MAKING OMELETS

1 if ptoperlv made,

froth. Some clai „ thH . ''"*"' *° ''' ««» -.«-_^

eggs prevents tiiem from ri """"^ "''*'' *■!«

pearanee, and 60 sprinkle wu'Aim/'T.*'^^ omelet a flabby ao

spreading all ovpv o i ^ ""^ "Po» one side nf r. ' .^ ^^^"^^ *^e mn c.- ^ .^^®^ «nd becommcrtoo rl,-, i ^ of pan instead of

^'ightly broU tuun Lf " '""- » « -tber hMo™'.' ","-

228^ ■"" ^Tused instead of mak-

ins into one largt- ^^ foui c«e ^^g^t to ad(i

omelet, either mc ggs Hain,t

a tablen»on cream; ; . „^ "^^r: lell. (-!--=-•

„f meat o»;^^ » f^'', fo,e dishing- In ™='^;' ^^g^tables as it for the

before cooking; oia is alBo a favorite dish.

• in 1 well buttered ««.e.ir...-Bre*jHt^-^^^J^t^^^^^ .put "> I-^PPl^" do chopped pi* -•/" ^n ail.bake abou

:S,or7e and ^ry ,^';^-\ t,' Vneat baldng drs . u^^^~^ ,„,i chicken, game orveal g a > , ,xed ?•> >'l ^,„i„s to hiss and

?om "eU'I.nd rtu ^«th t^a tc ^1^^^ ^^ "^',f hev lo° not crowd one

S baking d,Bh O, t ke l^^ ^^.^ ^ ^rejul on a ^,,^, „„ ,„

sa n^'p^Vl*'- '"*'':,':Vpk closely in a i^^^Jf; ii'.eatr ligl>t. halt fn whole form agai." ana P ^^^^^^ „.ith onf, fe „,e eggs and

delicious dish, thop

bread-crumbs and a h\rA. '. ' — —_

slice thin-sS'o'ned't 'i^'';?;^""'^ ^^'■'^ff "e*„IwK a°df '"!'

«ame time, insuring u,iiW,[f"^.o^'ed at the \ /

JUenapartare to be cooIpTi^ "' cooking. *^

rest tbey can be imf L T . ^'^"^^^ ^^an the

Jess, afterwards and . '*' ''^"^ ^hose cooked ^ool the shells the st'ndTri'^g^^h^r- To' dipped for an instanTin ? ! /^' ^^^s can be stands are made in sever'] . T^'"' ^^ese four t. twelve eggs Tklt t^!!' ^1^.^-? ^-m

four to twelve e's "'rt"^^ '^'"'^ holding fro^ ^^^^^ boiling effffs not £ f here is an objection f^+i ''T^^^^'^n}^ "tes'rSp'fcookin^ '^.^^^ ""derstood."^ The *hf ' ""'f^'^'y '^'^7 of the volkLs lef? nn?' '? *S"ghened and becompl f':i ""^^^ *hree min-

evenly to the c"ntr a,fd t?^ '^ ^^^°^ '^omTe^s sl'ni?!'' "^^ >-* eggs into a dish w ' ^ *^^® result is he^f v^.fi should be cooked ingboilinl water ^;i"^^^^^ (at"' ^^^ bj pitting the

eggs slowly to a i^nt n^ ""'""^^s- The heat of t}. J *h^eeeggs; if than the whIZ %1^^^^-hke consistencv anH t! ^^^^^^'^ter cooks the n^ethod o7col^k J^^^^f f ^^us cookeS^I very fcj^- ^.^^^ harder «aJIy come to a boil .? ^u^ ^^:'^ ^ggs on in cok If "^^ ^"other are immediafpfv f ' '"'^'''^^ ^^^^ be in abont ?. ^^'^.terandletit grad-

^^Hsh enfolded hi rS'^'^^'^^^ «f^"«tard' Served ^^^^^''^"d yolk^ PJaterorifwpIlV T''^^^^ napkin pHcinr " ^^^ '^tand, or in

«n each. Drore4 a ;Tn P°?"?^^ ^°^"d the d nn n ""'' ^^* ^^^^^^

n^ore easilv. If [nt'pnLS^/"'^"* "ito cold water' Tjfll^ ^ spoonfuI

some time for tU vol ^^ \' '^^""^ ^eave thlm in f^. *^?T ^^^^ «hell

ior ine yolks to harden. "^ ^he cold water for

230 " , , -1, slices season

dov'ghiiuts. ^^.^^^,^1'ead triangles of ^^"^iSed egg on these ; nr over ail a *^>-ih j

"?•«■;««' edmrtmeg and b««/^„<S *o^e delicious, a little grates prpam and it is inui.ii

toast into warmed cream ^^^ ^^^^.^'f ';Cs

;i T7.n<^ —Break four eggs mto a do ^^^^ ^^ ^ ,iine

two table|poonB ^^^^^^^^^^ ^Taf tt n^t^^^

water and stir tui out ^^^ ^3 tne in .^ ^^^^t the

lucepan, hold ove;- ge. t.^« .^^^^ ^^^ i ^"^eep ^tiring the eggs

C7/.rrie^ ^^•'i'f Ahlesnoon curry pof^^^^^f "lid a cup cream

hot. Or mix ^^^^ ^^^^f^' e-half pints, and ruo n, •^^^..er gently

it, «Wte '"PJ^t-; ap? " Cut each e?S^ »„;»«, ,nd when -^

heated throw into it «; fj^e ,,,ilk, cream, ^^f^l^^. ,i,^mer about

■ _____^ EGGS.

*he eggs currieT^^^TthT^ir^ ' "~~ ?!^

twisting up Se 0 me^^ S^^/f ''T^ -^ Sh "Se^'f^.f'P '"^^ the eggs in it t.,-,+ -V ^ ^'^^^ a sheet of ^;i^ j .^5^ ^ kittle tray bv about^&lTh *'eP^3\^ "P™ V^/''^" °«' a ete'"S paper, pfaoi oil and chetnef sn>tf ^1 ''°'- Serve with pS "" "."^ shake it

forcemeat £'aas-~T^r.^i • vvnea over.

"^er savo?y or s tet ,n h' *'"^ '^^^P««"s mixed 'ntS "' ^^^^"^ ^ith ^^ght. Take shelL of f"^ '"- chopped fine and n^^^' ''"^^"' ^um- P?\ce of the whi^e off .P f ^''^^efLlIv d^'ide In h^r^'^^gb^'-^ten ^^«hed, and coat thVn/ tv''?^ ""^^ t^'-^t'they n^v ,t ""^fi' ''^"^ ^^^t a grate of very hot ovS to hf^'^ ''''^ '^' fo^rce^ ^^' ^^^^7 when .P9ur a cup of hot n-rV '^^'^"' ^"'^ ^erve niled nh,*^^* «" "Pper jmee has been snuee ed !"T^' ""'''' «^e^« ''n o whlf '' ?-^ ?°* ^^^^h. forcemeat nnt in f^ •' ^"^ ^"erve. Or Ip«v1 ^^^^ ^ ^^ttie lemon

in cracker cruST^.^l^'f ^'- ''I' ^^^o^^e shells roll- u f \vy made in m /of L^X '^ ^"^^^^^ "ntfl brown P^'^*'^ '^S, then dish for dinner.^ ^ ^"*^^^' ^^umbs and cream' ^^"' '''^"^ ^^^^m a Fricasseed E ^'^ ^^^^ellent side

?nd serve hot. Or nnf tl \ ^^''^ "^"^utes

232 " "^^ . ., ^ ran<^e, but do

— T^hot upon the side of t^^^ ^^^^^^'ould lie

and let this |^eco-e — g^^^^^^ ^^^f ii^^e^eadj upon a pla^

not let itactuallyboii ^^^ tes. m^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ evenly

thus in the gravy tor a^ ^^e^^' :, w

Ter small slices of mce;> ^^^ ^^^^^ ^..^e ho .

.pon this, pour ^^ ^J ^^^^^ ,^^^ ,,e eggs one ^v one^-^^-

Fried £:^.^-^.r^v them m^til the white ^« f ^'^^^^ o' on the ham >.nt fat and dip it over them ui ^^ ^^^^.e^ Thp Med in other fat

\o^eimnnies^.,^ l^kecL J^ey ^^^/.^ they ^f L^/^S catsup or a

^f chopped onions a^;^ ^. ^g^^,

a little ^•a^^.^.f \u The'^fried egg seasoned with ^^^ • u jg desired y.w^u,^^-- , •

each egg P\\\^ P^fernate lavers ; luix some ^ J\^^^,_

fire until quite thicu, „„,„te volks

in Switzerland- .1,»11, of a dozen eggs- sepa™ <j

eggs should ha^e been

EGGS. 233

Onion Eggs. — Boil twelve eggs hard and slice ten, whites and yolks together ; fry six sliced onions in butter, drain, lay on a dish, and put the sliced eggs over them ; cover and keep hot while this sauce is made : Grate yolks of the two remaining eggs and mix with little cream, grated nutmeg and pepper, boil up once and pour over eggs and onions. Serve very hot. A nice dish for those who like onions.

Pickled Eggs. — Pint strong vinegar, half pint cold water, tea- spoon each cinnamon, allspice and mace ; boil eggs till very hard, and take off the shell ; put spices, tied in a white muslin bag, in cold water, boil, and if water wastes away add enough so as to leave a half pint when done ; add vinegar, and pour over eggs, put in as many eggs as mixture will cover, and when they are used, the same will do for another lot. If liked, ginger and cloves may be used instead of the cinnamon and mace, and some add mustard. Or after boiling (hard) and removing shell, place in jar of beet pickles and the Avhite will become red ; cut in two in serving. Or, for sixteen eggs, take one quart vinegar, one-half ounce each black pepper, Jamaica pep- per and ginger ; boil eggs twelve minutes, dip in cold water and take off shell ; put vinegar with pepper and ginger into a saucepan and simmer ten minutes ; place eggs in a jar, pour over the seasoned vinegar boiling hot, and when cold cover closely to exclude the air ; ready for use in a month.

Plovers'' Eggs. — Boil from ten to fifteen minutes, and they are good either hot or cold. Serve in napkin. Esteemed a great deli- cacy.

Poached Eggs. — Break the eggs into the egg poacher or drop one at a time in salted water, to which a small lump of butter may be added, or a little lemon juice, or vinegar, using a teaspoon to a pint water ; some say drop in when simmering, others when boiling, not letting it boil again after putting in the eggs ; others have water boiling, salt, then place it where it will stop boiling, drop in eggs, and let simmer gently till done. It is even said they will be more tender if put on in cold water and left until the water comes to a boil. Always take great care in keeping the yolk whole. Use an egg poacher if possible. Break the egg carefully into the little cups and place them on the stand. Dip the stand into well-salted water, which has been brought to simmering point. When done each cup in shape of a shell is taken off the stand and carefully tipped over a piece of buttered toast, leaving the egg in the pretty form of the cup. If one has not a poacher, muffin rings may be placed in the water, or the cup in which the egg is broken may be turned over it, after it is dropped in the water ; and some cook the eggs in cups set in

the hot ..ater ; ^^^^ -* ^a. V-e yojk ^

made, stirring t'^/f v, done as to fix it- .houldonlyhejustsojuch ^^.^^. .^

self firmly m tl". «"^« „ t^, egg is q^^te

yolk is allowed *» ^^^ ^ whitened or

Spoiled ; if the yolks are ^^^^.^^^ ^,^^ ^^ ,„oon' as"the fat

filmed over, cover tie pan ^^^^^^ ^^^ tl^^nj -;j J,;, rskimnier, ^^■hen are poached or dip Uie Take tip ^v' * a perto a^^e ^^^^^ ^^^

tf?stSe|^oj^-rin^^

flatter, lay an e^g on eacnq^ ^^ ^^^^^^'f over broiled ham or ind if lilted, a f^'^y^^^^^^ dishes alone ^^ ^\f Serve XN'ith

nicely and serve -^^^^'^^^, , ^it oflf t^;;^.^^\^f ,^ ^f fhem, seasoiied boiled spmach. ^/^{^J^-^i^a ; or pour hot cieani o^ e ^.^^^ ^^^,^,^^g

Worcester sance it clcsut , i ^^^^ p^^eh eg^s i geason-

wi?h butter, l-PP^f^^J-Vuh some o the ^.dk, ^^^^^.^s of them n sauce disht^ ^^^ /^^"ATeen cut but not quite

ing ^Yith pepper ^ncl sm ^^^^^^^ ^ g ^'"^Uies thus made, and

bread from Avhich ^n inne ^^^^ ^'^''\^'^l-u a verv hand-

through, trim the PO^^^;.^,f ^?avy or chicken ^^^^.^'.^rf around pour over them a cup ^^ ot^ g| ^^^^ serving poacdied e ?ome dish is n.ade byt^^^ ^^^^^^.^^le lemon 3mceo^er. .^ o ^^.^ ^^^^^ slices of Med beets, sqiu^ez ^^^^^^ 7^^U S^^^^^^ first in the

Eqgs loith ^^^^^^^^'^i*"^"' and pepper and salt, p^^^^^^^ carefully

KSredt- a We Uitte. and sa ^^^^ ^

^«,.«/ E.^^-f^^ Wks into .-ddle of dish -nh eggsf cut ^;}tcni 1 gSf sift ^T ^rdS"" rt' p'on 'sa\ad oil

:.^.»afiri:">f-t^^^ «« — ''"''

and a little red pepper, p

serve. . , :^\\. or meat broth

,zr . Moi'^ten bread-crumbs ^^lm^^^^^ ScallopeclE^f;--^!^^^^^^ . place a layer of tl ^^ ^ ^^ ^ • ^.^. ^.awn- and season ^vith salt ^^5 P^J^f,^^, and dip each ^bce ^ a u ^ .^^

^^^ ' ^^-^ ^t^l^^efet^ egg V^-^- ;^^i l^m, veal or butter sauce « ^^^^^ .;\,,bg, then a ^bght la> ^r ot ^.gad-crumbs ,

of them upon the cium ' ^ • ^^^^^.g ,vith dr> . biue chicken, then bread, etc.,

EGGS. 235

bake until well heated ; or, put upon the layer of bread-crumbs a layer of minced ham, seasoned with onion and parsley ; set in oven, closely covered, until smoking hot. Have four eggs stiffly beaten, season with pepper and salt, add two tablespoons cream or one of melted butter, and pour this evenly upon the layer of ham. Put the dish back into the oven uncovered and bake until the egg is set. Individual Scallops are made of lightly minced hard-boiled eggs, whites and yolks together, or yolks only. Butter scallop shells, or little tins made to resemble them in ^^^^ shape, strew in a portion of the egg, then sprinkle scaiior some seasoned grated toast over the egg, and so on al- ternately until shells are filled ; sprinkle a little Chili vinegar on top, lay a piece of butter upon each, and place them in oven until sufficiently done. Grated Parmesan cheese, essence of shrimps or anchovies, chetney sauce, catsup, or truffles, may be added to give them the flavor liked,

Scramlled Eggs. — Warm sweet milk in a deep earthen pie plate, allowing two tablespoons to each egg (or less, with a large number of eggs), add a bit of butter size of walnut, or omit the but- ter and use cream in above proportion or only half as much, and a little salt and pepper. When nearly to boiling point drop in the eggs, broken one at a time in a saucer ; with a spoon or thin-bladed knife gently cut the eggs, and scrape the mixture up from the bot- tom of the plate as it cooks. If it begins to cook dry and fast at the bottom, move the dish back instantly, shifting it over the heat as needed, or even raising it, if cooking too fast, for success depends wholly on cooking gently and evenly, proportions being of second- ary importance. Take from stove before it has quite all thickened, and continue turning it up from bottom of dish a moment longer. If served in another dish (it keeps warmer served in same) have it well heated. The mixture should be in large flakes of mingled white and yellow, and as delicate as baked custard. Or for plain scrambled eggs omit the milk ; some beat eggs before scrambling, just enough to mix whites and yolks, and minced ham is sometimes added. Scrambled upon a plate that has been heated very, very hot and rubbed with a bit of butter, they are relished by those who like eggs but little cooked. Serve scrambled eggs hot over slices of moist buttered toast, or fried bread spread with anchovy paste, if liked, and the dish is called Mumbled Eggs. Or beat up the eggs with pepper, salt and a little chopped thyme ; rub the sauce-pan or bak- ing dish with onions before putting in the eggs, cook as above and send to table as Savory Eggs. A great variety of di

^!!_— Z^^xeer. peas.beets.musli-

onions, artichokes, shallot. aspa-g.^^toj>.

orange, Citron, or lemon p ,.. ai«hes each large enough

^ jHtle salt and !«1 f ^ °4"j„ ,„,,; person, ^'=", f''^ ° t e^d-crumbs the ^vhites ; serve ?'"'-'''''",,"„ „ay be nw>»klcJ « it" f'' j ^wo pretty plates I ^^M"^^ uS^nder before ^^'^^X given by Snd browned ^vlth no ^^j^ disl>. '^"<l,'';'2v in the dishes be-

eegs are oft^.f^B,*! chopped bam and pa'f '«/ V ,,,is purpose, sprinkling a httlefinelj cho 1^^^^^,, «a"<:"V'' ' Uier Some prefer 'r nlirc'lWle'sc l^^ied shells are much prett.er. M t ^gg. before baking. ^.^^^^^ ^^

strips or shreds ; make a pi ^^^,,_t,,en part of *'« j;^„t this and of liread ; pnt ^Vu^f,: u " hrongh a ^ieve over all . y^F ,,„„t three

an hour or more renders m ^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^

«„.V.^..;.-Boilone^^^^^^^^^^^

them ^^•ith a PJ^^^. f,,^^'fof one teaspoon ^^^^^^^^X'^^^ooA sugar

dish garmshed ^'^^l^X.h^^y^^ -«WfTI»^!fcw-^

^?l!Ss:VoS-en round

edr If ^vanted for picnics

^Nn tissue paper to pre- wrap m tissue p i^ ^.^^^ ^^^e __^=_-

S'Sb ^:K rn" the^^:::.t=b^o.n before .rvrn.

EGGS. 237

Another nice dish is Creamed Eggs, made as follows : Prepare eggs as above and mash the yolks well with a little butter, onion juice and salt, fill the halved whites with this, rounding up, and place in a baking dish ; make a rich cream gravy of milk, cream and butter, seasoned with white pepper, salt and a small pinch sugar, and pour into the dish, leaving a narrow rim of the whites and the yolks of eggs showing above ; sprinkle grated cheese on the gravy, and put in the oven to brown. Serve in baking dish. Delicious.

Eggs a la Maitre (P Hotel. — Cut five hard-boiled eggs in quar- ters, lengthwise, and place in dish ; pour over them a hot gravy made of cream and milk with a little butter, a seasoning of white

Eepper and salt, a small pinch sugar, and a thickening of flour, erve hot. A tablespoon chopped parsley and juice of half a lemon may be added to gravy if liked. Very nice.

Egg Balls. — Pound the yolks of eight hard-boiled eggs in a mortar and moisten with beaten yolks of three raw eggs, little salt, pepper, powdered mace or nutmeg. Make into round balls, and put through soup about two minutes before serving, or poach them and serve on buttered toast or with any sauce preferred. Some add a little flour to the paste before making into balls.

Egg Charlotte. — Cut thin slices of stale bread divested of crust, dip into warmed butter, and line a small mold ; take enough hard- boiled yolks of eggs for the mold ; chop and add to them half their quantity of bread-crumbs soaked in cream, season with pepper, add a couple of shred shallots and place these ingredients in the mold; beat up a raw egg with a tablespoon cream and add ; lay upon the top some thin slices of bread dipped into liquid butter and put it into a tolerably hot oven to get nicely browned ; turn it out into a dish to serve. For a Sioeet Charlotte^ sugar, orange-flower or rose- water, and a few blanched almonds, some shred lemon-peel, etc., should be employed instead of the shallot and savory seasoning.

Egg Fritters. — Cut hard-boiled eggs in two, remove yolks, and mix with them chopped cold chicken, lamb, veal or sardines, a little minced onion or parsley and a few soaked bread-crumbs ; season, and moisten with gravy or the uncooked yolk of an egg or cream, fill in the cavities level, put the two halves together, roll in beaten egg and bread-crumbs, put in wire egg-basket, and dip in boiling lard ; when slightly brown, serve with celery, tomato sauce. or make a sauce from lemon juice, sardines, parsley, and sliced onion, stewed in vegetable broth, and a good spoonful cream ; let all cook together and when well reduced pour over the dished eggs and serve hot ; or for six eggs make a stuffing of the yolks, two tea- spoons butter, one of cream, two or three drops onion juice and salt and pepper to taste. Fill eggs and fry as above.

Egg Gems. — Mix together any kind of cold meat (chopped fine), with an equal quantity of bread-crumbs; add pepper, salt, a bit of butter and a little milk ; fill buttered gem-pans with the mix- ture, then carefully break an egg on the top of each ; season with pepper and salt, and sprinkle some very fine cracker crumbs on top ; bake eight minutes ; a little grated cheese may be added to the cracker, if desired.

Egg Mayonnaise. — Beat four eggs well with a tablespoon vin- egar, some pepper and salt, and by degrees add oil enough to give it the proper consistency, so that it forms a smooth cream. Slice yolks of hard-boiled eggs, mince the whites, pour the mayonnaise sauce over the yolks, which arrange in a dish, and place the whites in tufts round the margin, together with branches of chervil, tarra- gon, watercress, endive, lettuce, etc., or sliced pickled cucumbers.

Egg Puree. — Mash yolks of six hard-boiled eggs together with one ounce butter, two tablespoons gravy or milk, and seasoning to taste ; place in buttered dish, stick small pieces boned anchovy on top, and pour over it the beaten yolk of a raw egg ; bake until quite hot, and serve immediately.

E/g Sandiniches. — Cut hard-boiled eggs into moderately thin slices, and lay them between slices of bread and butter cut as thin as possible ; season with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. For picnic par- ties, or when one is travelling, these sandwiches are far preferable to hard-boiled eggs au yiaturel.

Egg Soup. — Beat yolks of four eggs with a teaspoon butter ; season well to taste, and, while stirring, pour in a )iint and a half boiling-hot stock ; strain into a saucepan, put over the fire, keep stirring until it is very nearly boiling, and send to table in a small tureen. For a maigre soup, water takes the place of the stock, flavoring with either essence of anchovy or shrimp. Or take a quart good, clear, cold soup ; beat yolks of twelve eggs and whites of four, strain into the soup and mix well together ; put into a tureen, well buttered, and let it stand over a pot of boiling water, or put it into a gentle oven until properly set. Strew over it a few chopped pickled peppers (red or green), and serve quite hot. This makes a thick soup.

Eggs with Cucumbers. — Pare some cucumbers and cut into pieces the size of dice. Put in a saucepan with a slice of ham, an onion stuck witli cloves, and a few spoons good gravy : simmer slowly, shaking occasionally until done. Take out the nam and onion ; stir in yolks of two eggs beaten in a cup cream ; put into a dish, lay half a dozen poached eggs on top, ana sc^ueeze over some lemon juice.

EGGS. 239

Egg Terrace. — Boil new-laid eggs ten minutes, shell, cut in two. and take a small slice off the ends, so they will stand. Take out

yolks and beat in a mortar, after hav- ing passed them through a hair sieve, together with an equal quantity of but- ter, a little salt, pepper, nutmeg, two raw eggs, and a large tablespoon chop- Egg Terrace. pcdparslcy. Mlx vcry thoroughly , aud

put in a dish. Fill the eggs with this mixture. Make some good highly flavored forcemeat (see Meats), and smooth a layer of it on a plate, place the filled eggs round it, put a second layer of the force- meat in the centre, and arrange the other eggs upon it ; ba'Ste gently with butter, and set for a few minutes in the oven to heat through and color the eggs. Instead of forcemeat, the stuffing may be used for the layers. Serve with tomato sauce. This dish may be served as an entree, or for breakfast, luncheon or supper.

Eggs with Cheese. — Cut hard-boiled eggs into slices ; lay them in a buttered dish that has been sprinkled over with bread-crumbs ; upon each piece of egg lay a slice of Gruyere cheese corresponding in size ; place a good bit of butter upon each ; pepper Avell, sift a few bread-crumbs over, and put in oven for about five minutes. Serve hot.

Eggs with Mushroo?ns. — Slice, fry, and drain twelve button mushrooms and two onions ; boil six eggs hard, and slice them, whites and yolks separately, add a tablespoon butter and seasoning of pepper and salt, and simmer the whole in a half pint good gravy. Put in the sliced yolks last, and let them remain a minute only. Serve very hot, and garnish with thin rings of some of the white of the eggs. Or cut two mushrooms into dice and fry for one minute in a tablespoon butter ; beat six eggs, a little salt, pepper and a half cup milk or cream together and put in sauce-pan ; add the mush- rooms and three tablespoons butter and stir until it begins to thick- en ; take from fire and beat rapidly until quite thick and creamy. Pour over slices of hot toast, garnish with points of toast and serve immediately.

Eggs loith Peas. — Put a pint of fresh, tender green peas into a covered vegetable dish ; add four tablespoons each olive oil and water, season with pepper, salt and nutmeg, cover closely and place the dish over boiling water until the peas are done ; then make indentations on their surface with a spoon and into each of these break an egg ; beat an egg and pour upon the top ; and Avhen well set, serve it in the dish in which it was dressed. Or boil in salt water, half pint tender green peas; drain, and when cold, mix with the yolks of eight eggs, and whites of four, strained and seasoned. Heat some butter in a frying-pan and put in eggs and peas. Keep

240 EGG3.

stirring with a spoon till eggs are set ; turn into a dish, and serve with mint sauce. Any cold peas can be used.

Efjgs vnth Sj/rup. — Make a syrup with a little more than a half pint water and two tablespoons sugar, boiling with it some thickly-sliced lemon peel; strain through a sieve and when cold add to it yolks of eight eggs and whites of two ; mix well and flavor with orange flower water; pour into deep dish and either put it in oven or place over boiling water until Arm.

Eggs with Tomatoes. — Peel a dozen tomatoes, medium size, cut up in a saucepan with a little butter, pepper and salt ; when sufficiently boiled, beat five or six eggs, and just before serving turn them into the sauce-pan with the tomatoes, and stir one way for two minutes, or until they are well done.

Eggs 2oit/i Vinegar. — Heat some butter in a frying-pan until of a good dark-brown color ; break six or eight eggs into a dish ; season any flavor desired, and slide gently into frying-pan. When done, turn carefully into a dish; put a good tablespoon strong vinegar into the frying-pan, bring it quickly to a boil, pour upon the eggs, and serve hot as possible.

Hen's Nest. — Boil six or eight eggs hard and cut whites from yolks in long thin strips, or shavings, set aside to warm in very gentle oven, buttering them now and then Avhile preparing the rest- Pound a cuj) minced meat or fish very fine in a mortar, mixing in gradually the yolks of eggs, a ^ teaspoon parsley and pepper and salt to taste. Hen 3 Nest. Whcu all arc reduced to a smooth paste, mold

with the hands into small, egg-shaped balls. Place in the center of a dish, arrange the shred eggs around them, in imitation of a nest, and send to table with small rounds of fried bread. A cup hot drawn butter sauce poured round the nest is an appetizing addition.

Ox-Eges. — Take slices, an inch thick, from good light bread or roll, and cut into circles withapaste-cutter three inches in diameter ; with a smaller cutter oneandone-half inches in diameter cut out the middle of each circle or cake, leaving the ring intact. Fry the rings in butter, a bright yellow color ; Initter a dish well, lay tbe rings in, and pour over them enough sour cream to moisten well, and put, verv carefully, a raw egg into each ring. Dredge with a little salt, and put a very little sweet cream on top of each egg. Set in oven, and if pretty hot cover lightly with paper. When set, the volks being soft, they are ready to serve. Send to table garnishe<f with parsley or water-cresses.

Temperance Egg-Xog. — Beat well the yolks of two fresh eggs, add two tablespoons each powdered loaf sugar, and orange flower

OMELETS.* 241

water. Stir quickly, and add a cup boiling water. Drink as hot as possible.

Bread Omelet. — Boil one cup milk or cream and pour over one cup bread crumbs and let stand a few minutes, pressing through a sieve if wished. Beat lightly the y(>lks of six eggs in a bowl, add milk and bread, season with salt and pepper, add well-frothed whites and pour into hot pan prepared with a tablespoon butter ; finish as in Plain Omelette. Some add a little grated nutmeg and also cut in squares, turn, fry to a delicate brown, and serve. Or add one tablespoon flour, one onion chopped fine, half pint chopped parsley, pepper and salt; finish as above and serve as a Freyich Omelette; or omit milk and flour and use only half cup bread crumbs and add three tablespoons soft butter and two of grated cold ham and a Savory Omelette will result. Less eggs may be used in any of the recipes.

Cheese Omelet. — Boil in pint new milk until dissolved a half pound good rich cheese, sliced thin. Stir in four eggs beaten very light. Toast some bread, butter evenly, putting on a little mustard, keep stirring the omelet and add a little salt ; when thickened, which will be in five minutes, if fire is good, pour the omelet over the dished toast and serve very hot.

Corn Omelet. — Beat three eggs lightly, separately if wished extra nice, add third cup milk, three-quarters pint sliced cold boiled corn, three tal^lespoons butter, season and finish as Plain Omelet,

Cream Omelet. — Beat together yolks of three eggs, one and a half tablespoons corn starch and teas)>oon salt. To this add half cup milk and Avell-frothed whites. Have the omelet pan with a close fitting cover, hot^ put in tablespoon butter, when it bubbles pour in omelet, cover and place Avhere it Avill not burn. Cook eight minutes, fold and turn on a hot dish, pour around it a cream sauce and serve at once.

Meat or Fish Omelet. — Take cold meat, ham or tongue, fish, game, or poultry of any kind ; remove all skin, sinew, etc., and either cut in small pieces or pound to a paste in a mortar, Avith seasoning to taste of spices and salt ; then fry in a buttered frying-pan till it begins to brown, and pour the beaten eggs upon it, or beat it up with the eggs, or spread it upon them after they have begun to set in the pan. In any case serve hot, with or without a sauce, but garnished with fried parsley, pickles, or sliced lemon. The right

f)roportion is one tablespoonful of chopped meat to four eggs. A ittle milk, gravy, or water may be added to the eggs while being beaten. Potted meats make admirable omelets in the above manner. For Mixed Onielet equal portions of cold chicken or turkey may bQ

242 OMELETS.

used with ham or tongue, seasoning if liked with a little chopped onion, pepper and sweet herbs. Put in the pan with a ladle and fry in flat cakes.

Milk Omelet. — To lightly beaten yolks of three eggs add three tablespoons milk, or more if wished, and stir in lightly the well beaten whites ; cook as in first recipe, or bake in oven as described in general directions and serve as a Baked Omelet^ adding salt just be- fore placing on dish.

Mushroom Omelet. — Lightly fry some pickled button mush- rooms in either fresh butter or oil. "\Vhen fresh button mushrooms can be obtained, they should be cleaned and dipped into lemon-juice, and afterwards either lightly fried in butter, and the eggs poured over them ; or simply, without being fried, laid upon the eggs when poured into the pan ; add a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, and serve when sufficiently done.

Olive Omelet. — Stone and halve a tablespoon Italian olives ; add them to the yolks of seven and the whites of five eggs, beaten up with the juice of an orange. Heat some olive-oil in a frying-pan, pour in the omelet, and directly it is well set, double it up, and serve it upon a napkin folded in a dish.

Orange Omelet. — Three eggs, teaspoon each orange juice and grated rind of orange ; beat j'^olks and whites separately, then mix them carefully together and put in a buttered, heated frying pan. If liked, strew fresh sugar over it and glaze with salamander. Make Lemon Omelet same way.

Oijster Omelet. — Cook fifteen oysters rare done in little sauce- pan separately, with a tablespoon milk, scrap of butter and thicken- ing to make white sauce of the liquor ; break the four eggs in a bowl, put in a tablespoon milk and beat with the wire egg whisk ; add a pinch of salt. Shake a talilespoon melted lard about in the large omelet frying pan and before it gets very hot ])our in the omelet and let it cook rather slowly. "When nearly done in the center place the oysters with a spoon in the hollow middle and pull over the further eage to cover them in ; slide on to the dish, smooth side up. Gar- nish with parsley and lemon.

Plain Omelet. — Put the yolks of three or four eggs into a bowl and beat lightly ; add one tablespoon butter broken into small pieces; this makes a much lighter omelet and should always be added ; now gently stir in the well frothed whites and a little pepper. Have the hot omelet pan prepared with one tablespoon butter and

OMELETS. 243

as soon as it bubbles, stir the omelet once or twice and pour it in ; lift it with a large two-pronged fork (a carving fork will do), carefully raising the edges with the fork as fast as they cook, and turn them to- ward the center until the omelet lies in the mid- dle of the pan in a light mass, cooked soft or '^'"'"''• hard to suit the taste ; the inside must always be creamy. When the omelet is done to the degree desired, add salt, turn upon a hot dish without touching it with either fork or spoon, and serve at once. Another excellent method is to beat three eggs, without separating the whites and yolks, with a little salt and pepper, and put them in- to a frying pan containing an ounce of butter, browned ; let the omelet stand for a moment, and then turn the edges up gently with a fork, and shake the pan to prevent its burning or sticking at the bottom. Five minutes will fry it a delicate brown, fold over and serve on a very hot dish ; never cook an omelet until it is just want- ed ; the flavor may be very much enhanced by adding minced pars- ley, minced onions or shallot, or grated cheese, allowing a level tablespoon of former, and half the quantity of latter, to the above proportion of eggs. Shrimps or oysters may also be added ; the lat- ter should be scalded in their liquor, and then bearded and cut into small pieces. Be careful not to have omelet greasy, burnt, or too much done, and cook over a gentle fire, that the whole of the sub- stance may be heated without drying up the outside. They are some- times served with gravy ; but this should never he x>our€d over them, but served in a tureen, as the liquid causes the omelet to become heavy and flat, instead of light and

Potato Omelet. — Boil two tablespoons potato flour in three- fourths pint milk for half an hour, with sugar to taste, and flavor if desired. Beat separately the whites and yolks of five eggs, stir through the milk, and bake fifteen minutes in hot oven. Or take two mealy potatoes, mash well with enough cream to pass them through a sieve and add a little white pepper and salt (or sugar, if for a sweet omelet) ; beat six new-laid eggs, put with the potatoes ; butter a frying-pan and heat Avell ; pour in the omelet, ancl as soon as it sets turn over the ends and serve hot. With a sweet omelet, a little cinnamon or grated lemon peel, ginger or nutmeg, may be em- ployed.

PuiF Omelet. — Stir into the yolks of six eggs and whites of three beaten very light, one tablespoon flour mixed with a cup cream.

244 OMELETS.

or milk, and salt and pepper to taste ; melt a tablespoon butter in a pan, pour in the mixture and set the pan into a hot oven ; when it thickens, pour over it the remaining whites of eggs well beaten, re- turn it to the oven and let it bake a delicate brown. Slip oflf on large plate, and eat as soon as ^one.

Sweet Omelet. — (Baked). Mix yolks of four eggs with four heaping teaspoons powdered sugar ; add teaspoon vanilla and care- fully cut into this the well-frothed whites; pour it on a thick metal dish well buttered and ])ake till brown, about ten minutes. Place dish on a hot platter and serve at once. If liked, dust with sugar just before placing in oven, and the chopped rind of half a lemon may be added. This may be baked in an iron frying-pan and slipped carefully upon the hot platter.

Sweet Omelet. — (Fried). Mix with the beaten yolks of seven eggs two teaspoons powdered loaf-sugar, the grated rind of half a lemon, and a little cream ; add the beaten whites, whip up all together and fry quickly so as not to scorch it ; when set, turn in the ends, sift pounded loaf sugar upon it, and glaze with a red-hot salamander or shovel ; or use sugar with any plain omelet recipe instead of pep- per and salt. For a Fruit Omelet enclose in the center any kind of jelly, marmalade or jam — currant or grape jelly is best. To make a Chocolate Omelet, put over the eggs when slightly firm a tablespoon scraped chocolate mixed to a paste with two eggs ; fold as soon as set, sprinkle powdered sugar or cinnamon over and serve.

Vegetable Omelet. — Make a puree by mashing up ready-dressed vegetables together Avith a little milk, cream or grav}^, and some seasoning. The most suitable vegetables are cucumbers, artichokes, onions, sorrel, green peas, tomatoes, lentils, mushrooms, asparagus tops, potatoes, truffles, or turnips. Prepare some eggs by slightly beating and straining them; pour them into a nice hot frying-pan, well-buttered ; spread the puree in the center, and when perfectly hot, fold and serve. Or, cold vegetables may be merely choppea small, then fried in a little butter, and some beaten and seasoned eggs poured over.

Water Omelet. — Break eggs in a bowl, stir rather than beat, and to each three eggs add a teaspoon or so cold water, salt and pepper to taste, (or salt after cooking) and a little scalded and chopped parsley. Put tablespoon butter in a hot omelet pan, pour in eggs, cook as above in first recipe and serve. The water makes the ome- let light and moist.

Waverl]/ Omelet. — Boil one pint and a half milk and pour it over one tablespoon each butter and flour well mixed and cook three or four minutes, stirring all the time. Let cool and then add

EGGS. 245

four eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately, a little salt and pour in a buttered quart baking dish and bake twenty minutes.

To Keep Eggs. — Put a two-inch layer of salt in bottom of stone jar, then a layer of fresh eggs, large end down, then salt, then eggs, and so on till jar is full, with a layer of salt at top ; cover and put in a cool place, but not where they will freeze. This is a simple, easy, and inexpensive way, and has been tested for years. Or, dip the eggs in melted wax, or a weak solution of gum, or in flax-seed oil, or rub over simply with lard, each of which renders the shell impervious to air, and pack away in oats or bran. For one's own use the latter is a good method, keeping the eggs perfectly, but it discolors the shells, and renders them unfit for market. Or, mix together three pounds quick lime, ten ounces salt, one ounce cream tartar and a gallon and a half boiling water and cover closely. This solution may be poured over the eggs the day after preparing. They will keep well but the shells will become very brittle.

There has always existed a great difference of opinion as to which end down eggs should be placed in packing for winter use. A well known poultry breeder gives what seems to be a sound reason for packing them larger end down. He says : "The air-chamber is in the larger end, and if that is placed down the yolk will not break through and touch the shell, and thereby spoil. Another thing, if the air-chamber is down, the egg is not as liable to shrink away. These are two important reasons deducted from experiments, and they materially affect the keeping of eggs."

246 FISH.

As a food, fish ranks just below meat on the one hand and above vegetables on the other. It is easier of digestion but less nutritious than meats, if salmon is excepted, which is extremely hearty food, and should be eaten sparingly by children and those whose diges- tion is not strong. But, though it is not recommended that fish should be the only animal food of which one partakes, its value as a part of the diet is indicated by the larger proportion of phosphorus which it contains, and which renders it especially fitted for the use of those who perform much brain work. There can be no doubt that fish might with advantage enter much more largely into our family diet than it docs at present, as it would not only afford a pleasant variety in fiire, but would also supply certain elements of blood which are not obtained in sufficient quantity from either meat or vegetables. On the score of economy, too, fish should receive more attention from the housekeeper. The Avhite kinds are least nutri- tious; and the oily, such as salmon, eels, herrings, etc., most diffi- cult of digestion. Fish must be fresh, the fresher the better — those being most perfect which g,o straight from their native element into the hands of the cook — and they may be known to be perfectly fresh when the form is rigid and the eyes full and bright. If fish is kept on ice until used it will retain much of its freshness, but if not kept cool it will lose the delicate flavor, which nothing can bring back. The season of the year has a most decided influence upon the qual- ity offish. In general, fish are in the best condition just before they spawn, but as soon as the spawning is over they are unfit for food, being sometimes posi

risH. 247

such importance that it has been made a subject of legislative action, regulating the times during which only certain fish may be caught. When fish are in season, the muscles are firm and they boil white and curdy ; when transparent and bluish, though sufiiciently boiled, it is a sign that they are not in season or not fresh. For further hints on selecting fish see Marketing.

Salmon, mackerel, herring and trout, and all fresh water fish, soon spoil and should be prepared for table as soon as possible after they are caught. Clean them on a dry table, not in a pan of water, using as little water as is compatible with cleanliness. Remove all scales (if hard to scrape off these may be loosened by plunging the fish into boiling water, but it must be taken out instantly or it will break the skin and spoil the fish), and scrape out entrails, every par- ticle of blood, and the white skin that lies along the backbone, being careful not to crush the fish more than is absolutely necessary in cleaning. When a large fish for boiling or baking is not to be stuffed, do not split open but draw it at the gills. Rinse thor- oughly in cold water, using only what is necessary for perfect clean- liness, drain, Avipe dry, and place on ice until ready to cook. If to be cut up before cooking wash while whole, else much of the flavor will be lost. It is a common error to wash fish too much, as by doing so the flavor is also injured. If the fish is to be boiled, a lit- tle salt and vinegar should be put into the water, to give it firmness, after it is cleaned. Fresh cod-fish, whiting and haddock are none the worse for being a little salted and kept a day, but even better ; and if the weather is not very hot, they will be good for two days. To remove the earthy taste from fresh- water fish, sprinkle with salt, and let stand overnight, or at least a few hours, before cooking ; rinse off, wipe dry, and to completely absorb all the moisture, place in a folded napkin a short time. Fresh-water fish should never be soaked in water except when frozen, when they may be placed in ice-

cooking may be used in making salads, croquettes, etc. If a portion of a salmon is not used, parboil and set it aside in the liquor, boil- ing up when wanted. It is said that fish may be preserved by- sprinkling with sugar, which does not harm its flavor, and that sal- mon tlms treated has a more agreeable taste. Those who live re- mote from the sea and cannot get fish hard and fresh should wet it with a beaten egg before mealing or breading to prevent its breaking. All fish which have been packed in ice should b(^ cooked immediately after removal, as they soon grow soft and lose thvir flavor.

To bone and skin a fish, cut down the middle till bone is reached, then cut the fillet or strip out from the side, ^tig'-rrT^^^-^— ^^-^ avoiding the bone ; lay fillet on board, remove Boniag Knife.

from skin by turning the blade of knife between the flesh and skin and keeping it perfectly parallel with the board and thus cutting and separating the skin and flesh. To simply bone a fish, remove back bone by running a thin sharp knife along under it, and with a smaller knife loosen and take out the long bones one at a time.

Fish should always be well cooked, being both unpalatable and unwholesome when underdone, and the mode of cooking con- siderably affects their properties as food. Plain boiling, baking, broiling and roasting appear to be the favorite methods. Nearly all the larger fresh fish are boiled, the medium-sized are baked or broiled and the small are fried. For boiling, a fish weighing from four to seven pounds, should be chosen ; for baking, from four to nine pounds, though the best size is six or seven ; if wanted for broiling select those weighing about three pounds and a half and split in two ; for frying, a pound to a pound and a half weight is best. The very large ones are cut up and sold in pieces of convenient size. The method of cooking which retains most nourishment is broiling, baking is next best, and boiling poorest of all. Steaming is better than boiling. In baking or boiling place a fish as nearly as possible in the same position it occupies in the water. To retain it there, shape like the letter "S," pass a long skewer through the head, body, and tail, or tie a cord around tail, pass it through body, and tie around the head. Or it may be formed in circle with tail in its mouth. Lake Superior trout and white-fish are the best for baking, and white-fish is also nice for broiling. The gudgeon is a cheap fish, rather bony, and is generally fried. The blue-fish is excellent boiled or baked with a stuffing of bread, butter and onions. Green

FISH. 249

or sea-bass are boiled with egg sauce, and garnished with parsley. Salmon are baked or boiled, and smelts are cooked by dropping into boiling fat. The sheep's-head, which requires most cooking of all fish, is always stuffed and baked. The cod is undoubtedly the best fish for all purposes that comes to eastern markets, and are packed in ice and sent over the country, but because so plentiful and cheap and always to be had are not so much appreciatecl as other fish not so easily obtained. While all delicate fish lose flavor soon after they are caught, the cod not only retains but improves in flavor if kept a day or two, with tlie addition of a little salt to give it firmness. The "shoulder" is most highly esteemed. As food for invalids, white-fish, such as the ling, cod, haddock, coal fish and whiting, are the best, while flat fish, as soles, skate, turbot and flounder, are also good. In garnishing fish great nicety is required. The principal garnishes used are slices or quarters of«lemon, fried or raw parsley, fresh fennel, pickles, scraped horse-radish, small pieces of toast, the liver of the fish, lobster coral, tomatoes quartered, sliced cucumber, sliced orange, fried oysters, fried gudgeons or smelts, etc. The latter when served as a garnish for a large fish should be fried in the shape of rings. This is easily done by putting tail of fish in its mouth, and holding it with a wooden tooth-pick. After it is fried, the pin is withdrawn, as the fried fish will hold its shape. Place these rings around the fish, with an additional gar- nish of parsley and lemon slices ; or the rings may be served alone in a circle around the side of a platter, with a tomato or a tartare sauce in the center. If

250 FISH.

than lay it on its side. Always serve fish, if possible, with its appro- priate sauce, which is an almost marvelous improvement to some kinds, reminding one of the old gentleman who used to remark that "the egg sauce was the best of the fish."

Eels must be dressed as soon as possible, or they lose their sweetness^ cut off the head, skin them, cut them open, and scrape them free from every string, rubbing them with salt, or dipping into hot water to remove the slime adhering to them. They are good except in the hottest summer months, the fat ones being best.

In cooking fish, care must be taken not to use the same knives or spoons in the preparation of it and other food, or the latter will be tainted with the fishy flavor, and it is well to have special uten- sils for preparing and cooking fish, and used only for that purpose.

The an-^teur cook should not be affrighted at the number, names and length of recipes given under this (or any other) head, but undertake any of them without fear of failure. The mode of preparing is in most cases really simple, and the directions .'^o plain that success is sure. Instead of serving fish boik^I or fried in the same old way, try some of the newer and more attractive and ap- petizing methods under baking, frying, boiling, etc., as court au hmdllon, which is merely boiling the fish in a vegetable broth fla- vored with certain herbs and .'^piccs. The collared, curried and potted fish will be found very delicious changes, and are easily prepared. Some additions may be needed to the stock of spices and herbs before beginning, but once used they will be considered as indispensable as pepper and salt and be thereafter kept on hand with as little trouble, and at very small expense. The French owe their fame as cooks largely to their skill in combining ingredients, flavors and season- ings, and their artistic methods of serving, producing from bits of cold fish, meat, or vegetables and stale crusts, with the addition of condiments, dishes both handsome and delicious. Go thou and do likewise.

In liuying fish there is opportunity for the exercise of great care and judgment, even more than in buying meats, as freshness is essential to delicacy in fish. Th>; sooner it is cooked after leaving the water the pleasanter the flavor. For particular directions in selecting, consult the chapter on marketing.

The fish to be had in the markets of all the larger cities are enumerated below ; the fresh-water during Spring and Fall, and salt- water through the Winter also.