JELLIES AND JAMS

Jellies were formerly reputed nourishing, digestible, and fit food for sick and delicate persons, but modern investigation places them second to the lean part of animals and birds. When made of gela- tine, they have no nutrition, and are simply used to carry a pala- table flavor.

Always make jellies in a porcelain kettle, if possible, but brass may be used if scoured very bright and the fruit is removed imme- diately on taking from the fire. Use the best refined or granulated sugar, and do not have the fruit, especially currants and grapes, overripe.

To extract the juice, place fruit in kettle with just enough water to keep from burning, stir often, and let remain on the fire until thoroughly scalded ; or a better but rather slower method is to place it in a stone jar set within a kettle of tepid water, boil until the fiiut is well softened, stirring frequently, and then strain a small quantity at a time through a strong coarse flannel or cotton bag wrung out of hot water, after which let it drain, and squeeze it with the hands as it cools, emptying the bag and rinsing it off* each time it is used. The larger fruits, such as apples and quinces, should be cut in pieces, cores removed if at all defective, water added to just cover them, boiled gently until tender, turned into bag and placed to drain for three or four hours, or over night. Make not over two or three pints of jelly at a time, as larger quantities require longer boiling. As a general rule allow equal measures juice and sugar. Boil juice* rapidly ten minutes from the first moment of boiling, skim, add sugar, and boil ten minutes longer; or spread the sugar

182 JELLIES AND JAMS.

in a large dripping-pan, set in the oven, stir often to prevent burn- ing, boil the juice just twenty minutes, add the hot sugar, let boil up once, and pour into the jelly-glasses immediately, as a thin skin forms over the surface which keeps out the air ; cover with brandied tissue paper, cut to fit glass closely, cool quickly and set in a dry, cool, dark place. Jelly should be examined toward the end of sum- mer, and if there are any signs of fermentation, reboiL Jelly needs more attention in damp, rainy seasons than in others. To test jelly, drop a little in a glass of very cold water, and if it immediately' falls to the bottom it is done ; or drop in a saucer, and set on ice or in a cool place; if it does not spread, but remains rounded, it is finished. Some strain through the bag into the glasses, but this involves waste, and if skimming is carefully done is not necessary. A little butter or lard, rubbed with a cloth on the outside of glasses or cans, will enable one to pour in the boiling fruit or liquid, the first spoon or two slowly, without breaking the glass. If jelly is not very firm, let it stand in the sun covered with bits of window^ glass or pieces of mosquito netting, for a few days. Never attempt to make jelly in damp or cloudy weather if firmness and clearness are desired. Use a wooden or silver spoon to stir, dip with earthen cup, and cook in porcelain -lined kettles. Currants and berries should 1)6 made up as soon as picked ; never let them stand over night. When ready to put away, cover with pieces of tissue or writing-paper cut to fit and pressed closely upon the jelly, and put on the lid or cover with thick paper, brushed over on the inside with the white

Apple or Blackberry Jelly. Prepare nice, tart, juicy apples as in general directions, using three quarters of a pint of sugar to a pint of juice. Prepare blackberry jelly according to general directions for berries.

Calf's- FOOT Jelly. Cut across the first joint, and through the hoof, place in a large sauce-pan, cover with cold water, and bring quickly to the boiling point; when water boils, remove them, and Avash thoroughly in cold water. When perfectly clean put into a porcelain-lined sauce- pan, add cold water in the proportion of three pints to two calfs

JELLIES AND JAMS. 183

leet> |mt Muc^-pan over fire, and when water boils, set aside to a

cooler place, where it will simmer very slowly for five hours ; strain

the liquor through a fine sieve, or a coarse towel, let it stand over

night to set, remove the fat that has risen to the top, dip a towel in

boiling water, and wash the surface, which wiU be quite firm. Now

place in a porcelain-lined sauce-pan, and melt, add juice of two

lemons, rinds of three cut into strips, one-fourth pound of cut loa^

sugar, ten cloves, and one inch of cinnamon stick. Put the whites

of three eggs, together with the shells (which must first be blanched

in boiling water), into a bowl, beat them slightly, and pour them

into the sauce-pan, continuing to use the egg-beater until the whole

boils, when the pan should be drawn aside where it will simmer

gently for ten minutes, skimming ofi* all scum as it rises. While

simmering, prepare a piece of flannel by pouring through it a little

warm water; and when the jelly has simmered ten minutes, pour

it through this bag into a bowl, and repeat the process of straining

until it is perfectly clear, when add a half gill of sherry (or brandy,

or brandy and sherry mixed in equal proportions)i stir well, pour

into molds, and place upon ice or in a cool place until jelly sets and

becomes firm enough to turn out and serve.

Currant Jelly. Do not pick from the stem, but carefully remove all leaves and imperfect fruit, place in a stone jar, and follow general directions; or place one pint currants, picked off the stem, and one pint sugar, in the kettle on the stove, scald well, skim out currants, and dry on plates; or make into jam with one-third currants and two-thirds raspberries, straining juice after sweetening, and cooking until it "jellies.'*' After currants are dried put them in stone jars and cover closely. — Mn. A, B. M, \

Crakberry Jelly. Prepare juice as in general directions, add one pound sugar to every pint, boil and skim, test by dropping a little into cold water (when it does not mingle with the water it is done), rinse glasses in cold water before pouring in the jelly to prevent sticking. The pulp may be sweetened and used for sauce. — C O. & E. W. Onme, OddweU, K J.

184 JELLIES AND JAMS.

Crab Apple Jelly.

Wash and quarter large Siberian crabs, but do not core, ooyer to the depth of an inch or two witli cold water, and cook to a mush ; pour into a coarse cotton bag or strainer, and when cool enough, press or squeeze hard, to extract all the juice. Take a piece of fine Swito muslin or crinoline, wring out of water, spread over a colander placed over a crock, and with a cup dip the juice slowly in, allowing plenty of time to run through ; repeat this pro- cess twice, rinsing out the musliu frequently. Allow the strained juice of four lemons to a peck of apples, and three quarters of a pound of sugar to each pint of juice. Boil the juice from ten to twenty minutes; while boiling sift in the sugar slowly, stirring con- stantly, and boil five minutes longer. This is generally sufficient, but it is always safer to '* try it," and ascertain whether it will "jelly. " This makes a very clear, sparkling jelly. — Mrs, Oarol

OcofteSy Bivemde^ ML

Coffee Jelly.

Half box Coxe's gelatine soaked half an hour in a half tea-cup

cold water (as little water as possible), one quart strong coffee,

made as if for the table and sweetened to taste ; add the dissolved

^latine to the hot coffee, stir well, strain into a mold rinsed with

cold water just before using, set on ice or in a very cool place, and

serve with whipped cream. Thb jelly is very pretty, formed in a

circular mold with tube in center ; when turned out fill the space

in center with whipped cream heaped up a little. — Mrs. A. Wtlson^

Bye/N. Y.

Easter Jelly.

Color calf s-foot jelly a bright yellow by steeping a small quantity of dried saffron leaves in the water. Pare lemons in long strips about the width of a straw, boil in water until tender, throw them into a rich syrup, and boil until clear. Make a blanc-mange of cream, color one-third pink with poke-berry syrup, one-third green with spinach, and leave the other white. Pour out egg?, from a hole a half inch in diameter in the large end, wash and drain the shells carefully, set them in a basin of salt to fill, and pour in the blanc- mange slowly through a funnel, and place the dish in a refrigerator for several hours. When ready to serve, select a round, shallow

JELLIES AND JAMS. 185

dish about as large as a hen's nest, form the jelly in it as a lining, scatter the strips of lemon peel over the edge like straws, remove the egg<6hells carefully from the blanc-mange, and fill the nest with them. — Mrs. C. M, Coates, PfiUadelphia.

Four-Fruit Jelly.

Take equal quantities of ripe strawberries, raspberries, currants,

and reil cherries, all should be fully ripe, and the cherries must be

stoned, taking care to preserve the juice that escapes in stoning, and

add it to the rest. Mix the fruit together, put it into a linen

bag, and squeeze it thoroughly ; when it has ceased to drip, measure

the juice, and to every pint allow a pound and two ounces of the

best loaf-sugar, in large lumps. Mix the juice and sugar together;

put them in a porcelain-lined preserving kettle, and boil for half an

hour, skimming frequently. Try the jelly by dipping out a spoon^'

fid, and holding it in the open air ; if it congeals readily it is suffi*

dently done. ThisjeUy u very fine, — Mr». E, S, MiUer.

Grape Jelly. Prepare fruit and rub through a sieve; to every pound of pulp add a pound of sugar, stir well together, boil slowly twenty minutes, then follow general directions; or, prepare the juice, boil twenty minutes, and add one pound of sugar to one pound of juice after it is reduced by boiling ; then boil ten or fifteen minutes. Or put on grapes just beginning to turn, l)oil, place in jelly-bag and let drain; to one pint juice add one pint sugar, boil twenty minutes, and just before it is done add one tearspoon dissolyed gum-arabic. — Mrs. W. M.

Lemon Jelly. Juice of six lemons, grated peel of two, two targe cups sugar, one package Coxe's gelatine soaked in two cups cold water, two glasses pale sherry or white wine, one pint boiling water ; stir lemon-juice, peel, sugacand soaked gelatine together, and cover for an hour; pour the boiling water over them ; stir until all is dissolved perfectly, add wine, strain through flannel, and pour in mold. If fruit jdelds less than a large co£fee-cup juice, add more water, so the jelly may not be tough.

Orange Jelly. Two quarts water, four ounces gelatine, nine oranges and three lemons, a pound sugar, whites of three eggs; soak gelatine in a pint

186 • JELLIES AND JAMS.

of water, boil the three pints water and sugar together, skim well, add dissolved gelatine, orange and lemon juice, and beaten whites; let oome to a boil, skim off carefully all scum, boil until it jeUies^ and pour jelly into mold. Strain, scum and add to mold*

Peach Jellt.

Crack one-third of the kernels and put them in the jar with the peaches, which should be pared, stoned and sliced. Heat in a pot of boiling water, stirring occasionally until the fruit is well broken. Strain, and to every pint of peach juice add the juice of a lemon.- Measure again, and to every pint of peach juice add a pound of sugar. Heat the sugar very hot, and add when the juice has boiled twenty minutes. Let it come to a boil and take instantly from the fire. This is very fine for jelly cake.

Quince Jellt.

Rub the quinces with a cloth until perfectly smooth, cut in small pieces, pack tight in a kettle, pour on cold water until level with the fruit, boil until very soft ; make a three-cornered flannel bag, pour in fruit and hang up to drain, occasionally pressing on the top and sides to make the juice run more freely, taking care not to press hard enough to expel the pulp. There is not much need of pressing a bag made in this shape, as the weight of the fruit in the larger part causes the juice to flow freely at the point. To a pint of juice add Sk pint of sugar and boil fifteen minutes, or until it is jelly; pour into tumblers, or bowls, and finish according to general directions. If quinces are scarce, the parings and cores of quinces with good tart apples, boiled and strained as above, make exceUent jelly, and the quinces are saved for preserves. — Mrs. M. J. W.

Transcendent Crab-apple Jelly.

Transcendents or any variety of crab-apples, may be prepared as cultivated wild plums, adding flavoring of almond, lemon, peachy pine-apple or vanilla to the jelly in the proportion of one tea-spoon to two pinUi, or more if it is wished stronger, just before it is donOr

Plum Jelly.

If plums are wild (not cultivated) put in pan and sprinkle with soda and pour hot water over them, let stand a few moments and stir through them ; take out and put on with water just to cover, or less if plums are very juicy ; boil till soft, dip out juice with a china

JELLIES AND JAMS. 187

• cap ; then Btrain the rest through small salt-bags (by the way, keep

them for jelly-bags as they are just the thing), do not squeeze them. Take pound for pound of juice and sugar, or pint for pint, and boil for eight or ten minutes. Jelly will be nicer if only one measure or a measure and a half is made at one time ; if more, boil longer ; some boil juice ten or fifteen minutes, then add sugar and boil five minutes longer. It can be tested by dropping in a saucer and placing on ice or in a cool place ; if it does not spread but remains rounded it is finished. If the plums are the cultivated wild plum, make as above without using the soda. Take the plums that are left and press through a sieve, then take pint for pint of sugar and pulp, boiling the latter half an hour and then adding sugar, boiling ten or fifteen minutes more. Half a pint sugar to a pint, makes a rich marmalade, and one-third pint to pint, boiling it longer, is nice canned, and used for pies, adding milk, eggs and sugar as for squash pies.

Plum-apple jelly may be made by preparing the juice of apples and plums as above (a nice proportion is one part plums to two parts apples ; for instance, one peck of plums to two pecks apples) ; then mixing the juice and finish without flavoring. The marma- lade is made in the same way as above. Some add a little ginger root to it. One bushel of apples and one peck of plums make forty pints of jelly, part crab-apple and part mixed, and sixteen quart glass cans of mixed marmalade. In making either kind of jelly the fruit may be squeezed and the juice strained twice through swiss or crinoline and made into jelly. The pulp can not then be used for marmalade.

Pie-plant Jelly. Wash the stalks well, cut into pieces an inch long, put them into a preserving-kettle with enough water to cover them, and boil to a soft pulp; strain through a jelly-bag. To each pint of this juice add a poand of loaf-sugar; boil again, skimming often, and when it jellies on the skimmer remove it from the fire and put into jars.

188 JELLIES AND JAMS.

In making jams, the fruit should be carefully cleaned and thar- (mghly bruised, as mashing it before cooking prevents it fix>m becom- ing hard. Boil fifteen or twenty minutes before adding the sugar, lis the flavor of the fruit is thus better preserved (usually allowing three-quarters of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit), and then boil half an hour longer. Jams require almost constant stirring, and every house-keeper should be provided with a small paddle with handle at right angles with the blade (similar to an apple-butter ** stirrer," only smaller), to be used in making jams and marmalades. Jams are made from the more juicy berries, such as blackberries, currants, raspberries, strawberries, etc.; m^irmalades from the firmei fruits, such as pine-apples, peaches and apricots. Both require th% closest attention, as the slightest degree of burning ruins the flavor. They must be boiled sufficiently, and have plenty of sugar to keep well.

To tell when any jam or marmalade is sufficiently cooked, take out some of it on a plate and let it cool. If no juice or moisture gathers about it, and it looks dry and glistening, it is done thor- oughly. Put up in glass or small stone jars, and seal or secure like canned fruits or jellies. Keep jellies and jams in a cool, dry, and dark place.

Currant Jam.

Pick from stems and wash thoroughly with the hands, put into a preserving kettle and boil fifteen or twenty minutes, stirring often, and skimming ofi* any scum that may arise ; then add sugar in the proportion of three-fourths pound sugar to one pound fruit, or, by measure, one coflfee-cup of sugar to one pint mashed fruit ; boil thirty minutes longer, stirring almost constantly. When done, pour in small jars or glasses, and either seal or secure like jelly, by first pressing paper, cut to fit the glasses, down close on the fruit, and then larger papers, brushed on the inside with white of eggs, with the edges turned down over the outside of the glass.

JELLIES AND JAMS. 189

Gooseberry Jam.

Stew the berries in a little water, press through a coarse sieve, retnm to the kettle, add three-fourths pound sugar to each pound of the pulped gooseberry ; boil three-quarters of an hour, stirring constantly ; pour in jars or bowls, and cover as directed for cur- rant jams. — Mrs. C. Meade, Tenn.

Grape or Plum Jam.

Stew in a little water, and press the fruit through a colander or coarse sieve, adding a little water to plums to get all the pulp through ; add sugar, and finish as in other jams.

Raspberry Jam.

Make by itself, or, better, combined with currants in the propor- tion of one-third currants to two-thirds raspberries ; mash the fruit well, and proceed as in currant jam.

Make blackberry jam like raspberry, except that it should not be mixed with currants.

Strawberry jam is made exactly like blackberry.

French Jam.

The addition of one pound of raisins to each gallon of currant jam converts this into very fine French jam. — Mrs. 8. C. , Parity Ky.

Fruit Jelly.

Take one box of gelatine, soak it one hour in a pint of cold water ; when well soaked pour on a pint of boiling water ; then put in a quart of any kind of fruit, strawberries, raspberries or cherries be- ing nice; add half cup sugar, one spoonful of extract of lemon; pour into a mold, find when cold eat with cream and sugar or whipped cream. It is delicious. — Ms8 L. A. C, Ky.

Wine Jelly.

One ounce Coxe's gelatine, one pound loaf sugar ; dissolve gela- tine in a pint boiling water, add sugar and a quart of white wine ; stir mixture very hard and pour in mold ; when congealed, wrap mold in a cloth dipped in warm water, turn out jelly and eat with cream. — Mn, 8. P. H,^ On,

InatteDtion to the temperature of the water and too early ap- plication of salt cause great waste in boiling meats. To make fresh meat rich and nutritious it should be placed in a kettle of bailing water (pure soft water is best), skimmed well as soon as it begins to boil again, and placed where it will slowly but constantly boil. The meat should be occasionally turned and kept well under the water, and iresh hot water supplied as it evaporates in boiling. Plunging in hot water hardens the fibrine on the outside, encasing and re- taining the rich juices — and the whole theory of correct cooking, in a nut-shell, is to retain as much as possible of the nutriment of food. No salt should be added until the meat is nearly done, as it extracts the juices of the meat if added too soon. Boil gently, as rapid boiling hardens the fibrine and renders the meat hard, tasteless, and scarcely more nutritious than leather, without really hafitening the process of cooking, every degree of heat beyond the boiling point being worse than wasted. There is a pithy saying: "The pot should only smile, not laugh." The bubbles should appear in one part of the surface of the water only, not all over it Thife differs from "simmering," as in the latter there is merely a sizzling on the side of the pan. Salt meat should be put on in cold water 80 that it may freshen in cooking. Allow twenty minutes to the pound for fresh, and thirty-five for salt meats, the time to be modi- fied, of course, by the quality of the meat. A pod of red pepper in the water will prevent the unpleasant odor of boiling from filliixg

the house. a90)

MEATS. 191

proper is almost unknown in these days of stoves and ranges — baking, a much inferior process, having taken its place. In roasting the joint is placed close to a brisk fire, turned so as to ex- pose ereiy part to the heat, and then moved back to finish in a more moderate heat The roast should be basted frequently with the drippings, and, when half cooked, with salt and water.

To roast in oven, the preparations are very simple. The fire must be bright and the oven hot. The roast will need no washing if it comes from a cleanly butcher ; wiping with a towel dampened in cold, water is all that is needed ; if washing is necessary, dash over quickly with cold water and wipe dry. If meat has been kept a little too long, wash in vinegar, wipe dry, and dust with a very Utde floor to absorb the moisture. Place in pan, on a tripod, or two or three clean bits of wood laid cross- wise of pan, to keep it out of the &t If meat is very lean, add a table-spoon or two of water ; if fat, the juices of the meat will be sufiScient, and the addition of the water renders it juiceless and tasteless. While the meat is in the oven, keep the fire hot and bright, baste several times, and when about half done turn it, always keeping the thick part of the meat in the hottest, part of the oven. Take care that every part of the roast, including the fat of the tenderloin, is cooked so that the text- ure is chang^.

If the fire has been properly made, and the roast is not large, it should not require replenishing, but, if necessary, add a little ^ei at a time, so as not to check the fire, instead of waiting until a great deal must be added to keep up the bright heat. Most persons like roast beef and mutton underdone, and less time is re- quired to cook them than for pork and veal or lamb, which must be very well done. Fifteen minutes to the pound and fifteen minutes longer is the rule for beef and mutton, and twenty minutes to the pound and twenty minutes longer for pork, veal and lamb. The directions for beef apply equally well to pork, veal, mutton and lamb. Underdone meat is cooked throughout,, so that the bright red juices follow the knife of the carver ; if it is a livid purple it is raw, and unfit for food. When done, the roast should be a rich brown, and the bottom of the pan covered with a thick ghize. Bemove the joint, sift evenly over with fine salt,iand it is

192 MEATS.

ready to serve. Never salt before or while cooking, as it draws out the juices. To prepare the gravy, pour off the fat gently, holding the pan steadily so as not to lose the gravy which underlies it; put pan on the stove, pour into it half a cup of boiling water (vary the quantity with the size of the roast ; soup of any kind b better than water if at hand), add a little salt, stir with a spoon until the particles adhering to the sides of the pan are removed and dissolved, making a rich, brown gravy (some mix flour and water, and add as thickening).

In roasting all meats, success depends upon basting frequently (by dipping the gravy from the pan, over the meat with 'a large spoon), turning often so as to prevent burning, and carefully regu- lating the heat of the oven. Allow fifteen to twenty-five minutes to the pound in roasting, according as it is to be rare or well done, taking into consideration the quality of the meat. Eoasts prepared with dressing require more time. In roasting meats many think it better not to add any water until the meat has been in the oven about half an hour, or until it begins to brown.

Broiling is the most wholesome method of cooking meats, and is most acceptable to invalids. Tough steak is made more tender by pounding or hacking with a dull knife, but some of -the juices are lost by the operation ; cutting it across in small squares with a Aarp knife on both sides is better than either. Tough meats are also improved by laying for two hours on a dish containing three or four table-spoons each of vinegar and salad oil (or butter), a little pepper, but no salt ; turn every twenty minutes. The action of the oil and vinegar softens the fibers without extracting their juices. Trim off all superfluous fat, but never wash a freshly-cut steak. Never salt or pepper steak or chops before or while cooking, but if very lean, dip in melted butter. Place the steak on a hot, well- greased gridiron, turn often so that the outside maybe seared at once ; when done, which will require from five to ten minutes, dish on a hot platter, season with salt and pepper and bits of butter, cover with, a hot platter and serve at once. A small pair of tonga are best U turn steaks, as piercing with a fork fi^ees the juices. If lat drips on the coals below, the blaze may be extinguished by sprinkling with salt, always withdrawing the gridiron to prevent the

MEATS. 193

Bteak firom acquiring a smoky flavor. Always have a brisk fire, whether you cook in a patent broiler directly over ilie fire, or on a gridiron over a bed of live coals. Broiling steak is the very last thing to be done in getting breakfast or dinner ; every other dish should be ready for the table, so that this may have the cook's un- divided attention. A bteel gridiron with slender bars is best, as the common broad, flat iron bars fry and scorch the meat, imparting & disagreeable flavor. In using the patent broilers, such as the *' American" and the later and better '* Dover,'' care must be used to keep all doors and lids of stove or range closed during the pro- cess. The dampers which shut off the draft to the chimney should be thrown open before beginning, to take the flames in that direc- tion. Never take the li J from broiler without first removing it from over the fire, as the smoke and flames rush out past the meat and smoke it

Frying is properly cooking in fat enough to cover the article, and when the fat is hot, and properly managed, the food is crisped at the surface, and does not absorb the fat. The process of cooking in just enough fat to prevent sticking has not yet been named in Eng- lish, and is eatdemg^ but is popularly known as frying, and ought to be banished from all civilized kitchens. The secret of success in fiying is what the French call the ** surprise." The fire must be hot enough to sear the surface and make it impervious to the fat, and at the same time seal up the rich juices. As soon as the meat is browned by this sudden application of heat, the pan may be moved to a cooler place on the stove, that the process may be fin- ished more slowly. For instructions as to heating the fat, see what is said under head of ** Fritters." When improperly done, frying results in an unwholesome and greasy mess, unfit for food, but with care, plenty of fat (which may be used again and again), and the right degree of heat, nothing is easier than to produce a crisp, de- licious, and healthful dish.

To thaw frozen meat, place in a warm room over night, or lay it for a few hours in cold water — the latter plan being the best. The ice which forms on the surfisu;e as it thaws is easily removed. If cooked before it is entirely thawed, it will be tough. Meat once

frozen should not be allowed to thaw until just before cooking. 13

194 MEATS.

The moBt economical way to cut a ham is to slice, for the same meal, from the large end as well as from the thickest part ; in this way a part of best and a part of the less desirable is brought on, and the waste of the meal is from the poorest, as the best is eaten first. After cutting a ham, if not to be cut from again soon, rub the cut side with corn meal ; this prevents the ham from becoming rancid, and rubs off easily when the ham is needed again.

Beef in boiling loses rather more than one-quarter ; in roasting it loses one-third ; legs of mutton lose one-fifth in boiling, and one- third in roasting, and a loin of mutton in roasting loses rather mors than a third.

Beef suet may be kept a long time in a cool place without freez- ing, or by burying it deep in the fiour barrel so as to entirely ex- clude the air.

The garnishes for meats are parsley, slices of lemon, sliced carrot, sliced beets, and currant jelly.

For hints on buying meats, see '* Marketing."

Broiled Beefsteak. Lay a thick tender steak upon a gridiron well greased with butter or beef Muet, over hot coals; when done on one side have ready the warmed platter with a little butter on it, lay the steak, without pressing it, upon the platter with the cooked side down so that the juices which have gathered may run on the platter, quickly place it again on gridiron, and cook the other side. When done to liking, put on platter again, spread lightly with butter, season with salt and pepper, and place where it will keep warm (over boiling steam is best) for a few moments, but do not let butter become oily. Serve on hot plates. Many prefer to sear on one side, turn imme« diately and sear the other, and finish cooking, turning often ; gar- nish with fried sliced potatoes, or with browned potato balls the size of a marble, piled at each end of platter. — Mrs, W, TT. Tf.

Fried Beefsteak.

When the means to broil are not at hand, the next best method

is to heat the frying pan very hot, put in steak previously hacked,

let remain a few moments, loosen with a knife and turn quickly

several times ; repeat thb, and when done transfer to a hot platter.

MEATS, 196

■alt, pepper, and put over it bits of butter; pile the steaks one on

top of another, and cover with a hot platter. This way of frying

18 both healthful and delicate. Or, heat the skillet, trim off the fat

fix>m the steak, cut in small bits and set on to frv; meanwhile

pound steak, then draw the bits of suet to one side and put in the

steak, turn quickly over several times so as to sear the outside, take

out on a hot platter previously prepared with salt and pepper,

dredge well, return to skillet, repeating the operation until the

Bteak is done; dish on a hot platter, covering with another platter,

and place where it ?dll keep hot while making the gravy. Place a

table-spoon dry flour in the skillet, being sure to have the fat boiling

hot, stir until brown and free from lumps (the bits of suet may be

left in, drawing them tvi one side until the flour is browned), pour

in about half a pint boilhig water (milk or cream is better), stir

well, season with pepper and suit, and serve in a gravy tureen.

Spread bits of butter over steak and send to table at once. This is

more economical, but not so wholesome as broiling.

Beefsteak Smothered in Onions.

Slice the onions thin and drop in cold water: put steak in pan with a little suet. Skim out onions and add to steak, season with pepper and salt, cover tightly, and put over the fire. When the juice of the onions has dried up, and the meat has browned on one side, remove onions, turn steak, replace onions, and fry till done* being careful not to bum.

Boiled Corned Beef.

Soak over night if very salt, but if beef is young and properly corned this is not necessary; pour over it cold water enough to cover it well, after washing off* the salt. The rule for boiling meats fo twenty-five minutes to a pound, but corned beef should be placed on a part of the stove or range where it will simmer, not boil, un- interruptedly from four to six hours, according to the size of the piece. If to be served cold, some let the meat remain in the liquor until cold, and some let tough beef remain in the liquor until the next day, and bring it to the boiling point just before serving. Sim- mer a brisket or plate-piece until the bones are easily removed, fold over, forming a square or oblong piece, place sufficient. weight on

196 MEAT&

top to press the parts closely together^ and set where it will become cold. This gives a firm, solid piece to cut in slices, and is a delight- ful relish. Boil liquor down, remove the fat, season with pepper or sweet herbs, and save it to pour over finely minced scraps and pieces of beef; press the meat firmly into a mold, pour over it the liquor, and place over it a close cover with a weight upon it. When turned iroin the mold, garnish with sprigs of parsley or celery, and serve with &ncy pickles or French mustard. — Mrs, S, H. J.

Beef a La Mode. In a piece of the rump, cut deep openings with a sharp knife ; put in pieces of pork cut into dice, previously rolled in pepper, salt, cloves and nutmeg. Into an iron stew-pan lay pieces of pork, sliced onions, slices of lemon, one or two carrots and a bay-leaf; lay the meat on and put over it a piece of bread-crust as large as the hand, a half-pint wine and a little vinegar, and afterwards an equal quantity of water or broth, till the meat is half covered; cover the dish close and cook till tender. Then take it out, rub the gravy thoroughly through a sieve, skim ofi* the fiit, add some sour cream, return to the stew-pan and cook ten minutes. Instead of the cream, capers or sliced cucumber pickles can be added to the gravy if preferred, or a handful of grated ginger-bread or rye bread. The meat can also be laid for some days before in a spiced vinegar or wine pickle. — Mrs, L. S. WUlistoriy Heidelberg, Oermany,

Boiled Beef Tongue. Wash clean, put in the pot with water to cover it, a pint of salt, and a small pod of red pepper ; if the water boils away, add more so as to keep the tongue nearly covered until done ; boil until it can be pierced easily with a fork, take out, and if needed for pres- ent use, take off the skin and set away to cool ; if to be kept some days, do not peel until wanted for table. The same amount of salt will do for three tongues if the pot is large enough to hold them, always remembering to keep sufficient water in the kettle to cover all while boiling. Soak salt tongue over night, and cook in same way, omitting the salt. Or, after peeling, place the tongue in sauce* pan with one cup water, one-half cup vinegar, four table-spoop« sugar, and cook till liquor is evaporated. — M. J. W.

MEATS. 197

Baoout of Beef.

For BIX pounds of the round, take half dozen ripe tomatoes, cut op with two or three onions in a vessel with a tight cover, add half a dozen cloves, a stick of cinnamon, and a little whole black pepper; cut gashes iu the meat, and stuff them with half pound of &t salt pork, cut into square bits ; place the meat on the other ingredients, and pour over them half a cup of vinegar aud a cup of water; cover tightly, and bake in a moderate oven ; cook slowly four or five hours, and, when about half done, salt to taste. When done, take oat the meat, strain the gravy through a colander and thicken with flour. — Mrs, D. W. R,, WaahingUm City.

Roast Beef with Pudding. Bake exactly as directed for ordinary roast for the table ; then make a Yorkshire pudding, to eat like vegetables with the roost, as foUows: For every pint of milk take three eggs, three cups of flour, and a pinch of salt ; stir to a smooth batter, and pour into the drip- ping-pan under the meat, half an hour before it is done. — Mrs, C

T, Carson.

Roast Beef.

Take a rib-piece or loin-roast of seven to eight pounds. Beat it thoroughly all over, lay it in the roasting dish and baste it with melted butter. Put it inside the well-heated" oven, and baste fre- quently with its own fiit, which will make it brown and tender. If, when it is cooking fast, the gravy is growing too brown, turn a glass of Grerman cooking wine into the bottom of the pan, and repeat this as often as the gravy cooks away. The roast needs about two hours time to be done, and must be brown outside but inside still a little red. Season with salt and pepper. Squeeze a little lemon juice over it, and also turn the gravy upon it, after skimming ofi^ all fat. — Mrs. L. S. Willis^, Heidelberg , Germany.

A Brown Stew. Put on stove a rather thick piece of beef with little bone and some fet; four hours before needed, pour on just boUing water enough to cover, cover with a close-fitting lid, boil gently, and as the water boils away add only just enough from time to time to keep from burning, so that when the meat is tender, the water may

198 MEATS.

all be boiled away, as the fat will allow the meat to brown without burning ; turn occasionally, brown evenly over a slow fire, and make a gravy, by stirring flour and water together and adding to the drippings ; season with salt an hour before it is done. — Mrs. Geba Hull

Stewed Beef.

Take a piece of the rump, pound it till tender, lay in an iron ver^sel previously lined with slices of pork and onions, with a few pepper-corns, dredge it with salt, and baste with melted butter. Cover close, over a good heat, and when it has fried a nice brown, add one pint German cooking wine and as much more good soup stock, and stew it till soft. Before serving, take out the meat, skim off the fat, add a table-8i)Oon of flour mixed smooth with broth, add gradually still more broth, strain it through a sieve and turn over the previously dished meat. The meat can be laid for some days before in vinegar, or in a spiced pickle, or be basted with either occasionally instead of lying in it.

Spiced Beef Tongue.

Rub into the tongue a mixture of half a pint of sugar, a piece of saltpeter the size of a pea, and a table-spcjon of ground cloves ; immerse it in a brine made of three-fourths pound salt to two quarts water, taking care that it is kept covered ; let lie two weeks, take out, wash well, and dry with a cloth ; roll out a thin paste made of flour and water, wrap the tongue in it, and put it in pan to bake ; bake slowly, basting well with lard and water ; when done, remove paste and skin, and serve.

Fried Liver.

Cut in thin slices and place on a platter, pour on boiling water and immediately pour it off (this seals the outside, takes away the unpleasant flavor, and makes it much more palatable) ; have ready in skillet on the stove, some hot lard or beef drippings, or both together, dredge the liver with rolled crackers or dried bread- crumbs rolled fine and nicely seasoned with pepper and salt, put in skillet, placing the tin cover on, fry slowly until both sides are dark-brown, when the liver will be thoroughly cooked. The tim6 required is about a quarter of an hour.

MEATS. 199

Larded Livek.

Lard a calf's liver with bacon or ham, season with salt and pep- per, tie a cord around the liver to keep in shape, put in a kettle with one quart of cold water, a quarter of a pound of bacon, one onion chopped fine, and one teaspoon sweet marjoram ; let simmer slowly for two hours, pour off gravy into gravy -dish, and brown liver in kettle. Serve with the ^ravy. — Mrs. E, L. Fay, Washington Heights, New York OUy.

Fried Tripe.

Dredge with flour, or dip in egg and cracker crumbs, fry in hot butter, or other fat, until a delicate brown on both sides, ]ay it on a dish, add vinegar to the gravy, and pour over the tripe (or the vinegar may be omitted, and the gravy added, or the tripe may be served without vinegar or gravy). Or make a batter by mixing gradually one cup of flour with one of sweet milk, then add an egg well beaten and a little salt ; drain the iripe, dip in Imtter, and fry in hot drippings or lard. Salt pork and pig's-feet may be cooked by the same rule. In buying tripe get the ** honey-combed."

To fricassee tripe, cut it in narrow strips, add water or milk to it,

and a good bit of butter rolled in flour, season with pepper and a

little salt, let simmer slowly for some time, and serve hot garnished

with parsley.

Soused 'I'^ipe.

After preparing it according to directions in ** How to cut and cure meats," place in a stone jar in layers, seasoning every layer with pepper and salt, and pour over boiling vinegar, in which, if desired, a few whole cloves, a sprinkle of mace, and a stick of cinnamon have been boiled ; or cover with the jelly or liquor in which the tripe was boiled. When wanted for table, take out of jar, scrape off the liquid, and either broil, fricassee, fry in butter, or flpy plain. — Mrs. ELiza T. Carson^ Mt. Pleasant Farm.