ICES AND ICE-CREAM

let paper extend over the edges and then close the cover tight upon it ; bind and pack in ice and salt. Or a more elaborate pudding is made by adding to the gelatine custard a pint cream and three more eggs, while cooking ; remove from fire and add half tablespoon nectarine extract and strain into mold till within half an inch of top, having first half filled it with cake, fruit and nuts, placed in layers as above, using macaroons, lady fingers, currants, seedless raisins, citron and blanched almonds, preparing currants, raisins and cit- ron as in Cabinet Ice-cream and chopping the almonds. Now cut a piece from a sheet of sponge cake to fit top and place on the cus- tard, cover tightly with the lid and let the pudding cool. When cold, bind and pack as directed, for three or four hours. Serve with any pudding sauce, or a rich custard, or whipped cream, sweetened. Any kind of stale cake, macaroons or meringues, dried or preserved fruit, candied fruit or flavoring may be used, although for the latter our confectioner tells us that Nectarine Extract is more delicious for cabinet puddings ; while, we have had success in all fruit pud- dings in mixing the flavor, vanilla and lemon, half and half. The famous Nesselrode Pudding can be made with or without eggs and differs very little from anv of the iced puddings, save there must be chestnuts "in it. With Eggs, boil or blanch forty chestnuts, and as in ice-cream the Italian are best to use, peel, mash and rub through a sieve and cook in custard kettle with yolks of twelve eggs, pint cream and two teacups sugar; when it thickens strain and add teaspoon vanilla and pinch salt ; or mix the chestnut pulp with clari- fied syrup, pint

406 ICES A\D ICE-CREAM,

pared as above. Make a syrup of pint each sugar and water and the juice from one can pine-apple, cook twenty minutes in custard kettle and add beaten yolks of eleven eggs, placing on back of range and stirring constantly till it thick- ens, some using an egg beater. Take off, place inner kettle in a pan of cold water and beat fifteen minutes longer and let c ool ; then mix nut paste with half pint cream and rub through' the sieve, add to mixture and freeze. Prepare MeiionMow.

three-quarters pound mixed French candied fruit, as in Cabinet Ice-cream, chop and add with the canned pine-apple cut line, table- spoon vanilla, six tablespoons orange juice and half pint cream, whipped, when mixture is half frozen, or when ready to mold. A melon mold makes the handsomest dish and when served stick here and there roasted chestnuts or blanched almonds, dipped in a candy syrup, then slightly cooled, and also garnish the melon with them. Some add the candied fruit, flavoring, etc., to the mixture before freezing, but the extra trouble will well repay one.

Strawberry Vanity. — Beat yolks of nine eggs and two teacups pulverized sugar to a cream, and to this add one quart strawberry juice, prepared as for Strawberry Ice-cream, mixed with two teacups sugar till all dissolved. Place mixture on ice and strain into it half box gelatine, dissolved, and when it thickens slightly, stir in gently one quart pure double cream, whipped. When it begins to harden, fill in a large mold, or individual molds, and pack. Serve in two or three hours, as Vanities are more like the different creams and do not want to be as hard as ice-cream. Whole strawberries may be dropped in just before molding. Serve with whipped cream sweet- ened, or it is nice with simply sweetened cream, flavored with straw- berry juice; or with a custard made by cooking in custard kettle one pint milk or cream, yolks of three eggs and half teacup sugar ; remove from fire and add the well-whipped whites, quarter pint strawberry juice and a teaspoon orange juice and let become ice-cold. The same flavor of Vanities can be made as of ice-creams, using same proportion of fruit juice as above, and candied and preserved fruits can be added as before in ice-creams. For other flavors as vanilla,cof- fee, chocolate, etc., use quart water instead of fruit juice. Orange and Lemon Vanities may be served in the Fruit Cases by cutting off about an inch from the top of fruit corresponding to the Vanity, carefully taking out the pulp and filling with the mixture ; or a more economical way is to cut fruit in halves, take out pulp, then paste on a rim of buttered paper extending an inch and a half above the edge, fill and place in Ice-cream Cave ; or any Vanity can be filled in a cake-case as described on bottom

ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 407

take out carefully, invert on platter, placing it right side up, and heap a meringue or whipped cream upon the Vanity in center. In Lemon Vanity use only one and a half pints juice, and in Banana and Chocolate use teacup less sugar.

These are generally made of water, sugar and juice of fruits, al- though the fruit juice is used alone with its measurement of sugar, as pint for pint. The juice is obtained by rubbing fruit through a wire sieve, all except oranges and lemons (as with them none of the pulp is used), and then straining through the ice-cream, or three cornered jelly strainer, although with peaches, apples, apricots, etc., some prefer the- pulp also, and do not strain. Where any seeded fruits are used, it gives a fine flavor to leave a few of the kernels of the seed in the pulp for an hour or so, and some mash them to a paste and add, straining juice when used, but as in all flavoring, give only a slight hint rather than a decided taste. In making the first kind, if the water and sugar are not well mixed before freezing, the sugar will sink to bottom and there will be a sharp unpleasant taste, or the mixture will be granular and mushy in texture, like a hardened mixture of sweetened snow and water, and melt very quickly, even in the freezer, if it is left open a few moments, and will soon become soft and spongy. But by following directions given ices can be made as smooth and firm as the best ice-cream and much resemble it in textm-e. The sugar and water must be cooked in a custard kettle to a clear syrup and clarified, scum removed, and the hot syrup strained through the ice-cream strainer and let be- come ice-cold. Pour it into freezer, packed as for ice-cream, add the strained fruit juice, and other materials, if any, and freeze as directed ; it will usually take from fifteen to twenty minutes to effect the first freezing of ices, as they require more time than ice-cream. Then open can, scrape down si

408 ICES AND ICE-CREAM.

"brine blanket" over all as in ice-cream, and let stand to harden and ripen, for two or three hours. Open can, renew beating, repack as before and when frozen, serve.

Water-ices increase in bulk one-half when frozen as above. For what are termed Granites or Sherbets, where a syrup is not made nor the meringue added, turn out as soon as half frozen, or as wet snow. When Fruit Flavors are used, add them to the syrup when partially cooled, or place in dish in a pan of hot water and beat till melted and then add. Use earthen bowls, crocks, wooden spoons, etc., for mixing as in ice-cream. For ices, a good general rule is pint syrup to each pint fruit juice, or pint and a half Fruit Flavor, and to make syrup, take pint and a half granulated sugar to one pint water, boil fifteen minutes, add half of wliite of an egg, well beaten, let boil, strain and cool. Any of the fruit shrubs or fruit juices, canned expressly for this, make delicious ices, and juice from can- ned plums and all the berries may be used with good results. The above is one rule, but we give many different recipes that have been successfully used, making different grades of richness, flavoring, etc., although care must be taken not to make too sweet as it will not freeze as readily.

Ices are usually served in glasses as illustrated,but if molded, must have a small quantity of dissolved gelatine added to enable them to keep their shape. After mold is tilled make air-tight bj'' jjlacing a piece of writing paper around the edges, and then shutting cover -^^y "'|"'"*''^m ^S£^=% of mold upon it ; bind and pack as directed,

and when ready to serve wipe the ice and salt off mold very carefully and dip in cold water. Ices when frozen should be perfectly smooth and soft enough to yield easily to the spoon, if brittle or solid it is an indication that too much water has been used. A pretty orna- mentation for them is made by preparing a gelatine jelly in the usual manner, then reduce by slow boiling to little more than half, color as desired, strain, flavor, and cool on large platters, pouring it about third inch thick ; when cold cut out with any of the vegetable cut- ters, leaves, flowers,etc., place on the molded ices and also garnish with them when served. This is equally ornamental for ice-cream. Any fresh fruit cut in pieces, or candied or preserved fruit, or nuts, the last three prepared as in Cabinet Ice-cream, maybe added just before molding, or if not molded just before serving the ice. It is

ICES AND iCE -CREAM. 409

especially necessary with ices that they be beaten up well before dishing from freezer, and in using canned fruit use less water in proportion to fruit.

Apple Ice. — Grate, sweeten and freeze yellow bellflower apples ; canned apples may be mashed and prepared in same way. Pears, peaches or quinces can also be frozen as above. Or make a syrup of three pints of water and four teacups sugar ; let cool. Quickly slice unpared, tart and nicely flavored apples, then chop, mash and rub through wire sieve until a pint of pulp and juice is obtained, which add immediately to syrup ; freeze, add meringue and finish as directed. Peachy Pear, Apricot, Cherry, Nectarine and Phnn Ices are made in same manner. Canned fruit may be used with less water in syrup and if Fruit Flavor is used, take proportion as given.

Apricot Ice. — Cut in pieces two cups best apricots and stew with the blanched kernels in two cups water and one cup sugar un- til tender, then rub through sieve and put in freezer. Freeze, and when partly frozen beat in well-frothed whites of two eggs, or the meringue as described above, and finish as directed. Just before serving stir in cup sliced apricots. Canned apricots may be used with their syrup using less water. Peach Ice may be prepared in same way.

Cherry Ice. — Take two quarts sweet cherries, one of water and three teacups sugar. Pound fruit in mortar so as to break the stones and strain the juice through a fine strainer. Boil the cherry pulp with some of the sugar and water to extract the flavor from the ker- nels, and rub that through the sieve ; mix all together and freeze. This may be molded with a nut cream by lining a mold with the ice and filling the middle with the cream ; bind and pack as directed. Or if served direct from the freezer, place the ice as a border in the individual dishes aud the nut ice-cream in the center. This is a nice way to serve difierent creams and ices.

Citron Ice. — Make two quarts rich lemonade, well flavored with the rind ; if grated rind is used, the lemonade must be strained before putting in citron. Slice enough citron thin and small to loosely fill a half-pint measure, and add to lemonade. Let boil a moment, or if made previous evening, this will not be necessary ; cool, freeze, and when partly frozen add the meringue and finish as directed. Preserved Watermelon can be used in same way.

Currant Ice. — Boil down three pints water and a pound and a half sugar to a quart, skim, add two cups currant juice, and when partly frozen, add whites of five eggs.

410 ICE9 AND ICE-CREAM.

Gooseberry Ice. — Stew gooseberries until soft, squeeze through ice-cream strainer, and to every pint juice add pint and a half gran- ulated sugar and pint water; mix well, and freeze; when half frozen add whipped whites of three eggs.

Grape Ice. — Stew a cup ripe Concord grapes, mash with a pint sugar, aad juice of a lemon ana pint water, strain and freeze.

Lemon Ice. — To one pint lemon juice, add one quart sugar, and one quart water, in which the thin rind of three lemons has been allowed to stand until highly flavored ; when parth^ frozen add the whites of two eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Or prepare nine lemons and three oranges, as in Saratoga Ice-cream, being very careful to extract every seed, as they cause a bitter taste. To a syrup made of quart and a half water and four teacups sugar add lemon juice, will be about half pint, and half as much orange, and when partly frozen add the meringue of one egg ; prepare zest from only half the lemons. Serve in glasses with tablespoon meringue, (whites of two eggs beaten well witk two tablespoons sugar), flavored with orange juice, on each glass.

Orange Ice. — Make as above, using nine oranges and one lemon ; when frozen fill in the orange fruit cases and place in Ice-cream Cave for three or four hours, and it is then made more delicious by covering the ice in each case with a meringue and browning quickly with a red hot salamander, serving immediately. The orange pulp taken from cases can be used in obtaining juice. Or make a thick syrup by boiling two teacups sugar with teacup water; divide three c^ the oranges, after peeling, by the natural divisions, and drop the piv'^ces into the boiling syrup, first extracting the seeds ; grate the yellow zest of the remaining three oranges into a bowl and squeeze in the juice; then pour the syrup from the scalded slices into the bowl, and keep the slices on ice, to be added last. Add quart water and juice of a small lemon to syrup, strain and freeze. When partly frozen whip four whites firm, stir them in and beat up the ice till it looks like cream ; cover closely and pac^k with more ice and salt, and when done mix in gently the orange slices, without breaking them. Serve in ice-cups, glasses or saucers. Raspherry and Straioherry Ice can be maae as above, using with the lemon juice, a little orange juice also in the strawberry.

Peach Ice. — Make a syrup or not as liked, in proportion as given in directions and add one can or twelve fresh peaches well mashed. When frozen add beaten whites of three eggs and finish as directed. Or, peel and quarter the fresh peaches, add syrup, and put at once in mold, having first placed some of the slices of peaches in bottom of mold ; cover, binci and pack for five or six hours ; cream and sugar mav be used instead of the syrup, making Peaches and Cream Ice. Whipping the cream is an addition.

TCE3 AND ICE-CREAM. 411

Pine-apple Ice. — Bruise a half pound fresh pine-apple in a mortar, add juice of one lemon, half pint water, pint clarified syrup, strain and freeze, adding the meringue when half frozen if wished! For Tutti Fruttl Ice, place a layer of Lemon or above ice in a Brick mold, making it quarter full, and place in ice and salt ; then mix an equal portion each candied apricots, cherries, strawberries or any fruits wished, and blanched almond or pistachio nuts, pre- pared as in Cabinet Ice-cream, in all about a pound of mixture, Avith a quart of Strawberry or Orange Ice, and add to mold till three- fourths full ; smooth and add of first ice. Lemon or Pine-apple, till full to overflowing. Bind and pack as directed for three or four hours. Preserved fruits may be used, prepared as in ice-cream directions, and a little preserved ginger or angelica root is a choice addition. Use other ices also, according to different tastes.

S710W Ice. — Add quarter pound sugar to half pint cream, and flavor highly with vanilla or lemon ; if lemon juice is used, more sugar will be required. Stir in newly-fallen snow until thick as ice- cream, and any kind of fruit juice may be used instead of cream. In either case the snow must not be added until just before serving.

Straioberry /<?<3.— Nice sound fruit should be obtained, stems removed, and the berries gently wiped perfectly clean and dry; then put into a dish, and place pulverized sugar over them, stirring with a wooden spoon until fruit is slightly mashed. Rub pint pulp with gill and a half juice through wire sieve, add pint clarified syrup ,^f^/X,^;^/i>^ and freeze. Pour into small glasses, and arrange in dish as illustrated, on a foun- dation of green leaves ; or mash two quarts

strawberries with two pounds sugar ; let

Strawberry ico. staud au hour or more, squeeze in a crash

strainer, pressing out all juice, add equal measure water , and when half frozen, add the white of one egg beaten with tablespoon pulver- ized sugar.

Colorings. — For Blue rub a piece of indigo with a little water and add by drops to the mixture to be colored until the desired shade is reached. For Brown use grated chocolate, or for a very light brown. Caramel., which is prepared for immediate use by put- ting cup granulated sugar in iron skillet or frying-pan set over fire, and stirring constantly until a dark brown color and as thick as molasses. When properly done a cup sugar will make five table- spoons coloring. When preparing for bottling, boil a longer time, then add a half pint water and boil again, until a little cooled in saucer is found thick as molasses or honey. If too thick, or if it candies, add a little more water and boil again. Bottle, and if kept corked it will never spoil. For Green use either the Parsley or Spinach Coloring, given on page 180. For PinJc use strawberry, currant or cranberry juice or jelly. If a bright Bedis desired, mix

412 ICES AJH) ICE-CREAM.

one drachm each pulverized alum and cream tartar, four drachms powdered cochineal, two ounces loaf sugar and saltspoon soda ; or same proportions in level tablespoons are two-thirds tablespoon pul- verized alum, half tablespoon cream tartar, two and a half of pow- dered cochineal, four of pounded loaf sugar and the saltspoon soda ; boil ten minutes in half pint pure soft water and when cool bottle and cook for use. For Yellow, use the juice of a carrot or the grated peel of an orange or lemon, moistened with the juice or a lit- tle water, and squeezed through a cloth. When a deeper color is wanted boil a little American saffron with a little water till a bright yellow, strain and cool, and use enough to give desired shade ; some use a mixture of an ounce turmeric with four of deodorized alcohol, shaking till dissolved and then straining and bottling. No objec- tion can be made to the use of any of the above, save perhaps to the blue, which is very seldom used, and only for Ornamental Icing. The others are all fruit or vegetable preparations, and their use adds greatly to the handsome appearance of ices and ice-creams, icing, jellies, cakes, creams and pudding and other sauces. To guard against getting in too much coloring, use by putting in a very little at first, mixing well, then add a very little more until aesired shade is obtained.

Gopher Orange Ice — ^lake a syrup of three pints water end one quart sugar; Avhen cool add two gills lemon juice and three of orange juice ; freeze and when half frozen add white of one egg, bent- en well with tablespoon sugar. Thoroughly beat it with the ice, finish freezing and serve. Strawberries or slices of pineapples gently stir- red ihrovLghjust before serving (if added too long before, they freeze and are unpleasant to eat) make a delicious variety. Pine-apple Ice may be made of canned pine-apple using pint of juice, ana gill lemon juice with above proportion of syrup, adding the pine-a})}>le cut in dice just before serving, if wished. With all ices it is always better to add a gill of lemon juice, as the acid assists in the freezing and also adds to the flavor. Any proportions of the recipe may be made ; above makes about two dozen dishes.

ICING. 413

Nothing adds more to the elegance of a ■well spread table then a handsomely iced and ornamented cake, which with a little care and painstaking can as well be prepared at home as ordered from the caterer, and at much less expense. For a plain quickly made icing for a loaf of cake of ordinary size take white of one egg and eleven heaping teaspoons pulverized sugar. If obtainable, use the confectioners' sugar known as ''XXX." Be careful not to get in any of the yolk of the eggs, as then the icing will not beat up well, and be sure the bowl, spoon or spatula, and all utensils used are perfectly free from grease. Beat well, and do not attempt to make the icing thick and stiff by adding sugar alone, or it will run. Good icing de- pends upon good beating as well as quantity ^ ' -"fr^ift of sugar. Beat whites of eggs to stiff froth, and ^^'"' -*i2±s^p' add pulverized sugar gradually, beating all vrooien spamia. the time. A wooden spatula is better than a spoon for beating in the sugar. There are various opinions about the length of time icing should be beaten, some giving half an hour, others a much shorter time. Some break the whites into a broad platter and at once begin adding sugar, and keep adding gradually, beating well all the while until all sugar is dissolved and the icing is perfectly smooth. Thirty minutes' beating ought to be sufficient. Lastly, add flavoring, rose, pine-apple or almond for white or delicate cake, and lemon or vanilla for dark or fruit cake. The same amount of material, prepared with the whites of eggs unbeaten, will make one- third less icing than if the eggs are beaten to a stiff froth before adding the sugar; but those who prefer this method think the icing is en

414 ICING.

housekeepers ; the eggs are beaten to a slight foam, sugar added gradually, or all at once, and when thoroughly incorporated, flavor and use. Sometimes the whites of eggs will not froth readily, when add a pinch of alum, sugar, salt or soda; a teaspoon lemon juice or a little citric acid whitens icing, and the white of one egg whipped separately and beaten in just before putting on the cake makes the icing smooth and glossy. A little corn-starch helps to thicken ic- ing. If the flavor is lemon juice, allow more sugar for the additional liquid.

Have the icing ready when the cake is baked and be sure that it is thoroughly beaten before removing cake from oven; if pos- sible, have some one beating while cake is being removed. Invert a common tin milk-pan, placing it on a clean paper, so that if any icing falls off" it can be used again, then place the cake on the pan, trim ofi'all unsightly excrescences with a clean, sharp knife and af)- ply icing, pouring it around the center of the cake and smoothing ofi" as quickly as possible with a knife ; it should run over the cake, be- coming as smooth as glass, and adhere firmly to it. If the icing is a little stiff dip the knife in cold water. Dredging the cake well with flour when taken from the oven and wiping carefully before ic- ing will keep the icing from running ; when icing only the top of cake, place a rim of stiff white paper around it to keep the icing in place until it sets. If but one person is engaged in preparing cake and ic- ing, and must necessarily stop beating while getting the cake in readiness, it will be best to beat the icing a few minutes again be- fore placing on cake. As eggs vary in size, some common sense must be used in the quantity of sugar. Practice only will teach just how stiff icing ought to be. An excellent proportion is three-fourths teacup pulverized sugar to the white of one full-sized egg, but more sugar is sometimes required. In preparing for a large party, when it is inconvenient to ice each cake as it is taken from the oven, and a number have become cold, place in the oven to heat before icing. If wanted very nice, put the icing on in two coats, letting the first dry before putting on the second, when the icing left may be sufH- ciently

ICING. 415

tie stiff, spread it out with a knife, taking care not to spread it quite to edge of cake (within a quarter of an inch), as it will run to the edge of itself ; if it is not fully smooth, place a knife under the cake and shake it a little, which will cause all the rough parts to become smooth. To ice the sides of the cake, add a little more sugar to the icing, and beat it in well ; then with the knife place it on the sides of cake until fully covered ; and by holding the knife perpendicularly, with the edge to the icing, and the back leaning a little towards the icing, draw it all around the side of the cake ; when it comes round to the starting point, suddenly give the knife a twist, and turn the back from the icing, and at the same time and by the same motion, remove the edge from contact with the icing. If this is done neatly and quickly one will hardly be able to find where it is joined. The cake now needs only to be dried, and it is ready for the ornamental icing or piping. Ornaments, such as gum drops, candies, orange flowers or ribbons should be put on while the icing is moist. It is nice when the frosting is almost cold, to take a knife and mark the cake in slices.

Almond Icing. — Blanch half pint sweet almonds by putting them in boiling water, taking off skins, and spreading upon a dry cloth until cold ; pound a few of them at a time in a mortar till well pulverized : mix carefully whites of three eggs and three-quarters pint powdered sugar, add almonds, flavor with a teaspoon vanilla or lemon, ice the cake and dry in a cool oven or in the open air when weather is pleasant. Or take two cups sugar, pour over a half cup boiling water, cook until ropy ; beat whites of two eggs, stir into sugar and beat until cold ; add flavoring extract (bitter almonds is best), and one and a half cups blanched and chopped sweet al- monds.

Boiled Icing. — Beat white of one egg to a stiff froth ; boil one cup granulated sugar and one-half gill or four tablespoons water till it threads when dropped from spoon. Pour in a fine stream while boiling hot, into the beaten egg, stirring briskly all the time and con- tinue stirring the mixture in the "round and round" way, never stop- ping till icing is thick and cold. Flavor as liked. For Confectioner'^ s Boiled Icing, take whites of six eggs and beat to a stiff froth with half pound sifted granulated sugar. Boil another half pound sugar with a pint water (adding piece of cream tartar size of a pea) until a drop taken on the finger (first dip the finger in cold water) will pull into a fine thread by touching with the thumb. Then pour this

416 ICES.

into the whites of eggs, stirring very swiftly to cook all alike, and lastly add six ounces sifted XXX sugar. Or, boil three-fourths pint granulated sugar, moistened with four tablespoons hot water, briskly for five minutes or until it "jingles" on the bottom of the cup when dropped into cold water, or "ropes" or threads when dropped from the end of spoon. Then with left hand, pour the boiling syrup upon the well-beaten whites of three eggs in a small stream, while beating hard with right hand. This is an excellent frosting and may be flavored as liked. If preferred, add halt pound sweet almonds, blanched and pounded to a paste, or a cup of hickory-nut meat.**, chopped fine, and it will be delicious. Some also add half cup stoned and chopped raisins. This will ice the top of two large cakes. An- other method is to beat whites of four eggs with one and one-third pints powdered sugar, stir in a cup water and boil all together until thick and creamy, adding flavoring after taking from fire. For Boiled Icing Without kggs, boil a cup granulated sugar four or five min- tes with five tablespoons milk. Stir on ice or in cool place until cold and creamy, and wait until cake is cold before icing. Economical, and preferred by some to that with eggs. Any of the above recipes makes a nice Chocolate Icing with the addition of grated chocolate to taste.

Chocolate Icing. — Six rounded tablespoons grated chocolate, one and a half cups powdered sugar, whites of three eggs ; beat whites but very little (they must not become Avhite), add chocolate, stir it in, then pour in the sugar gradually, beating to mix it well. An- other method used by confectioners is to put the desired quantity of Baker's eagle cocoa in a pan and place it in boiling water until cocoa is dissolved, then add powdered sugar to taste, and beat it in well ; to give a gloss add also the whites of two eggs, slightly whipped, to everv pound of cocoa used ; beat the sugar and whites of eggs well together, and with a knife spread the cocoa (or rather the chocolate TYow that it has the sugar in it, for chocolate is simply cocoa sweet- ened), evenly on the cake ; be as quick as possible, for as soon as it cools it hardens, if simjile Cocoa Icing is wanted use the cocoa and whites of eggs only ; but if sweet or chocolate icing, add sugar. To help a little in first attempt, add one tablespoon hot water to a pound cocoa ; this will keep it moist and liquid a little longer, but it will take longer to harden. What is known as Cream Chocolate Icing is pre- pared in same manner, using half cocoa and half pure cream, and sweetening to taste. In this case use no whites of eggs, but simply dissolve the cocoa as above described, then add sugar, and afterwards gradually stir in cream. Chocolate icing is also used to ice jelly cakes and other small cakes, and chocolate eclairs ; it may also be used as an icing for anything, and can be piped, ornamented, or decorated with Piping Icing. Cocoa may also be mixed with plain icing; add little or much cocoa as desired, and it may be used for

ICES. 417

other icing. For Chocolate Icing With Gelatine^ soak a teaspoon gelatine one or two hours in three tablespoons water. Pour on it one-fourth cup boiling water, and stir in one and two-thirds cups powdered sugar. Grate two squares chocolate and stir into this mixture. Use immediately. For Boiled Chocolate Icing, beat one and two-thirds cups pulverized sugar into unbeaten Avhites of two eggs. Grate two squares chocolate, and put it and one-third cup sugar and four tablespoons boiling water in small frying-pan. Stir over a hot tire until smooth and glossy, and then stir this into beaten whites and sugar. Enough for two loaves or one layer cake. Or for a much richer icing boil two cups granulated sugar and half cup water together for five minutes and add small cup grated chocolate. When a drop hardens in cold w^ater stir four whole eggs in rapidly, beating all the while. Cook five minutes, stir- ring constantly, and flavor with vanilla, if liked. Does not crack nor break, and for this reason is highly prized. To make Chocolate Caramel Icing, take one cup brown sugar, one square Baker's choc- olate, grated, and, one tablespoon water or milk ; simmer gently twenty minutes, and spread on cake while hot. Or boil half cup milk, coffee-cup sug>n-, butter size of an egg and two tablespoons grated chocolate twenry minutes, or till thick. Flavor with vanilla, or some add a pinch best pulverized cinnamon. To ice small cakes with this, take them on a fork and dip into the icing deep enough to ice both top a'^d sides. If to be put together in pyramidal form, ice the bottom ana sides, instead of top, because of the more uniform sur- face. To keep the icing from becoming cold and hard while using, set in a pan of hot

Clear Icing. — Mix a cup nice gelatine jelly with a teaspoon lemon juice and whites of two eggs until smooth, and pour over the cake. If the cake is not hot enough to dry it, place for a few min- utes in a moderately warm oven.

Confectioner's Icing. — Break whites of four eggs into a large shallow platter in a cool room — in summer set on ice — and whip until they foam but do not whiten. Sift in a pound (one and one- third pints) powdered sugar, quite slowly, beating all the time steadily from the bottom so as to bring up every drop of egg at each sweep of the egg whip, and so continue until the mixture is as white and fine as snow, and can be cut with a knife as clean and smooth as if it were cake, when it is ready for use. Apply in two coats. Suf-

418 ICING.

ficient for one large or two small loaves of cake, and those who pre- fer a Hard Icing will find nothing better.

Cornstarch Icing. — White of an egg beaten to a^tifFfroth, ten heaping teaspoons powdered sugar and one of corn-starch.

Eggless Icing. — To one heaping teaspoon laundry starch and just enough cold water to dissolve it, add a little hot water and cook in a pan set in hot water till very thick (or cook in a crock ; either will ])revent its burning or becoming lumpy). Stir in two and two- thirds cui)S sugar while the starch is hot ; iiavor to taste, and spread on while the cake is a little warm. This should be made the day before using, as it takes longer to harden than when made with eggs, but it will never crumble in cutting, and is excellent.

French Icing. — Take white of one Q^g Avith twice its bulk in water, about four tablespoons, and beat asstiff as possible ; then add XXX sugar till as thick as plain icing, or so it will spread nicely. It will take al)out one pint sugar, or three-quarters of a pound. This is especially nice for layer cakes, and in building sprinkle over each layer any nut meats liked, English walnuts, hickory nuts or blanched almonds, chopped, and for top layer })lace on in halves. One large egg or two small eggs will ice three layers. Use also for top of large cakes but is not nice for the sides. This is very deli- cious, can be put on in as thick a layer as wished, and is like the French Candy (uncooked), exce])t more water is used; when making it one can use part for icing and thicken the rest for the candy.

Gelatine Icing. — Dissolve one teaspoon gelatine in three table spoon warm water,add a cup pulverized sugar and beat until smooth Flavor to taste. Or soak the gelatine in a tablespoon cold water half an hour; dissolve in two ta])lespoons hot water; add one cup powdered sugar and stir until smooth.

Glaze Icing. — Stir beaten white of one egg with a little water and set over boiling water until the mixture boils ; then put in a few drops cold water, stir in a cup ]>owdered sugar, boil to a foam and use. Or stir into one ]iound powdered sugar, one tablespoon cold water; beat whites three eggs a little, not to a stiff froth, and add to the sugar and water ; put in a deep bowl, place in a vessel of boiling Avater and heat. It will become thin and clear, afterward begin to thicken. When quite thick take from fire and stir while it cools till thick enough to spread with a knife. This will ice several ordinary sized cakes.

Isinglass Icing. — Pour a half cup boiling water on a sheet isin- glass and stand it in warm place to dissolve slowly. When there is no scum on top add a pound powdered sugar and a heaping teaspoon

corn-starch. When cakes are cold, pour the icing over, smooth it down as little as possible and set away in a cool place to harden. Nice, and much easier than to make icing with eggs.

Lemon Icing. — Beat whites of two eggs and two cups sugar to- gether, and add juice and part of the grated rind of two lemons strained. Or make Confectioner's Icing and add the strained juice and zest of one lemon, with eight tablespoons more powdered sugar. Color if desired with a few drops Yellow Coloring. Orange Icing made s«'me, adding also teaspoon lemon juice.

Marble Icing. — Cover cake with any plain white icing, let hard- en a little, color some of the icing with chocolate and spread it over the white, and so on as many layers as desired. Spread with a knife and dry in cool oven.

Meringue Icing. — A nice icing for pies, puddings, etc., is made by beating the whites of six eggs to a very firm froth, they cannot be beaten too stiff, and if not stiff the meringue will not be good. While beating add a saltspoon salt, and heaping teaspoon powdered sugar ; when well beaten stir in well but very lightly half a pound (a little more than half a pint) powdered sugar; with a knife spread a coating of the meringue all over the pie after baking, and if wanted ornamented fill a cone with the meringue icing and proceed to work out some design. When finished return to oven to take a light brown color. Any design may be worked with this as well as with other icing, but the patterns are larger and are done with a cone with a larger portion cut off the point. For centers of meringue pies use such designs as a swan, an ear of corn, an anchor, a "true lover's knot," a Maltese cross, a bunch of grapes, or whatever fancy dictates ; the pie niay be decorated with fruit jelly in addition to the Meringue Top. mcringuc piping, putting on the jelly with a

cone, and in the same manner as the piping. Chocolate is not used on meringue work, neither is the meringue ever colored except a light cream ; pink colored sugar is sometimes sprinkled over it. To color pink simply drop a little cochineal color on some granulated sugar, and rub it together until colored, then dry, rub it apart and keep in bottle ready for use. It will keep its color for years. This icing is used on lemon pies, peach pies, etc.

Orange Icing. — Mix a half pound powdered sugar with one tablespoonful each orange juice and boiling water, and half the grat- ed rind of an orange ; beat till fine and smooth, strain, and spread on the cake, while still warm, about an eighth of an inch thick,

smoothing it carefully with a wet knife. This is especially nice for sponge cake.

Pearl Icing. — Break Avhites of three eggs in clean china bowl with a round bottom. Add about half pound finest powdered sugar and beat vigorously with a wooden spatula till it begins to thicken, then add level saltspoon cream tartar and one drop indigo blue ; add about quarter pound sugar ; continue beating and add more sugar, a teaspoon at a time, until the icing is as thick as wished, using in all about a pound.

Plain loinfj. — Beat whites of three eggs until frothy, not white' adding one and a third pint'^ powdered sugar gradually Avith one hand, beating briskly with the other. Flavor with teaspoon vanilla. Another proportion is whites of two eggs to a half pound sugar (a* little more than a half pint), with a little lemon juice or tartaric acid to whiten. When icing sponge cake with plain icing it is an improvement to first grate orange peel over top of cake.

Quick Icing. — Put cup sugar into a bowl with a tablespoon lemon juice and unwhipped whites of two eggs, or add the sugar gradually. Beat together until just smooth and pour over the cake ; if the cake is not hot enough to dry it, place in a moderately warm oven.

Snow Icing. — Put one pint wliite sugar, unbeaten whites of three eggs and a teaspoon rose or lemon extract into an earthen dish, stir well together and set in saucepan boiling water ; stir con- stantly and cook eight or ten minutes, or until white and glistening. Put on cake while icing is warm, as it hardens quickly.

Soft Icing. — Mix a half pound finely pulverized, sifted sugar, with a tablespoon boiling water, and the same of lemon or any fruit juice, and spread at once on the cake while still warm from the oven, about an eighth of an inch thick. Especially nice for all kinds of sponge cake, and other light and dry cakes, such as snow cake, etc.

Transparent Icing. — Boil a pound granulated sugar with a half pint water until thick as mucilage : then rub with a wooden spoon against sides of pan until white and milky. Stir in one teaspoon vanilla extract and pour while hot over the top of the cake, com- pletely covering it.

Tutti Fruttl Icing. — Boil a pint granulated sugar with a half cup water until it "threads." Pour this into the well-frothed whites of two eggs and beat till cool; mix together a half pound blanched and chopped sweet almonds, and a quarter pound sultana or seed- less raisins, swelled in hot water, and the same of finely chopped citron, and stir into the icing. Very nicfe for sponge and fruit cake.

Water Icing. — Take any quantity powdered sugar required, add enough cold water to form a thick paste (it will not take much);

ICING. 421

beat well, and if too thin so that it runs too much, add a little more sugar. To every pound sugar, add a level teaspoon cream tartar ; when this icing is prepared, spread it with a knife over the cake, and allow it to dry ; then ornament or decorate it with Piping Icing or currant jelly. This water icing may also be colored a light shade of pink with cochineal, or a light cream color with saffron. For a mauve color, add a drop of indigo blue to the pink color ; but none of these colors must be decided, only a simple tint. Water icing is used for tops of pound, sponge and jelly cakes.

Yellow Icing. — Take the yolk of one egg to nine heaping tea- spoons powdered sugar, and flavor with vanilla. Use day it is made.

Omameiital Icing.

Ornamental icing consists in working two or more colors of icing on one surface — such, for instance, as pink and white, or choco- late and white, either with or without the addition of crystallizing. To ice a cake white and pipe or ornament it with pink pipery, or ice it with pink or chocolate icing and pipe it with white icing, would constitute ornamental icing. But there is another method called "inlaid," which consists of different colored icing on the same sur- face, not simply a different colored piping on icing. To do this take a cone, cut a fine point off, fill it as instructed in Artistic Piping, draw fine lines first straight down one inch apart, then across at same distance at right angles, forming squares one inch across. Fill these in alternately with either white or pink and white, and then chocolate icing or pink and chocolate, which leaves the squares in two colors, as they appear on a chess-board. The icing must be soft enough to just run smoothly ; the lines will prevent it from run- ning together. Any desired pattern may be worked in this manner by simply running a line of piping to form the design, then filling in as above. This may be varied by marking out any design, and with a small pastry brush washing it over with white of egg or gum- water, then covering with fine granulated sugar, either white or colored ; or cover it with powdered chocolate or rolled rock candy, either pink or white; shake off what will not stick, and the design willbe covered with sugar; pipe around the edge of the design with a fine cone of Piping Icing, and it is complete.

422 ORNAMENTAL ICING.

Crystallization. — Simply cover the cake while the icing is wet with granulated sugar, white or pink. Or use pink or white sugar or rock cand}' crushed. To crystallize only a portion of the icing, and that in auA' particular design, first allow the icing to dry, then wash the part to be crystallized with Avhite of egg or gum-water, and cover with sugar ; then shake off what will not remain on.

Artistic Pqnng vnth Diagrams. — For the benefit of those who wish to excel in the art of ornamenting bride or other cakes with icing, technically called "piping," a sheet of diagrams is given which almost explains itself, and will recjuire but little study by those having a taste for artistic work, and by mastering this sheet of diagrams before attempting anything more elaborate, one will soon be able to ornament a cake equal to an expert. This applies to all kinds of ornamenting, as it is all done in the same manner, no mat- ter whether the material used be butter, lard, or savory jelly for the decoration of tongues, roast chicken, hams, etc., or sweet jelly, choco- late or sugar for the ornamentation of all kinds of cakes. To use jelly for decorating or piping cakes, set in a place where it will get just warm enough to pass through the cone with a gentle pressure ; in cold weather it is well to also beat it with a spoon, making it of uniform consistency. When ready for use fill cone with it, and proceed as directed for piping, using cone as if it contained icing.

Piping Icing. — Prepare in same manner as plain icing, Init make stifi' enough to retain its shape, or at least so that it will not run smoothly b}' adding a little more sugar (a teaspoon perhaps), and a little extra beating. To use it, fill the meringue bag already described in confectionery, or have ready some paper cones, made by folding or rolling up a piece of paper in form of a cornet, and se- curing joint with a little mucilage or white of eggs (see No. 1, in page of diagrams) ; with a sharp knife cut off point of cone so as to leave hole any size needed, from a pin's size to half an inch in diameter (see 2, for plain round work). If a star is wished (3), cut off point of cone to form an aperture equal to center of star, then cutout points, as shown in 22. If for a leaf, cut as shown in 24. To save trouble of cutting cones use little brass tubes, made for the purpose, to be had at a cost of from ten to fifteen cents each. In using these cut off point of paper cone large enough to allow tube to come through half its length. Fill the cones three-fourths full with pre- pared icing, fold down top securely, so the icing will not force back, and commence the ornamentation. Have the cake ready iced, and mark out with a lead-pencil as lightly as possible the design on the cake; then go over design wifh the cones of icing, as hereafter described, until the design is complete. It is of course necessary to have first mastered the diagrams in order to so arrange the vari- ous ones as to form a harmonious whole and produce an artistic design.

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42-4 ORNAMENTAL ICING.

To practice the use of the cones, procure a perfectly smooth walnut board, about twelve inches square. This being dark and the icing white the work can be easily seen, and if every thing is clean the sugar need not be wasted, as it can be scraped off and used for other purposes.

Fill a cone with icing, take it in left hand, and place thumb of right hand on the folded part or top ; use thumb to press on cone to force out icing at point, in same manner as when using a syringe. Force out the icing with regular and even pressure, and draw a number of fine lines, as even and straight as possible, by dropping point of cone in left hand corner of board, and ^\ith an onward mo- tion, in accordance with the flow of icing, which will be little or much, in proportion to pressure given tube, run it straight on to right hand corner (4). This line can be made larger by pressing harder on cone. Repeat this, giving cone a zigzag motion (5) ; then commence light, gradually increasing pressure, to produce a line small at one end and large at the other (6) ; reverse by beginning heavy and finishing light (7). Disconnect cone from icing, by taking off pressure from cone, and giving a quick, sudden upward jerk. Do some cross stringing (8), then 9 to 17; with same cone, held perpendicularly, (pushingthe icing out till drop is required size, then suddenly detach in manner above mentioned), drop different sized dots (18 to 20) ; then commencing at large end first and gradu- ally drawing fine thread, do No. 21. Take the star cut cone (22), and drop star dots, same as in 18, 19, and 20; with a circular or rotary motion, make roses (23) ; then repeat with the star cone all done with plain round cone. Next take the leaf cone (24), and by beginning at large end of leaf first, and gradually drawing to a point, make the leaf as long as desired (25) ; form veins in leaf by giving cone a wavy motion. Then put two together (26), and with star cone add a rose (27), then three leaves and

This seems a good deal on paper, but can all be done on a board very easily if one has the patience to go slowly at first.

Having gone thus far, one may now form an original design by making whatever com])ination fancy dictates, from the scrolls, lines, curves, etc., shown in diagrams; it may be somewhat crude at first, but practice will make perfect. As an example, which will explain the whole, first make a simple combination, producing a l)uneh of grapes. "With leaf cone make four leaves (38), and with plain round

ORNAMENTAL ICING. 425

cone add stem ; also, with same kind of cone, only cut a little larger to make a larger drop, add grapes by making a succession of dots, gradually making higher in the middle (39) ; then as a finish, with glain small cone add the scroll shown running oyer the grapes. An- other illustration : To make a large leaf, in imitation of those used on bride's cake, first mark the outline of leaf (40), and with plain round cone run cross lines, as shown in 8, also in 41 ; then with plain round cone add the edge in dots, shown in 20 and 42. For further illustration, see cut for top of jelly or other cake (page 429) made up of grapes and leaves desrcribed. Heavy and light work may be done with same cone by adding pressure ; for instance, if using a cone with fine point, by drawing with a regular motion and even pressure, a line of icing is produced the same size as the hole though which it comes ; but if the cone is drawn along slower than icing comes out, a heavier line results ; to make a very fine line with same cone, use even pressure, but draw cone along very fast; bear in mind there is a limit to size, and when that is reached to press harder will burst the cone ; when the limit is reached, if a larger flow is wanted have another cone with larger opening at point. This applies to all shapes, whether round, star, or leaf. The cone may be used same as a pen, pressing heavy and light ; for example, if making a scroll, like 11, with fine round cone, when the bend of scroll is reached giving the cone a little more pressure causes more sugar to flow, thus producing the fullness in the curve ; when this is done withdraw pressure and continue as before.

Bride's Cake. — A reference to the design for bride's cake top, No. 1, will show that it is a combination of the scrolls, etc., given in

the diagrams for artistic piping ; it is not given as a design or a work of art, but sim- ply to show how those scrolls, etc., can be connected and arranged so as to form a de- sign. After making this, one will be sur- )rised to find how easy a task a second will )e. Note that this design is made up of 36, 20, 13, 18, 6, 8, and 21 of the diagrams ; also note that two leaves are of one pattern and two of another. When pip- ing cake make all four leaves of same Brides Cake Top, No. 1. pattern, whichevcr preferred. The two

are given simply to illustrate the diagrams. A cut for the side of cake is given for refer- ence if wished to pipe

the side. This is 17 in _

the diagrams, and the bottom is finished off with simple, plain round dots (2 in diagrams), all of one size. The cut for bride's cake top No.

Sides for Cakes.