TO MAKE OMELETS

To make an omelet, beat the yolks lightly (twelve beats is said to be the magic number), as too much beating makes them thin and destroys the appearance of the omelet, then add the milk, the salt, pepper, and flour if any is used, and lastly the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Have the skillet as hot as it can be without scorching the butter ; put in a table-spoon of butter and pour in the omelet, which should at once begin to bubble and rise in flakes. Slip under it a thin, broad-bladed knife, and every now and then raise it up to prevent burning. As soon as the under side is hard enough to hold together, and the eggs begin to ''set," fold over, shake the skillet so as to entirely free the omelet, carefully slide it on a hot platter, and serve at once. It should be cooked in fit>m three to five minutes. To bake an omelet, place in the frying-pan on top of stove until it begins to *' set" in the middle, then place in a rather hot oven ; when slightly browned, fold if you like, or turn a hot dish on top of the pan, upset the latter with a quick motion, and so dish the omelet with the under side uppermost. It should be baked in from five to ten minutes. Where a large quantity of eggs are used, instead of making into one large omelet, divide and make several, sending each to the table as soon as done. Three eggs make a good-sized omelet. Ham, chicken, and all kinds of meat omelets, are made by chopping the meat fine and placing between the folds before dishing. In making vegetable (asparagus, tomatoes, cauliflower, etc.) omelets, cook the vegetables as if for the table; place them in the center of the omelet just before folding.

For a plain, easily-made omelet, take three tsble-spoons milk and

£:aas. 147

a pioch of salt for eacli egg; beat the eggs lightly for three or four minutes, pour them into a hot pan in which a piece of butter the aze of a walnut has just been melted, cook three or four minutes, fold over and serve at once. Some scald a little parsley, pour off the water, chop it, and mix with the omelet just before pouring into the pan. Old cheese, grated and added to a plain omelet, is a &yorite dish. To make a bread omelet, remove all crust from a large slice of light, white bread, moisten with sweet milk, rub through a sieve, add to the yolks, beat very thoroughly, and season with salt and pepper to taste, adding beaten whites last.

Boiled Eggs.

Put them on in cold water, and when it has boiled, the eggs will

be done, the whites being soft and digestible, as they are not when

put on in boiling water.

Baked Eggs.

Break eight eggs into a well-buttered dish, put in pepper and Bah, bits of butter, and three table-spoons cream ; set in oven and bake about twenty minutes ; serve very hot.

Birds' Nest.

Boil eggs hard, remove shells, surround with force-meat ; fry or

bake them till nicely browned, cut in halves, and place in the dish

with gravy.

Curried Eggs.

Slice two onions and fry in butter, add a table-spoon curry-powder and one pint good broth or stock, stew till onions are quite tender, add a cup of cream thickened with arrowroot or rice flour, simmer a few moments, then add eight or ten hard-boiled eggs, cut in slices, and beat them well, but do not boil. — Mrs. E. L. Fay^ Washington

ESCALOPED EgG3.

Moisten bread-crumbs with milk or meat broth; place a layer ot this in a well-buttered dish ; slice some hard-boiled eggs, and dip each slice in a thick-drawn butter sauce to which a well-beaten egg bas been added ; put a layer of them upon the crumbs, then a slight layer of minced ham, veal or chicken, then bread, etc., fin-

ishing with dry, sifted bread-crumbs ; bake until M^ell heated ; or, mix equal parts minced ham and fine bread-crumbs, season with salt, pepper and melted . butter, adding milk to moisten till quite soft ; half fill buttered gem-pans or small patty-pans with this mix- ture, and break an egg carefully upon the top of each, dust with salt and pepper, sprinkle finely powdered crackers over all, set in the oven and bake eight minutes ; serve immediately.

Frizzled Ham and Egos.

Take bits of either boiled or iried ham, chop fine, and place in

skillet prepared with butter or beef drippings ; take four to six well*

beaten eggs, pour over han), and when heated through, season well

with pepper and salt ; stir together, cook until done brown, and turn

over without stirring.

Puff Omelet.

Stir into the yolks of six eggs, and the whites of three beaten very light, one table-spoon of flour mixed into a tea-cup of cream or milk, with salt and pepper to taste ; melt a table-spoon butter in a pan, pour in the mixture and set the pan into a hot oven; when it thickens, pour over it the remaining whites of eggs weU beaten, return it to the oven and let it bake a delicate brown. Slip off on large plate, and eat as soon as done. — Mrs. W. D. HaUf Hawtey^ Minn.

Poached Eggs.

Break and drop them one at a time in salted water, to which some add a small lump of butter; some say drop in when simmer- ing, others when boiling, not letting it boil again aftier patting in the eggs; others have water boiling, salt, then place it where it will stop boiling, drop in eggs, and let simmer gently till done. Al- ways take great care in keeping the yolk whole. To preserve the egg round, muffin rings may be placed in the water, or stir with a spoon and drop in the eddy thus made, stirring till egg is cooked. To serve them, toast squares of bread three-quarters of an inch thick, put a very little melted butter upon each slice, place on a heated platter, lay an egg on each square, and sprinkle with pepper and salt. Some put a bit of butter on each egg. Serve with Wor* eester sauce if desired. Some poach eggs in milk, serving them in

EQGS. 149

eauoe dishes with some of the milk, and seasoiuDg with pepper and salt

Pickled Egos.

Pint strong vinegar, half pint cold water, tea-spoon each of cinna^ mon, allspice, and mace ; boil the eggs till very hard and take off the shell ; put on the spices tied in a white muslin bag, in the cold water, boil, and if the water wastes away, add enough so as to leave a half pint when done; add tlie vinegar, and pour over the egg^^ put in as many eggs as the mixture will cover, and when they are used, the same will do for another lot. Or, after boiling (hard) and removing shell, place in jar of beet pickles, and the white will be- come red ; cut in two in serving.

Scrambled Egos. Li a deep earthen pie-plate, warm sweet milk, allowing two table- spoons to each egg (or less, with a large number of eggs), add a bit of butter size of a walnut, and a little salt and pepper. When nearly to boiling point drop in the eggs, broken one at a time in a saucer ; with a spoon or thin-bladed knife gently cut the ^;g8, and scrape the mixture up from the bottom of the plate as it cooks. If it begins to cook dry and fast at the bottom, move the dish back instantly, for success depends wholly on cooking gently and evenly, proportions beiog of secondary importance. Take from stove before it has quite all thickened, and continue turning it up from bottom of dish a moment longer. If served in another dish (it keeps warmer served in same) have it well heated. The mixture should jbe in large flakes of mingled white and yellow, and as delicate as baked custard. Some prefer them scrambled without the milk. — Mrs, L. S. WUlia* ton, Jamegtown, N. Y,

Stuffed Eggs.

Cut in two, hard-boiled eggs, remove yolks, chop, and mix with them chopped cold chicken, lamb, or veal (some add a little minced onion or parsley and a few soaked bread-crumbs), season, and add gravy or the uncooked yolk of an e^, form, fill in the cavities, level, gut the two halves together, roll in beaten egg and bread- emmbe, put in wire egg-basket, and dip in boiling lard; when slightly brown, serve with celery or tomato sauce-

150 EGGS.

To Keej* Egob.

Put a two inch layer of salt In bottom of stone jar, then a layev of fresh eggs, small end down; then salt, then eggs, and so on till jar is full, with a layer of salt at top; cover and put in a cool place, but not where they will freeze. This is a simple, easy, and inex- pensive way, and has been tested for years. Or, dip the eggs in melted wax, or a weak solution of gum, or in flax-seed oil, or rub over simply with lard, each of which renders the shell impervious to air, and pack away in oats or bran. For one's own use the latter is a good method, keeping the eggs perfectly, but it discolors tho shells, and renders them unfit for market

There has always existed a great diflerence of opinion as to which end down eggs shoidd be placed in packing for winter use. W. H. Todd, the well known Ohio breeder of poultry, gives what seems to be a sound reason for packmg them larger end down. He says: ** The air-chamber is in the larger end, and if that is placed down the yolk will not break through and touch the sheU, and thereby spoil. Another thing, if the air-chamber is down, the egg is not as liable to shrink away. These are two important reasons deducted from experiments, and they materially aflect the keeping of eggs."

Washington Omelet. Let one tea-cup milk come to a boil, pour it over one tea-cup bread-crumbs and let stand a few minutes. Break six eggs into a bowl ; stir (not beat) till well mixed ; then add the milk and bread ; mix ; season with salt and pepper and pour into a hot skillet, in which a large tablespoon of butter had been melted; fry slowly, cut in squares, turn, fry to ajdelicate brown, and serve at once. — Mrs, D. Buxton,

To Preserve Eggs.

Make a solution of lime in rain-water, and allow the eggs to re- main in it for several days. The lime will form a coating over the shells and in the pores. Pack the eggs thus prepared in sawdust or chopped straw.

Hah is easier of digestion but less nutritious than meats, if sal- mon is excepted, which is extremely hearty food, and should be eaten sparingly by children and those whose digestion is not strong. Fish must be fresh, the fr^her the better— those being most perfect which go straight from their native element into the hands of the cook. The white kinds are least nutritious; and the oily, such as flalmon, eels, herrings, etc., most difficult of digestion. When fish are in season, the muscles are firm and they boil white and curdy; when transparent and bluish, though sufficiently bofled, it is a sign that they are not in season or not fresh.

As soon as possible after fish are caught, remove all scales (these may be loosened by pouring on hot water), and scrape out entrails aDd every particle of blood and the white skin that lies along the backbone, being careful not to crush the fish more than is abeo- lately necessary in cleaning. Binse thoroughly in cold water, using Qoly what is necessary for perfect cleanliness, drain, wipe dry, and place on ice until ready to cook. To remove the earthy taste from fresh-water fish, sprinkle with salt, and let stand over night, or at least a few hours, before cooking; rinse off, wipe dry, and to con> pletely absorb all the moisture, place in a folded napkin a short time. Fresh-water fish should never be soaked in water except when frozen, when they may be placed in ice-cold water to thaw, and then cooked immediately. Salt fish may be soaked over night in cold water, changing water once or twice if very salt To freshen fish, always place it skin-side up, so that the salt may have free course to the bottom of pan, where it naturally setties.

Fish should always be well cooked, being both unpalatable and unwholesome when underdone. For boiling, a fish-kettle is almost indispensable, as it is very difficult to remove a large fish without breaking from an ordinary kettle. The fish-kettle is an oblong boiler, in which is suspended a perforated tin plate, with a handle at each end, on which the fish rests while boiling, and with which it is lifted out when done. From this tin it is eiisily slipped off to the platter on which it goes to the table. When no fish-kettle is at hand, wrap in a cloth, lay in a circle on a plate, and set in the kettle. When done the fish may be lifted out gently by the cloth and thus removed to the platter.

In fi-ying by dipping into hot fat or drippings (or olive oil is still better), a wire basket in which the fish is placed and lowered into the fat, is a great convenience.

One of the most essential things in serving fish, is to have every thing hot, and quickly dished, so that all may go to the table at once. Serve fresh fish with squash and green pease, salt fish with beets and carrots, salt pork and potatoes and parsnips with either.

In the East there is a great variety of fish in winter. The blue fi{<h is excellent boiled or baked with a stuffing of bread, butter and onions. 3ea-bass are boiled with egg-sauce, and gaj> nished with parsley. Salmon are baked or boiled, and smelts are cooked by dropping into boiling fat. The sheap's-head, which re- quires most cooking of all fish, is always stuffed and baked.

Nearly all the larger fresh fish are boiled, the medium-sized are baked or broiled and the small are fried. The verj' large ones are cut up and sold in pieces of convenient size. The method of cook- ing Avhich retains most nourishment is broiling, baking is next best, and boiling poorest of all. Steaming is better than boiling. Li baking or boiling place a fish as nearly as possible in the same position it occupies in the water. To retain it there, shape like the letter "S," pass a long skewer through the head, body, and tail, or tie a cord around tail, pass it through body, and tie around the head.

In cooking fish, care must be taken Tiot to use the same knives or Bpoons in the preparation of it and other food, or the latter will be tainted with the fishy flavor.

FISH. 153

In boiling fish, allow five to ten minutes to the pound, according to thickness, after putting into the boiling water. To test, pass a kuiie along a bone, and if done liie fish will separate easily. Be- move the moment it is done,' or it will become '* woolly" and in- apid. The addition of salt and vinegar to water in which fish is boiled, seasons the fish, and at the same time hardens the water, %o that it extracts less of the nutritious part of the fish. In boil- iDg fish always plunge it into boiling water, and then set where it will simmer gently until done. In case of salmon, put into tepid water instead of hot, to preserve the rich color. Garnishes for fish are parsley, sliced l)eeU«, fried smelts (for turbot), lobster coral (for boiled fish). For hints on buying fij^h, see ** Marketing."

Baked Fish. Clean, rinse, and wipe dry a white fish, or any fish weighing three or four pounds* rub the fish inside and out with salt and pepper, fill with a stuflSng made like that for poultry, but drier ; sew it up and put in a hot pan, with some drij)pings and a lump of butter, dredge with flour, and lay over the fis^h a few thin slices of salt pork or bits of butter, and bake an hour and a half, basting occa- abnally. — Jfr«. A. Wilson^ Bye, Neiv York.

Baked Shad. Open and clean the fish, cut off head (or not as preferred) cut out the backl)one from the head to within two inches of the tail, and fill with the following mixture: Soak stale bread in water, squeeze dry ; cut a large onion in pieces, fry in butter, chop fine, * add the bread, two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, and a little pars- lev or sage; heat thoroughly, and when taken from the fire, add two yolks of well-l)eaten eggs; stuff, and, when full, wjn^ the fish sev- eral times with tape, place in baking-pan, baste slightly with butter, and cover the bottom of pan with water; serve with the following eauee: Reduce the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs to a smooth paste, add two table-spoons olive-oil, half tea-spoon mustard, and pepper and vinegar to taste. — Miss H. D. M.

Baked Salmox, Trout ok Pickerei.. Clean thoroughly, wipe carefully, and lay in a dripping-pan with bot water enough to prevent scorching (a perforated tin sheet or

154 FISH.

rack fitting loosely in the pan, or several muffin-rings may be used to keep the fish from the bottom of the pan, and the fish may be made to form a circle by tying head and tail together); bake slowly, basting often with butter and water. When done have ready a cup of sweet cream into which a few spoons of hot water have been poured, stir in two table-spoons melted butter and a little chopped parsley, and heat in a vessel of boiling water ; add the gravy firom the dish and boil up once. Place the fish in a hot dish, and pour over the sauce. — Mrs. Uieo. Brcnvn, Cape Oirardeau, Mo,

GoDFiBH A -La Mode.

TeaKSup codfish picked up fine, two cups mashed potatoes, one pint cream or milk, two eggs well beaten, half tea-cup butter, salt and pepper ; mix well, bake in baking-dish from twenty to twenty- five minutes. — Mrs. E. L. Fay^ New York (Xty.

Boiled Fish.

To boll a fish, fill with a rich dressing of rolled crackers seasoned with butter, pepper, salt and sage, wrap it in a well-floured cloth, tie closely with twine or sew, and place in well-salted boiling water. Place where it will simmer from eight to ten minutes to the pound, according to size and thickness of fish. — Mrs. Henry C. Farrar, Cleveland^ Tenn.

BoDLED Codfish.

Soak over night, put in a pan of cold water, and simmer two or three hours. Serve with drawn butter, with hard-boiled eggs sliced on it Codfish is also exceUent broiled. After soaking sufficiently, grease the bars of the gridiron, broil, and serve with bits of butter dropped over i^ This is a nice relish for tea. — Mrs. Lewis Brown.

Boiled Fresh Cod.

Put the fish in fish-kettle (or tie up in cloth) in boiling water with some salt and scraped horse-radish, let simmer till done, place a folded napkin on a dish, turn fish upon it, and serve with drawii butter, oyster or egg-sauce. When cold, chop fine, pour over it drawn butter or egg-sauce, and add pepper to taste, warm thor- oughly, stirring to prevent burning, make up m rolls or any other form, and brown before the fire.

Boiled Salt Mackerel. After freshening wrap in a cloth and simmer for fifteen minutes : tt will be almost done as soon as the water reaches the boiling point; remove, lay on it two hard-boiled eggs sliced, pour over it drawn butter, and trim witb parsley leaves. Boiling salt-fish hardens it.

xX)iL£D White Fish.

Dress the fish nicely, and cover in fish-kettle with boiling water seasoned well with salt; remove the scum as it rises, and simi^er, allowing frt>m eight to ten minutes time to every pound; when abput half done, add a little vinegar or lemon juice, take out, drain, a^ dish carefully, pouring over it drawn butter ; or garnish with spri af parsley, and serve with egg-sauce. — Mr». M. SmUhy PUtdmrgh,

Broiled White Fish.

Clean, split down the back, and let stand in salted water for leveral hours ; wipe dry, and place on a well-greased gridiron over hot coals, sprinkling with salt and pepper. Put flesh side down at first, and when nicely browned, turn carefully on the other. Cook for twenty or thirty minutes, or until nicely browned on both sides. *-ifr«. H. Cokoell, Oiicago, lU.

Brook Trout.

Wash and drain in a colander a few minutes, split nearly to the

tail, flour nicely, salt, and put in pan, which should be hot but not

burning ; throw in a little salt to prevent sticking, and do not turn

until brown enough for the table. Trout are nice fried with slices

of salt pork.

Codfish Balls.

Soak codfish cut in pieces about an hour in lukewarm water, remove skin and bones, pick to small pieces, and return to stove* in cold water. As soon as it begins to boil, change ^e water, and bring to a boil again. Have ready potatoes boiled tender, well mashed, and seasoned with butter. Mix thoroughly with the pota- toes half the quantity of codfish while both are still hot, form into flat, thick cakes or round balls, fry in hot lard or drippings, or dip in hot fat, like doughnuts. The addition of a beaten eg'g before niaking into balls renders them lighter. Cold potatoes may be used, by reheating, adding a little cream and butter, and mixing while hot— Jfrj. /. H, Shearer,

156 FISH.

CAimED Salmon. The California canned salmon is nice served cold with any of the fishnsauoes. For a breakftuit dish, it may be heated, seasoneii with salt and pepper, and served on slices of toast, with milk thickened with flour and butter poured over it.

Fish Chowder. The best fish for chowder are haddock and striped bass, although any kind of fresh fish may be used. Cut in pieces over an inch thick and two inches square ; place eight good-sized slices of salt pork in the bottom of an iron pot and fry till crisp ; remove the pork, leaving the fat, chop fine, put in the pot a layer of fish, a layer of split crackers, and some of the chopped pork with black and red pepper and chopped onions, then another layer of fish, another of crackers and seasoning, and so on. Cover with water, and stew slowly till the fish is perfectly done ; remove from the pot, put in dish in which you serve it and keep hot, thicken the gravy with rolled cracker or flour, boil it up once and pour over the chowder. Some add a little catsup, port wine and lemon juice to the gravy / just before taking up, but I think it nicer without them. — Mrs,

Woodworthy Springfield,

Fried Fish. Clean thoroughly, cut off* the head, and, if large, cut out the backbone, and slice the body crosswise into five or six pieces ; dip in Indian meal or wheat flour, or in a beaten egg, and then in bread crumbs (trout and perch should never be dipped in meal), put into a thick-bottomed skillet, skin side uppermost, with hot lard or drip- pings (never in butter, as it tiikes out the sweetness and gives a bad color), fry slowly, and turn when a light brown. The roe and the backbone, if previously removed, may be cut up and fried with the other pieces. A better way is to dredge the pieces in the flour, brush with beaten egg, roll in bread-crumbs, and fry in hot lard or drippings enough to completely cover them. If the fat is very hot^ the fish will not absorb it, and will be delicately cooked. When brown on one side, turn over in the fat and brown the other, and when done let them drain. Slices of large fish may be cooked ua the same way. Serve with toinatoe sauce or slices of lemon.

fish: 157

B^ATY^s Codfish. Soak pieces of codfish several hours in cold water, or wash thor- oaghly, heat in oven and pick fine, aad place in skillet with cold water ; boil a few minutes, pour off water and add firesh, boil again Qf not very salt the second boiling is not necessary), and drain ofiP as before; then add plenty of sweet milk, a good-sized piece of but- ter, and a thickening made of a little flour (or corn starch) mixed with oold milk until smooth like cream. Stir well, and just before taking from the fire drop in an egg, stir very briskly, and serve, — Mn. Siden M, Stevenson,

Baked Herrino. 8oak salt herring over night, roll in floul* and butter, and place in a dripping-pan with a very little water over them ; season with pepper. — Mrs. E. J, Starr.

Potted Fresh Fish. Let the fish lie in salt water for several hours ; then for five pounds fish take three ounces salt, two of ground black pepper, two of cin- namon, one of allspice, and a half ounce cloves ; cut fish in slices, and place in the jar in which it is to be cooked, first a layer offish, then the spices, flour and bits of butter sprinkled on, repeating till done. Fill the jar with equal parts vinegar and water, cover closely with a cloth well floured on top so that no steam can escape, and bake six hours. Let it remain in jar until cold, cut in slices, and flerve for tea. — Mrs. L. Brown.

Place in pan with heads together, and fill spaces with smaller fish ;

when ready to turn, put a plate over, drain off fat, invert pan, and

the fish will be left unbroken on the plate. Put the lard back in

the pan, and when hotj slip back the fish, and when the other side is

brown, drain, turn on plate as before, and slide them on the platter

to go to the table. This improves the appearance, if not the flavor.

The heads should be left on, and the shape preserved as ftilly as

Steamed Fish.

Place tail of fish in its mouth and secure it, lay on a plate, pour

over it a half pint of vinegar, seasoned with pepper and salt; let

158 FISH.

stand an hour in the refrigerator, pour off the vinegar, and put ia a steamer ovier boiling water ; steam twenty minutes, or longer i£ the fish Is very large (when done the meat easily parts from the bone) ; drain well, and serve on a napkin garnished with curled parsley. Serve drawn butter in a boat. — Mrs. E. 8. Miller-

Stewed Fish.

Cut a fish across in slices an inch and a half thick, and sprinkle with salt; boil two sliced onions until done, pour off water, seasoa with pepper, add two tea-cups hot water and a little parsley, and in this simmer the fish until thoroughly done. Serve hot Good method for any iresh-water fish.

Take a white fish, steam till tender, take out bones, and sprinkle with pepper and salt. For dressing, heat a pint of milk, and thicken with a quarter pound of flour ; when cool, add two eggs and a quarter pound of butter, and season with onion and parsley (very little of each) ; put in the baking-dish a layer of fish, then a layer of saude, till full, cover the top with bread-crumbs, and bake half an hour.— Mn, Robert A. lAggett^ Detroit^

To Fry Eels.

Skin them, wash well, iseason with pepper and salt, roll each

piece in fine Indian meal, fry in boUing lard ; or egg them, and roll

in cracker-crumbs and fry. For sauce, use melted butter sharpeced

with lemon-juice.

To Pickle Book.

Cook a rock-fish (cut in pieces) in water enough to cover. Put in a handful of salt, a litUe white pepper, one table-spoon of all- spice, a few cloves and mace. When fish is near done, add a quart of vinegar. In putting away, cover with liquor. — Mrs, J". 8. W.

Tickled Salmon.

Soak salmon twenty-four hours, changing water several times. Put it in boiling water with a little vinegar ; when done and cold, boil your vinegar with spice and pour over fish.- -Mrs. A, P., Vvr- ginia.

The arrangement of fresh fruits for the table affords play for the most cultivated taste and not a little real inventive genius. Melons, oranges, and indeed all kind of fruits, are appropriate breakfast dishes; and a raised oenter-piece of mixed fruits furnishes a delicious dessert, and is an indispensable ornament to an elegant dinner-table. Mek>cs should be kept on ice, so as to be thoroughly chilled when served. Clip the ends of water-melons, cut them across in halves, set up on the clipped ends on a platter, and serve the pulp only, removing it with a spoon ; or, cut across in slices, and serve with rind. Nutmeg melons should be set on the blossom end, and cut in KvenJ equal pieces from the stem downward, leaving each alternate pieoe still attached ; the others may then be loosened, and the seeds removed, when the melon is ready to servo- Fruit should be cai^- Ailly selected. Havana and Florida oranges are the best, but do not l^eep well, and on the whole, the Messina are preferable. A rough yeflow skin covers the sweetest oranges, the smooth being more juicy Hnd acid ; a greenish tinge indicates that they were picked unripe. The Messina lemons, ** November cut," are the best, and come into market in the spring. Freestone peaches with yellow meat are the bmdsomest, but not always the sweetest. California pears take the lead for flavor, the Bartlett being the best. The best winter pear is the " Winter Nellis." The " Pound " pear is the largest, but is good only for cooking. Fine-grained pears are best for eating. A PTramid of grapes made up of Malagas, Dela wares, and Concords, makes a showy center-piece and a delicious dessert. The Malaga leads all foreign grapes, and comes packed in cork-dust,

160 , FRUITS.

good condition. Of native grapes, the Delaware keeps longest. la pine-apples the "Strawberry" is best, while the "Sugar-Loaf ranks next, but tliey are so perishable that to keep even for a few days they must be cooked. When served fresh they should be cut in small squares and sprinkled with sugar. Buy cocoa-nuts cautiously in summer, heat being likely to sour th^ milk. In almonds, the Princess is the best variety to buy in the shell ; of the shelled, the " Jordan " is the finest, though the " Sicily " is good. For cake or CDnfecti(mery , the shelled are most economical. In raisins, the * * Seed- less "rank first for puddings and fine cakes, but the "Valencia* are cheaper, and more commonly used; for table use, loose "Mus- catels" and layer raisins (of which the "London Layer" is the choicest brand) take the preference. In melons, every section has its favorite varieties, any of which make a wholesome and luscious dessert dish. Sliced fruits or berries are more attractive and pala- table sprinkled with sugar about an hour before serving, and then with pounded ice just before sending to the table. An apple-corer, a cheap tin tube, made by any tinner, is indispensable in preparing apples for cooking. They are made in two sizes, one for crab-apples and the other for larger varieties.

If the market is depended upon select the freshest berries; and sometimes it will be found that the largest are not the sweetest. If clean, and not gritty, do not wash them, but pick over carefully, place first a layer of berries then sprinkle sugar, and so on; set away in a cool place, and just before serving sprinkle with pounded ice. If they must be washed, take a dish of cold, soft water, pom a few in, and with the hand press them down a few times, until they look clean, then hull them. Repeat the process till all are hulled, sugar and prepare as above. Never drain in a colander. The French serve large fine strawberries without being hulled. Pulver- ized sugar is passed, the strawberry is taken by the hull with the thumb and finger, dipped into the sugar, and eaten. When berries are left, scald for a few minutes ; too much cookmg spoils the flavor. Some think many of the sour berries are improved by digkUy cook- ing them with a little sugar before serving. If a part of the berries are badly bruised, gritty, etc. (but not sour or bitter), scald, and drain them through a fine sieve without pressing them. Sweeten

FRUITS, 161

tihe Jnioe and serve as a dressbg for puddings, short-cakes, etc., oi can for winter use.

Ambbobia, or Fruit Salad.

Six sweet oranges peeled and sliced (seeds and as much of the core as poesible taken out), one pine-apple peeled and sliced (the canned is equally good), and one large cocoaruut grated; alter> nate the layers of orange and pine-apple with grated cocoa-nut, and sprinkle pulverized sugar over each layer. Or, use six oranges, six lemons, ajod two cocoa-nuts, or only oranges and cocoa-nuts, pre- pared as above. Other fruit salads can be similarly made.

Apple Compote. Pare the apples, cut the core out, leaving them whole. Make a syrup, allowing three-fourths pound of sugar to a pound of fruit; when it comes to a boil put in the firuit and let cook until clear but remains whole. Remove the fruit to a glass bowl, and dissolve one- third of a box of gelatine in a half tea-cup of hot water, and stir briskly into the syrup, first taking off the fire. Then strain it over the apples, and set in a cool place to cool. When cold heap whipped cream over it. Some add sliced lemons to the syrup, and serve with a slice of the lemon on each apple. — Mrs, A. H, Bhea, NoA'

vWSf Tenn.

Apple Sauce.

Pare, core and cut in quarters apples that do not cut to pieces

easily, and put on to stew in cold water with plenty of sugar.

Cover close and stew an hour or more. The addition of the sugar

at first preserves the pieces whole. If they are preferred finely

mashed, add sugar after they are done.

Baked Apples.

Cut out the blossoms and stems of tart appies, in the stem end

fxit some sugar ; bake till soft ; serve either warm or cold. Sweet

apples require a longer time for baking than sour, and are better

for adding a little water in pan when placed to bake. They require

several hours, and when done are of a rich, dark brown color. If

taken out too soon they are insipid. For an extra nice dish, pare

and core tart apples, place in pan, put butter and sugar in cavity, 11

162 FRUITS.

and sprinkle cinnamon over them, and serve warm with cream or milk. Or, pare and quarter tart apples, put a layer in earthen bak- ing-dish, add lumps of butter, and sprinkle with cinnamon, then a layer of apples, etc., till dish is full; bake till soft. Or, quarter and core sour apples without paring, put in baking-dish, sprinkle with sugar and bits of butter, add a little water, and bake until tender. The proportion of sugar is a gill, and butter half-size of i^n egg, to three pints of apples, and a gill and a half of water.

Ig£d Apples. Pare and core one dozen large apples, fill with sugar and a little butter and nutmeg; bake until nearly done, let cool, and remove to another plate, if it can be done without breaking them (if not, pouf ofT the juice). Ice tops and sides with caking-ice, and brown ligkUy; serve with cream. — Mrs. R. C. Canon, Harrisburg.

Fried Apples. Quarter and core apples without paring; prepare firying-pan by heating it and putting in beef-drippings, lay the apples in the pan, skin side down, sprinkle with a little brown sugar, and when nearly done, turn and brown thoroughly. Or, cut in slices across the core, and fry like pancakes, turnmg when brown; serve with granulated sugar sprinkled over them.

Black Caps. Pare and core tart apples with apple-corer, fill the center with sugar, stick four cloves in the top of each, and bake in deep pie- plates, with a littie water.

Fried Bananas. Peel and slice lengthwise, fry in butter, sprinkle with sugar, and aerve. Thus prepared they make a nice dessert The bananas

must be ripe.

Iced Currants.

Wash and drain dry, large bunches of ripe currants, dip into beaten whites of eggs, put on sieve so they will not touch each other, sift powdered sugar thickly over them, and put in a warm place till dry. Cherries and grapes may be prepared in the same way.

Gooseberry Fool.

Stew gooseberries until soft, add sugar, and press through a co- lander (earthen is best), then make a boiled custard, or sweeteD

FRUITS 168

enough rich cream (about one gill to each quart)^ and stir carefidly into the gooeeberries just before sending to table. — Mrs. L. 8. W.

Ohanqes in Jelly. Boil the smallestrsized oranges in water until a straw will easily penetrate them, clarify half a pound of sugar for each pound of fiiiit, cut in halves or quarters, and put them to the syrup, set over a slow fire until the fruit is clear; then stir into it an ounce or more of dissolved isinglass, and let it boil for a short time longer. Be- Fore taking it up try the jelly, and if it is not thick enough add more isinglass, first taking out the oranges into a deep glass dish, and then straining the jelly over them. Lemons may be prepared

m the same manner.

Orange Pyramid.

Gut the peel in six or eight equal pieces, making the incisions from the stem downward ; peel each piece down about half way, and bend it sharply to the right, leaving the peeled orange appar- ently in a cup, from which it is removed without much difficulty. Pile the oranges so prepared in a pyramid on a high fruitrdish, and you have an elegant center-piece.

Baked Pears. Bake washed, unpeeled pears in pan with only a tea-spoon or two of water ; sprinkle with the sugar, and serve with their own

Baked Pie-plant.

Cut in pieces about an inch long, put in baking-dish in layers

with an equal weight of sugar, cover closely and bake.

Baked Peaches. Wash peaches which are nearly or quite ripe, place in a deep dish, sprinkle with sugar, cover and bake until tender.

Stewed Pie-plant. Make a rich syrup by adding sugar to water in which long strips of orange peel have been boiled until tender, lay into it a single layer of pieces of pie-plant three inches long, and stew gently until clear. When done remove and cook another layer. This makes a handsome dessert-dish, ornamented with puff-paste cut in fimcifu) •hapra. Use one orange to two and a half pounds pie-plant

164 FRUITS,

Peach Pyramid.

Cut a dozen peaches in halves, peel and take out stones, crack half the seeds, and blanch the kernels ; make a clear boiling syrup of one pound of white sugar, and into it put the peaches and ker- nels ; boil very gently for ten minutes, take out half the peaches, boil the rest for ten minutes longer, and take out all the peaches and kernels ; mix with the syrup left in the kettle the strained juice of three lemons, and an oimce of isinglass dissolved in a little water and strained ; boil up once, fill a mold half full of this syrup or jelly, let stand until ''set/' add part of the peaches and a little more jelly, and when this is '' set," add the rest of the peaches, and fill up the mold with jelly. This makes an elegant ornament. — ifi88 E. Orissa DcHheaTy OincinnaU.

Frozen Peaches. Pare and divide large, fresh, ripe and juicy peaches, sprinkle over them granulated sugar, freeze them like ice-cream for an hour; remove them just before serving, and sprinkle with a little more sugar. Canned peaches and all kinds of berries may be prepared in the same way. — Mrs. A. O. Wilcox,

To Keep Pine-apples. Pare and cut out the eyes of a ripe pine-apple, strip all the pulp from the core with a silver fork ; to a pint of this add a pound of granulated sugar, stir occasionally until sugar is dissolved, put in glass fruit-cans, and turn down the covers as closely as possible. This will keep a long time.

Baked Quinces. Wash and core ripe quinces, fill with sugar, and bake in bakings dish with a little water.

Compote op Pears.

Pare and quarter eight nice pears, and put in a porcelain sauo^ pan with water enough to cook ; put on lid, and cook fruit until tender, then remove to a platter ; make a syrup of a pound of sugar and a pint of pear-water ; add juice of two lemons and the grated rind of one, and put in the pears ; cook them for a few min- utes in this syrup, then remove to the dish in which they are to bft

FRUITS. 166

molded. Soak an ounce of gelatine for an hour or two in enough Mrater to cover it, and stir it into the hot syrup ; let boil up once and turn it over fruit through a strainer. The mold should be dipped in cold water before putting in firuit. When cold, turn jelly into a dish and serve with whipped cream around the base^ or pour sweet cream over it in saucers.

Mock Strawberries. Cut ripe peaches and choice well-flavored apples, in proportion of three peaches to one apple, into quarters about the size of a strawberry, place in alternate layers, sprinkle the top thickly with sugar, and add pounded ice; let stand about two hours, mix peaches and apples thoroughly, let stand an hour longer, and serve. — 1&S& C. B,, Newburyportf Mass.

Oranged Strawberries. Place a layer of strawberries in a deep dish ; cover the same thickly with pulverized sugar ; then a layer of berries, and so on, until all are used. Pour over them orange juice, in the proportion of three oranges to a quart of berries. Let stand for an hour, and just before serving sprinkle with pounded ice. Some use claret, grape or currant wine instead of orange juice.

Strawberries with Whipped Cream. Prepare in layers as above, cover with one pint of cream, whitee of three eggs and a tea-cup of powdered sugar, whipped together and flavored with strawberry juice.

Snow Flakes. Grate a large cocoa-nut into a glass dish, and serve with cream, preserves, jeUies or jams.

Peach Meringue. Put on to boil a quart of milk, omitting half a cup with which to moisten two table-spoons of com starch ; when the milk boils, add the moistened com starch ; stir constantly till thick, then re- move from the fire ; add one table-spoon butter, and allow the mix- ture to cool ; then beat in the yolks of three eggs till the mixture seems light and creamy ; add half a cup of powdered sugar. Cover the bottom of a well-buttered baking-dish with two or three layers

166 FRUITS. *

of rich, juicy peaches, pared, halved and stoned; sprinkle over three table-spoons powdered sugar; pour over them the custard carefully, and bake twenty minutes, then spread with the light- beaten whites, well sweetened, and return to the oven till a light brcwn. To l)e eaten warm with a rich sauce, or cold with sweet- ened rream.

Peach Custard.

Equal parts rich sliced peaches, green com pulp and water. Sweeten to <he taste, and bake twenty minutes.

Raspberry Float.

Crush a pint of very ripe red raspberries with a gill of sugar; beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth and add gradually a gill of powdered sugar ; press the raspberries through a fine strainer to avoid the seeds, and by degrees beat in the juice with the egg and sugar until so stiif fhat it stands in peaks.

Flortoa Grape Fruit.

The fruit stores display a new clear-skinned lemon-colored firuity about three times as large as an orange, and bearing a general resemblance to that fruit Its flavor is sub-acid, but its juicy pulp is inclosed in a tough white membrane of intensely bitter taste ; when this membrane is removed, the fruit is delicious. To prepare it for the table, cut the skin in sections and peel it off; separate the sections as you would those of an orange, and holding each one by the ends, break it open from the center, disclosing the pulp; tear this out of the bitter white membrane, which covers the sections^ carefnlly removing every part of it; k^ep the pulp as unbroken as possible, and put it into a deep dish with a plentiful sprinkling of fine sugar. Let it stand three or four hours, or over night, and tiieu use the fruit. It is refreshing and wholesome^ especially for a bilious temperament.

Fig Sauce.

Figs are very fine for dessert, stewed slowly until soft. Season with two ounces loaf-sugar to a pound of fruit; cook two hours; add a gla"53 port or other wine, also lemon-juice if liked. Can be seasoned witli a few bitter almonds or orange-peel. — A Georgia hovsekeeper.

Of game birds the woodcock outranks all in delicate tendemeat «nd sweet flavor. The thigh is especially deemed a choice tidbit. The leg is the finest part of the ^ snipe, but generally the breast is the most juicy and nutritious part of birds.

White-meated game should be cooked to well-done ; dark-meated game rare. The flesh of wild animals is harder and more solid, and has a less proportion of fat and juices to the lean, and is there- fore less easy of mastication when eaten within a day, and more nntritiouB, and the flavor more concentrated. Their decided flavor recommends them to invalids or others who are satiated with ordi- oary food. Keeping game renders it more tender, and brings out its flavor. When birds have become tainted, pick clean as soon as pOBBible and immerse in new milk for twenty-four hours, when they will be quite sweet and fit for cooking.

Birds should be carefully dry-picked (removing all feathers that oome off easily), plunged in n pan of boiling water and skinned, drawn, wiped clean, and all shot removed, Grame should not be washed, unless absolutelv necessarv for cleanliness. With care in dressing, wiping will render them perfectly clean. If necessary to wash, do it quickly and use as little water as possible. The more plainly all kinds of game are cooked, the better they retain their fine flavor. They require a brisker fire than poultry, but take less time to cook. Their color, when done, should be a fine yellowish brown. Serve on toast.

Broiling is a favorite method of cooking game, and all birds are exceedingly nice roasted. To broil, split down the back, open and

168 . OAMR

flatten the breast by oovering with a doth and pounding, ^euson with pepper, and lay the inside first upon the gridiron ; turn as soon as browned, and when almost done take off, place on a pla^ ter, sprinkle with salt, and return to the gridiron.. When done, place in a hot dish, butter both sides well, and serve at once. The time required is usually about twenty minutes.

To roast, season with salt and pepper, place a lump of butter inside, truss, skewer, and place in oven. The flavor is best pre* served without stuffing, but a plain bread-dressing, with a piece of salt pork or ham skewered on the breast, is very nice. A delicate way of dressing is to place an oyster dipped in the well-beaten yolk of an egg or in melted butter, and then rolled in bread crumbs, in- side each bird. Allow thirty minutes to roast or longer if stufl^ Wild ducks, pheasants and grouse are always best roasted.

To lard game, cut fat salt pork into thin, narrow strips, thread a larding-needle with one of the strips, run the needle under the skin and a little of the flesh of the bird, and draw the pork half way through, so that the ends of the strips exposed will be of equal length. The strips should be about one inch apart The larding interferes with the natural flavor of the bird, hut renders it more juicy. Many prefer tying a piece of bacon on the breast instead.

Pigeons should be cooked a long time, as they are usually quite lean and tough, and they are better to lie in salt water half an hour, or to be parboiled in it for a few minutes. They are nice roasted or made into a pie.

If the " wild flavor" of the larger birds, such as pheasants, prairie chickens, etc., is disliked, they may be soaked over night in salt water, or two or three hours in soda and water, or parboiled with an onion or two in the water, and then cooked as desired. The :;c)arser kinds of game, such as geese, ducks, etc., may lie in salt water for several hours, or be parboiled in it with an onion inside each to absorb the rank flavor, and afterwards thoroughly rinsed in clear water, stuffed and roasted ; or pare a fresh lemon without breaking the thin, white, inside skin, put inside the game for a day or two, renewing the lemon every twelve hours. This will absorb unpleasant flavors from almost all meat and game. Some lay slices of onion over game while cooking, and remove before serving. In

GAME. 169

p»!paring txh wild ducks for invalids, it is a good plau to remove the skioy and keep a day or two before cooking. Squirrels should be carefully bkinned and laid in salt water a short time before cook* mg; if old, parboil. They are delicious broiled, and are excellent cooked in any way with thin slices of bacon. Venison, as in the days of good old Isaac, is still justly considered a " savoury dish.* The haunch, neck, shoulder and saddle should be roasted ; roast or broil the breast, and fry or broil the steaks with slices of salt pork. Venison requires more time for cooking than beefsteak. The hams are excellent pickled, smoked and dried, but they will not keep so k>ng as other smoked meats.

The garnishes for game are fresh or preserved barberries, currant jelly, sliced oranges, and apple sauce.

Broiled Pheasant or Prairie Chicken. Scald and skin, cut oif the breast and cut the re»t up in joints, being careful to remove all shot ; put in hot water all except the breast (which will be tender enough without parboiling), and boil UQtil it can be pierced with fork, take out, rub over salt, pepper, and butter, and broil with breast over brisk fire ; place a lump of batter on each piece, and set ail in the oven a few minutes. For

breakfast, serve on fried mush ; for dinner on toast with a bit of current jelly over each piece. It may be served with toast cat in pieces about two niches square, over which pour gravy made by thickening the liquor in which the birds were boiled, with a litde butter and flour rubbed together and stirred in while boiling. Squirrels may be prepared the same way. — Mrs. W, W. Woods.

Broiled Quail. Split through the back and broil over a hot fire, basting fre- quently with butter. When done place a bit of butter on each piece, and set in oven a ffew moments to brown. Serve on pieces of toast with currant jelly. Plovers are cooked in the same way. Pigeons thould be first parboiled and then broiled.

Jugged Hare. Skin, wipe with a towel dipped in boiling water, to remove the loose hairs, dry thoroughly and cut in pieces, strew with pepper and

gait) fry brown, seafion with two anchovies, a sprig of thyme, a little chopped parsley, nutmeg, mace, cloves, and grated lemon-peel. Put a layer of the p^'eces with the seasoning into a wide-mouthed jug or a jar, then a layer of bacon sliced very thin, and so on till all is used ; add a scant half pint of water, cover the jug close and put in cold water, let boil three or four hours, according to the age of the hare; take the jug out of kettle, pick out the unmelted bacon and make a gravy of a little butter and flour with a little catsup. A tea-spoon of lemon-peel will heighten the flavor. — Mrs. Louise M. Lincoln.

Quail on Toast.

Dry-pick them, singe them with paper, cut off heads, and legs at first joint, draw, split down the back, soak in salt and water for five or ten minutes, drain and dry with a doth, lard them with bacon or butter, and rub salt over them, place on broiler and turn often, dipping two or three times into melted butter ; broil about twenty minutes. Have ready as many slices of buttered toast as there are birds, and serve a bird, breast upward, on each slice. Cook squabs or any small, tender bird by this recipe.

Pabtridoe Pie.

Parboil six partridges; line a deep dish or baking-pan with a rich biscuit crust, put in partridges, one dozen oysters, one table- spoon of butter, salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste, fill up with water in which birds were parboiled, cover with paste, and bake half an hour. — Mrs. Hal Johnson, JacksonviUe, Fla,

Boasted Pabtbidges.

Clean and truss birds, put on spit or in oven to roast; baste with a little butter and hot water until a gravy is made, then baste with this ; use one tearspoon of butter to each bird. They must not be stuffed, as that destroys flavor. Boast thirty minutes. ' There is a good deal of conAision regarding the name of these delicious game birds, the quail being called a partridge in many localities. The part- ridge (ru£^ grouse) is a much larger bird than the quail, much shyer, and not often found in large coveys. Both are very delicious and always bring high prices in the markets. — Mrs, Mogor Maaon^ AvyvuAa^ Go.

GAME, 171

BoABT Haunch op Venison.

Wash in warm water and dry well with a cloth, butter a sheet of white paper and put over the fat, lay in a deep baking-dish with a very little boiling water, cover with a close-fitting lid or with a coarse paste one-half inch thick. If the latter is used, a thickness or two of coarse paper should be laid over the paste. Cook in a mod- erately hot oven for from three to four hours, according to the size of the haunch, and about twenty minutes before nt is done quicken the fire, remove the paste and paper or dish-cover, dredge the joint with flour and baste well with butter until it is nicely fi*othed and of a dolicate brown color ; garnish the knuckle-bone with a frill of white paper, and serve with a gravy made from its own dripping, having first removed the h.t Have the dishes on which the venison is served and the plates very hot Always serve with currant jelly.

Roast Goose.

The goose should not be more than eight months old, and the &tter the more tender and juicy the meat. A '* green" goose (four months old) is the choicest. Kill at least twenty-four hours before eooking ; cut the neck close to the back, beat the breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin, tie the wings and legs securely, and stuff* with the following mixture : three pints bread crumbs, six ounces butter or part butter and part salt pork, two choppea onions, one tea-spoon each of sage, black pepper and salt. Do not stuff very full, and stitch openings firmly together to keep flavor in and fat out If the goose is not fat, lard it with salt pork, or tie a slice on the breast Place in a baking-pan with a little water, and baste frequently with salt and water (some add onion and some vinegar), turning often so that the sides and back may all be nicely browned. When nearly done baste with butter and a little flour. Bake two hours, or more if old ; when done take from the pan, pour off the fet, and to the brown gravy left add the chopped giblets which have previously been stewed till tender, together with the water they were boiled in ; thicken with a little flour and butter rubbed together, bring to a boil, and serve with currant jelly. Apple sauce and onion sauce are prope? accompaniments to roast goose. — Mrs, J. jET. Shearer.

Roast Duck.

Ducks are dressed and stuffed in the same manner as above. Young ducks should roast ftom twenty-five to thirty minutes ; ftdl- grown for an hour or more with frequent basting. Some prefer tiiem underdone, served very hot, but thorough cookmg will prove more generally palatable. Serve with currant jelly, apple sauce, and green pease. If old, parboil before roasting.

Place the remains of a cold roast duck in a stew-pan with a pint of gravy and a little sage, cover closely, and let it simmer for half an hour ; add a pint of boiled green pease, stew a few minutes, remove to a dish, and pour over it the gravy and pease.

Boiled Duck. Dress and rub well inside with salt and pepper, truss and tie in shape, drawing the legs in to the body, in which put one or two sage leaves, a little finely-chopped onion, and a little jellied stock or gravy; rub over with salt and pepper; make a paste in the propor- tion of one-half pound butter to one pound flour, in which inclose the duck, tie a cloth around all, and boil two hours or until quite tender, keeping it well covered with boiling water. Serve by pour- ing round it brown gravy made as follows : Put a lump of butter of the si2^ of an egg in a sauce-pan with a little minced onion; cook until slightly brown, then adding a small table-spoon of flour, stir well, and when quite brown add a half pint stock or water ; let cook a few minutes, strain, and add to the chopped giblets, previ- ously stewed till tender. — Mn, L, S. WUUston.

Reed Bibds.

Boasting by suspending on the little wire which accompanies the roaster, is the best method ; turn and baste firequently, or wash and peel with as thin a paring as possible large potatoes of equal size, cut a deep slice off one end of each, and scoop out a part of the po- tato ; drop a piece of butter into each bird, pepper and salt, and put it in the hollows made in the potatoes; put on as covers the pieces cut off, and clip the other end for them to stand on. Set in a bak- ing pan upright, with a Utile water to prevent burning, bake slowly, and serve in the dish in which they were baked.

Or, boil in a crust like dumplings.

Rabbits. Rabbits, which are in the beet condition in midwinter, may be fricaaseed like chicken in white or brown sauce. To make a pie, first stew till tender, and make like chicken-pie. To roast, stuff with a dressing made of bread-crumbs, chopped salt pork, thyme, onion, and pepper and salt, sew up, rub over with a little butter, or pin on it a few slices of salt pork, add a little water in the pan, and baste often. Serve with mashed potatoes and currant jelly.

Snipe. Snipe are best roasted with a piece of pork tied to the breast, or

they may be stuffed and baked. — Mrs, if. R.

SAiiMi OF Duck. Save remnants of cold duck or other game, trim meat off neatly,

set aside; place all the remains (bones, gravy, etc.) in a sauce-pan

and. cover with cold-water; bring gently to a boil ; skim, add an

onion that has been cut up and fried brown (nU burned) ; simmer

gently for about an hour, then set the sauce-pan in a cool place

long enough to allow the fat to rise and "settle on top;" skim this

off carefldly — it will be nice to fry potatoes with. Now return the

aauce-pan to the fire, and when about to boil strain off the liquid ;

set on again, add salt and skim. If the liquid looks cloudy, let it

boil up, throw in a little cold water, and the scum will rise. Now

put in the pepper and such spice as may be desired, also a bunch

of herbs tied up in a piece of muslin, or very finely powdered.

Take a large spoon of flour that h&s been baked in the oven and

kept for gravy, mix it well with a lump of butter same size, put

this and the meat all in together and stir well until it is just ready

to boil again, but see that it does not boil; cover closely and set back

where it may keep very hot without cooking. The safest plan is to

put the sauce-pan in a vessel of hot water for ten or fifteen minutes.

Fried Woodcock. Dress, wipe clean, tie the legs, skin the head and neck, turn the

beak under the wing and tie it ; tie a piece of bacon over it, and im- merse m hot &t for two or three minutes. Serve on toast.

Another fiivorite way is to split them through the back and broil, basting with butter, and serving on toast. They may also be roasted whole before the fire for fifteen or twenty minutes.