male, soft, loose spurs. The eyes are bright and full, and the feet are simple, when fresh. The absence of these signs denotes age and staleness. Hen turkeys are inferior in flavor, but are smaller, fatter and plumper. Full-grown turkeys are best for bon- ing or boiling, as tlie flesh does not tear in dres.sing.

Chickens, when fresh, are known by full, bright eyes, pliable feet, and soft, moist skin. Young fowls have a tender skin, .smooth legs and conih, and the best have yellow legs. In old fowls, the legs are rou^h and hard. The top of the breast-bone of a young fowl is soft, and may be easily bent with the ^gers; and the feet and neck are large in proportion to thebody. The best pbwls are fat, plump, with skin nearly white, and the grain of the flesh fine. Old fowls have long, thin necks and feet, and the flesh on the legs and hack has a purplish shade. Fowls are always in season.

Venison. — The choice of venison should be regulated by the fat, which, when the venison is young, should be thick, clear and close, while the meat is a reddish brown. As it always begins to taint first near the haunches, run a knife into that part; if tainted, a rank smell and a greenish appear- ance will be perceptible. It may be kept a long time, however, with careful

506 FISH.

management and watching, by the following process: Wash it well In milk and water, and dry it perfectly with a cloth until there is not the least damp remaining; tlien dust ground penuer over every part. Tliis is a good jire- servative against the ny. Tiie nesh of a female deer, abort four years old, is the sweetest and best of venison.

When fresh, the eyes of fish are full and bright, and the gills a fine clear red, the body stiff and the smell not unpleasant. Mackerel nuist be lately caught, or it is very indifferent fish, and the flavor and excellence of salmon dejiends entirely on its freshness. Lobsters, when freshly caught, have some mus<?ular action in their claws which may be excited by pressing the eyes. The heaviest lobsters are the best. The male is thought *o have the highest flavor, the fiesli is firmer, and the shell has a brighter red, and is considered best during the Fall and Spring ; it may be readily distinguished from the female, as the tail is narrower, and the two up{>crmost fins, within the tail, are stiff and hard; those of the female are soft, and the tail broader. The latter are prepared for sauces on accoimt of their coral, and are preferred during the summer, especially in June and July. The head is used in garnishing, by twisting it off after the lobster has been boiled and become cold. Lobsters ranging from four pounds are most delicate. If crabs are fresh, the eyes are bright, the joints of the legs are stiff, and the inside has an agreeable smell. The heaviest are the best, the light ones being waterj-. Scallops are not much used; when fresh, the shell closes tight; hard-shell clams are also closed tight when fresh. Soft-shell clams are good only in cold weather, and should be fresh. Oysters, if alive and healthy, close tight upon the knife. They are good from September to May.

In fresh-water fish, the same signs of freshness are good tests. Of course, it is impossible to name all the excellent varieties, as they differ with the locality'. In the South is the shad, the sheep's-head, the golden mullet and the Spanish mackerel, in the North-west the luscious brook trout, and the wonderful and choice tribes that people the inland lakes. Among the best of the fresh-water fish, sold generally in tlie markets of the interior, are the Lake Superior trout and white fish, and, coming from cold waters, they keep best of all fresh-water fish ; the latter is the best, most delicate, and ha^ fewer bones, greatly resembling shad. The wall-eyed pike, bass and i)ickerel of the inland lakes are also excellent fish, and are shipped, packed in ice,- reaching market as fresh as when caught, and are sold at moderate prices. California salmon is also shipped in the same way, and is sold fresh in ail cities, with fresh cod and other choice varieties from the Atlantic coast, but the long distance which they must be transported makes the price high. The cat-fish is the staple Mississippi River fish, and is cooked in various ways. Lake Superior trout are the best fresh fish for baking. All fish which have been packed in ice should be cooked immediately after re- moval, as they soon grow soft and lose their flavor. Stale fish must never be eaten. Fresh fish should be scaled and cleaned properly on a dry table, and not in a pan of water. As little water should be used as is compatible

VEGETABLES. 507

with perfect cleanliness. When dressed, place near ice until needed, then remove and cook immediately. If frozen when brought from market, thaw in ice-cold water. Fresh cod, whiting, haddock, and shad are better for being salted the night before cooking them, and the muddy smell and taste of fresh-water fish is removed by soaking, after cleaning, in strong salt and water.

Eels must be dressed as soon as possible, or they lose their sweetness ; cut off the head, skin them, cut them open, and scrape them free from every string. They are good except in the hottest summer montlis, the fat ones being best. A fine codfish is thick at tlie back of the neck, and is best in cold weather. In sturgeon, the fish should be white, the veins blue, the grain even and the skin tender.

The best salt mackerel for general use are "English mess," but ** bloaters'* are considered nicer. In selecting always choose those which are thick On the belly and fat ; poor mackerel are always dry. The salt California sal- mon are excellent, those of a dark rich yellow being best, lb freshen, place with scale side up. Salmon boiled and served with egg sauce or butter dressing is nice. No. 1 white fish is also a favorite salt fish, and will be found in all markets.

A good deal of sturgeon is put up and sold for smoked halibut. The skin of halibut should be white ; if dark it is more likely to be sturgeon. Smoked salmon should be firm and dry. Smoked white fish and trout are very nice, the former being a favorite in whatever way dressed. Select good firm whole fish. White fish is very nice broiled. Each of the above is better than herring.

VEGETABLES.

All vegetables snap crisply when fresh ; if they bend and present a wilted appearance, tliey are stale. If wilted, they can be partly restored by being sprinkled with water, and laid in a cool, dark place.

Potatoes are good with all meats. With poultry they are best mashed. Sweet potatoes are most appropriate to roasts, as are onions, winter squash, and asparagus.

Carrots, parsnips, turnips, greens, and cabbage are eaten with boiled meat^ and com, beets, pease, and beans are appropriate to either boiled or roasted meat. Mashed turnip is good with roasted pork and with boiled meats.

Tomatoes are good with every kind of meat, but especially so with roasts; apple sauce with roast pork, and cranberry sauce with beef, fowls, veal and ham.

Currant jelly is most appropriate with roast mutton and venison,

Pickles are good with all roast meats, and capers or nasturtiums with boiled lamb or mutton.

Turnips are not nutritious, being ninety per cent, water, but an excellent food for those who are disposed to eat too much, as they correct constipation.

Tomatoes are generally regarded as wholesome. The medium-sized smooth ones are best.

Cauliflowers are best when large, solid and creamy. When stale th# leaves are wilted and show dark spots.

508 GROCERIES,

Celery stalks sliould be white, solid and clean. Celery begins in August, but it is better and sweeier after frost

E«a-PLANT should be firm but not rii)e. The large purple oral-shaped kind, is best.

Mushrooms are dangerous tilings for the inexperienced to buy, and should be let alone.

Pease should be Imught in pods arid should feel cool and dry. If pods are rusty or spotte<l, they are too oltl to be gtKxl.

Potatoes. — Select thv)heof medium size, smooth, with small eyes. To test, cut off a piece of the large end ; if spotted, they are unsound. In the spring, when potatoes are lieginning to bprout, place u basket of them in a tub, pour boiling water over them ; in a moment or two take out and place in sun to dry (on the gra^ is a good place), and then return to cellar. If they have sprouted to5 much it i.s best to lirst rub them off.

Berries. — Morning is the best time to eat fruit, and fresh fruit is then in tlie best condition to be eaten. When berries of any kind can be got fresh wjth the morning dew, fill the finest glass dish, adding a few fresh leaves, for a center-piece, on the breakfast tiible. Serve in saucers accompanied with fine white sugar (pulverized is the best and most economical for all purposes) and fresh croam if you have it, but never substitute .skim milk. The berries will be very ni^e with only sugar. There is a vast difference between fruit with cream'and fruit with milk. Cream is easily digested find slow to sour, while just tlie cmtrary is true of milk after the cream has been removed. Yet we have know.i people to live after* eating strawberries aud buttermilk, and wo have also known people to die after eating hot apple dumplings and cold milk. If you happen to be the fortunate possessor of a berry patch, let the children go out before breakfast and pick and eat. Properly trained children will not abuse this privilege.

8aoo. — The small white sago, called ** pearl," is best

Raisins sliould be bought in small quantities; small boxes are best

Rice. — The Southern rice cooks much quicker, and is nicer than the Indian rice,

Macaroni. — Good macaroni is of a yellowish color, does not break in cook- ing and yields four times its bulk.

Cheese, which feels soft between the fingers, is richest and best, and should be kept in a box in a cool dry place.

Corn Meal does not keep well and should be bought in small quantities. South the w hite meal is used, and North the yellow is the favorite. Com is a heat prxiucer and is a useful winter diet.

Vinegar, which is made of wine or cider, is the best Buy a keg, or half barrel of it, and set it in the cellar, and then keep a supply for the casters in a junk bottle in the kitchen. If too strong, vinegar will "eat" pickles.

Hard Soap should be bought in large quantit^r, and laid to harden in bars piled on each other. Hard soap is more economical than soft, as it is not so easily wasted.

Spices and Pepper should be ground fine, and put in large-mouthed glass bottles, or kept in tin cans, in a dry place. Avoid bright red peppers, spices, and saiices.

Starch may also be bought in large quantities at a considerable discount from the retail price, which, in a large family, makes a difference in the yearly expenses. The best starch is the most economical.

Buckwheat Meal, Rice and Hominy should be purchased in small qnan* tities, and kept in covered kegs or tubs. Several of these articles are in- fested witli black insects, and an examination should be occasionally made for them.

LARD.^Tbe best lard is made from leaf fat which adhered to the ribs and belly of the hog. This is known as leaf lard. Most lard is, however, mada

GROCERIES, 509

of both leaf fat and meat fat, the latter cut into small pieces and rendered. Good lard should be white, solid, and without any disagreeable smell.

Egos. — To determine the exact age of eggs, dissolve about four ounces of common salt in a quart of pure water and tlien immerse the e^. If it be only a day or so old, it will sink to the bottom of tlie vessel, out if it bo three days old it will float in tlie liquid; if mure than five it comes to the surface, and rises above in proportion to its increased age.

Salt must l)e kept in the dryest place that can be found. The best for table use is put up in boxes, but if a quantity bo purchased, it should bo stored in a glass jar, and closely covered. When it becomes damp in the salt-stands, it should be set by the fire to dry, and afterwards reduced to fino ])owder again.

Coffee and Tea can be bought with advantage in considerable quantitic**. Coffee improves by age if kept in a dry place, as it loses its rank smell and taste. Several cents a pound may be saved by buying a bag of coffee or half chest of tea. Tea loses its flavor if i>ut up in pajSer, and should be kept in glass or tin, shut tight. Coffee should be kept by itself, as its odor anects other articles.

Arrowroot, Tapioca Sago, Pearl-barley, American Tsinoless, Maca- roni, Vermicelli, and Oat-meal, are all articles which help to make an agreeable variety, and it is just as cheap to keep a small quantity of each as it is to buy a large quantity of two or three articles. Eight or ten pounds each of these articles of food can be kept in covered jars or covered wooden boxes, and then they are always at hand when wanted. All of them are very healthful food, and help to* form many delightful dishes for dess,erts.

StoARS. — Buy sugars for variou.s purposes as follows:

For baked custard, mince ))ie, squash pie, fruit cake, gingerbread, most Indian puddings, use brown sugar.

For all light-colored cakes, icing, floating island, blanc-mange, meringues, whips, use powdered sugar.

For pudding sauce, use powdered ^r brown sugar.

For sweetmeats, j^lly, and raspberry vinegar, u.se granulated sugar.

Flour should be bought in small quantities, and the best is cheapest. The test of quality is given under bread. Flour is peculiarly sensitive to at- mospheric influence, hence it should never be stored in a room with sour liquids nor where onions or fish are kept, nor any article that taints the air of the room in wliich it is stored. Any smell perceptible to the sense will be absorbed by flour. Avoid damp cellars or lofts wliere a free circulation of air can not be obtained. Keep in a cool, dry, airy room, and not ex- posed to a freezing temperature nor to intense summer or to artificial heat for any length of time above 70 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit It should not come in contact with grain or other substances which are liable to heat. Flour should be sifted and the particles thoroughly disintegrated, and then warmed before baking.

Dressing Poultry for Market. — Secure plump, well fattened fowls. Do not feed for at least 24 hours before killing. Open the veins of the neck and bleed freely— thi.s is the best mode of killing. Scald enough to make the feathers come off easily, picking both feathers and pin feathers off nicely. Be careful not to bruise or break the skin in any way, because it injures the sale. Leave all the entrails in, and head and' feet* on. Immediately after they lu-Q dressed, dip once in boiling hot water, letting them rernain in about ten seconds; tnen dip into ice-cold water, allowing them to remain in the same length of time, then hang in a cool place where they will dry be- fore packing. Ducks should he treated same as fowls or chickens. Pack in boxes or barrels in nice, clean rye or oat straw. Boxes holding from 100 lbs. to 200 lbs. are the most desirable style of packages. Pack with breasts down, using straw between each layer.

Be sure to pack solid, so they will not bruise on the way. Poultry pre- pared in this way will meet v/ith a ready sale, while poorly dressed, sweaty

510 FUEL.

(caused by beiiiR packed while warm) and bruised lots will not sell at any time. Large, fat, dry picked turkeys and chickens sell well. They shoula be picked at once after killing, and hung up until the animal heat is entirely out before packing. Renienil^r, it is the appearance of goods that sells thenu Nice, large, fat, plump turkeys, chickens, ducks, or geese, always brin^ out- side prices.

Tfte best time to ship. — Any time after the tenth of November, so as to reach market by Weunesday or Thursday of each week. If sent for tlie holidays, tliey should arrive at least threedays before Thanksgiving, Christ- mas or New Year's. Keep the largest turkeys for New Year's. Geese sell best at Christmas.

Wood. — A table showing the comparative value of various woods is griven with the table of weights and measures. That cut from the body of aiuaturo tree is best.

Soft Coal, — ^The objection to soft coal is the dust that arises from it, and the unpleasant smell of the gases of combustion. There is a great difference in the quality of soft coals from different mines, and it will be easy to learn the best varieties in the local market.

Hard Coal. — Bad coal has flat, dull pieces in it which remain hard, heavy and whitish when burned, called '* bone.'' If in a scuttle full of coal weigh- ing twenty-five pounds, a half pound of these white pieces are found, the coal is not good. Coal is pronounced good if it breaks at right angles firmly and with a bright fracture. If it shatters or is full of dull pieces, it is poor in ouality. There is a vast difference in hard coal, a difference which lew on- aerstand.

It IB no trining accomplishment to carve well, and both ladlea and gentle- men oaght to so far make carving a study tliat they may be able to perform the task with autficient sicill at ieaat to prevent remark. There are no real difficulties in tliB way of mastering the accomplishment; knowledge simply is required. .A.I1 displays of exertion are in bad taste, because they inilieate a want of ability on tlie purt of tlie carver, or arc a alroiig indication of tJic ... .t .1. __ ^.._ -^o( (j,e ijj,^ ^ gf^^i ^^,r^rj ■..™i^

. . , , , '.I should be plated sc

jr that he lias Cull control over it; it tar off notliing can prevent an

tingraceful appearance. In carving a turkey, place the bead lo the ''isht, cut off the wing nearest you firat, then the leg and second joint; then slice the breast until a rounded, ivory-shaped piece appears; insert the knife between that and the huneand separate them; this part is the nicest bit of the breast; neit conies the ■■ nierry-tliought" After this, turn over the bird a little, and just tielow the breast you will find tlie ''oyster," which you can separata u you did the inner breast. The aide bone lies beside the rump, and the desired morsel can be taken out without separating the whole bone. Pro- ceed in the same waj' upon the other side. The fork need not be removed during the whole process. An eicperienced carver will dissect s fowl as msily as you can break an egg or cut a potato. He retains his seat, manages his handa and elbows artistically, and is perfectly at his ease. There is no difficulty in the matter; it only requires knowledge and practice^and these ■hould be tiiu};Iit in the family, each child taking his turn. Chickens and partridges are carved in the same way. The trail of a woodcock o

lutting a breast of veal, separate the u up.

Sirloin of Bkef.— In carving, beef, mutton, lamb, and veal, thin, smooth, and neat slices are desira- ble— cut OTOM tbr grain, taking care to pasa the knife through to the bones of the lyeat. There are two modes of helping a sirloin of beet; either by carving long, thin slices from 3 to 4. and helping it with a bit ot the fat underneath the riba, or by cutting tiiicker slices, from

SnouLDEB OF Mutton. — A shoulder of mutton should he cut down to the hone, in the direrlion of the line 1, and then thin slices of lean taken from each side. The best fat is found at 2 and should be cut in thin slices in that direction. Several temptingsliceecan be cut on either aide of the line 3. and there are nice bila on the under aida near the flap.

I to 2. through the tenderloin.

Ham. — A ham may be carved in three ways: First, by cutting long, delicate slices, through the thick fat from 1 to 2, down to the bone ; sec- ondly, by running the point of the knife in the circle in the middle, and cutting thin circular slices, thus keeping the ham moist; and last, and most economically, by begin- ning at the knuckle, 4-5, and slicing upward.

Lk« of Mutton. — In carving a lo^ of mutton the best slices are ob- tained froiu the center, by cutting from 1 to 2; and some very good cuts are found on the broad end from 5 to 6. Some epicures prefer slices nearer the knuckle, but the^ are dry. The cramp-bone is a deli- cacy, and is obtained by cutting down to the bone at 4, ana running the knife under it in a semicircular direction to 3. The fat so esteemed by many lies on the ridge 5. By turning over the meat some excellent slices are found, and can be cut lengthwise.

Tongue. — A tongue should be carved as " thin as a wafer ; " its deli- cacy depending in a great degree upon that. A well-cut tongue tempts the most fastidious; and this applies, in fact, to all kinds of roast and boiled meats. A chunk of beef we turn from with disgust — an artistic slice we enjoy. The center slices of the tongue are considered the best, and should be cut across at the line 1, and the slices taken from each side, with a portion of the fat which is at its root, if it is liked. I^he question should oe asked.

Haunch of Venison. — A haunch of venison should be cut across to the bone on the line 1-3-2, then turn the dish a little, and put the point of the knife at 3, and cut down as deep as possible in the direction of S-4, and continue to cut slices on the right and left of the line. The fat- test parts are found between 4 and 2. A loin of veal or a loin of mutton should be jointed by the butcher before it is cooked, and the carver easily cuts through the ribs. He should serve a portion of the kidney and the fat on each plate.

In serving fish, some practice is needful, for lightness of touch and dex- terity of management are necessary to prevent the flakes from breaking. In serving mackerel, shad, etc., a part of the roe should be placed on each plate. The fins of the turbot are the most sought for ; the fish is placed underpart uppermost on the platter, as there lies the primest part. In carving salmon, a portion of the back and belly should be served to each person. The choicest morsels are next to the head, the thin part comes next, and the tail is the least esteemed. The flavor of the fish nearest the bone is not e<jual to that on the upper part.