OAR VINO

It is no trifling accomplishment tyj carve well, and both ladies and gen- tlemen ought to so far make carving a study that they may be able to per- form the task with sufficient skill at least to prevent remark. There are no real difficulties in the way of mastering the accomplishment ; knowledge simply is required. All displays of exertion are in bad taste, because they indicate a want of ability on the part of the carver, or a strong indication of the toughness of the roast or the age of the bird. A good knife of moderate size and great sharpness is a necessity. Fowls are easily carved, and in roasts such as loins, breasts, fore-quarters, etc., the butcher should always liave instructions to separate the joints. The platter should be placed so nAr to the carver that he has full control over it ; if far oflf nothing can prevent an ungraceful appearance. In carving a turkey, place the head to the right, cut off the wing nearest you first, then the leg and second joint ; then slice the breast until a rounded, ivory-shaped piece appears ; insert the knife be- tween that and the bone and separate them ; this part is the nicest bit of tlu- breast; next comes the "merry-thought." After this, turn over the bird a little, and just below the breast you will find the "oyster", which you can separate as you did the inner breast. The side bone lies beside the rump, and the desired morsel can be taken out without separating the whole bone. Proceed in the same way upon the other side. The fork need not be re- moved during the whole process. An experienced carver will dissect a fowl as easily as you can break an egg or cut a potato. He retains his seat, man- ages his hands and elbows artistically, an

A fillet of veal is cut in thin, smooth slices off the top, and proportions of the stuffing and fat are served to each. In cutting a breast of veal, separ- ate the breast and brisket, an<l then cut them up.

Shoulder of Mutton.

and is to be cut in thin slices in the direc- tion of d. The under part contains manj' favorite slices, of different sorts, which may l)e cut crosswise in slices, near the shank bone at b or lengthwise in broad pieces at the large end a. If it is intended to reserve a part cold, the under parts should be served hot, as they are more palatable than when cold, and the upper part is kept more sightly for the table.

Shoulder of Mutton. — ^Though commonlj' regarded as a homely joint, is by many pre- ferred to the leg, as there is much variety of flavor, as well as texture, in both the upper parts. The figure represents it laid in the dish as usually served, back upper- most. Cut through it from a down to the blade-bone at b. Afterwards slice along each side of the blade-bone from c to b. The best part of the fat lies in the outer edge,

Shoulder of Mutton, Under part.

Saddle of Mutton.

Saddle of Mutton should be cut in long and rather thin slices from the tail to the end, beginning at each side close to the back-bone from a to b, with slices of fat from c to d, or along the bone which divides the two loins, so as to loosen from it the whole of the meat from that side which you then cut crosswise, thus giving with each slice both fat and lean. The tail-end is usually divided and part- ly turned up.

Knuckle of Veal is to be carved in the direction of 1 to 2. The most delicate fat lies al)out the part 4 and if cut in the line :] to 4 the two bones between which the marrowy fat lies, will be divided.

Fore-quarter of Lamb. — Pass the knife under the shoulder in the direction of a, b, c, d, so as to separate it from the ribs without cutting the meat too much off the bones. Divide an orange or lemon, sprinkle the halves with salt or pepper and squeeze

KnucKlt of Veal.

For*-quart«r of Lamb.

the juice over the under part, take to table and the carver should then divide ribs from d to e, serving them , or the neck f, or the breast g, as may be selected.

Haunch of Venison. — Have the joint lengthwise before you, the knuckle being the farther joint. Cut from a to b, but be careful not to let

out the gravy, then cut along the whole length from a down to d. The knife should slope in making the first cut, and then the whole of the ;.'ravy will he secured in the well. The greater part of the fat, which is the favorite part, will be found at the left side, and care must he taken to serve some with each slice.

HauDch of Velrtson.

Leq of Pork. — A leg of pork whether boiled or roasted, is carved the same. Begin aljout midway, l>etween the knuckle and tiie thick end, and cut theui in deep slices from either side of the line 1 to 2

IJam. — Serve it with the back upwards, sometimes ornamented, and generally hav- ing, as in P>ance, the shank-hone covered Leg of Pork. with cut paper. Begin at the middle by

cutting long and very thin slices from a to h,

continuing down the thick fat at the broad

end. The tirst slice should be wedge-shaped,

that all the others may lie cut slanting, which

gives a handsome appearance to them. Many

persons, however, prefer the hock at d as

having more flavor ; it is then carved length- wise from c to d.

Fillet of Veal. — Pare off the upper part

one slice from the whole surface half an inch thick, and put it aside, then cut thin slice of l)oth lean and fat. The round and aitclf-bone is carved in the same way. In carving the first slice, if any one ]>refers the brown, it may l)e cut thiniu-r and divid- ed, and a portion served to each person wiio likes it.

Round or Aitrh-bone of Beef. — These are Fillet of Veal. carved like a fillet of veal. The soft fat

wnich resembles marrow, lies back of the aitch-bone, below c, but the firm fat should l>e cut in slender horizontal slices at a, and is much better than the soft when eat- en cold.

Rnhhifg. — Put the point of the knife under the shoulder at b, and so cut all the way down to the rump, along the sides of till' backbone, in the limb, b, a, cutting it in moderately thick slices ;or, after remov- Round or Aitcu-bonc of heef.

ing the shoulders and legs, cut the back crosswise in four or five pieces! hut this can only be done when the rablut is very young, or when it is boned. To separate the legs and shoulders, put the knife between the leg and hack and give it a little turn inwards at the point, which you must endeavor to hit and not to break by force. The shoulders nuiy be removed by a

upper flat on your plate cut the head in two.

circular cut around them. The back is the most delicate part, and next to that the thighs. A portion of the stuffing should be served with each slice. The brain and ears of the sucking pig and rabbit are slso con- sidered epicurian tid-bits, which must not be neglected ; therefore, when every one is helped, cut off the head, put your knife between the upper and lower jaw and di- vide them, which will enable )'ou to lay the then put the point of the knife into the center and

Winged Game and Ponliry. — The carving of winged game and poultry re- quires more delicacy of hand and nicety in hitting the joints than the cutting of large pieces of meat, and, to be neatlj- done, requires considerable prac- tice. The carving knife should be smaller and lighter and the point and handle longer than for meats.

Roast Turkey. — Cut long slices from each side of the breast down to the ribs, beginning at a i from the wing to the breast bone. Then turn the tur- key upon the side nearest you, and cut off the leg and wing ; when the knife is passed between the limbs and the body, and pressed outward, the joint will be easily perceived.

Then turn the turkey on the other side, and an^^». ^,^r?ntJJ5W'%s^3l^" - cut olf the leg and wing. Separate the drum- •raF M^'"'^^' -'^toOLT^-^) sticks from the leg bones, and the pinions

from the wings ; it is hardly possible to mis- ** ^'^^^^^^^it^^ll take the joint. Cut the stuffing in thin slices lengthwise. Take ofF the neck-bones, which are two triangular bones on each side of the breast ; this is done by passing the knife from the back un- der the blade part of each neck-bone, until it reaches the end ; by raising the knife the other branch will easily crack olf. Separate the carcass from the

back by passing the knife lengthwise from the neck downward. Turn the back upwards and lay the edge of the knife across the back-bone about midway between the legs and wings ; at ^^ the same moment, phice the fork within the lower part of the turkey, and lift it up ; this will make the back-bone crack at the knife. The croup, or lower part of the back being cut off, put it on the plate with the rump from vou. Boiled Turi^er, ^^^^^ ^^^^-^ ^ff^i^^ side-boucs by forciug' the

knife from the rump to the other end. The choicest parts of turkey are the side bones, the breast and the thigh bones. The breast and wings are called lightmeat; the thigh-bones and side-bones dark meat. When a person de- clines expressing a preference, it is polite to help to both kinds.

Boiled Turkey is carved in the same way as the roast, the onlydilferen<-e being in the trussing ; the legs in boiled being, as here shown, drawn into the body, and in the roast skewered.

Roast Fowl. — Slip the knife between the leg and body, and cut to the bone ; then with the fork turn the leg back, and the joint will give way if the bird is not old. Take the wing off in the direction of a to b, only dividing the joint with your knife. When the four quarters are thus removed, take

off the meny-thought from c, and the neck l)une.s, these last, by puttinj: in the knife at (/, and i)ressing it, ■will break off from the jiart that sticks to tiie breast. The next tiling is to divide the breast from the car- cass, by catting through the tender ribs close to the l)reast, quite down to the tail. Then raise the lower end of rump an<l it

■will separate easily. Turn the rump from Roa:.i fowi.

you, take off the two sidesmen, and tlie whole will be done. To separate the thigh from the drumstick of the leg insert the knife into the joint as above. It requires practice to hit the joint at tlie first trial. The breast and wings are considered the l)est parts. If tlie bird be a capon, or large, and roasted, the breast may be cut into slices the same Avay as the pheasant. The differ- ence in the carvingof boiled and roast fowls consists only in the breast of the latter Vic- ing always served whole, and the thigli- bones being generally jirefered to the wing.

Geese. — Cut thin slices from the breast at a to h ; the wing is generally sejiarated as in turkeys, but the leg is almost con- stantly reserved for broiling. Serve a lit- tle of the seasoning from the inside by cutting a circular slice intheaprcm at c.

Pheasant, — Slip ihe knife between the leg and the breast; cut off a wing then slice the breast, and you will have two or three handsome cuts. Cut off the merry thought by passing the knife under it towards the neck, and cut all the other parts as in a fowl. The breast, wings, and merry-thought are the most esteemed; but the thigh has a high Havor.

Partridge. — It may be cut up in the same manner as a fowl ; but the bird being small, it is unusual to divide it into more than three portions — tlie leg and wing being left to- gether, and the breast helped entire ; the back, being only served along with some otlier parts. If the birds are very panrMce.

young, and the party not over large, the whole body is notunfrequentlv only separated into two pieces, by one cut of the knife from head to tail.

Quails. — Generally helped whole.

Grouse, Snipe and Woodcock. — Proceed as for partridge. As regards these

different sorts of game, the thigh of the pheasant and woodcock is the best, and the lireast and wing of the partridge and grouse ; ])ut the most epicurean morsel of all is the trail of the woodcock served \ip on toast. Smaller birds should always be helped as they are roasted, whole.

In serving fish some practice is needful, for liglitness of touch and dex- terity of management are necessary to prevent the flakes from breaking. In serving mackerel, shad, etc., a part of the roe should be placed on each plate. The tins of the turbot are most sought for ; the lish is placed underjiart up- ]icrmost on tlie platter, as there lies the primest part. In carving salmon, a portion of the back and belly should be served to each person. The clioic(>st morsels are next to the head, the thin part comes next, and the tail is the least esteemed. The flavor of the libh nearest the bone is not etpial to that on the upper part.

T.l'TTKH .\X!) CHKHSK. K»50

13UTTER AISTD ClIEESK.

No sloven r-an make good butter. The one thiufi to be kept in mind, morn- ing, noon and night, is neatness, neatness, neatness. Tlie milking should be done in the cleanest place that can be found, and the cows shoulil be kept as clean as possible. AVash the teats and udders thoroughly with plenty of cold water, and wipe with a cloth or towel. Never wash with the hand moistened with milk from the cow. The least impurity taints the cream, and takes from the sweetness of the butter. Milk perfectly clean (as the last pint is twice as rich in butter as the first), and the quicker the milking is done the more milk is obtained. The milk-room should be clean and sweet its air pure, and temperature about 62 degrees. As soon as a pail is filled, take to the milk-room and strain the milk through a fine wire-cloth strainer, kept for the purpose, and not attached to the pail (the simjile strainer being more easily kept clean.) Never alloiu milk to stand in the stable and cool, as it absorbs the foul odors of the place. The pans '(flat stone crocks with flaring sides are better than tin pans. In winter hot water should be poured into them while milking is being done, and poured out just before straining the milk into them) should be set on slats, rather than.shelves, as it is important to have the milk cooled from the animal heat as soon as possible. Skim each day, or at longest within twenty-four hours. Souring does not injure the quality of the cream, but the milk should not be allowed to become watery. In winter always put a little sour milk in bottom of cream crock at first skim- ming. Do not use a perforated skimmer, but remove a little of the milk with the cream, as this does not injure t

1060 ihtteu and ciikkse.

with the (lash, it should be removed to the table or bowl, and thoroughl}- workcd with a flat wooden paddle, (never with the hand, as the insensible perspiration will more or less taint the butter), iisin^ an abundance of cold soft water to wash out the buttermilk and harden the butter. By this pro- cess the buttcfmilk is removed quickly, and there is no need of excessive working, which injures the grain of the butter. This is especially true of that which is packed, as it keeps longer when well washed. If to be used immediately, the washing may be less thorough. Another and better plan is to remove the butter to'a mar1)lc slab and lay on top of it a piece of ice. As it settles down bv its own weight, work it up around the edges with a paddle, and the water from the melting ice will wash out and carry off the butter- milk. Before or during the churning, the bowl (which should never be used for anything else) in which the butter is to be salted, should be tilled with scalding water, which should remain for ten minutes ; pour out and rub both bowl and paddle with hard coarse salt, which prevents butter from sticking. Rinse thoroughlv and till with cold or ice-water to cool. After washing but- ter free from milk, remove to this bowl, having first poured out the cold water, and (the butter bowl and paddle should occasionally be scoured with sand or ashes, washed thoroughly with soap-suds, and rinsed until all smell of soap has disappeared) work in gradually salt which has been pulverized by rolling, and freed from foreign substances. If wanted for use, one-half ounce of salt to the pound of butter is sufficient, but if wanted for packing, use three-fourths of an ounce or even an ounce of sa

Straining Milk. — Do* not strain warm milk into cold ; it causes whey.

Care of the Cream. — Stirring the cream in cream crock increases the quan- tity of butter.

}yhUe Sjiecks in Butter.— The cream being too sour is generally the cause of this, as when the cream is warnKMl by churning it forms what is known as clabber cheese and that makes the white specks.

Batter Rollers.— Two wooden i)addles made in form of engraving are diiy T)ed into cold water, and a little pat of butter placed between them and rolled around until a little ball is formed, Avith a i)retty net- work surface. This may be piled on the butterdish, or served on individual butter dishes at the plates.

Testing Butter. — The following simple test for the detection of spurious and genuine butter emanates from good authority: Place a little butter on a cotton wick and set li'dit to it for one ur two minutes ; then blow uut the liame. The odor

BUTTKR AND CHEESE. lOGl

of the vapor is a good indication of its puritj^ or adulteration. If it be mixed with lard, the odor is more intense than if mixed with tallow. The artificial butter has less water than the natural butter.

Creameries. — All housewives who make butter should examine immedi- ately the new inventions which substitute deep setting for the old-fashioned plan of setting in shallow pans. The new system is not only cleaner, but it produces as much and a better quality of butter, and does away with one-half of the hard work of butter making. Besides, the creameries, of which there are several good ones, take up but very little space, relieve the pantry shelves of the great number of pans required by the old way, and make a milk house unnecessary. They are not costly, and are great woman savers.

Bright Butter. — In skimming cream ofFmilK there should always be milk enough skimmed off with the cream to give the butter, when churned a bright, clean look. Butter churned from clear cream with little or no milk in it will usually have an oily or shiny look. This shows that the grain of the butter is injured, which affects the keeping qualities of the butter.

Keeping Butter. — "When in the granular state, if butter be washed free from extraneous matter its keeping qualiiies are far superior to that in wliich these elements are allowed to remain, even though in small quantities. When the butter is washed by a not very strong brine it is then possible for salt to preserve it, but if the matter remains salting will not benefit it, though con- cealing other flavors. AVhen butter is washed with the brine it is jaossible to churn, salt and pack at one operation, thereby saving labor.

What To Do With Rancid Butter. — When butter has become very rancid it should be melted several times by a moderate heat, with or without the addition of water, and after cooling extract any water it may have retained, then put it into jars and cover closely. The French often add to it, after it has been melted, a piece of toasted bread, which helps to destroy the ten- dency of the butter to rancidity.

Butter in. Winter. — Heat the milk as soon as strained until a lif^-ht texture is formed on the surface, then set as usual. The safest way to'' do this is --llher in oven or in another vessel of boiling water. It is not necessary to let the milk stand more than forty-eight hours in following this method and the milk is good for many culinary purposes. If milk freezes before all cream has risen, skim as soon as frozen, putting frozen cream and milk in cream crock and then reheating the milk that is left, when more cream will rise. AVhen about to churn, place your jar of cream near the fire and stir often' turning the jar around occasionally. Churn slowly until the butter is nearly ready to gather.

Granular Butter.-Writers on butter making now insist that the best churns are made without a dash, butter should be churned only until granules are the size of a grain of wheat, then draw ofi" buttermilk and rinse until water runs off clear, then take half pint coarse salt, dissolve in two gallons water l)or;r on butter and let stand twenty or thirty minutes, draw off and let drain well then take out, weigh, spread out as much as possible and sprinkle even- ly over it one ounce of salt to a pound of butter. Mix well but do not work gently press grains together and set aside twenty-four hours. Then work out all the water, but if a paddle is used be careful not to let it slide over the butter. After the water is all out every stroke injures the grain. Scour the 4 churn once a week with coarse salt.

Keeping Butter in Warm Weather.— Work thebutter thoroughly to extract the buttermilk and pack in stone crocks to within two or three inches of the top ; cover with a cloth and fill up with salt ; put two or three thicknesses

10(52 BUTTEli AND CHEESE,

of paper on top and a board over all ; dig a hole in the ground, three feet deep, in a shady place, in which place the crocks and fill up with earth.

Brine for Butter. — In parking for family use, work into rolls, lay in large ytoue crocks, cover with l)rine strong enough to tloat an egg (one pint of salt to a gallon of water), in which a level teaspoon of saltpeter and a pound of white sugar to each two gallons have been added ; over it place a cotton cloth and a weight to keep tlie butter under the brine, and the paper over the top of crock. Or, pack in a stone jar, pressing it solid with a wooden pestle, cover with a cloth wet in brine, and sprinkle over it salt an inch thick. More sugar may be added to tlie brine without injury ; if butter is to 1m' kept a long time it is a good rule to always make brine so strong tliat salt will lie at the bottom of the jar. Some boil and skim the brine and when r Id, pour it over the butter. When ready to pack the next cliuniing, re- move the cloth with the salt carefully, rinsing otf with water any that mav Iiavc been scattered in uncovering it, paok butter as before, replace cloth V. ith salt <^)vcr it, and repeat until jar is filled to within two inches of the top, cover all with cloth, add salt to the top of crock, tie paper over the top, and set in a cool place. In removing for use each churning comes out by itself, or pack inlayers as thick as you wish for the table, put a cloth and salt be- tween each layer and <m top. It keeps very nice and one can cut nice pieces tor the table.

Butter Worked Once. — The experience of one who does this is as follows : "I use a barrel churn, although a box churn without a paddle in it does as well. I let the milk stand twenty-four hours, provided it does not sour; if it does, skim as soon as it l)egins to turn. If you have sour and sweet cream, mix and let it stand ai\ hour or more V)efore churning; as sour c(.)mes more i|uickly, consequently the sweet would be left in the buttermilk. I use a thermometer and test the cream, never churning it warmer than sixty-four ilegrees, and not colder than sixty-two ; and I granub'te the butter, never al- jjwing itto gather. Sometimes the granula areas largeas kernelsof wheat, but generally smaller. Draw oil' the buttermilk,. then put in cold water; draw off some more and add more water; let it stand a few minutes and draw off again ; then put in more cold water, and cover the churn up and let it stand ten minutes; then draw oft' all the water and put the salt in the churn ; put the cover on and churn it just a little ; let it stand one hour, turn- ing the churn over once in a while, say four or five times in the course of an hour ; then take it out on the butter worker, and work it only enough to get the brine out, and pack it down. If this plan is followed out your but- ter will never be streaked, and it w ill keep all summer or longer.

Home-made Cheese. — To make it thus have a carpenter make a strong little screw-press, using a work bench screw which makes it very inexpen- sive and answers the purpose well, pressing the whey out, and leaving the cheese smooth and firm as the factory nuide' The other implements are a ;)eck measure with the bottom knocked out, and gimlet holes bored in the sides, with a strong cover to fit clo.sely inside, a few yards of thin muslin (flour sacks are good), and a large bowl and chopping knife. Buy the ren- net of the butcher, and strain the night's milk into a tin wash boiler, then «train the morning's milk in with it, which will nuikethe boiler about three- fourths full. Soak a piece of rennet nearly half the size of a hand in a pint of warm water overnight; after warming the milk as warni as wlien milkinl from the cows, strain the rennet water in, stir well, and let sit lialf an hour, or till it is firm curd ; then cut in squares with a long knife or slat that will reach the bottom ; stir with the hand around two or three times slowly, be- ing careful to reach the bottom, and lot if set five minutes; then cut finer

BUTTER AND CHEESE. lOBo

and stir harder; don't hurry the whey out at first or cheese will be tough. Lay a thin cloth over the boiler and press down on the curd and dip all the whey off that can be got ; then stir, and dip again ; when the whey is nearly all out pour it in a thin cloth and hang to drip dry ; then put in a bowl and chop tine, adding a little salt, then put a thin cloth over the hoop, put the curd in, lay one end of the cloth over, and put in the press ; screw down lightly at first, and finally very hard ; leave in one day, then turn, and pieps two more days ; take out, grease, and rub with cayenne pepper. Keep cheese in a dark room up stairs, grease, and turn every day. Or have a long bench upon which place two new tubs, (without being painted inside,) in which "set" the milk. When the cheese has come, or when thick enough not to stick to a knife blade, cut with a long cheese knife, consistin-g of five blades, into small checks. Then, after standing until the whey will separate from the curd, place a thin cloth of "cheese cloth" one and a fourth yards square upon it ; then carefully with a short-handled two quart cup, care being taken not to bring white whey, lift the curd up gently with the hand. Let stand awhile and then dip again, so continuing till the curd hardens somewhat. Have a kettle of hot whey and pour it over, stirring it the while ; let it stand for a time, lift up the curd with the hand, and when another kettleful is hot, scald again. Be sure and not let the whey burn. Generally two and three kettles of whey are sufficient. The object' of letting it stand between scald- ing is to cure "it. When scalded it should be of a yellow color and hard enough to break

1004 THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD.