OATSXTPS AISTD SAUCES

["Always select perfect fruit; cook in porcelain or granite iron-ware, never in brass. In making catsup, instead of boil- ing, some sprinkle tlic tomatoes with salt and let them stand overnight, then strain and add spices, etc., and a little sugar. Bottle in glass or stone, and never use tin cans ; keep in a cool, dry, dark place. If on opening there is a leathery mold on top. care* ''•■\"''\"'' fully remove every particle of it and the catsuj)", "will not be injured. To prevent this molding some do not fill the bottles quite to the top with catsup, l)at fill U}) with hot vinegar. If tin re are white specks of mold all through the catsuj? it is spoiled. If on opening and using a part there is danger that the rest may sour, scald, and if too thick add vinegar. Sauces should always be made with great care in a pan set in hot water, having the sauce- pan l)right and clean if a delicate flavor is desired, especially if the sauce is drawn butter ; or the custard-kettle will be found conven- ient, as the stock or other foundation may first be heated quickly by putting the inner kettle on the stove, and when other ingredients are added and there is danger of burning place again in the outer ket- tle made ready with boiling water. Butter and those sauces con- taining eggs should never boil. Wooden spoons or paddles must be used for stirring. A set of pad- ^^^^^^m^^^^^^^^^^^^ dies of diflferent sizes will be found ^^^^^\"^^^^^^^^^^^ convenient for stirring sauces, gravies, siat.iu.", "mushes, and many other dishes, and will not scratch or mar the kettle or pan. When necessary to scrape down the, sides of kettle", "CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 161", "in which catsup or other mixtures of like character are being cooked, an artist's spatula -will be found the best utensil and should be pro- vided in every kitchen rather than destroy the temper of sharpened knives by heat.", "The pulp of fruits is used for the foundation of all catsups and wonderfully retains the fl a V o r , notwithstanding- all the ingredients added. Use a fine Avire sieve or strainer in their prepara- tion — the extension strainer is the most convenient — and a good rule is to allow for every quart of the juicy pulp one pound sugar, two blades mace, three of cinnamon, one teaspoon each whole cloves and pepper corns ; boil all down one-third, then skim out spices, add sugar, boil till thick, reduce to a proper consistency with vinegar, and bottle for use. This applies to cherries, plums, grapes, and all kinds of berries.", "The preparation and appearance of sauces and gravies are of the highest consequence, and in nothing does the talent and taste of the cook more display itself. Their special adaptability to the va- rious viands they are to accompany cannot be too much studied, in order that thev may harmonize and blend with them perfectly, and in serving do not pour over but around the me;it. Sauces should possess a decided character, and whetlier sharp or sweet, savoury or plain, they should carry out their names in a distinct manner, al- though, of course, not so much flavored as to make them too piquant on the one hand, or too mawkish on the other. Brown sauces, generally speaking, should scared}- be so thick as white sauces, and it is well to bear in mind that when intended to mask the various dishes of poultry or meat, th^v should be of a sufficient consistency to slightly adhere to the fowls or joints over which they are poured. For browning and thickening sauces, etc., browned flour may be properly employed. The caramel coloring answers very well for sauces and gravios, but when they can be made to look brown by using browned flour, catsup, tomatoes, or any color sauce, it is far preferable. As, however, in cooking so much depends upon appear- ance, perhaps it would be as well for the inexperienced cook to use the caramel. When no browning is at hand to heighten the color of sauce, dissolve a lump of sugar in an iron spoon over a sharp fire ;", "162 CATSUPS AND SAUCES.", "when it is in a liquid state, drop it into the sauce or gravy quite hot. Care, however, must be taken not to put in too much, as it would impart a very disagreeable flavor.", "Gravies and sauces should be sent to table very hot, and there is all the more necessity for the cook to see to this point, as from their being usually served in small quantities, they are more liable to cool quickly than if they were in a larger body. The lain marie will be found almost indispensable for this purpose. This is a large open vessel kept filled with hot (not boiling) water at the back of the stove or range or in some warm place. In this several stew- ]ians, or large tin cups with covers and hand- les, are fitted which are intended to hold all the cooked dishes that are to be kept hot until the rest of the dinner is ready to serve. \"When a dinner is delayed, there is no better Avay of keeping all dishes hot, and preserving their B.in Mad.", "fiavor. If a ha'ni marie is not among the cooking utensils a large dripping-pan of hot water will be found a very good substitute, or lay two or three bricks on back of stove or range on which to set sauces, vegetables, etc., until ready to serve.", "Those sauces of which cream or eggs form a component part should be well stirred as soon as these ingredients are added to them, and must never be allowed to boil, as they would instantly curdle. White pepper is a much nicer seasoning than l)lack for sauces and all fine cooking, as it does not color and has not so pungent a flavor. An excellent thickening for soups, sauces and gravies is prepared as follows : Bring butter just to the boiling point in a small stewpan, dredge in flour, stirring together until well cooked. This, when not cooked brown, is \"White Roux,\" and when browned, \"Brown Roux.\" Thin ^his with a part of the soup, sauce or gravy, and ;idd it to tlie whole, stirring thoroughly. The flour may ho browned bofor.e using if intended for brown gravies or sauces. A ri*clier thickening is made in the proportion of the yolks of tliree eggs to eight tablesi)oons milk or cream. Beat the yolks, add the milk and strain through a fine sieve. When adding to the sauce it must be stirred during the whole time or the eggs will cur- dle, and the mixture should only just simmer, not boil. If sauce is lumpy after adding thickening rub again through a sieve. Melted butter or American Cooking Oil may be used in place of oil in all", "CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 163", "recipes in which the latter is named. Sauces may also be thick- ened with potato flour, ground rice, baked flour, arrowroot, etc. ; the latter will be found far preferable to ordinary flour for white sauces. Milk or water may be used instead of stock in sauces, but the latter is better, giving a finer flavor, though milk is richer. \"When any green coloring is used if lemon juice is to be added it should not be put in until just before sending to table. Any flavored vinegar pre- ferred may be used instead of the plain. An English salt sold by most grocers is best for seasoning sauces and all cooking, giving a more delicate flavor, with none of the fishy taste found so objectionable in most salt. Where a sieve is to be used in making sauces, use the puree sieve.", "Herbs for seasoning are usually dried dur- ing the summer. The best kinds are sage, thyme, p^rea sie^ sweet marjoram, tarragon, mint, sweet basil, parsley, bay leaves, cloves, mace, celer}^ seed and onions. If the seed of any of the seven first mentioned is planted in little boxes on the window sill, or in a sunny spot in the yard, all needed can generally be raised. Gather and dry as follows : Parsley and tarragon should be dried in June and July, just before flowering; mint in June and July; thyme, marjoram and savory in July and August; basil and sage in August and September ; all herbs should be gathered in the sunshine, and dried by astificial heat; their flavor is best preserved by keeping them in air-tight tin cans, or in tightly-corked glass bottles. Mint, when used in recipes, usually means \"spearmint\" or ''green mint,\" though pennyroyal and peppermint are of the same family. The young leaves of from one to six inches in length are the parts used. It groAvs on any good garden soil, but comes forward earlier in a warm, sunny spot. It is propagated by cuttings or dividing the roots of old plants in the spring, is very prolific, and ought to find a place in every garden. Those who have conservatories should keep a root in pots, to use with spring lamb before the leaves would ap- pear in the open air. Mint leaves for drying should be cut from the stalks just before the plant blossoms, and spread out thinly in some dry, shady place, where they can dry slowly. When dry, put up in paper bags and keep in a dry place until wanted. Celery seed is a very nice addition to the flavoring of sauces, and may be used in- stead of the fresh celery when the latter is out of season. Pickled", "164 CATSUPS AND SAUCES.", "nasturtium seed, for which a recipe is given under Pickles, will be found a good substitute for capers and is often used. Gherkins, (small cucumber pickles) cut in small pieces, are also used instead of capers when the latter are not obtainable. When drawn butter is used in the composition of sauce to which lemon juice or \\dnegar is to be added, always make it with water, never with milk, as the combination of the latter with the acid would be most unwhole- some.", "The common practice of preparing mustard for the table with vinegar, or still more, with hoiling water, materially checks the development of those peculiar principles on which its pungency or strength almost entirely depends, and cold water may cause it to ferment. It should therefore be mixed with water that has been boiled and cooled to lukewarm. Put the mustard in a cup with a small pinch of salt and mix with it very gradually sufficient water to make it drop from the spoon without being watery. Stir and mix well, rubbing the lumps down with the back of a spoon until smooth, and do not add flavoring until this paste is made. Mustard is much better freshly made, and only a small quantity should be mixed at once.", "Barheri']/ Catsup. — Three quarts barberries stewed and strained, four quarts cranberries, one cup raisins, a large quince and four small onions, all stewed with a quart of water and str^iined. Mix these ingredients with the barberries and add half cup vinegar, three-fourths cup salt, two cups sugar, one dessert-spoon each ground clove and ground allspice, two tablespoons each black pep- per and celery si^xl, and one of ground mustard, one teaspoon each cayenne, cinnamon and ginger, and a nutmeg. Let the whole boil one minute ; if too thick add vinegar or water. With the quantities given about three quarts of catsup can be made.", "Cherri/ Catsup. — One pint pure cherry juice, half pound sugar, teaspoon each ground cloves and cinnamon. Boil to thick syrup and bottle.", "Cucuniher Catf!vp. — Pec^l, seed and grate on coarse grater, one dozen large green cucumbers; |)ut the pulp in a large towel and wring out aU moisture that can be extracted ; pc(d and grate or chop fine four lj6*ge onions and mix with the grated cucumber, adding one ounce celery seed, heaping teaspoon white pepper, tablespoon salt, half pint salad oil or American Cooking Oil, ana sufficient xin- egar to make as thin as ordinary' catsup. \"\\\\'hen all are thoroughly", "CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 165", "blended put into wide-mouthed glass jars, put a teaspoon oil in top of each jar and seal air-tight ; or peel and chop three dozen cucum- bers and eighteen onions very fine ; sprinkle over them three-fourths pint table salt, put the whole in a sieve and let drain overnight ; add a cup mustard seed, half cup ground black pepper, mix well, and cover with good cider vinegar.", "Currant Catsxi/p. — Four pounds fully-ripe currants, one and a half pounds sugar, tablespoon ground cinnamon, teaspoon each salt, ground cloves and pep]jer, pint vinegar ; stew currants and sugar until quite thick, add other ingredients and bottle for use ; or, take juice of five pounds currants, three pounds sugar, one pint vinegar, two tablespoons ground cinnamon, one each of cloves, allspice and black pepper, one grated nutmeg and a pinch of salt. Cook one-half hour.", "Elderberry Catsup. — Pick from the stalk as many ripe elder- berries as are wanted to put down, put into a stone jar with enough strong vinegar to cover them, bake in a hot oven three hours and strain while hot. Boil the liquor thus obtained with cloves, mace, peppercorns and four or five shallots, enough to give a considerable flavor ; taste, and when flavored as liked, put in one-half pound of the best anchovies to every quart of liquor ; stir and boil only until dissolved ; bottle in pint bottles and cork carefully, sealing by dip- ping corks in hot sealing-wax.", "Grape Catsup. — Boil, and strain five pounds grapes through a colander, add to the juice one pint vinegar, two and a half pounds sugar, one tablespoon each ground cinnamon, cloves, allspice, pep- per, and a half tablespoon salt. Boil again until a little thick, bottle and seal.", "Gooseherry Catsup. — Nine pounds gooseberries, five pounds sugar, one quart vinegar, three tablespoons cinnamon, one and a half each of allspice and cloves ; the gooseberries should be nearly or quite ripe. Take off blossoms, wash and put them into a porcelain kettle, mash thoroughly, scald and put through the colander, add sugar and spices, boil fifteen minutes and add the vinegar cold ; bot- tle immediately before it cools. Ripe Grapes prepared by same rule make an excellent catsup.", "Lemon Catsiip. — One pound and a quarter of salt, quarter of a pound of ground mustard, one ounce each of mace, nutmeg, cayenne and allspice, one gallon of cider vinegar, eight or nine garlic cloves, fifteen large lemons ; slice the lemons, add the other ingredients, let simmer from twenty to thirty minutes, place in a covered jar, stir every day for seven or eight weeks, strain, bottle, cork and seal.", "Liver Catsup. — Rub a very fresh beef liver thoroughly with rolled salt and place it in a vessel that will not crush it ; turn and", "166 BAUCE3 AND CATSUPS.", "rub thoroughly for ten days, then mince into small dice and boil in a gallon of water closely covered until reduced to three quarts ; strain through a sieve and let settle till next day ; add one ounce each gin- ger and allspice and two ounces whole black pepjier, and boil slowly until reduced to three pints. When cold bottle and keep well corked.", "Oyster Catsup. — Procure oysters very fresh and open sufficient to fill pint measure ; save the liquor, and scald the oysters in it with one pint good cider, strain the oysters and put them in a mortar with a tablespoon salt, one drachm cayenne, and two drachms pounded mace ; pound the whole until reduced to a pulp, then add it to the liquor in which they were scalded ; boil it again five minutes, and gkim well ; rub the whole through a sieve, and when cold, bottle and cork closely. The corks should be sealed.", "P€2)per Catsii]). — Take four dozen large red pepper-pods, three quarts vinegar, three tablespoons grated horse-radish, five onions and one clove garlic. Boil until soft, and strain through ^ sieve. Then add two tablespoons each of black pepper, allspice, mace, cloves and salt. Boil again ten minutes ; then bottle. Some add one quart tomatoes and one cup sugar.", "Plum Catsup. — To three pounds fruit take one and three- fourths pounds sugar, one tablespoon each cloves, cinnamon and pepper, and a very little salt ; scald and put plums through the sieve then add sugar and spices and boil to right consistency.", "Tomato Catsup. — Half bushel ripe tomatoes, four ounces salt, three ounces ground black pepper, one ounce cinnamon, half ounce ground cloves, one drachm cayenne pepper, one gallon vinegar ; slice the tomatoes and stew in their own liquor until soft, and rub through a sieve fine enough to retain the seeds ; boil the pulp and juice down to the consistency of apple-butter (very thick), stirring steadily all the time to prevent burning ; then add the vinegar with which a small cup sugar and the .rpices have been mixed, boil up twice, re- move from fire, let cool and bottle. Those who like the flavor of onions may add about half a dozen medium sized ones, peeled and sliced, fifteen minutes before the vinegar and spices are put in.", "Tomato Catsup. — Take one bushel firm ripe tomatoes, wipe them off nicely with a damp cloth, cut out the cores, and put them in a i^orcelain-lined iron kettle or a genuine bell-metal one. Place over tlio fire, and pour over them about three pints water, throw in two large handfuls peach leaves, with ten or twelve onions or shal- lots cut fine. Boil until the tomatoes are done, which will take a])Out two hour;- ; then strain through a coarse-mcsh sieve, pour the li([uid back again into the boiling kettle and add half a gallon good strong cider vinegar; have ready two ounces ground s}>ice, two ounces ground black pepper, two ounces mustard (either ground or in the seed, as you prefer), one ounce ground cloves, two grated nut-", "CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 167", "megs, two pounds light brown sugar, and one pint salt ; mix these ingredients well together before putting in the boiler ; then boil two hours, stirring continually to prevent burning. If you like the cat- sup \"hot,\" add cayenne pepper to your taste. When cool, fill bot- tles (reeded bottles are the nicest, they can be procured at the house furnisher's and a set will last some time ; they look better than ones of all sizes and styles). Cork and seal Avith bottle-wax so as to ex- clude the air. Keep in a cool, dry place for future use. This recipe is preferred to all others — it has been used for years. It keeps well, and has been pronounced by competent judges superior to all others.", "Tomato Catsup. — Stew and strain four quarts unpared, sliced tomatoes, add two tablespoons each salt, mustard and black pepper and quarter tablespoon ca^^enne, more or less as liked, cup of brown sugar and pint vinegar. Boil to the consistency of cream, watching carefully to prevent burning, then set on back of stove and add half a tablespoon each of cinnamon and cloves and a pint of currant jel- ly, mixing thoroughly ; can or bottle while hot. Horse-radish bot- tles or any small, wide-mouthed bottles are best for this purpose; seal with corks and dip in sealing wax. This Avill keep two years.", "Walnut Catsup. — Procure one liundred walnuts at the time when you can run a pin through them, slightly bruise, and put them into a jar with a handful salt and one quart vinegar; let them stand eight days, stirring every day, then drain the liquor off them, add one-fourth ounce each mace, nutmeg, cloves, ginger, and whole black peppers, small piece liorse-radish, twenty shallots, or onions, and one- lourth pound anchovies, and boil half an hour. It may be strained or not as preferred, and if required a little more vinegar can be added accordinof to taste. Bottle and seal.", "Almond Sauce. — Blanch and pound sweet almonds and add enough white stock to make it of the consistency of thickened gravy. Pour over boiled mutton-chops.", "Anchovy Sauce.. — Bone four anchovies and pound them in a mortar to a paste with one ounce butter. Melt a half pint butter and when hot stir in the pounded anchovies and cayenne to taste, sim- mer three or four minutes and if liked add a few drops of lemon juice. A quicker and easier way of making this sauce is to stir one and one-half tablespoons anchovy essence into one-half pint drawn butter, add a little lemon juice and seasoning to taste ; boil one min- ute and serve. Less of the essence may be used if thought too strong. Serve with baked fish.", "Apple Sauce. — Pare, core and quarter tart apples, throwing into cold water until all are pared, to preserve their whiteness ; put them", "168 CATSUPS AND SAUCES", "in a saucepan with sufficient water to moisten them and boil till soft enough to pulp; beat them, adding a small piece butter, and some like a little sugar and nutmeg. Serve with roast pork, goose, or duck. May be colored, if desired, with beet root, cochineal, or a little si)inach juice. To make Brown Apple Sauce^ cook the apples in half pint brown guivy and finish as above, leaving out sugar, and seasoning with cayenne instead of nutmeg.", "Asparagus Sauce. — Break a bundle of green asparagus in the tender part, wash well and put into boiling salt water, to render green ; when tender take out, ])ut into cold water and drain on a cloth until all moisture is absorlied. Put one tablespoon fresh but- ter in a saucepan with a small bunch parsley and three or four green onions ; lay in the asparagus and fry the whole over a sharp tire five minutes ; add salt, a large lumj) sugar and four tablespoons white stock and simmer another five minutes ; rub all tln'ough a sieve and if not a good color use a little spinach coloring. This sauce should be rather sweet.", "Bread Sauce. — Put giblets of a fowl witli the )ieck and legs in a saucepan with one onion, twelve whole peppers, one blade mace, salt to taste, and rather more than a pint water ; let simmer one hour, strain the liquor over three-fourths ])ound bread crumbs, cover and leave one hour where it will keep warm, then beat up with a fork until nice and smooth ; boil three or four minutes, stirring until rather thick, add three tablcsi^oons melted butter or cream, and send to table hot Avith roast fowl or game. A nice Avay of serving is to fry coarse crumbs a light brown in tablespoon very hot butter, stir over hot fire two minutes without burning. Cover the breasts of roasted birds with these, and serve the sauce poured around the birds, or in a gravy dish. Add the chopped gildets for Gibht Saure. Another good bread sauf-e can be made by placing a sliced onion and six peppercorns in a half pint milk over boiling water until onion is per- fectly soft ; strain it over a half pint grated bread crumbs without crust and leave it covered for an hour ; beat it smooth, add pinch of salt and two tablespoons butter rubbed in a little fiour ; add enough sweet cream or milk to make it the proper consistency and boil a few minutes. It must be thin enough to pour.", "Caper Sauce. — To a pint drawn butter sauce add three table- spoons capers, either whole or chopped once or twice ; a hard boiled egg chop})ed fine may be added, or just after taking from fire stir in yolk of an egg beaten w'ith teasi)oon water. If to be served with fish flavor with teaspoon each lemon juice and essence of anchovy. Or chop two tablespoons capers and add them to a half ])int drawn butter, with piece of lemon, teaspoon Worcestershire sauce and a pinch cayenne ; put on fire and simmer a few minutes ; mix a teaspoon flour with a very little cold water and add to sauce. Mutton Caper Sauce is made as follows : Fifteen minutes before", "CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 169", "the mutton is done melt two tablespoons butter in a saucepan, stir into it one tablespoon flour ; when thoroughly mixed add half a pint of the liquor in which the mutton is boiling, and half a pint of milk, season Avith pepper and salt, cook a few minutes, and just before serving (in order that their color may not be lost l)y standing) add two heaped tablespoons capers. Never let sauce boil after adding capers.", "Celery Sauce. — Scrape the outside stalks of celery and cut in pieces an inch long, let stand in cold water half an hour, then put m boiling salted water, enough to cover, and cook until tender; drain off water and dress Avith butter, salt, a little mace, and milk or cream, thickened with a little flour. Or make a dressing by adding to half pint milk or cream the Avell-beaten yolks of two eggs, a bit of butter, a little salt and pepper and grated nutmeg ; bring just to boiling point, pour over stewed celery. Another sauce is made by cutting the tender parts of a head of celery very fine. Pour on water enough to cover them, cover the saucepan and set where it will sim- mer one hour; mix two tablespoons flour and four of butter; when tlie celery has boiled one hour add to it the butter and flour, one pint milk or cream, season to taste, boil up once and serve Avith roast duck, or roast or boiled fowl.", "Chestmtt Sauce. — Take one-half pound shelled chestnuts, and put them into boiling Avater for a fcAV minutes ; throAV into cold Avater, take off the thin inside skin and put them into a saucepan with a half pint Avhite stock and tAvo strips lemon peel, or a tea- spoon juice, and let them simmer an hour and a half, or until chest- nuts are quite tender. Put the Avhole through a hair sicA^e AAdth a AA'ooden spoon, add seasoning of cayenne and a gill of cream ; let it just simmer, but not boil and keep stirring all the time. SerA^e A^ery hot and quickly. If milk is used instead of cream, tAvo teaspoons butter and one of flour AA'ill be required ; melt butter, stir in flour, and Avhen smooth add to the mixture. If sauce is not perfectly smooth rub again through a sieve. To make Broum Chestnut Sauce take same_ proportions, using any soup stock, or the broth from the foAvl, if boiled, stirring butter and flour over the fire until browned, or adding a teaspoon caramel coloring. Serve either of the aboA'e sauces with roast turkey or other roast or boiled fowl.", "Chill Sauce. — TAvelve large ripe tomatoes, three ripe or tAvo green peppers, leaving out half the seeds, two onions, tAvo table- spoons each salt and sugar, one of cinnamon, three cups Aanegar ; peel tomatoes and onions, chop separately very fine, add the finely chopped peppers Avith the other ingredients, and boil one and a half hours. Bottle, and it Avill keep a long time. Stone jugs are better than glass cans. One quart of canned tomatoes may be used instead of the ripe ones. This chili sauce is excellent and \"much better and more healthful than catsups. If liked more highly spiced add one-", "170 CATSUPS AND SAUCES.", "half teaspoon cloves and one-third teaspoon each ginger and nutmeg. A half pint of Worcestershire sauce is sometimes added.", "Crnh Saiwe. — Choose a nice fresh crab, pick all the meat away from the shell, and cut it into small square pieces. Make a half pint drawn butter, i)Ut in the fish and season with salt, pounded mace and cayenne to taste ; lot it gradually warm through and sim- mer two minutes. It should not boil. Almost equals lobster sauce and served the same.", "Cranherry Sauce. — After removing all soft berries, wash thor- oughly, place for about two minutes in scalding water, remove, and to every pound fruit add three-quarters of a jDOund granulated sugar and a half pint water; stew together over a moderate but steady fire. Be careful to cover and not to stir the fruit, but occasionally shake the vessel, or api)ly a gentler heat if in danger of sticking or burning. If attention to these ])articulars be given, the berries will retain their shajie to a considerable extent, which adds greatly to their appearance on the table. Boil from five to seven minutes, remove from fire, turn into a deep dish, and set aside to cool. If to be kept, tliey can be put up at once in air-tight jars. Or, for strained sauce, one and a half pounds of fruit should be stewed in one pint Avater for ten or twelve minutes, or until quite soft, then strain through a puree or fine wire sieve, and three-quarters pound sugar thoroughly stirred into tlie pulp thus obtained ; after cooling it is ready for use. Serve Avith roast turkey, roast pork or game, ^^\"hen to be kept for a long time without sealing more sugar may be added, but its too free use impairs the peculiar cranberry flavor. For dinner-sauce half a pound is more economical, and really ])referalile to three-quarters as given above. Use a porcelain or granite ironware kettle. Some pre- fer not to add the sugar until the fruit is almost done, thinking this plan makes it more tender, and preserves the color better.", "Cream Sauce. — Heat one tablespoon butter in a skillet, add a tablespoon flour and stir until ])erfectly smooth, then add gradually a cup cold milk or cream, let boil up once, season to taste with salt and pepper, and a little mace or lemon juice if wished, and serve. Butter may be omitted when cream is used if thought too rich. This is very nice for vegetables, omelets, croquettes, delicate meats, fish, or sweet breads.", "Currayit Sauce. — Half an hour before venison is done pick over an ounee of dried currants, wash them well, put them over the fire in half i)iut hot water and boil them fifteen minutes ; then add two heaping tablespoons bread crumbs, oneof butter, a palatable season- ing of salt and ])epper, and six whole cloves, and boil the sauce gently; just before serving it add a tablespoon currant jelh'' beaten with a cup water or stock, or gravy from the game. Serve with venison or other game.", "CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 171", "Currant Jelly Sauce. — Three tablespoons butter, one onion, one bay leaf, one sprig celery, two tablespoons vinegar, half cup cur- rant jelly, one tablespoon flour, one pint stock, seasoning. Brown butter and onion, add flour and herbs, then the stock, and simmer twenty minutes. Strain, skim off the fat, add the jelly and stir over the fire until melted ; serve Avith game.", "Curry Sauce. — One tablespoon each butter and flour, one tea- spoon curry powder, one large slice of onion, one large cup stock, salt and pepper to taste. Cut the onion fine and brown in the but- ter, add the flour and curry powder, stir one minute, add the stock and season to taste. Simmer five minutes, strain and serve. Good with a boil or saute of fish or meat.", "Drawn Butter Sauce. — Rub two tablespoons butter into half a tablespoon flour, beating to a cream,adding,if needed, a little salt ; pour on it half a pint boiling water or milk, stirring it one vxiy rapidly, and taking care not to let it quite boil, as boiling makesj it oily and unfit for use. The boiling may be prevented by cooking in the cus- tard kettle as heretofore suggested, or placing the saucepan in a larger one of boiling water, covering and shaking frequently until it reaches the boiling- point. Now pass through a sieve and stir in a tablespoon butter cut in pieces. If necessary to reheat, return to custard kettle. This makes one pint sauce. If liked acid, a few drops vin- egar or lemon juice may be added just before serving. In the thickening of all sauces, let it be remembered that butter and flour sliould be well cooked together before the sauce is added,to prevent the flour from tasting uncooked. In butter sauces, however, only enough butter should be used to cook the flour, adding the remainder cut in pieces after the sauce is taken from the fire. This preserves its flavor. An excellent Pickle Sauce is made by adding two tablespoons finely chopped pickled cucumbers to drawn butter sauce prepared as above. Or, make with cream and add boiled cauliflowers cut with vegetable cutter, for CauliHouier Sauce, excellent with boiled fowl. Another good sauce for fowl is the Lemon Sauce, made by adding to the drawn butter sauce the chopped inside of a lemon (without the seeds) and the liver of the fowl chopped fine. A great variety of sauces which are excellent to eat with fish, poultry or boiled meats can be made with the drawn butter sauce by adding different herbs, such as parsley, mint or sweet", "172 CATSUPS AND SAUCES.", "Egg Sauce. — Put one cup each water and milk on fire to scald, and -svlien hot stir in tablespoon flour, previoush'- mixed smooth with a very little cold water, add three eggs well beaten and strained, season with salt and peppei , two tablespoons butter and a little Avhite vinegar ; do not let boil after eggs are put in ; boil four eggs hard, slice and lay over the dish ; a little nutmeg and a few thin slices of lemon are sometimes added ; pour over sauce, and serve with boiled fish. Or, take yolks of two eggs l)oiled hard and mash with a table- spoon mustard, a little pepper and salt, three tablespoons vinegar and three of salad oil. A tables})oon of catsup improves this for some. Very nice for boiled fish. Or, to a pint drawn butter sauce, without herbs, add four hard-boiled eggs chopped fine.", "Gooseberrif Sauc3. — Boil one pint green gooseberries in water until quite tender ; strain them, and rub them tlu'ough a sieve. Put into a saucepan three tablespoons French White Sauce, or veal gravy will do, with two tablespoons butter and seasoning of salt, pepper and grated nutmeg to taste ; add the pulp from the goose- berries, mix all well together, and heat gradually through. A little pounded sugar added to this sauce is by many persons considered an improvement, as the saccharine matter takes off the extreme acidity of the unripe fruit. Serve with boiled mackerel.", "IloUandaise Sauce. — One-half cup broth, milk or water, cup butter, yolks of four eggs, juice of one lemon, a dozen pepper-corns, nutmeg and salt. Boil the broth with the peppercorns, a scra^D of broken nutmeg and level teasi)Oon salt. When flavored strain the broth into another saucepan or tin cup. Put intw^o-thirds of the butter and the four yolks and 1)eat it with a fork over the fire until it thickens like cream. Then take it off\" and beat in the rest of the butter in little bits, beating until all is melted. Then squeeze in the lemon juice, or use vinegar for a substitute. The sauce must never fairly boil, only just begin to. It should be cooked in cup set in boiling water. There is a moment, about a minute after set to cook, that the sauce is at its thickest degree, like softened butter. After that a separation or curdling takes place, not very plain to the eye, but that makes the sauce thin and spoils it. Serve W'ith fish, caidi- flower, asparagus, or any vegetable. It is golden yellow, shining and smooth, just thick enough to be taken up on the point of a knife, if for fish, but needs to be thinner for vegetable dressing.", "Ilorse-radisJi Sauce. — Grate very fine a root of horse-radish, mix two tables])oons of it with a teaspoon salt and four tablespoons cream, stir briskly and add by degrees a fourth tablespoon vinegar. Or, take four tablespoons horse-radish and mix well with one table- spoon each sugar and salt, one-half teaspoon pepper and two tea- spoons made mustard, with sufficient vinegar to give it the consis- tency of cream. Especially nice with corned beef, and acceptable with almost any meat. It is sometimes prepared by adding to two", "CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 173", "tablespoons grated horse-radish one dessert-spoon olive-oil (or melted butter or cream), and one of made mustard. To prepare Horse- radish for Winter^ in the fall mix the quantity wanted in the fol- lowing proportions : A coffee-cup grated horse-radish, two table- spoons white sugar, half teaspoon salt, and a pint and a half cold nnegar. Bottle and seal.", "Italian Sauce. — One cup brown sauce (roast meat gravy, strained and skimmed), one teaspoon minced onion, two each of minced mushrooms and parsley, juice of one lemon, cayenne and salt to taste. Pour half the juice from the can of mushrooms into the brown sauce, add the other ingredients and simmer together fif- teen minutes. Nice with fried trout or other fish. If fresh mush- rooms are used they should not stand after chopping or they will turn black.", "Indian Chetney Sauce. — Chop eight ounces sharp sour apples, pared, cored and cut in small square pieces, and add to them eight ounces each tomatoes, salt, brown sugar and stoned raisins, four ounces each cayenne and powdered ginger, two ounces each garlic and shal- lots, three quarts vinegar, one quart lemon juice; mix the whole well together, and put in a well-covered jar. Keep this in a warm place, and stir every day for a month, taking care to put on the lid after this operation ; strain, but do not squeeze it dr}^ ; store it away in clean jars or bottles for use, and the liquor will serve as an ex- cellent sauce for meat or fish. Some prefer to cook the apples in the vinegar before adding other ingredients. ^", "Leamington Sauce. — Be very particular in choosing the walnuts as soon as they appear in the market; for they are more easily bruised before they become hard and shelled. Pound them in a mortar to a ])ulp, strew some salt over them, and let them remain thus for two or three days, occasionally stirring and moving them about. Press out the juice, and to each quart walnut-liquor allow three quarts vinegar, one pint soy, one ounce cayenne, tow ounces shallots, three-fourth ounce garlic, and half pint cooking wine. Pound each ingredient separately in a mortar, then mix them well together, and store away for u.-^e in small bottles. The corks should be well sealed. This sauce should be made as soon as walnuts are obtainable, from the beginning to the middle of July. The soy spoken of above is a sauce frequently made use of for fish and is manufactured by both the Japanese and Chinese, that of the for- mer being the best. This article is sometimes adulterated but when genuine it is of an agreeable flavor, thick, and of a clear brown color.", "Lemon Sauce. — Put three-fourths pint cream into a very clean saucepan (a lined one is best), with one lemon-peel, one-half teaspoon whole white pepper, and a sprig of lemon thyme, and let these infuse", "174 CATSUPS AND SAUCES.", "for half an hour, when simmer gently for a ievf minutes, or until there is a nice flavor of lemon. Strain it, and add a thickening of three tablespoons of butter and one of flour; stir this well in, and put in juice of one lemon at the moment of serving; mix one cup white stock with the cream, and add a little salt. This sauce should not boil after the cream and stock are mixed together. Milk may be used instead of crcnm, with another tablespoon flour. An excel- lent sauce for fowls, fricassees, etc. The recipe makes enough for two fowls. Or, a simple method is to cut tln-ee slices lemon into very- small dice, add to drawn butter, let boil up once and serve.", "Liver and Lemon Sauce. — ^Vash the liver of a fowl and let it boil a few niinutes ; peel one lemon very thin, reserve the white part and pips and cut it into very small slices; mince the liver and a small quantity of the lemon rind very fine ; add these ingredients to a half pint smoothly made drawn butter, season with a little salt, put in the cut lemon, heat it gradually, but do not allow it to boil lest the butter should oil. Serve with poultry.", "LAver and Parsley Sauce. — \"Wash and score the liver of a fowl, boil it for a few minutes and mince it very fine ; scald a small bunch of parsley of which there should be sufficient when chopped to fill a tablespoon ; add this with tlie minced liver to a half pint smoothly made drawn butter, let it just boil and serve with fowl.", "Lobster Sauce. — Choose a hen lobster, as this is indispensable in order to render this snuce as good as it ought to be. Pick the meat from the shells, and cut it into small square pieces ; put the spawn, which will be found under the tail of the lobster, into a mor- tar with half ounce butter, and pound it quite smooth ; rub it through ahair-sieve,and coveruptill wanted. Make three-fourths pint of drawn butter, and add one tablespoon anchovy sauce, one-half ounce l)utter, salt and cayenne to taste, a little pounded mace if liked, and two or three tablespoons cream. Mix well before the lobster is added to it, as it should retain its square form, and not come to table shredded and ragged. Put in the meat, let it get thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to boil, as the color would im- mediately be spoiled; for it should be remembered that this sauce should always have a bright red appearance. If it is intended to be served with turliot or brill, a little of the spawn (dried and rubbed through a sieve, without butler) should be saved to garnish with; but as the goodness, flavor, and appearance of the sauce so much depend on having a proj^er quantity of spawn, the less used for gar- nishing the better. This makes sufficient to serve with a small turbot, a brill or salmon for six persons. For a very small lobster, use only a half pint drawn butter and season as above. The re- mains of a cold lobster may with a little care be converted into a very good sauce. Or, break the shell of the lobster into small", "CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 175", "pieces ; pour over them one ]iint water or veal stock, add a pinch of salt and\"^ simmer gently until the liquid is reduced one-half. Mix two ounces butter Avitii an ounce flour, strain the liquid upon it and stir all over the fire until the mixture thickens ; do not let it boil. Add two tablespoons of the lobster meat, the juice of half a lemon, and serve. Improved by a tablespoon of lobster butter if at hand. An economical sauce may be made by chopping the meat of the tail and claws of a good-sized lobster into pieces (not too small). Half an hour Ijefore dinner, make half a pint of drawn butter, add the chopped lobster, a pinch of coral, another of cayenne, and a little salt.", "Mai/07inaise iSauce. — ^^'ork the yolks of two raw eggs to a smooth paste and add two salt-spoons salt, half a salt-spoon cay- enne, a salt-spoon dry mustard and a teaspoon olive oil ; mix these ingredients thoroughly and add the strained juice of half a lemon; take the remainder of half a pint olive oil and add it gradually, a tea- spoon at a time, and ever}'- fifth teaspoon add a few drops of lemon juice until you have used two lemons and the half pint oil. Or, rub the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs Avith the yolk of one raw egg to a smooth paste ; add a heaping teaspoon salt, two salt-spoons white pepper, and two salt-spoons made mustard ; mix thoroughly and work a gill of oil gradually into the mixture alternating witli^a tea- spoon of tarragon vinegar until you have used three tablespoons vinegar. Should the sauce appear too thick add a wineglass of cream gradually. In mixing the oil and lemon juice or vinegar, some put in only a few drops at a time, alternately, to insure against curdling. Yor a Fish Mayonnaise this sauce may be colored with lobster-spawn, pounded ; and for poultry or meat, where variety is desired, a little parsley juice may be used to add to its appearance.", "Mint Sauce. — Take, fresh young mint, strip leaves from stems, wash, drain on a sieve, or dry them on a cloth ; chop very fine, put in a sauce-tureen, and to tliree heaped tablespoons mint add two of pounded sugar ; let remain a few minutes Avell mixed together, and pour over it gradually six tablespoons of good vinegar. If members of the family like the flavor but not the substance of the mint, the sauce may be strained after it has stood for two or three hours, pressing it well to extract all the flavor. It is better to make the sauce two or three hours before dinner, so that the vinegar may be impregnated with the mint. Serve with either boiled or roast lamb. The addition of three or four tablespoons of the liquor from the meat is an improvement. This makes sufficient situce for a three or four-pound joint. When green mint is scarce and not obtainable, mint vinegar may be substituted for it and will be found acceptable in early spring.", "Olive Sauce. — Two dozen queen olives, one pint rich stock, the juice of one lemon, tAvo tablespoons salad oil, one of flour, salt, pep-", "176 CATSUPS AND SAUCES.", "per, a small slice of onion. Let the olives stand in hot water half an hour to extract the salt, then i)laee in cold water five minutes. Put onion and oil in stcAvpan, and as soon as the onion hegins to color add Hour. Stir until smooth, and add stock. Set hack where it will simmer. Carefully stone the olives hy paring them round in rihbons so that they inay recover their shape when stoned. Put them in the sauce, add seasoning, and simmer twenty minutes. Skim carefully and serve. If sauce is liked thin, half the amount of flour given'can be used. This sauce is for roast duck and game.", "Onion Sauce. — Peel nine large or twelve middling-sized white onions, and put them into water to which a little salt has been added, to preserve their whiteness, and let them remain tifteen min- utes. Put in sauce] )an, cover with water and boil until tender, changing the water, if onions are very strong, when tliey have boiled fifteen minutes. Drain thoroughly, chop and rub through sieve, ^lake a pint drawn butter, and Avhen it boils jnit in the onions, sea- son with salt, stir till it simmers and the sauce will 1)6 ready to serve. If directions are carefully followed this White Onion Sauce will be delicious. Serve with roast shoulder of mutton or broiled raljbit. To make this sauce very mild and delicate use Spanish onions which may l)e obtained from first of Seiitcmber to Christmas. Two or three tables])oons cream added just before serving improves it very much. A knife and sieve or small wire strainer should be kept ex- ])ressly for })reparing onions, that their flavor may not be imparted 1o other dishes. To make Brown Onion Sauce slice and fry the (iniuns in butter, add half pint any gravy, simmer until tender, skim off all f;it, season Avith pepper and salt and ]nit through a sieve, re- heat and serve. When a high flavoring is liked add one tablespoon mushroom catsup.", "Orange Sauce. — Peel half an orange, removing all the pith ; cut into slices, and then in fillets ; put them in a gill of water to boil for two minutes ; drain on a sieve, throwing the water away ; place in the saucepan two si)()ons of demi-glaze, or ten of broth ; and, when boiling, add the orange and a little sugar; simmer ten minutes, skim, and serve. The juice of half an orange is an improvement. This is served with ducklings and water fowl ; cayenne and mustard may be added if liked.", "Oyster Sauce. — Strain the liquor from a half pint oysters and add enough milk or water to make one pint ; stir in a half cup but- ter beaten to a cream with two tablespoons flour. Let this come to a boil, add the* oysters and let them boil up once — cooking long hardens them. If wanted really nice the oysters should be bearded. Or add a few dro])S lemon juice or vinegar, a tables})Oon capers, or use a seasoning of cayenne or anchovy sauce. The sauce is richer if cream instead of water is used in making the drawn butter, but in this case do not add the lemon juice or vinegar. Never allow less", "CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 177", "than six oysters to each person, unless making a large quantity. Serve with fish or boiled poultry. To make Broicn Oyster Sauce, use above ingredients, stirring butter and flour together over the fire until a dark brown, and serve with boiled or stewed beefsteak.", "Parsley Sance. — Boil two tablespoons parsley slowly in slightly salted water, drain and cut fine, and add it to one-half pint smoothly-made drawn butter, with -one-half teaspoon salt and a tablespoon vinegar. Boil up and serve. If sauce is wanted to look green boil the other ingredients together and pour over the scalded and chopped parsley already in the gravy tureen. Stir once or twice and serve with calf's head, boiled fowl, etc.", "Shrimp Sauce. — Free a pint of shrimps from bits of sea-grass and broken shells, throw them into salted boiling water, and boil them for a few moments, until the shells turn red, then drain them and break ofi' the heads, legs and shells ; the available part is the flesh of the tails. After the shrimp are prepared, put a tablespoon each of butter and flour in a saucepan over the fire . and stir them until tbey are smoothly blended ; then gradually stir in a pint boiling water, season the sauce with two saltspoons salt and a liberal dust of cayenne, put in tbe shrimp, and serve the sauce with boiled fish. Garnish the dish with a few whole shrimps. Another method of making this sauce is to add to a pint drawn butter sauce a half can shrimps, flavor with two tablespoons essence of anchovies or a tea- spoon anchovy paste. At the last moment a few drops lemon juice and a little cayenne may be added.", "Tartare Sauce — Yolks two eggs, gill salad oil or melted butter, salt-spoon salt, half a salt-spoon ])epper, a tablespoon good cider vinegar, half teaspoon each mustard and sugar, and a tablespoon gherkins. Beat together lightly in a small bowl the vinegar and yolks, add to these, drop by drop, the salad-oil or melted butter, taking care to stir the same way all the time ; when this is done, season the mixture witli pepper, salt, and mustard ; add also the gherkins finely chopped ^or capers may be substituted), and serve in a gravy boat with bciled salmon or cold meats. Or, mince two small English pickles, one-fourth of an onion, and a few sprigs of parsley together. Add them to three tablespoons mayonnaise sauce and the juice of half a lemon. ]\\Iix and serve (see mayonnaise sauce;. A few tarragon leaves will improve the sauce. This is called the perfection of sauces for fried fish.", "Tomato Sauce. — Stew ten tomatoes with three cloves, and pep- per and salt, for fifteen minutes (some add a sliced onion and a sprig of parsley), strain through a sieve, put on the stove in a saucepan in which a lump of butter the size of an egg and level tablespoon flour have been well mixed and cooked, stir all until smooth, and if wanted to remove seeds put through a sieve, reheat and serve,", "178 CATSUPS AXD SAUCES.", "Canned tomatoes may be used as a substitute. Or stew half a dozen tomatoes in a pint stock with a sUce of ham cut into dice, a bay- leaf, a blade of mace, three drops pepper sauce and three small pickled onions ; stir the whole over a gentle fire until done, then press them tlu-ough a sieve, add salt, and put the sauce again upon the fire till it is very hot.", "French Tomato Sauce. — Cut tomatoes into quarters and put them in saucepan with salt to taste, a good handful of basil, and three or four cloves of garlic ; a little water should be put into the saucepan to prevent the tomatoes catching. When they are thor- oughly done turn them out upon a hair sieve and wait till all the water has drained from them. Throw away this water and ])ass the tomatoes through tlie sieve ; ]>ut the l)ul]) into a saucepan, boil half an hour, and a moderate quantity of black pepper may be added to taste. When tlie sauce is quite cold put it into wide-mouthed bot- tles, cork tightly and tie up each cork Avith string or wire ; dip the neck of each bottle into melted resin and they may then Ije put away to be used when required. The bottles should be of moderate size, for once opened the sauce will no longer keep good. If before put- ting on the wire the bottles of sauce are placed upright in a large vessel full of cold water and this is put on the fire until the Avater boils, the preservation will be more certain still, and the sauce will keep good for any length of time. Care must be taken, however, not to remove the bottles from the vessel until the Avater has become perfectly cold.", "White Sauce. — Stir one tablespoon each butter and flour together over the fire until smooth, add one pint milk, season with salt and Avliite pe])per, and let l:)oil up once. Strain if not perfectly smooth. Tliis is the plain Avliite sauce, so niee served Avith A-egeta- bles, and Avhicli is also used by many as the foundation for other sauces instead of the rich draAvn l)utter. J^roicn Sauce is made same Avay, stirring tiie butter and flour over the fire initil a dark broAvn color, and AA'hen it is at hand using a pint froth from boiling meat instead of the milk.", "French White Sauce. — As Avhite stock is the foundation of this sauce, it must be i)repared first as folloAvs : Cut up four pounds knuckle of veal, any poultry trimmings, and four slices of lean ham, put it into a saucepan Avhich has been rub1)ed Avith butter, moisten Avith half pint Avater and simmer till gravy l)egins to flow ; tiien add four quarts Avater, three carrots, two onions, one head celery, tweh^e white pei)pcr-('orns, a blade of mace, bunch of herl)S, tablespoon each butter and salt. Simmer five hours, skim, strain carefully, and the White Stock is ready for use. Consonune is made exactly the same Avith double the quantity of meat or half the Avater. For the sauce put one pint stock in the saucepan Avith a small bunch pars-", "CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 179", "ley, two cloves, half bay-leaf, small bunch savory herbs, three or four mushrooms when obtainable, and salt to taste. When it has boiled enough to extract the flavor from the herbs, etc., strain and boil up quickly again until it is nearly half reduced. Mix one table- spoon arrowroot smoothly with a pint cream and simmer gently five minutes over slow fire ; add to it the reduced stock, and if stock is thick continue to simmer slowly for ten minutes, but if thin, stir over brisk fire till it thickens. This is the well known Bechamel Sauce, and is the foundation of many others, especially white sauces. Many make it thick, as it is easily thinned with cream or white stock. To make Broivn Stock or Sauce stir three-fourths tablespoon flour with a tablespoon butter over the fire until a dark brown color and add to white stock.", "Caper Butter . — Chop one tablespoon capers very fine, rub through a sieve with a wooden spoon, and mix with a salt-spoon salt, quarter of a spoon pepper, and one ounce cold butter. Put a layer of this butter on a dish, and serve fish on it.", "Brawn Butter. — Cut one-fourth pound (or four well-rounded tablespoons) butter up into small pieces, put in saucepan, dredge over a dessert-spoon flour, and add four tablespoons water and a seasoning of salt ; stir it one loay constantly till the whole of the ingredients are melted and thoroughly blended. Let it just boil, when it is ready to serve. If the butter is to be melted with cream, use the same quantity as of water, but omit the flour ; keep stirring, but do not allow it to boil. Another way of making, which is also used as a sauce, is to mix the flour and water, rubbing down all lumps with a spoon, and put in a saucepan v/ith the water and salt, adding one-half spoon white vinegar and a very little grated nut- meg. Simmer, not boil, until it thickens.", "Lobster Butter. — Mix the spawn and coral of a lol:)ster with double the quantity of butter, a little cayenne, and pound in a mor- tar to a paste. May be used in flavoring lobster sauce and garnish- ing or decorating cold salmon, etc.", "Parsley Bittter. — One-fourth pound butter, two dessert-spoons minced parsley, the juice of one large lemon and salt and pepper to taste, well worked together. Serve over or around either meat or fish.", "Ca^ramel Coloring. — Put one cup sugar and two teaspoons water in a saucepan over the fire, stir constantly till it is a dark color, then add a half teacup Avater and a pinch of salt, let boil for a few mo- ments, take off\", and when cold, bottle.", "180 CATSUPS AND SAUCES.", "Parsley Coloring. — Procure nice young parslej', and wash and dry thorough!}'' in a cloth ; pound the leaves in a mortar until all the juice is extracted, and put juice in teacup or small jar, set in a saucepan of boiling water and warm it just enough to take off its rawness. Let it drain and it will be ready for coloring.", "Spinach Coloring. — Wash a peck of spinach, pour on it two quarts l)oiHng water and let it stand one minute. Pour off the water, and pound the spinach to a soft pulp. Put this in a coarse towel and squeeze all the juice into a small frying pan. (Two people, by using the towel at the same time, will extract the juice more thoroughly than one can). Put the pan on the fire, and stir until the juice is in the form of curd and whey. \"Watch closely and do not \"boil. Turn on a sieve, and Avhen all the liquor has been draineil off, scrape the dry material from the sieve and put away for use. Another mode is to put with the juice in the frying-pan three table- spoons sugar, and cook live minutes ; then bottle for use. This is really the more convenient way. Spinach green is used for coloring soups, sauces and creams.", "French Mustard. — Slice an onion in a bowl and cover it with good vinegar; after two days pour off the vinegar, add to it a tea- spoon each cayenne pepper and salt, a tablespoon sugar, and mus- tard enough to thicken ; set on the stove until it boils ; when cold it is fit for use.", "Indian Mustard. — Put one-fourth pound each mustard and flour and a half tablespoon salt into a basin, and make them into a stiff i)aste with boiling water. Boil four shallots with four table- spoons each vinegar and catsup, and one-fourth bottle anchovy sauce, for ten minutes, and pour the whole, boiling, over the mixture in the basin ; stir well, and reduce it to a proper thickness ; put it into a bottle, with a bruised sliallot at the bottom, and store away for use. If properly prepared will kec]) for years. An excellent relish for liread and butter and very nioe with meats.", "Prepared Mustard. — Three teaspoons ground mustard, one of flour (two if the mustard seems very strong), half teaspoon sugar; pour boiled water cooled to lukewarm on these and mix into a smooth, thick paste ; when cold add vinegar enough to make ready for use, and serve with salt. This resembles the French mustard. Another mode of preparing is to make a dressing of one cup vin- egar, two eggs, one tablespoon each pepper, sugar and salt, butter size of a walnut ; beat well and simmer over the fire to cook the eggs ; then add a tablespoon mustard wet in lukewarm water. Mus- tard may be flavored in various ways, with tarragon, shallot, celery, and many other vinegars, herbs, spices, etc.", "Tartar Mustard. — INIix a half cup mustard and a slight season- ing of cayenne with sufficient horse-radish vinegar to render it per-", "CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 181", "fectly smooth, rubbing lumps down with back of spoon, adding the vinegar a little at a time, and not making it too thin.", "Curri/ Powder. — An ounce each ginger, mustard, and pepper, three each of coriander seed and turmeric, one-half ounce carda- raon, quarter ounce each cayenne pepper and cumin seed ; pound all fine, sift and cork tight. One teaspoon of powder is sufficient to season an}' thing. This is nice for sauces, boiled meats and stews.", "Dried Celery and Parsley. — Wash the leaves, stalks, roots and trimmings of celery and put them in a cool oven to dry thor- oughly ; then grate the root, rub leaves and stalks through a sieve and put all in tightly corked bottle. Delicious seasoning for sauces, soups, stews and dressing. Save all bits of parsley and preserve for future use in same manner, not using the roots ; or, take freshl}'- gathered parsley and wash it perfectly free from grit and dirt ; put into boiling water which has been slightly salted and well skimmed, and then let it boil for two or three minutes ; take out, let drain, and place on a sieve in front of the fire, when it should be dried as ex- peditiously as possible. Store it away in a very dry place in bot- tles, and when wanted for use pour over it a little warm water, and let stand for about five minutes. This may be done any time be- tween June and October. Celery salt is made by mixing the root dried and ground as above with one-fourth its quantity of salt. A very nice seasoning, and will kee^j a long time.", "Fried Parsley. — Gather some young parsley ; wash, pick, and dry it thoroughly in a cloth ; put it into the wire egg basket and hold it in boiling lard or drippings for a minute or two. Directly it is done, lift out basket, and let stand before the fire that the parsley may become thoroughly crisp, and the quicker it is fried the better. Should the kitchen not be furnished with the above article, throw the parsley into the frying-pan, and when crisp, lift it out, dry before the fire, and when thoroughly crisp it will be ready for use. This is used for garnishing.", "Spiced Salt. — Dry, powder, and mix by repeated siftings the following: One-fourth ounce each powdered thyme, bay-leaf and", "Eepper, one-eighth ounce each marjoram and cayenne pepper, one- alf ounce each powdered clove and nutmeg, and to every four ounces of this powder add one ounce salt. Keep in an air-tight vessel. Nice for spicing sauces, and one ounce of it added to three pounds stuffing, or force meat of anv kind makes a delicious sea- soning.", "182 CHEESE.", "The many appetizing, varied and really elegant dishes con- cocted with the aid of cheese b}' modern cooks, render this prod- uct of the dairy indispensable to every well appointed table. And while the opinion prevails to some extent in this country that imported cheese is superior to that of home manufacture, this is not by any means true, as is proven by the fact that immense quantities of American cheese are annually exported, most of wliicli is mar- keted in p]ngland, where it is eagerly sought for. The English, how- ever, and other foreign manufacturers, brand their cheese with the name of the locality in which it is made, and hence several fine varieties, as the Stilton, the Cheshire, Gruyere, Parmesan and others have very justly become celebrated. \"While equally as good cheese is manufactured in America, notably in New York and Northern Ohio, and nearly every state has factories turning out excellent prod- ucts, it goes abroad witli no distinctive brand, and is sold along with other cheese, good, bad and indifferent, simply under the name of American cheese ; and as a buyer who may have once been fortu- nate enough to secure a good American article has no means of knowing that his next purchase will be of the same manufacture, because of the American want of foresight in neglecting to jn-operly brand cheese, and often gets poor stuff under the same general name, we are placed at a great disadvantage in competing with foreign manufacturers. Instead of aiming to make home cheese famous, American manufacturers have taken to catering to the popular pre-", "CHEESE. 183", "judice in favor of the imported article, and much of what is sold here as English, Swiss and Italian cheese, is made upon our own shores, and is of such excellent quality that the most prejudiced cannot dis- tinguish between it and the real imported brand.", "Cheese varies in quality and richness according to the quality of the materials of which it is composed, and is made of the \"entire\" milk — new milk, or milk with the cream unskimmed — of milk and cream, that is, the morning's milk with the cream of the evening before; of new milk mixed with skimmed milk, and of skimmed milk only. Strong, means of a high flavor and odor but not neces- sarily sharp. Most new cheeses are relatively mild, and develop their characteristics, especially sharpness, with age. The Romans smoked their cheese to give it a sharp taste. The most celebrated varieties of the foreign cheeses are the following : The Parmesan, a hard, high flavored article, slightly sharp, manufactured in Parma and Piacenza, Italy, which is supposed to get its flavor from the rich herbage of the pastures of the river Po, is made entirely of skimmed milk, and the best is that whicli has been kept three or four years, none being marketed under six months ; it is highly prized for grat- ing and cooking. The best English cheeses are the Stilton, Ches- hire and Cheddar, the first of which is finest and richest, made from cream and milk, and requires two years to ripen ; the Cheshire is made of entire milk, and the Cheddar, of mild flavor, is made of skimmed milk, like the Parmesan, which it much resembles ; the Dunlop is the only Scotch cheese well known in America, and has a peculiarly mild and rich taste ; the Gruj'-ere is the best of the Swiss cheeses and has a fine flavor, but the Neufchatel, which comes in little rolls about an inch thick and three inches long, is perhaps best known in America and is cheap and delicious ; care must be taken when purchasing to see that it is not musty. The Germa", "184 CHEESE.", "ordinary cheese, imitations of English Dairy, American Factory, and California cheese, Avhich is only al>out half the weight and thickness of Eastern, and instead of being incased in a round wooden box like the Eastern, is handhnl loose or naked in the wholesale market. None of the American cheeses are classed among strong cheeses. They are good all the year round. The foreign varieties, or equally as good American imitations, may all be had in the larger cities, while excellent, if not Uie l)est. American factory cheese is obtainable everywhere. Sage cheese is made by the addition of bruised sage leaves to the curd, which imparts a greenish color and a flavor liked by many. Cream cheese is not properly a cheese, although so called, but is simply cream dried sufficiently to be cut with a knife. Cheese from milk and potatoes is manufactured in Thuringia and Saxony. Cheese may l^e had in small, round shapes, brickl)ats, the thin Cali- fornia cheeses, etc., as Avell as shaped in the ordinary large round hooj\"), or by the pound therefrom. All cheese, except the foreign skim-milk makes, contains more or less coloring matter, principally annatto, turmeric, or marigold, all perfectly harmless unless they are adulterated.", "In families where much cheese is consumed, and it is ]:)ought in large quantities, a piece from the whole cheese should be cut, the larger quantity spread with a thickly buttered sheet of white paper, and the outside occasionally wiped. To keep cheese moist a damp cloth should be Avrapped round it (wet with white wine or alcohol is better), and the cheese put into a pan or crock kept covered in a cool but not very dry place. To ripen cheeses, and bring them for- ward, put them into a damp cellar, and to check the production of mites spirits may be poured into the parts affected. Pieces of cheese which are too near tlie rind, or too dry to put on table, may be made into \\\\'clsh rare-bits, or grated down and mixed with maca- roni. Cheeses may be preserved in a perfect state for years, by covering them with parchment made pliable by soaking in water, or by rubl.)ing them over with a coating of melted fat. The cheeses se- lected should be free from cracks or bruises of any kind. The usual mode of serving cheese is to cut a small quantit}' of it into neat square pieces, and to put them into a glass cheese-dish, this dish being handed round. Should the cheese crumble much, of course this 'vi^Zt \"cheelT method is rather wasteful and it may then be put on the table in the", "CHEESE. 185", "piece, and the host may cut from it. When served thus, the cheese must always be carefully scraped, and laid on a white doyley or napkin, neatly folded. Cream-cheese is often served in a cheese course, and, sometimes, grated Parmesan ; the latter should be put into a colored glass dish. Rusks, cheese-biscuits, and salad, or water-cress, should always form part of a cheese course, which is served just before the dessert. It is English to serve celery or cucum- bers Avith it. Thin milk crackers or wafer biscuits (put into the oven just a moment before serving, to make them crisp) should be served with cheese ; butter also for spreading the crackers, this being the only time that it is usually allowed for dinner. Macaroni with cheese, Welsh rare-bits, cheese omelets, or little cheese cakes, are good substitutes for a cheese-course. In serving a- Stilton cheese, the top of it should be cut off to form a lid, and a napkin or piece of white paper with a frill at the top, pinned round. When the cheese goes from table, the lid should be replaced. Those made in May or June are usually served at Christmas; or, to be in prime order, should be kept from ten to twelve months, or even longer. An artificial ripeness in Stilton cheese is sometimes produced by inserting a^small piece of decayed Cheshire into an aperture at the top. From three weeks to a month is sufficient time to ripen the cheese. An additional flavor may also be obtained by scooping out a piece from the top, and pouring therein port, sherry, ''Maderia, or old ale, and letting the cheese ab- sorb these for two or three Aveeks. But that Stilton Cheese. chccse Is tlic fiucst wliicli is ripened without any", "artificial aid, is the opinion of those who are judges in these matters. A dry cheese is best for grating, and the Parmesan, Edam and Ched- dar are largely used for this purpose, but any dry cheese or bits left over may be utilized. If the kind called for in any of the following recipes is not at hand, use the ordinary cheese. Serve as hot and as quickly as possible, for if allowed to cool the flavor and quality of the melted or cooked cheese is spoiled. In buying cheese, that which feels soft cheese Bucket. between the fingers is richest and best. When mites have taken pos- ession of a cheese, and one wishes to use it, the following recipe will have the effect of destroying them without injury to the cheese ;", "186 CHEESE.", "Wipe the cheese, put it into a pot in which mutton ha.= been cooked, whilst the water is yet hot, make the water boil a few seconds, take out cheese, wij^e immediately, dry and then put it away in a dry place until required for use. The cheese bucket illustrated Avill be found the most convenient receptacle for cheese, the close-fitting cover excluding air and insects, and is much more easily moved about than a crock.", "Cheese Cakes. — Take twelve ounces curd made as in recipe for cream cheese, (product of four c^uarts milk), half cup each sugar, and butter, four yolks of eggs and a ])inch of salt, flavoring with grated lemon rind, or extract and nutmeg. Rub the curd, as taken from the draining cloth, through a puree sieve, add the other in- gredients and mix well together. Line patty-pans Avith paste, near- ly fill with the mixture, bake about fifteen minutes. The curd mixture, though seemingly too firm at first, melts and puffs up in the oven. Dredge powdered sugar over the tops when done. These are very delicious. As substitutes for rennet curd, which is as sweet as pounded almonds, the curd of sour milk and the curd of a custard that is spoiled through letting it boil, can be used if prepared by scalding and draining in the same way, but will not be quite so good.", "Cheese Crusts. — Cut stale bread in slices about two inches and a half thick ; trim off crust, place on a baking-pan and on each slice of bread put a heaping tablespoon of any mild cheese grated, or a very thin layer of strong, rich cheese ; on the top of the cheese put very little salt and pepper, and a bit of butter, and set the pan in a hot oven just long enough to slightly brown the crusts ; watch them, because they should only be browned a little ; let them cool on the baking-pan, and then transfer them, Avithout breaking them or dis- turbing the cheese, to the dish on which they are to be served. Cheese crusts may be used at family dinners as a sort of dessert, or served at dinner or luncheon with any green salad or celery.", "Cheese Dlahlotins. — Put a gill milk in a stewpan, with two tablespoons butter; when boiling, stir in two tablespoons flour, keep !^^ stirring over the fire until the bottom of the stew- .*i p;^u is dry, then add four eggs by degrees, and a", "\"\" i>ound grated cheese; mix well, season with j)ep-", "Diabiotins. per, Salt, and cayenne, rather highly, mold the", "paste into balls with the forefinger against the side of the stewpan containing it, drop them into hot lard; fry of a nice light brown, and serve very hot ; a quarter of this quantity may of course be made. An excellent dish.", "CHEESE. 187", "Cheese Fingers. — Roll pie paste out thin and cut into strips about four inches long and one and one-half wide ; strew each thickly with grated cheese, season with popper and salt, double the paste lengthwise, enclosing the cheese, pinch the edges and bake in quick oven. Wash over with beaten egg just before taking out and sift a little powdered cheese on top. Shut oven door a moment to glaze them well ; pile log-cabin fashion on a napkin in a warm dish and serve hot.", "Cheese Fondu. — There are many Avaj's of preparing this dish, of which the following are considered the best : Four eggs, the weight of two in cheese, Parmesan or Cheshire if obtainable, the weight of two in butter; pepper and salt to taste. Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs ; beat the former in a basin and grate the cheese, or cut it into verr/ thin flakes. Break the butter into small pieces, add it to the other ingredients with sufficient pepper and salt to season nicely, and beat the mixture thoroughh\\ Well Avhisk the whites of eggs, stir them lightly in last, and put into oven as quickly as possible. Bake in a souffle dish or small round cake tin. Fill only half full, as it should rise very much. Pin napkin round the dish if there is no ornamental receptacle, and serve very hot and quickly. If allowed to stand after taken from the oven, the beauty and lightness of the fondu will be completely spoiled. If one has not an ornamental receptacle, a pretty way of serving is to line the baking pan with paper cut in a fringe at the top. Or bake in indi- vidual molds or tins of small size lined thus with paper, or in thick paper molds of any fancied form, remembering that they must be only half filled when put in oven. Another excellent recipe is to take as many eggs as there are to be persons at table, weigh them in the shell, and take one-third their weight in the best cheese to be had, and one-sixth as much butter as cheese. To the well-beaten eggs add the grated cheese and the butter broken into small pieces, and stir together with a wooden spoon ; put over the fire and stir until thick and soft ; add salt and pepper to taste and serve on very hot silver or metal pla", "Cheese Fritters. — Put six tablespoons flour in a bowl and pour a half tablespoon melted butter into the center ; add to this, by", "188 CHEESE.", "degrees, eight tablespoons tepid water, beating all the time, yolk of one egg, half teaspoon each popper and dry mustard, and three heaping taljlespoons grated Parmesan cheese, and last tlie well- beaten white. Drop a tablespoon at a time into hot clarified fat or lard. As the fritters brown and rise to top, turn and brown the other side; place jMCce of kitchen paper (any clean, coarse brown pa])er) in a baking pan in open oven and put the browned fritters upon it for a moment that the pa}:)er may absorb the fat, then serve upon a hot plate covered with a hot napkin and garnished with sprigs of parsley.", "Cheese Omelet. — Beat up eggs as for ordinary omelet (see Eggs) and add to them the cheese cut in small pieces, a tablespoon to three eggs. The cheese may be stirred in quickly just before fry- ing, or strewn over the omelet in the pan. A seasoning of salt and pep]>er should be added after putting in pan. Parmesan cheese should be grated and beaten in with the eggs, adding a little more just before folding the omelet, and serving with the grated cheese sprinkled on top. Serve as hot as i:)Ossible and it will be delicious.", "Cheese Puddwcj. — One-half pound dry cheese, grated fine, one cup dry bread-crumbs, four well-beaten eggs, one cup minced meat — one-tliird ham, two-thirds fowl — one cup milk and one of good gravy — veal or fowl — one teaspoon butter, and a pinch of soda in the milk ; season with pepper and a very little salt. Stir the milk into the beaten eggs, then the bread-crumbs, seasoning, and meat ; lastly the cheese. Beat up well, but not too long, else the milk may curdle in spite of the soda. Butter a mold, pour in the i)udding, cover, and boil three-quarters of an hour steadily. Turn out upon a hot dish and pour the gravy over it. Or, grate three ounces cheese and five of bread; and having warmed one ounce butter in a quar- ter ]iint new milk, mix it with the above, add two well-beaten eggs and a little salt. Bake half an hour.", "Cheese Puifs. — Three ounces cream curd, one quart rich milk curdled with rennet, one gill milk, one tablespoon butter, one cup flour, two ounces grated cheese, three eggs. Have the curd scalded and drained dry, as in making cheese or smearkase. Boil the milk with the butter in it, drop in the Hour all at once and stir the paste over the fire a few minutes ; take off fire and put in the curd and the grated cheese, and pound the mixture smooth ; then add the eggs one at a time and beat them in. Drop spoonfuls of this mixture into patty-pans, Imed thinly with pie paste, and bake in a slack oven ; or else roll mixture very thin, cut in triangular shapes, put a spoonful of the mixture in the middle and pinch up the sides like a three-cornered hat, and bake on a l)iscuit pan. They will open out in baking. Good to eat with apple-sauce.", "Cheese Relish. — Place small piece butter in frying-j)an with one-fourth pound thinly sliced fresh cheese and pour over it a cup", "CHEESE. 189", "sweet milk, quarter teaspoon dry mustard, pinch salt and pepper, stirring all the time, then add gradually three finely rolled crackers and serve at once in a warm dish.", "Cheese Sandwiches. — Rub yolks of three hard boiled eggs to a smooth paste with one tablespoon melted butter, season with pepper and salt, and work in one-fourth pound good English cheese, grated, or any cheese may be used. Spread the mixture on very thin slices of bread, and fold. Or place slices of good rich cheese half an inch thick between slices of brown-bread and butter, set them on a plate in oven until well toasted and serve on napkin quickly while very hot.", "Cheese SouMe. — Two tablespoons butter, one heaping table- spoon flour, half cup milk, cup grated cheese, three eggs, half tea- spoon salt, speck of cayenne. Put the butter in the saucepan and when hot add the flour and stir until smooth but not browned, add the milk and seasoning and cook two minutes, then add the well beaten yolks of eggs and the cheese ; set away to cool ; when cold add the stiffly frothed whites, turn into a buttered souffle pan or baking dish and bake from twenty to twenty-five minutes. Serve the moment it comes from the oven. The dish in which this is baked should hold a quart.", "Cheese Soup. — Mix one and a half cups flour with one pint rich cream, four tablespoons each butter and grated Parmesan cheese with a speck of cayenne ; place the basin in another of hot water and stir until the mixture becomes a smooth, firm paste ; break into it two eggs and mix quickly and thoroughly, cook two minutes longer and set away to cool ; when cold roll into little balls size of American walnut. When the balls are all formed drop them into boiling water and cook gently five minutes ; put them in a soup- tureen and pour three quarts of clear boiling soup-stock over them. Pass a plate of finely grated Parmesan cheese with the soup.", "Cheese Vol au Vents. — Cut rounds of bread from slices an inch. thick, cut out an inner round, leaving a shallow CKftvity. Dip in beaten egg and fry a light brown. Then fill the cavities with a mixture made by stir- .__,.______^", "ring into a half cup of boiling water one table- chee87v^ao venu. spoon butter and five tablespoons grated cheese, and when this is melted the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Season with pepper and salt, beat together one minute and put in a handful bread-crumbs. After filling the rounds of fried bread brown very quickly in oven and serve on folded napkin.", "Cheese Straws. — Sift six ounces flour on the pastry-board, make a hole or well in the center ; into this well put two tablespoons cream, three ounces grated Parmesan, or any rich dry cheese, four ounces butter, half a level teaspoon salt, quarter salt-spoon each", "r:0}O CHEESE.", ",|>epper and grated nutmeg, together with as much cayenne as can ;be taken: up on the point of a .very small penknife blade; mix all these ingredients with the tips of. the fingers to a firm paste, knead jt \\v(?ll, roll it out an eighth of an inch thick, and with a sharp knife ;or pastry jagger cut it in straws about eight inches long and quar- ter of an inch wide ; lay the strips carefully on a buttered tin, and ;bake them light straw color in a moderate oven. These cheese 'stra\\ys make a delicious accompaniment to salad, and may be served 'as a co^irse at dinner, either with or without crackers, but always ,with a dressed green salad, or with plain celery. Another mode of iflaking is to rub four tablespoons sifted flour with two of butter, and four of grated cheese, add one egg and season with calt and -ca;^'^hile pepper; rollvery thin, cut in narrow strips three inches in derigth, and mold either into straws or tie in true lover's knots, bake la pale brown in a hot oven and serve hot on napkin, with salads. T'oui' tablespoons bread-crumbs may be used instead of the egg, and |th\"e straws made thus are often sers'ed cold for luncheon or tea. Still another excellent recipe is two cups grated cheese, one-third 'cup butter,; cayenne to taste, three-fourths cup flour, or enough to •roll as pic'Crust, one-half cup warm water; beat all to- gether, roll out and cut in narrow strips four inches long, and bake on writing paper in a hot oven, to a lightbrown. ,0r,.take half pint grated cheese and pint flour, and mix with lard as pie crust, roll and. finish as above. Serve with cZ^esesirZts. .saLad, ..piled on plate, crossing them in pairs and tying with ribbon pf different colors ; or, bake in eight-i", "V ; Cheese 2oith Celery. — One-half cup each grated cheese, gravy and hutter, or poultry fat, two cups celery cut small, and a little pepper and salt. The celery should be in pieces about an inch long ftl>ii.t tQ look like macaroni ; boil ten minutes in Avater, drain, mix in the cheese, butter, pepper and salt, and bake in a pan, basting the top .with spoonfuls of the meat gravy. Serve like a vegetable in tureen or individual dishes.", "C^ Cheese vnih Crackers. — Soak in boiling water round milk Gj-ackers split in two, take them out carefully so as not to break them ; make layers of these slices in a little grat'in dish or a deep bJiking-dish, each slice buttered, spread with a little made mustard, |ind sprinkled with pepper, salt, and plenty of grated cheese. When air is prepared, bake them in a hot oven for ten minutes.", "^' Cheese with Eggs. — Cut hard-boiled eggs into slices and lay in a well-buttered dish that has been sprinkled with bread-crumbs, and place oil eacli slitnj of egg a slice of Gruyere cheese of same shape and size ; place a bit of butter on each, pepper well, sift a few bread- crumbs over and put into good oven for about five minutes. Serve as.hotia&.possible, .", "CHEESE. ' 191", "Cheese icith Jf a earo7ii.— Tut a pint milk and two pints water into a sviucepan with sufficient salt to flavor it ; place it on the fire and when it boils quickly drop in a half pound pipe macaroni. Keep the water boiling until it is quite tender (an hour or more), drain the macaroni and put it into a deep dish Have ready six ounces grated cheese, either Parmesan or Cheshire, sprinkle it amongst the macaroni and some of the butter cut into small pieces, reserving some of the cheese for the top layer. Season with a little pepper, and cover the top layer of cheese with some very fine bread- crumbs. Warm, without oiling, the remamder of one-fourth pound butter, and pour it gently over the bread-crumbs. Place the dish before a bright fire to brown the crumbs ; turn _ it once or twice that it may be equally .saiama.uier", "colored, and serve very \"hot. The top of the macaroni may be browned with a salamander, which is even better than placing it be- fore the fire, as the process is more expeditious ; but it should never be browned in the oven, as the butter would oil and so impart a very disagreeable flavor to the dish. In boiling the macaroni, let it be perfectly tender but firm, no part beginning to melt, and the form entirely preserved. It may be boiled in plain water, Avith a little salt, instead of using milk,' but should then have a small piece of butter mixed with it. Sufficient for six or seven persons.", "Cottage Cheese. — Set a gallon or more of clabbered milk on the stove hetirth, or back of stove, or in the oven after cooking a meal, leaving the door open ; turn it around frequently, and cut the curd into squares with a knife, stirring gently now and then till about as warm as the finger will bear, and the whey shows all around the curd ; pour all into a coarse bag and hang to drain in a cool place for three or four hours, or. overnight if made in the evenmg. When wanted, turn from the bag, chop rather coarse with a knife and dress with salt, pepper and sweet cream. Some mash and rub thoroughly Avith the cream ; others dress with sugar, cream and a little nutmeg, omitting the salt and pepper. Another way is to chop fine, add salt to taste, work in a very little cream or butter, and mold into round balls. If wanted to serve immediately, drain the curd through a col- ander, pressing out all the whey possible with the back of a spoon, dress as above as soon as cold and send to table, cutting the top of cheese in little squares.", "Cream. Cheese. — Take three pints thick cream and put it into a clean wet cloth, adding a teaspoon salt after the creain is sour ; tie it up and hang it in a (-ool place for seven or eight days ; take it from the cloth and jjut it in another and then into a mold with a weight upon it for two or three days longer. Turn it twice a day, when it will be fit to use S(>ur cream may be made into cheese same way. If wanted to rii^en quickly, cover with", "192 CHEESE.", "mint or nettle leaves. Or take a small pan of fresh morning's milk, warm from the cow is best, and mix with the cream skimmed from an equal quantity of the last ni;j;ht's milk. ^Varm it to hlood heat, pour into it a cup of water in -which a piece of rennet the size of two fingers has soaked all night, and jsut it in a vrarm place till the curd has formed. Cut the curd into squares, put it in a thi