Various Preparations of Beef.

1164—STEWED STEAKS AND ONIONS

Select some steaks one and one-third inches thick; fry them in butter on both sides, and set them to braise in short moistening, with a sufficient quantity of quartered and browned onions to constitute an abundant garnish.

Leave the whole to cook gently for three hours.

Dish the steak, and surround it with the onions and the braising-liquor cleared of all grease and reduced.

1165—SALT BEEF

The pieces of beef chiefly selected for salting are brisket, silver side, and round of beef, and these are always boiled for a more or less lengthy period, according to their size.

To the cooking-liquor is added a copious garnish of carrots and turnips. These are served with the meat, together with a sauceboat of cooking-liquor and a suet dumpling, prepared as follows:—

1166—SUET DUMPLING

Finely chop up some suet; add to it an equal quantity of flour and about one-quarter oz. of salt per lb. of suet and flour.

Moisten with just enough water to make a thick paste of about the same consistence as brioche-paste. Cut this paste into portions weighing about one oz., and roll them into small balls. Put the latter in a sautépan containing some boiling beef cooking-liquor, which need not have been cleared of grease, and let them poach for one and one-half hours.

Now drain the dumplings, and arrange them around the meat with the garnish of carrots and turnips, as explained above.

1167—COLD SALT BEEF

Salt beef, served cold, constitutes an excellent sideboard dish for luncheons.

It need only be neatly trimmed all round, care being taken to preserve all the fat so highly esteemed by some. Indeed, a piece of cold salt fat is sometimes added to that already existing around and in the meat, in which case the extra quantity is fixed to the beef by means of a _hatelet_.

1168—PRESSED BEEF

Salt beef also serves in the preparation of “Pressed Beef,” but, for this purpose, the breast is generally used.

After having thoroughly cooked the salted breast of beef in accordance with the procedure indicated for salt beef, cut it into large pieces of the same size as the moulds into which the meat is going to be pressed. Lay the pieces of beef one on top of another in a square or rectangular mould, and cover with a thick board, cut flush with the inside edge of the mould. Now apply pressure, either by means of a strong press or heavy weight, and leave the beef to cool under the applied pressure.

When the meat is quite cold, turn it out; trim it carefully on all sides, and glaze it, _i.e._, cover it entirely with a coating of rather firm, clarified gelatine, brought by means of carmine and caramel to a nice red-brown colour.

1169—STEAK AND KIDNEY PUDDING

Cut three lbs. of very lean beef into slices one-third inch thick.

Season these slices with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and add a little chopped onion and parsley. Take a pudding-basin; line it with a firm layer of suet-dough (No. 1166), and garnish the bottom and sides of the basin with the slices of beef.

In the middle put one lb. of kidney of beef, of veal, or of mutton, cut up as for tossing, and seasoned like the steaks. Moisten with just sufficient water to cover.

Now close up the basin with a layer of the same paste as that used in lining, pinching it with the latter, all round, that it may adhere thoroughly. In order to effect this with greater certainty, the respective edges of the two layers of paste may be moistened.

This done, cover the basin with a buttered and dredged napkin, fastened on by means of string tied round just beneath the lip of the utensil. Cook for five hours, either in boiling water or in steam, and, after having removed the napkin, serve the pudding as it stands.

1170—STEAK PUDDING

Make some rather stiff paste with two lbs. of flour, one and one-quarter lbs. of the chopped fat of kidney of beef, a pinch of salt, and one-quarter pint of water.

With the rolling-pin, roll out this paste to a round layer one-quarter inch thick, and put it into a buttered dome-mould or pudding-basin.

Cut the lean beef into pieces, and season them, exactly as for steak and kidney pudding. Fill up the basin with the pieces arranged in layers; moisten with just enough water to cover, and close up the basin with a layer of the same paste as that used for its lining.

Carefully join the edges of the two layers of paste, assisting the operation with a little moisture applied by means of a brush; swathe the basin in a buttered pudding-cloth, and fasten the latter firmly with string.

Put the pudding in a saucepan of boiling water or a steamer, and leave it to cook for three hours if the beef has been cut from the fillet, and for four hours if cut from any other piece.

At the end of the required time take the pudding out of the saucepan and remove the cloth.

Dish on a folded napkin.

1171—STEAK AND OYSTER PUDDING

Proceed exactly as for steak and kidney pudding, but take only two lbs. of beef, and replace the odd pound by forty fine oysters.

1172—DAUBE CHAUDE A LA PROVENÇALE

Cut four lbs. of shoulder or cushion of beef into cubes weighing about four oz. each. Lard each piece of meat with a strip of bacon two inches long by one-half inch wide, and put the cubes or pieces into a bowl with salt, pepper, a very little spice, five or six tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and a glass of red wine. Leave to _marinade_ for two or three hours, and toss the pieces, from time to time, in the _marinading_ liquor, in order that each may be well saturated with it. Heat six oz. of grated bacon in an earthenware stewpan, and brown therein twelve small onions, fifteen carrots in the shape of olives, two sticks of celery cut into pieces of the same size as the carrots, and four cloves of garlic. Add the _marinaded_ pieces of meat, which should have been properly dried; fry the whole, meat and vegetables, for a further seven or eight minutes, and moisten with the _marinade_ and two glasses more of red wine.

Complete with one-half lb. of fresh bacon rind, _blanched_ and cut into square pieces of two-thirds inch side; a faggot made up of parsley stalks, thyme, bay, and, in the centre, a small piece of dry lemon rind. Set to boil, completely close the stewpan, and leave to cook in a moderate oven for six or seven hours.

When about to serve, remove the faggot, clear all grease from the gravy, and dish in a hot timbale, or serve the “daube” in the stewpan itself.

1173—DAUBE A LA PROVENÇALE FROIDE

A daube is rarely prepared specially for cold dishing; generally the remains of one already served hot are used.

Take the pieces, one by one, with a fork, and place them in a _terrine à pâté_ with the carrots, onions, and squares of bacon rind, which have remained almost untouched.

Strain the gravy over them through an ordinary strainer, pressing lightly the while, and leave to cool.

When about to serve, turn out the daube on a cold dish, and surround with chopped aspic jelly.

1174—CARBONNADES A LA FLAMANDE

Cut three lbs. of lean shoulder or cushion of beef into thin, short slices. Season the latter with salt and pepper, and brown them quickly on both sides in stock fat. At the same time toss one and one-quarter lbs. of minced onions in butter, until they are well browned.

Put the slices of beef and the onions in alternate layers into a saucepan, and in their midst place a faggot.

Drain the grease from the sautépan in which the slices were fried; swill with one and one-half pints of beer (old Lambic in preference); add the same quantity of brown stock, thicken with four oz. of brown roux; finish the seasoning with one and one-half oz. of powdered sugar; set to boil, stirring the while, and strain this sauce over the slices of beef and the onions.

Cover and cook gently in the oven for from two and one-half to three hours.

N.B.—Carbonnades are served thus, mingled with the onions; but they may also be dished in a timbale and covered with a Soubise consisting of the onion and the sauce rubbed through tammy.

1175—ÉMINCÉ DE BŒUF

Cold roast or boiled meats may be warmed up in many different ways.

In their preparation, however, the reader should follow one rule, the non-observance of which invariably leads to failure.

Whatever the meat be, it should first be cut into the thinnest possible slices; set on a dish, and covered with a boiling sauce or garnish, which should effect its warming up. If the meat boil in the sauce or garnish, it toughens, and this, above all, should be avoided when roast meat is used.

Sauces suited to _Émincés_ are the Bordelaise, the Piquante, the Italienne, the Chasseur, the Poivrade, the Périgueux, and the Tomato.

1176—ÉMINCÉ DE BŒUF EN MIROTON

For one lb. of beef mince two fine onions somewhat finely, and toss them in butter until they are evenly and well _gilded_.

Sprinkle with one-half tablespoonful of flour; set to cook for a moment, and then moisten with one-half glassful of white wine and one-half pint of consommé; season with a pinch of pepper; boil, and leave to cook gently for seven or eight minutes.

The flour may be dispensed with, but, in this case, the white wine is reduced to two-thirds, one-half pint of half-glaze is added, and the whole is cooked for seven or eight minutes.

Cut the beef into very thin slices, and set these on a dish.

A minute before serving, add a few drops of vinegar to the onions; cover the meat with the onions and the sauce; stand the dish for a moment on the hob, and sprinkle it slightly with chopped parsley.

N.B.—When the miroton is prepared with boiled beef, the slices should be cut somewhat more thickly, and left to simmer gently in the sauce for as long as possible—an hour or more if necessary.

The miroton is then dished with some minced gherkins, sprinkled with raspings, and placed in the oven at the last moment for the _gratin_ to form.

1177—GOULASH DE BŒUF A LA HONGROISE

Cut three lbs. of ribs or shoulder of beef into squares weighing about three oz. each. Fry these pieces on a moderate fire in four oz. of lard, together with one-half lb. of onions cut into large dice, until the latter acquire a nice, even, golden colour. Season with one-third oz. of salt and the necessary quantity of paprika; add one and one-quarter lbs. of peeled, pressed, and quartered tomatoes, and one-sixth pint of water.

Cover and cook in the oven for one and one-half hours.

This done, add one-third pint of water and one and one-quarter lbs. of quartered potatoes to the Goulash.

Continue the cooking in the oven, basting often the while, and do not stop the operation until the moistening-liquor is entirely reduced. When about to serve, dish the Goulash in a timbale.

1178—HACHIS DE BŒUF A L’AMÉRICAINE

Cut the meat into small cubes.

Also cut into dice the same weight of potatoes as of meat.

Season these potatoes and toss them in butter.

This done, put half their quantity into a saucepan with the meat dice, and cohere the whole with a few tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce and reduced veal gravy. Heat without allowing to boil; dish in a hot timbale; distribute the remainder of the potatoes, which should be crisply fried, over the hash, and sprinkle with a pinch of freshly-chopped parsley.

1179—HACHIS DE BŒUF PARMENTIER

Bake some fine potatoes in the oven.

The moment they are done, slice off a piece of their baked shell, and remove the pulp from their insides by means of a spoon handle.

Crush this pulp with a fork, and toss it in butter as for “pommes de terre Macaire.” Then add to it as much beef in dice as there is pulp; two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion cooked in butter per lb. of the preparation; a pinch of chopped parsley, and a few drops of vinegar. Now toss the whole together for a few minutes, and then fill the empty potato shells with the preparation.

Sprinkle with Lyonnaise sauce rubbed through tammy, and add as much of it as the hash will absorb.

Replace the portion of shell cut off at the first, that the potatoes may seem untouched; arrange them on a dish, and put the latter in the oven for ten minutes. When about to serve, dish the stuffed potatoes on a napkin.

1180—TRIPES A LA MODE DE CAEN

In the preparation of this culinary speciality of Normandy, a very common mistake is often made; to wit, that of using calves’ feet instead of those of the ox, an innovation to which there are many objections.

In the first place, the gravy of the tripe cannot absorb so much gelatine, and is indifferently thickened in consequence; secondly, since calves’ feet are much more tender than those of the ox, the former get boiled to shreds before the cooking of the tripe has been properly effected. This supposed improvement on the old method is thus seen to actually run counter to the end in view; but means there are, nevertheless, whereby those who insist upon the use of calves’ feet may be satisfied. It is only necessary to braise a number of calves’ feet beforehand, the number being in proportion to the quantity of tripe, and to add these to the latter a quarter of an hour before serving.

Another mistake which obtains somewhat widely in respect of this dish is the serving of it in a silver utensil—a method quite as unreasonable as that of serving a Chaudfroid in an earthenware dish.

By virtue of its simplicity, tripe should be served in either sandstone or special earthenware stewpans, wherein heat is best retained; and the operator should rather direct his attention to the serving of tripe as hot as possible, than to this or that fanciful method of dishing, which really has no raison d’être in this case.

_The Preparation of Tripe._—Under the head of “beef tripe” are understood: (1) The feet; (2) tripe proper, which comprises the Paunch, the Honey-comb Bag, the Manyplies, and the Reed.

First soak the tripe in cold water for some considerable time; then cut it into squares of two inches side.

For the seasoning and flavouring of tripe, complete in all its parts, take: (Seasoning) one-quarter oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper per lb.; (flavouring) four lbs. of onions stuck with four cloves; three lbs. of carrots; one faggot, comprising two lbs. of leeks, one-third lb. of parsley stalks, a sprig of thyme, and a bay leaf.

Moisten with two quarts of good cider (not likely to turn black while cooking, otherwise use water); one-half pint of brandy or liqueur-cider.

The quantity of the moistening-liquor largely depends upon the shape of the utensil; a little less will be needed in the case of a narrow one, and a little more in the case of a wide one.

In any case, however, the tripe should be just covered.

_Treatment and Cooking-process._—Take a stewpan or braising-pan, just large enough to hold the tripe and the garnish.

On the bottom of this lay carrots, onions, seasoning, and the four ox feet, bound and cut into fair-sized pieces.

Add the tripe, placing the faggot in its midst; upon the tripe lay the bones of the feet, broken lengthwise; some slices of beef-fat, well soaked in cold water; and, finally, the moistening.

Cover the whole with a kind of _galette_ of paste, consisting of flour mixed with hot water and kept somewhat stiff, and fix the paste well on to the edges of the utensil.

Place in the oven, and, when about two hours have elapsed and the paste is well baked, close the utensil with its own cover.

In a regular and moderate oven, allow about ten hours for the cooking.

_The Dishing and Serving._—After taking the tripe out of the oven, remove the cover of paste, the bones, the fat, the carrots, the onions, and the faggot, and by means of a slice withdraw the pieces of tripe and set them in the special earthenware bowls, taking care to distribute the pieces, coming from different portions of tripe, in such wise as to meet the demands or fancies of the various consumers.

When the tripe has been transferred to the bowls, clear the gravy of all grease, and dole it out evenly among the number of receptacles. It is best, now, to put the latter in a _bain-marie_, for they must only be served quite hot, on chafers or otherwise.

N.B.—(1) To make the dish to perfection, the tripe should be put into special earthenware pots (wherein the heat is more effectively concentrated), and cooked in a baker’s or pastry-cook’s oven.

I dealt with the alternative of cooking tripe in a stewpan in order to make provision for those who can avail themselves of neither special pots nor a baker’s oven.

(2) The measures I prescribe, namely, those of first laying the slices of beef-fat upon the tripe, and then covering the whole with a lid of paste, are intended to stop a too rapid evaporation of the liquid—a contingency that must be guarded against, more particularly in a kitchen oven—and to preserve the whiteness of the tripe.

The cover of paste would be quite useless if a baker’s oven were available, for the latter not only ensures perfectly regular heat, but also wanes regularly.

With the exception of veal sweetbreads, it cannot be denied that this meat is considerably less popular in England than abroad, nor does it ever seem to appear on important menus in this country.

Of course, and the fact must not be lost sight of, English veal is admittedly inferior in quality—badly fattened, and mostly red, soft, and dry. Probably, therefore, its unpopularity may be the indirect cause of its poor quality; for it is inconceivable that a country so famous for cattle-rearing as England undoubtedly is could not produce veal equal in quality to its beef, mutton, and pork, if rearers thought it worth their while to perfect that special branch of their business. Be this as it may, almost all the best veal consumed in England comes from the Continent, principally from France, Belgium, and Holland; and, in this respect, I not only refer to the larger joints, but to those odd parts such as the head, the liver, the sweetbreads, &c., the continental quality of which is likewise very superior to that of the English produce.

1181—SELLE DE VEAU (Relevé)

Saddle of veal is the only Relevé of this meat which is sometimes allowed to appear on an important menu, and it is, in fact, a splendid and succulent joint.

It may be roasted, but I should urge the adoption of the braising treatment, not only as a precaution against dryness, but because of the fine stock yielded by the operation.

Whatever be the method of cooking, trim the saddle on one side, flush with the bones of the pelvis, and up to the first ribs on the other side. Then cut out the kidneys, leaving a thick layer of fat on the under fillets or “filets mignons”; pare the flank on either side, in such wise that what is left of it, when drawn under the saddle on either side, may just cover the fillets above referred to. This flank should only be drawn over the fillets after the inside of the joint has been salted; then cover the top surface of the joint with slices of bacon, and tie round with string, five or six times, that the bacon and the flank may not shift.

When the saddle is intended for only a small number of people, half of it may be used at a time; that is to say, one fillet, in which case the joint may be cut in two, lengthwise.

The procedure for braising this piece is in pursuance of the directions given under “The Braising of White Meats” (No. 248).

The process of braising, whether it be in respect of the saddle or other veal Relevés, such as the cushion, the loin, the neck, &c., demands particular care, must be accompanied by frequent basting, and should always be carried on with short moistening.

1182—SELLE DE VEAU A LA CHARTREUSE

Braise the saddle, and glaze it at the last moment, after having removed the slices of bacon. Set it on a long dish, and, at each end of the latter, place a _chartreuse_ of vegetables.

Round the joint put a few tablespoonfuls of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced, and well-strained; and serve what remains in a sauceboat.

_Chartreuses of Vegetables._—Take two dome- or Charlotte-moulds, capable of holding two-thirds of a quart. Butter them liberally; line them with buttered paper, and on the latter, over the bottom and sides of the utensil, lay carrots, turnips, peas, and French beans; each of which vegetables should be cooked in a way suited to its nature. This operation, which is somewhat finicking, may either be effected on the plan of a draught-board, or the different vegetables may be superposed in alternate rows of varying colours.

When the moulds are garnished in this way, spread thereon, over the vegetables, a layer of forcemeat softened with beaten white of egg; the object of this measure is to keep the vegetable decoration in position, and this is effected by the poaching of the forcemeat before the chartreuse is filled with its garnish.

This done, fill the moulds to within one-third inch of their brims with a Macédoine of vegetables cohered by means of stiff Béchamel and cream, and cover with a layer of forcemeat.

Set these chartreuses to poach thirty-five minutes before serving, and take care to let them rest for five minutes before unmoulding them on either side of the saddle.

1183—SELLE DE VEAU A LA METTERNICH

Braise the saddle, and, when it is ready, put it on a dish. Now draw a line within one-half inch of its extreme edge on either side and end, pressing the point of a small knife along the meat in so doing.

Proceed in the same way on either side of the chine, and remove the fillets from the joint, severing them from the bone with care.

Cut the fillets into regular collops, keeping the knife somewhat at a slant.

In the double cavity left by the fillets spread a few tablespoonfuls of Béchamel with paprika; return the colloped fillets to their respective places in the joint, reconstructing them in such wise as to make them appear untouched; and between the collops pour one-half tablespoonful of Béchamel and lay two slices of truffle.

This done, cover the whole surface of the joint with Béchamel sauce with paprika, and set to glaze quickly at the salamander. Now, with a large slice, carefully transfer the saddle to a dish.

Serve separately (1) the braising-liquor of the saddle, cleared of all grease and reduced; (2) a timbale of pilaff rice.

1184—SELLE DE VEAU A LA NELSON

Braise the saddle. When it is ready, remove the fillets, proceeding exactly as described under “Selle à la Metternich,” and cut the fillets in a similar manner.

In the cavities left by the fillets spread a few tablespoonfuls of Soubise; return the colloped fillets to their place, and, between the collops, place a thin slice of ham, of the same size and shape as the adjacent piece of meat, and a little Soubise sauce.

Having reconstructed the joint, cover its surface with a layer, about one inch thick, of “Soufflé au Parmesan,” combined with one quart of truffle purée.

Bind the joint with a strong band of buttered paper, for the purpose of holding in the _soufflé_, and set it to cook in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes. After having taken the saddle out of the oven, remove the paper band, and send it to the table without changing the dish.

Send the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced and strained, to the table separately.

1185—SELLE DE VEAU A L’ORIENTALE

Braise the saddle; remove the fillets, and cut them into collops as for “Selle à la Metternich.” Garnish the cavities with Soubise sauce “au currie”; reconstruct the fillets, putting a little of the same sauce between the collops, and coat the surface of the piece with the sauce already referred to.

Surround the joint with braised celery, and serve its cooking liquor and a timbale of pilaff rice separately.

1186—SELLE DE VEAU A LA PIÉMONTAISE

Braise the saddle, and cut the fillets into collops as before. When reconstructing the fillets, between the collops put a little Béchamel sauce, combined with three and one-half oz. of grated Parmesan and three and one-half oz. of grated white truffles per quart of the sauce.

Coat the surface of the joint with the same sauce, and set to glaze quickly.

Serve the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and strained, separately; as also a timbale of rizotto à la Piémontaise (No. 2258).

1187—SELLE DE VEAU PRINCE ORLOFF

Braise the saddle and proceed as above, placing between the collops of fillet a little Soubise sauce and a fine slice of truffle.

Coat the surface of the joint with Mornay sauce, combined with one quart of highly-seasoned Soubise, and set to glaze quickly.

N.B.—This saddle may be accompanied either by a garnish of asparagus-heads or by cucumbers with cream.

1188—SELLE DE VEAU A LA ROMANOFF

Braise the saddle; remove the fillets, and cut the latter into collops as for “Selle à la Metternich.” Reconstruct the fillets, placing a small quantity of minced mushrooms, cohered by means of a few tablespoonfuls of cream, between the collops, and coat the surface of the joint with highly-seasoned Béchamel sauce, finished with four oz. of crayfish butter per quart.

Surround the piece with a border of braised half-fennels. Serve the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced and strained, separately.

1189—SELLE DE VEAU A LA TOSCA

Braise the saddle, and then prepare it as for No. 1183. Almost completely fill the cavities left by the fillets with a garnish of macaroni, cut into short lengths, cohered with cream, and combined with a _julienne_ of truffles.

Reconstruct the fillets upon this garnish and coat the collops with Mornay sauce, placing a slice of truffle between the collops. The reconstructed fillets thus appear raised on either side of the chine.

Coat the surface of the joint with the same sauce as that already used, and set to glaze quickly. Send the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and strained, to the table separately.

1190—SELLE DE VEAU A LA RENAISSANCE

Braise the saddle, and glaze it at the last moment. Dish it and surround it with a large heap of cauliflower at either end; on either side, nice heaps of carrots and turnips, raised by means of an oval, grooved spoon-cutter, cooked in consommé and glazed; peas; French beans in lozenge-form; asparagus-heads cohered with butter; and some small potatoes cooked in butter.

Send the braising-liquor of the joint, cleared of grease and strained, separately.

1191—SELLE DE VEAU A LA TALLEYRAND

Prepare twenty studs of truffle, about one inch long and one-third oz. in weight. Stick them upright and symmetrically into the meat of the joint, making way for them by means of little incisions cut with a small knife. Now envelop the joint in slices of larding bacon, string it, braise it, and glaze it at the last moment.

Dish it with some of its braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and reduced.

Serve separately (1) what remains of the braising-liquor; (2) a garnish of macaroni, cut into half-inch lengths, cohered with one and one-half oz. of butter, three oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan, combined with three oz. of foie gras, cut into large dice, and three oz. of a _julienne_ of truffles, per lb. of macaroni.

1192—SELLE DE VEAU FROIDE

Cold saddle of veal makes an excellent sideboard dish which admits of all cold-dish garnishes, such as Macédoines of vegetables cohered with jelly or mayonnaise sauce; artichoke-bottoms and tomatoes, variously garnished; small, moulded vegetable salads, &c.

Decorate it with fine, regular, jelly dice; but its usual and essential adjunct is its own braising-liquor, cooked, cleared of grease poured carefully away, and served in a sauceboat without having been either clarified or cleared.

All the pieces of veal given as relevés, the cushion, the loin, the fillet, and the fricandeau, may be served cold like the saddle, and are generally much appreciated, more particularly in summer.

1193—LOIN OF VEAL

1194—NECK OF VEAL

1195—SHORT LOIN OF VEAL

1196—CHUMP OF VEAL OR QUASI

1197—CUSHION OF VEAL (Relevés)

I have grouped these various Relevés together owing to the identicalness of their garnishes.

The directions I give below for cushion of veal are, with a very few exceptions which I shall point out, applicable to all other large veal joints. In the circumstances, therefore, it would be quite unnecessary to repeat the recipe in each case.

_Loin of Veal_ is that piece which corresponds with the sirloin in beef. It extends from the floating ribs to the extreme end of the haunch, the latter being cut flush with the pelvic bone at its junction with the femur, and following the direction of the former bone. The loin thus consists of two distinct parts:—(1) the caudal region (called the chump end; Fr. quasi), which comprises the bones of the pelvis and the haunch, up to the level of the latter, and is one of the best pieces of veal for braising; and (2) the region extending from the haunch to the floating ribs, comprising the fillet and the upper fillet. This last portion also constitutes a choice joint, to which the kidneys are generally left attached, after all their superfluous fat has been removed.

_Neck or Best End of Veal_ consists of the first eight or nine ribs, cut two inches above the kernel of meat. The ends of the rib-bones are cleared of meat to a height of about two-thirds inch, and the naked bone is then called the “handle” of the cutlet, which ultimately holds the ornamental frill of paper.

The vertebræ are then suppressed, so that the bones of the ribs alone remain; the yellow ligament is cut away; and the bared parts are covered with slices of bacon, tied on by means of string.

_Cushion of Veal_ consists of an enormous muscle, which represents almost half of the haunch and all the inside part of it, from the pelvis to its junction with the tibia. A certain quantity of white fat will always be found to lie over the cushion, and it should be carefully reserved.

If the cushion is to be larded, a procedure which I do not advise, it should be done on the bared part adjoining the fat-covered region.

The various pieces of veal enumerated above may be roasted, but, as in the case of the saddle, I prefer braising, owing to the greater succulence of the dish resulting from this process, and its accompanying gravy, which has an incomparable flavour. (See Braising of White Meats, No. 248.)

1198—ADJUNCTS TO CUSHION OF VEAL

Cushion of veal, like the other large pieces of veal, admits of an almost unlimited number of vegetable garnishes, simple or compound, as also garnishes of various pastes.

From among these garnishes the following may be quoted, viz.:—Bouquetière, Bourgeoise, Chartreuse, Choisy, Chicorée, Cardoons, Clamart, Braised Celery, Japanese Artichokes, Chow-chow, Endives, Spinach, Braised Lettuce, à la Vichy, à la Nemours, &c.; Jardinière, Macédoine, Renaissance, &c.

Among the paste garnishes:—Noodles, Macaroni, Spaghetti, variously prepared; various Gnocchi, &c.

And, in addition to all these, the garnishes already given under Beef Relevés, which need not be repeated here.

I shall, therefore, give only three recipes which are proper to cushion of veal; though even these should be regarded as mere curiosities, seeing that, far from recommending them, I consider them rather as gastronomical mistakes. But some provision must be made for outlandish tastes, and, for this reason alone, I include the following recipes.

1199—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE

Braise the cushion of veal, keeping it somewhat firm. This done, set it on a dish, and let it almost cool.

Then cut a slice from it laterally, at a point one-third inch of its height from the top; and, within one-half inch of its edges, make a circular incision, pressing the point of a sharp knife into the meat, and withdraw the centre of the cushion. Take care to leave the same thickness of meat on the sides as on the bottom, that is to say, about one-half inch. The cushion of veal, thus emptied, should have the appearance of a round or oval case.

If the meat withdrawn from the centre of the cushion is to serve for the garnish, or is to be used sliced to surround the case, cut it from out the whole in the largest possible pieces, in order that slices may easily be cut therefrom.

The inside of the emptied cushion of veal is then garnished according to fancy; the top of the piece that was cut off at the start is returned to its place, with the view of giving the piece an untouched appearance, and the whole is put in the oven for a few minutes that it may be hot for serving.

The braising-liquor, cleared of grease and strained, should be sent to the table separately.

1200—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA MACÉDOINE

Braise the cushion of veal, and hollow it out as explained above.

Meanwhile (1) prepare a _Macédoine_ garnish, or mixed _Jardinière_ (cohered with butter or cream), the quantity of which should be in proportion to the size of the case; (2) cut the meat, withdrawn from the centre of the cushion, into thin rectangles.

Garnish the bottom of the case with a layer of _Macédoine_, and set thereon a litter consisting of the rectangles of meat. Cover with _Macédoine_; set thereon another litter of the pieces of meat, and renew the operation until the case is filled. Finish up with a layer of _Macédoine_.

Replace the slice cut from the cushion at the start; put the case in the oven for a few minutes; serve, and send the braising-liquor separately.

1201—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA PITHIVIERS

Braise the cushion of veal, and prepare the case as directed above.

Stuff fifteen larks without boning them; that is to say, put a lump of stuffing about the size of a hazel-nut into each. Fry them in butter with one-half lb. of mushrooms and three oz. of truffles, each of which vegetables should be raw and minced. Cohere the whole with the necessary quantity of half-glaze sauce, flavoured with game essence; put this garnish in the case; return the sliced piece to its place; seal the cover to the case by means of a thread of almost liquid forcemeat, and set in the oven for seven or eight minutes.

When taking the case out of the oven, surround with the withdrawn meat, which should have been cut into thin slices and kept warm until required for the dressing.

The larks may be replaced by quails or thrushes, or other small birds, but the name of the particular bird used must be referred to in the title of the dish.

1202—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA TOULOUSAINE

Braise the cushion and cut it to the shape of a case as explained above. Pour therein a garnish consisting of quenelles of chicken forcemeat; lamb sweetbreads, or collops of veal sweetbreads, braised without colouration; cocks’ combs; small mushrooms, cooked and very white; and slices of truffle; the whole to be cohered by means of an Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence.

Return the piece sliced off at the start to its place, and surround with slices of the meat withdrawn from the inside of the cushion.

N.B.—All the garnishes suited to Vol-au-vent and timbales may be served with cushion-of-veal case, which latter thus stands in the stead of the Vol-au-vent and Timbale crusts.

Finally, I must ask the reader to bear in mind that methods like those described above have no place in really good cookery, the ruling principle of which should always be simplicity.

1203—NOIX DE VEAU FROIDE A LA CAUCASIENNE

Cut a cold cushion of veal into slices two inches long by one-half inch wide by one-sixth inch thick.

On each slice spread a little butter seasoned with salt and pepper, combined with finely-chopped chives and anchovy fillets cut into dice.

Couple the slices together as for sandwiches; round off their angles and put them under slight pressure. Prepare a Purée of tomatoes with jelly; mould it in a dome- or Bombe-mould, and let it set on ice.

When this moulding of tomatoes is quite firm, turn it out in the middle of a round, cold dish; arrange the meat slices all round, and border the dish with cubes of very clear veal jelly.

1204—NOIX DE VEAU FROIDE A LA SUÉDOISE

(1) From the widest part of a cold cushion of veal, cut a lateral slice one and one-third inch thick, and trim it nicely round.

(2) Let a coating of aspic jelly set on the bottom of a round dish, and upon this jelly, when it is quite firm, lay the slice of veal.

(3) Cut what remains of the piece of veal into slices two inches long, by one and one-half inch broad, by one-eighth inch thick. Prepare the same number of rectangles of salted tongue, of the same size, though slightly thinner than those of veal.

(4) Cohere a nice vegetable salad with cleared mayonnaise; mould it in an oiled, Bombe-shaped or narrow pyramid mould, and put it on ice to set.

Coat the rectangles of veal with horse-radish butter; place a rectangle of tongue on each, and finish off these sandwiches by rounding their corners.

_For Dishing._—By means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, garnish the edges of the slice of veal with a thread of previously softened butter.

Turn out the vegetable salad in the centre of the piece of meat; set on it the heart of a small lettuce (nicely opened), and arrange the veal and tongue sandwiches all round.

Serve a cold sauce, derived from the mayonnaise, separately.

1205—LONGES, CARRÉS ET NOIX DE VEAU FROIDS

What was said in respect of cold saddle of veal likewise applies to the different pieces mentioned in the above title. They may be coated with aspic jelly and dished with _Macédoines_ of vegetables, cohered with jelly; small salads, cohered with cleared mayonnaise; garnished artichoke-bottoms, &c.

The dishes should always be bordered with cubes of very clear jelly.

1206—FRICANDEAU (Relevé)

Fricandeau is a lateral cut from the cushion of veal; that is to say, a piece cut with the grain of the meat. It should not be thicker than one and one-half inches.

After beating it with a beater or the flat of a chopper, to break the fibres of the meat, finely lard the piece of meat on the cut side with strips of bacon, somewhat smaller than those used for fillet of beef. Only when the piece is larded may it be called “Fricandeau”; for, when not treated thus, it is nothing else than an ordinary piece of veal. Fricandeau is invariably braised; but it differs from other braisings of white meat in this, namely, that it must be so cooked as to be easily cut with a spoon. Connoisseurs maintain that Fricandeau should never be touched with a knife.

It is glazed at the last moment, like other braisings, and, in view of its prolonged cooking, should be dished with great care.

All the garnishes enumerated for cushion of veal may be adapted to Fricandeau.

1207—FRICANDEAU FROID

Cold fricandeau constitutes an excellent luncheon dish. It is dished and surrounded with its braising-liquor, cleared of grease and strained. This braising-liquor sets to a jelly, and is the finest adjunct to fricandeau that could be found.

The piece may be glazed with half-melted jelly, smeared over it by means of a brush.

1208—POITRINE DE VEAU FARCIE

This is really a family dish, admirably suited for a luncheon relevé. It is accompanied chiefly by vegetable purées, but all the vegetable and other garnishes given under Cushion of Veal may be served with it.

Breast of veal is prepared thus:—After having boned the piece, open it where it is thickest, without touching the ends. A kind of pocket is thus obtained, into which put the previously-prepared stuffing, taking care to spread it very evenly.

Now, with coarse cotton, sew up the opening, and remember to withdraw the cotton when the piece is cooked.

_Stuffing for Breast of Veal._—For a piece weighing four lbs., add to one lb. of very fine sausage-meat (No. 196), two oz. of dry _duxelles_, two oz. of butter, a pinch of chopped parsley, tarragon and chives, a small beaten egg, and a little salt and pepper.

_Cooking._—Breast of veal is usually braised; the moistening should be short and the cooking process gentle. For a piece weighing four lbs. when stuffed, allow three hours in a moderate and regular oven. Glaze breast of veal at the last moment, as in the case of other braised meats.

1209—TÊTE DE VEAU (Relevé and Entrée)

Nowadays, calf’s head is rarely served whole, as was the custom formerly. Still more rarely, however, is it served at a dinner of any importance; and it has now, by almost general consent, been relegated to luncheon menus where, indeed, it has found its proper place.

After having boned the head, soak it or hold it under a running tap, for a sufficiently long time to allow of its being entirely cleared of blood. Then, blanch it for a good half-hour; cool it in cold water; drain it, and rub it with a piece of lemon to avoid its blackening.

If it is to be cooked whole, as sometimes happens, wrap it in a napkin, that it may be easily handled; if not, cut it into pieces. In either case, plunge it immediately into a boiling _blanc_ (No. 167).

With a view of keeping the calf’s head from contact with the air, which would blacken it, cover it with a napkin, or cover the liquid with chopped suet. A layer of chopped suet is the best possible means of keeping the air from the calf’s head.

Whatever be the method of serving calf’s head, it is the rule to send slices of tongue and collops of brain to the table with it.

The tongue may be cooked simultaneously with the head, and the brain is poached as described under No. 1289.

1210—TÊTE DE VEAU A L’ANGLAISE

Calf’s head _à l’anglaise_ is cooked in a _blanc_, as explained above; but in halves and unboned.

Dish it on a napkin with sprays of very green parsley and a piece of boiled bacon.

Send a sauceboat of parsley sauce (No. 119a) to the table at the same time.

1211—TÊTE DE VEAU A LA FINANCIÈRE

Cook the calf’s head in a _blanc_ as already directed. Suppress portions of the meat, where the latter is thick, in such wise as to leave only a very little on the skin.

Cut off pieces into squares of one, two or three in. side; put them in a timbale, and cover them with a financière garnish; adding a few small slices of tongue and brain.

1212—TÊTE DE VEAU A LA POULETTE

Cook the calf’s head in a _blanc_.

Cut the pieces of the head into small slices, somewhat aslant, and toss them into a previously-prepared poulette sauce (No. 101).

Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.

1213—TÊTE DE VEAU EN TORTUE

With a round cutter one, two, or three in. in diameter, cut up the pieces of calf’s head, the meat of which must be entirely suppressed. For this preparation, only the skin of the head should be used.

Put the pieces of head in a timbale or on a dish, and cover them with a Tortue garnish.

_Tortue garnish consists of_: Small quenelles of veal forcemeat with butter; cock’s combs and kidneys; small mushrooms; stoned, stuffed and poached olives; slices of truffle; gherkins cut to the shape of olives (these should only be put into the sauce at the last moment); and Tortue sauce.

This garnish comprises, besides, among unsauced ingredients: Slices of tongue and calf’s brain; small, trussed crayfish, cooked in _court-bouillon_; fried eggs, the half of whose raw whites should be suppressed; and small _croûtons_ of bread-crumb, fried in butter at the last moment.

1214—TÊTE DE VEAU A LA VINAIGRETTE OU A L’HUILE

Set the boiling pieces of calf’s head on a napkin, lying on a dish. Surround them with slices of tongue, collops of brain, and sprigs of very green, curled-leaf parsley.

Serve separately, on a hors-d’œuvre dish, without mixing them, capers, chopped onion and parsley.

Send to the table at the same time a sauceboat of vinaigrette or sauce à l’huile, prepared by mixing one part of vinegar, two parts of oil, and one part of the calf’s-head cooking-liquor, together with the necessary salt and pepper.

1215—ESCALOPES DE VEAU

Collops of veal may be cut from either the fillet or the saddle; but they are more often cut from the cushion. Their weight varies from three to four oz., and they should always be cleared of all connective tissue. They may be fashioned to the shape of ovals, or curve-based triangles, and they should be more or less flattened, according to their use. Thus, when they are to be plainly tossed, to be afterwards served with a sauced garnish or with a sauce, they are simply beaten in order to break the fibres of the meat, without flattening the latter too much; but if, on the contrary, they are to be treated _à l’anglaise_, they should be beaten very thin with the moistened beater.

In either case, they should be cooked somewhat quickly in clarified butter; for, if their cooking lag at all, their meat hardens.

All the garnishes of veal cutlets, and a large number of those of the cushion, may be served with the collops. These garnishes may be set on the same dish with the collops when the latter are plainly tossed; but, in the case of collops treated _à l’anglaise_, the garnish or sauce which accompanies them should be served separately, lest its moisture soften the crisp coating of the collops.

1216—GRENADINS

Grenadins are veal collops larded with rows of very thin bacon strips, and cut somewhat thicker than ordinary collops. They are really small fricandeaux, the braising of which is a comparatively lengthy operation; for their cooking must be the same as that of the fricandeaux, and needs quite as much attention. In order that the grenadins be not too dry, they should be frequently basted with their braising-liquor.

When they are cooked, glaze them rapidly, and dish them with one of the garnishes given for the cushion of veal.

1217—GRENADINS FROIDS EN BELLEVUE

This dish may be prepared in several more or less complicated ways; here is a simple way:—

Take as many shell-shaped hors-d’œuvre dishes as there are grenadins. Let a thin coat of jelly set on the bottom of each, and set thereon a slight decoration composed of bits of carrot, turnip, peas, French beans in lozenge-form, &c. Put a grenadin, larded side undermost (_i.e._, upside down) into each hors-d’œuvre dish; add enough melted aspic jelly to reach half-way up the thickness of the grenadin.

When this jelly has set, lay on it, all round the grenadin, a border consisting of carrots, turnips, French beans and peas. Sprinkle these vegetables with a few drops of jelly, so as to fix them, and keep them from floating, and then fill up the hors-d’œuvre dishes with jelly.

When about to serve, dip the hors-d’œuvre dishes into hot water; turn out the grenadins on a very cold dish, and arrange them on it to form a crown.

Surround with a border of very clear, chopped aspic jelly.

1218—RIS DE VEAU (Sweetbreads)

Veal sweetbreads may be looked upon as one of the greatest delicacies in butchers’ meats, and may be served at any dinner, however sumptuous. Select them very white, entirely free of blood stains, and leave them to soak in fresh water, which should be frequently changed, for as long as possible; or, better still, place them under a running tap.

To _blanch_ them (an operation the purpose of which is to harden the surface) put them in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover them completely, and bring to the boil gently. Let them boil for ten minutes; withdraw them and plunge them into a basin of fresh water.

When the sweetbreads are cold, trim them; that is to say, cut away all cartilaginous and connective tissue; lay them between two pieces of linen, and put them under a light weight for two hours.

Now lard them with fine bacon, tongue or truffle, subject to the way in which they are to be served. They may also be studded with either tongue or truffles, or they may be left unlarded and unstudded, and plainly braised, just as they are.

Certain it is, that neither studding nor larding enhances in any way whatsoever their quality or sightliness.

Veal sweetbread consists of two parts, as unequal in quality as in shape. They are: the “kernel” or heart sweetbread, which is the round and most delicate part, and the “throat,” or throat sweetbread, which is the elongated part, and not of such fine quality as the former.

In a well-ordered dinner, heart sweetbreads only should be used, as far as possible.

There are three ways of cooking sweetbreads, viz.:—Braising (No. 248), poaching (No. 249), and grilling (No. 259). In the following recipes, therefore, the reader will kindly refer to the directions given under one of the numbers just mentioned, according as to whether the dish is to be a braising, a poaching, or a grill.

1219—ATTEREAUX DE RIS DE VEAU A LA VILLEROY

Cut some veal sweetbreads (preferably the throat kind) into roundels one and one-third in. in diameter and one-third in. thick. Prepare an equal number of mushrooms and truffle roundels, somewhat thinner than those of sweetbread.

Impale these roundels on little wooden skewers, the size of matches, and about four in. long; alternating the different products in so doing. Dip these skewers into a Villeroy sauce, and set them on a dish. When the sauce is quite cold, remove the attereaux; clear them of any superfluous sauce that may have fallen on to the dish; dip them in an _anglaise_ (No. 174); roll them in very fine and fresh bread-crumbs, and turn them with the fingers, so as to shape them like small cylinders. Plunge them into plenty of hot fat eight minutes before serving; drain them on a piece of linen; carefully withdraw the wooden skewers and put little silver ones in their place. Dish the attereaux on a folded napkin, with fried parsley in the centre; or set them upright in a circle, on a rice or semolina cushion lying on a dish, and put some very green, fried parsley in the middle.

Serve a Périgueux sauce separately.

1220—CHARTREUSE DE RIS DE VEAU

Prepare (1) one and one-quarter lbs. of fine forcemeat with cream (No. 194); (2) two poached, veal throat sweetbreads, cut into slices; (3) one-half lb. of cooked mushrooms, cut into large slices, and three oz. of sliced truffles; (4) a garnish of carrots and turnips, raised by means of a tube- or spoon-cutter, or cut into grooved roundels two-thirds inch in diameter; and peas and French beans. Each of these vegetables should be cooked in a way befitting its nature, and kept somewhat firm.

Liberally butter a quart Charlotte-mould. Line its bottom and sides with the vegetables, arranged in alternate and vari-coloured rows, and spread thereon a layer of forcemeat, one-half inch thick.

This done, set upon the layer of forcemeat just spread, another of slices of sweetbread, mushrooms, and truffles; cover the whole with a coat of forcemeat; start the operation again with a litter of sweetbread, mushroom, and truffle slices, and proceed as before until the mould is filled. Finish with a layer of forcemeat. Cover with a round piece of buttered paper, and set to poach in a _bain-marie_ and in the oven, for from forty-five to fifty minutes.

When taking the _chartreuse_ out of the _bain-marie_, let it stand for seven or eight minutes, that the ingredients inside may settle a little, and then turn it out in the middle of a round dish; place a large, cooked, grooved, and very white mushroom on the top of it, and encircle its base with a crown of small braised and well-trimmed half-lettuces.

Send to the table, separately, a sauceboat of Velouté flavoured with mushroom essence.

1221—RIS DE VEAU BONNE MAMAN

Cut the vegetables intended for the braising stock into a short and coarse _julienne_, and add thereto an equal quantity of similarly-cut celery.

Braise the veal sweetbreads with this _julienne_, after the manner described under No. 248, and moisten with excellent veal stock. Take particular care of the vegetables, that they do not burn.

When the sweetbreads are ready, glaze them and dish them in a shallow, round _cocotte_ with the _julienne_ of vegetables and the braising-liquor all round.

Cover the _cocotte_, and serve it on a folded napkin.

1222—CRÉPINETTE DE RIS DE VEAU

For this dish take either some white throat sweetbreads, or some remains of the latter, from which slices have already been cut.

Chop up the throat sweetbreads or the remains, together with their weight of raw calf’s udder.

Season with one-half oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper; add five oz. of chopped truffles and two whole eggs per lb. of the mince-meat. Mix the whole well; divide it up into portions weighing three oz., and wrap each portion in a piece of very soft pig’s caul.

Sprinkle with melted butter and bread-crumbs, and grill gently.

Dish in the form of a crown, and serve a Périgueux sauce at the same time.

1223—RIS DE VEAU A LA CÉVENOLE

Braise the veal sweetbreads and glaze them at the last moment.

Dish them with a heap of small glazed onions at either end, and serve, at the same time, a purée of chestnuts and a sauceboat of thickened gravy.

1224—RIS DE VEAU DEMIDOFF

Lard the sweetbreads with bacon and truffles; braise them brown, and only half-cook them. Then place them in a shallow _cocotte_, and surround them with the following garnish:—Two oz. of carrots and the same weight of turnips, both cut into grooved crescents; an equal quantity of small onions, cut into large roundels, and some celery cut _paysanne_-fashion. All these vegetables should be first stewed in butter.

Add the braising-liquor of the sweetbreads, and one oz. of minced truffles, and complete the cooking of the former. Clear of all grease and serve in the _cocotte_.

1225—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU BÉRENGÈRE

Braise the veal sweetbreads and cut each piece into four medium-sized slices. Trim each slice with an even, oval fancy-cutter; and, by means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe, one-sixth inch in diameter, garnish the edge of each slice with a thick border of _mousseline_ forcemeat, combined with chopped salted tongue. Set the slices on a tray, and put them in a moderate oven to poach the forcemeat.

Now, by means of another piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, garnish the centre of the slices with a nice rosette of fine and very white Soubise purée; and, in the middle of each rosette, place a little ball of very black truffle.

Set each slice on a thin, oval _croûton_ of the same size as the former and fried in butter. Serve at the same time, in a sauceboat, the braising-liquor of the sweetbreads, cleared of all grease, and a timbale of fresh peas.

1226—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU A LA FAVORITE

_Blanch_ the veal sweetbreads; cool them under pressure, and cut them into slices. Season the latter and toss them in clarified butter.

At the same time, toss an equal number of slices of foie gras of the same size as those of the sweetbread, after having seasoned and dredged them.

Dish in a circle, alternating the foie gras and the sweetbread slices; put a crown of sliced truffle on the circle already arranged; and, in the centre, pour a garnish of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.

Send, separately, a Madeira sauce flavoured with truffle essence.

1227—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU GRAND DUC

_Blanch_ and cool the sweetbreads, and cut them into slices. Season the latter and cook them in butter without colouration. Dish them in the form of a crown, placing a large slice of truffle between each; coat with Mornay sauce, and glaze quickly.

When taking the dish out of the oven, arrange a heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter, in the middle of the dish, and serve instantly.

1228—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU JUDIC

_Blanch_ and cool the sweetbreads, and cut them into slices.

Prepare and poach a roll of chicken forcemeat, large enough to allow of slices being cut therefrom of the same size as those of the sweetbreads.

Season, dredge, and toss the slices of sweetbread in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown, each on a roundel of the poached chicken forcemeat.

On each slice place a very small, braised, and well-trimmed lettuce, a slice of truffle, and a cock’s kidney.

Send a sauceboat of thickened gravy separately.

1229—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU A LA MARÉCHALE

Braise the veal sweetbreads, keeping them somewhat firm, and cut them into slices.

Treat the latter _à l’anglaise_; brown them in clarified butter, and dish them in a circle, placing a fine slice of truffle between each.

In the middle of the dish arrange a fine heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.

1230—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉS

After having _blanched_, cooked, and trimmed the sweetbreads, set them to get quite cold under pressure. Then cut them in two, laterally, at their thickest point; dip each piece into melted butter, and grill gently, basting frequently the while with melted butter.

The sweetbreads may also be grilled whole, but the process is perforce a more lengthy one.

1231—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉS CARMAGO

Cook a brioche, without sugar, in a fluted mould, the aperture of which is a little larger than the veal sweetbreads. Carefully remove the top of the brioche, following the direction of the fluting, and withdraw all the crumb from the inside.

Fill this kind of _croustade_, two-thirds full, with a garnish consisting of peas, prepared “à la française,” and carrots “à la Vichy,” in equal quantities.

Set the grilled veal sweetbreads on this garnish, and cover it with slices of grilled bacon.

Dish on a napkin and serve at once.

1232—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉ GISMONDA

Prepare a shallow _croustade_, without colouration, in an oval flawn ring of the same length as the veal sweetbread. Grill the veal sweetbread after the manner already described.

Garnish the bottom of the _croustade_ with equal quantities of artichoke-bottoms and mushrooms, minced raw, tossed in butter, and cohered with cream sauce.

Set the grilled sweetbread on the garnish, and place the _croustade_ on a folded napkin.

Serve, separately, a slightly buttered meat-glaze.

1233—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉ JOCELYNE

Cut some potatoes into roundels one and one-half inch thick and of the same size as the veal sweetbread. Stamp the roundels, close up to their edges, with a round, even cutter, and cook them in butter. Grill the sweetbread at the same time.

When the potatoes are cooked, withdraw all their inside in such wise as to give them the appearance of cases, and fill them with Soubise prepared with curry.

Dish them and set the grilled sweetbread upon them. On the sweetbread lay a small half-tomato and a green half-capsicum, both grilled.

1234—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉS SAINT-GERMAIN

_Blanch_, prepare, and grill the veal sweetbreads as already explained. Set them on a long dish, and surround them with alternate heaps of small potatoes cooked in butter and of a nice golden colour, and carrots cut to the shape of elongated olives, cooked in consommé and glazed.

Serve a Béarnaise sauce and a purée of fresh peas, separately.

1235—RIS DE VEAU DES GOURMETS

Braise the veal sweetbreads, and, as soon as they are ready, set them in a round, flat _cocotte_, just large enough to hold them. Cover them with raw truffles, cut into thick slices; strain the braising-liquor over the whole; cover the _cocotte_, and seal the cover to the edges of the utensil by means of a thread of soft paste, made simply from a mixture of flour and water.

The object of this last precaution is to prevent any escape whatsoever of steam, and to hold the aroma of the truffles within.

Put the _cocotte_ into a very hot oven for ten minutes; set it on a dish, and serve it as it stands. The cover should be removed only when the dish reaches the table.

1236—RIS DE VEAU AUX QUEUES D’ÉCREVISSES

Stud the sweetbreads with truffle and braise them without colouration. Dish them, and, on either side, set a heap of crayfishes’ tails (in the proportion of four to each person), cohered with cream.

At either end place some crayfishes’ carapaces (in the proportion of two to each sweetbread), garnished with chicken forcemeat combined with crayfish butter, and poached.

Serve, separately, an Allemande sauce prepared with crayfish butter.

1237—RIS DE VEAU A LA RÉGENCE

Stud the sweetbreads with truffles, and braise them without colouration.

Dish them; pour their reduced braising-liquor round the dish, and surround them with a Régence garnish, arranged in alternate heaps representing the constituents of the former, which are: quenelles of fine truffled chicken forcemeat; small grooved mushrooms; curled cocks’ combs, and truffles cut to the shape of olives. Serve separately an Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence.

1238—RIS DE VEAU SOUS LA CENDRE

Stud the veal sweetbreads with truffles and tongue, and three-parts braise them.

Cut some slices of salted tongue of the same size as the sweetbreads, garnish them with slices of truffle, and set a sweetbread on each.

Cover each sweetbread with a layer of short paste (No. 2358); set them on a tray; _gild_; flute; make a small incision on the top of the paste to allow the escape of steam, and bake in a hot oven for thirty minutes.

When withdrawing them from the oven, pour in some half-glaze sauce with Madeira, and dish them on a napkin.

1239—RIS DE VEAU A LA TOULOUSAINE

Stud the sweetbreads with truffles and braise them without colouration.

Dish them with the Toulousaine garnish, arranged in heaps all round, and surround the latter with a thread of meat-glaze.

_Toulousaine garnish_ comprises small chicken-forcemeat quenelles; cocks’ combs and kidneys; very white button-mushroom heads, and slices of truffle.

Serve, separately, an Allemande flavoured with mushroom essence.

1240—CROUSTADE DE RIS DE VEAU A LA FINANCIÈRE

Prepare (1) the required number of small, fluted _croustades_, baked without colouration in rather large tartlet moulds. (2) The same number of slices of braised veal sweetbread as there are _croustades_, and of the same size. (3) A financière garnish, consisting of very small chicken-forcemeat quenelles; grooved button-mushrooms, and sliced cocks’ combs and kidneys. The whole covered by half-glaze with Madeira, in the proportion of one tablespoonful per _croustade_. (5) As many fine slices of truffle as there are _croustades_.

Put a tablespoonful of the garnish into each _croustade_; set thereon a slice of sweetbread; put a slice of truffle upon that, and dish the _croustades_ on a folded napkin.

1241—PÂTÉ CHAUD DE RIS DE VEAU

Butter an ordinary round hot raised pie, or a Charlotte-mould. Take about one and one-half lbs. of short paste and roll it into _galettes_, one-third inch thick; fold the paste over after having dredged it slightly; draw the two ends gently towards the centre, to form a kind of skullcap, which, when placed in the mould, immediately lines the latter. Avoid making folds in the paste while preparing the skullcap, for they would spoil the look of the patty when turned out.

Press the paste on the bottom and sides of the mould, that the latter may impart its shape to its lining, and cut the projecting paste to within half inch of the brim. Now coat the bottom and sides of the mould with a layer of chicken forcemeat, of an even thickness of two-thirds of an inch.

Pour into the centre of the mould a garnish composed of slices of poached veal sweetbread; sliced and cooked mushrooms and sliced truffles; the whole covered with reduced and somewhat stiff Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence.

Cover the garnish with a coating of forcemeat, and close the patty with a layer of paste, the edges of which should be moistened and sealed down all round the brim of the mould. Pinch the rim of paste inside and outside, and finish off with leaves of paste stamped out with a fancy-cutter, ribbed by means of the back of a knife, and laid upon the paste cover. _Gild_ with beaten egg; make a central slit for the escape of steam, and set to bake in a hot oven, for from forty-five to fifty minutes.

When taking the patty out of the oven, turn it out and dish it on a napkin.

1242—TIMBALE DE RIS DE VEAU

Butter a timbale mould and decorate its sides with thin pieces of noodle paste, in the shape of lozenges, crescents, indented rings, discs and imitation-leaves. Excellent ornamental arrangements may be effected thus; but the reader should bear in mind that the simplest are the best.

Prepare a skullcap of paste as explained under No. 1241; slightly moisten the ornamental work in the mould, that it may cling to the paste of the timbale, and line the latter with paste which should be well pressed in all directions, that it may take the shape of the mould.

Then pierce the paste on the bottom, to prevent its blistering during the baking process; line the bottom and sides with buttered paper, and fill the timbale, three-quarters full, with split peas or lentils.

Cover the latter with a round piece of paper, and close the timbale by means of a round layer of paste, which should be sealed down round the edges. Make and trim the crest of the timbale; pinch it inside and out, and finish the cover, by means of applied imitation-leaves of paste, superposed to form a kind of dome.

Set in a moderate oven, and when the timbale is baked, remove its cover with the view of withdrawing the lentils or peas and the paper, the sole object of which was to provide a support for the cover. Besmear the inside of the timbale with a brush dipped in the beaten white of an egg; keep it for a minute or two in front of the oven, with the view of drying it inside; turn it out, and spread upon its bottom and sides a very thin coat of chicken or ordinary forcemeat, the purpose of which is to shield the crust from the softening effects of the juices of the garnish.

Put the timbale in the front of the oven for a moment or two, that this coating of forcemeat may poach.

_Garnish._—Veal sweetbreads, braised without colouration and cut into collops; small mushrooms; cocks’ combs and kidneys; small quenelles of chicken, _mousseline_ forcemeat, or roundels of chicken forcemeat rolls one-third inch thick, trimmed with the fancy-cutter; and slices of truffles, half of which should be kept for the purposes of decoration.

Cover this garnish with Allemande sauce, prepared with mushroom essence. Pour it into the timbale, just before serving; upon it set the reserved slices of truffle, in the form of a crown; replace the cover; dish upon a folded napkin, and serve.

N.B. (1) As already stated the garnish of the timbale may be cohered with a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with Madeira or truffle essence.

(2) In this garnish, whether it be cohered by means of a white or brown sauce, the slices of veal sweetbreads are always the principal ingredient; but, subject to the circumstances, the other details may be altered or modified.

1243—VOL AU VENT DE RIS DE VEAU

Vol au vent, which formerly held the place of honour on bourgeois menus, has now fallen somewhat into the background; nevertheless, I wished it to appear among the recipes in this work.

_The preparation of the paste_: Make the vol au vent crust as explained under No. 2390.

_Garnish._—Prepare it exactly as explained under “Timbale de ris de Veau.” This garnish may also be cohered with a brown sauce, and its minor ingredients may be modified; but the slices of veal sweetbread must always stand as the dominating element.

Whatever be the selected kind of garnish, vol au vent should always be accompanied by medium-sized, trussed crayfish, cooked in _court-bouillon_.

_Dishing._—Set the vol au vent crust upon a dish covered with a napkin; pour the garnish into it; decorate with slices of truffle; arrange the crayfish round the edge, and lay the cover upon the crayfish.

1244—RIS DE VEAU A LA RICHELIEU

Braise the veal sweetbreads exactly as described under “Ris de Veau Bonne Maman,” taking care to keep the braising-liquor sufficiently plentiful to well cover the sweetbreads in the _cocotte_.

When the sweetbreads are in the _cocotte_, together with the _julienne_ of vegetables and a _julienne_ of truffles, strain the braising-liquor over the whole; leave to cool well, and, when the liquid has turned to a jelly, remove the grease that has risen to the surface.

Dish the _cocotte_ on a napkin.

1245—RIS DE VEAU A LA SUÉDOISE

Poach the veal sweetbreads without colouration, and, when they are quite cold, cut them into thin and regular collops. Spread some horse-radish butter over the latter, and cover with a slice of tongue of the same size as the underlying collop.

Bake a crust without colouration in a flawn ring, of a size in proportion to the number of slices, and garnish it with a vegetable salad cohered with mayonnaise. This crust must necessarily be made in advance.

Upon the salad now set the collops, either in the form of a crown or in that of a small turban; in the middle place a fine lettuce heart, the leaves of which should be slightly opened out.

1246—PALETS DE RIS DE VEAU A L’ÉCARLATE

Poach the sweetbreads; when they are cold, cut them into collops half-an-inch thick, and trim them with a round, even cutter. Stamp out some roundels of salted tongue with the same cutter, but let them be only one-eighth inch thick, and twice as many as the collops of veal sweetbread.

Coat the latter, on either side, with butter prepared with mustard; and cover with a roundel of tongue.

Set the prepared collops on a tray; let the butter harden, coat with jelly, and deck the middle of each quoit with a fine slice of truffle.

Arrange the quoits in a circle on a round dish; put some chopped jelly in the centre, and border the dish with very regularly-cut jelly dice.

Serve a horse-radish sauce and an Italian salad separately.