CREAMS AND CUSTARDS

CoGoa-mit Island. — Line with cake bottom and sides of dish in which dessert is to be served ; dissolve in custard kettle one pint sugar in half pint Avater, add one tablespoon corn-starch previously mixed smooth with a little water and well-beaten yolks of four eggs ; cook till it thickens, add juice of two lemons, heaping tablespoon butter and cook a few minutes then pour into dish ; grate one cocoa- nut, sweeten a little and put over the custard ; place a meringue of the well-beaten whites, half cup sugar and a few drops lemon juice in flakes over the top, brown delicately in oven and serve either hot or cold. A nice w^ay is to make in souffle dish, or baking dish that will fit and serve in silver receptacle, or use a fancy dish and brown top with salamander iron as directed in souffles.

Floating Island. — ^lake custard of yolks of six eggs, one quart milk, small pinch salt, sugar to taste ; beat and strain yolks before adding to milk ; place custard in a large tin pan and set in stove, stirring constantly until it boils, then remove, flavor with lemon or rose, and pour into a dish (a shallow, wide one is best), spread

smoothly over the boiling hot custard the well-beaten whites, grating some loaf sugar (some add grated cocoa-nut) on top ; set the dish in a pan of ice-water and serve cold ; or turn into glasses ^ and serve with whipped cream or ~ frothed whites of egg on top, finishing with lump of jelly in Jam Floating Island. ccnter. ' Souie prcparc tlic whltcs

by placing a tablespoon at a time on boiling water or milk, lifting them out carefully, when cooked, with a skimmer and laying them gently on the float. Do not crowd them while cooking. This is the "old reliable recipe." Another way of serving is to pour the above cus- tard over slices of small round sponge cakes, spread with fruit jelly and placed in ice cream saucers, piling a spoonful whipped cream on top of each ; or cut sponge cake in slices and lay them on a round dish on the top of the custard. On this put a layer of apri- cots or currant jam, and some more slices of cake. Pile upon this very high a wliip made of damson or other jam and the whites of four eggs. It should be rough to imitate a rock. Garnish with fruits or sweetmeats. Still another beautiful and delicious island is made by whipping whites four eggs very stiff and beating with one tumbler jelly, adding one pint powdered sugar gradually, then beating the whole until perfectly stiff. Chill on ice and serve by half filling a ^lass dish with milk and cover it with the island in spoonfuls stand- mg in peaks. To be eaten with sweetened cream.

Moonshine. — This dessert combines a pretty appearance with palatable flavor, and is a convenient substitute for ice cream. Beat

CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 123

whites of six eggs to very stiff froth, add gradually six tablespoons powdered sugar (to make it thicker use more sugar up to a pint), beating not less than thirty minutes, then beat in about one heaping tablespoon preserved peaches cut in tiny bits (or some use one cup jelly), and set on ice until thoroughly chilled. In serving, pour in each saucer some rich cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla, and on the cream place a liberal portion of the moonshine. This quantity is enough for seven or eight persons.

Hidden Mountain. — Six eggs, a few slices citron, sugar to taste, three-quarters pint cream, a layer of any kind of jam ; beat whites and yolks of eggs separately, then mix and beat again, adding citron, cream and sugar ; when well-beaten put in a buttered pan and fry ; cover with the jam and garnish with slices of citron; to be eaten cold.

Orange Float. — One quart water, the juice and pulp two lemons, one coffee-cup sugar ; Avhen boiling add four tablespoons corn-starch, let boil fifteen minutes, stirring all the time ; when cold pour it over four or five peeled and sliced oranges, and over the top spread the beaten white of three eggs ; sweeten and add a few drops vanilla.

Trifle. — In the bottom of a deep glass bovv'l place bits of sponge cake, it matters not how stale, cut into squares or strips ; a small piece of preserved citron cut into slices ; soak these in cream nicely flavored, then fill the bowl to Avithin half an inch of the top with boiled custard, rich and cold ; lastly, heap the bowl up high with Avhipped cream or Avhites of eggs, ^8^ and place on it nuts, fruits or jelly, cut in thin slices, ^^ so that they will not sink into the cream. ~"

Amhushed TriHe. — Take a round stale sponge cake, cut the top from it in one piece and lay it aside. With sharp knife carefully remove inside of cake leaving sides and bottom about an inch thick and coat well v/ith sweet jelly or jam ; crab-apple jelly is very nice. Scald a pint milk, beat three eggs with two tablespoons powdered sugar, and stir into milk when almost boiling ; crumb the cake taken out and beat into the hot custard ; return to the hot fire and cook, stirring constantly, until thick and smooth, then add one teaspoon corn-starch wet wdth a little milk, cook a minute longer and take from fire ; when nearly cold flavor with vanilla, lemon, or bitter almond, and fill the cake with it. Cover inside of the lid of cake laid aside with jelly, and fit neatly into its place. Brush the whole cake with white of an egg, sift poAvdered sugar thickly over it, or frost Avith plain or boiled frosting, and set in a cool, dry place until wanted. A simple, delightful dessert.

Lemon Trifle. — Strain juice two lemons over one large cup sugar and grated rind of one lemon and let stand tAvo hours ; then

124 SOUFFLES.

add one cup juico of any fruit preferred, and a little nutmeg. Strain and whip into it gradually a pint sweet cream that has been whipped stifT. Serve in jelly glasses and send around with cake. Should be eaten soon after it is made.

The extreme lightness and delicacy of a well-made soufHe ren- der it a general favorite. It may be varied greatly in its composition and is commonly served under the name of the flavoring used. Vanilla is one of the most delicate flavorings for this elegant dish. The secret of making a souffle well is to have the eggs well whipiDed, particularly the Avhites, using for them a perfectly dry dish and beater as the slightest moisture vAW prevent their coming to a froth, and unless the froth of egg be very stifT the omelette souffle will be made heavy by it and so spoiled. Put all ingredients together quickly but gently, stirring, not beating, and if to be baked place in oven as soon as lohltes are added in a buttered souffle dish or pan, filling only half full, as it will rise very light. Do not have the oven too hot nor open oven door for the first quarter of an hour, at least. When the souffle has risen very high, is of a fine yellow color, and quite done in the center, as it will be in from a half to three-c^uarters of an hour, send immedi- ately to table, for if alloAved to stand it Avill sink in the center and its appearance and goodness be entirely spoiled. To keep hot, and .--o preserve its lightness, the souffle is often carried to table on a hot shovel, or Avith a hot salamander iron held over it, and placed in tli' ornamental dish already on the tablr, ^^__^ ^^ and served in a diimer of ceremony as salamander.

an entremert, a remove of the second course roast, or for luncheon; quickly hand it round instead of placing on the table. The sala- mamler, or braising iron, is a very convenient utensil for browning the tups of boiled souffles, puddings and the mermgues spread over creams, blanc-manges, or puddings to be served cold, or in glass

SOUFFLES. 125

dishes, doing away with the necessity of placing them in the oven.

CI ...j^^^'F^ll The souffle pan may be of either earthen ware

P-^'^-^-^4-._ J or tin, and should be about three inches deep,

^^^^^^^^ fitting into an ornamental dish for serving,

^1^^!^ "'_^^^^^j^ which is usually of silver. This article will

1^ ^^r - ;. be found very convenient, as it may be used

y^^^^^^^^^"'' for custards, puddings, scalloped oysters,

Ornamental Souffle Dish. potato crcam, or auy dlsh scrvcd in the pan

in which it is baked. Souffles may, however, be baked in any deep

tin or earthen baking pan, which may be sent to table on a plate or

platter, surrounded by a neatly folded napkin.

Apple SouMe. — One pint steamed apples, pulped ; one tablespoon meltecl butter, half cup sugar, whites of six eggs and yolks of three, a slight grating of nutmeg, and a little lemon peel. Stir into the hot apple the butter, sugar and nutmeg, and the yolks of the eggs, well-beaten. When this is cold, beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and stir into the mixture. Butter a three-pint dish, and turn the souffle into it. Bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve immediately with any kind of sauce.

Cheese SouMe. — Melt a tablespoon butter, stir into it two table- spoons flour, add one gill milk and stir until boiling; throw in one- half teaspoon each salt and white pepper and a grain Cayenne ; take from fire and stir in one by one yolks of three eggs and three ounces grated cheese, beating the whole thoroughly, then add well-frothed whites four eggs, stirring so carefully as not to beat down the froth ; bake in cups in quick oven ten minutes. Serve in the cups on hot plate the moment the souffle is done, placing them in a napkin folded in basket shape upon the table.

Chestnut SouMe. — Throw one pint fresh chestnuts into boiling water and boil until shells begin to crack open. Take from the water, remove shells and inner skins, pound in a mortar and make perfectly smooth by passing them through a sieve. Pour one pint milk over the chestnut-flour and stirring these together put the mixture into a small saucepan and let it cook over a slow fire ten minutes, melt a tablespoon butter and stir into it two tablespoons flour; turn this into the milk and chestnuts, and the instant the mixture boils take from fire and add two tal)lespoons powdered sugar, yolks three eggs, and beat all well together ; stir in lightly the stiffly frothed whites of four eggs, pour into well-greased souffle pan and "bake in moderate oven tAventy minutes. Serve as soon as taken from the oven.

Chicken SouMe. — Take the breast of one raw chicken, chop fine, and pound in a mortar, melt a half tablespoon butter and stir into it one tablespoon each flour and sweet cream ; when boiling take from lire

126 BOurrLEs.

and pour over the mixture in the mortar adding one egg ; pound well together, season with pepper and salt and pass through a sieve; whip a gill of cream (less the tablespoon used) to a froth and add to the mixture ; liave ready two truffles, cut into stars, and place one star in the bottom of each buttered cup-tin, fill half full of the souffle mixture, cover with greased paper, put into a pan boiling water and let them simmer slowly fifteen minutes; when done turn out on hot platter, leaving truffles uppermost, and serve at once.

Chocolate SouMe. — Break four eggs, whites and yolks sepa- rately ; add to the yolks three teaspoons sugar, one teaspoon flour ; three ounces chocolate, grated, and stir rai)idly five minutes ; whip whites of eggs till firm and add them to the other ingredients. But- ter the souffle pan, put in the mixture and bake in moderate oven fifteen or twenty minutes ; strew sugar over and serve immediately, carr3'ing to table with hot salamander over the top. Another excel- lent chocolate souffle is made by melting one large tablespoon butter, stirring into it over the fire two tablespoons flour, adding a gill of milk, and when boiling remove from the stove, add nine tablespoons grated chocolate and a heaping tablespoon sugar, and drop in one by one the yolks of four eggs, stirring briskly all the time ; whip whites of four eggs and stir in last very lightly ; pour the mixture into the souffle pan, set in a pan of hot water reacliing halfway up its sides, cover and simmer on back of range thirty minutes without uncover- ing ; when done, brown with salamander, set pan into souffle dish or envelop in a najikin ; serve at once. Or to the well-beaten yolks of six eggs add half pint butter, cup flour, pint milk and half cup grated chocolate ; bake in souffle dish in hot oven ; serve at onee.

Chocolate SouMe. (Cold). — Two cups milk, one and a half squares Baker's chocolate, three-fourths cup powdered sugar, two tablespoons corn-starch, three eggs, one-fourth teaspoon salt, half teaspoon vanilla extract. Boil the milk in double boiler, leaving out third of a cup to mix with the corn starch. After mixing, stir into the boiling milk and cook eight minutes. Dissolve the chocolate with half a cu]) of the sugar and two tablespoons boiling water ; add to the other mixture; beat the yolks and add them and the salt. Cook two minutes. Set in cold water and beat until cool, then add flavor and pour into a dish ; beat whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add the remaining sugar and heap on the custard. Dredge with sugar and brown with a salamander or hot shovel.

Cream SouiHe. — Four eggs, two tablespoons sugar, a speck of salt, half teaspoon vanilla extract, one cup cream, whipped. Beat whites of eggs to stiff froth, and gradually add sugar ana flavoring to them. When Avcll-beaten add yolks, and lastly the whipped cream. Have a dish holding about one quart slightly buttered. Pour the mixture into this and bake Jws^ twelve minutes. Serve the mo- ment it is taken from the oven.

SOUFFLES. 127

Jelly SouMe. — Boil one quart milk and add three tablespoons corn-starch wet with a little cold milk ; stir one minute and pour into a bowl over beaten yolks of six eggs, whites of two, and one- half cup powdered sugar ; whip two or three minutes, put into but- tered dish, set in pan of boiling water in oven and bake half an hour, or until firm. Just before taking out cover quickly with jelly or jam and over this put a meringue of the four whites of eggs and a half cup powdered sugar. Close oven doors for a moment till meringue is slightly colored. When cold serve with cream.

Lemon Soitiffe. — Melt two tablespoons butter and stir into it four tablespoons flour ; add one ounce arrowroot, four tablespoons sugar and one pint milk (having previously taken one gill of the milk in which to steep the thin yellow rind of a lemon for flavoring), stir until it boils and Avhen boiling strain into it the milk from the lemon rinds. Set aside and when slightly cool drop in one by one the yolks of four eggs, stir well together and add the frothed whites of five eggs, stirring them in very lightly. Turn quickly into souffle pan, cover and set in boiling water ; draAV to back of range and let simmer three-quarters of an hour, keeping closely covered. Serve when done as quickly as possible.

Macaroon. SouMe. — Soak one-third box gelatine in half cup water two hours, then set over hot water and stir until dissolved, strain and stir it into one pint juice of any kind of fruit preferred. Add a half cup sugar, or sweeten to taste, place the pan on ice and as soon as the mixture begins to thicken whip until it hardens like jelly ; set away on ice. Brown ten macaroons in oven, cool them and roll fine. Just before ready to serve make any soft custard liked, omitting the flavoring, turn it into a scuffle dish, heap the fruit jelly on this and cover with the macaroon crumbs.

Omelette SouMe. — Cream yolks of three eggs and three table- spoons sugar in a deep bowl and flavor as wished ; add Avell-frothed whites of six eggs, and with a spoon, giving it a rotary motion, cut the two, mixing carefully together; turn on the souffle dish (or any baking dish) slightly buttered, smooth, sprinkle with sugar and bake in moderate oven ; when risen well and of fine yellow color, serve ; or, for Fruit Omelette SouMe add to the well frothed whites of three eggs a tablespoon marmalade or fresh peaches cut in fine i^ieces, mix with powdered sumt and bake in a rather quick oven ; or place a layer of marmalade on bottom of dish and pour the omelette souffle over and bake.

Omelette SouMe — Put one pint milk over the fire, reserving suffi- cient to wet up three heaping tablespoons potato flour, rice flour, arrowroot, or tapioca, as preferred, stir this into the milk, add piece of butter size of walnut, and sweeten to taste. Stir over the fire un- til it thickens, then take ofif and cool a little. Separate the whites

128 SOUFFLES.

from the yolks of four eggs, beat the yolks, and stir them into the soutUe batter. Whisk the whites of eggs to the firmest possible froth, for on this depends the exeellenoe of the dish; stir them to the other ingredients, and add a (l^w drops of essenee of any flavor- ing preferred ; })our the batter into a souffle dish, i)Ut it immediately into the oven, and bake about half an hour ; then take out and put the dish into the more ornamental one, hold a salamander or hot shovel over the souffle, sti'ew it with sifted sugar, and send it instantly to table. Another delicious souffle is made by beating yolks of four eggs, two tablespoons sugar, a speck of salt and tablespoon flavor- ing together, and adding quickly the well- y^^ frothed whites. Have a large omelette pan ^ggr ~~j^^^^ very hot. Put in one tablespoon butter and ^pI^Tg;-^^^*'^ pour in half the mixture. Shake rapidly for

^--^^ —^^'^ a minute ; then fold and turn on a hot dish.

Omelette Pan. Put the remainder of tlic butter and mixture

in the pan and proceed as before. Turn this omelette on the dish by the side of the other. Dredge lightly with sugar, and i)lace in oven for eight minutes. Serve the moment it comes from oven.

Orange SouMe. — Peel and slice six oranges, put in a glass dish a layer of oranges ; then one of sugar, and so on until all the orange is used, and let stand two hours ; make a soft boiled custard of yolks of three eggs, pint milk, sugar to taste, with grating of orange peel for flavor, and i)Our over the oranges Avhen cool enough not to break dish; beat whites of eggs to stiff" froth, stir in sugar and put over the top ; mav be browned with salamander iron or hot shovel. Praised by all.

Potato SouMe. — Clean well with a brush and bake four large potatoes, cut off the tops, scoop out the inside, taking care not to break the skins ; rub the potato through a sieve and add to it a half gill of boiling milk into which a tablespoon of butter and half teaspoon each salt and white pejiper have been stirred ; continue stirring until ^^|j|^^^ potato becomes hot, take from the fire and drop in potMosoume.

the yolks of three eggs, stirring each one thoroughly with the potato mi^;"ture ])efore dropping in another ; lastly, stir in lightly the frothed whites of five eggs, being careful not to break the froth; fill the potato skins two-thirds full of this mixture, stand upright in a pan, and ])ake in a quick oven from seven to ten minutes. The souffle will be done wlicn the finger can be pressed upon it and withdrawn without any adhering. Serve on hot platter.

CONFECTIONERY. 129

COISTFECTIONERY.

There are very few moclern kitchens in which some cooking utensils may not be found convenient for making candy. A sauce- pan of tinned iron, with a handle and flaring sides, and a lip to facilitate the pouring of the contents, will be found best adapted to such use ; or a small iron or brass kettle will do if kept (juite clean.

Dissolve four jiounds white sugar (granulated sugar is preferred) in one quart water, place this in a porcelain kettle over a slow fire for half an hour, pour into it a small quantity of gelatine and gum- arabic dissolved together, or white of an egg; all the impurities which rise to the surface skim off at once. To make the clarifying process still more perfect, strain through a flannel bag. Another way to ^"^^^^ clarify sugar or syrup is to put two pounds sugar, one pint water, and well-beaten white of an egg into a preserving-pan or lined saucepan. When sugar is dissolved place over the fire, and when it boils throw in a cup cold water, and do not stir the sugar after this is added. Bring to the boiling-point again, and then place the pan on back of stove or range to settle. Remove all scum and the syrup will be ready for use. The scum should be placed on a sieve, so that what sAa'up runs from it may be boiled up again ; this must also be well skiinmed. It will take about twenty minutes for the sugar to dis- ijolve, and five minutes to boil. After clarifying confectioners pre- pare different degrees of sugars as follows :

130 COXFECTIOXERY.

Candy or Thread Sugar. — Having clarified the sugar put syrup over the fire and let boil until smooth, dip a skimmer into sugar, touch it with thumb and and fore-finger; first di|)ping them in Avater, and instantly open them, when a fine short thread of sugar will form; a few minutes' more l»oiling and the thread will l)e longer and stronger, and has attained the first degree. SouMe Sugar. — Boil the syrup still longer, then dip in the skimmer and blow off the syrup. If boiled long enough bubbles will form on the holes of the skim- mer. The second degree is reached. Feathered Sugar. — Boil still longer, again dip the skimmer, shake it, and give a sudden flirt ; if boiled enough the sugar will fly off like small feathers or down. Crackling Sugar. — Boil still longer, till on dipping a stick into the pan and plunging into cold water the sugar snaps and l)ecomes instantly hard. Caramel or Spun Sugar. — First boil one pound sugar and one gill water together very quickly over a clear fire, skimming it very carefully as soon as it boils. Keep boiling until it snaps when a little of it is dropped in a pan of cold water. If it remains hard, the sugar has attained the right degree ; then squeeze in a little lemon-juice and let remain an instant on the fire ; then set the pan into another of cold water, and the caramel is ready foruse. The insides of well-oiled moulds are often ornamented with this sugar, which with a fork should l)e spread over them in fine threads or network. A dish of light paste, tastefully arranged, looks very pretty witli this sugar spun lightly over it, and it makes an elegant coloring for any sweetmeats. The sugar must be care- fully watched, and taken up the instant it is clone

CONFECTIONERY.

enough to handle. In making candy into flat sticks, squares, or an}- shape, indent it when partially cool with a warm knife rubbed with butter, and when cold it will separate easily. Colored candies are often injurious, and sometimes even poisonous, and should be avoided. In making meringues, trifles and kisses, use fine powdered sugar (" Confectioners' XXX " is the best grade) and provide a cone-shaped bag of strong, heavy linen or ticking — or for once using, strong brown paper will do — through a hole in the small end put a funnel-shaped tin tube one- half inch in diameter at the small end, and pro- vided with a flange at the other to prevent it Menngue Bag. from slipping quite through (these tubes are of various shapes for kisses, trifles, lady-fingers, etc.), tie the small end of the bag firmly around the tube, and holding bag in right hand squeeze the mixture through in shapes desired, using a good deal of pressure if cakes are to be large, but if small very little will do. Bake in a very mod- erate oven, or let dry in cool oven for two hours. The oven for meringues, kisses, etc., should be slower than for angel cake, and kept at an even temperature ; if meringues are exposed to much heat they will be s})oiled. When powdered almonds are to be used, they should be thoroughly dried in the open air after blanching, and they Avill pulverize more easily. In making macaroons or di'ops, or pulling butter-scotch or taffy, butter hands lightly to prevent stick- ing. Flouring the hands is apt to give an unpleasant taste to the candy.

Blanched almonds should always be prepared the day before wanted that they may become perfectly dry before using. To blanch them, shell and put them into hot water after it comes to a boil, and let boil a few minutes, then throw them into cold water, slip off the skins and dry in the open air. Never dry them in the oven, which takes away the oil. Shelled ahnonds are more economical for use in cakes or confectionery. One pound of unshelled almonds only makes six and one-half ounces or one coffee-cupful when shelled, while the shelled are generally only double the price, and sometimes not that per pound. The Princess is the best variety to buy in the shell. The bitter almond is considered injurious to animal life and should be used with great caution. Of the shelled sweet almonds the Jordan is the finest, though the Bicely is good. To prepare

132 CONFECTIOXERY.

cocoanut make an incision through the meat at one of the holes in the end, draw off the milk, pound the nut well on all sides to loosen the meat, crack, take out meat, and set pieces in heater or in a cool, open oven overnight, or for a few hours, to dry — or better in open air, as too much heat dries the oil — then grate ; if all is not used, sprinkle witli sugar (after grating) and spread out in a cool, dry ])lace, and it will keep for weeks. Dessicated cocoanut may always be used in place of the fresh, first moistening slightly with milk. If one is at hand use the lal)or-saving grater for grating . _,. .-^^.^ cocoa-nut and almonds, for which it is de- Laur- avrng firat^r.

signed, as well as for pumpkins, horse-radish, and such other arti- cles as need treatment on a coarse grater. It is fastened to a strong frame which is screwi-d to a table, and as will be readily seen does its work with great rapidity. This is as great an improvement in its way as the modern egg beater is over a spoon. For sending away home-made confections or bride's cake very pretty little satin satch- ets are made, which are of course much more highly prized by the recipients than the fancy boxes for that purpose to be had of confectioners. The white wire candy tongs illustrated are an excellent substi- tute for silver, where the latter can net be ^^"^y Tong^. afforded, for use in serving candies provided for dessert.

Butter- Scotch. — Three pounds "coffee A" sugar, fourth pound butter, half teaspoon cream tartar, eight drops extract lemon ; add as much cold water as will dissolve the sugar; boil Avithout stirring till it Avill easily break when dropped in cold water, and when done add lemon ; have a dripping-pan well buttered and pour in one-fourth inch thick, and wlien partly cold mark ofl' in squares as directed in preface. If })ulled when partly cold till very white, it will be like ice-cream candy.

Hoarhound Candy. — Boil two ounces dried hoarhound in a pint and a half water for about half an hour; strain and add three and a half pounds brown sugar ; boil over a hot fire until it is sufficiently hard, pour out in flat, well-greased tin trays, and mark into sticks or small squares as above.

Lemon Candy. — Take a pound loaf sugar and a large cup water,

CONFECTIONERY, 133

and after cooking over a slow fire half an hour clear with a little hot vinegar, take off the scum as it rises, testing by raising with a spoon, and when the " threads " will snap like glass pour into a tin pan and when nearly cold mark in narrow strips with a knife. Before pour- ing into the pans, chopped cocoa-nut, almonds, peanuts, hickory- nuts, or Brazil-nuts cut in slices, may be stirred into it.

Ma2'>le Candy. — Three and a half pounds or two quarts maple sugar, one and a half pints water ; mix in a vessel large enough to hold the candy when expanded by heat ; boil over a brisk fire taking care that it does not burn. The heat should be applied at bottom and not at sides. When it boils up throw in a little cold water, take from fire and skim well, and do this as often as impurities arise. After boiling fifteen minutes remove a small portion of the melted sugar with a spoon and cool by placing in a saucer set in cold water. When cool enough take a portion between thumb and finger and if it forms a "string" or " thread " as they are separated, the process is nearly done, and great care must be used to control the heat so that the boiling may be kept up without burning. Test frequenthjhy dropping a bit into cold w\ater placed near ; if it becomes hard and brittle, snapping apart when bent, it is done. Stir in a teaspoon cream tartar or tablespoon vinegar, remove from stove at once and pour into shallow dishes, thoroughly but lightly greased, covering each thinly. Cool until it can be handled, pull to any length or width desired and finish as directed in preface ; indent, separate or roll into sticks or make any desired shapes. Begin pulling as soon as possible, as it is more brittle than molasses candy.

Molasses Candy. — Two cups molasses, one cup brown sugar and butter half the size of a walnut ; boil twenty minutes, then add two teaspoons cream tartar, one of soda and one tablespoon vinegar. Pull till light. Taffy: Two tablespoons vinegar, four of water, six of sugar (wliite is nicest); boil twenty minutes and pour into a buttered plate.

Peanut Candy. — Boil two pounds brown sugar, one gill good molasses and a half pint water until it hardens in cold Avater when dropped from a spoon, and add two teaspoons vanilla, a teaspoon soda (dry) and four^quarts skinned peanuts (measured before they are shelled). Turn into shallow, well-buttered pans and press down smootli with wooden spoon. When partially cold cut into strips. Unrivalled of its kind. For other nut candy use walnuts, hickory- nuts or almonds. Another way is to fill a buttered tin tray to the depth of about an inch with the nuts, and pour, over them just enough of the candy mixture to barely cover ; cool and mark as directed

_ Cocoa-nut Patties. — Rasp a good fresh cocoa-nut on a grater, letting none of the rind fall. Spread the cocoa-nut thus grated on

134 CONFECTIOXERY.

a dish and let it stand in pome cool, dry place two days to dry grad- ually. Add to it double its -vveipfht of sifted powdered sugar, the whites of six eggs, well-

whipped, and a cup flour to every pound

Cocoa-nut Pattk".. sugar. Drop the mixture on a baking-tin, a

spoonful at a time, or into drop-cake tins. Bake in very gentle oven aljout twenty minutes, take from tins while warm and Avhen cold put away in close tin box or can.

Bergamot Drops. — One pound sifted granulated sugar, one gil bergamot water, mixed well over the fire about five minutes. Drop in very round drops on paper.

Centennial Drops. — "White of one egg beaten to a stiff froth, quarter pound pulverized sugar, half teaspoon baking powder ; flavor with lemon ; butter tins and droj) with teaspoon aljout three inches apart; bake in a slow oven and serve with ice-cream. This is also a very nice recipe for icing.

CJiocolate Drops. — Scrape or grate chocolate to a powder, and mix one ounce of it with each pound sugar used ; make into paste with cold water and boil up gently. Drop on thick white paper from a spoon to cool and dry. Coifee Drops made same way, allow- ing one ounce finely powdered coffee to one pound sugar.

Cinnamon Drops. — Put one ounce cinnamon in a mortar, sift- ing it afterwards through a fine hair or silk sieve ; mix with it over thiC stove a pound loaf sugar moistened with a very little water. Take the mixture up in a teaspoon and drop on stiff white writing paper. Let them get cold and they Avill come off easily. Make Clove Drops same way.

Cocoa-nvt Drops. — One pound co<'oa-nut, half pound powdered sugar, and the white of an egg ; work all together and roll into little balls in the hand ; bake on buttered tins.

Fresh Damson Drops. — Bake some damsons, skin, stone and strain through a sieve. Mix enough sifted powdered sugar to make a thin paste, drop on paper and let' them get quite dry ; then put thorn on a sieve, wetting it a little or they will stick. They must again dry on a stave and be kept in a box.

G'niger Drops. — Pound and sift as much ginger as you wish the drops to taste of, and stir with one pound loaf sugar and a little water over the fire until it boils up. Drop and dry on paper.

Lemon Drops. — Squeeze the juice from six good lemons and add sifted loaf sugar mitil so stiff it can hardly be stirred ; put in shallow saucf'i^an and stir over the fire five minutes. Drop fi"om a spoon on thick paper.

CONFECTIONERY. 135

Lemon and Peppermint Drops. — Set a quantity of granulated sugar and a little water over the fire in a sauceiian with a lip, in the proportion of two ounces water to one pound sugar. It must not come to a full boil, but remove from stove just as the bubbles that denote the boiling point is reached begin to form ; let cool a little, stirring rapidly, add strong essence lemon or peppermint to taste, and drop as uniformly as possible on sheets of manilla paper, tilting the vessel slightly and stroking off the drops from the lip Avith bit of stiff wire or a spoon. Keep in a Avarni place for a few hours to dry. Delicious drops may be made by substituting juice of fresh fruits for essence, or using any other essence preferred.

Orange Drops. — Squeeze out the juice of three good lemons, adding some sifted powdered sugar ; grate six small sweet oranges, put all in a shallow pan on the fire till it is of a nice thickness, stir continuously with a wooden s})oon five or six minutes. Take the mixture from the fire and drop it on thick white paper in small drops.

Orgeai Drops. — Pound Avell in a mortar four ounc(?s blanched almonds, moistening with a little Avater, and make a paste. Flavor with orange flower water, strain the Avhole through a cloth, moisten with half pound powdered sugar and form into drops on paper to dry.

Strawberry Z^r^y;*.— One-half pound each juice and powdered sugar, well-frothed whites of two eggs ; mix all together and drop on tins, putting in very cool oven to dry. Any Fresh Fruit Drops made same way.

Evsrton Cream Can(h/. — Squeeze juice of one large lemon into a cup ; boil one and one-half pounds moist white sugar, two ounces butter, one and a half cups water, together Avith half the rind of the lemon, and when done (which may be knoAvn by its becoming C[uite crisp Avhen dropped into cold water) set aside till boiling has ceased and then stir in the juice of the lemon, butter a dish and pour in about an inch thick ; when cool take out peel (which may be dried), pull until white, draw out into sticks and check about four inches long, with a knife. If you have no lemons, take two tablespoons vinegar and two teaspoons lemon extract. The fire must be quick and the candy stirred all the time.

French Cream Candy. — Put into a saucepan one pint water to each pound sugar ; boil carefully, for upon this depends the success of the candies; when it has boiled ten minutes (do not stir while boiling) it is time to try it ; drop from the spoon into a bowl of ice water and if when it falls to the bottom you can take it up between the thumb and finger into a soft ball, which must not be sticky, it is at the right point. Set from the fire, and if Avhen cool a thin, jelly

136 CONFECTIONERY.

like film forms over the surface, it is properly done, and the candy may be made ; but if the coating over the top seems at all sugary aud the candy is wanted creamy and nice, a few spoonfuUs of water must be added and the eyrup returned to the fire and boiled until the proper consistency is reached, which test as before. Do not let it become the least brittle ; if it does, add water and cook again. A pinch of cream tartar helps to check the tendency to return to sugar. When the syrup is perfectly done and cooled so that the finger may be borne in it, beat rapidly wdth a spoon, and in ten minutes it should be a white paste resembling lard, which can be worked like bread dough. This is the foundation for all fine candies and is called by French confectioners Fondant. The simplest French candies are made from this by coloring yellow and flavoring with lemon, or pink and flavoring with raspberry, and working into balls, cones, shells, grooved cones, or any shape fancy dictates, and letting them stand until they harden. Or into the pink colored fondant work chopped English walnuts, flavor with vanilla, press into oiled paper cases an inch wide and deep, and three or four inches long, and when firm turn out and cut into cubes for Walnut Creams. Or use chopped almond, leaving the paste white, flavor with vanilla, and make Vanilla Almond Cream.. Work into a piece of the paste or f\mdant chopped almonds, citron, a few currants and seedless raisins, flavor with lemon, vanilla or raspberry, shape in ];nper forms and the result is T^itti Frutil Candy. One should bring into use the inventive faculties and with the above as helps make as niany other varieties as Avished. A very handsome variety is cal

the nuts and then dipping into the paste, first melted oA'er boil

CONFECTIONERY. 137

ing water until it is like cream. If the nut shows through the cream it is too hot and must be set out of the water and beaten until cool and thick enough to thorotighlij coat the nuts. If it hardens return to the boiling water. Dry the creamed nuts on manilla papei-. Another variety of nut candy is made by rolling the paste into balls and placing half a whole kernel of walnut, almond, or other nuts on each side, pressing it in until it adheres firmly. Chocolate Creams are made by boiling a half pound sugar and three tablespoons thick, sweet cream, till it makes a soft ball in water ; let it cool, then beat till it is very white, flavor with a few drops vanilla and make into balls size of a small marble ; M-arm some unsweetened chocolate and mix it with a piece of the melted paste (using more chocolate than paste) until quite smooth and thick enough to coat the creams. Drop the balls into this with a fork and take them out to dry on waxed paper.

French Cream CaiuJi/ (Uncooked). — Used by all confectioners. Mix whites of two eggs and their bulk in water in a large bowl ; beat very well, add a dessert-spoon vanilla and about two pounds "XXX" confectioners' sugar finest grade of powdered sugar), well sifted, beat well, and the paste is ready Take one-half pound dates, remove stones, put in a piece of the candy paste and roll each one in granulated sugar. For Fig Candu^ split one-half pound figs ;ind place a layer of the dough on a board, first sprinkled well with powdered sugar to prevent its adhering, then a layer of figs, again a layer of dough, and cut in squares. Nuts of any kind may be made up into candy by using the meats for the foundation or inside of little balls of paste, and then roll in coarse sugar; set each kind out in a cool place to harden. For Chocolate Creams roll any number of balls size of small marbles from the dough and when they are hardened dip with a fork into some baker's chocolate melted on the stove. Be careful not to allow it to boil ; better to melt in a little cup placed in pan of hot water on the stove. Cocoa-nut Candy may be made by rolling out another portion of the dough on the floured board, sprinkle with cocoa-nut, roll a few times with the roller, and cut into squares. A mixture of cocoa-nut and nuts chopped fine makes a delicious candy. ¥ ox English Walnut Candy split the walnuts, shape some of the dough into round flat balls, place a half of the nut on each side and press firmly. Use hickory- nut meats for Hickory-n ut Candy. This candy is now being made in society circles a good deal, as there is no cooking to be done and it is very easy and clean work. A dollar's worth of all the

Lemon Cream Candy. — Steep grated peel of one lemon in juice of two one houi and strain, squeezing cloth hard to get out all the strength ; boil six pounds best white sugar with three cups water until it hardens in cold water; stir in the lemon juice, boil one min-

138 CONFECTIONERY.

ute, add one teaspoon dry soda, stirring in well, and turn out upon broad, Blmllow, buttered dishes. Pull as soon as can be handled into long white ropes and cut into lengths when brittle. Use same recipe, substituting vanilla tiuvoring instead of lemon for Vanilla Cream Candy.

Chocolate Caramels. — One cup chocolate shaved fine, one cup molasses or brown sugar, half cup milk or one cup cream, one cup sugar ; when nearly done, if milk is used, add apiece of butter size of a walnut; when cream is used no butter will be needed ; slir until perfeetly dissolved but not after it begins to boil, as that will make it grain; it is done when it hardens and becomes brittle when dropped in cold Avater, but do not make too hard ; grease plates with butter, pour it on about half an inch thick ; when nearly cool cut with a buttered knife into small squares.

Chocolate Caramel a.- — One ana a half cups grated chocolate four of brown sugar, one and a half of cold water, piece of butter size of an egg, tables))oon very sharp vinegar ; if liked, flavor with two tablespoons vanilla just before removing from fire; do not stir, but shake the vessel gently while cooking ; boil on the top of stove over a brisk lire until it becomes brittle when, tried in Avater ; pour into a well buttered and floured dripping-pan, and check off in squares while soft.

Cocoa-nut Caramels. — One pint milk, butter size of an egg, one cocoa-nut grated fine (or dessicated cocoa-nut may be used), three pounds white sugar, two teaspoons lemon; boil slowly until stifl' (some then Ijeat to a cream), pour into shallow pans and Avhen partly cold cut in squares, The butter may be omitted.

Cocoa-md Cones. — Pound one pound blanched and shelled almonds in a mortar with whites of twelve eggs till smooth. Prepare and grate three large cocoa-nuts, and with three pounds sugar work into the pounded almonds and eggs, mold into cones size of an English walnut, place on buttered paper a little distance apart and bake in moderate oven. Dust with powdered sugar before baking, if liked.

Maple Chocolate Cream s.-'Two and a half cups maple sugar, one- half cup cold water or cream ; boil initil it makes a soft ball in cold water ;]»lace the saucepan in cold water, and bi'at till cold enough to make into little balls ; take half a cake of Baker's chocolate, shave off fine, put in bowl on top of boiling tea-kettle to melt, and Avhen balls are cool enough, roll in the chocolate with a fork. This makes eighty. Or while making into balls, mold an almond-meat into the center of each ball, roll in coarse sugar, and you have delicious Cream Almonds. Or, mold the unbroken halves of walnut-meats into the soft sugar, and when cold, roll in the chocolate. When finished, take out and lay on buttered paper until cold

CONFECTIONERY.

Kisses. — Beat wJiites of four smaii eggs to a high, firm froth, stir into it a half pound sifted powdered sugar, two teaspoons at a time, flavor with essence of lemon or rose, and heat very light ; then squeeze through the meringue or confectioner's hag heretofore described (using tube like one in cut if you have it), or drop half the size of an egg a little more than an inch apart on ma- nilla paper spread over a half inch board, previousl}^ soaked in cold water, and place in moderate oven. As soon as they begin to look yellowish take them out.

Almond JJacaroons. — One pound blanched almonds ground very fine with a little sugar to keep from oiling, rub whites of twelve eggs, without whipping, into the almonds until perfectly smooth. Add one and one-half pounds pulverized sugar, two ounces corn- starch and two ounces flour, stirring each in grad- ually and thoroughly ; make into balls with a knife or meringue bag, place on ungreased papers on tins and with a pastry brush dampen each one and Chocolate Macaroons are

Macaroons.

pat into shape before putting in oven.

made in exactly the same manner,working two

ounces chocolate cooked with one-half cup water*

and one ounce sugar into the almond macaroon pastry Brush.

paste when ready to make into balls. Make Ilicliory-imt and Pecan

Macaroons in same way, taking the finely-chopped nut meats instead

of almonds, and omitting the flour, using four ounces corn-starch.

jucmon Macaroons. — One pound powderea sugar, four eggs whipped very light, juice of three lemons and grated peel of one, one heaping cup flour, heaping teaspoon baking powder, one-half teaspoon nutmeg; butter the hands, take up small lumps of the mixture and make into balls the size of a walnut. Bake in brick oven on sheets of manilla paper, placing them more than two inches apart.

Pi/rarnid of Macaroons. — Boil loaf sugar to the candy point (see preface candy), rul) butter over the outside of the tin or paper form, set firmly on a plate <3r table, and begin at the bottom by putting a row macaroons around it, sticking them to- ^f-ther with the prepared sugar, then adding aaother row, and so on until finished. When the cement is cold the pyramid may be taken from cho t"orm. Kisses, or cocoa-nut drops, be- ing lighter, are more difficult to make in this form than macaroons.

Meringues. — One pound powdered sugar, whites of nine eggs ; whip eggs until dish can be inverted without their falling off", and (hen simply add the sugar, two teaspoons at a time, incorporating it

Macaroon Pyramid.

CONFECTIONERY.

thoroughly, but stirring as little as possible ; put together quickly gai* and when properlv made the dough will stand up stiffly if cleft |7 "^^ith a knife. Tlie dough, or a part of it, is sometimes colored I / with cochineal ; have ready either hickory or maple boards three- y fourths of an inch thick, to fit oven, soak them fifteen minutes in cold water and cover them with strips of heavy manilla paper about two and a half inches wide; on these drop the mixture from the end of a dessert-spoon (or use the meringue bag), giving the meringues tlie form of an es:g, dropping them about two inches apart on tlic^paper, and bake till a light brown. They should bake very slowly, as the longer they arc baked the thicker the crust will be. Leave the oven door opeii for a half hour at least. Take up each strip of paper by the two ends, turn it gently on the table, and Avith a small spoon take out the soft part of each meringue, strew over them some sifted sugar and return to oven bottom side up to brown. This recipe makes four dozen double meringues and they may be kept for weeks. When wanted for table, 'fill Avith whipped^ cream, ice-cream or jelly, place two of them together so as to inclose the filling and serve. To Meringues.

vary their appearance, finely chopped almonds or currants may be strewn over them before the sugar is sprinkled over, and they may be garnished with any bright colored preserve. Or, instead of mak- ing'^above shape, form the meringue dough into half balls about six inches in diameter ; dry them in the oven very slowly, so that the crust is a1)out one-third of an inch thick. When emptied of the soft interiors and when cold, tAvo shells are placed on a platter like an open clam shell, and the whip])ed cream (already set by being on ice) is banked betAA'cen them, as shoAvn in cut, reaching as high as suits the fancy. The cream may be deco- rated Avith berries; sliced nuts or candied fruits, or serA^ed Avithout ornamentation.

Marsh-Mallow. — Take one pound each gum arable and fine sugar, half a pint of the decoction of marsh-malloAV root, two or three drops essence of neroli, or a small quantity of orange flower Avater and Avhites of six eggs ; puh'erize the gum arable very finely, after Avhich place it in a round-bottomed basin (Avhich must be very clean and Ijright). Add to it one and a half ]nnts Avater, place it upon a slo7n fire to dissoh'e. stirring it constantly Avith a Avooden spatula or paddle to prevent its adhering to the bottom and scorching. When it is entirely dissolved strain through a fine wire strainer into a clean basin. Noav add tlie decoction of marsh-mallow and sugar, place over a sIoav fire (one cov- ered Avith a thin layer of ashes), and cook to a thick consistence, stir-

CONFECTIONERY. 141

ring constantly ;add well-whipped whites and continue stirring without intermission in order to whiten it and also to prevent its sticking to the pan, which would discolor and entirely spoil the paste. Test it by placing the back of the hand upon the paste ; if it does not adhere to it, it is done. Add the neroli or the orange flower water, continue to stir a few minutes longer, then place on marble slab well dusted Avith starch or sugar powder. Flatten out and dust w'ith starch powder, and Avhen it has become cold cut it into strips or pieces. Keep in tin boxes well powdered with starch in order to pre^ vent it from sticking. Cover boxes tightly so as to keep the air from it as much as possible. This is the genuine and original marsh-mal- low paste, the best article that can be made. Some dispense Avith the mallow root on account of its unpleasant taste and in lieu thereof use apple juice, or a decoction of apples, which is supposed to be equally good and to possess the same healing qualities as the mallow. Others again use C)nly pure water in the preparation of this paste. It is then simply y?^?'<; fie gomme, although its appearance is precisely the same as that of mallow paste. It is also sometimes flavored with extract of vanilla or raspberry juice, and sold aspate de guimauve.

White Nougat. — Ten pounds white sugar, half gallon strained honey, three pounds Ijlanched almonds, one tablespoon oil of lemon. After the sugar is melted and strained cook until nearly done ; have the honey boiling and pour on the sugar in the kettle ; set it on the fire again and when it boils up Avell pour out on a greased marble ; add the oil of lemon. When cool enough to handle turn it up and bleach on a candy-hook ; when white take off and spread it on the marble and s])rinkle the blanched almonds over it, fold up and spread out again, adding more almonds. Continue working it over the same way until all the almonds are worked in, then form into a long bar and cut up in square pieces.

Pop-corn Balls. — Dissolve one ounce white gum arable in half pint water, strain, add one pound granulated sugar and boil until when a little is cooled in a saucer it becomes so thick as to be stirred with difficulty. Pour over a half bushel of freshly popped corn and when well stirred up the kernels will adhere in a mass ; form into balls by pressing with the floured hands. Ordinary mo- lasses may be used for this purpose boiled to same degree, no gum being necessary. Pop-corn Cake is prepared the same, putting the mass while warm into tins and pressing with rollers into thin sheets, afterwards dividing them into small square cakes.

Everton Taffy. — Use brown sugar, and to each cup take quarter pound very best butter ; put into a clean, bright basin or pan and melt together over a brisk fire, stirring constantly with a wooden spatula, adding a few drops lemon juice. Ten minutes' boiling will bring it to the desired degree, the cracky which may be known by dropping a little upon a cold plate or saucer ; if it hardens at once,

142 CONFECTIOXERY.

it is done ; add lemon or vanilla flavoring just before the cooking is conijjlctod ; puiir it into buttered pans or on a marble table (slightly butten-d), and, -svhen cool enough, cut or mark it with a greased knife into square tablets; loosen it from the marble by running a knife under it before it becomes entirely cold. This is the real English recipe and and is the favorite confection of all true Britons.

Ij'iclxorii-nii.t Taif)/. — Two pints maple sugar, half pint water, or just enough to dissolve sugar; boil until it l)ecomes brittle ^^^^ by dropping in cold water; just before pouring out add table- ^ggp^ spoon vinegar; having prepared the hiekory-nut meats in '•"''y p»° halves, butter patty pans well, line with the meats, and pour taffy over them.

French Ti'iHeH. — These are made same as kisses, but the board upon wbieb they are baked should not be wet, that they may harden through. A cut of tube to be used in confectioner's bag when shaping them is here given.

Sugar Threads. — Boil sugar until brittle, put a few drops on buttered form and draw out the thread. Tf sufficiently cooked the thread can be twisted into any shape. If it becomes too cold to work, heat again.

Kiss Wafers. — Half pint blanched bitter almonds, heaping cup powdered sugar, Avhites of six eggs, one-third cuj) flour, two tablespoons corn-starch; blanch the almonds and pound them in a mortar, adding as soon as they are broken the white of an egg. Pound until ver}' fine. "When there is a smooth paste add the sugar, a little at a time, the whites of two eggs, one at a time, and the flour and corn-starch. When thoroughly mixed, add by degrees the three remaining Avliites. Butter the bottom of a flat baking pan and put the mixture C)n it in s])oonfuls ; spread it very thin, especially in the center, and bake in a quick oven. The moment the cakes are taken from the oven roll into the shape of cornucopias. If allowed to cool they cannot be rolled, and for this reason it is best to bake only half a dozen at a time. When all are shaped, fill with the kiss mix- ture made by beating whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, and stir- ring into them, lightly, four talilespoons p(3wdered sugar. Place the wafers in a warm oven for twenty minutes or half an hour, to dry. With the quantities given two dozen can be made.

Cochineal Coloring. — This is said to be quite harmless and is made by taking one ounce each ])0wdered cochineal, cream tartar, two drachms alum and a half pint Avatcr. Boil cochineal, water and cream tartar till reduced one-half, add tlie alum and put into small bottles. Use to color candies, cakes, blauc-mange and jellies.

CANNING FRUITS. 143

OA]>QisriiSrcr fuxjits.

In order to work intelligently, the principle applied in canning should be understood. The fruit is prepared by placing it in a vessel from which the external air ii^ entirely excluded, and this is eflfected by the use of heat to rarefy and expel the air that may be entangled in the mass of fruit or lodged in its pores. The preserya- tion of fruit does not dej^end upon sugar, though enough of this is generally used to make it palatable. The heat answers another pur- pose ; it destroys the ferment which fruits naturally contain, and so long as they are kept from contact with the external air they do not decompose.

Fruits for canning should be selected carefully, and are much better if gathered in the morning, in dry weather, with the morning sun upon them, if possible ; they will then haye their fullest flavor, and keep in good condition longer than when gathered at any other time. Until fruit can be used, it should be placed in the dairy, an ice-house, or a refrigerator. In an ice-house it will remain fresh and plump for several days. Fruit gathered in wet or foggy weather will soon be mildewed. All imperfect and over-ripe fruit must be rejected. Large fruits, such as peaches, pears, etc., are in the best condition to can when not quite fully ripe, and should be put up as soon as possible after picking. An easy way to peel peaches is to place them in a Avire basket, to the handle of which a cord has been tied, let down into boiling water for a moment (some use strong white lye), then into cold water, and strip off the skin. This is called the dipping process. The fruit must be at a certain stage to be prepared in this way, for if too green it will not peel, and if too

144 CANNING FRUITS.

ripe it will bo too much softened by the hot water. Peaches, pears,

and all large fruits should be thrown into

*'^-.-.^^===^ liiSi^^^^t an earthen vessel of cold water as soon as ''^^'"8 '^"'' ■ peeled,as exposure to the air darkens them.

But the fruit should not stand long in the water, as it will soon be- come soft, and it is better to prepare only enough for one can at a time. Cooking reduces peaches about one-half and pears one- third. Small fruits, such as l^erries, should never stand overnight if it is possible to avoid it, and should never be put in tin. The highest-flavored and longest-keeping fruits are best put up without paring, after having carefully removed the down Avith a fine but stiff brush. Use only the Ijcst sugar in the proportion of half a jDound of sugar to a pound of good fruit, varying the rule, of course, with the sweetness of fruit. Fine granulated sugar is the best for can- ning. In canning for pies many omit sugar, as the natural flavor is better preserved without it, and some prefer this method for all pur- poses ; several recipes without sugar are given. It is econom- ical, and well worthy of experiment. Cans put uj) in this way should have a special mark to distinguish them from the rest. Before beginning the Avork of canning have ready all the neces- sary utensils, Avhich include the following: A thin-bladed, sharp, steel knife which should be often Aviped off during the paring pro- cess (though a silver knife is l>etterAvhen fruit- is Avanted extra nice), an earthen A'^essel to hold fruit after it is peeled, scales for weighing, or tAvo pint measures, one each for measuring sugar and fruit, a por- celain-lined or granite irouAvare kettle Avith lip (a six-quart kettle is a good size and tAvo Aviil Ije found convenient), a tin skimmer for removing the scum, a sih-er or thoroughly clean Avooden spoon- (never use any other in fruit), a sih'cr knife for one-quart cans or round Avooden stick for two-quart o

CANNING FRUITS. 145

scribed with recipe, a large pan with heavy folded towel in bottom on which to stand cans while lieating, and plenty of holders and towels for lifting from stove and wiping off cans. Canned fruit is much nicer if syrup is strained when pouring into can, and for this purpose make a strainer of cheese-cloth cut round and large enough to sink into can-filler, and run a fine Avire or string into the top to tie or hold it in place, or use handled strainer as given above.

The cans must be thoroughly cleaned and tested to see if any leak or are cracked. If tin cans leak send them to the tinner ; if discolored inside they may be lined with writing paper and are thus used by many with success, but glass cans are always preferable. In buying stoneware for canning purposes be sure that it is well glazed, as fruits canned in jars or jugs imperfectly glazed sometimes become poisonous. Never use defective glass cans, but keep them for stor- ing things in the pantry, and in buying them, take care that they are free from flaws and blisters, else the glass will crumble off in small particles Avhen subjected to heat. Self-sealers are very con- venient, tliose with a porcelain-lined screw top being the best, the Mason ] 'referred. (The improved ]\[ason has a glass top held in place by a metal band screwing down over the can, and these are not reliable.) The "Almy" is highly recommended by many. The heat hardens the rubber rings used on self-sealers but new ones may now be procured at any furnishing store. Most of the earthenware and tin cans have a groove around the top for sealing Avith wax or putty ; sealing with the latter is most convenient as the jars can be opened readily with a strong fork or knife, and are much more easily cleaned than when Avax-soaled. Putty may be bought ready for use, and is soon made soft by molding in the hand. In using it should be worked out into a small roll, and pressed firmly into the groove Avith a knife, care being taken to keep it well pressed down as the can cools. Sealing-wax is bought ready prepared or can be made of tAA'o parts resin to one part beeswax melted together. In sealing pour Avax over coA^ers, filling the grooves, a

146 CANNING FRUITS.

There are several ways of preparing glass cans for fruit, among them the following : Wring a toAvel from cold water, double and wrap closely about and under the can so as to exclude the air, and fill ; or, put a towel in a steamer, set in the cans, and place over a kettle oicold water; boil the water, and when ready to fill, remove the cans and wrap in a towel wrung from warm water ; or wash the cans in tepid water and at once pour in the boiling fruit, but not too fast; and in any method used always pour into the center; or, when ready to can fruit, place the glass jars in a large pan of warm water on the ])ack of the stove, in which a tliick folded towel has been previously jolaced to guard against too great heat for the bot- tom of cans, placing the covers on the stove in a smaller vessel of water, make ready the syrup in the clean porcelain-lined or granite ironware kettle before mentioned, put in the fruit — it is better to prepare only enough fruit or syrup for two or three cans at a time — and by the time it is done the water in the pan will be hot and the cans ready for use. Peaches and pears are properly cooked when they can be pierced with a silver ft)rk. Use the wire spoon for lift- ing the larger fruits from the syrups and a silver fork to help place in the cans, Avhich should be done closely and compactly but care- fully, filling around the sides first, turning the inside halves of the fruit outward. Put in as much fruit as possiljle and then fill up with the hot syrup, first tying on the little cheese-cloth strainer here- tofore described, which catches all loose particles of fruit and makes a clearer syrup. Berries should be cooked from five to fifteen min- utes

this purpoi^c the bright tin dipper (if a ])itcher or ^.

cu|) is used it must first be heated to prevent crack- ing), then place on a hot platter, remove to table, wijie ofi' upper ])arts and \^\\i on the rubber rings ; be sure these are perfect and close-fitting, throwing away all that are imperfect; let stand two or three minutes, or till other cans have been filled, when the fruit ^vill liave shrunk away a little ; fill almost to top with the hot syrup, or if you have none, boiling water froin the teakettle will do Now carefully insert a silver knife into the cans, putting it in at the sides so as not to bruise the fruit, let it touch the bottom, and push gently around to remove the air bubbles, slowly pressing and withdrawing

CANNING FRUITS. 147

from all sides until the bubbles cease to come up ; seal at once, first filling to overflowing so that when the covers are screwed dovt^n the syrup squeezes out around the edge, taking care when canning ber- ries or tomatoes that none of the seeds overflow and are left on the rubber rings under the covers. Man}" insert a spoon in cans before filling and use the spoon to remove the air bubbles ; in canning ber- ries this answers very well, but the knife is better, especially for peaches, pears and all the larger fruits, as it is not so liable to bruise them and slips in easier around the sides. In the two-quart cans a round wooden stick may be used for this purpose, neither knife nor spoon being long enough. Wipe off" the cans with cloth wet in hot water and also inside of covers, in sealing, first screw on the covers as closely as possible with the hand, and as the cans cool turn down with the can-tightener, which always comes with the cans, this is a great help as it is impossible to screw covers on perfectly tight with the hands. Care must be taken to have the rubber ring show an even surface all round, for if it slips back at any point air will be admitted. When this is found to be the case take off the cover, find a ring to fit perfectly and re-seal (it may be necessary to add more syrup, which must squeeze out again as cover is tightened). Remove the cans from the hot platter and place where no current of air will strike them, wringing out a towel from hot water on which to stand them. When other cans are filled remove these to another part of table and set those filled last on the towel. After all are canned re-tighten the tops ; this retight- ening is very important and

148 CAXXIXG FRUITS.

in boxes of sand. Light injures all fruits, but especially strawber- ries. The place should be dry a4id dark and cool, but where there is fresh air ; if too Avarm the fruit will spoil, as heat makes it fer- ment and dampness causes mold. Cans should be examined two or three days after filling, and if syrup leaks out from the rim they should be unsealed, the fruit thoroughly cooked and kept for jam or jelly, as it will have lost the delicacy of color and flavor so desirable in canned fruits.

When canning a quantity of fruit, after removing the first lot of cans from the pan of hot water the water must be made tepid before setting in the remaining cans, then heated gradually to boiling again and kept hot until those cans are filled, repeating thus until all are done. If at any time there is not fruit enough to fill a can it may be left standing partly filled in the hot water until more fruit is cooked, then filled and removed like the rest to the hot platter. It is always best to cook a small quantity of fruit, either large or small, at a time (not more than one or two quarts of the large varieties, and two or three of berries) that it may be done evenly. If a large mass is cooked at once that in the bottom will be done sooner than that on top, and if stirred to secure uniformity its shape will be injured. It should also be cooked sloii^h/ to preserve the form, and the larger fruits after being put in the syrup must be watched very closely and each piece taken out and placed in can as soon as it be- comes tender, as some pieces will cook in much less time than oth- ers. In canning berries use as little water as possible, and some can successfully without Avater. To better preserve the form of fruit many place it in the cans raw, cover with a hot syruj) and cook by placing in a boiler of Avater. The same object is attained by first steaming the fruit, and when done carefully removing to the boiling syrup a moment or two, then i)lace in cans when steamed tender, or place at once in cans and fill up with hot syrup, testing by pierc- ing with a silver fork. The cold process has also been successfully tried by good housekeepers, and considering the amount of labor sa

CANNING FRUITS. 149

skimming until clear, then strain through a flannel bag and when cool bottle for use. Scientists claim that cane sugar when added to boiling fruit is converted to grape sugar whicli has far less sweeten- ing power than cane sugar, and advise housekeepers to sweeten fruits when brought to table for consumption instead of before can- ning. When dissolving sugar for syruj) it should be stirred con- stantly to prevent scorching. A good proportion for syrup for can- ning is one pint sugar to one quart water, which is enough for a two- quart can of fruit.

The flavor of canned peaches is improved by adding two or three whole peaches or dropping in the center of each can a few of the stones. Many leave the stone attached to one half, and others cook a number of stones with the fruit, then blanch as almonds and put meats in the cans. Peaches are sometimes canned whole, and the clingstone varieties are of course always put up in this way. Before peeling with a knife it is well to rub the fuzz oft' peaches with a coarse towel. Many parboil quinces before peeling. In preparing grapes it is better not to press the skins too closely, to avoid the formation of the disagreeable small particles, or what are called " clinkers,'^ in the canned fruit. As the acid is not fully developed until the fruit is thoroughly ripened this may be avoided also by canning before fully ripe. Currants are nice mixed Avith an equal weight of raspberries, and pears are improved by adding quinces or lemon peel. Equal quantities of quince and apple canned together will taste as if quince entirely. For ordinary family use quart cans are better for peaches and the larger fruits, two-quart cans for toma- toes and other vegetables, and pint cans for berries. Strawberriea keep their color best in stone jars ; if glass cans are used for them they should be buried in sand. If syrup is left after canning ber- ries it may while thin be flavored with vinegar, boiled a moment and then bottled and corked for a drink mixed with ice-water; or add the proportion of sugar given in recipes for jellies, allowing for the 'sugar used in canning, and make into jelly. All skimmings from fruits can b^ added to the vinegar barrel.

If tin cans which are closed with resin or soldering are used, great care should be taken that none drops into the can, as a single drop of resin will often make the whole can bitter. By covering first Avith a piece of cloth or white paper cut to fit the top, this will be avoided, and wetting this with brandy or alcohol tends to help

150 CANNING FRUITS.

preserve the fruit. On opening tin cans remember to pour all the fruit into an earthen or glass dish. If any part is not used at the time, reoook and return to dish, and it will keep for a day or two, many of the less perishable fruits longer. Or if ^jut up in self-seal- ing glass cans the fruit or vegetables left over will keep a day or two by simply returning to the cans, screwing on the cover and setting in refrigerator. Wines, cider, shrubs, etc., must be bottled, well corked, sealed, and the bottles placed on their ^des in a box of sand or sawdust. To can maple syrup, pour hot into cans or jugs and seal well. Quinces, pears, citrons, watermelon rinds and "'fiome of the smaller fruits, such as plun:is, cherries, currants, etc., harden when put at first into a syrup of their own weight of sugar. These should first be boiled tender in Avater, or in a very weak syrup, and the rest of the sugar added afterAvard. Fruits which become soft too readily and fall to pieces may be hardened a little by pouring the hot syrup over the fruit, or strewing part of the sugar over it and letting it stand aAvhile to draw out the juice ; or it may be skimmed out of the syrup after cooking a fcAv minutes, placed in the sun two or three hours, and the boiling syrup poured over it afterward. As many recipes for canning give proportions in pounds, the table of weights and measures in back part of book will be found a conven- ient reference when scales are not at hand. A l)ushel of jjeaches makes about twelve or thirteen quarts, and pears almost twice as many as peaches ; a bushel of either blackberries, blueberries or rasj)berries makes about nineteen quarts, and strawberries about sixteen or seventeen. T