Iced Mousses.

The composition for _mousses_ is prepared either from English cream or from syrup. The last method is specially suited to fruit _mousses_.

2915—PREPARATION FOR ICED FRUIT MOUSSES

This is a cold syrup at 35°, to which is added an equal quantity of a purée of the fruit under treatment, and twice that amount of very stiff Chantilly cream.

2916—PREPARATION OF ICED MOUSSE WITH CREAM

Make an English cream from one lb. of powdered sugar, sixteen egg-yolks, and one pint of milk, and leave it to cool.

When it is quite cold, add to it one pint of raw cream, two-thirds oz. of powdered tragacanth gum, and the flavour which is to characterise the preparation.

If the _mousse_ be a fruit one, add to it one pint of a purée of fresh fruit.

Whisk over ice, until the preparation gets very frothy; put it into moulds, lined with white paper; thoroughly close them, and keep them in a refrigerator for two or three hours, subject to their size.

2917—VARIOUS ICED MOUSSES

After the same procedure, _mousses_ may be prepared with Anisette, Coffee, Chocolate, Kirsch, Maraschino, Rum, Tea, etc.; Apricots, Strawberries, Oranges and Tangerines, fresh Walnuts, Peaches, Vanilla, Violets, etc.

2918—PARFAIT (Generic Recipe)

Mix thirty egg-yolks with one quart of cold syrup at 28°. Put the mixture on a slow fire, and cook it as for an English cream; strain it, and whisk it on ice until it is quite cold.

Add three pints of very stiff, whisked cream and one-fifth pint of brandy or rum, in order to finish it; mould the preparation in Parfait moulds, and pack them in a freezer for from two to three hours.

N.B.—The term “Parfait,” which, formerly, was applied only to “Parfait au Café,” has become the common name for un-_clothed_ ices, made from Bombe-preparations having but one flavour. And this is fairly logical, seeing that Bombe-preparations, but for a few insignificant distinctions, are exactly like Parfait-preparation.

It is therefore just as reasonable to make vanilla, chocolate, and _pralined_ Parfaits, etc., as to make them with coffee.

2919—ICED PUDDINGS

Preparations of this class follow no hard and fast rules, and, in reality, they are not ices at all. They are nothing else than iced entremets, the bases of which generally consist of thick English custard, the same as that which serves in the preparation of Bavarois.

The few following recipes, however, are exceptions to this rule.

2920—PUDDING DE CASTRIES

_Clothe_ a Bombe mould with a thin layer of vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with two Bombe-preparations, spread in somewhat thick, alternate layers. One of the preparations should be of vanilla, on each thickness of which a layer of lady’s-finger biscuits, cut into dice and sprinkled with Anisette, should be spread; and the other preparation should be of tangerine.

Between the layers, sprinkle a few pinches of grated chocolate, and fill up the mould with a thickness of vanilla ice-cream.

Thoroughly close the utensil; pack it for about two or three hours. Turn it out on a folded napkin; sprinkle thereon a few red, crushed _pralins_; and serve an iced tangerine syrup separately.

2921—MARIE-ROSE PUDDING

Line a Charlotte mould with rolled _gaufrettes_; placing them snugly one against the other. By means of a piping-bag, fill the _gaufrettes_ with very stiff strawberry ice, and then fill the mould with a vanilla _pralined_ Bombe-preparation. Keep the mould in the refrigerator for three hours, and turn out the pudding on a napkin. Decorate it on top with pink and white Chantilly cream. Serve a chocolate ice-cream separately.

2922—PUDDING MIRAMAR

Garnish an iced, _Madeleine-mould_ with lady’s-finger biscuits, saturated with Chartreuse, and alternate them with thin slices of fresh pine-apple, saturated in Kirsch, and pipped sections of tangerine, skinned raw.

Fill up the mould with a Bombe-preparation of pomegranate juice, flavoured with Kirsch; close the mould, keep it in ice for two hours, and turn out the pudding on a napkin when about to serve.

Serve an iced, vanilla syrup separately.

2923—PUDDING SEYMOUR

Cut a _Mousseline_ Brioche into thin slices, and set these to soak in raw, sweetened and Kirsch-flavoured cream. Peel and finely slice some peaches, and poach them in vanilla-flavoured syrup; also peel some very ripe William pears.

Prepare a pink Bombe-preparation, flavoured with Kirsch and _Orgeat_; and then fill up the mould with alternate layers of the slices of Brioche and of fruit, with Bar red-currant jam added; and the Bombe-preparation.

Close the mould, keep it in ice for two hours, and turn out the pudding on a napkin.

2924—ICED SOUFFLÉES

The preparation differs according as to whether the _Soufflés_ be prepared with fruit, or with such flavours as Vanilla, Coffee, Chocolate, etc.

The last named are made with the Iced-_Mousse_ preparation (No. 2916), which may also serve for the fruit _Soufflés_; but, in the case of the latter, the following preparation is preferable:—

Whisk the whites of ten eggs to a very stiff froth, and add to this one and one-tenth lbs. of sugar cooked to the _small-crack_ stage. Transfer the whole to a basin; flavour according to fancy, and add one pint of a purée of fruit and one pint of very stiffly-whisked cream.

2925—THE MOULDING OF LARGE AND SMALL ICED SOUFFLÉS

Mould the large ones in ordinary _Soufflé_ timbales, which should be lined with bands of white paper, fixed with butter, and overreaching the edges of the timbales by one and a half to two inches, that the preparation, in projecting above the brims of the utensils, may appear like a _Soufflé_ when the paper is removed.

The small _Soufflés_ are moulded in cases or in small silver _cassolettes_, which are likewise wrapped in bands of paper, that the preparation may rise above their brims. As soon as they are moulded, put the _Soufflés_ in a very cold refrigerator; and when about to serve them, carefully remove the bands of paper which, once the preparation has solidified, have served their purpose; and dish the cases or silver _cassolettes_ on a napkin or on a carved block of ice.

Like the Bombes, and the Iced Biscuits, Iced _Soufflés_ may be indefinitely varied, owing to the multitudinous combinations to which they lend themselves.

2926—SORBETS (Sherbets)

Sherbets and their derivative preparations consist of very light and barely-congealed ices, served after the Entrées. They serve in freshening the stomach; preparing it to properly receive the roast.

They are at once appetisers and helps to digestion.

2927—PREPARATION FOR SORBETS

Sherbets are made from any liqueur ice preparation at 15°; or they may be prepared as follows:—For one quart of preparation, take the juice of two lemons and one orange, half-a-pint of port wine, of Samos wine, of Sauterne, or other good wine; and add cold syrup at 22°, until the saccharometer registers 15°.

For liqueur sherbets, allow about one-fifth pint of liqueur per quart of the preparation; but remember that this is subject to the kind of liqueur used. For the quantity just prescribed, use syrup at 18° or 19°, which the subsequent addition of liqueur reduces to the proper degree. Whatever be the kind of liqueur, the latter should only be added when the Sherbet is completely frozen; that is to say at the last moment.

Fruit Sorbets are generally prepared from the juices and syrups of aqueous fruits. Fruit purées are scarcely suited to this mode of procedure, and they are only resorted to in exceptional cases.

_The Freezing of Sherbets._—Pour the preparation into the turbine or the freezer, which should have been previously packed, and keep the utensil on the move. Remove portions of the preparation from the sides of the receptacle as fast as they adhere thereto, and mix them with the whole, until the latter is completely congealed; remembering not to stir at all during the freezing process. When the preparation is firm enough, mix with it, gently, the quarter of its weight of Italian _meringue_ or very stiffly whipped cream; and finish by the addition of the liqueur.

_The Dishing of Sherbets._—Take some of the Sherbet preparation in a spoon, and set it in Sherbet or Sherry glasses, shaping it to a point.

When the Sherbet is prepared with wine, sprinkle the preparation when it is in the glasses with a tablespoonful of the selected wine.

The consistence of a Sherbet, of what kind soever, should be such as to allow of its being drunk.

2928—VARIOUS SORBETS

Having pointed out that Sherbets may be prepared from the juices of every fruit such as Pine-apple, Cherries, Strawberries, Raspberries, Red-currants, etc., and from every wine and liqueur such as Port, Samos wine, Marsala, Johannisberg, Rum, Kirsch, Liqueur-Brandy, etc., and since the procedure is the same in every case, there is no need to devote a special article to each.

2929—SORBET A LA SICILIENNE

Keep a very green water melon in the refrigerator for three hours.

One hour before serving, open it on top, as directed under “Surprise Melon,” and withdraw the seeds.

Then, detach the pulp by means of a silver spoon, without withdrawing it from the fruit; sprinkle it with Maraschino, and put the whole back into the refrigerator.

Dish on fragmented ice or on a block of the latter, and serve the pulp before the diners in Sherbet glasses.

2930—GRANITÉS

Granités answer the same purpose as Sherbets, while they may also be introduced into certain culinary preparations.

The bases of these preparations consist of very thin syrups made from fruit juices, and not overreaching fourteen degrees (saccharometer).

Granités consist only of iced syrups, and are not combined with any Italian or other _meringue_.

As in the case of the Sherbets, but more particularly in regard to these, the operator should remember not to stir the syrup during the freezing process, lest it turn; and, when it is congealed, it should form a light, granulated mass.

2931—MARQUISES

Marquises are generally made from strawberries or pine-apple, with Kirsch. The preparation is that of a Sherbet with Kirsch, registering 17° by the saccharometer. The freezing is done as for Granités; but it should be carried a little further.

When about to serve, mix the preparation per pint thereof with half a pint of very stiff Chantilly cream, combined with a strawberry or pine-apple purée, subject to the designation of the Marquise.

2932—PUNCH A LA ROMAINE

Mix sufficient dry white wine, or dry champagne, with one pint of syrup at 22°, to reduce the latter to 17°; add the juice of two oranges and two lemons, a strip of orange and lemon _zest_, and let infusion proceed for one hour.

Strain the syrup and bring it to 18°.

Freeze in the freezer, until it is somewhat stiff, and mix it with the quarter of its volume of Italian _meringue_ (prepared from two egg-whites and three and a half oz. of sugar).

When about to serve, complete with one-fifth pint of Rum, added little by little.

Serve the preparation in glasses, after the style of the Sherbets.

N.B.—For all Sherbets and Punches, one quart of the finished preparation should be allowed for every ten people.

2933—SPOOMS

Spoom is a kind of Sherbet prepared from a syrup at 20°. Add to it twice as much Italian _meringue_ as was added to the Sherbets. Do not work it too briskly, that it may remain very light and frothy.

Spooms are made from fruit juices; but more often from such wines as Champagne, Samos, Muscat, Zucco, etc.

Serve it in glasses like the Sherbets.

CHAPTER XXII

DRINKS AND REFRESHMENTS

N.B.—The quantities given below are calculated to be sufficient for fifteen glassfuls.

2934—BAVAROISE

Work eight oz. of powdered sugar with eight egg-yolks in a saucepan, until the whole becomes white and reaches the _ribbon_ stage. Then add consecutively: one-fifth pint of capillary syrup, one pint of freshly made, boiling hot tea, and the same amount of boiling milk; whisking briskly the while, that the drink may be very frothy. Complete at the last moment with one-third pint of the liqueur which is to characterise the Bavaroise, _i.e._, either Kirsch or Rum.

If the Bavaroise be flavoured with vanilla, orange or lemon, let the flavour infuse in the milk for fifteen minutes beforehand. If it be flavoured with chocolate, dissolve six oz. of the latter, and add the milk to it, flavoured with vanilla.

If it be coffee-flavoured, set three oz. of freshly-torrified and _concassed_ coffee to infuse in the milk or flavour with one pint of freshly-made coffee.

Bavaroise is served in special glasses, and it must be frothy.

2935—BISCHOFF

Put into a basin one bottleful of Champagne, one Sherry-glassful of “tilleul” infusion, one orange and one lemon, cut into thin slices, and enough syrup at 32° to bring the preparation to 18°. Let maceration proceed in the cool for an hour. This done, strain the whole; freeze it like a Granité, and finish it with four liqueur-glassfuls of liqueur-brandy.

Serve in bumpers.

2936—ICED COFFEE

Pour one and a half pints of boiling water, gradually, over ten oz. of freshly-ground coffee, and strain it gently. Put this coffee into a bowl with 20 oz. of loaf-sugar, and let the latter dissolve while the coffee cools. Then add one quart of very cold, boiled milk, in which half a stick of vanilla should have infused, and one pint of very fresh cream.

Freeze the whole in a freezer, taking care to keep the preparation almost liquid, and serve it in very cold cups.

2937—LEMONADE

Dissolve half-lb. of loaf-sugar in one quart of filtered water. Add the juice and the _zests_ of the rinds of two lemons, and let infusion proceed in the cool for three hours. Pass the whole through a fine strainer; add one syphonful of seltzer water, and serve with a thin roundel of lemon in each glass.

2938—PINEAPPLE WATER

Finely chop one and a half lbs. of fresh or preserved pineapple; put it into a basin and pour over it one quart of boiling syrup at 20°. Let it cool, and infuse for two hours.

Strain through a woollen bag; add a piece of ice and sufficient seltzer water to reduce the liquid to 9°. Keep the preparation in the cool for a further twenty minutes, and complete it, when about to serve, with three liqueur-glassfuls of Kirsch.

2939—CHERRY WATER

Stone two lbs. of very ripe cherries, and rub them through a sieve. Put the purée into a basin with the stones, crushed in the mortar, and let the whole macerate for one hour. Then moisten with one pint of filtered water, and strain the juice through a woollen bag, or muslin folded in two and stretched.

Add a piece of well-washed ice and six oz. of loaf-sugar, and put the whole in the cool for twenty minutes. Flavour, when about to serve, with four liqueur-glassfuls of Kirsch.

The saccharometer should register 9° when inserted into this preparation.

2940—RASPBERRY-FLAVOURED, RED-CURRANT WATER

Rub through a sieve, over a basin, twelve oz. of red and white currants, and four oz. of very ripe raspberries. Add to the currant-water one pint of filtered water, six oz. of loaf-sugar, and one piece of washed ice. Keep the whole in the cool for twenty minutes, and stir it from time to time with a silver spoon, that the sugar may dissolve.

Degree the same as in No. 2939.

2941—MELONADE

Rub one lb. of just-ripe melon pulp through a sieve. Put it into a basin and pour over it one pint of boiling syrup at 20°. Let the whole cool and infuse for two hours, and strain it through muslin or through a woollen bag. Add a piece of very clean ice and sufficient seltzer water to reduce the syrup to 9°. Keep the preparation in the cool for a further twenty minutes, and finish it, when about to serve, with two tablespoonfuls of orange-flower water.

2942—KALTSCHALE

Peel and slice one-half lb. of peaches and an equal quantity of pineapple; add four oz. of ripe, melon pulp, cut into dice, and four oz. of a mixture of raspberries and red and white currants, cleared of their stalks. Put these fruits in a silver timbale and keep the latter on ice. Set a little cinnamon to infuse in a half-bottleful of boiling, white wine; add six oz. of sugar and the _zest_ of one lemon; and let the whole cool. Then add half a pint of a mixed purée of strawberries and red-currants to this infusion.

Filter the whole, and complete it by the addition of a bottle of champagne.

Pour this preparation over the fruit, and serve the timbale very cold.

2943—ORANGEADE

Proceed as for lemonade, but use the juice and _zests_ of orange rinds instead of those of lemons, and the juice of only half a lemon. Put very thin slices of orange in the glasses.

2944—PUNCH WITH KIRSCH

Throw a good half oz. of tea into one quart of boiling water, and let it infuse for ten minutes. Put into a punch or salad-bowl one lb. of loaf-sugar; strain the infusion of tea over the sugar, and dissolve the latter; stirring the while with a silver spoon.

Add one and a half pints of Kirsch, set it alight, and serve in glasses.

2945—PUNCH WITH RUM

Make an infusion as above, with the same amount of tea and one quart of boiling water. Strain it over one lb. of loaf-sugar, in a punch-bowl, and let the sugar dissolve.

Add a few thin slices of lemon, and one and a half pints of rum, and set light to it. Serve with a slice of lemon in each glass.

2946—PUNCH MARQUISE

Put into a small, copper saucepan one quart of Sauterne wine, half-lb. of loaf-sugar, and the _zest_ of the rind of one lemon bound round a clove. Dissolve the sugar; heat the wine until it becomes covered by thin white froth, and pour it into a punch-bowl after having withdrawn the _zest_ and the clove.

Add half a pint of burnt brandy; set it alight and let it burn itself out.

Serve with a thin slice of lemon in each glass.

2947—ICED PUNCH

Prepare a Marquise Punch as above; when the wine is hot, take it off the fire; throw in a good half oz. of tea, and let the whole infuse under cover for ten minutes.

Pass the whole through a fine strainer; add one orange and one lemon, peeled raw and cut into slices, and some heated rum. Set alight; leave to cool, and reduce to 15°. Then freeze like a Granité, and serve in glasses.

2948—HOT WINE

Pour one bottleful of red wine over ten oz. of loaf-sugar, set in a small, copper basin. Dissolve the sugar. Add one orange _zest_, a bit of cinnamon and mace, and one clove. Heat the wine until it is covered by thin froth, and then pass it through a fine strainer.

Serve with a thin slice of lemon in each glass.

2949—HOT WINE WITH ORANGE

Pour half a pint of boiling water over ten oz. of loaf sugar. Add the _zest_ of one orange and let infusion proceed for fifteen minutes. Withdraw the _zest_, and mix one bottleful of heated Burgundy wine with the infusion.

Serve with a roundel of orange in each glass.

2950—WINE A LA FRANÇAISE

Put eight oz. of sugar into a salad-bowl, and sprinkle thereon a few tablespoonfuls of water, that it may dissolve. Add one bottleful of excellent Bordeaux wine or red Burgundy, and the half of a lemon cut into thin slices. Stir the whole well with a silver spoon and serve with a slice of lemon in each glass.

N.B.—Always remember to free the lemons and oranges used of all pips, which would lend a bitterness to the drink.

2951—CLARET CUP

Put into a crystal bowl one oz. of loaf-sugar, the rind of one lemon and three slices of the latter, an equal quantity of orange, one strip of cucumber peel, one tablespoonful of Angostura Bitter, and a liqueur-glassful of each of the following liqueurs:—Brandy, Maraschino and white Curaçao.

Complete with one and a half bottles of red wine and a bottle of Soda. Cover and let the whole infuse. Strain, add a few pieces of very clean ice and a few leaves of fresh mint.

CHAPTER XXIII

FRUIT-STEWS AND JAMS

2952—PLAIN STEWED FRUIT

Fruit for stewing is used whole, halved or quartered, and cooked or poached in a syrup, of a flavour in keeping with the fruit.

Dish these preparations in tazzas, bowls or deep dishes; cover them with their syrup, reduced or not; and, in certain cases, thicken the latter with arrowroot. They may be served hot or cold; but in any case, the fruit used should not be too ripe.

2953—MIXED STEWED FRUIT

These preparations generally consist of stewed, fresh fruit of one or several kinds; combined with fruit purées.

Quince and apple jellies are greatly used, either in coating the preparations or in bordering them with dice, &c.

With this class of stewed fruits, which are merely a matter of fancy and taste, candied and preserved fruits are almost always used as auxiliary constituents.

Under this generic title the following preparations are classed:—

(1) Those in which the fruit is treated directly with the sugar:— (2) Those in which the juice alone, owing to its gelatinous nature, produces, together with the sugar, consistent jellies.

The amount of sugar used is subject to the nature of the fruit and its sweetness; but in the case of nearly all tart fruits, the weight of sugar should equal that of the fruit, or nearly so.

If too much sugar be used, the flavour is impaired; while crystallisation will follow very shortly afterwards; if too little be used, the jam has to be overcooked in order to be made sufficiently consistent, and the flavour is once more impaired by protracted evaporation; finally if the time allowed for cooking be inadequate, rapid fermentation will be the result.

In making jam, therefore, the operator should base his measure of sugar upon the nature of the fruit he intends treating.

2955—THE COOKING, POTTING, AND SEALING OF JAMS

The time allowed for cooking any jam whatsoever can only be approximately decided, and it is a gross mistake to suppose the case otherwise, since the matter is wholly dependent upon the intensity of the fire, and the resulting speed of the evaporation of the vegetable moisture. Theoretically, a jam is all the better for having been cooked quickly, seeing that it may thus more easily preserve its colour and flavour.

For all that, unless great care and attention be exercised, a whole-fruit jam ought not to be made on a too violent fire, lest it burn. Conversely, when jellies are in question, wherein the juice alone of the fruit is treated, the fire should be as intense as possible; in order that the required degree of consistence, which marks the close of the operation, may be reached as speedily as possible.

The degree of consistence is the same for all jellies, and may be ascertained thus: when the steam given off by the preparation loses its density, and the boiling movement becomes perceptible, it may be concluded that evaporation has ceased, and that the real cooking-process, which is very rapid, has begun. At this stage frequently take the skimmer out of the saucepan.

The jam adhering to it falls off, at first very quickly; then, in a few minutes, it is seen to accumulate towards the centre of the skimmer and to fall therefrom slowly at lengthy intervals, in large drops.

This stage, which is indubitably indicative of the cooking being at an end, is called the “_nappe_” and is equivalent to the _large-thread stage_ in the cooking of sugar; and, as soon as it is reached the jam should be taken off the fire. Allow it to cool for seven or eight minutes, and pour it into pots, which, if of glass, should be gradually heated, lest they crack.

The following day, set a round piece of white paper saturated with rectified glycerine, on each pot, and drop these pieces of paper directly upon the jam. Rectified glycerine will be found preferable by far to the commonly-used sugared brandy.

Then close the pots with a double sheet of paper, fastened on with string, and place them somewhere in the dry.

2956—APRICOT JAM

Cut the apricots in two, and use very ripe fruit, grown in the open, if possible. Break the stones, skin the almonds, and cut them in two. Allow three-quarters lb. of loaf-sugar per lb. of fruit. Put this sugar in a preserving pan with one-third pint of water per two lbs. of sugar, and, when the latter is dissolved, boil for a few minutes, carefully skimming the while. Add the apricots, set the whole to cook on a moderate fire, and stir incessantly, especially towards the end, when the jam is more particularly prone to burn on the bottom of the saucepan. Take the jam off the fire as soon as it reaches the “_nappe_” stage, as explained above, and mix the almonds with the jam.

2957—CHERRY JAM

Stone the cherries, and allow one and a half lbs. of loaf-sugar per two lbs. of the fruit; taking care to have equal weights of sugar and fruit if the latter be not over sweet. Put the sugar in the preserving pan; moisten it with water that it may dissolve, and boil it for five minutes, skimming carefully the while. Add the cherries and a half-pint of red-currant juice, and cook over a fierce fire until the _“nappe” stage_ is reached.

_Remarks_:—(1) The addition of red-currant juice is advocated for this jam, seeing that by ensuring the proper consistence it obviates prolonged cooking; and, as I have already pointed out, red fruit is all the better, and preserves a more perfect colour, when it is cooked rapidly.

(2) When the fruit begins to boil, carefully skim it, otherwise the scum hardens, and not only spoils the jam but often sets it fermenting.

2958—STRAWBERRY JAM

This is one of the most difficult jams to make. There are several ways of preparing it, and the one I give strikes me as the quickest and simplest. Clean the fruit, which should be just ripe. Only wash it when absolutely necessary, as, for instance, when mould has stuck to it.

Allow twelve oz. of sugar per lb. of fruit. Put this sugar in a preserving pan, sprinkle it with water that it may dissolve, and cook it to the _large-ball stage_ (see No. 2344), taking care to skim thoroughly when boiling begins. Throw the strawberries into the sugar, and set the preserving pan on the side of the fire for seven or eight minutes; that is to say, until the moisture of the fruit has dissolved the sugar to a syrup.

Return the saucepan to a fierce fire, and cook the strawberries for ten or twelve minutes, remembering to carefully remove the scum that forms.

Then withdraw the strawberries by means of a slice and drain them in a basin. Continue cooking the syrup rapidly, until the _“nappe” stage_ shows signs of appearing, then return the strawberries for five minutes; that is to say, until the _“nappe” stage_ is completely reached.

Fill the pots, little by little, that the strawberries may be well distributed in them and not rise in a mass to the top, as often happens when the receptacles are filled too quickly.

2959—ORANGE MARMALADE

Select some oranges about equal in size, of a good colour, free from blemishes, and with thick and soft rinds. The latter consideration is important, seeing that the parboiling operation is effected more perfectly when the rinds are thick and supple.

Prick them somewhat deeply with a small, pointed stick (in order to precipitate the cooking process), and throw them into a preserving pan of boiling water. Boil for thirty minutes; drain the oranges, cool them, and put them under a running tap for twelve hours, or more if possible; or soak them in constantly changed, cold water for twenty hours. The object of this operation is to soften the rinds and extract their bitterness.

This done, drain the oranges; quarter them, remove their pips and filaments, and rub them through a coarse sieve.

Take the same weight of sugar as of orange purée. Melt the former in the preserving pan, and boil it for five or six minutes, skimming carefully the while. Then add the orange purée, and one-quarter pint of good apple juice per lb. of the former.

During the first stage of the cooking process, skim with great care, and during the second stage, stir almost incessantly until the _“nappe” stage_ is reached.

2960—PLUM JAM

Allow twelve oz. of loaf-sugar per lb. of stoned plums.

Dissolve the sugar; skim, set it to boil for seven or eight minutes, and proceed for the cooking as directed under apricot jam.

_Remarks_:—(1) It is a mistake to let the plums macerate in the sugar for some hours previously, for the acid they contain causes them to blacken, and the colour of the jam is thus spoiled. (2) In order to have greengage jam of a fine, green colour, do not cook more than from six to eight lbs. of it at a time, and cook that quantity as quickly as possible.

2961—RHUBARB JAM

Rhubarb jam is one of the most difficult and tedious to make owing (1) to the abundant moisture contained by the vegetable; (2) to its proneness to burn on the bottom of the saucepan, especially towards the close of the cooking process.

If it be desired very green, select suitable natural rhubarb; if it be desired pink, only take the central stalks which are bordered with red, or use forced rhubarb. In any case, it is best not to make more than five or six lbs. at once.

Suppress the ends of the stalks, cut what remains into pieces; by means of a small knife, scrape off the adhering skin and cut the stalks into three-inch lengths. Allow thirteen oz. of loaf-sugar per lb. of rhubarb. Dissolve the former, boil it for seven or eight minutes and then throw the rhubarb into it. Cover the preserving pan and, put it on the side of the stove for about twelve minutes that the fibres of the rhubarb may be disaggregated, and at the end of that time become like vermicelli.

Then set the saucepan upon a fierce fire, and stir constantly until the preparation reaches the _“nappe” stage_, whereupon the jam is finished.

2962—TOMATO JAM

There are also several ways of making this jam, of which the following seems the most expeditious:

The first fact that should be grasped is that the amount of pulp that can be used represents about one-fifth of the tomato, and this itself depends upon the kind of tomato used, and whether it be just ripe, nearly so, or very ripe.

In order to obtain one lb. of pulp, therefore, five lbs. of tomatoes should be used, or thereabouts.

Finely slice the tomatoes, and rub them through a sieve. Put the juice and the purée into the jam-saucepan, and boil for five minutes, stirring the while.

This done, pour the whole into a napkin, stretched between the four legs of an overturned stool, as for straining a jelly; and let it drain thoroughly.

At the end of the operation, therefore, all that remains on the napkin is the mere vegetable pulp, freed of all moisture.

Allow the same weight of sugar as of pulp. Put the former into the jam-saucepan, together with a small glassful of water; let it dissolve, and cook it to the _small-ball stage_ (see the cooking of sugar); taking care to skim it well as soon as it begins to boil. A stick of vanilla may be put with the sugar before boiling it; or the jam may be flavoured with a good tablespoonful of vanilla sugar when it is taken off the fire; in any case, the jam ought to be flavoured with vanilla.

When the sugar has reached the _small-ball stage_, add the tomato pulp to it, and one-fourth pint of red-currant juice per lb. of pulp. Owing to the fact that tomato pulp of itself has no cohesive properties the mixing of red-currant juice with it is essential.

Set the preserving pan upon a fierce fire, stirring incessantly the while, until the _“nappe” stage_ is reached; then let the jam cook for a few more minutes.

2963—BLACK-CURRANT JELLY

Take some very ripe black-currants: clean them; put them into the preserving-pan with half a glassful of water per two lbs. of fruit, and let them boil.

While this preparatory operation is in progress, the skins of the currants burst, and their juice flows into the pan. At this stage, transfer the fruit to a sieve lying on a bowl—a much simpler method than crushing and pressing them in a twisted towel.

Allow as many lbs. of sugar as there are quarts of juice; put this sugar into the preserving-pan; dissolve it, and cook it to the _small-ball stage_; thoroughly skimming the while. Add the black-currant juice, combined per quart with half pint of white-currant juice.

Move the utensil to the side of the stove for a few minutes, that the sugar may dissolve, and then cook the jelly on a fierce fire, carefully skimming the while, until the _“nappe” stage_ is almost reached.

_Remarks_: The object of adding the white-currant jelly is to modify the blackness of pure black-currant jelly.

2964—QUINCE JELLY

Select very ripe fruit; cut it into slices; peel and pip these, and throw them into a basin of fresh water.

Then put them into a preserving-pan with three and a half pints of water per lb. of quinces, and cook them without touching them. This done, transfer them to a sieve, and let them drain. Return the juice to the pan, together with twelve oz. of loaf-sugar per lb.; dissolve the sugar; and set the whole to cook on a fierce fire, meanwhile skimming with care, until the _“nappe” stage_ is almost reached.

As soon as the jelly is cooked, strain it through a piece of muslin stretched over a basin; and by this means, a perfectly clear jelly will be obtained.

2965—RED-CURRANT JELLY (Method A)

Take some red and white currants, in the proportion of two-thirds of the former to one-third of the latter, and combine with them, per two lbs., three oz. of raspberries. Crush the three products together in a basin, and then press them in small quantities at a time, in a strong towel, in order to extract their juice. Put the juice in the preserving-pan, together with eight oz. of loaf-sugar per pint. Thoroughly dissolve the sugar, and set the whole to cook over a very fierce fire; meanwhile skimming carefully—more particularly at first, until the _“nappe” stage_ is reached.

N.B.—The yield of juice from red-currants equals about two-thirds or three-fourths the weight of the raw fruit.

2966—RED-CURRANT JELLY (Method B)

Take the same quantities of white and red currants, and of raspberries, as above. Carefully clean the fruit; wash it in cold water, and put it into the preserving-pan, with one wineglassful of water per lb.

Cook the whole gently on the side of the stove for ten or twelve minutes; transfer the fruit to a sieve, lying on a basin, and let it drain.

Put the juice into the preserving-pan, with twelve oz. of loaf-sugar per lb., and proceed with the cooking as before.

2967—RED-CURRANT JELLY (Method C)

Take the same quantities as above of white-currants, red-currants, and raspberries. Remove the currants from their stalks by means of a fork, and collect them in a basin; clean the raspberries, and allow twelve oz. of loaf-sugar per lb. of the fruit.

Dissolve the sugar in the preserving-pan with a little water and cook it to the _small-ball stage_; meanwhile skimming carefully.

Throw the currants and the raspberries into it; put the pan on the side of the fire for seven or eight minutes, that the juice may exude from the fruit; and then cook on a fierce fire, skimming very carefully the while, until the _“nappe” stage_ is reached.

2968—WHITE-CURRANT JELLY

This is made from fresh, very ripe white-currants and two oz. of raspberries per lb. of the latter. Any one of the three methods given above may be followed in its preparation, although Method C will be found to yield the clearest jelly.

2969—RED-CURRANT JELLY, PREPARED COLD

Prepare the juice as directed under No. 2965. Add to it one lb. of icing-sugar per quart, and keep the whole in the cool for two or three hours, taking care to stir it frequently with a silver spoon in order to dissolve the sugar. Fill the pots and keep them uncovered for two or three days.

This done, cover them in the usual way, and set them in the sun for two or three hours per day for two days.

This jelly is as fragile as it is delicate, and should be kept in the dry.

2970—ORANGE JELLY

In order to make one quart of orange jelly, take twelve oranges, each weighing about five oz.; one-third pint of good apple juice, one lb. of loaf-sugar, and a tablespoonful of grated orange sugar. The latter is obtained by rubbing the rinds of the oranges with loaf-sugar, and then grating the sugar so coloured and flavoured with a hard knife.

If the jelly be desired garnished, insert a fair-sized, candied orange-rind cut into small strips.

_Preparation_:—Thoroughly press the oranges and filter the juice; prepare the apple juice, and set the sugar to dissolve with a few drops of water.

Add the orange and apple juice to the sugar, and cook the jelly like the preceding ones. Leave it to cool for ten minutes; mix with it the orange sugar and the candied rind, and pour it into pots.

2971—APPLE JELLY

Proceed exactly as for quince jelly, and strain the apple juice without pressing the fruit. Do not cook the latter over much, lest the juice becomes mixed with pulp. Nevertheless, this should be very carefully poured away; for, in spite of the greatest care, there is always a certain amount of deposit.

Put the juice into the preserving pan, with thirteen oz. of loaf-sugar and one-third of a stick of vanilla per quart.

Cook, and strain through muslin, as in the case of quince jelly.

2972—TOMATO JELLY (1st Method)

Prepare the tomatoes as directed under No. 2962.

Per lb. of drained juice allow one good pint of apple jelly, twenty oz. of sugar, and a large vanilla stick.

Put into the preserving-pan the sugar, the apple jelly, and the vanilla-flavoured tomato juice, and put the utensil on the side of the fire for five minutes.

This done, set the whole to cook on a fierce fire, until the _“nappe” stage_ is reached.

2973—TOMATO JELLY (2nd Method)

Take the same amount of juice as in the preceding case.

Use red-currant jelly instead of apple jelly, and prepare the former from red and white currants in the proportion of one-third of the former to two-thirds of the latter. Use the same amount of vanilla as above. Put the latter into the preserving-pan; dissolve it with a little water; add the vanilla, and cook it to the _small-crack stage_; remembering to skin carefully at the start.

Add the tomato pulp and the red-currant jelly to the cooked sugar; put the whole on the side of the stove for a moment in order to reduce the sugar; and then proceed with the cooking on a very fierce fire until the _“nappe” stage_ is reached.