OF THE CHOOSING AND ROASTING OF PLAIN JOINTS

Here I must claim all the attention of my readers: many of the profession will, I have no doubt, be surprised that I should dwell upon a subject which appears of so little importance, saying that, from the plain cook to the most professed, all know how to roast or boil a piece of meat, but there I must beg their pardon; I will instance myself: for, previously to my forming any intention of writing the present work, I had not devoted the time necessary to become professionally acquainted with it, always depending upon my roasting cook, who had constant practice, myself only having the knowledge of whether or not properly done. I have since not only studied it closely, but have made in many respects improvements upon the old system, and many discoveries in that branch which I am sure is the most beneficial to all classes of society (remembering, as I have before stated, that three parts of the animal food of this country is served either plain roasted or boiled). My first study was the fire, which I soon perceived was too deep, consumed too much coal, and required poking every half hour, thus sending dust and dirt all over the joints, which were immediately basted to wash it off; seeing plainly this inconvenience, I immediately remedied it by inventing my new roasting fire-place (see page 622), by which means I saved two hundred-weight of coals per day, besides the advantage of never requiring to be poked, being narrow and perpendicular; the fire is lighted with the greatest facility, and the front of the fire being placed a foot back in the chimney-piece, throws the heat of the fire direct upon the meat, and not out at the sides, as many persons know from the old roasting ranges. I have many times placed ladies or gentlemen, visiting the club, within two feet of the fire when six large joints have been roasting, and they have been in perfect ignorance that it was near them until upon opening the wing of the screen (see same Plate) by surprise, they have appeared quit

Every country is famous, more or less, for some produce, so is every county; for instance, for the best beef we are indebted principally to Scotland: the Highland ox, which if bred in Scotland, kept there until four years old, and fed twelve months in Norfolk, cannot be surpassed; those also that are killed in Scotland are likewise very commendable, but the connoisseur would give the preference by far to those that had undergone a change of atmosphere and pasturage. Norfolk also produces excellent beef, as likewise does Herefordshire, which three sorts are ranked as the best by the first judges.

The Brighton downs are noted for producing sheep of the first quality, next to which may be ranked those of the Norfolk downs, they are rather larger, more fleshy, and the meat sometimes a darker colour. Herefordshire also produces some very excellent. The Scotch mutton is also very good, and deservedly of high repute, but I rarely ever use it, as it is killed in Scotland and hurriedly packed, which causes it not to look so well, and frequently very much bruises it; but those of Leicestershire are, in my opinion, quite the contrary, being coarse meat and very fat; I consider it unworthy of making its appearance upon the table of a man of wealth. When residing at Melton Mowbray I tried several haunches, even after hanging a month in winter, and then roasted to perfection, I could not find in them any flavour worthy of the taste of an epicure; I consider it more as a useful nourishment than a delicate meat.

The best Welsh mutton is brought direct from its native mountains, the heath upon which it feeds gives a very rich flavour to the meat, which is very dark without much fat; many are fed in some of the English counties, they are very excellent and much fatter, but do not possess the same wild flavour.

The beat veal to be obtained in the spring time of the year comes from the west of England, being rather small and very white, but there is a steady supply of good veal from Surrey and Essex throughout the year. Although very fine veal may be obtained in this country, it is not to be compared to the quality of veal we obtain in France; the veal of Pontoise, a little town six miles from Paris, outrivals any; I would venture to say that one pound of that veal would make a better stock than double the quantity of the veal procured here: no one can account for it, but such is the actual case; although there the quality of any other description of animal food is deficient, we have to boast of the excellent flavour, succulence, and excessive whiteness of our veal.

House lamb may be obtained throughout the whole year, but there is no great demand for it before February; grass lamb makes its appearance now much earlier than formerly: the quality much depends upon the winter season; if a mild winter they may really be fed upon grass, but if the contrary, they must be fed with prepared food, which increases their size but diminishes their quality.

Pork for roasting is best when about six months old, Berkshire and Hampshire producing the best. The size of a leg of pork should not exceed more than seven pounds, nor much less than six. I do not know why, but of late years pork has lost in a great measure its popularity, and but seldom appears upon a nobleman’s table; it is in season from October to about March.

No. 1. _Sirloin of Beef._ The royal honour which this bold and handsome dish received from the merry monarch, who conferred upon it the honour of knighthood, good Sir Loin, which title it has ever since retained (previously only bearing the cognomen of loin), and most likely will retain until the latest period: as a joint it claims precedence of all others. In roasting, the fillet and fat below keep the upper part moist, and when well roasted, such is the quantity of gravy, that after a few slices have been cut it may be taken from it with a spoon.

Procure a fine square piece of sirloin weighing about twenty pounds (which has been hung at least three weeks in winter, and eight or ten days, if possible, in summer, observing that the older the meat is the longer it will require keeping before cooking, and this remark applies to all kinds of meat, especially to beef and mutton), trim nicely, leaving the fat about an inch and a half in thickness over the fillet, cut a slice slantwise from the flap, which turn under, fixing it with skewers, thus giving the joint an oblong shape; with a sharp knife cut through the sinew (running along the chine-bones) in four or five places, or the meat would contract in roasting; make an incision in the centre of the chine-bones, lengthwise, with a chopper, through which pass a spit an inch wide and half an inch in thickness, bringing it out at the flap, keeping the centre, and avoiding the fillet. When the joint is larger it would be advisable to use a cradle-spit, which, however like the other spit, has its inconveniences, one making a hole through the meat, and the other pressing upon the fat, making it heavy; but in any kind of joint, if not over-roasted, you will never perceive the mark of the spit, as the cavity closes immediately upon the spit leaving it; always choose a spit corresponding to the size of the joint. In a large kitchen, where you require many joints roasting at one time, a cradle-spit is a nuisance, and must be used only where it cannot be avoided. Tie half a sheet of buttered foolscap paper upon each side of the beef, and place to roast, keeping it two feet from a very clear fire, let remain twenty minutes, then rub the top over with a piece of butter placed in the bowl of a large wooden spoon (see page 396), and place the beef back to the distance of three or four feet from the fire, allowing it two hours and a half to three hours to roast; take it from your spit, let remain a few minutes upon a dish until no more fat runs from it, when place it upon the dis

The above description is applied for the Kitchen of the Wealthy, but I must confess I do not object to a small piece of beef for my Kitchen at Home; I should proceed precisely as above, only procuring a piece of not more than eight, ten, or twelve pounds in weight; put a little water in the dripping-pan, place the beef upon a spit papered as before, put it very near the fire for a few minutes, rub over with butter, then put it back at the distance of two feet; let roast, if weighing from ten to twelve pounds, an hour and a half to two hours, depending much upon the fire, of which any person may judge with or without practice; take it up, dress upon your dish, then have the contents of your dripping-pan in a basin, from which extract the whole of the fat, and pour the gravy over the chine-bones, it will be very good, and save the trouble and expense of making gravy; a couple of Yorkshire puddings, of two eggs each, are very excellent cooked under the meat; before I had a smoke-jack in my small kitchen I used to roast very well with a bit of string. For the cottage kitchen, where there is no smoke-jack provided, you may roast very well with a piece of worsted or string, by hooking it to the meat, and then suspending it to a bracket fixed under the mantel-piece, which will enable you to remove it to any distance you think proper from the fire, making a tea-tray, at the distance of three feet from the fire, act as a screen; the bottle-jacks are not bad, but soon get out of repair.

No. 2. _Ribs of Beef._ A piece of from twenty to twenty-five pounds makes a very pretty joint; trim neatly by sawing off the tips of the chine-bones to make it stand flat, saw also about three inches from the tips of the ribs, merely sawing through the bones, which detach from the meat, leaving a flap, which fold under and fix with wooden skewers, not, however, pulling it too tight, or it would cause the skin to crack in roasting, which would produce a very bad effect; roast as directed for the sirloin, from two hours and a half to three hours would be sufficient, unless very thick. For a cold joint the ribs are better than the sirloin, which last should always be eaten hot.

At home I often have a piece of ribs of beef weighing from six to eight pounds, and roast by passing a very thin spit through, and placing it down before a moderate fire; or, if in a small cottage, hang it up with string as for the small sirloin; it would take from an hour and five minutes to an hour and a quarter roasting, being perpendicular you may baste it slightly, as it does not receive much nourishment from its own fat.

No. 3. _Rump of Beef._ This is also a very delicate joint, but can only be had to perfection in the winter months, as it requires hanging from three weeks to a month before it is in readiness to roast to perfection; procure one of from thirty to thirty-five pounds in weight, trim neatly, leaving all the fat, for, taking so long to roast, should it be short of fat it would go to table quite dry; roast it in a cradle-spit as directed for sirloin, but keeping it still further from the fire, and giving it from four hours and a half to five hours roasting, it might also be roasted in paste as directed for haunch of venison (No. 222), or wrap it up in several sheets of paper well buttered, and browned by taking off the paste twenty minutes before removing from the fire.

This bold joint never makes its appearance in my Kitchen at Home, but I have frequently used the piece of fillet attached to it, which weighs from three to five pounds; I leave about an inch of fat upon it, pass a small spit through, and roast from three quarters of an hour to an hour; for gravy I proceed as for the sirloin. Cold potatoes, previously boiled, put under it in the dripping-pan whilst roasting, and turned occasionally, are very excellent.

No. 4. _Baron of Beef._ It is an old saying that two extremes often meet, so with me, I leave my five pounds’ joint roasting and, like Gulliver, make a step towards the empire of the giant. This is, indeed, a colossal joint, which at first sight would put a modest fire out of conceit, my smoke-jack out of order, and, above all, drive my few guests’ appetites from their frugal stomachs; they not being initiated in the grandeur or importance of a civic or aristocratic banquet would consider it a mighty dish of vulgarity. But stay, friends, I would observe grandeur and magnitude are far from being vulgar; to prove that my assertion is correct I have the opinion of ages, for it is a dish almost as old as England herself. I have before stated that Charles the Second gave the title and importance to the sirloin, and I have no doubt the baron owes its origin also to some such cause or great event, which I will attempt to discover for the information of some of my readers who, like myself, at present may be entirely ignorant of its origin, which I feel assured will prove interesting.

A baron of beef is generally cut from a small ox, and includes the two rumps and two sirloins with one of the rib bones on each side; it must be trussed precisely as for a saddle of mutton; pass a spit, which of course must not be too large, through the spinal-marrow-bone, then wrap the beef up in paste as for a haunch of venison (No. 540), only a little thicker, add also more paper, set it three feet from a brisk fire, pouring fat over the paper to prevent its catching fire, twenty minutes afterwards remove the spit two feet farther from the fire, inclose it well with the fire-screen, and roast eight or nine hours, keeping it turned by hand; half an hour before it is done take off the paste and paper and give the beef a fine gold colour, when take up, dress in a dish with gravy under and serve. The ancient style was to serve a representation of St. George and the dragon, cut from vegetables, upon the top, fresh salad also of every description used to be placed around, but the whole was obliged to be removed at the commencement of carving.

Having promised my readers that I would make all possible inquiry relating to the origin of the inviting joint called baron of beef, a careful search into “Hone” and others, has not, I regret to say, been attended with quite a favorable result, and the only information which I can at present obtain is the legendary one that King John, after signing Magna Charta at Runnymede, partook of a repast in the company of his barons, consisting of the saddle and part of the ribs of beef roasted, and that hence arose the saying “baron of beef.” Now this appears very much like the traveller’s tale that had but one point in its favour, namely, that no one present could possibly contradict it.

No. 5. _Round of Beef._ “Here,” says John Bull, with a good-humoured countenance (standing near a table upon which was a round of beef being prepared for dressing, clapping his hands upon his knees, and bending with no little difficulty his colossal stomach), “do you know, my excellent friend,” says he to me, “I fear you cannot cook that glorious dish to perfection, for I have not yet forgotten your seven hours’ dressing of a leg of mutton (p. 193), so if you are not above receiving a lesson I will give you one which will enable you to dress this all-important dish to perfection; for I prize it as I do my own roast beef of old England, and you must be aware that after the centuries of practice I have had that I must understand some little about it. Well, in the first place, the quality of the meat has a good deal to do with it, of which you have given a fair description, I therefore pass it over; but to proceed: it must be cut pretty freely from the knuckle and placed in a brine-tub, cover well with salt, rub it well in, leave it until the next day, when again rub it with the salt and brine created by the gravy from the meat, rubbing well every other day until it has remained a fortnight, that is, if of a good size, weighing from thirty to thirty-five pounds, if larger or smaller, more or less time, which must be left to your own good judgment, then take it out of the pickle, let drain twenty minutes, take out and form it of a good shape, folding the fat round, which fix with skewers, tying it round with a few yards of very wide tape, tie it up in a thin cloth, and place it in a large stock-pot with plenty of cold water, set upon a good fire and when beginning to boil draw it to the corner, where let simmer five hours, but two hours before it is done put in eight fine carrots, scraped and cut into six or eight pieces, twelve turnips (peeled), and two suet puddings, weighing from two and a half to three pounds each, these articles would, perhaps, cause the water to c

After receiving the above useful lesson, and being desirous of improving my profession in all its branches, I remembered that amongst the number of joints boiled to serve cold for large civic, agricultural, or benevolent anniversary dinners, the round of beef was the most prominent, and having seen it standing in dishes to get cold, with the dish filled with the gravy that runs from it, particularly if a little overdone, caused me to hit upon the following expedient to prevent the meat losing so much of its succulence: fill two large tubs with cold water, into which throw a few pounds of rough ice, and when the round is done throw it, cloth and all, into one of the tubs of ice water, let remain one minute, when take out and put it into the other tub, fill the first tub again with water, and continue the above process for about twenty minutes, then set it upon a dish, leaving the cloth on until the next day, or until quite cold; when opened the fat will be as white as possible, besides having saved the whole of the gravy. If no ice, spring water will answer the same purpose, but will require to be more frequently changed; the same mode would be equally successful with the aitch-bone.

The above is a joint which I have always considered too large for my Kitchen at Home, but the aitch-bone or brisket is easily managed.

No. 6. _Aitch-bone of Beef._ A good-sized one would weigh from fifteen to twenty pounds. Pickle it precisely as directed in the last, but one week would be sufficient, boil nearly three hours, and serve with the vegetables round as before, and a suet pudding separate; if for cold do not take the tape from it until cold, trim the top, run a silver skewer in at the extremity, and serve garnished with sprigs of very green fresh parsley.

No. 7. _Brisket of Beef._ The whole brisket would require pickling for a week, it must not be too fat; this being a long awkward joint may be cut in two, and served upon separate occasions, boil about five hours and serve as for the last two, with the vegetables around it; when upon table it must be cut into thin slices, fat and lean in fair proportions. The remains of a brisket of beef are excellent when cold.

No. 8. _Brisket of Beef à la Garrick._ This dish will, I am sure, be as popular with the English public as the celebrated tragedian and comedian whose name I have borrowed, even if he were now alive. Procure a nice brisket of beef with as little fat as possible attached, if too much cut a little of it off, and detach the whole of the bones from it, then make a pickle with twenty pounds of salt, three quarters of a pound of saltpetre, four cakes of sal prunella, two pounds of moist sugar, and two cloves of garlic, with which rub the meat well, and leave it rather more than a week, rubbing and turning it over every day; then drain and cut it into two equal parts, place one upon the other, mixing the fat and lean well, tie them together, and afterwards in a clean cloth, put into a large stewpan or stock-pot containing six gallons of water, and let simmer for eight hours, (but to ascertain correctly if done run a trussing-needle into it, if tender it is quite done;), then take it out and let it remain ten minutes upon a dish to drain, have ready a large tin dish-cover, eighteen inches long, twelve wide, and deep in proportion, place it upon a trivet and put the beef into it, opening the cloth to lie smoothly in the cover, and with a fork arranging the meat, fat and lean together, all over the bottom; you have a common piece of board half an inch in thickness made to fit into the cover, place it upon the meat with half a hundred weight upon it, and let remain in a cold place until the next morning, then take off the weight and the board, pull the cloth gently at each angle, and when loose turn it over upon your dish, take the cloth off gently, garnish with sprigs of parsley, fresh watercresses, and small radishes (if in season), cut in thin strips crosswise. Nothing could be nicer than this for a breakfast or luncheon, it will keep good a fortnight in winter, and as long as a week in the summer by putting it in a cold place. I have frequently made some in my Kitchen at H

No. 9. _Haunch of Mutton._ The haunch is the most important joint from the sheep, it requires but little trimming, and to be hung about three weeks (season permitting). Saw about three inches from the knuckle, detach all the skin from the loin, and put it upon a spit, commencing running the spit in at the knuckle and bringing it out at the flap, avoiding the fillet of the loin (a cradle spit may be used for this joint,) set it down at the distance of two feet from a good solid fire, and if weighing about twenty pounds it requires two hours and a half roasting, ten minutes after it is down rub it over with butter, which you have fixed in the bowl of a wooden spoon, it will form a kind of froth over it, then place it back three feet from the fire, where let it continue until done, if approved of, shake over a little flour from a flour-dredge a quarter of an hour before taking it up, when done dress upon your dish with a paper frill upon the knuckle and about half a pint of gravy under. If the meat is rather fat the butter may be omitted.

No. 10. _Soyer’s Saddle-back of Mutton._ This is an entirely new joint which I have introduced in this present month, April 1846. I have served it but three times in our coffee-room, where it gave the greatest satisfaction to those who had partaken of it, having dined from fifteen to eighteen each, whilst two saddles, which would weigh six or eight pounds more, would not dine more than seven or eight if badly carved, or more than ten if properly carved in the usual manner. The cut is a correct representation of the appearance of the new joint, which serves to indicate the mode of carving. It is composed of the two loins and two necks of a sheep trimmed into the form of a double saddle, without interfering in the least with the legs and shoulders, which would cause a serious loss to the butcher.

Trim and dispose the saddle-back as follows: saw the centre bone of the back as far as the saddle, dividing it but not cutting the meat or making a hole through, then with a small saw divide each joint, so as to admit of the necks being cut into chops in carving, when well separated take a piece of a good length from the ends of the rib bones, trim the flaps, turn them under, fixing them with skewers and string, giving the proper shape as the design represents, pull the skin from the whole back, melt two ounces of butter, which rub over with a paste brush to give a good appearance and let remain five or six days previous to roasting, weather permitting. To roast, pass a long saddle-of-mutton spit through the spinal-marrow-bone, bringing it out at the ends of the necks, fix it to a larger spit, and place at a good distance from a moderate fire for nearly three hours; avoid basting, but a quarter of an hour before taking up shake a little flour mixed with some finely-ground rice over, which is very good for a little change. This joint looks very noble, and does not appear too large when roasted. For a small dinner a saddleback of Welsh mutton or lamb will make a very fine remove. To carve, commence by passing your knife down the back where nothing but the meat and skin holds it together, and from thence crosswise to the flap, serving a cutlet and a slice between to each person, continuing the same way through the saddle; you will thus carve the meat according to the grain, and produce fresh hot gravy for each person as you proceed carving. Should any remain, it is fit either to be sent cold to table or dressed otherwise advantageously.

No. 11. _Saddle of Mutton._ Procure a fine saddle of mutton, about fourteen pounds in weight, that has been kept some time, take off the skin with a knife, and skewer the flaps under, run a lark-spit through the spinal marrow-bone, which spit affix to a larger one, and place down to roast as directed for the saddle-back; it will require about an hour and three quarters roasting, and must be carved as in the last.

No. 12. _Leg of Mutton._ A leg weighing eight pounds would take about an hour and a half roasting; run the spit in under the thigh-bone and bring it out at the knuckle, roast it as described for the haunch, and send to table with a frill upon the knuckle.

When I have a leg of mutton to roast in my kitchen I make a small incision at the knuckle two or three days before roasting, in which I put two or three cloves of garlic, it will give the mutton a fine and peculiar flavour, not at all resembling the strong, and to some objectionable, flavour of garlic. I frequently serve it with haricot beans under it, dressed as directed (No. 1094).

No. 13. _Shoulder of Mutton_ of seven or eight pounds weight will require about one hour roasting; run the spit in at the flap and bring it out at the knuckle, observe the same directions as before, not basting, but merely rubbing it over with the butter.

No. 14. _Loin of Mutton._ A loin weighing six pounds would require an hour to roast; take off all the skin with a knife, and separate the joints with a chopper, not cutting through the fillet; run a lark-spit through from one extremity to the other and affix it to a larger spit, observe the same directions in roasting as for the haunch. This is a very favorite dish of mine at home, where I in general joint it with a meat-saw so as to enable me to carve it into thin slanting chops, which look so much more inviting in the plate than those huge pieces which are generally carved.

No. 15. _Neck of Mutton._ This I call a very recherché little joint when well kept; it must be nicely trimmed, sawing through the bones at the tips of the ribs, which detach from the meat, folding the flap over; saw off the chine-bone, and with a knife detach the remainder of the bone from the fillet, detach the skin from the upper part, fix the flap under with a couple of skewers, run a long flat iron skewer through the centre, from one extremity to the other, fix it to a larger spit, roast (if weighing five pounds) nearly three quarters of an hour, observing the same directions as before, carve it crosswise, cutting it in cotelettes, one of which, with a bone, serve to each guest.

No. 16. _Boiled Leg of Mutton._ Cut the knuckle from a leg of mutton which has been hung some time, put into an oval braising-pan well covered with cold water, in which you have put two ounces of salt, place it upon a sharp fire until boiling, when skim well, and place it upon the corner of the fire to simmer about two hours, that is, if the leg does not exceed more than nine pounds in weight; about half an hour before it is done add a dozen turnips, peeled and cut into quarters, when done take it up, dress upon a dish with the turnips around, place a frill upon the knuckle, pour nearly half a pint of the liquor it was boiled in over, and serve with caper sauce (No. 67) in a boat. Observe, in boiling any description of meat, fast boiling would not cook it any quicker, but cause it to eat very hard and bad.

At home I have tried to cook them by placing them in the water whilst boiling, and when again beginning to boil drawing it to the corner of the fire; it certainly saves a little time, but does not eat so tender as when put into cold water. I generally there mash turnips and serve them separately (I do not like them plain and watery, although I consider they must be much more wholesome). Place the turnips when boiled into a stewpan, add half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, two ounces of butter with which you have mixed half a tablespoonful of flour, and four tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, mix all well together over the fire with a wooden spoon. For caper sauce I mix a tablespoonful of flour with an ounce of butter and put it in a smallish stewpan, add half a pint of the liquor the mutton was boiled in, stir over the fire until upon the point of boiling, when add a quarter of a tablespoonful of salt, quarter that quantity of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and a good spoonful of drained pickled capers; then add another ounce of butter, shake round over the fire, and when melted it is finished. I sometimes also add a spoonful of liaison, it gives it a rich colour.

No. 17. _Shoulder of Mutton (boiled)_. Choose a very tender one, weighing about seven pounds, cut off the knuckle, and boil it as above; one hour and a half would be sufficient.

WELSH MUTTON.--No. 18. _Saddle-back of Welsh Mutton._ Trim and truss it as South Down mutton, it will take one hour less roasting; you may butter twice over.

No. 19. _Haunch._ If weighing twelve pounds roast it an hour and a half as directed (in proportion) for the haunch of mutton, but if deficient of fat rub it over with butter three or four times instead of once.

No. 20. _Saddle._ If weighing eight pounds roast it an hour and a quarter.

No. 21. _Leg._ If weighing five pounds roast it an hour.

No. 22. _Loin._ If weighing four pounds roast three quarters of an hour.

No. 23. _Neck._ If weighing three pounds roast it half an hour.

No. 24. _Shoulder._ If weighing four pounds roast it three quarters of an hour. Loin and neck about the same time.

No. 25. _Lamb_ is divided into but three principal joints, being the fore-quarter, haunch, and saddle, two joints may be made of each by separating the shoulder from the ribs, the leg from the loin, or dividing the saddle, but they are usually roasted together.

To trim the fore-quarter saw off the chine-bone, and break the rib-bones down the centre, pass two iron skewers from the breast to the back, and a lark-spit through lengthwise, fix it upon a larger spit, cover a sheet of buttered paper over the top, and roast an hour and a quarter before a good fire, rubbing butter over it, it would be a light gold colour; should the shoulder have been taken off it will only require three quarters of an hour to roast, serve in a dish with a little gravy under, and mint sauce in a boat.

The haunch must be trimmed by cutting off the shank-bone, place it upon a small spit by running the spit in at the extremity of the loin, passing over the thigh-bone, and bringing it out at the knuckle, which tie to the spit with a piece of string; place a sheet of buttered paper over, and roast an hour and three-quarters before a solid fire; place a frill upon the knuckle, and serve as before. The leg only would require one hour roasting.

For the saddle, skewer the flaps underneath, curling each one round, run a lark-spit through the spinal marrow-bone, and fix it to a larger spit; place a sheet of buttered paper over, and roast an hour and a half before a good fire, dress upon your dish and serve as for the fore-quarter.

No. 26. _Fillet of Veal._ Choose it of the best quality, as described at the commencement of this series. Procure a leg, saw off the knuckle, take out the bone in the centre of the fillet, and fill up the cavity with some stuffing made as directed (No. 127), fold the udder and flap round, which fix with three skewers; place half a sheet of buttered foolscap paper top and bottom, which tie over and over with plenty of string, run a spit through, fixing the fillet with a hold-fast, set down to roast, placing it rather close to the fire ten minutes, rub well over with butter, then place it at least two feet and a half from the fire, to roast very slowly, giving it a fine gold colour; a fillet weighing sixteen pounds would require three hours roasting, when done, take it up, detach all the string and paper, trim the top and set it upon your dish; have a pint of melted butter in a stewpan upon the fire, to which, when boiling, add four spoonfuls of Harvey sauce, and two of mushroom catsup, mix well, and pour round the fillet; have also boiled nicely an ox-tongue, which skin and trim, dress upon a dish surrounded with greens or cabbage nicely boiled, and serve as an accompaniment to the fillet.

In my small kitchen I, however, content myself with a nice piece of streaked bacon, of about two pounds in weight, boiled and served surrounded with greens or turnip-tops if in season. For the different modes of dressing the remainder, see the Entrées, Kitchen at Home.

No. 27. _Loin of Veal._ Procure one with plenty of fat and a nice kidney in it, cut off the chump, take away the rib-bone at the other extremity, and fasten the flap over the kidney with a skewer, run a spit through lengthwise (not too thick a one), commencing at the thickest end, and fixing it at the other extremity with a hold-fast, tie it up in a sheet of oiled paper; if weighing fourteen pounds it will require two hours and a quarter to roast, serve with sauce and tongue, or bacon, as in the last, upon a separate dish. At home I usually content myself with the chump, as taken from the loin, either roasting or boiling it, should it weigh four pounds it would require an hour roasting, or an hour and a quarter boiling; if roasted, serve with bacon and the same sauce as for the fillet, but if boiled I make half the quantity of sauce as for boiled leg of mutton, but omitting the capers, and adding a spoonful of roughly-chopped, fresh, green parsley. Dress the remains the second day as directed in the Entrées, Kitchen at Home.

No. 28. _Breast of Veal._ Procure a nice breast of veal, which trim as directed (No. 455), stuff the interior with a long roll of stuffing (No. 127), roll the flaps over and sew it up with a trussing-needle and string, place it upon a spit, running it through lengthwise, and roast one hour and a quarter as directed for the loin, serve with the same sauce, and bacon and greens separate. The breast of veal stewed is also good, but for the details I must refer to the Removes in the first part of this work. At home I stew them, and add a few heads of celery with the stock it is stewing in, which I afterwards dress round the veal, and make a little white sauce similar to No. 7, with some of the liquor it was stewed in, or thicken the sauce with a little butter and flour, and add a gill of milk.

No. 29. _Shoulder of Veal._ A shoulder weighing fourteen pounds would require two hours and a half to roast, and three hours to boil, serve with a parsley and butter sauce if boiled, or if roasted, with sauce as for the fillet; bacon and greens must be served with it separate, whichever way it is dressed.

Should you boil the shoulder add a few vegetables, and you may reduce the stock it was boiled in to a glaze (by continual boiling), which will be very serviceable in dressing the remains upon following days; by boiling a calf’s foot with the shoulder you would produce a much greater quantity of glaze.

No. 30. _Neck of Veal_ is usually served as the shoulder, either roasted or stewed, with vegetables, but I have described a number of methods of dressing it in the Removes of the first department of this work.

No. 31. _Knuckle of Veal_ is a very favorite dish of mine; I procure two of them, which I saw into three pieces each, and put into a stewpan with a piece of streaked bacon two pounds in weight, four onions, a carrot, two turnips, and six peppercorns, place over the fire, and when boiling add a little salt, skim well, and place at the corner to simmer gently for two hours, take up, dress them in your dish surrounded with the vegetables and bacon, and serve with parsley and butter over; very good soup may be made from the stock it was boiled in if required, or if not, into glaze, which put by until wanted.

No. 32. _Leg of Pork._ Choose the pork as described at the commencement of this series, if a leg, one weighing about seven pounds, cut an incision in the knuckle near the thigh, into which put a quantity of sage and onions, previously passed in butter, sew the incision up with packthread, score the rind of the pork in lines across, half an inch apart, place upon a spit, running it in just under the rind, and bringing it out at the knuckle. If stuffed the day previous to roasting it would improve its flavour; roast, if weighing seven pounds, about two hours and a half, and serve with apple sauce in a boat.

I often roast a small leg of pork at home as directed above, and make apple sauce thus: peel and slice six nice apples, which put into a stewpan, with a tablespoonful of currants well washed and picked, and one of brown sugar, a little of the rind of a lemon chopped very fine, six spoonfuls of water, and a very small piece of cinnamon, boil until in purée, then stir in a handful of bread-crumbs, and serve hot. When, however, I am in a great hurry I merely put apples, water, sugar, and a little rind of lemon. Other joints of pork are roasted in the same manner, but do not require stuffing, a loin weighing six pounds requiring two hours and a quarter to roast; a neck of the same size will take about the same time, as will the spare-ribs, which is nothing but the necks of larger pork with the blade-bone cut out and the fat taken off.

No. 33. _Salt Pork._ Pork is salted in the same manner as described for beef, omitting the saltpetre, but of course not requiring so long a time; a leg weighing seven pounds would be well salted in a week, as also would a hand and spring weighing about ten pounds, and either would require two hours boiling, putting them in a stewpan with cold water, and serving with carrots and greens upon a separate dish. With the leg it is also customary to serve a pease pudding made thus: tie about a pint of split peas loosely in a pudding-cloth, throw them into boiling water to stew until tender, then take them up, turn from the cloth upon the back of a hair sieve, through which force them with a wooden spoon, put them into a basin, add two ounces of butter, season with pepper and salt, mix well with six whole eggs, tie up tightly in a pudding-cloth, boil an hour and serve very hot.

A pig’s head is also excellent pickled. Divide the head in two, take out the brains and detach the jaw-bones, pickle it twelve days, rubbing it every day, (the brine in which you have pickled one joint, with the addition of more salt, would pickle several and keep good for upwards of a month;) when ready, boil it nearly three hours, and serve with greens round as an accompaniment to veal or poultry. To pickle it red, rub it well with twelve pounds of salt, a quarter of a pound of saltpetre, two cakes of sal prunella, and half a pound of coarse sugar, rub it every day, allowing it to remain fifteen days in pickle, after which it maybe hung, and dried or smoked previously to dressing.

MADE DISHES THAT CAN BE EASILY PREPARED AT A MODERATE EXPENSE IN MY KITCHEN AT HOME.

Preaching economy which has been practised from age to age in all domestic works is not here my intention, as my readers must quickly perceive that the simplicity of my receipts excludes the seal of extravagance, having simplified even dishes of some importance, which daily give and have given the greatest satisfaction at the Reform Club.

The regular courses of a cuisine bourgeoise, or domestic cookery, will be found extremely easy to execute in my Kitchen at Home, and numbers of them done to perfection in the Kitchen (or sanctorum) of a Bachelor, as well as in the small Cottage Kitchen.

No. 34. _French Pot-au-feu._ Out of this earthen pot comes the favorite soup and bouilli, which have been everlastingly famed as having been the support of several generations of all classes of society in France; from the opulent to the poorest individuals, all pay tribute to its excellence and worth. In fact this soup and bouilli are to the French what the roast beef and plum-pudding are on a Sunday to the English. No dinner in France is served without soup, and no good soup is supposed to be made without the pot-au-feu. Generally every quarter of a century makes a total alteration in fashions and politics, need I say also in cookery, which must be approximated not only to the fashion but more strongly so to the political world, humbly bending its indispensable services to the whims and wishes of crowned heads, which invariably lead the multitude; for example, the bills of fare of the sumptuous dinners which used to grace the tables of Louis the Fourteenth, Sixteenth, and Eighteenth, of France, were all very different to each other, and none of them were ever copied to grace the sumptuous and luxurious tables of the Empire; even the very features of them having undergone an entire change in our own days; every culinary invention taking its title and origin from some celebrated personage or extraordinary event, every innovation in cookery, like a change in fashion, causing us to forget those dishes which they have superseded; I have no doubt but that, if some correct historian could collect the bills of fare of dinners from various centuries and nations which crowned heads have partaken of, he might write a very interesting volume under the title of History of Cookery, in which we should be able closely to trace the original history of different countries.[23] Nothing can stamp the anniversary of any great event so well as a sumptuous banquet: peace, war, politics, and even religion, have always been the cause of extraordinary and sometimes monstrous gastronomic mee

By a friendly introduction to La Mère Binard, I, with a great deal of supplication, obtained from her the following valuable receipt, having been obliged first to listen to the constant repetition of the above anecdote before she could explain it to me.--“I generally choose,” says she, “a bit of the _gite à la noix_, part of the aitch-bone, a piece of the rump, or a slice from the thickest part of the leg, weighing from four to five pounds, with sufficient fat attached, or adding a small piece; then I put it into the earthen pan, and fill with cold water till within two inches of the rim, being about four quarts; then I set it by my wood fire until beginning to get hot, when a thin scum will arise by degrees, which I carefully take off and throw away; then I add half a pound of beef liver, and a tablespoonful and a half of salt, it will produce more scum, which also carefully remove; have ready prepared, well washed and clean, two middling-sized carrots cut in halves, then in four, two small pieces of parsnip, four turnips, two onions, with two cloves stuck in each, eight young leeks, or two old ones, a head of celery cut into pieces three inches in length, tie the leeks and celery into a bunch, and put altogether into the _pot-au-feu_, set it alone nearer the fire until it commences boiling, skim again, draw it a little farther to the corner of the fire, put a wooden skimmer across the pot, upon which rest the lid to prevent its boiling fast, (which would entirely spoil the soup, the meat becoming very hard and the soup thick and muddy).” “You quite astonish me, Mrs. Binard,” said I. “Oh,” says she, “I have had so many years of experience, and I know it to be the case.” “Yes,” said I, “my dear lady, I do not in the least doubt your correctness.” “Well, then, one hour afterwards I add a little cold water to keep it to the same quantity, put in a burnt onion to give it a colour, and let simmer four hours, sometimes five, depending if the meat is cut very thick; then

RECEIPT. Put in the _pot-au-feu_ six pounds of beef, four quarts of water, set near the fire; skim, when nearly boiling add a spoonful and a half of salt, half a pound of liver, two carrots, four turnips, eight young or two old leeks, one head of celery, two onions and one burnt, with a clove in each, and a piece of parsnip; skim again and let simmer four or five hours, adding a little cold water now and then; take off part of the fat, put slices of bread into the tureen, lay half the vegetables over, and half the broth, and serve the meat separate with the vegetables around. Since I have been in England I have broken my precious earthen pot; I have, however, made some very good soups at home in a black saucepan or stewpan, but must admit not quite so delicate and perfect as in the identical _pot de terre_.

SOUPS.--No. 35. _Julienne Soup._ Put about six pounds of knuckle of veal in a stewpan cut in four pieces, with about half a pound of streaked bacon; put a piece of butter at the bottom of the stewpan, and about half a pint of water, place it over a sharp fire, moving it round occasionally with a wooden spoon until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze, when add about a gallon of water, two ounces of salt, three onions (with two cloves in each), two turnips, one carrot, a head of celery, leek, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; when boiling put in two burnt onions (see _Pot-au-feu_) to colour it, and stand it at the corner of the fire to simmer for two hours, keeping it well skimmed, then pass the broth through a hair sieve into a stewpan; you have previously cut two middling-sized carrots, two turnips, an onion, a leek, and a little celery into very thin strips an inch long; put them in another stewpan with two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; place it upon a sharp fire, tossing them over occasionally until well fried and looking transparent, then put them into the broth with the half a young cos lettuce, and a little tarragon and chervil, place it at the corner of your fire, and when it boils skim off all the butter: let it simmer until the vegetables are perfectly tender, when pour it into your tureen; serve the veal and piece of bacon upon the dish with melted butter and chopped parsley over. Beef may also be used for the above, and the vegetables cut in any of the shapes directed for the soups in the other department of this work; if you only require a smaller quantity, take only three pounds, or diminish all in proportion.

No. 36. _Mutton Broth._ Any description of trimmings of mutton may be used for broth, but the scrag end of the neck is usually chosen. Put about two scrags into a stewpan (having previously jointed the bone), with three onions (a couple of cloves stuck in each), three turnips, one carrot, and a bunch containing a leek, a head of celery, and a few sprigs of thyme and parsley, fill up the stewpan with rather more than a gallon of water; when boiling skim it, and place it at the corner of the stove, where let it simmer for three hours, then cut a small carrot, two turnips, an onion, and a piece of leek and celery into very small square pieces, put them into a stewpan with a wineglassful of pearl barley, pass the broth through a hair sieve over them, and boil at the corner of the fire until the barley is tender, when it is ready to serve; the meat may be trimmed into neat pieces, and served in the broth, or separately with melted butter and parsley, or onion sauce.

No. 37. _Irish Mutton Broth._ This broth is made similar to the last, adding ten or twelve mealy potatoes cut in large dice, which by boiling to a purée thickens the broth; just before serving throw in twenty heads of parsley, at the same time put in a few flowers of marigolds, which really give a pleasing flavour; it is then ready to serve.

At home I make clear soup of the trimmings of any meat, either beef, veal, mutton, or lamb, or the trimmings of two or three different sorts of meat, in the same manner as directed for Julienne soup.

No. 38. _A very simple Receipt for the Scotch Cock-a-Leeky._ This is a very favorite national soup with the Scotch, which by rights ought to have been the pride of Welsh cookery, ranking as high in the estimation of millions as their celebrated and generally appreciated rarebit, commonly called a Welsh rabbit.

Take six or eight pounds of leg of beef (depending upon the quantity you want to make), with which make a stock as directed for Julienne soup, letting simmer two hours, and keeping it well skimmed; in the mean time trim two or three bunches of fine winter leeks, cutting off the roots and part of the head, then split each in halves lengthwise, and each half in three, wash well in two or three waters, pass the stock through a sieve into another stewpan, into which put the leeks, with a fowl trussed as for boiling, let simmer very gently at the corner of the fire for three hours, keeping it well skimmed, season a little if required, and half an hour before serving add two dozen French plums, without breaking them; when ready to serve, take out the fowl, which cut into neat pieces, place in a large tureen, and pour the leeks and broth over, the leeks being then partly in purée; if too thick, however, add a drop more broth or water. Should the leeks happen to be old and strong, it would be better to blanch them five minutes in a gallon of boiling water previously to putting them with the stock. Although an old cock is usually procured in Scotland for the above purpose, I prefer a young one, but should an old one be most handy, stew it a short time in the stock before passing it.

No. 39. _Ox-tail Soup._ Cut up two ox-tails, separating them at the joint, put a small piece of butter at the bottom of a stewpan, then put in the ox-tails, with a carrot, turnip, three onions, head of celery, one leek, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, add half a pint of water and twelve grains of whole pepper, set over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a thickish brown glaze; then add a quarter of a pound of flour, stir it well in, and fill up the stewpan with three quarts of water, add a tablespoonful of salt, stir occasionally until boiling, when set it upon the corner of the stove, skim well, and let simmer until the tails are stewed very tender, the flesh coming easily from the bone; take them out immediately and put them into your tureen; pass the soup, which must not be too thick, through a hair sieve over them, add a head of celery previously cut small and blanched in a little stock, and serve.

Ox-tail soup may also be made clear by omitting the flour, and serving vegetables in it as directed in Julienne soup (No. 35), but cut in any other shape.

No. 40. _Ox-cheek Soup._ Blanch and wash well two ox-cheeks, cut off the beard, take away all the bone, which chop up, and cut the flesh into middling-sized pieces, leaving the cheek part whole, put altogether into a stewpan, with four quarts of water, a little salt, ten peppercorns, two carrots, two turnips, one leek, one head of celery, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, also a burnt onion to colour it; let stew at the corner of the fire six hours, keeping well skimmed, then take out the fleshy part of the cheek and pass the broth through a hair sieve into another stewpan, mix half a pound of flour with a pint of cold broth, which pour into it and stir over the fire until boiling, place it at the corner, let simmer till tender (adding two heads of celery cut very fine, and a glass of sherry); when the celery is tender, cut the meat in small square slices, keep them warm, and when the soup is ready pour over and serve. Sheep’s or lambs’ heads also make very good soup by following the above receipt, and adding two pounds of veal, mutton, or beef to the stock, two heads would be sufficient, and they would not require so long to stew.

No. 41. _New Mock Turtle Soup._ Procure half a calf’s head (scalded, not skinned), bone it, then cut up a knuckle of veal, which put into a stewpan, with half a pound of lean ham, two ounces of butter, one of salt, at the bottom, a carrot, one turnip, three onions, a head of celery, a leek, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, marjoram, basil, and a bay-leaf, with nearly half a pint of water; move round occasionally upon the fire until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze; then add six quarts of water, and put in the half head, let simmer at the corner of the fire for two hours and a half, or till the head is perfectly tender, when take it up and press it between two dishes, pass the stock through a hair sieve into a basin; then in another stewpan have a quarter of a pound of butter, with a sprig of thyme, basil, marjoram, and a bay-leaf, let the butter get quite hot; then add six ounces of flour to form a roux, stir over a sharp fire a few minutes, keeping it quite white, stand it off the fire to cool, then add the stock, boil up, skim, and pass it through a hair sieve into another stewpan, cut the head into pieces an inch square, not too thick, and put them into the soup, which season with a little cayenne pepper; when the pieces are hot, add a gill of cream, and pour it into your tureen. The above quantity will make several tureens of soup, and will keep good several days.

No. 42. _Brown Mock Turtle Soup._ Proceed the same as in the last article, only colouring the stock by drawing it down to a brown glaze, or with a couple of burnt onions, and serving with a glass of port wine in it, or two of sherry, omitting the cream.

No. 43. _Mulligatawny Soup._ Cut up a knuckle of veal, which put in a stewpan with a piece of butter, half a pound of lean ham, a carrot, one turnip, three onions, six apples, one head of celery, one leek, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, a blade of mace, six cloves, and half a pint of water; set the stewpan over a sharp fire, move the meat round occasionally, let remain until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a brownish glaze; then add two or three tablespoonfuls of currie powder, one of currie paste, if handy, and half a pound of flour, stir well in, and fill up with a gallon of water, add a spoonful of salt, half ditto of sugar, and a quarter ditto of pepper, let boil up; then place it at the corner of the stove, where let it simmer two hours and a half, then pass it through a hair sieve into the tureen; trim some of the pieces of veal, which serve in it, and some plain boiled rice separate; ox-tails or pieces of rabbits, chickens, &c., left from a previous dinner may be served in it instead of the veal; if too thick add a drop of broth or water.

No. 44. _Giblet Soup._ Clean two sets of giblets and soak for two hours, cut them into equal sizes and put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, four pounds of veal or beef, half a pound of ham, a carrot, turnip, three onions, a head of celery, leek, two ounces of salt, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; place the stewpan over a sharp fire, stirring the meat round occasionally, when the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a light glaze add half a pound of flour, stir well in, and fill up with a gallon of water, add two burnt onions to colour it; when boiling set at the corner of the stove, let simmer, skim well, and when the giblets are tender take them out, put them in your tureen, pass the soup through a hair sieve over, and serve; twenty button onions, or any small sharp vegetable, is very good in it, also a glass of port wine.

No. 45. _Green Pea Soup._ Put two quarts of green peas into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, quarter of a pound of lean ham cut in dice, two onions in slices, and a few sprigs of parsley; add a quart of cold water, and with the hand rub all well together, then pour off the water, cover the stewpan close and stand it upon a sharp fire, tossing or stirring them round occasionally; when very tender add two or three tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well in, mashing the peas with your spoon against the sides of the stewpan, add three quarts of broth, made as for Julienne soup (No. 35), or broth from the pot-au-feu (No. 34), and a tablespoonful of sugar, with a little pepper and salt if required, boil all well together five minutes; then rub it through a tammie or hair sieve, put it into another stewpan with half a pint of boiling milk, boil and skim, then pour it into your tureen, and serve with small croutons of fried bread-crumbs. It must not be served too thick.

No. 46. _Winter Pea Soup._ Wash a quart of split peas, which put into a stewpan with half a pound of streaked bacon, two onions in slices, two pounds of veal or beef cut into small pieces, and a little parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, previously passed in butter in the same stewpan; cover with a gallon of water, add a little salt and sugar, place it upon the fire; when boiling stand it at the side until the peas are boiled to a purée, and the water has reduced to half, then take out the meat, place it in the tureen, keep it hot, and rub the soup through a hair sieve or tammie, put it into another stewpan, and when boiling pour over the meat and serve. The bacon is good cold, the meat may also be put into the tureen if approved of.

No. 47. _Purée, or Vegetable Soup._ Peel and cut up very fine three onions, three turnips, one carrot, and four potatoes, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean ham, and a bunch of parsley, pass them ten minutes over a sharp fire; then add a good spoonful of flour, mix well in, moisten with two quarts of broth (prepared as for Julienne soup, No. 35), and a pint of boiling milk, boil up, keeping it stirred, season with a little salt and sugar, and rub through a hair sieve or tammie, put it into another stewpan, boil again, skim, and serve with croutons of fried bread in it.

No. 48. _Soup Maigre._ Cut two onions into very small dice and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, fry them a short time, but not to change colour; have three or four handfuls of well-washed sorrel, cut it into ribands, and put it into the stewpan with the onions, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, then a pint of milk and a pint of water, boil all together ten minutes, season with a little sugar and salt, and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs, mixed with a gill of cream, stir it in quickly, do not let it boil afterwards; put the crust of a French roll cut in strips into your tureen, pour the soup over, and serve.

No. 49. _Onion Soup Maigre._ Peel and cut ten large onions into small dice, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, place them over the fire, fry them well; then add three tablespoonfuls of flour, which mix well, and rather better than a quart of water, boil till the onions are quite tender, season with a little salt and sugar, finish with a liaison, and serve as in the last; grated cheese is an improvement in it.

No. 50. _Vermicelli Soup._ Make your stock as for Julienne soup (No. 35), when passed put it into another stewpan with two ounces of vermicelli, boil it a quarter of an hour, then pour it into your tureen, and serve.

Semolina or tapioca soup is made the same, using either instead of vermicelli. For rice soup, see No. 197, Kitchen of the Wealthy.

No. 51. _Macaroni Soup._ (See No. 198, and Italian Paste, No. 194, Kitchen of the Wealthy.)

FISH.--No. 52. _Turbot._ For the methods of cleaning fish, see the other department of this work. In My Kitchen at Home I should never think of cooking too large a turbot, but choose a middle-sized one which, generally speaking, is the best; cut an incision in the back, rub it well with a good handful of salt, then with the juice of a lemon, set it in a turbot kettle well covered with cold water, in which you have put a good handful of salt, place over the fire, and as soon as the water boils put it at the side; if a turbot of ten pounds it will take an hour after it has boiled, if it should be allowed to more than simmer it will be very unsightly; take out of the water, leave a minute upon your drainer, serve upon a napkin garnished with fresh parsley, and lobster sauce in a boat; for sauce (see No. 68), or shrimp sauce (No. 73).

No. 53. _Turbot, the new French Fashion._ Boil your turbot as in the last but dress it upon a dish without a napkin, sauce over with a thickish melted butter (having placed a border of well-boiled small potatoes round), sprinkle a few capers over and serve.

No. 54. _Turbot à la Crême_ is done with the remains of a turbot from a previous dinner; detach the flesh from the bone, and warm in salt and water, make cream sauce as page 99, only omit a third of the butter.

_Brills_ are cooked in the same manner as turbots, but being smaller do not require so long boiling; but in boiling any description of fish, never take it up until it leaves the bone with facility, which try by placing the point of a knife between the flesh and the bone, if done the flesh will detach immediately.

No. 55. _John Dorée, Boulogne fashion._ John Dorées, though not very handsome, are very delicate eating; choose them from four to six pounds in weight, and boil as directed for turbot; one of the above size would require about three quarters of an hour; if any remain, dress like turbot, or with caper sauce, &c.

No. 56. _Salmon, plain boiled._ I prefer always dressing this fish in slices from an inch or two inches in thickness, boiling it in plenty of salt and water about half an hour; the whole fish may be boiled, or the head and shoulders of a large fish, but they require longer boiling. Salmon eats firmer, by not being put into the water until boiling; dress the fish upon a napkin and serve with lobster sauce (page 30), shrimp do., or plain melted butter in a boat, with fresh sprigs of parsley boiled a few minutes in it. A salmon weighing ten pounds will require an hour and a half boiling; a head and shoulders weighing six pounds, one hour. The remains may be dressed à la crême, as directed for the turbot (No. 54).

No. 57. _Salmon Sauce Matelote._ Cook three good slices of salmon as directed in the last, or a large salmon peal trussed in the form of the letter S; dress it upon a dish without a napkin, having previously drained off all the water; have ready the following sauce: peel fifty small button onions, then put a good teaspoonful of powdered sugar into a convenient-sized stewpan, place it upon a sharp fire, and just as the sugar melts and turns yellowish add a quarter of a pound of butter and the onions, place it again upon the fire, tossing them over occasionally until they become slightly browned, then add a good tablespoonful of flour (mix well, but gently), a glass of sherry, and a pint of broth (reserved from some soup), let boil at the corner of the stove, skim well, and when the onions are done and the sauce rather thick, add a little pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of catsup, one of Harvey sauce, and one of essence of anchovies; when ready to serve add two dozen of oysters, blanched and bearded, allow them to get quite hot, sauce over and serve. I sometimes at home make a few fish quenelles (No. 124, Kitchen of the Wealthy) and add to the sauce.

The remainder of the above is very good if put in the oven upon a dish with a cover over and a little additional sauce.

No. 58. _Cod Fish, plain boiled._ (See page 119.)

No. 59. _Cod Fish sauced over with Oyster Sauce._ Boil three slices of the fish as above, drain and dress them upon a dish without a napkin, blanch three dozen oysters by putting them into a stewpan with their juice upon the fire, move them round occasionally, do not let them boil; as soon as they become a little firm place a sieve over a basin, pour in the oysters, beard and throw them again into their liquor, put them into a stewpan; when boiling add four cloves, half a blade of mace, six peppercorns, and two ounces of butter, to which you have added half a tablespoonful of flour, breaking it into small pieces, stir well together, when boiling, season with a little salt, cayenne pepper, and essence of anchovies, finish with a gill of cream, or milk, and sauce over. The remains of this fish may be taken from the bone and placed upon a dish, with a little of the above sauce (to which you have added the yolks of two eggs) over, sprinkle over with bread-crumbs, and place it twenty minutes in a hot oven till the bread-crumbs become brown.

For Salt Fish, see page 122, in the other department of this work.

No. 60. _Haddocks._ (See Nos. 308, 309, 310, Kitchen of the Wealthy.)

No. 61. _Baked Haddocks._ (See page 129.)

No. 62. _Soles, Fried._ (See page 114.)

No. 63. _Soles, the Jewish Fashion._ Trim the fish well, dip it into a couple of eggs, well beaten, put six tablespoonfuls of salad-oil in a sauté-pan, place it over the fire, and when quite hot put in your sole; let remain five minutes, turn over, and fry upon the other side; ten or twelve minutes will cook it according to the size; serve upon a napkin without sauce. They are excellent cold.

No. 64. _Sole à la Meunière._ (See page 115, in the other department of this work.)

No. 65. _Sole aux Fines Herbes._ Put a spoonful of chopped eschalots into a sauté-pan, with a glass of sherry and an ounce of butter, place the sole over, pour nearly half a pint of melted butter over it, upon which sprinkle some chopped parsley, place it in a moderate oven for half an hour, take the sole out of the pan, dress upon a dish without a napkin, reduce the sauce that is in the pan over a sharp fire, add a little Harvey sauce and essence of anchovy, pour over the sole, and serve them with a little flour and butter.

No. 66. _Fried Whiting._ The whiting requires to be skinned, and the tail turned round and fixed into the mouth, dip it first into flour, then egg over, and dip it into bread-crumbs, fry as directed for the sole; for whiting aux fines herbes proceed as directed for sole aux fines herbes. At home I prefer the whiting fried with their skins on, merely dipping them in flour.

No. 67. _Whiting au Gratin._ Put a good spoonful of chopped onions upon a strong earthen dish, with a glass of wine, season the whitings with a little pepper and salt, put it in the dish, sprinkle some chopped parsley and chopped mushrooms over, and pour over half a pint of anchovy sauce (page 32), over which sprinkle some brown bread-crumbs, grated from the crust of bread, place it in a warm oven half an hour; it requires to be nicely browned; serve upon the dish you have cooked it in.

No. 68. _Red Mullets._ Procure two red mullets, which place upon a strong dish not too large, sprinkle some chopped onions, parsley, a little pepper and salt, and a little salad-oil over, and put them into a warm oven for half an hour, then put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of salad-oil, stir over a moderate fire until getting rather yellowish, then add a tablespoonful of sherry, half a pint of melted butter, with a little chopped mushrooms and parsley; reduce quickly over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred until becoming rather thick; when the mullets are done sauce over and serve.

No. 69. _Mackerel_ are generally served plain boiled; put them in a kettle containing boiling water, well salted, let simmer nearly half an hour, take them up, drain, and dish them upon a napkin, serve melted butter in a boat, with which you have mixed a tablespoonful of chopped fennel, boiling it a few minutes.

No. 70. _Mackerel à la Maître d’Hôtel._ (See p. 127); as also for Mackerel au beurre noir.

No. 71. _Gurnets_ are best stuffed and baked; stuff them as directed for haddocks, turn them round in the same manner, lay slices of butter over, cut very thin, and bake half an hour or more (according to their size) in a warm oven, when done dress upon a dish without a napkin, and have ready the following sauce: put a tablespoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan, with one of vinegar, place over the fire a couple of minutes, add half a pint of melted butter, a tablespoonful of Harvey sauce, one of catsup, and two of water, reduce until rather thick, season with a little pepper, cut the fillets of a good anchovy into strips, put in the sauce, which pour round the fish and serve.

No. 72. _Boiled Gurnet._ You may boil it either with or without the stuffing in very salt water, it will require rather more than half an hour; serve with anchovy sauce separate.

No. 73. _Herrings boiled with Cream Sauce._ Boil six herrings about twenty minutes in plenty of salt and water, but only just to simmer; then have ready the following sauce: put half a gill of cream upon the fire in a stewpan, when it boils add eight spoonfuls of melted butter, an ounce of fresh butter, a little pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon; dress the fish upon a dish without a napkin, sauce over and serve.

For Broiled Herrings à la Digon, see page 132.

No. 74. _Skate_ is usually crimped, cut into long slices, and curled round; procure two or three slices, tie them with string to keep the shape in boiling, put them into a kettle of boiling water, in which you have put a good handful of salt; boil gently about twenty minutes (have ready also a piece of the liver, which boil with it), when done drain well, and put it upon a dish without a napkin; put three parts of a pint of melted butter in a stewpan, place it upon the fire, and when quite hot add a wineglassful of capers, sauce over and serve.

For Skate au beurre noir, see page 133.

Skate may also be served upon a napkin with a boat of well-seasoned melted butter, to which you have added a spoonful of Harvey sauce.

No. 75. _Flounders, Water Souchet._ Procure four or six Thames flounders, cut each in halves, put half a pint of water in a sauté-pan, with a little scraped horseradish, a little pepper, salt, sugar, and forty sprigs of fresh parsley; place over the fire, boil a minute, then add the flounders, stew ten minutes, take them out and place in a dish without a napkin, reduce the liquor they were stewed in a little, pour over and serve.

To fry flounders, trim them, and proceed precisely as directed for fried soles (p. 114).

Smelts are likewise floured, egged, bread-crumbed, and fried as above.

Plaice are plain boiled in salt and water, and served with shrimp sauce in a boat.

FRESH WATER FISH.--No. 76. _Pike._ Clean as directed (page 93), stuff the interior as directed for haddocks (page 129), only adding some fillets of anchovies and chopped lemon-peel with it; curl round and put in a baking dish, spread a little butter all over, put in a moderate oven; when about half done egg over with a paste brush, and sprinkle bread-crumbs upon it; a middling-sized pike will take about an hour, but that according to the size and the heat of the oven; when done dress upon a dish without a napkin, and sauce round as directed for baked haddock above referred to.

No. 77. _Pike, Sauce Matelote._ Cook a pike exactly as in the last, dress it upon a dish without a napkin, and sauce with a matelote sauce over, made as directed for salmon sauce matelote (No. 57).

This fish may also be served with caper sauce as directed for the skate (No. 74)--the smaller ones are the best; the remains of a pike placed in the oven the next day, with a cover over it and a little more sauce added, is very nice.

No. 78. _Stewed Carp._ Procure a good-sized carp, stuff it, then put it into a baking-dish with two onions, one carrot, one turnip, one head of celery, and a good bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; moisten with two glasses of port wine, and put it in a moderate oven about two hours to bake; try if done with a knife, which is the case if the flesh leaves the bone easily, dress upon a dish without a napkin, then have ready the following sauce: mince a large Spanish onion with two common ones, and put them into a stewpan with three spoonfuls of salad-oil, fry rather a yellow colour, add two glasses of port wine and two spoonfuls of flour, mix all well together, add a pint of broth (reserved from some soup) or water, with half an ounce of glaze, boil it up, drain the stock the carp was cooked in from the vegetables, which also add to the sauce; boil well at the corner of the stove, skim, and when rather thick add a teaspoonful of Harvey sauce, one of essence of anchovies, twelve pickled mushrooms, and a little cayenne pepper, pour all the liquor drained from the fish out of your dish, sauce over and serve.

No. 79. _Carp, Sauce Matelote._ Put your carp into a small oval fish-kettle, with wine and vegetables as in the last, to which add also a pint of water and a little salt, with a few cloves and peppercorns; put the lid upon the fish-kettle and stand it over a moderate fire to stew an hour and a half, according to the size; when done drain well, dress upon a dish without a napkin, and sauce over with a matelote sauce made as directed for salmon sauce matelote (No. 57), or caper sauce, as for skate (No. 74); small carp are very good-flavored, bread-crumbed and fried.

No. 80. _Truite à la Twickenham._ When you have cleaned your trout as described at page 23, put them into a kettle of boiling water, to which you have added a good handful of salt, and a wineglassful of vinegar; boil gently about twenty minutes, or according to their size, dress upon a napkin, and serve melted butter, into which you have put a tablespoonful of chopped gherkins in a boat.

The remains of trout, salmon, or mackerel are excellent pickled; put three onions in slices in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, one turnip, parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, pass them five minutes over the fire, add a pint of water and a pint of vinegar; boil until the onions are tender, then strain it through a sieve over the fish; it will keep some time if required, and then do to pickle more fish by boiling over again.

No. 81. _Truite à la Burton._ Boil the trout as in the last, then put half a pint of melted butter in a stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of cream and two of milk, place it upon the fire, and when upon the point of boiling add a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with a tablespoonful of cream (dress the fish upon a dish without a napkin), put two ounces of fresh butter, a pinch of salt, and the juice of a lemon into the sauce; shake round over the fire, but do not let it boil; sauce over the fish and serve.

No. 82. _Tench, Sauce Matelote._ Put three onions, a carrot, and turnip, cut in slices, into a stewpan, or very small fish-kettle, with a good handful of parsley, a few sprigs of thyme, three bay-leaves, six cloves, a blade of mace, a little salt, and two glasses of sherry; lay your tench over (it will require four for a dish, and they may be either cooked whole or each one cut into two or three pieces), add a pint of water, cover down close, and stew gently over a slow fire for about half an hour, take them out, drain upon a cloth, dress in pyramid upon a dish without a napkin, and pour a sauce over made as directed for salmon sauce matelote (No. 57), or as for stewed carp (No. 78).

No. 83. _Tench with Anchovy Butter._ Cook the tench as in the last, but they may be plain boiled in salt and water; dress upon a dish without a napkin, then put six spoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, with one of milk; place it upon the fire, and when upon the point of boiling add an ounce of anchovy butter (page 33), shake it round over the fire until the butter is melted, when sauce over and serve.

No. 84. _Perch fried in Butter._ Clean the fish as explained (p. 94), dry well, make an incision upon each side with a knife, put a quarter of a pound of butter in a sauté-pan over a slow fire, lay in the fish, fry gently, turning them over when half done; when done dress upon a napkin, and serve melted butter in a boat.

No. 85. _Perch, Hampton Court Fashion._ Cook the fish as above, and have ready the following sauce: put six spoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, with a little salt and the juice of a lemon; when upon the point of boiling stir in the yolk of an egg mixed with a tablespoonful of cream; do not let it boil; blanch about twenty small sprigs of parsley in boiling water ten minutes, drain and put them in the sauce, which pour over the fish and serve.

Perch may also be served plain boiled or stewed as directed for tench, with sauce served separate.

No. 86. _Eels Fried._ Cut your eels into pieces three inches long, dip the pieces into flour, egg over with a paste brush, and throw them into some bread-crumbs; fry in hot lard as directed for fried soles (p. 114).

No. 87. _Stewed Eels, Sauce Matelote._ Procure as large eels as possible, which cut into pieces three inches long, and put them into a stewpan, with an onion, two bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme and parsley, six cloves, a blade of mace, a glass of sherry, and two of water; place the stewpan over a moderate fire, and let simmer about twenty minutes, or according to the size of the eels; when done drain upon a cloth, dress them in pyramid upon a dish without a napkin, with a matelote sauce over, made as directed for salmon sauce matelote (No. 57), but using the stock your eels have been cooked in to make the sauce, having previously well boiled it to extract all the fat.

No. 88. _Gudgeons_ are floured, egged, bread-crumbed, or simply floured and fried as directed for smelts; but being smaller, they require less time to cook.

No. 89. _Escaloped Oysters._ Put two dozen of oysters with their liquor into a stewpan, place over a fire, and when a little firm drain them upon a sieve, catching the liquor in another stewpan; detach the beard from the oysters, and throw them again into their liquor; add half a blade of mace, place again upon the fire, and when boiling add a piece of butter, the size of a walnut, with which you have mixed a teaspoonful of flour; shake round over the fire until becoming very thick, season with a little cayenne, and salt if required, have an escalop-shell, well buttered and bread-crumbed, place the oysters in, sprinkle bread-crumbs over, put it in the oven a quarter of an hour, pass the salamander over, and serve.

No. 90. _Stewed Oysters._ Blanch and beard the oysters as above, when done, put them with their liquor in a stewpan, with four cloves, a blade of mace, and a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, with a little chopped parsley and cayenne; let simmer a minute, stir in two pats of butter, with which you have mixed half a teaspoonful of flour, let simmer a little longer, lay the oysters in your dish upon a piece of toast, and sauce over.

No. 91. _Gratin of Lobsters._ Procure a good-sized lobster, cut it in halves, detaching the head from the body, take out all the meat, and save the four shells; cut the meat into dice, then take a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a piece of butter the size of two walnuts, pass them a few minutes over a fire, add a tablespoonful of flour (mix well in), half a pint of milk, stir over the fire, boiling about five minutes, then add the lobster, which season with a little cayenne, salt, chopped parsley, and essence of anchovies; stand it again upon the fire, stirring until boiling, then stir in the yolk of an egg; take off the fire, fill the shells of the lobster, sprinkle bread-crumbs over, put them into the oven about ten minutes, the top requiring to be browned; serve upon a napkin garnished with parsley.

SIMPLE HORS-D’ŒUVRES.

No. 92. _Rissoles of Oysters._ Prepare two dozen of blanched oysters as directed for escaloped oysters, but cutting each oyster into six pieces, turn it out upon a dish, where leave it until quite cold; then have the trimmings of some puff paste,[25] which roll very thin; put some of the oysters upon it in pieces the size of a walnut, fold them over with the paste, which cut out with a round cutter, giving each the shape of a turnover, egg with a paste brush, and throw them into bread-crumbs, cover well, have ready a stewpan in which there is some very hot lard or white dripping (as for frying fish), in which fry your rissoles of a light brown colour; dress upon a napkin in a plate, garnish with fried parsley, and serve to be handed round the table.

No. 93. _Rissoles of Lamb._ Cut up about a pound of cooked lamb (the remains of a previous day) into very small dice, with a quarter of a pound of lean cooked ham, then put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a piece of butter the size of a nut, pass them over the fire a couple of minutes, then stir in a teaspoonful of flour, after which add nearly half a pint of melted butter and the meat; stir it over the fire until it boils, season well with a little pepper and salt, and stir in the yolks of a couple of eggs, put it out upon a dish till cold, and proceed as directed in the last article.

The flesh of any poultry or game may be used exactly the same.

No. 94. _Rocambole, or Croquettes of Meat, Game, or Poultry._ Make a preparation as above with some description of cold cooked meat, or poultry; when cold divide it into pieces, each rather larger than a walnut, roll them to about two inches and a half in length, have three eggs in a basin well whisked, into which dip them, throw them into bread-crumbs, take them out, well covered, and smooth them by gently patting them with a knife, then dip them into clarified butter, and again into bread-crumbs, smooth them again, and fry them of a light colour in a stewpan of hot lard, and serve precisely the same as for rissoles.

No. 95. _Lamb’s Fry._ See the other department of this work, page 312; nothing can be more simplified.