MUTTON AND LAMB

Note-^ -Mutton should be quite fat, and the fat clear, hard and white; when yellow it is old, and should be rejected. The lean of fat mutton will be juicy and tender, and is of a deep dark red color. The longer it is hung before cooking — provided it is not tainted — the more tender it will be; and if washed with vinegar every day and then thor- oughly dried it will keep a long time. During the summer months, if rubbed with ground pepper and ginger it will keep off flies. For roasts, choose the shoulder, loin or haunch, for boiling the leg, and the small ribs for chops. Cuts from the round of the leg are mutton steaks, not properly chops, though so termed by some. They are usually tough, and inferior to rib chops for broiling.

133. Boiled Mutton with Caper Sauce— Into a large pot of boiling water put a handful of salt. Select a leg of mutton, with the fat clear, hard and white; wash it and rub salt into every part. If desired rare, cook two hours; if well done, three hours, or even more, according to size. Make a sauce of a pint of hot milk, thickened with flour; add butter, salt, pepper and two tablespoons capers; small chopped pickle will answer the place of capers, if not convenient. A mint sauce similar to that served with roast lamb may be used, if preferred. Serve boiled mutton with hot plates.

134. Leg of Mutton a la Venison — Remove all the rough fat from the mutton and lay it in a deep earthen dish; rub into it thor- oughly the following: One tablespoon salt, one each of celery-salt, brown sugar, black pepper, English mustard, allspice, and some sweet herbs, all powdered and mixed; after which pour over it slowly a teacup good vinegar, cover tightly, and set in a cool place four or five days, turning it and basting often with the liquid each day. To cook, put in a kettle a quart of boiling water, place over it an inverted shallow pan, and on it lay the meat just as removed from the pickle; cover the kettle tightly and stew four hours. Do not let the water touch the meat. Add a cup of hot water to the pickle remaining and baste with it. When done, thicken the liquid with flour and strain through a fine sieve, to serve with the meat; also a relish of currant jelly, the same as for venison.

135. Mutton Chops, Broiled — Select good fat chops from the rack of the fore-quarter; cut very thick — to obtain which cut off two ribs, remove the bone from one and press the meat closely to the other; also neatly trim off the meat from the small part of the bone for two or three inches, to serve as a handle. Broil over a brisk char- coal or coke fire upon a wire gridiron, turning frequently until both sides are done to fancy. Serve on a hot platter, and garnish the chops by neatly wrapping around the handle of each clear white paper, and lay a sprig of fresh celery-top on each chop.

136. Mutton Chops, Fried — Rub them with salt and pepper, put in the frying-pan, cover them, and fry five minutes, turning but once; then dip them in well-beaten egg, and then in fine cracker or bread crumbs, and fry until tender or browned nicely on each side.

137. Mutton Chops, Fried— Put them in a dripping-pan in' the oven, with a little salted water and pepper; baste frequently, turn- ing them until brown.

138. Haricot of Mutton — If you have left part of a leg of cold boiled mutton, saw off the end of the bone from which the meat has been cut, so as to leave the remainder in a good shape ; put both pieces into a closely covered saucepan ; cut into dice, a carrot, turnip and onion, put in four cloves and a teaspoon of salt, put in hot water enough to cover the mutton, and simmer gently until the vegetables are very soft ; then take out the meat and bone, thicken the gravy with two teaspoons flour wet in cold water. Let it boil up after the meat is removed, and turn it over the mutton.

139. Mutton and Rice — Mince into dice pieces of cold mutton, add a cup of cold boiled rice to one of meat ; butter a sauce- pan well, pour in a little water, add the mutton and rice, and stir until hot, then pour in two eggs slightly beaten, and stir until they are cooked ; sprinkle with pepper and salt to taste.

140. Mutton and Tomato Sauce— (See Roast Beef and Tomato Sauce, No. io8); and cook cold roast or boiled mutton as directed for beef.

141. Mutton Pie with Tomatoes — Over the bottom of an earthen baking-dish place a layer of bread crumbs, and over it alter- nate layers of cold roast mutton cut in thin slices, and tomatoes peeled and sliced, season each with salt, pepper and bits of butter, as laid in. The top layer should be of tomatoes, spread over with bread crumbs. Bake three-quarters of an hour, and serve immediately.

142. Shepherd's Pie — Spread over a small platter, thoroughly buttered, warm mashed potato, mixed with enough milk to make it a little soft, and set in the oven to brown. When stiffened enough, and as brown as pie-crust, pour over it minced cold mutton warmed in a little thickened gravy. Is a fine breakfast dish.

143. Scrambled Mutton — Two cups of chopped cold mutton, two tablespoons hot water, and a piece of butter as large as an English walnut. When the meat is hot, break in three eggs, and constantly stir until the eggs begin to stiffen. Season with pepper and salt.

144. Mutton and Potato Pie — Mince cold mutton with a very little onion, salt and pepper, and put in gravy enough to make it quite moist; also a few capers. Put it into a buttered pudding-dish, and spread the top with mashed potato, and set in the oven. When very hot, rub a piece of butter over the top, and brown in the oven.

Note — Lamb is good at a year old, and is then known as "spring lamb "; early in the season is rather an expensive meat in most locations, and it is quite inferior to good mutton in nutriment, or for digestion

The meat should be a light red, and fat. If the fore-quarter is not fresh, the large vein will be greenish instead of blue; and if the hind- quarter is stale, the kidney fat will have a slight smell.

145. Spring Lamb with Mint Sauce — Select a saddle of a lamb at least a year old, the meat a light red and fat. Rub well with salt and pepper, and roast about an hour and a half, basting frequently with salted water and the drippings. Serve with mint sauce, made as follows: Take fresh young spear-mint leaves stripped from stems, wash and drain them or dry on a cloth, chop very fine, put in a gravy tureen, and to three tablespoons of mint add two of finely-powdered cut-loaf sugar; mix and let it stand a few minutes, then pour over it slowly six tablespoons good cider or w7hite-wine vinegar. The sauce should be made some time before dinner, so that the flavor of the mint may be well extracted.

146. Stewed Lamb with Peas — Take the neck or breast, cut in small pieces, and put in a stewpan with some thinly-sliced salt pork, and enough water to cover it ; cover closely and stew until ten- der, skim off all scum, and add a quart of green shelled peas, adding more water if necessary; cover until the peas are cooked tender, and add a little butter, rolled with flour and pepper to taste ; let it simmer a few minutes, and serve.

147. Broiled Breast of Lamb with Cream Sauce — Remove

the neck, shoulder and end of the ribs, for an inch and a half, from a fat young spring lamb. Broil over a brisk charcoal or coke fire, frequently turning until done as desired, place on a hot platter, salt, pepper and butter it. Set in the oven while making a sauce as follows : Heat a tablespoon of butter in a small saucepan, add a teaspoon of flour, and stir until perfectly smooth ; then add, slowly stirring in, a cup of cold milk, let it boil up once, and season to taste with salt and pepper and a teaspoon of finely chopped fresh parsley. Serve in a gravy boat, all hot.

148. Broiled Lamb Chops — Have them fat and tender from the rack of the forequarter, trim the meat off the small end of the bone about an inch, as a handle, broil over a clear fire, season with pepper and salt and butter, and serve, laying them one over the other, with a slice of lemon on the top one. Garnish the edge of the platter with slices of cucumber and beet pickles, alternately, cut in triangles, the points outwards.

149. Lamb Scallop — One cup each of cold lamb (chopped fine), stewed tomato, and fine bread crumbs. Arrange all in alternate layers in a buttered dish, having the crumbs at top. Season with salt and pepper. Put bits of butter on the top and bake.

150. Lamb a la Matelot — Cut rather thick slices of cold lamb, beat an egg and lay them in it; lift them out one by one; drain for a moment, and then cover with sifted bread crumbs, seasoned with pepper and salt; fry in hot lard

Note — Much care should be taken in the selection of pork. Both fat and lean should be very white, and the skin or rind both smooth and cool to the hand.

151. Stuffed and Roasted Pork — Take a small loin, three tablespoons bread crumbs, one finely-chopped onion, half a tea- spoon chopped sage, or summer-savory if preferred, the same of salt and same of pepper, one ounce chopped beef suet, and one tablespoon of drippings. Have each joint of the loin perfectly separated with a cleaver, to carve easily, and make an incision with a knife into the thick part of the meat in which to place the stuffing, which prepare as follows: Mix the bread crumbs with the onions thoroughly, add to this the sage or summer-savory, pepper, salt and suet ; when thoroughly mixed press into the incisions made in the pork, and sew together with coarse thread the edges of the meat to keep in the stuffing; grease a stiff sheet of paper with drippings, place the loin into this, securing it with twine; bake in a dry baking-pan, in a quick oven, basting constantly as the grease draws out ; allow twenty minutes to the pound, and twenty minutes over. The conventional apple sauce may be varied by serving apple fritters (see No. 92 or 93) with this dish, if preferred.

152. Roast Spare-rib — After trimming off the rough ends, crack the ribs through the middle, rub with salt and pepper, fold over where cracked, and stuff same as roast pork (see No. 151), sew up tighly, put in the 'dripping-pan with a pint of water, with which baste frequently, turning once, so as to bake both sides evenly, until a rich brown.

153. Roast Sucking Pig — One not less than six weeks old, which has been nicely dressed as follows : It should be scored across the back from head to tail, the tail run under the near scores, the ears sewed together by the tips back of the head, the knees bent and run under scores, and before baking, a cracker placed into its mouth. Rub lard all over the surface, and make a stuffiing for it as follows : Take two quarts of corn meal, salted as if for bread, mix to a stiff dough with hot water, put into pan and bake ; after it is done, break up and add to it a quarter of a pound of butter, pepper to taste, and also some thyme, sweet marjorum or sage, as fancied. Fill the pig with the stuff- ing until round and plump, and sew it up ; place it on its knees in the pan, which fill with as much water as will be required to baste it frequently until done. Turn while roasting the same as a turkey. Make a gravy of the drippings left in the pan, first straining through a sieve made very hot, and thicken with flour or corn-starch, lastly adding a little hot water, if not sufficient ; also sprinkle in a tablespoon of parsley, finely chopped, and a teaspoon of summer savory.

154. Fried Pork Steaks — Fry like beefsteaks, with pepper and salt. If a sausage flavor is liked, sprinkle in a little powdered sage or summer savory.

155. Pork Chops— Are usually fried, but if broiled, trim off most of the fat, and the meat for three inches from the small end, neatly; cook them thoroughly through, turning frequently; put on a hot platter; salt, pepper, and if most of the fat has been removed, butter them. Garnish the platter with sprigs of parsley around the edge.

156. Pork Tenderloins — The tenderloins are unlike any other part of the pork in flavor. They may be either fried or broiled; the latter being dryer, require to be well buttered before serving, which should be done on a hot platter before the butter becomes oily. Fry them in a little lard, turning them to have them cooked through; when done, remove, and keep hot while making a gravy by dredging a little flour into the hot fat; if not enough add a little butter or lard, stir until browned, and add a little milk or cream, stir briskly, and pour over the dish. A little Worcestershire sauce may be added to the gravy if desired. ^

157. Fried Salt Pork — Cut in thin slices, and freshen in cold milk or milk and water, roll in flour and fry crisp. If required quickly, pour boiling water over the slices, let stand a few minutes, drain and roll in flour as before ; drain off most of the grease from the frying- pan; stir in while hot one or two tablespoons flour, about half a pint milk, a little pepper, and salt if over freshened ; let it boil, and pour into a gravy dish. A teaspoon of finely-chopped parsley will add pleasantly to the appearance of the gravy.

158. Fried Salt Pork — Cook same as directed for fried tripe (No. 121).

159. Grilled Salt Pork — Take quite thin slices of the thick part of side pork, of a clear white, and thinly streaked with lean ; hold one on a toasting fork before a brisk fire to grill ;' have at hand a dish of cold water, in which immerse it frequently while cooking, to remove the superfluous fat and render it more delicate. Put each slice as cooked in a warm covered pan ; when all are done serve hot.

• 160. Yankee Pork and Beans — Pick over carefully a quart of small wThite beans, let them soak over night ; in the morning wash and drain in another water; put on to boil in cold water with half a teaspoon soda. Boil about thirty minutes ; when they are done, the skin of a bean will crack if taken out and blown upon. Drain and put in an earthen pot, first a slice of pork and then the beans, with two or three tablespoons molasses. When all are in, put in the center, half to three-quarters of a pound of well-washed salt pork, with the rind uppermost, and scored across or in squares, season with pepper, and salt if needed, cover all with hot water, and bake six hours or longer in a moderate oven, adding hot water as needed by evaporation, to keep them moist. They cannot be baked too long if this is done. Keep them covered so they will not burn on the top, but remove the cover an hour or so before serving, to brown the top and crisp the pork.

Note— The best hams have a thin skin, with solid fat and a small, short tapering leg or shank, and should weigh from eight to fifteen pounds PTesSt thfm by running a steel or knife along ^ fleshy stde dose to the bone; if it comes out clean it is good, if smeared it is tainted.

161. Boiled Ham-Take a ham, say of ten to twelve pounds nour boiling water over it, and let it cool enough to wash and scrape it dean- put if in a perfectly clean boiler, with cold water to cover it; bring f to the boi ing point, when place it on the back part of the stove or range to sSmefsfeadiiy six or seven hours, or nntil it is tender, when tested with a fork. Be careful to keep the water at a low boiling point and do not allow it to get much above it. If not suspended in the pot —the better way— the ham should be turned once or twice m the water. When done pla'ce in a large pan to skin; dip the hands in co d ^ter take the skin between finger and thumb, and PuV°^Td™w.2d- knuckle. Set it in a moderate oven, placing the lean side downward and if you wish it breaded, sift over it powdered crackers and bake one hour. Baking brings out a great quantity of fat,_leaving the meat more delicate, anf the lam will keep much longer in warm weaker If before it is used there is a tendency to mould, set it in the oven again for a short time.

162. Broiled Ham— Cut the ham in slices of medium thick- ness place on a hot gridiron, and broil until the fat readdy flows out Td 'the meat is slightly browned; take it from the gnduon w. h a knife and fork, and drop into a pan of cold water, then return again to £e gridiron repeat several times, and the ham is done. Place on a hot clatter spread it with sufficient butter, and serve quickly. If the ham & too fat trim off a part. It is very difficult to broil ham without burn- ing the fat, but this does not impair the flavor. Slices of salt-pork or bacon may also be cooked in same way.

163. Broiled Ham-Shave off from a good firm ham several slices of about a quarter inch in thickness; trim off nearly all the fat around the edge; put it on a wire broiler over a brisk charcoal or coke fire, and cook quickly; closely watch, and turn the .gridiron . whenev* £ is likely to burn. If cut as directed, a slice will be cooked in three to four minutes, when place it in a hot pan, butter it and cover When all are done, arrange the slices neatly upon a hot platter, and serve quickly, with hot plates.

164. Fried Ham and Eggs-Place the slices in boiling water and cook until tender; put them in a frying-pan to brown, and dish on a platter. Fry some eggs by dipping gravy over them ^^d^f/ "^Jf^ of turning. Take up carefully without breaking, and lay upon the slices of hams.

CTJ o

Veal — The veal of calves from four to six weeks old is the best; if younger it is unwholesome, and if older it is apt to be too lean. The meat should be clear and firm, and the fat white. If dark and thin, it is not good. The hind-quarter is the choicest joint, and is divided into the loin and leg. The neck or fore-quarter is used for fricassees and stews, and for pies or chops.

165. Roast Loin of Veal — Wash and rub it well with salt and pepper, leaving in the kidney, around which put considerable salt. Roll it up (the ribs having been well cracked), let it stand two hours, and during that time make a stuffing of bread crumbs, moistened with a little hot water and butter, or chopped salt pork if preferred, and also an egg, Unroll the loin, put the stuffing well around the kidney, fold and secure with several coils white cotton twine wound around in all directions; place in the dripping pan with the thick side down, and put in a rather hot oven, graduated after it commences to roast to moderate ; in half an hour add a little hot water to the pan, and baste often; in another half hour turn over the roast, and when about done, dredge lightly with flour and baste with melted butter. Before serving carefully remove the twine. A roast of four to five pounds will bake in about two hours. For a gravy, skim off some of the fat if there is too much in the drippings, dredge in some flour, stir until brown, add some hot water if necessary, boil a few minutes, stir in such sweet herbs as fancied, and put in a gravy boat. Serve with green peas and lemon jelly. Is very nice sliced cold for lunch, and Worcestershire or Chili sauce forms a fine relish.

166. Gravy for Roast Veal — Mix one dessertspoon of dry mustard, one teaspoon salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, half teaspoon celery-salt, with one tablespoon of butter. When all are well stirred together, add the yelks of two eggs; beat well and stir into a cup of hot sweet cream; stir all together over a tea-kettle until it thickens like a custard, then take from the fire and add two tablespoons vinegar.

167. Roast Veal Pie — Cut cold roast veal into slices, with the stuffing, and lay in a deep dish, adding pepper and salt; dredge lightly with flour, and put in the gravy that was left and a little hot water added to it. A dish holding three pints will require a cup of gravy. Cover the top with a crust made of one pint flour with two tea- spoons baking powder sifted through it, add a piece of butter half the size of an egg, rubbing into the flour with the hand; wet with sweet milk enough to make a dough as soft as can be handled. When made, score the crust in the center; put it over the dish, and bake in a brisk oven. Serve in the dish in which it is baked, set upon a round soup or cake plate.

168. Veal Cutlets-— Fry the cutlets brown in sweet lard or beef drippings; dip in a batter made of half a pint of milk, a well-beaten egg and flour, and fry again; also drop spoonfuls of the batter in the lard after the veal is taken up; take them out to serve on top of the meat; put a little flour paste in the gravy with salt and pepper, let it come to a boil, and pour over the whole. The veal should be cut thin, pounded, and cooked nearly an hour.

169. Veal Stew — Boil two pounds and a half of the breast of veal one hour in water enough to cover, add a dozen potatoes, and cook half an hour; before taking off the stove add a pint of milk and flour enough to thicken; season to taste.

170. Ragout of Veal — Cut cold veal cutlets into small pieces; put a piece of butter as large as a walnut in a frying-pan, and when hot, drop in the veal and stir a few minutes; dredge in a little flour, and then pour in a cup of stock made by boiling the bone and dry bits of veal; season with salt and pepper, and let it boil up; then add four cold, boiled potatoes cut in slices; rub the platter with a clove of garlic, and pour the ragout on it.

171. Veal Pot Pie — Put two or three pounds of veal — that from the loin or breast is best, but other parts may be used — cut in a dozen pieces, and put into a quart of cold water; make a quart of soda biscuit dough, take two thirds of it, roll a quarter inch thick; cut into strips an inch wide by three long; pare and slice six potatoes; boil the veal until tender, and take out all the bone, leaving three or four pieces, put in two handsful potatoes and several strips of dough, then add veal and dough, seasoning with salt and pepper, and a little butter, until all the veal is in the pot; add boiling water enough to cover; make a crust out of the remaining dough, slit the center to let steam escape, and place over the whole. Put on a tight lid and boil gently twenty or thirty minutes without uncovering.

172. Veal with Oysters — Cut two pounds tender veal into thin bits, dredge with flour, and fry in. sufficient hot lard to prevent sticking. When nearly done, add a pint and a half fine oysters; thicken with flour, season with salt and pepper, and cook until done. Serve in a covered dish, hot.

173. Veal Toast — One cup chopped veal, one cup hot water, a piece of butter as large as a butternut, one teaspoon salt, and one- fourth teaspoon pepper; have ready on a platter slices of bread nicely toasted brown, and buttered; if the crusts are hard, dip the edges in hot water; when the minced veal is quite hot, pour it on the toast.

174. Cold Veal and Tomatoes — Arrange delicate slices of cold roast veal on a platter, put over them peeled and sliced raw tomatoes, and pour over the dish a salad dressing made as follows : Rub to a powder with a silver spoon the yelks of two hard-boiled eggs,

-add half a teaspoon salt and the same each of pepper, white sugar and dry English mustard. When these are all well mixed with the egg, add

two tablespoons of best salad oil, stirring in gradually, and when well mixed put in half a cup of vinegar. All should be very cold, and so kept until served.

175. Veal Patties — Cut portions of the neck or breast of veal into small pieces, and, with a little salt pork cut fine, stew gently for ten or fifteen minutes; season with pepper and salt and a small piece of celery chopped coarsely, also of the yellow top, picked (not chopped) up; stir in a paste made of a tablespoon flour, the yelk of one egg, and milk to make a thin batter; let all come to a boil, and it is ready for the patties. Make the patties of a light, flaky crust, as for tarts; cut round, the size of a small sauceplate; the center of each, for about three inches, cut half way through, to be raised and serve as a cover. Put a spoon- ful of the stew in each crust, lay on it the top, and serve. Stewed oysters or lamb may be used in place of veal.

176. Sweetbreads— There are two in a calf, which are con- sidered delicacies. Select the largest. The color should be clear and a shade darker than the fat. Before cooking in any manner let them lie for half an hour in tepid water ; then throw into hot water to whiten and harden, after which draw off the outer casing, remove the little pipes, and cut into thin slices. They should always be thoroughly cooked.

177. Broiled Sweetbreads — After preparing as above, spread plenty of butter over them, and broil on a fine wire gridiron over hot charcoals, turning often.

178. Fried Sweetbreads — Parboil five minutes, wipe dry, lard them with narrow strips of fat salt pork with a larding needle, taking deep, long stitches, or they will break out. Put a very little butter or lard in a frying-pan, and lay in the sweetbreads when hot ; fry to a crisp brown, turning them often.

179. Fricasseed Sweetbreads — If they are uncooked, cut into thin slices, let them simmer in a rich gravy for three-quarters of an hour, add a well-beaten egg, two tablespoons cream and a table- spoon chopped parsley ; stir all together for a few minutes and serve immediately.

180. Sweetbreads with Green Peas — Lard five sweetbreads as above directed, letting the strips of pork project half an inch evenly on the upper side, put in a saucepan with half a pint water, and let stew slowly for half an hour ; take out and put in a small dripping- pan, with a little butter and a sprinkling of flour, brown slightly, add half a gill of mingled milk and water, season with pepper ; heat a half pint cream and stir it in the gravy in the pan. Have the peas ready boiled and seasoned, place the sweetbreads in the center of the dish, pour the gravy over them, and put the peas around them.

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