THE TOILET

511. Personal beauty is the gift of nature, but its preservation depends much on the care of its possessor. Beauty may also be cultivated and enhanced; even plainness may be improved, and the defects that sickness, accidents, and age impress on the human features and form, may be greatly remedied by simple means, and attention to a few important rules.

The first requisite for the preservation and improvement of personal beauty is _good temper_. The teachings of the New Testament, if you follow its precepts, will insure you this grace. The second requirement is _good health_. The most important rules for its preservation and recovery are given in this chapter. The third requisite comprises attention to neatness, and that general care of the person which the rules and receipts we here subjoin, will aid in making complete.

512. _Of the Hair._--It is a great mistake to plait the hair of children under eleven or twelve years of age. The process of plaiting more or less strains the hairs in their roots by pulling them tight; tends to deprive them of their requisite supply of nutriment; and checks their growth. The hair of girls should be cut rather short, and allowed to curl freely. When they are about eleven or twelve, the hair should be twisted into a coil, not too tight, nor tied at the end with thin thread, but with a piece of riband.

513. _Do not Shave the Head._--Shaving the head is always injurious to the hair, the bulbs being frequently destroyed by the process; and washing frequently with an alkaline preparation, such as soap and water, is decidedly objectionable, for that, as well as sea-water, is very apt to change the color of the hair.

514. _To purify and beautify the Hair._--An excellent means of keeping the hair sweet, clean, glossy, and curly, is to brush it with a rather hard brush dipped by the surface only in eau de Portugal ("Portugal water"). In order to have it fresh and of fine quality, take a pint of orange flower water, a pint of rose water, and half a pint of myrtle water. To these put a quarter of an ounce of distilled spirit of musk, and an ounce of spirit of ambergris. Shake the whole well together, and the water will be ready for use. Only a small quantity should be made at a time, as it does not keep long, except in moderate weather, being apt to spoil either with cold or heat.

515. _To promote the Growth of Hair._--Mix equal parts of olive oil and spirits of rosemary, and add a few drops of oil of nutmeg. If the hair be rubbed every night with a little of this liniment, and the proportion be very gradually augmented, it will answer every purpose of increasing the growth of hair, much more effectually than can be attained by any of the boasting empirical preparations which are imposed on the credulous purchaser.

516. _Curling Liquid for the Hair._--When the hair will not curl naturally, the curling irons should not be used; they only extract the moisture, and render the hair crisp and harsh. An excellent curling liquid is the following:--Put two pounds of common soap, cut small, into three pints of spirits of wine, with eight ounces of potash, and melt the whole, stirring it with a clean piece of wood. Add some essence of amber, vanilla, and nevoli, about a quarter of an ounce of each, to render the fluid agreeable. The liquids which are sold for the professed purpose of assisting in curling the hair, are chiefly composed of either oily or extractive substances.

517. _To prevent Hair from falling out._--Make a strong decoction of white-oak bark in water, and use it freely. It is best to make but little at a time, and have it fresh at least once a fortnight.

518. _To avoid Grey Hairs._--Those who would avoid that prominent mark of approaching old age, called grey hair, must be careful in the treatment of the hair in their youth. They must avoid constricting the skin, and strangling the hair at its roots, and everything that may throw into the blood an undue portion of lime. We say an _undue_ portion, because a certain quantity of lime is indispensable in our system for repairing the wear and tear of the bones, teeth, &c. The lime necessary for the repair of bone is manufactured by the stomach and liver, along with the blood, from various articles of our diet which contain it. The greatest supply is usually from the water which we drink, or which is employed in the various processes of cooking and preparing liquors. All animal food also contains some portion of lime, as well as some of the sorts of vegetable food. Ascertain, then, by chemical trial, whether the water used for your tea, coffee, soups, &c., contains a large proportion of lime; and, if it do, you must either have it chemically purified, or remove to some other place where the water is more free from lime. If water be hard, you may be certain that it contains too much lime to be safely used. Rain-water is the safest for tea and other liquids. Bread will always contain a portion of lime; you must, therefore, be careful in dealing with respectable bakers, who will not increase that unavoidable quantity by means of adulterating matter (such as whiting) which contains lime.

519. _To soften and cleanse the Hair._--Beat up an egg, rub it well into the hair, and then wash the head well. If the hair is very oily, add the juice of half a lemon. This receipt also answers much better for washing pet dogs than soap.

520. _To make a Curling Fluid for the Hair._--Melt a piece of white bees'-wax, about the size of a filbert kernel or large pea, in one ounce of olive oil; to this add one or two drops of attar of roses or any other perfume.

521. _Gen. Twiggs' Hair Dye._--Dissolve in a pint of rose-water, one ounce of lac sulphur, and half an ounce of sugar of lead. Wet the hair with this mixture thoroughly every night, shaking the bottle occasionally. Some persons prefer whisky to rose-water, in mixing the articles.

522. _To change Hair to a deep Brown._--A solution of silver caustic in water is the foundation of all the nostrums for this purpose. It must be well diluted before used.

523. _To dye the Hair Black._--Procure from the dyer's a quantity of walnut-water; and with this wash the hair, as the first part of the process. Then make an aromatic tincture of galls, by scenting the common tincture with any agreeable perfume; and with this wet the hair, which must next be moistened with a strong solution of sulphate of iron.

524. _A simple Hair-dye._--Boil in a pint of water a handful of rosemary; when cold, strain and bottle, but do not cork it. Renew it every few weeks. Wet the hair with it every night.

525. _To darken the Eye-brows._--Take an ounce of walnuts, an ounce of frankincense, an ounce of resin, and an ounce of mastick. Burn them all on clear, red-hot charcoal, and receive the fumes into a funnel, in which a very fine black powder, slightly perfumed and unctuous, will adhere. Mix this with a little oil of myrtle, in a leaden mortar, and apply it to the eye-brows. This paste has the property of resisting both heat and perspiration; but it must be occasionally renewed. The following method may also be used: Burn a clove in the flame of a wax-candle, dip it into the juice of elder-berries, and apply it to the eye-brows. The powder, also, which is used in the East for painting the eye-lashes, and which is composed of antimony and bismuth, may be safely and advantageously used. Or, a paste prepared from powdered black lead, with eau de Cologne, or oil of myrtle, or essence of bergamot, will suffice for the purpose. When the eye-brows become long and shaggy, they give a ferocious and repulsive expression to the countenance. The scissors should in that case be often used. Some of the longest hairs might also be removed with the tweezers.

526. _To know whether Hair Powder is adulterated with Lime._--Put a little crude sal-ammoniac, in powder, to the suspected hair powder, and add a little warm water to the mixture, and stir it about; if the powder has been adulterated with lime, a strong smell of volatile alkali will arise from this mixture.

527. _To perfume Hair Powder._--Take one drachm of musk, four ounces of lavender blossoms, one and a half drachm of civet, and half a drachm of ambergris; pound the whole together, and pass it through a sieve. Preserve this mixture in well-stopped bottles, and add more or less thereof, as agreeable, in your hair powder.

528. _To improve the Hair._--Powdered hartshorn, mixed with oil, being rubbed upon the head of persons who have lost their hair, will cause it to grow again. A very good oil for the hair is made by mixing one part of the liquid hartshorn with nine parts of pure castor-oil.

529. _An economical Hair Wash._--Dissolve in one quart of boiling water one ounce of borax and half an ounce of camphor; these ingredients fine. When cool, the solution will be ready for use. Damp the hair with it frequently. This wash not only cleanses and beautifies, but strengthens the hair, preserves the color, and prevents baldness.

530. _To remove Superfluous Hair._--This is very difficult, for if you pull the hair out by the roots from those places which it disfigures, there are thousands of roots ready to start through the skin the moment you make room for them. Old authors recommend depilatories in great variety. The principal of these methods consist in rubbing upon the part from which the hair is to be removed, leaven, parsley water, juice of acacia, the gum of ivy or of the cherry-tree, dissolved in spirits of wine, &c. Madame Elisi Voiart, in her "Encyclopédie des Dames," recommends a few drops of dulcified spirit of salt, (that is, muriatic acid distilled with rectified spirits of wine,) to be applied with a camel hair pencil.