The Pastes

2356—ORDINARY SHORT PASTE

Sift one lb. of flour over the mixing-board; make a hollow in its midst, and put therein one-sixth oz. of salt, one-third pint of cold water, and one-half lb. of butter well softened—especially in winter. Mix the flour gradually with the butter and the water; mass the whole a moment or two, and knead it (see No. 2357) twice. Then roll it up in a ball; wrap it in a piece of linen that its surface may not dry, and put it aside in the cool.

_Remarks_: A kneaded paste should be prepared either one day, or at least a few hours, in advance, in order that it may lose that elasticity which it acquires from the kneading.

Pastes, after they have rested awhile, are much more easily treated, and bake a much more definite and lighter colour, than those that are used as soon as they are prepared.

2357—THE KNEADING OF PASTES

The object of kneading paste is to combine the ingredients of which it is composed thoroughly, and also to smooth it. Proceed as follows:—

When the paste is mixed, roll it into a mass; put it in front of one; then press it away from one, little by little, between the board and the palm of the hand. For the paste to be perfectly smooth, it ought to be treated twice in this way.

2358—FINE, SHORT OR FLAWN PASTE (For Fruit Tarts)

Sift one lb. of flour on to the mixing-board, and hollow it out. Put in the hollow one-third oz. of salt, one and one-half oz. of powdered sugar, an egg, one-fourth pint of cold water, and ten oz. of butter. First, thoroughly mix the butter, the egg, the water, and the seasoning, and then gradually combine the flour with it.

Knead the paste; press it out twice; roll it into a ball, and wrap it up as before with the view of setting it aside in the cool to rest.

2359—DRESSING PASTE (Pâte à Pâté)

Take one lb. of sifted flour, four oz. of butter, one egg, one-third oz. of salt, and one-fourth pint of water. Mix as already directed; knead twice; roll up the paste, and set it in the cool to rest. This paste should be kept somewhat firm.

2360—DRESSING PASTE WITH LARD

Take one lb. of sifted flour, four oz. of lard, one-quarter pint of tepid water, one egg, one-third oz. of salt, and proceed exactly as in the case of No. 2359.

2361—DUMPLING AND PUDDING PASTES

Break up ten oz. of very dry beef suet, and carefully clear it of all little pieces of skin and connective tissue. Chop it up as finely as possible; sift one lb. of flour on to the mixing-board; hollow it out; and put into the hollow one-half oz. of salt, one and one-half oz. of sugar, one-third pint of water, and the chopped suet. Mix up these various ingredients, and, by degrees, combine the flour with them.

Mass the paste together, without kneading it, and put it aside in the cool until it is wanted.

2362—DRY SUGARED PASTE FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES

Take one lb. of sifted flour, seven oz. of butter, five oz. of powdered sugar, three eggs, and one-half tablespoonful of orange-flower water.

Mix in the usual way, knead it twice; roll it into a ball, and keep it wrapped up, in the cool, until required.

2363—PASTE FOR SMALL GUMMED TEA-CAKES

Take one lb. of sifted flour, ten oz. of butter, ten oz. of sugar, one egg, the yolks of four, and a tablespoonful of orange-flower water.

Mix up gradually; mass the paste together, and roll it out into a thin layer, twice. Roll it up, and let it rest awhile in the cool before it is used.

2364—GUMMING

In the case of certain small cakes, especially those served at tea, it is usual to gum their surfaces in order to make them glossy. For this purpose a thin solution of gum arabic is used, and it is smeared over the cakes as they leave the oven, by means of a small brush.

Cakes may also be gummed with a syrup formed from milk and sugar, which mixture may be used instead of gum arabic with advantage.

2365—GALETTE PASTE

Hollow out one lb. of sifted flour and put in its midst one-third oz. of salt, two oz. of powdered sugar, one-quarter pint of water, and one-half lb. of softened butter.

Mix, taking care to include the flour only by degrees; thoroughly knead, that the ingredients may be well combined, and mass the paste together without making it too elastic. Leave it to rest in the cool for at least an hour; then roll it out thrice, at intervals of eight minutes, for the reasons given under the directions for puff-paste.

2366—PUFF-PASTE

(1) Sift one lb. of flour on to the mixing-board. Make a hollow in it, and put therein one-third oz. of table salt and about one-half pint of cold water, and mix without kneading. Mass the paste together, and let it rest for twenty minutes, that it may lose its elasticity, which will be all the more pronounced for its having been very much worked. It is to avoid this elasticity, therefore, that the mixing of puff-paste should be effected with the smallest amount of kneading possible.

(2) Spread the prepared paste on a flour-dusted board, in the shape of an even galette. Spread thereon one lb. of softened butter, without completely covering the paste; draw the edges of the paste towards the centre, in such wise as to enclose the butter completely, and to form a square thickness of paste.

(3) Leave to rest for a further ten minutes and then begin the working of the paste; rolling it out to the length of one and one-half feet, and keeping it one in. thick. Fold this layer over thrice, and press upon it with the roller so as to join the superposed layers. The whole of this operation constitutes one turn.

Begin another turn immediately, turning the paste the reverse way, and folding it as before. Set it to rest in the cool for eight or ten minutes, and then effect two more turns.

Ten minutes after the two last turns (there should be six in all), the puff-paste is ready to be cut up and used.

_Remarks relative to puff-paste_: Good puff-paste should be buttered to the extent of one lb. per one and one-half lbs., _i.e._, one lb. of butter for every one lb. of flour mixed with one-half pint of water. The consistence of the paste and the butter should be exactly the same, if they are to be evenly mixed; the butter ought therefore to be softened—more particularly in winter.

In preparing puff-paste, remember to put it in a cool place while it is resting; but never directly upon ice; for, though the ice would not affect the paste, it might seriously affect the butter.

It would harden it to the extent of preventing its perfect mixture with the mass, and lumps would form. Puff-paste should be rolled out very regularly, with the view of thoroughly distributing the butter throughout the preparation, and thus ensuring its uniform rising.

Puff-paste should not be worked too speedily; for, if it be so worked, it will be found to acquire an elasticity which not only makes it difficult to cut up, but also tends to make it shrink in the baking.

2367—PUFF-PASTE TRIMMINGS OR HALF PUFF-PASTE

These are very useful in pastry work, for tartlets, _barquettes_, _croûtons_, &c. When the puff-paste is cut up, the trimmings should therefore be rolled into a ball, and put aside in the cool. Nevertheless they must be used within the space of two days in summer and four days in winter.

2368—ORDINARY BRIOCHE PASTE

(1) Sift one lb. of flour on to the board; take a quarter of it, make a hollow in it, and put therein one-quarter oz. of very fresh, dry yeast. Mix the yeast and the flour with a little tepid water, so as to obtain a soft paste which is the leaven. Roll this paste into a ball; make two slits in its top, at right angles to one another, and place it in a small basin.

Cover the latter, and put it in a somewhat warm place, that the leaven may be sure to ferment.

(2) Make a hollow in the remaining flour, and put into it one-quarter oz. of salt, and one and one-half oz. of sugar, together with two tablespoonfuls of milk to melt it, one-third of the whole amount of the butter to be used, namely, four oz., and four eggs.

Begin by thoroughly mixing the butter, eggs and seasoning, and then combine the flour therewith, by degrees. When the paste forms a compact mass, knead and pull it about with the hands, that it may be light. When, at the end of a few minutes, it has acquired a certain resilience, make a hole in the middle of it and add one egg. Mix the latter with the paste; work it afresh, and after an interval of two minutes add one more egg in the same way. The total number of eggs for the quantities of other ingredients given above should be six.

(3) Add the remaining butter (eight oz.) to the paste; the former being _manied_ and even softened, just sufficiently to make it of the same consistence as the paste.

Spread it on the latter, and mix the two; kneading small portions at a time, and combining those portions so as to mix the two elements completely.

At this stage, overturn the paste and spread the leaven (which should now be equal to twice its original bulk) upon it.

Mix it well as in the case of the butter, without working the paste.

Finally, put the paste into a basin; cover it, and place it in a temperate room.

For it to have the desired lightness, this paste should ferment for from ten to twelve hours. However, at the end of five or six hours, the process is arrested by the working of the paste; that is to say, by turning it out upon a flour-dusted board and beating it with the palm of the hand.

It is then returned to the basin to ferment afresh, for five or six hours; and then it is once more beaten just before being used.

2369—MOUSSELINE BRIOCHE PASTE

_Mousseline_ brioche paste is made from the ordinary kind, combined with a little butter and developed in the mould by fermentation before the baking process—which procedure makes it exceedingly light and delicate.

This paste is used in the preparation of certain timbales for fruit sweets, and it is prepared as follows:—

Take the required amount of ordinary brioche paste, and add to it, per lb. of paste, two oz. of best butter, softened to the consistence of an ointment, that it may thoroughly mix with the paste. Roll the paste into a ball, and put it in a liberally-buttered mould, only filling two-thirds of the latter with it. The remaining third of the mould gets filled by the rising of the paste. Place the mould in a temperate room, until the paste has risen to the edges of the mould; besmear the surface of the paste with a brush dipped in melted butter, and bake in a moderate oven.

2370—ORDINARY BRIOCHE PASTE (For Rissoles, Small Patties à la Dauphine, and Various other Preparations)

_Quantities_: one lb. of flour, seven oz. of butter, four fair-sized eggs, salt, a pinch of powdered sugar; one-third oz. of very dry, fresh yeast, and a little tepid milk.

(1) Make the leaven with a quarter of the flour, the yeast and the lukewarm milk, and set it to ferment while the paste is being prepared.

(2) Prepare the paste as already directed, and keep it fermenting as before for ten hours, taking care to arrest the process once.

The work is the same as in the preceding case, in every particular, except in regard to the amount of butter, which in this instance is only half as much; in regard to the amount of sugar, which should only be just sufficient to ensure the colouring of the paste; and finally in regard to its firmness, which should admit of the paste being worked with a rolling-pin.

2371—SAVARIN PASTE

_Quantities_: One lb. of flour; twelve oz. of butter; one-half oz. of very dry, fresh yeast; eight eggs; about one-third pint of milk; one-half oz. of salt, and one oz. of sugar.

_Procedure_: Savarin paste may be prepared in several ways; but the one given below is as simple and expeditious as could be desired.

Sift the flour into a basin (or a round wooden bowl, better suited to the work); hollow it out; add the yeast, and dissolve the latter by means of tepid milk, stirring slightly with the tip of the finger.

Add the eggs; mix the whole; work the paste by hand for a few minutes; detach those portions of it which have adhered to the side of the utensil, and add them to the whole.

Distribute the softened butter in small quantities over the paste. Cover, and place in a temperate room until the paste has grown to twice its original bulk. Then add salt; knead the paste, that it may thoroughly absorb the butter, and pat it briskly until it is sufficiently elastic to be taken up in one lump.

At this stage add the sugar, and work the paste again that the former may thoroughly mix with it. The sugar should only be added at the close of the operation; for, since it impairs the cohesiveness of the paste, it would render the latter much more difficult to work were it added at the start.

THE USES OF THIS PASTE

If it be for Savarins with syrup, it is customary to sprinkle the previously-buttered moulds with slightly-grilled, chopped or splintered almonds. Take the paste in small quantities at a time, and line the moulds with it to the extent of one-third of their height.

The remaining two-thirds of each mould become covered when the paste rises owing to fermentation.

Proceed in the same way for Savarins which are to be kept dry, for fruit crusts or other uses; but then the sprinkling of the moulds with almond may be omitted.

2372—PÂTE A BABA

_Quantities_: One lb. of flour; one-half lb. of butter; seven eggs; two-thirds oz. of yeast; one-fifth pint of milk; one-third oz. of salt; two-thirds oz. of sugar; three oz. of currants and sultanas in equal quantities.

_Procedure_: Proceed exactly as for Savarin paste, and add the currants and sultanas at the last with the sugar. In moulding, a few pipped Malaga raisins may be laid on the bottom of the moulds. As in the case of the Savarin, the paste should only fill one-third of the mould.

2373—ORDINARY PÂTE A CHOUX

_Quantities._—One pint of water; eight oz. of butter; one-third oz. of salt; one oz. of sugar; one lb. of sifted flour; sixteen fair-sized eggs, and a tablespoonful of orange-flower water.

_Procedure._—Put the water, butter, salt, and sugar in a saucepan and boil. When the liquid boils and rises, take the saucepan off the fire; add the flour, and mix. Return the saucepan to a moderate fire, and stir the paste until it ceases to stick to the spoon, and the butter begins to ooze slightly.

Take the saucepan off the fire; add the eggs, two at a time, taking care to mix each couple thoroughly with the paste before inserting the succeeding couple. When all the eggs have been absorbed, finish the paste with orange-flower water.

2374—COMMON PÂTE A CHOUX (For Souffléd Fritters, Gnochi, Potatoes à la Dauphine)

Proceed as directed above, but reduce the quantity of butter to three oz., and the number of eggs to twelve; avoid drying this paste overmuch.

2375—RAMEQUINS AND GOUGÈRE PASTE

This is prepared exactly like ordinary “Pâte à Choux,” except that:—

1. Milk takes the place of water.

2. The sugar and orange-flower water are omitted.

3. For the quantities given (No. 2373), eight oz. of fresh Gruyère, cut into dice, are added to the paste, after all the eggs have been added to it.

2376—PÂTE A GÉNOISE FINE

Put into a copper basin one lb. of powdered sugar and sixteen eggs. Mix the two; place the basin upon hot cinders or on the hob, and whisk its contents until they reach the _“ribbon” stage_ (see remarks below). Then add the selected aroma (vanilla sugar, orange rind, or liqueur, in the proportion of one tablespoonful of vanilla sugar or orange rind, and one liqueur-glass of liqueur, to the quantities given above), twelve oz. of sifted flour, and eight oz. of melted butter, the latter being carefully poured into the paste without allowing it to bubble. Mix these ingredients with the paste, raising the latter by means of a spatula that it may not get heavy.

Bake it in buttered and dredged moulds.

_Remarks._—A preparation of Biscuit or _Génoise_ reaches the _“ribbon” stage_ when it becomes thick, draws out in ribbon-form, and takes some time to level itself again when a spoon is pulled out of it. This state of the paste is also indicative of its lightness.

2377—ORDINARY GÉNOISE PASTE FOR CUTTING UP

_Quantities._—One lb. of sugar, twelve eggs, thirteen oz. of flour, eight oz. of butter, and the quantity of flavouring thought sufficient.

Proceed exactly as in the preceding recipe, in everything pertaining to the working of the paste.

This paste is baked in buttered and dredged cases, in which it is spread in layers one and one-quarter inches thick, that it may rise to about one and three-quarter inches thick, while baking.

2378—LADY’S-FINGER BISCUIT PASTE

Stir one lb. of sugar and sixteen egg-yolks in a basin until the preparation has whitened slightly and has reached the _ribbon_ stage. Now add a tablespoonful of orange-flower water; mix therewith twelve oz. of sifted flour, followed by sixteen egg-whites, whisked to a stiff froth. Take care to effect the mixture by raising and cutting the preparation with the spatula, that the former may be quite light.

_To Shape the Biscuits._—Put the paste, little by little, into a canvas piping-bag, fitted with a pipe of one-half inch bore. Close the bag; lay the biscuits on sheets of strong paper; sprinkle them with powdered sugar, and rid them of any superfluous sugar by holding the sheets end upwards.

Jerk a few drops of water upon the biscuits by means of a moistened brush in order to assist the beading of the sugar, and remember that a very moderate oven is the best for the effecting of this beading.

2379—SAVOY-BISCUIT PASTE

Stir one lb. of sugar and fourteen egg-yolks in a basin until the preparation reaches the _ribbon_ stage. Flavour with vanilla sugar; add six oz. of very dry, sifted flour mixed with six oz. of fecula, and finally mix therewith the fourteen egg-whites, which should be in a very stiff froth.

Carefully set the preparation in buttered and fecula-dredged moulds, filling the latter only two-thirds full, and leaving the remaining third to be covered by the rising of the paste while baking.

Bake in a regular, moderate oven.

2380—PÂTE A BISCUIT MANQUE

Stir one lb. of sugar with eighteen egg-yolks in a basin until the preparation is white and light. Add three tablespoonfuls of rum, thirteen oz. of sifted flour, and ten oz. of melted butter, carefully poured away. Mix, raising it with the spatula in so doing.

Set the preparation in special buttered and dredged moulds, filling the latter only two-thirds full with it. Bake in a moderate oven.

2381—PUNCH BISCUIT PASTE

Stir one lb. of sugar, twelve egg-yolks, and three eggs in a basin, until the whole becomes frothy. Aromatise with a bare tablespoonful of orange sugar, the same amount of lemon sugar, and three tablespoonfuls of best rum, and add twelve oz. of sifted flour, ten oz. of melted butter, and the whites of eight eggs whisked to a stiff froth. Mix with the usual precautions, that the paste may not be heavy.

Bake the preparation in buttered moulds, in cases or in rings, according to the purpose it is intended for. Use a moderate oven.

2382—ORDINARY MERINGUE

Whisk the whites of eight eggs until they are as stiff as it is possible to make them. Sprinkle them with one lb. of powdered sugar, and mix them with the latter carefully, that they may retain all their lightness.

2383—MERINGUE A L’ITALIENNE

Cook one lb. of sugar to the _large-ball_ stage, and meanwhile whisk the whites of eight eggs to a stiff froth, so as to have them ready simultaneously with the sugar.

Pour the cooked sugar into the egg-whites, slowly and without a pause, and mix up briskly with the whisk.

2384—MERINGUE A L’ITALIENNE (another recipe)

Mix one lb. of very best powdered sugar and the whites of eight eggs in an untinned copper basin. Place the utensil on hot cinders or on the side of the stove, that the preparation may be lukewarm while in progress.

Whisk the meringue until it is sufficiently consistent to span the members of the whisk. If it is not to be used at once, transfer the paste to a small basin; cover it with a round piece of paper, and set it in the cool.

2385—ALMOND PASTE

Instead of the antiquated and difficult method of making almond pastes in the mortar, a crushing machine is now used which not only yields a much smoother paste, but also greatly simplifies the work. Almond paste, which consists of almonds, sugar, and egg-whites, in quantities varying in accordance with the purpose of the paste, is now sold ready-made. It has only to be finished with a little sugar, white of egg, and other things, subject to the use to which it is to be put.

2386—MELTING ALMOND PASTE (For Stuffing and Imitating Fruit)

Pass eight oz. of dry, skinned almonds through the crusher.

Place them in the mortar, together with the selected aromatic essence; either a tablespoonful of vanilla sugar or a small glassful of liqueur; and add to them, little by little, working the while with the pestle, one lb. of sugar cooked to the _small-crack_ stage.

With this generic recipe, the melting paste may be varied at will by an increase or decrease in the quantity of sugar.

2387—PISTACHIOS

These should belong to the pastry-cook’s stock, but, as a rule, they are only prepared just before being served. To skin them, proceed as in the case of almonds.

2388—PISTACHIO PASTE FOR INFUSION

As soon as the pistachios are skinned, washed, and dried, crush them in the mortar to a very smooth paste, which set in boiled milk, to infuse.

As the colour of pistachios is weak, it is strengthened in preparations containing them with a few drops of vegetable green, while its aroma is thrown into relief with a trifle of vanilla.

2389—MELTING PISTACHIO PASTE

Put seven oz. of pistachios and two oz. of almonds through the crusher; both should have been just skinned. Put the paste into the mortar; add to it two tablespoonfuls of syrup, strongly flavoured with vanilla, followed by eight oz. of sugar, cooked to the _small-crack_ stage, and added to the paste little by little.

Transfer the paste to a marble slab, and finish it by combining three tablespoonfuls of icing sugar with it.