POULTRY AND GAME

181. Baked Chicken — Split them lengthwise, soak half an hour in cold water, wipe perfectly dry, and put in a dripping-pan, bone side down, without any water; if the oven is hot and the chickens young, should be done in half an hour. Take out and season with salt, pepper and butter; place one above another closely, and place in a pan of boiling water, covering them closely to keep them moist until served; mean- time boil the giblets in a little water, and after the chickens are taken out of the dripping-pan, pour in the giblet water; thicken it, and having chopped the giblets, add them to it, making the gravy to serve with chickens. Is fully equal to broiled chicken.

182. Baked Chicken with Parsnips— Wash, scrape and quarter a few parsnips; parboil for twenty minutes; prepare a young chicken by splitting open at back; place in a dripping-pan, the skin side up, lay parsnips around the chicken, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add an egg-sized lump of butter, or two or three slices nice pickled pork; put enough water in the pan to prevent burning, place in oven and bake until both chickens and parsnips are done a delicate brown. Serve the chicken separately on a platter, pouring the gravy in the pan over the parsnips.

183. Boiled Chicken — A pair are usually boiled. Dress and truss with wooden skewers, or tie the legs with twine; stuff with a stuffing made of bread and butter moistened with milk, flavor with a little parsley or summer-savory; suspend them in a pot to boil an hour, or until done. Make an egg sauce sprinkled with chopped parsley to serve with it. Also serve a slice of boiled bacon, ham or salt pork to each plate at table.

184. To Broil Chicken or Quails — Cut the bird open in the back; lay on the meat board until it will lay flat; put on a gridiron over a good bed of coals, and broil until a nice brown, but do not burn. It will take twenty or thirty minutes to cook thoroughly, and will do so much better if covered with a pie-tin held down by a weight, so that it will lie close to the gridiron. While it is broiling, put the giblets in a stewpan, and boil in a pint of water until tender; chop fine, and add flour, butter, salt and pepper; also stir in a cup of sweet cream. When done, dip birds in this gravy, and let boil for half a minute; send to table quite hot.

185. Fried Spring Chicken— Put in the frying-pan on the stove about half a tablespoon each of lard and butter; when hot, lay in the chicken cut open on the back, and sprinkle with flour, salt and pepper; cover over and cook over a moderate fire; when a light brown turn it over and again sprinkle with flour, salt and pepper; if necessary add more lard and butter, and cook slowly until done; make a gravy

as for baked chicken in No. 181; or, the following is a rich and very nice gravy without cream: Take the yelk of an egg, beat up light, strain and stir slowly into the gravy after the flour and milk have been stirred in and thoroughly cooked; as soon as it boils up it is done.

186. Fricasseed Chicken — Cut up and put on to boil, skin side down, in a small quantity of water; season with pepper and salt, also slices of onion if liked; stew gently until tender; remove the chicken, and add half a pint of milk or cream to the gravy; thicken with butter and flour rubbed smoothly together in a little of the gravy; let it boil a few minutes; add a little chopped parsley, and serve. A few slices of clear white celery from the bottom of the stalk may be added, if that flavor is liked.

187. Fricasseed Chicken — Put the chicken cut up, in a sauce pan with barely enough water to cover it, stew gently until tender; have a frying-pan prepared with a few slices of salt pork; drain the chicken and fry with pork until a rich brown; then take out of the pan and put in the broth in which the chicken was stewed, thicken with browned flour mixed smooth with a little water, and season with pepper. Put the chicken and pork back in the gravy, let it simmer a few minutes, and serve very hot.

188. Chicken Lunch for Traveling — Cut a young chicken down the back; wash and wipe dry; season with salt and pepper; put in a dripping-pan, and bake in a moderate oven three-quarters of an hour. This is much better for traveling lunch than when seasoned with butter.

189. Chicken Pie — Cut up two young chickens, in hot water enough to cover them, and as the water boils out add more, so as to have enough for the pie, and also for a gravy to serve with it; boil until tender; line the sides of a four or six-quart pan with a rich baking powder or soda-biscuit dough a quarter inch thick, put in part of the chicken, season with salt, pepper and butter, lay on a few thin strips or squares of dough, add the rest of the chicken and season as before; five or six fresh eggs beaten, or a few new potatoes in their season, may be also added. Take the liquor in which the chicken was boiled, with butter, salt and pepper, add a part of it to the pie, and cover with the crust rolled a quarter inch thick, with a hole in the center the size of a tea-cup. Keep adding the broth as needed, and plentiful, as there cannot be too much of the gravy. Bake about an hour in a moderate oven. If the flavor of celery is liked, a few inside layers or slices of the bottom of the stalk may be put in with the strips of dough. In that case, garnish the top of the pie with small, bright celery leaves, neatly arranged in a circle.

190. Chicken Pot Pie— Take two young chickens, joint and cut up; then prepare and cook as directed for Veal Pot Pie. See No. 171.

191. Chicken Puree— Pick into small bits, cold roast or boiled chicken; season with salt and pepper. Boil the bones and skin in enough water to cover; strain and return to the fire. When it boils>

stir in for each cupful of the stock a small teaspoon flour rubbed in one teaspoon butter: add a little celery-salt, and stir in the meat. Serve with small triangles of bread previously fried crisp in very hot lard.

192. Salmi of Chicken — Cut cold chicken into small bits, and heat in enough drawn butter to make it quite moist; season with pepper and celery-salt: when hot take from the fire, add a well-beaten egg and a teaspoon lemon juice. Cover the bottom of a covered dish with bread crumbs and pour in the chicken; sift crumbs over the top, stick bits of butter over it, and bake until brown. The gravy left from the chicken can be used instead of the drawn butter if desired.

193. Chicken and Oyster Croquettes— Take one cup cold chicken chopped very fine, one saucerful of cold scalloped oysters, also chopped; half a cup sifted bread crumbs, pepper, salt and a little mace, one egg beaten lightly; add a little broth made of the bones of the chicken, boiled in just water enough to cover them. Have the mix- ture as soft as can be handled (an experienced cook can handle it much softer than a novice). Form into long rolls as large as a finger; roll in sifted crumbs and fry in very hot lard. Serve with slices of lemon.

194. Chicken Salad without Celery — Cut cold chicken in small bits, or tear it into shreds; mix with it an equal quantity of nice raw cabbage chopped fine; season with pepper and celery salt. Prepare a dressing by beating the yelks of four eggs; add to these half a cup butter, half a cup cream, half a gill vinegar, and one heaping spoon prepared mustard; put this mixture into a bowl over a tea-kettle, or in a hot pan of water; stir until it is thicker than boiled custard, and take from the fire. Take part of the dressing and thin it with vinegar until it can be easily mixed with the chicken and cabbage. Pour over the top the remainder of the dressing. Some like a little sugar in the dressing.

195. Roast Turkey with Oyster Stuffing — Dress and rub

the turkey well, inside and out, with salt and pepper; truss or twine it; put in a steamer and steam two hours, or until it begins to grow tender, lifting the cover occasionally and sprinkling lightly with salt; then take out, loosen the legs, and rub the inside again with salt and pepper. Make the stuffing as follows: Take a loaf of stale bread, cut off the crust and soften it in a pan with boiling water; drain off immediately and cover closely; crumble the soft part of the bread very fine, and add a half pound of melted butter, or more if to be very rich, and a teaspoon each of salt and pepper, or enough to season rather highly. Drain off the liquor from a quart of nice oysters, bring to a boil, skim and pour over the bread crumbs, adding the soaked crust and one or two eggs; mix all thoroughly with the hands, and if too dry, moisten with a little milk; lastly, add the oysters, being careful not to break them; or first put in a spoonful of stuffing and then three or four oysters, and so on until the turkey is filled, stuffing the breast first. Flour a small cloth and place over the openings, tying down with twine; spread the turkey all over with butter, salt and pepper; place in a dripping-pan in a well

heated oven; add half a pint water, and roast two hours, basting often with a little water, butter, salt and pepper, kept warm in tin placed on the back of the stove. A swab is better than a spoon to baste with. Turn until nicely browned on all sides, and about half an hour before it is done, baste with butter alone and dredge with a little flour, which will give the turkey a frothy appearance. When the turkey is dished, if there is much fat in the pan, pour off most of it and add the giblets, together with the water in which they have previously been cooked until tender, now stewed down to about a pint; place one or two heap- ing tablespoons flour (half of it browned flour) in a pint bowl, mix smooth in a little cream or milk, and add to the gravy in the pan; boil several minutes, constantly stirring and pour into a gravy tureen. Serve with currant or apple jelly. This is an excellent way to cook a large turkey; while, from being steamed, it does not make so good an appear- ance at table, it will prove very tender and palatable.

196. Roast Turkey, English Style — Kill several days before cooking, and let it hang by the legs until used. Prepare in the usual manner; stuff with bread crumbs — rejecting the crust — rubbed fine, moistened with butter and two eggs, and seasoned with salt, pepper, parsley, sage and sweet marjoram; sew up, truss and place to roast in a rack within a dripping-pan; spread with bits of butter, turn it and baste frequently with butter, pepper, salt and water; a few minutes before it is done glaze over with the white of an egg; take up the turkey, pour off most of the fat, add the chopped giblets and the water in which they were boiled, which thicken with flour and butter rubbed together; stir all in the dripping pan, let it boil once well, and serve in a gravy boat. Serve with celery-sauce and stewed gooseberries. Garnish with fried oysters. Select a turkey of eight to ten pounds. If in roasting it is likely to brown too much, cover with a white paper, buttered.

197. Boned Turkey — With a sharp knife slit the skin down the back, and raising one side at a time with the fingers, separate the flesh from the bones with a knife until the wings and legs are reached. These unjoint from the body, and cutting through to the bone, turn back the flesh and remove the bones. When the bones are removed the flesh may be reshaped by stuffing. Some leave the bones in the wings and legs, as they are quite difficult to remove. Stuff with a force- meat made of cold lamb or veal, and a little pork chopped fine and seasoned with salt, pepper, sage or savory, and the juice of one lemon; sew into shape, turn the ends of the wings under, and press the legs close to the back, and tie all firmly, so that the upper surface may be plump and smooth for the carver. Lard with two or three rows on the top; bake until thoroughly done, basting often with salt and water and a little butter. This is a difficult dish to attempt by any but skillful cooks. Carve across in slices, and serve with tomato sauce.

198. Boiled Turkey Stuffed with Oysters— Wash it thor- oughly and rub salt through it; fill with a stuffing of bread and butter, moistened with milk and seasoned with sage, salt and pepper, mixed with a pint raw oysters; tie the legs and wings close to the body, place in salted boiling water with the breast downward; skim often; boil

about two hours, but not till the skin breaks; serve with oyster sauce. Boil a piece of nicely-pickled salt pork, and serve at table a thin slice to each plate. Some use bacon or ham instead of pork.

199. Roast Goose — The goose should not be more than eight months old, and the fatter the more tender and juicy the meat. A " green goose," about four months old, is the choicest. Kill at least twenty- four hours before cooking; dress and stuff; prepare a gravy as directed for roast duck, tame or wild (see No. 212.) Bake two hours or more. If an old goose it will have red and hairy legs, and should be par-boiled; if too old, is unfit for the table.

200. Deviled Goose — Take the legs and wings of cold roast goose; broil them on a gridiron until heated through; have ready a little butter, pepper, salt and English mustard, and one tablespoon sharp wine or cider vinegar, all mixed together. Turn this over the goose and serve hot.

201. Roast Duck— (See Roast Duck, Tame or Wild, No. 212.)

202. A Stuffing for Ducks, Chickens or Beef— Prepare some boiled and mashed potatoes, as if for the table; except they should be rather dryer, stuff the chickens (or a roast of beef) with this, and bake them as usual. For ducks add finely chopped onion. If a bread dressing is also desired, it may be cooked in the corner of the pan.

203. Boiled Duck — Dress and rub inside with salt and pepper; truss and tie in shape, drawing the legs into the body, in which put one or two leaves of sage, a little finely-chopped onion and a little jellied stock or gravy; rub over with salt and pepper; make a paste in the pro- portion of one-half pound of butter to one pound of flour, in which enclose the duck; tie a cloth around all, and boil two hours or until quite tender, keeping it well covered with boiling water. Make a brown gravy, as follows: Put an egg-sized lump of butter in a sauce-pan, with a little minced onion; cook until slightly brown, and add a small tablespoon flour; stir well, and when quite brown add a half pint of stock or water. Let cook a few minutes, strain and add the chopped giblets which have been previously stewed tender.

204. Duck Pie — Cut all the meat from cold roast ducks; put the bones and stuffing into cold water; cover them and let boil; put the meat into a deep dish, pour on enough of the stock made from the bones to moisten; cover with pastry slit in the center with a knife and bake a light brown.

205. Deviled Turkey — Cut gashes in the legs and upper joints of cold roast turkey, and rub in pepper, salt and mustard (some use curry powder also); heat them through on a gridiron. Serve very hot.

Note. — The rule for cooking is for all white-meated game to be cooked well done, and dark-meated, under done or rare. The general taste will, however, require all to be well cooked. The keeping of game hanging for some time will make it more tender, and bring out the

flavor so highly appreciated by the epicure, but not so well favored by a majority of the community.

206. Venison — When young, the fat is thick, clear and close, and the meat a reddish brown. It first begins to taint near the haunches; test by running in a knife or steel; if tainted, there will be a rank smell and a greenish appearance. It may, however, be kept a long time by the following process: Wash it well in milk and water, and dry perfectly with a cloth; then dust ground black pepper over every part. The flesh of the doe about four years old is the sweetest and best. Either the haunch, neck, shoulder or saddle should be roasted, the breast broiled, and fry or broil the steaks with salt pork. Being a rather lean meat, roasts require much larding. The steaks require more cooking than for beef.

207. Saddle of Venison — Use a saddle of venison of about ten pounds. Cut some salt pork in strips about two inches long and an eighth of an inch thick, with which lard the saddle, with two rows on each side. In a large dripping-pan cut two carrots, one onion, and some salt pork in thin slices; add two bay leaves, two cloves, four kernels of allspice, half a lemon, sliced, and season with salt and pepper; place the saddle of venison in the pan, with a quart of good stock and a small piece of butter, and let it boil about fifteen minutes on top of the stove; then put it in a hot oven and bake, basting well every five minutes, until it is medium rare, so that the blood runs when cut; serve with jelly or a wine sauce. If the venison is desired well done, cook much longer, and use a cream sauce with it. — Grand Pacific Hotel, Chicago.

208. Roast Haunch of Venison — Wash in warm water and dry with a cloth; butter a sheet of white paper and put over the fat; lay it in a deep baking-dish, with a very little hot water; cover with a close-fitting lid or with a coarse paste half an inch thick, smeared even- ly over the top; if the latter is used, lay over it one or two sheets of coarse paper. Cook in a moderate oven for three to four hours, ac- cording to the size of the haunch; about twenty minutes before it is done quicken the fire a little, remove the dish cover (or paper and paste), dredge with flour, and baste well with butter until nicely frothed and of a delicate brown; garnish the knuckle bone with a frill of white paper, and serve with a gravy made from its own drippings, the platter and plates very hot. Currant jelly is the conventional relish with roast venison.

209. Roast Wild Goose — As a rule wild geese have a strong or fishy flavor, and are inferior to wild duck. If you have one, how- ever, dress and cook same as for tame roast goose (No. 199).

210. Wild Ducks — There are many varieties of ducks peculiar to different sections, of which the canvas-back, mallard, teal, and at the South the red-head, are leading favorites. Young ducks are tender under the wings and have transparent webs; wild ducks have reddish legs, and tame ones yellow. If wild ducks are fishy, they should be

scalded in salt and water before washing, and if old, they should be parboiled.

212. Roast Duck (Tame or Wild) — Cut the neck close to the back, beat the breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin, tie the wings and legs securely, and stuff with the following : Three pints bread crumbs, six ounces butter, or part butter and salt pork, two chopped onions and one teaspoon each of sage, black pepper and salt. Do not stuff very full, and sew up the openings firmly to keep the flavor in and the fat out. If not fat enough it should be larded with salt pork or tie a slice upon the breast. Place in a baking-pan, with a little water, and baste frequently with salt and water — some add onion and some vinegar — turn often, so that the sides and back may all be nicely browned. When nearly done, baste with butter and a little flour. These directions will apply to tame geese as well as ducks. Young ducks should roast from twenty-five to thirty minutes, and full-grown ones for an hour or more, with frequent basting. If quite old, parboil a few minutes before roasting. Some prefer them underdone, but served very hot; but, as a rule, thorough cooking will prove more palat- able. Serve with currant jelly or apple sauce and green peas.

213. Game Pie — Family Style (For io persons) — Clean well inside and out, about two dozen small birds — quail, snipe, woodcock, etc. — and split them in half; put them in a saucepan, with some soup stock or beef broth, if you have it; if not, use a gallon of cold water; put over a hot fire, and when it boils skim off allscum that rises; then add a little salt, pepper, ground cloves, mace, one bay leaf, two small carrots, and one onion, with three cloves stuck in it. Add half a pound of salt pork cut into dice, and let all boil until tender; use care that there be enough broth to cover the birds.

Put in another saucepan a quarter pound of butter, with two table- spoons browned flour; mix it well, and stir it into a part of the broth or gravy, making a thin sauce; strain off the rest of the broth, and remove the vegetables and spices, which add to the sauce. Cut some potatoes into small dice, about the same quantity as meat, and put all into a deep dish or bowl; cover with a paste or dough, and bake slowly. The baking may be done in small vegetable dishes, forming a pie for each person. — Grand Pacific Hotel, Chicago.

214. Roast Prairie Chicken or Pheasant—Carefully cut out all the shot, wash thoroughly but quickly, using some soda in the water, rinse and dry ; stuff, sew up and tie down, or skewer through the legs and wings. Place in a steamer over hot water until tender, then remove to a dripping-pan, cover with butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, place in the oven, and baste with melted but- ter until a nice brown. Serve with either apple-sauce, cranberries or currant jelly.

215. Broiled Pheasant or Prairie Chicken — Scald and skin, cut off the breast, and the rest up in joints, being careful to remove all shot; put in hot water, all except the breast, and boil until it can be

easily pierced with a fork; take out, rub over with salt, pepper and butter, and broil with the breast over a brisk fire; take out, place a lump of but- ter on each piece, and set all in the oven a few minutes.

Squirrels may be prepared in this manner, but with no separation of the meat.

216. Roast Quails — Pluck and dress like chicken, wipe clean, and rub both inside and out with salt and pepper; stuff with any of the stuffings fancied for poultry or game, and sew up ; spread them with butter, and place in a hot oven with a good, steady heat, turning and basting often with hot salted water, butter and pepper. Bake three-quarters of an hour. When about half done, add a little hot water to the pan, and also place another dripping-pan over them to prevent browning too much; add to the gravy in the pan flour and butter rubbed together, and water if needed.

217. Quail on Toast — Dry, pick and singe them with paper; cut off the head, and the legs at first joint; draw and split them down the back; sOak in salted water for five or ten minutes; drain and dry with a cloth; lard them with bacon or butter, and rub salt over them; place on a broiler and turn often, dipping two or three times into melted butter; broil about twenty minutes. Have ready as many slices of nicely buttered toast as there are birds, and place one on each slice, breast upwards. All should go to table hot' and with hot plates.

218. Reed Birds — Roast before an open fire, suspended by a wire or string, and kept turning (or, put in a row on a skewer and use an English bottle-jack), let drip in a pan, basting. This is the Southern method and the best. Or, they may be boiled in a crust like dumplings.

219. Reed Birds Au Pomme de Terre — Wash and peel very thinly quite large potatoes of equal size; cut a deep slice off one end of each, and scoop out a hole large enough to contain a bird; drop a bit of butter into each bird, with pepper and salt, and put one into the hole of each potato, putting on as covers the slices cut off; clip off the other end so they will stand upright. When so arranged set in a baking pan with a little water to prevent burning; bake slowly and serve in the same dish.

220. Snipe — Are best roasted with a piece of salt pork tied on to the breast; or, they may be stuffed and baked like quail; or, broiled same as woodcock.

221. Woodcock — Of all game birds this outranks in tender- ness and delicacy of flavor, the thigh being the tidbit.

To Broil — Split them through the back, basting with butter, and serve on toast, the beak under the wing.

To Roast — Split them, place in a Dutch oven before an open fire, and bake for fifteen or twenty minutes, as fancied, under or well done.

* 222. Fried Woodcock — Dress, wipe clean; tie the legs; skin the head and neck; turn the beak under the wing and tie it; tie a piece of bacon over it, and immerse in boiling fat two or three minutes. Serve on browned toast, nicely trimmed and buttered.

223. Squirrels — There are many species common to this country, among them the black, red, gray and fox. Gophers and chipmunks may also be classed as another, but smaller variety. They should be carefully skinned and laid in salt water a short time before cooking; if old, should be parboiled. They are fine when broiled, the hind quarters being the choicest parts, unless when in the fall they are fat and full breasted. Are excellent cooked in any other way, with thin slices of pork. They are also delicious when made into a pie, like Veal or Chicken.

224. Rabbits — They are in the best condition in mid-winter, and may be fricasseed, like chicken, in white or brov/n sauce, or made like a chicken pie.

225. Roast Rabbits— Stuff with a stuffing made of bread crumbs, chopped salt pork, thyme, onion, pepper and salt; sew up; rub over with a little butter, or secure in it a few slices salt pork; add some water in the pan, and baste often. Serve mashed potatoes and currant jelly with it.

226# Pigeons — Should be cooked a long time, as they are usually quite lean and tough, except the squabs or young ones, and are better to lie in salt water half an hour before cooking; if old, parboil. Are nice roasted, or made into a pie, or the breast broiled.

327. Pigeon Pot Pie — Prepare and cook same as Veal Poi-pie. See No. 171.

228. Compote of Pigeons (For 10 persons)— Use one dozen dressed pigeons. Cut up some vegetables very thin, and put in a roast- ing pan with thih rashers of salt pork and some spices; lay in the pigeons, breast upwards, and sprinkle them with salt and pepper; bake in a hot oven, turning them over once or twice, until a nice brown; dredge with a little flour, and brown again. Remove the pigeons to a stewpan, and strain the gravy, to add to the pigeons; if not sufficient, use some beef broth, to make enough to cover them, and cook until done; then cut some salt pork in small strips, fry them well in a pan, and drain off the fat; add the pork to the pigeons, and serve on toast. — Grand Pacific Hotel, Chicago.

229. Broiled Plover — Split through the back and broil over a hot fire, basting frequently with butter. When done, place a bit of butter on each piece, and set in the oven a few minutes to brown. Serve on pieces of buttered toast, with currant jelly.

A Hint to Sportsmen. — To those who may wish to keep^ prairie chickens, pheasants or other game birds in very hot weather, or to ship long distances, it may prove of value to learn the best manner of doing so. Draw the birds as soon as killed ; force down the throat two or three whole peppers, tying a string around just above them ; sprinkle inside a little powdered charcoal, and fill the cavity of the body with very dry grass — green or wet grass, being heating, will hasten decay. If birds are to be shipped without drawing, force a piece of charcoal into the vent, tie a string close around the neck to exclude the air, and make a loop in the string to hang up by. Thus prepared, will bear ship- ment a long distance.

Heath & Milligan

"Best" Prepared Paints

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The subject of successfully ornamenting our houses by using divers cofored paints on the same building having during the past three years become a study, we, in order to meet the demand, have added to our "BEST" PREPARED PAINTS one tint after another, until now we manufacture seventy-five distinct, beau- tiful, rich and attractive shades. This spring we have brought out some rare tints which are very fashionable, and which are exceedingly tasty and pleasing. From this variety of tints one cannot fail to make a suitable and satisfactory selection, and to be able to make an almost endless number of effective and har- monious combinations. As to the quality of our goods, we would say they are made from pure material, and we guarantee them to cover as much surface as Strictly Pure White Lead and Linseed Oil; to impart a much finer and more beautiful finish, and to greatly surpass it in durability. They wear without cracking, chalking or peeling off, and weather exposure has but little effect upon them. They give universal satisfaction, and are commended by all who have used them.

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HEATH & MILLIGAN MFG. CO,

170-174 Randolph St., Chicago, 111.

Note, — When fish are fresh, the eyes are full and bright, the gills a fine, clear red, the body stiff, and the smell not unpleasant. The flavor and excellence of salmon is especially dependent on its freshness: Mackerel should be freshly caught, or are nearly worthless. Nearly all the larger fish are usually boiled, the medium-sized baked or boiled, and smaller kinds fried. The very large ones, as cod, halibut, etc., are cut in steaks or slices for frying or broiling. The heads of some fish, as the cod, halibut, etc. are considered tidbits by many. Brook- trout and smelts should be served with the heads, and most other pan- fish, without. As regards others, the heads are cooked and served simply for appearance, it being a matter of fancy whether they are served or not. Fish is less nutritious than meats, salmon excepted, which is very hearty. The white kinds are least nutritious, and the oily kinds the more difficult of digestion. All fish should be well done and served quite hot.

230. Boiled Fish— General Directions— ¥ or this purpose a regular fish-kettle is very convenient. It is of oblong form, occupying the place of two holes on a stove or range, and contains a perforated tin rack (5r plate, with a long handle at each end, and resting on the feet a few inches above the bottom. On this the fish rests when boiling, and upon which it is lifted out when done, to avoid breaking. In lieu of a fish kettle, wrap the fish in a cloth, with which it maybe gently lifted from the kettle when done. Steaming fish is far superior to boiling, in which case a rack similar to the one above described may be fitted to an ordinary wash boiler; have the holes the size of a five-cent piece. In boiling, the addition of salt and vinegar to the water pleasantly seasons the fish, and hardens the water, so that less of the nutriment is extracted. Always have the water boiling hot when first put in, and then set where it will simmer gently until done; the rule is to allow five to ten minutes to the pound, according to thickness. In boiling salmon, put into tepid water only, in order to preserve its fine color, increasing it to the boiling point, and then boil gently until done. To test, pass a knife along a bone, and if done, it will separate readily. Do not prod it with a fork. All fish should be boiled, steamed or baked in the position, as nearly as possible, that it assumes when in the water. To effect this, place the fish on its belly, and bend the head and tail in opposite directions, thus, (S). To keep it in position, tie a stout cord around the tail, pass it through the body, and tie to the head. % %

) Fill the fish with a nicely prepared stuffing of rolled cracker or stale bread crumbs, seasoned with butter, pepper, salt, sage, and any other aromatic herbs fancied; sew up; wrap in a well floured cloth tied closely with twine, and boil or steam. The garnishes for boiled fish are: For turbot, fried smelts; for other boiled fish, parsley, sliced

beets, lobster coral, or sliced boiled egg. Do not use the knives, spoons, etc., that are used in cooking fish, for other food, or they will be apt to impart a fishy flavor.

231. Steamed Fish — Secure the tail of the fish in its mouth, the body in a circle; pour over it half a pint of vinegar, seasoned with pepper and salt; let it stand an hour in a cool place; pour off the vine- gar, and put it in a steamer over boiling water, and steam twenty minutes, or longer for large fish. When the meat easily separates from the bone it is done. Drain well, and serve on a very clean white napkin, neatly folded and placed on the platter; decorate the napkin around the fish with sprigs of curled parsley, or with fanciful beet cuttings, or alter- nately with both.

232. Boiled Fresh Cod — Put the fish in a fish-kettle, or pro- ceed as above, and place in boiling water with some salt and scraped horse-radish; let it simmer until done. Place a folded napkin on a platter, turn the fish upon it, and serve with drawn butter, oyster or egg sauce.

233. Boiled Codfish — Soak in a pan of water" over night, and simmer two or three hours, or until well done. Serve with drawn butter, with hard boiled egg chopped fine and stirred in; also garnish the fish with slices of hard boiled egg laid on it or around the edge.

234. Broiled Codfish — Fresh codfish steaks are excellent broiled. After soaking sufficiently, grease the bars of the gridiron, broil well, but do not burn. Serve with bits of butter dropped over it, and garnish with fanciful pieces of sliced pickled beet, drained, and placed around the edge of the platter.

235. Codfish a la Mode — Pick up a teacup of salt codfish very fine, and freshen- — the desiccated is nice to use — two cups mashed potatoes, one pint cream or milk, two well beaten eggs, half a cup butter, salt and pepper; mix; bake in an earthen baking dish from twenty to twenty-five minutes; serve in same dish, placed on a small platter, covered with a fine napkin.

236. Stewed Codfish — Select a thick and very white codfish, or use the desiccated; pick in small pieces, and put in cold water to freshen; if desired soon, pour off and change the water frequently, but be sure and not get it too fresh. When properly freshened, put it in a stewpan, with one to three cups of warm water, according to quantity; let it stew slowly, and not boil, for half an hour; then add a c^p of milk thickened with flour, stew ten minutes longer, and just before serving, stir in one or two well beaten eggs. A nice breakfast dish with hot baked potatoes.

237. Picked Codfish — Pick the fish in fine pieces, and soak in cold water until sufficiently freshened; then drain it well, and add milk enough to cover it. When well scalded, thicken with flour or corn- starch; season with pepper. When taken from the fire, add two eggs, well beaten, make a nice moist paste, and pour the fish over it, or serve plain if preferred.

338. Minced Cod— Flake up cold baked or boiled cod, and to three cups of fish add one of mashed potatoes, a lump of butter the size of a filbert, half a teaspoon corn-starch, and one beaten egg; heat all together, adding the egg last.

239. Cod au Fromage— Of cold boiled macaroni, cut up in short bits, take a cupful, and one of cold boiled cod; mix together; put it in a buttered dish, and lay bits of butter over it; season with salt and pepper, and moisten with cold drawn butter, if you have it; if not, use milk; cover with fine bread crumbs, and sprinkle two tablespoons grated cheese on top; bake until brown, and serve in the bakmg-di-sh.

240. Codfish Balls— Soak codfish, cut in small pieces, about an hour in lukewarm water; remove the skin and bones; pick up very fine; put it in cold water and place on the stove; when it boils, change the water and let boil again. Have ready some boiled potatoes mash and season with butter. While both are hot, put half the codfish with the potatoes; mix in a well beaten egg, and mould into round balls or thick cakes; then fry them in hot lard or drippings, or drop them, like doughnuts, in hot fat enough to float, and skim out. By reheating them, cold potatoes may be used, in which case add a little cream, or milk and butter, and mix while hot.

241. Baked Salmon, Trout or Pickerel— Carefully clean and wipe the fish, and lay in a dripping-pan, with enough hot water to prevent scorching. A perforated sheet of tin, fitting loosely, or several muffin rings, maybe used to keep it off the bottom. Lay it in a circle on its belly, head and tair touching, and tied, or as directed in note on fish, bake slowly, basting often with butter and water. When done, have ready a cup of sweet cream to which a few spoons ot hot water have been added; stir in two large spoons of melted but- ter and a little chopped parsley; heat all by setting the cup in boiling water; add the gravy from the dripping-pan, and let boil up once; place the fish in a hot dish, and pour over it the sauce. Or an egg sauce may be made with drawn butter; stir in the yelk of an egg quickly, and then a teaspoon of chopped parsley.

242. Baked White Fish or Shad— Thoroughly clean the fish; cut off the head, or not, as preferred; cut out the backbone from the head to within two inches of the tail, and stuff with the following: Soak stale bread in water, squeeze dry; cut in pieces a large onion, fry in butter, chop fine; add the bread, two ounces of butter, salt, pepper and a little parsley or sage; heat through, and when taken off the fire, add the yelks of two well beaten eggs; stuff the fish rather full, sew up with fine twine, and wrap with several coils of white tape. Rub the fish over slightly with butter; just cover the bottom of a baking-pan with hot water, and place the fish in it, standing back upward, and bent in the form of an S. Serve with the following dressing: ^'Reduce the yelks of two hard boiled eggs to a smooth paste with two tablespoons good salad oil ; stir in half a teaspoon English mustard, and add pepper and vinegar to taste.

243. Boiled White Fish— Cover in a fish-kettle or tie up in a cloth, and suspend 'in boiling water sufficient to cover it Let it simmer, allowing from eight to ten minutes to the pound; remove the scum as it rises; when about half done, add a little vinegar or lemon juice- take out, drain, and dish carefully without breaking; pour over it drawn butter, and sprinkle with fine green parsley, or garnish with sprigs of parsley, and serve an egg sauce with it. Lake or Mackinac trout may also be cooked in same manner.

244. Broiled White Fish or Shad— Of the two fish the former is preferable, not only for its flavor, but on account of the great number of fine bones in the shad. Clean, and in case a white fish is used, split down the back; if a shad, split open in front, and also make a slit along the backbone, so it will lie flat to broil. Put the fish first inside down on the gridiron— well greased— and when nicely brown turn carefully over so as not to break the skin. For this purpose use a pan-cake turner. It should take about twenty to twenty-five minutes to be done thoroughly over live coals.

245. Broiled Salt White Fish— Freshen over night in suffi- cient buttermilk or sweet milk (skimmed milk will answer) to cover placing it flesh side down. Broil same as in preceding recipe and serve with a gravy of hot cream, to which is added a half spoon of butter; salt to taste.

246. Fried Fish— Most of the smaller fish (generally termed pan-fish) are usually fried. Clean well, cut off the head, and, if quite large, cut out the backbone, and- slice the body crosswise into five or six pieces. Dip in Indian meal or wheat flour, or in beaten egg, and roll in bread or fine cracker crumbs— trout and perch should not be dipped in meal; put into a thick bottomed iron frying-pan the flesh side down, with hot lard or drippings (not in butter, as it' dis- colors the fish, and also destroys some of its sweetness) ; fry slowly turning when lightly browned. The following method may be deemed preferable: Dredge the pieces with flour; brush them over with beaten egg; roll in bread crumbs, and fry in hot lard or drippings sufficient to cover. If the fat is very hot, the fish will fry without absorbing it, and it will be palatably cooked. When browned on one side, turn it'over in the fat and brown the other, draining when done. This is par- ticularly a good way to fry slices of large fish. Serve with tomato sauce; garnish with slices of lemon.

247. Brook Trout — These delicate fish are always fried. Wash and drain in a colander, split nearly to the tail, flour them nicely salt and put in a frying-pan, hot but not burning. If you use lard instead of the fat of fried salt pork,. which is preferable, throw in a little salt to prevent their sticking. Do not turn them until sufficiently browned for the table. They are to be fried crisp, or only browned, according to fancy. They are nice fried and served with slices of side salt pork when both should be done crisp. Cook and serve brook trout with their heads.

248. Fried Smelts — Fry with the heads on, same as brook trout. See No. 247.

249. Pan Fish — Fried — Place them in the frying-pan with the heads all lying the same way, and the spaces between fill in with smaller fish. When done to turn, place a plate over the whole and drain off the fat; invert the pan and they will be left unbroken on the plate. Put back the fat again in the pan, and when quite hot slip in the fish care- fully, and when that side is also done, drain on the plate as before, and slip them on a hot platter for the table. With care they will be unbroken, and with the heads on will make a fine appearing dish.

250. Stewed Fish — Cut any kind of large fresh-water fish in slices across, an inch and a half thick, and sprinkle with salt. Boil two sliced onions until done; pour off the water and season with pepper and salt; add two cups hot water and a little parsley, and in this simmer the fish until done. Serve quite hot.

251. Boiled Salt Mackerel — After freshening, wrap a cloth around and simmer for fifteen minutes. It will be about done as soon as the water slowly reaches boiling. Remove it carefully from the cloth to a platter, skin side up if it be unbroken. Place on it the slices of two hard boiled eggs, and pour around it, not covering, a drawn butter. Trim the platter with leaves of parsley or celery. Salt fish is much sooner boiled than fresh fish, while excessive boiling hardens it.

252. Broiled Salt Mackerel — This is more particularly a breakfast dish, and may be freshened over night, placing the fish in cold water, skin side up. Broil quickly, but do not burn, placing the skin side next the gridiron, and turning it. A wire broiler is the best to broil it on. When done, slip it off on a hot platter, without break- ing, and serve with skin side up. Garnish with parsley or slices of lemon laid on the fish.

253. Fish Chowder— The best fish for chov/der are haddock and sea or striped bass, although any kind of fresh fish may be used, those having large flakes being preferred. Cut in pieces over an inch thick and two inches square; place eight good sized slices of salt pork in the bottom of an iron pot and fry crisp; remove the pork, leaving the fat; put in the pot a layer of fish, a layer of split cracker, and some of the pork chopped fine, with black and red pepper and chopped onions; then another layer of fish, another of cracker, etc., etc., until the pot is full; cover with water and stew slowly until the fish is per- fectly done; remove the fish from the pot to a dish in which it is to be served, and keep it hot; thicken the gravy with rolled cracker or flour; boil up once, and pour over the chowder.

254. Salmon Gratin — One coffeecup of cold boiled salmon, pulled into flakes with a fork; mix with this half a cup of cold drawn butter, pepper and salt; fill small cup-cake tins or sauce plates; cover with fine bread crumbs; place in the oven and brown.

255. Crumbed Haddock — Remove the skin and bones from cold boiled haddock, and boil with half a small onion; pick the fish into flakes, and mix with each pint of fish one teaspoon salt, half a teaspoon

of pepper and a cup of dry bread crumbs; fill a buttered dish half full and pour in what remains of the drawn butter, or make a cup full; add the rest of the fish, sprinkle crumbs over the top, moisten with the water in which the bones were boiled, and bake about twenty minutes. It should be more moist than scalloped oysters.

256. Pickled Halibut— Take a good shaped piece of cold boiled halibut, stick half a dozen cloves in it, put it in a bowl and pour over it hot vinegar in which has been boiled a small bit of red pepper and a blade of mace; next day arrange around the edge of a dish some fresh crisp lettuce leaves; place the pickled fish in the center and pour over it what remains of the vinegar.