KITCHEN UTENSILS

One large turkey pan. Two sets of gem pans. Two spoons with long handles.

One can-opener. One coffee-mill. One chopping-knife. Three flat-irons, two No. 8, and one No. 6.

l<i:.S .\NJ) M K-«KK.\.M ITKXSIl.S.

An Ice-cream freezer. A custard-kettle. A wire strainer. A mortar and pestle. An egg-beater. A wooden paddle. A lemon squeezer. A wooden paddl*^. A. Tinned grater.

A h)iic: handlc'l iron spoon. A lar^re hoxwood spoon. ;A jelly bag. j.\ crash strainer. (A porcelain-lined bowl. |.\ household scale. .\ set i)f measures. Xn ice-cream moid.

THE MANAGEMENT OF HELP, 1017

THE MAISTAGhEMENT OF HEEP.

In all families whose style of living demands help in the household duties, the management of servants is the great American puzzle. "Girls" come and go like the seasons, sometimes with the weeks. The one who is "such a treasure" to-day, packs her trunk and leaves her mistress in the lurch to- morrow, or, if she happens to have a conscience and works on faithfully, she becomes the mistress and runs the household in her own way, her employer living in mortal fear of offending and loosing her. This state of things is due partly to the fact that all girls who go out to ser^^ce, do so as a make-shift until they marry or obtain some more congenial work. Few of them have any ambition to do their work well, and few ever dream of making themselves a necessity in the family, becoming a part of it, sharing its joys and sorrows, and so establishing that honorable and close relation which exists between servants and families in Europe. Here, it is so much work for so much pay, and no bond of sympathy or attachment is allowed to spring up on either side. Another cause is the fact that too many American women, who ought to know better, regard work as degrading, instead of positively elevating and ennobling when it is well and conscientiously done. Is it wonderful that "girls" catch something of this vicious sentiment, and that it poisons their minds with false views of life, until they look upon their work as bru- tal drudgery, and strive to do as little of it as they possibly can and collect their wages ?

Perhaps the reason why girls prefer situations in stores, or shops, or even factories, to housework, is that their work there is confined to certain hours, after which they are free, and it is quite possible that an arrangement which would give the domestic certain hours of the day of her own, would work a reform ; or still better, certain reasonable tasks might be allotted her to do after which she would be free.

The fixed wages which prevail in most cities and towns offer no induce- ment for the "girl" to try to become skillful or expert at her work. Among

1018 THE MANAGEMENT OF HELP.

men the best, neatest, and most skillful workman commands the largest pay, but the "girl" who is a superior cook, or maid of all work, gets only the same wages paid to a bungler who lives next door. Such a thing as a com- bination among ladies who employ help, to grade wages and protect each other from the imposition of untidy, dishonest, or indolent "girls," has never been made, and perhaps, indeed, it is no more called for than a combination of "girls" to protect themselves from lazy, tyrannical, or too exacting mis- tresses. Certain it is that the whole system by which domestics are hired and serve is demoralized beyond any speedy reform. All that any individual can do is to remedy its evils so far as possible in her own family. In em- ploying a new domestic, there should be the utmost frankness. She ought to be fully informed as to what she is expected to do, what her wages will be, and how paid, and what privileges will be granted. If she is not pleased, let her depart without regret. If you engage her, let her understand first and always that you are mistress, and claim the right to have the work done in your way, which, if you are as skillful a housewife as you ought to be, you will be able to show her what is the best way. The mistress ought always to be able to do everything better and quicker than any domestic ever dared think of doing it. If she gives orders which betray her ignorance, she may as well resign her scepter at once in shame and humiliation. No mistress who does not know how to do work herself can ever be just to her help ; and even when she is a thorough housekeeper, a turn in the kitchen for a day or two will often be like a new revelation to her.

Above all, the utmost kindness should be shown, and the mistress of the house should always be mistress of her temper. She should put herself in the "girl's" place, and apply the golden rule in all dealings with her. Give nnqualilied praise when deserved, but never scold. If anything is done im- properly, take some proper time and have it done correctly, again and again if necessary. Give domestics all the privileges possible, and when obliged to deprive them of any customary indulgence, make it up soon in some other way. Never to find fault at the time an error is committed, if in the least irritated or annoyed, is an invaluable rule in the management of domestics or children, and indeed in all the relations of life. A quiet talk after all feeling has subsided, will do wonders toward reform, while a sharp and bit- ter rebuke would only provoke to further disobedience. It is especially im- portant and right to respect religious and conscientious scruples, no matter how light and misguided they may seem. To cherish what beliefs she pleases is an inalienable right. The care for the comfort and attractiveness of the domestic's room is also a duty which every generous mistress will cheerfully look after. The servant who is tucked away in a gloomy attic, un- finished, uncarpeted, and uncurtained except by cobwebs, with the hardest bed and the meanest bed-clothing in the house, can hardly be expected to be neat and tidy in her personal habits. But, after all, it will be impossible to secure and keep really good "girls" unless they can be won into sympathy and attachment to the family, so that they will regard themselves as a part

THE MANAGEMENT OF HELP. 1019

of it, with a future identified with its fortunes. To do this, the mistress must respect her maid as a sensitive woman like herself, and not class her as a mere drudge of an inferior order of creation. She must recognize the fact that character, and not station or wealth, make the lady, and that it is possible for those who serve to respect themselves. She must let her domes- tics see that she does not consider her work degrading, but honorable, and that she does not for a moment expect them to regard it in any other light. Above all, she must never show them, by word, look, or action, that she "looks down" on them because of their work. By the cultivation of such amenities as these, the house may really be made a home for the domestics as well as the family, and the mistress who has accomplished this may well congratulate herself in having escaped the worst and most perplexing ills of the life of the American housewife. In her efforts to bring about such a result she may confidently count on meeting many cases of incompetence, stupidity, and even ingratitude, but the experiment itself is in the right di- rection; and if it fails of complete success, can not be wholly without good results.

HINTS TO THE EMPLOYE^.

Be neat in person and dress.

Keep your nands clean and hair tidy.

Do not waste time in gadding about and gossip.

Be quiet, polite and respectful in your manners.

Tell the truth always, but especially to children.

Do not spend your money foolishlv in gewgaws of dress.

Always follow your mistress' plan of work, or explain why you do not.

Keep your room neat and orderly, and make it as attractive as possible.

Do not waste anything. To waste carelessly is almost as wrong as to steal.

Never tell tales out of the family, or repeat in one what you have seen in another.

Never break a promise to children, and do not frighten them with stories, or help them to conceal wrong-doing.

Remember that there is nothing gained by slighting work. Doing every thing as well as possible always saves labor in housekeeping.

Remember that the best and most faithful girls command the highest wages, get the easiest and best places, and never are out of employment.

In engaging a new place, have a clear understanding as to wages, work, and the evenings and time you are to have. It may save trouble afterwards.

Learn from books or from those who have had more experience, the best way of doing work, and plan to do it, with as much system and few steps as possible.

Don't change employers. There are trials in every place, and it is bet- ter to put up with them, and make them as light as possible, than to change to new ones.

If j^our mistress scolds and loses her temper, be sure and control yours. If you feel that you are wronged, talk quietly and kindly after the storm has blown over.

Instead of trying, as many do, to see how little you can do and get your wages, try and see how pleasant and useful you can be as a member of the

1020 THE MANAGEMENT OF HELP.

family. AVork for its interest and happiness, lighten its burdens, be ready to give help when it is needed, even if it is out of your own line of work, and try to win the esteem and love of all by cheerfulness, truthfulness, and the practice every day of the golden rule.

Above all, do not think your work degrading. No work is more honor- able. The happiness and health of the family depends on you, and no lady or gentleman will "slight" you or "look down" on you because you work. You need not be on the lookout for slights unless you are vain, or lazy, or slovenly, or dishonest. "Whoever looks down on you because you do honest work conscientiously and well, is a fool, and not w'orth minding

HINTS ABOUT MARKETING. 1021

IIllSrTS ABOUT MARKETING.

Very few housekeepers understand how to select meats wisely or how to my economically. Most trust the butcher, or buy at hap-hazard, with no flear understanding of what they want, and no consideration at all for economy ; and yet a little knowledge of facts, with a moderate amount of experience and observation, will enable any one to buy both intelligently and economically. It is best, when possible, to buy for cash. Ready money always commands the best in the market, at the lowest prices. It is also > better to buy of the most respectable regular dealers in the neighborhood . than of transient and irresponsible parties. Apparent "bargains" frequently turn out the worst possible investments. If a dealer imposes on you, drop him at once. Meat should always be wij^ed with a dry, clean towel as soon as it comes from the butcher's, and in loins the pipe which runs along the bone should be removed, as it soon taints. Never buy bruised meat.

When found necessary to keep meat longer than was expected, sprinkk pepper, either black or red, over it. It can be washed off easilj' when ready for cooking. Powdered charcoal is excellent to prevent meat from tainting. Meat which has been kept on ice must be cooked immediately, but it is jnuch better to place meats, poultry, game, etc., by the side of, not on, ice is it is the cold air, not the ice, which arrests decay. All meats excepi v^eal, are better when kept a few days in a cool place.

Buying Beef. — Select that which is of a clear cherry-red color after a resh cut has been for a few moments exposed to the air. The fat should be )f a light straw color, of a firm and waxy consistency, and'the meat marbled throughout with fat. If the beef is immature, the color of the lean part will Toe pale and dull, the bones small, and the fat verj' white. High-colored, coarse-grained beef, with the fat a deep yellow, should be rejected. In corn- fed beef the fat is yellowish, while that fattened on grasses is whiter. Ir

1022 HINTS ABOUT MARKETING.

cow-beef the fat is also whiter than in ox-beef. Inferior meat from old or ill-fed animals has a coarse, skinny fat and a dark red lean. Qx-beef is the sweetest and most juicy, highly nourishing, and the most economical. That of the cow is nourishing but not so agreeable to the taste, but a heifer is always held in high estimation. The llesh of the ox of large breeds is best at seven years old ; of small breeds at live years. When meat pressed by the finger rises up quickly, it is prime, but if the dent disappears slowly, or remains, it is inferior in quality. Any greenish tints about either fat or lean, or slipperiness of surface, indicates that the meat has been kept so long that putrefaction has begun, and, consequently, is unfit for use, except by those persons who prefer what is known as a "high flavor". Tastes dif- fer as to the choice cuts, and butchers cut meat differently. The tenderloin, which is the choicest piece, and is sometimes removed by itself, lies under the short ribs and close to the backbone, and is usually cut through with the porterhouse and sirloin stakes. Of these the porterhouse is generally pre- ferred, the part nearest the bone being the sweetest. If the tenderloin is wanted, it may be secured by buying an edgebone steak, the remainder of which, after the removal of the tenderloin, is ecjual to the sirloin. The small porterhouse steaks are the most econimical, but in large steaks, the coarse and tough parts may be used for soup, or, after boiling, for hash, which, in spite of its bad repute, is really a very nice dish when well made. A round steak, when the leg is not cut down too far, is sweet and juicy, the objection being its toughness, to cancel which it

Mutton should be fat, and the fat clea^r, hard and white. Beware of buy- ing mutton with flabby, lean and yellow fat. An abundance of fat is a source of waste, but as "the lean part of fat nmtton is much more juicy and tender than any other, it should be chosen. The longer nmtton is hung before being cooked, provided it does not become tainted, the better it is. If a saddle or haunch of mutton is washed with vinegar every day, and dried thoroughly after each washing, it will keep a good while. In warm weather p(-q)p(-'r and ground ginger rubbed over it will keep off flies. The leg has tlie least fat in proportion to weight, next is the shoulder. The least

HINTS ABOUT MARKETINff. 1023

proportion of bone is in the leg. After the butcher has cut off all he can be persuaded to remove, you will still have to trim it freely before broiling. The lean of mutton is quite different from that of beef. While beef is a bright carnation, mutton is a deep, dark red. The hind-quarter of mutton is best for roasting. The ribs may be used for chops, and are the sweeter ; but steaks or cutlets from the hind legs are the most economical, as there is much less bone, and no hard meat, as on the ribs. For mutton roast, choose the shoulder, the saddle, or the loin or haunch. The leg should be boiled. Small rib chops are best for broiling ; those cut out from the leg are gener- allv tough. Mutton cutlets to bake are taken from the neck. Almost any part will do for broth. As much of the fat should be removed as practicable ; then cut into small pieces and simmer slowly until the meat falls to pieces. Drain off and skim off any remaining fat, and thicken with rice and vermi- celli. Mutton is in season any time, but is not so good in autumn.

To Select Hams. — The best hams, whether corned or cured and smoked, are those from eight to fifteen pounds in weight, having a thin skin, solid fat, and a small, short, tapering leg or shank. In selecting them, rira a knife along the bone on the fleshy side ; if it comes out clean and with an agreeable smell the ham is good, but "if the knife is smeared it is spoiled. Hams may be steamed, being careful to keep the water under the steamer boiling, and allow twenty minutes to the pound. "When done, brown slightly in the oven.

Lavib is good at a year old, and more digestible than most immature meats. "Spring Lamb" is prized because unseasonable. It is much in- ferior to the best mutton. The meat should be light red and fat. If not too warm weather, it ought to be kept a day or two before cooking, but it does not keep well. It is stringy and indigestible if cooked too soon after killing. The fore-quarter of lamb,' if not fresh, the large vein in the neck, which should be blue, will be greenish in color. If the hind-quarter is stale, the kidney fat will have a slight smell.

PorA-.— Great care must be taken in selecting pork. Dairy-fed pork is the best. If ill-fed or diseased, no meat is more injurious to the health. The lean must be fine-grained, and fat and lean very white. The rind should be smooth and cool to the touch. If clammy, be sure the pork is stale, and re- ject it. If the fat is full of small kernels," it is an indication of disease. In good bacon the rind is thin, the fat firm, and the lean tender. Rusty bacon has yellow streaks in it. Fresh pork should seldom be eaten, and never exce'pt in the fall and winter. Pig's head is profitable to buy. It is often despised because cheap ; but welfcooked, it is delicious. Well cleaned, the tip of the snout chopped oft', and put in brine ^a week, it is in-order for boil- ing. The cheeks are better than any other pieces of pork to bake. The head is good baked an hour and a half, and yields abundance of sweet fat for shortening.

Tongue. — Beef's tongue, calf's tongue, lamb's and sheep's tongue, pig's tongue, can all be procured of the butchers, and they are all prepared in the same way. Calf's tongue is considered best, but it is usually sold with the head; be'eves' tongues are what is referred to generally when "tongue" is spoken of. Lambs' tongues are very nice. In purchasing tongues, choose those which are thick, firm, and have plenty of fat on the under side. In buying a salt tongue ascertain how long it has been pickled and select one with a smooth skin which denotes it being young and tender.

Veal is best from calves not less than four nor more than six weeks old. If younger it is unfit for food, and if older the mother cow does not furnish enough food, and it is apt to fall away ; besides, the change to grass diet changes the character of the flesh, it becoming darker and less juicy. The

1024 HINTS ABOUT MARKETING.

meat should be clear and firm, and the fat white. If dark and thin, with tissues hanging loosely about the bone, it is not good. Veal will not keep so long as an older meat, especially in hot or damp weather, and when going the fat is soft and moist, the meat flabby and spotted, and inclined to be porous like a sponge. The hind-quarter is the choicest joint. It is usually divided into two parts, called the "loin" and the "leg". A loin must al- ways be roasted ; the fillet or leg may be dressed in various ways. When the leg is large, it is divided into two joints, and the thin end is" called the "kidney end," and the other the "thick end." From the leg is cut the "fil- lets" and "veal cutlets." The "knuckle of veal" is the part left after the "fillets" and "cutlets" are removed (the knee) and is best for soup or boil- ing. In the fore quarter the breast and rack admit variety in cooking ; the shoulder and neck are only fit for soup. Many prefer the "breast of veal" for roasting, stewing, pies, etc. It may be boned so as to roll, or a large hole may be cut in it to make room for the stuffing. The neck of veal is used for stewing, fricassee, pies, etc. The leg is an economical piece, as you can take ofi' cutlets from the large end, stutf and roast the center, and make broth of the shank. Veal chops are nice for frying or boiling; cutlets or steaks for same purpose are more economical as there is less bone. Veal should be avoided in summer. Though veal and lamb contain less nutrition, in proportion to their weight, than beef and mutton, they are often prefer- red to these latter meats on account of the delicacy of their texture and flavor. ,

Sweet-breads, if properly cooked, make one of the most delicate dishes that can be put upon the table ; but some care must be taken in selecting them, as there are two kinds, and one kind is very much better than the other. One is found in the throat of the calf, and when fresh is plump, white and fat, it has an elongated form, but is not so firm and fat, and has not the fine flavor of the heart sweet-V)read. The heart sweet-bread is at- tached to the last rib, and lies near the heart. The form is somewhat rounded, and it is smooth and firm. The color should be clear and a shade darker than the fat. Select the largest. There is also the lamb sweet- bread. However the sweet-breads may be cooked, the}' should be always first soaked for three hours in cold water, which should be two or three times changed ; then they should lie put into boiling water for half an hour or longer, if that does not make them firm ; tlien they may be dried in a towel, and pressed flat by putting them between two pans or boards, with a press- ing-iron or other weight on top. Another nice dish, and in dishes may be made of Calves-hrad ; in buying, purchase two small ones as they do not cost any more than one large one and contain a double amcjunt of brain, which is a very choice part of them.

Grarae and Poultry.

To preserve game and poultry in summer, draw as soon as possible after they are killed, wash in several waters, have in readiness a kettle of boiling water, plunge them in, drawing them up and down by the legs, so that the water may pass freely through them ; do this for five minutes, drain, wijie dry, and hang in a cold place; when perfectly cold, rub the insides and necks with pepper ; prepared in this way, they will keep two days in warm weather ; when used wash thoroughly. Or wash well in soda-water, rinse is clear water, place inside several pieces of charcoal, cover with a cloth, and hang in a dark, cool place, The most delicate birds can be pre8er\'ed in this

HINTS ABOUT MARKETING. 1025

way. If game or poultry is at all strong, let it stand for several hours in water with either soda or charcoal ; the latter will sweeten them when they are apparently spoiled. English or French cooks, however, never wash poultry or game in dressing, unless there is something to wash off. With skillful dressing, none is necessary on the score of cleanliness, and much washing tends to impair the fine flavor, especially of game In all game and poultry the female is the choicer.

Sportsmen who wish to keep prairie-chickens, phesants or wild fowl in very hot weather, or to ship long distances, should draw the bird as soon as killed, force down the throat two or three whole peppers, tying a string around the throat above them, sprinkle inside a little powdered charcoal, aud fill the cavity of the body with very dry grass. Avoid green or wet grass, which "heats" and hastens decay. If birds are to be shipped without drawing, force a piece of charcoal into the vent, and tie a string closely around the neck, so as to exclude all air, and make a loop in string to hang up by. Pre- pared in this way they will bear shipment for a long distance.

Ducks. — Young ducks feel tender under the wings, and the web of the foot is transparent, and the beak will be brittle and break readily, those with thick, hard breasts are best. Tame ducks have yellow legs ; wild ducks, red- dish ones ; and in either case in young ones they are hairless.

Geese. — In young geese, the bills and feet are yellow and supple, and the skin may be easily broken; the breast is plump, and the fat white; an old goose has red and hairy legs, and is unfit for the table.

Wild Ducks, if fishy and the flavor is disliked, should be scalded for a few minutes in salt and water before roasting. If the flavor is very strong the duck may be skinned, as the oil in the skin is the objectionable part. After skinning, spread with butter and thickly dredge with flour, before putting in a very quick oven.

Game — In pheasants and quails, yellow legs and dark bills are signs of a young bird, and the pins in a young pheasant are short and blunt. With the latter the cock-bird is generally prefered except when the hen is with egg. They are in season in autumn. Pigeons should be fresh, fat and tender, and the feet pliant and smooth. In prairie chickens, when fresh, the eyes are full and round, not sunken ; and if young, the breast-bone is soft and yields to pressure. The latter test also applies to all fowls and game birds. Plover woodcock, snipe, etc., may be chosen by the same rule. Choose rabbits with smooth and sharp claws ; as that denotes they are young ; should these be blunt and rugged, the ears dry and tough, the animal" is old.

Turkeys are in season in fall and winter, but deteriorate in the spring. Old turkeys have long hairs, and the skin is purplish when it shows under the skin on legs and back ; when good, they are white, plump, with full breast and smooth, black legs ; and if male, soft loose spurs, The eyes are bright and full, and the feet are supple, when fresh. The absence of these signs' denotes age and staleness. Hen turkeys are inferior in flavor, but are smaller, fatter and plumper. Full-grown turkeys are best for boning or boil- ing, as the flesh does not tear in dressing.

Chickens, when fresh, are known by full, bright eyes, pliable feet, and soft moist skin. Young fowls have a tender skin, smooth legs and comb, and the best have yellow legs. In old fowls, the. legs are rough and hard. The

1026 HIXTJ! ABOUT MARKETING.

top of the breast-bono of a young fowl is soft, and may be easily bent with the lingers ; and the feet an<i neck are large in proportion to the "body. The l)est fowlis arc tat, i)hnap, with skin nearly white, and the grain of tlie flesh line. Old fowls have long, thin neeks and fct't, and the flesh on the legs and back has a purplish shade. Fowls are always in season.

Venixmi. — The choice of venison should be regulated by the fat, which, when the venison is young, should be thick, clear and close", while the meat is a reddish b^-own. As it always begins to taint first near the haunches, run a knife into that part ; if tainted, a rank smell and a greenish appearance will l)e pcrceptilile. It maybe kept a long time, however, with careful manage- ment and watching, by the following process: Wash'it well in milk and water, an<l dry it perfectly with a cloth until there is not the least damp re- maining ; then dyst ground pepper over every part. This is a good preserva- tive uirainst the fly. Tlie flesh of the female deer, about four years old, is the sweetest and best of venison.

"When fresh, the eyes of fish are full and bright, and the gills a fine clear red, the body stifl' and the smell not unpleasant. Mackerel must be lately caught, or it is very indiflerent fish, and the flavor and excellence of salmon depends entirely on its freshness. In fresh-water fish, it is imposssible to name all the excellent varieties, as they differ with the locality. In the South is the shad, the sheep's-head, the golden mullet and the Spanish mackerel, in the North-west the luscious brook trout, and the wonderful and choice tribes that people the inland lakes. Among the best of the fresh- water lish, sold generally in the markets of the interior, are the Lake Superior trout and wliite fish, and, coming from cold waters, they keep best of all fresh-water fish ; the latter is the best, most delicate, and has fewer l)ones, greatly resembling shad. The wall-eyed pike, bass and pickerel of the inland lakes are also excellent fish, and are shipped, packed in ice, reaching market as fresh as when caught, and are sold at moderate prices. California salmon is also shipped in the same way, and is sold fresh in all cities, with fresh cod and other fresh varieties from the Atlantic coast, but the long distance which they must be transported makes the price high. The cat-fish is the staple Mississippi River fish, and is cooked in various ways. Lake Superior trout are the best fresh fish for baking. All fish which have been packed in ice should be cooked immediately after removal, as they soon grow soft and lose their flavor. Stale fish must never be eaten. Fresh fish should be scaled and cleansed properly on a dry table, and not in a pan of water. As little water should be used as is compatible w

HINTS ABOUT MARKETING. 1027

Anchovies. — The best look red and mellow, and the bones moist and oily, the flesh is high flavored, and a fine smell ; if the liquor and fish be- come dry, add to it a little beef brine.

Cod. — This should be t-hosen for the table when it is plump and round near the tail, when the hollow behind the head is deep, and when the sides are undulated as if they were ribbed. The glutinous parts about the head lose their delicate flavor after the fish has been twenty-four hours out of the water. The great point by which the cod sliould be judged is the firmness of its flesh; and although the cod is not firm when it is alive, its quality may be arrived at by pressing the finger into the flesh. If this rises immediately the fish is good, if not, it is stale. Another sign of its good- ness is, if the fish, when it is cut, exhibits a bronze appearance, like tlie silver-side of a round of beef. When this is the case, the flesh will be firm when cooked. Stiffness in a cod, or in any otlier fish, is a sure sign of fresh- ness, though not always of quality. vSometimes, codfish, though exhibiting signs of rough usage, will eat much better than those with red gills, so strongly recommended by many.

Crabs. — Though not so popular as lobsters, crabs are among the most pleasantly flavored fish of their class. They are in season from June to January, but are considered to be more wholesome in the cold months. The middling size, when heavy, lively, and possessed of large claws, are the best and sweetest ; if light, they are poor and watery When crabs are stale the eyes look dead, the claws hang down, and there is no muscular activity ; in this condition they are not fit to eat. The female is considered inferior to the male, and may be distinguished by the claws being smaller, and the apron, which appears on the white or "under side, larger. In purchasing crabs in the living state preference should be given to those which have a rough shell and claws. When selecting a crab which has been cooked it should be held by its claws and well shaken from side to side. If it is found to rattle, or feels as if it contained water, it is proof that the crab is of infer- ior quality. The crab may be kept alive, out of water, two or three davs. They are broiled in same manner as the lobster. Soft-shell Crabs are deemed a great luxury ; but they must not be kept over night, as the shells harden in twenty-four hours.

Eels. — Dress as soon as possible, or they l(»se their sweetness; cut ofT the head, skin them, cut them open, and scrape them free from every string. They are good except in the hottest summer months, the fat ones being best. A fine codfish is thick at the back of the neck, and is besjt in cold weather. In sturgeon, flesh should be white, veins blue, grain even and skin tender.

Lobsters. — When freshly caught, have some muscular action in their claws which may be excited by pressing the eyes. The heaviest lobsters if of good size are the best, but the largest are not the best. The male is thought to have the highest flavor, the flesh is firmer, and the shell has a brighter red, and is considered ])est during the Fall and Spring; it may be readily distinguished from the female, as the tail is narrower, and the'two uppermost fins, within the tail, are stiff and hard; those of the female are soft, and the tail broader. The latter are ])repared for sauces on account of their coral, and are prefei-red during the summer, especially in June and July. The head is used in garnishing, by twisting it off" after the lobster has been boiled and become cold. Lobsters ranging from four pounds are most delicate. When you buy them ready boiled, try whether their tails are stiff", and pull up with a spring; if otherwise, they are either waterv or not freuli.

1028 HINTS ABOUT MARKETING.

Mackerel. — The best salt mackerel for general use are "English mess," but "bloaters" are considered nicer. In selecting alwavs choose those which are thick on the belly and fat; poor mackerel are always dry. The salt California salmon are excellent, those of a dark rich yellow being best. To freshen, place with scale side up. Salmon boiled and served with egg sauce or butter dressing is nice. No. 1 White Fish is also a favorite salt fish, and will be found in all markets. Herring is a good and very economical fish. A good deal of sturgeon is put up and sold for smoked halibut. The skin of halibut should be white ; if dark it is more likely to be sturgeon. Smoked salmon should be firm and dry. Smoked white fish and trout are very nice, the former being a favorite in whatever way dressed. Select good firm whole fish.

Scallops are not much used; when fresh, the shell closes tight; hard- shell clams are also closed tight when fresh. Soft-shell clams are good only in cold weather, and should be fresh. Oysters, if alive and healthy, close tight upon the knife. They are good from September to May.

Terrapins. — They are "diamond backs," and sold in the market by counts, which are so called from the width of the bottom shell, each count measuring three inches. Any terrapin that will go a connt is a female, and of course is preferred, for being more tender, and on account of the eggs.

Vegetables.

All green vegetables snap crisply when fresh ; if they bend and present a wilted appearance they are stale. They should be crisp, fresh, and juicy ; they are best just before flowering, and are in prime condition for use if gathered early in the morning, and not afterwards exposed to the heat of the sun ; green vegetables which have laid in the market stalls for any time should not be bought if fresh ones can be obtained; but if their use is un- avoidable they can be restored by sprinkling them with cold water, and lay- ing them in a cool, dark place.

Carrots, are good from the time of ripening until they begin to sprout; after that their elements are disarranged and altered by the process of germ- ination, and they do not supply the -same kind or amount of nutriment. They should be plump and even sized, with fresh, unshrivolled skins. They, as well as parsnips, tiirnips, greens, and cabbage are eaten with boiled meat.

Cauliflowers are best when large, .solid and creamy. When stale the leaves are wilted and show dark spots.

Celery stalks should be white, solid and clean. Celery begins in August, but it is better and sweeter after frost.

Egg-plant should be firm but not ripe. The large purple oval-shaped kind, is best.

Edible Mushrooms are most plentiful in the early Spring and in August and September, springing up in the open fields aftering low-lying fogs or heavy dews, their quick growth being most remarkable. Never gather those that crow in shady places, under trees or near pools of stagnant water, as they are almost sure to be poisonous. The top of the edible young mush- room and its stalk is alwavs quite white, while the gills or under part are loose and of a light pink o"r salmon color, which changes as it grows older

HINTS ABOUT MARKETING. 1029

to a chocolate brown color, and then to black, according to the time it con- tinues growing ; the stem also becomes dark and the top turns brown. The upper skin of the mushroom falls off easily but that of the poisonous fungus does not; the latter has a yellow skin and the under part has not the clear flesh or pink color of the mushroom. Every edible mushroom has also a pleasant odor and is never slimy, while those that are dangerous either have a bad odor or none at all.

Pease should be bought in pods and should feel cool and dry. If pods are rusty or spotted, they are too old to be good. These as well as corn, beets, and beans are appropriate to either boiled or roasted meat.

Potatoes. — Select those of medium size, smooth, with small eyes ; those which are heavy in proportion to size will be the mealiest when cooked. They should be perfectly ripe before gathering, otherwise they will dry and shrivel, because their skins are so porous as to permit the evaporation of their moisture. To test, cut off a piece of the large end ; if spotted, they are unsound. Potatoes vary greatly in quality ; varieties which are excellent early in the season loose their good qualities, and others, which are worth- less in the Fall, are excellent late in the Spring. Those raised on gravelly or sandy soil, not over rich are best. In the Spring, when potatoes are be- ginning to sprout, place a basket of them in a tub, pour boiling water over them ; in a moment or two take out and place in sun to dry (on the grass is a good place), and then return to cellar. If they have sprouted too much it is best to first rub them off. They are good with all meats. With poultry they are best mashed. Sweet potatoes are most appropriate to roasts as are onions, winter squash and asparagus.

Tomatoes are generally regarded as wholesome. The medium-sized smooth ones are best. Tomatoes are good with every kind of meat, but especially so with roasts.

Turnips are not nutritious, being ninety per cent water, but an excel- lent food for those who are disposed to eat too much, as they correct consti- pation. Small-sized white turnips contain more nutrition than large ones, but in ruta-bagas the largest are best. Mashed turnip is good with roasted pork and with boiled meats.

Berries. — Morning is the best time to eat fruit, and fresh fruit is then in the best condition to be eaten. When berries of any kind can be had fresh with the morning dew, fill the finest glass dish, adding a few fresh leaves, for a center-piece on the breakfast table. Serve in saucers accompanied with fine white sugar (pulverized is the best and most economical for all purposes) and fresh cream if you have it, but never substitute skim milk. The berries will be very nice with only sugar. There is a vast difference between fruit with cream and fruit with milk. Cream is easily digested and slow to sour, while just the contrary is true of milk after the cream has been removed. Yet we have known people to live after eating strawberries and buttermilk, and we have also known people to die after eating hot apple dumplings and cold milk. If you happen to be the fortunate possessor of a berry patch, let the children go out betore breakfast and pick and eat. Properly trained chil- dren will not abuse this privilege.

Apples. — The varieties of apples are almost unmentionable, and some kind can be had almost the entire year. First fruit received in the north comes from Tennessee about June 1st. Southern Illinois furnishes some

1030 HINTS ABOUT MARKETING.

June lotli, and from this time apples are ripening in all sections of country. Early apples are Red Junes, Early Harvest — both tart — Maiden Blush, Red Streaks, Strawberries, Porters, Golden, Ben Davis and Pippins. Pippins are good for pies and also for eating. Later in the fall the Rliode Island Greening is best for cooking. None of our fruits are brought to such perfec- tion, or may be preserved with such ease through the winter. The best eat- ing apples are the Spitzenberg, Bell-flowers, Ben Davis, Northern Spy, Win- ter Pippin, Red Astrakan, Greening, Vandevere, Pound Sweet, Roxbury Russets and Grindstones.

Applet, to Kiep. — For keeping late in spring the Baldwins, Northern Spy, Greenings and Wine Saps are good ; our experience being in favor of tlie last named. The Ben Davis and Bell-flowers are good cooking apples yet the lat- ter can generally be bought without specifying the kind. The hard, acid kind, are unwholesome if eaten raw ; but by the process of cooking the great- est part of the acid is decomposed and converted into sugar, a process which takes place naturally in the sweet kinds, as the fruit ripens. As more than half of the substance of apples consists of water, and as the rest of the ingre- dients are not of the most nutritive kind, this fruit, like most fruits, is less of a nutrient than a luxury, and an aid to digestion. When cooked they are slightly laxative, and therefore a useful adjunct to other food. They are nice. cooked without paring them. Wipe clean, nearly cover with water, add a little sugar, and stew until tender, then put in a slow oven and bake until brown. The peel of the apple imparts a rich flavor. Apple sauce made in the usual way, after being sufficiently stewed, if put into a slow oven and baked an hour or so. is greatly improved.

Grapes — These ripen according to locality, from the 1st of September until November, and, when carefully kept, a month or two longer. We have also the luscious foreign grapes, raised in hot and cold graperies from April until December, among which are the Black Hamburgh, White Mus- cat, White Sweetwater, Tokay, etc. The Syrian, a white species, produces the largest clusters. The White Malayan, of foreign growth, is found throughout the winter where imported fruits are kept. Fox or wild grapes are abundant from the middle of August to November ; they are round and soft, with a pleasant, tart taste, and are used for pies, preserves, etc.

Lemons — Are fruit that keep well and may be had almost any season of the year, but are more plenty and cheaper in the Spring. Messina lemons are the best. Little success has been had raising lemons in Florida, better in California, but the Messina has for many years been considered the best.

Orayiges. — California Riverside oranges are the cleanest and finest fruit raised ; but the finest oranges that are shipped to Northern cities are from Florida. They begin to pick them about November and the crop is all marketed by February first. California fruits are picked in December and the bulk is marketed in March and April; the fruit Is plentiful and stays on trees until ^larch or April in perfect condition. Can be had in market until late in June. The finest variety ol all oranges is the Naval which is luscious, sweet, and without seeds. The Paperskins, and Bud- ded or Grafted oranges are also good. Fruit from Los Angeles, Saute Anna, and San Bernardine is inferior to that from Riversides because of the Ocean fogs blackening them while on the tree, and the process of cleaning ])rushing, etc., injures them, and they do not keep so well. The importa- tion of Messinas begins in March and after May the market is supplied largely with this fruit. Thi.«< was formerly considered the finest fruit, but it has lost its prestige and importations at present time are not over one third what they were. Lousiana oranges come late in the season — October

HINTS ABOUT MARKETING. 1031

and November, but are not considered as good as the other varieties ; large and yellow, but coarse, inferior and apt to have strong seeds, peculiar sour bitter taste, etc. Some seasons the fruit matures better than others and is quite palatable.

Peaches. — This fruit can be grown in about any temperate climate and is raised from Gulf of Mexico to Illinois, Indiana and Ohio, and can be ob- tained from middle of May to first of October. First comes from Mississippi, as they begin to pick May 1st. From Tennesee 10th to 15th of June ; South- ern Illinois, July 1st; California, July 1st ; Michigan, August 15th ; Mary- land, August 15th. California and Mississippi fruit do not rank high on ac- count of being picked green for distant shipments. No really fine peaches are obtained until the Maryland and Michigan crop come in. These peaches are harder and will stand longer shipments and are considered one of the finest fruits.

Pears — May be had from July until well into the winter. The finest of this fruit comes from California, although some fine pears may be had from Western New York and Northern Ohio.

Grroceries.

Almonds. — Buy the sweet variety ; the kernels are used either in a green or ripe state, and as an article in the dessert. Into cookery, confectionery, perfumery, and medicine, they largely enter, and in domestic economy, should always be used in preference to bitter almonds. The reason for ad- vising this is because the kernels do not contain any hydrocyanic or prussic acid, although it is found in the leaves, flowers, and baVk of "the tree. When young and green they are preserved in sugar, like green apricots. Thev furnish the almond-oil ; and the farinaceous matter which is left after the oil is expressed, forms the pate d'amandes of perfumers. In the arts, the oil is employed for the same purposes as the olive-oil, and forms the basis of kalydor, macassar oil, (Rowland's lotion, and many other articles of that kind vended by perfumers. In medicine, it is considered a nutritive, laxa- tive, and an emollient.

Arrowroot, Tapioca, Sigo, Pearl-barley, American Isinglass, Macaroni, Vermicelli, and Oatmeal, are all articles which help to make an agreeable variety, and it is just as cheap to keep a small quantity of each as it is to buy a large quantit}- of two or three articles. Eight or ten pounds each of these articles of food can V)e kept in covered jars or covered wooden boxes, and then they are always at hand when wanted. All of them are verv healthful food, and help to form many delightful dishes for desserts. There are several kinds of oatmeal — Scotch, Irish, Canadian and American. The first two are sold in small packages, the Canadian and American in anv quantity. It seems as if the Canadian and American should be the best be- cause the freshest ; but the fact is the others are considered the choicest. Many people could not eat oatmeal in former years, owing to the husks ir- ritating the lining of the stomach. There is now what is called pearled meal. All the husks are removed, and the oats are then cut. The coarse kind will keep longer than the fine ground, but it is best to purchase often, and have the meal as fresh as possible.

Buckwheat Meal, Rice and Hominy should be purchased in small quan- tities, and kept in covered kegs and tubs. Several of these articles are in- fested with black insects, and an examination should be occasionally made for them.

1032 HINTS ABOUT MARKETING.

Cheese, which feels soft between the fingers, is richest and beet and should be kept in a box in a cool dry place.

Corn Meal does not keep well and should be bought in small quantities. South the white meal is used, and North the yellow is the favorite. Corn is a heat producer and is a useful winter diet.

Coffee and Tea can be bought with advantage in considerable quantities. Coflfee improves by age if kept in a dry place, as it loses its rank smell and taste. Several cents a pound may be "saved by buying a bag of coffee or half chest of tea. Tea loses its flavor if put up in paper, and should be kept in glass or tin, shut tight. Coffee should be kept by itself, as its odor affects other articles.

Eggii. — To determine the exact age of eggs, dissolve about four oimees of comm(jn salt in a quart of pure water and then iinmersc the egg. If it be only a day or so old, it will sink to the bottom of the vessel, but if it be three days old it will float in the liquid ; if more than five it comes to the surface, and rises above in proi)ortion to its increased age.

Flour should be bought in small quantities, and the best is cheapest. The test of quality is given under bread. Flour is peculiarly sensitive to at- mosphereic influence, hence it should never be stored in a room with sour liquids nor where onions or fish are kept, nor any article that taints the air of the room in which it is stored. Any smell perceptible to the sense will be absorbed by flour. Avoid damp cellars or loft where a free circulation of air can not be obtained. Keep in a cool, dry, airy room, and not exposed to a freezing temperature nor to intense summer or to artificial heat for any length of time above 70 to 72 degrees Farenheit. It should not come in con- tact with grain or other substances which are liable to heat. Flour should be sifted and the particles thoroughly disintegrated, and then warmed before baking.

Hard Soap should be bought in large quantity, and laid to harden in bars piled on each other. Hard soap is more economical than soft, as it is not so easily wasted.

Lard. — The best lard is made from leaf fat which adheres to the ribs and belly of the hog. This is known as leaf lard. Most lard is, however made of both leaf fat and meat fat, the latter cut into small pieces and rendered. Good lard should be white, solid, and without any disagreeable smell.

Macaroni. — Good macaroni is of a yellowish color, does not break in cooking and yields four times its bulk.

Marjoram. — Although there are several species of marjoram, that which is known as the sweet or knotted marjoram, is the one usually preferred in cookery. It is a native of Portugal, and when its leaves are used as a seas- oning herb, they have an a>ireeable aromatic flavor. The winter sweot marjoram used for the same purpose, is a native of Greece, and the pot- marjoram is another variety brought from Sicily. All of them are favorite ingredients in soups, stuffings, etc.

Olives. — \ small sort can be bought by the keg cheap for sauces, etc., but for the table always use the Spanish bottled olives.

Raisins should be bought in small quantities ; small boxes are best.

Rice. — The Southern rice cooks much quicker, and is nicer than the Indian rice.

•Saao.— The small white sago, called "pearl," is best.

HINTS ABOUT MARKETING. 1033

Salt must be kept in the dryest place that can be found. The best for table use is put up in boxes, but if a quantity be purchased, it should be stored in a glass jar, and closely covered. When it becomes damp in the salt-stands, it should be set by the fire to dry, and afterwards reduced to fine powder again.

Sa/ads. — For these procure mustard and cress, borage, chervil, lettuce, parsley, mint, purslane, chives, burnet, nasturtium leaves and buds, fennel, sorrel, tarragon, corn salad, dandelions, chicory, escarole, water cresses, green onions, celery, leeks, lettuce, very young spinach leaves, the tender feaves of oyster plant, fresh mushrooms, young^marshmellow shoots, and the fresh sprouts of winter turnips ; also radishes, cucumbers, onions, cabbage, very young turnips, green peppers, and fresh tomatoes. Salad vegetables which can be cooked and allowed to cool and then made into sulads, are po- tatoes, beets, carrots, cabbage, cauliflowers, turnips, kohl-rabi, artichokes, string beans, green peas, asparagus, Brussel sprouts, spinach, dried haricot beans, Lima beans, lentils, and leeks ; among the fruits are apples, pears, oranges, lemons, muskmelons, currants, gooseberries and barberries.

Spices and Pepper should be ground fine, and put in large-mouthed glass bottles, or kept in tin cans, in a dry place. Avoid bright red peppers, spices, and sauces.

Starch may also be bought in large quantities at a considerable discount from the retail price, which, in a large family, makes a difference in the yearly expenses. The best starch is the most economical.

Sugars. — Buy sugars for various purposes as follows :

For baked custard, mince pie, squash pie, fruit cake, gingerbread, most Indian puddings, use brown sugar.

For all light-colored cakes, icing, floating island, blanc-mange, merin- gues, whips, use powdered sugar.

For pudding sauce, use powdered or brown sugar.

For sweetmeats, jelly, and raspberry vinegar, use fine granulated sugar, and where only one sugar is used the fine granulated is best for all purposes. There is a great diS"erence between the fine and coarse sugar, the former being more economical as it dissolves much quicker and more readily.

Vinegar, which is made of wine or cider is the best. Buy a keg, or half barrel of it, and set it in the cellar, and then keep a suppl)' for the casters in a junk bottle in the kitchen. If too strong, vinegar will eat pickles.

White Pepper. — This is better to buy than the black. It is the produce of the same plant as that which produces the latter, from which it is man- ufactured by steeping this in lime and water, and rubbing it between the hands till the coats come ofi". The best berries only will bear this operation ; hence the superior qualities of white pepper command a higher price than the other. It is less acrid than the black, and is much prized among the Chinese. It is sometimes adulterated with rice-flour, as the black is with burnt bread. The berries of the pepper-plant grow in spikes of from twenty to thirty, and are, when ripe, of a bright-red color. After being gathered, which is done when they are green, they are spread out in the sun, where they become black and shrivelled, when they are ready to be prepared for the market.

Dressing Poultry for Market. — Secure plump well fattened fowls. Dc not feed for at least twenty-four hours before killing. Scald enough to make the feathers come off" easily, picking both feathers and pin feathers oft" nicely. Be careful not to bruise or break the skin in any way, because it injures the sale. Leave all the entrails in, and head and feet on. Immediately aftei they are dressed, dip once in boiling hot water, letting them remain in about

1034 HINTS ABOUT MARKETING.

ten seconds ; then dip into ice-cold water, allowing them to remain in the same length of time, then hang in a cool place where they will dry before packing. Ducks should be treated same as fowls or chickens. Pack in boxes or barrels in nice, clean rye or oat straw. Boxes holding from luO lbs. to 200 lbs. are the most desirable style of packages. Pack with breasts down, using straw between each layer.

Be sure to pack solid, so they will not bruise on the way. Poultry pre- pared in this way will meet with a ready sale, while poorly dressed, sweaty (caused by being packed while warm) and bruised lots will not sell at any time. Large, fat, dry picked turkeys and chickens sell well. They kIiouM be picked at once after killing, and hung up until the animal heat is entirely out before packing. Remember, it is the appearance of goods that sells them. Nice, large, fat, plump turkeys, chickens, ducks, or geese, always bring outside prices.

The best time to ship. — Any time after the tenth of November, so as to reach market by Wednesday or Thursday of each week. If sent for the holidays, they should arrive at least three days before Thanksgiving, Christ- mas or New Year's. Keep the largest turkeys for New Year's. Geese sell best at Christmas.

Wood. — A table showing the comparative value of various woods is given with the table of weights and measures. That cut from the body of a mature tree is best.

Soft Coal. — The objection to soft coal is the dust that arises from it, and the unpleasant smell of the gases of combustion. There is a great differ- ence in the quality of soft coals from different mines, and it will be easy to learn the best varieties in the local market.

Hard Coal. — Bad coal has flat, dull pieces in it which remain hard, heavy and whitish when burned, called "bone". If in a scuttle full of coal weighing twenty-five pounds, a half pound of these white pieces are found, the coal is not good. Coal is pronounced good if it breaks at right angles lirnily and with a bright fracture. If it shatters or is full of dull pieces, it is poor in <iuality. There is a vast difference in hard coal, a difference which few understand.

Coke is sold in many markets. It kindles readily and makes an intense heat. It is lighter than coal and costs about the same price per ton. It is cleaner than soft coal for burning in open grates.