G-RIDDLE CAKKS

Griddle-cakes should be well beaten when first made, and cakes in which eggs are used are much lighter when the eggs are separated, whipping the yolks to a thick cream, and adding the whites beaten to a stiff froth just before baking. All griddle-cakes are much nicer mixed and kept overnight, to allow the flour to swell, stirring in the whites of eggs and soda or baking powder, when used, just before baking. Cakes are much more easily, quickly and neatly baked if made in a vessel with a spout from which the batter may be poured, and one can be provided for this purpose. Have the griddle clean, and if the cakes stick sprinkle on salt and rub with a coarse cloth before greasing. The neatest way to grease a griddle is with a large piece of ham or pork rind kept for this purpose, and some use a thick slice of turnip. Many prefer griddles made of soap-stone, which need no greasing — grease spoils them — but they need to be very hot. They are more costly and more easily broken than iron, and with care cakes may be baked on an iron griddle without greasing, if it is kept polished, and rubbed well with a cloth after every baking. The artificial stone griddle illustrated is a new article, light and durable,

equally as good as the soap-stone,

doing away with all grease and

smoke and much cheaper. Whether

greased or not, iron griddles, if

ArtiQciai stone Griddle. propcrly carcd for, need washing

but seldom. Immediately after use they should be carefully wiped

and put away out of the dust, never to be used for any other pur-

GRIDDLE CAKES. 377

pose. Do not turn griddle-cakes the second time while baking, as it makes them heavy ; this rule should never be departed from, save in making fruit cakes, when it is necessary to turn them quickly to form a crust to confine the juice of the berries, and again to cook them thoroughly ; serve all cakes the same side up as when taken from griddle. The cake lifter illustrated is almost indispensable in turning cakes smoothly and evenly and the cake utter.

cost of it is small. Buckwheat cakes are highly esteemed for win- ter breakfast, but are very properly never, or rarely, served in sum- mer, as the chief value of buckwheat as a food is its heat produc- ing properties.

In making batter, bread or corn meal cakes, either sour milk or buttermilk may be used with soda; or sweet milk or water with baking powder, as convenient, using same proportion of other in- gredients, and remember that one heaping teaspoon baking powder possesses the same rising properties as one level teaspoon soda, A greater proportion of either of the rising powders is necessary with buckwheat, Graham and corn meal than with flour.

Baiter Cakes. — Make a batter of one quart each flour and sour milk, and let stand overnight. In the morning add three eggs beaten separately, a tablespoon butter, and two level teaspoons soda. Pulverize the soda verv fine before measuring, then thor- oughly mix with the flour. Add whites of eggs just before baking on the griddle. For Corn Cakes use two-thirds corn meal and one- third flour. Sweet milk or water may be used with two heaping teaspoons baking powder thoroughlv mixed with the flour. These may also be made without eggs, and some prefer to sweeten them, using either molasses or sugar to taste. Buttermilk may be used instead of sour milk. For Raised Batter Cakes take three eggs, one teaspoon sugar, one coffee-cup each sweet milk and warm water, four tablespoons potato yeast, flour enough to make a stifl batter ; beat yolks and sugar well, stir in milk, water and yeast, and lastly flour, stir well, and set in warm place to rise ; when light, beat whites to a stiff' froth, and stir into batter with a pinch of salt. Very nice for breakfast if set the night before. For Tomato Cakes, slice large, solid ripe tomatoes, cover with the batter without yeast and fry on a griddle ; season with pepper and salt while frying.

Bread Cakes. — Soak stale bits of bread overnight in sour milk ; in the morning rub through a sieve or colander, and to one quart add yolks of two eggs, one teaspoon each salt and soda, two table-

378 GRIDDLE CAKES.

spoons sugar, and flour enough to make a batter a little thicker than for buckwheat cakes ; add last the well-beaten whites of eggs, and bake. Or for Bread Cfikes loith Corn Meal^ soak bread-crumbs overnight in one quart sour milk, rub as above, and add four well- beaten eggs, two teaspoons soda dissolved in a little water, one table- spoon melted butter, and enough corn meal to make the consistency of ordinary griddle-cakes. It is better to beat yolks and whites separately," stirring the whites in just before baking. Either sweet milk or water may be used, with two heaping teaspoons baking powder, instead of' sour milk and soda. And if wanted to bake im- mediately, pour enough hot water over the bread to moisten it well, then put through a colander and add other ingredients as above, with, if necessary, a little sweet milk, sour milk or buttermilk, as liked, to give the proper consistency. Some add a little shortening of butter or cream. To make Raised Bread Cakes, soak the bread in enough cold milk to make it very soft, almost liquid ; then beat it to a smooth batter over the fire and let it get scalding hot ; cool a little, and to each quart soaked bread stir in one tablespoon yeast, two well-beaten eggs, level teaspoon salt, and enough flour to form a batter that Avill hold a drop let fall from the spoon. Cover it with folded towel and let rise overnight, if the cakes are intended for breakfast, or five hours, if to be used at noon or evening.

Buckwheat Cakes. — Buckwheat flour, when properly ground, is perfectly free from grits. The grain should l:)e run through the smut- ter with a strong blast before grinding, and the greatest care taken tin-ough the whole process. Adulteration with rye or corn cheapens the flour, but injures the quality. The pure buckwheat is best, and is unsurpassed for griddle-cakes. To make batter, warm one pint sweet milk and one pint water (one may be cold and the other boil- ing) ; put half this mixture in a stone crock, add five teacups buck- wheat flour, beat well until smooth, add the rest of the milk and Avater, and Inst a teacup of yeast. Or, the same ingredients and pro- portions may be used except adding two tablespoons molasses or sugar, which makes them Drown nicely, and using one quart water instead one pint each milk and water. Some like also to shorten them with two tablespoons melted lard. Or, another rule, sift one cpiart buckwheat flour and add a cup scalded corn meal, tablespoon sugar and teaspoon salt. Stir in a half cup yeast and mix to a good batter with lukewarm water. Set to rise in a warm Dlace overnight and before baking in the morning, thin if necessary with warm water, and if it is even the least bit sour add a half teaspoon soda, but take out a cup of the batter, before adding the soda, to serve as a rising for the next baking and put away in a cool place. If this is done every morning, fresh j'east will not be necessary for several days ; some who bake cakes every morning use no other yer^st air winter and think them better raised thus. Some never stir buck- wheat cakes after they have risen, but take them out carefully with

GRIDDLE CAKES. 379

a large spoon, placing the spoon when emptied in a saucer, and not back again in the batter. Wheat flour is used b.y manj' instead of corn meal, and it is recommended by some that oats be ground with buckwheat, one-third oats to two-thirds buckwheat.

Some good housekeepers in the country who make salt-rising bread and thus do not keep a supply of yeast constantly on hand may be glad when buckwheat cake time comes, of a recipe for mak- ing Yeast loithout Yeast : Take a tablespoon and a half each New Orleans molasses and warm w^ater, stir in enough flour for a thin batter and set in a warm j)lace. It will soon begin to throw uj^ bub- bles and in a short time ferment. While waiting for this, make ready for it by boiling a teacup of hops in two quarts water twenty minutes ; strain and stir in a pint flour and tablespoon salt, beating until free from lumps. Put over the fire and boil again until of the consistency of good starch ; if too thick, thin vv^ith boiling water. Turn into a bowl, cover, and let stand till lukewarm and stir in the rising of molasses, etc. Set where it will be kept warm, but not hot, until light, when place in a jug, cork tight, and put away in a cool place. The following recipe is considered by some especially nice for buckwheat cakes : Catnip Yeast. — Pare and boil six medium-sized potatoes ; tie in a clean white cloth one handful cat- nip (fresh or dry) and boil with potatoes ; when they are thoroughly cooked take out catnip, mash potatoes with a fork and if not smooth put through a colander or sieve ; add a half teaspoon ginger, hand- ful sugar, teaspoon salt, and water in which potatoes were cooked to make about two quarts, cool to blood-heat, add half pint yeast. Set in a warm place to rise. It will rise rather slowly in making, but will raise cakes, bread, etc., quicker than hop yeast. The advantage of catnip over hops is that more yeast can be used in cold weather, as is always necessary, without danger

Buckwheat Cakes. — To make buckwheat cakes without yeast, mix overnight with warm water, a little salt, and tablespoon molas- ses, one pint buckwheat flour, to the usual consistency of griddle- cakes. When ready to bake for breakfast add two teaspoons bak- ing powder, thinning the batter if necessary, and bake immediately on a hot griddle. Or for Quick Buckwheats, take one pint sour milk or buttermilk, tablespoon soda, tablespoon baking molasses, or a little sugar ; thicken with buckwheat flour to the consistency of batter-cakes. Water may be used, or sweet milk and baking pow- der, but the cakes will not be as tender. Bake on a hot griddle.

Cerealine Cakes. — Sift three-fourths cup flour, teaspoon baking powder and pinch of salt together, add three Avell-beaten eggs, table- spoon sugar and a cup cerealine, and stir in a pint milk. Bake as usual on a griddle, or in a buttered round frying-pan, putting in enough batter each time to make a cake covering half bottom of pan, turn to brown both sides, butter each cake, roll up separately,

380 GRIDDLE CAKES.

sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve. Or take half pound boiled cerealine, three tablespoons sugar, two and one- half cups flour, one and one-half teaspoon baking

powder, three eggs, teaspoon salt and three-fourths

pint milk. Bake on griddle. cereaune cakes.

Clam Cakes. — Sift two heaping teaspoons baking powder with a quart flour and make a batter with one pint milk and one pint liquor from canned clams, adding a tablespoon syrup, little salt, four tablespoons melted butter, and well-beaten yolks of ten eggs. Stir in two two-pound cans of chopped clams and bake as other griddle cakes.

Corn Cakes. — One pint corn meal, one of sour "milk or butler- milk, one egg, one teaspoon soda, one of salt. A tablespoon flour or half tablespoon corn starch may be used in place of the egg ; bake on a griddle. The scalding of corn meal takes away the raw taste and cakes made as follows Avill be much more delicious : One pint corn meal, one tea^^poon salt, small teaspoon soda ; pour on boiling water until a little thinner than mush ; let stand until cool ; add yolks of four eggs, half cup flour, in which is mixed two teaspoons cream tartar, and stir in as much sweet milk or water as will make the batter suitable to bake ; beat the whites well and add just before baking. Or pour three cups boiling milk gradually over one cup corn meal, stirring to avoid lumps ; sift one teaspoon salt, one of baking powder and two tablespoons sugar with one cup flour and add when scalded milk is cool ; then stir in two well-beaten eggs. A tablespoon cream or a little butter may be added, and some scald the milk, pour over meal, stirring in the butter and sugar and let stand overnight, adding other ingredients in the morning. To make Raised Corn Cakes., scald a quart corn meal, cool with cold water so as not to scald the yeast, add two tablespoons yeast, one of flour, and salt to taste. Let stand overnight, and in the morning add two well-beaten eggs.

Farina Cakes. — Scald four tablespoons farina at night with a pint boiling Avater. In the morning thin with one quart milk stirred in slowly to avoid lumjs, and add two Avell-beatcn eggs, one table- spoon melted butter, salt to taste and enough flour to make a good batter. Add a teaspoon soda and two of cream tartar, or two, heap- ing, of baking powder.

Flannel Cakes. — Make hot a pint of sweet milk, and into it put two heaping tablespoons butter, let melt, then add a pint of cold milk, the well-beaten yolks of four eggs — placing the whites in a cold place — a teaspoon salt, four tablespoons potato yeast, and sufficient flour to make a stiff batter; set in a warm place to rise, let stand three hours or overnight ; before baking add the beaten whites ; fry like any other griddle-cakes. Be sure to make batter just stiff enough^

GRIDDLE CAKES. S81

for flour must not be added in the morning unless it is allowed to rise again. Or take one cup corn meal, two of flour, three of boil- ing milk, one-fourth yeast cake dissolved in four tablespoons cold water, or one-fourth cup liquid yeast, one teaspoon salt, one table- spoon sugar, two of butter. Heat the milk to boiling and pour it over the meal and butter. When cool, add the other ingredients and let rise overnight and bake on griddle.

French Pancakes. — Beat together till smooth yolks of six eggs and a half pound of flour, melt four tablespoons butter and add to batter, with one of sugar and a half pint milk, and beat until smooth. A little grated lemon peel may be added if wished. Put a large tablespoon at a time into small hot frying-pan about five inches in diameter, slightly greased, spread batter evenly over surface of pan by tipping it about, frv to light brown on one side — about four min- utes— then sprinkle sugar over or spread with jelly, jam or preserves, roll up in pan, take out carefully Avithout breaking and set where it will keep hot while others are fried, sending to table as hot and as quickly as possible, dusting with sugar just before serving. By make- ing cakes thin they will not need turning, which is difficult to clo when cakes are large. For Plain French Cakes ^ make as much batter as will be required, allowing one egg and a quarter saltspoon salt to four heaping tablespoons flour and a half pint milk. Beat yolks of eggs, add other ingredients, beating thoroughly, and stir in well- whipped whites, bake and roll as above.

Fruit Cakes. — Sift together one and one-half pints flour, one teaspoon salt, two of baking powder, one tablespoon brown sugar ; add two well-beaten eggs, a pint of milk and a half pint blueberries, blackberries or raspberries. Have the griddle hot enough to form a crust as soon as the batter touches it, turn quickly to form a crust on the other side to confine the juices of the berries ; turn again on each side to bake thoroughly.

Gluten Cakes. — One pint sour milk, level teaspoon soda; thicken with gluten or entire wheat flour as for batter cakes ; one or two eggs may be added, and sweet milk and baking powder may be used in place of sour milk and soda. These are as nice as buck- wheat cakes and more wholesome.

Graham Cakes. — One cup each sour cream and tepid water, two eggs, the best Graham flour (unsifted) to make a thin batten, and scant level teaspoon soda dissolved in the tepid water. The water must not be too hot, or the cakes will be greasy and soggy. Bake slowly on not too hot a griddle. Or take one quart sifted Graham flour, teaspoon baking powder, three eggs, and milk or Av;;ter enough to make thin batter. Or, if a mixture is preferred, take one pint sifted Graham flour, half pint each corn meal and flour, or half Graham and half corn meal, heaping teaspoon sugar, half teaspoon

382 GRIDDLE CAKES.

salt, one egg, pint buttermilk, teaspoon soda. Another excellent recipe requires two cups Graham Hour, one of flour, two and a half of milk, one tablespoon sugar, teaspoon each salt and cream tartar, half teaspoon soda, two eggs. Boil half the milk, pour it on the Graham and stir until smooth ; add the cold milk, and set away to cool ; mix the other ingredients with the flour and rub through a sieve, and add with the eggs, well beaten, to the Graham and milk. Rye Cakes made the same. What is known as "Number One" Graham flour does not need to be sifted.

Green Corn Calces. — To one quart grated corn (raw) add yolks of three eggs, cup sweet cream (milk maybe used, adding table- spoon butter), one cup flour, the well-b(?aten whites, teaspoon bak- ing powder ; bake on griddle and serve hot. Some use a handful fresh bread-crumbs and not so much flour.

ITominy Cakes. — Beat a large tablespoon butter into two cups soft boiled hominy, add a tablespoon white sugar, little salt and three well-beaten eggs, beating all well together; then stir in a quart milk and a cup flour with two heaping teaspoons bakirig powder. Or take half hominy and half flour, and water may be used instead of milk. Rice Cakes made same. Bake very quickly.

Oat Meal Cakes. — One cup each cooked oatmeal and flour, one egg, one teaspoon each sugar and baking powder and half teaspoon salt, mixed with enough cold water to make a nice batter. Beat all well together and bake on griddle.

Potato Cakes — Six boiled potatoes cooled and mashed through a colander (cold potatoes maybe used), two eggs, three tablespoons flour, sweet milk to make rather stiff" batter, salt, and a little pepper if liked. Fry on griddle. Nice with butter, syrup or jam. For Grated Potato Cakes., after peeling and washing potatoes, wipe dry, grate <|uickly and to each cup grated potato allow one egg, and heaping tablespoon flour. Beat potato and egg thoroughly five minutes, add flour and teaspoon salt. Have tablespoon drippings or lard in frying-pan, put in batter to cover l>ottom half inch thick, and there must be enough fat to show around the edge of cake. When brown turn and brown the other side. Place in oven on plate and bake a second one, adding more fat to pan if necessary, then a third, etc., till all are baked. Place in layers and serve at table cut as jelly cake, only larger slices. Make in the proportion of one grated po- tato to each person. These are nice for breakfast or tea and with potato slaw, cake or fruit and a cup tea, coffee or chocolate, one has almost a ''company tea."

Rye Cakes. — Warm a quart new milk, beat two eggs very light, and add gradually with sufficient rye meal to make a moderate bat- ter, putting in the meal a handful at a time ; add a saltspoon salt

GRIDDLE CAKES. 383

and large tablespoon any fresh yeast. Beat very light and put in a warm place to rise. Bake on hot griddle and eat with butter, molasses, or honey. Corn Cakes may be made after this recipe, or use rye and corn in equal proportions.

Rice Cakes. — Boil half a cup rice ; when cold mix one quart sweet milk, the yolks of four eggs, and flour sufficient to make a stiff batter ; beat the whites to a froth, stir in one teaspoon soda, and two of cream tartar ; add a lit- tle salt, and lastly the whites of eggs ; bake on a griddle. A nice Avay to serve is to spread them Kioe cakea.

while hot with butter, and almost any kind of preserves or jelly ; roll them up neatly, cut off the ends, sprinkle them with sugar, and serve immediately. Or boil until soft a half pound rice, drain off water, mash well, stir in butter size of an egg, and when cold add six eggs beaten very light, pint flour, and quart lukewarm milk. Beat all well together, and bake on a hot griddle.

Squash Cakes. — One cup cooked and sifted squash, two eggs, one and a half pints milk, little salt, flour to make good batter, and two heaping teaspoons baking powder. Or take one pint flour, scant pint milk, two eggs, teaspoon each salt and cream tartar, half as much soda, four tablespoons sugar, two cups sifted squash. Mix the flour with the other dry ingredients, and rub through a sieve ; add beaten eggs and milk to the squash, and pour on the flour. Beat till smooth and light and bake on griddle. Or take a half pint cold stewed squash, pumpkin or apple, rubbed through a colander ; mix with two well-beaten eggs and half pint milk. Sift together half pint each Graham flour and corn meal, half teaspoon salt, heaping tea- spoon baking powder. Mix all smoothly and thoroughly into a bat- ter and bake quickly on hot griddle.

384 ICES AND ICE-CREAM.

ICES AISTD ICE-CREAM,

Perfectly fresh sweet cream makes the most delicious ice-cream, and what we term double cream, standing twenty-four hours, is best. This sweetened and flavored gives the justly renowned P/^/Zac/eZj^A /a Ice-cream, having a cream-white tint and a full rich flavor. It is made either of cooked or uncooked cream ; the former gives a light snowy texture, greatly increased in quantity but not as fine in quality as if the cream is cooked, by placing in a custard kettle, stir- ring often till water in outer pan boils, then adding sugar, taking off fire, flavoring, letting stand a moment, straining, cooling and freez- ing as directed hereafter. This gives a cream of greater body and richness and prevents any tendency to curdling if cream should ac- cidentally not be perfectly fresh, caused by very hot sultry weather, or a passing thunder-storm. This is made more delicious, adding light- ness to the richness, by reserving a part of cream, whipping it and adding when cream is half frozen, beating it well in with a wooden paddle ; and less flavoring is needed, a quarter less at least, if it is added to the whipped cream, as freezing diminishes the strength of flavoring ; consequently, when added before freezing, the cream must be over-flavored. Freezing also lessens the strength of the sugar, so if the cream preparation is sweetened to taste, one must also over- sweeten. For whipped cream some let single cream stand twelve hours after skimming, and then skim off" the richer portion, thus obtaining the "cream of the cream." It will be so rich that it can all be whipped to a stiff froth without any remainder. This is the true double-cream.

When eggs are added to the cream before freezing, making a custard, it is known as Neapolitan Ice-cream, and as it contains a

ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 385

large proportion of eggs, yields an ice as solid, rich and smooth as the finest butter, and has a pronounced custard flavor, and lemon-yel- low color. It is prepared as follows : Strain and beat yolks of eggs to a smooth cream, add sugar and beat again. Strain and whisk the whites to a froth as stiff as possible, stir briskly into the yolks and sugar, and mix with the cream. Cook in a custard kettle or a pail set within a kettle of boiling water over a brisk fire, stirring con- stantly, until it slightly coats a knife blade dipped into it, and does not run. Be careful not to let it curdle. Take off fire, strain through a wire sieve (or a linen crash towel kept for the purpose and marked "Ice Cream,") into a crock or pan, cover with gauze, and let stand till cool, then freeze. It is well to reserve some of the cream and whip and add as above. These two creams are made of the pure cream ; when made of part new milk and cream it is called Lac- teanola Ice-cream and is made either with or without eggs : With Eggs^ by boiling the new milk, reserving a part of it, in custard ket- tle and adding beaten yolks of eggs mixed with the reserved milk and stirred slowly into the hot milk ; let cook two or three min- utes, add sugar and in few moments take from fire and strain while hot, as above ; cool, add double cream and flavoring, or add only part of the cream. Set custard in a cool jilace and when ready to freeze add well-frothed whites, and when half frozen, the reserved cream, whipped. Or Without Eqgs^ by boiling the milk, as above, and adding a rounded tablespoon flour (if cream to be added is very thick, use less), or a little less of corn-starch or arrowroot, to every quart milk,

386 ICES AND ICE-CREAM.

cold. When eggs are used, strain through a sieve — they beat easier and smoother for it; if yolks and whites are to be beaten separately, strain each before beating.

Fruit Ice-creams^ when of berries, are made in proportion of a quart cream, a quart fruit and a pound sugar, allowing the berries to stand for awhile well sprinkled with part of the sugar, mashing, straining the juice, adding the rest of sugar to it, and stirring till a clear syrup, and then adding to the ice-cold mixture just before commencing to freeze, or beating into it after it is frozen, which is the better way. In the latter case use in preparing the cream or custard, half the sugar to be used in recipe and mix the rest with the fruit juice and stir in when frozen. If the fruiti?, preferred in the cream, cut into dice the firm-fleshed fruits such as the pine-apple, apricot, peach and plum, mix lightly with half the sugar and when it is dissolved mix with frozen cream ; for strawberries and raspberries, mash or chop gently, add sugar and mix with the frozen cream. In addition to this, add whipped cream and sweetened whole berries just as the cream is ready to serve, in the propor- tion of a cup berries and a pint of whipped cream to three pints of the frozen mixture. Canned berries may be used in the same way. Or a pint mashed berries or peaches, cut fine, added to a quart ordinary ice-cream, when frozen makes a delicious Fruit Ice-cream. In either case, with juice or fruit, let stand in freezer till ready to serve, or put in molds and pack as directed hereafter.

In flavoring with vanilla the vanilla bean may be used by split- ting in two, cutting in pieces and cooking in the milk ; the flavor- ing for Almond Creavi should be prepared by blanching and pound- ing the kernels to a paste with rose water, using arrowroot for thick- ening. Always use the Princesse Almond. For Cocoa-nut Ice- cream, grate cocoa-nut and add to the cream and sugar just before freezing. The milk should never be heated for pine-apple, straw- berry, or raspberry cream. It is often desirable to be able to make ice-creams and water-ices of the summer fruits when they are out of season and at same time retain as much as possible of their ac- customed flavor and freshness, also to avail one's self of the finest fruits of the various kinds at the lowest rates obtainable in the height of the season, and for this purpose make plentifully of Fruit Flavors, as given in Jams and Jellies. For making ice-cream use

ICES Am> ICE-CREAM. 387

either fine granulated sugar or white sifted sugar, except where cream or milk is not cooked, then use best pulverized sugar.

Both the Lacteanola and Philadelphia, being eggless, are con- sidered better adapted to be used with fruit, as the eggs and fruit flavors are not thought to blend well, but this is a matter of taste. The eggless creams are more economical where one has plenty of cream, as each dozen eggs requires half pound sugar to sweeten them and each quart cream or milk half pound, also. Any propor- tion of eggs may be used to a quart of milk or cream, using sugar in quantity to correspond, viz : for three eggs, eighth pound sugar, making with the half pound sugar for milk, five-eighths pound sugar.

A freezer — White Mountain, Peerless or any of the best patent freezers — a wooden paddle made of hickory, maple, ash or oak, a fine wire sieve or crash strainer, seem almost a necessity in making ices and ice-creams, and there are also many other articles used which are given in Kitchen Utensils ; of course one can make them without so complete an outfit but the process is more tedious. Put ice in a coarse coffee-sack, pound with an ax or mallet until some lumps are size of an egg and most of them as small as a hickory-nut ; see that the freezer is properly set in tub, the beater in the socket, the cover secure, and a cloth in the hole and tin cup inverted over it, first hav- ing put on cross-piece, and turned the crank to see if everything is right; now place around it a layer of ice three or four inches thick, then a thin layer of salt — rock salt pounded fine or the common coarse salt is best, some advise sea salt, but never use table salt, as it causes the ice to melt too rapidly — then ice again, then salt, and so on until packed full, with a layer of ice last. The propor- tion should be about three-fourths ice and one-fourth salt. Pack very solid, pounding with a broom-handle or stick, then remove the cover and pour in the ice-cold preparation, filling only two-thirds full, leaving room for expansion ; replace cover and after five or ten min- utes pack ice down again and begin to freeze, turning the crank slowly and steadily until rather difiicult to turn ; open can, add whipped cream, beat in well with wooden paddle, cover, and again turn till difficult to turn longer ; some claim this last turning of eight or ten minutes should be as rapid as possible. Half an ho

388 ICE3 AND ICE-CREAM.

ger of water entering can, do not draw off while freezing as the in- tense cold of the water assists greatly in freezing. When done, brush ice and salt from and remove the cover, take out beater, scrape the cream down from the sides of freezer, beat well several minutes with a wooden paddle, replace the cover, fill the hole with a cork or a clean cloth and over this invert a tin cup, let off all the water, pack again with ice (using salt at bottom and between layers but none at top of tub), heap ice on the cover, spread over it a piece of carpet or a thick woolen blanket kept for this purpose, and set away in a cool place to harden two or three hours, or until needed. Some wet the blanket or carpet well with the icy brine that was drawn off and after an hour or two open the freezer, scrape down and beat cream again, and pack down with fresh ice and salt. In ver}^ warm weather it may be necessary to renew the ice and salt a second, or even a third time ; the only rule is that as often as the brine appears at the top, causing the ice to float, it must be drawn off, and the tub repacked. Keep the blanket Avet with the brine ; the evaporation causes intense cold, and helps to keep the ice from wasting, but when "brine blanket" is used cover top of freezer first witli a dry blanket, then ice, etc. About twenty-five pounds ice is necessary fur two or three gallons ice-cream in summer time, and the best is that whicli is por- ous and full of air cells, commonly called ''snow ice." Snow itself is also an excellent freezing material and as it is often desirable to be able to make ices in the winter season, when there is no ice in the house, if there be snow upon the ground it

ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 389

faithfully and skillfully applied, will be firm, smooth and fine- grained like the best butter or jelly. Some freeze in a warm place, believing that the more rapid the melting of the ice the quicker the cream freezes. If cream begins to melt while serving, beat up well from the bottom with the long wooden paddle.

After the last beating and before covering again with ice, if wished molded, fill cream solidly in every part of mold, that there may be no air spaces, working up and down with a spoon, which presses the cream in every part and also lightens it ; heap it a lit- tle above the brim, press the cover doAvnhard, bind a buttered cloth over the joint, or use buttered or oiled paper put on with paste or gum tragacanth, bury it in a pan or tub of ice and salt and cover with a blanket. If it be a figure or design in two parts, fill each half of mold a little more than full ; the excess squeezes out on shutting it. Seme cover top of cream in mold with thick Avhite paper. When ready to serve, wash mold with cold water to remove the brine ; take off cloth, and wipe mold dry, lift off cover, turn mold over on a plate, and if room is warm, it will slip off the cream in a few seconds. It is better not to use warm water on the mold ; it causes the cream to melt and run down the surface in unsightly streams. The variety of molds is very large, from the plain pyra- mid to the most elaborate combinations of figures, animals, flowers and fruits, corresponding to the flavor, as oranges for orange ice-cream, etc., and new designs and devices are brought out every year. The Pyramid is made of a great many styles, both plain and fluted, and is useful for center-pieces, either of one or of several varieties and colors of creams or water-ices, put in layers. The Brick is a plain, oblong mold, with straight, slightly tapering sides. It is made of several sizes, from a pint to two quarts. The Cabinet, so called from its being used for Cabinet puddings, is oval in shape, about nine inches long, six inches

390 ICES AND TCE-CREAM.

old fashioned freezer without patent inside, are as follows : After preparing th^^ freezer as above and placing the cream or custard in can, remove lid carefully, and with a long wooden paddle beat the cream like batter steadily for about five or six minutes. Replace lid, pack two inches of pounded ice over it, spread above all several folds of blanket or carpet, and leave it untouched for an hour ; at the end of that time remove the ice from above the freezer-lid, wipe off carefully and open the freezer. Its sides will be lined with a thick layer of frozen cream. Displace this with the paddle, work- ing every part of it loose ; beat up cream again firmly and vigorously for fifteen or twenty minutes, until it is a smooth, half-congealed paste. The perfection of the ice-cream depends upon the thorough- ness of the beating at this point. Put on cover again, pack in more ice and salt, turn off brine, cover freezer entirely with ice, and spread the carpet over all. At the end of an hour or two again turn off brine and add fresh ice and salt, but do not open the freezer for two hours more. At that time take the freezer from the ice, open it, wrap a towel wet in hot water about the lower part and turn out a solid column of ice-cream, close grained, firm and delicious. Any of the recipes for ice-cream may be frozen in this way. Or they may be frozen without any freezer, by simply placing in a covered tin pail, setting latter in an ordinary wooden bucket, and proceeding as above directed for Self-freezing Ice-cream, always remembering to not much more than half fill can or pail, as the action of cream against sides of can when it is beaten hastens the freezing.

A delicate way of serving ice-cream is to place upon it a sf oon of whipped cream, and the most elaborate is to enclose it in me- ringues or kisses (see Confectionery). Fill the shells with whatever ice-cream or other ices prepared, put together by twos, thus forming a large egg, tie it around with a ribbon of suitable color, and send to table. When several kinds are served at one time, they are desig- nated by ribbons of the same color as the creams or ices ; white for almond or vanilla, brown for chocolate, pale and deep yellow for lemon, pine-apple and orange, pink for strawberry, green for pistachio, fawn for peach and apricot, and so for all the others. Sometimes, after filling, the edges of the shells are lightly touched with the soft part that was removed, to make them stick together. For Mar- hied Meringues^ fill with two or more creams of different colors, as for example, vanilla in one-half and chocolate in the other, or straw-

ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 391

berry and orange, lemon and pistachio, peach and almond, and any other combination fancy may dictate. A pleasing contrast also is furnished by filling one-half with ice-cream and the other with water- ice, or one with a vanity and the other with frozen fruit. The ribbons should be double-faced and of shades to correspond with and indi- cate the contents ; or take plain ribbons of the two colors required, stitch two pieces, one of each color, together at ends, each half the en- tire length wished, and tie around the meringue, finishing in a bow- knot, one-half of the bow thus being of each color. Angel or Cream Cake, Cream Sandwiches, White Lady Fingers, or Centennial Drops are nice served with Ice-cream.

For freezing small molds and also Bisque or Biscuit Glace have a large tin mold, either square or rectangular ; fill this with little paper cases, which must fit the tin mold exactly in every part. These little cases may be made round, oval, oblong, square, or as little baskets, and about the size of a patty pan, of smooth, heavy white paper or light card-board, and a frill of lace paper put around the edge gives a pretty effect ; fill with the mixture, and cover mold with a hermetically fitting top. In the bottom of a Avooden box, made for the purpose eight inches larger each way, with a cover and handles, put about six or eight inches of pounded ice and coarse salt in alternate layers; in this place tin mold of filled cases with another eight inches of ice and salt ; cover the whole with a thick, heavy cloth, or blanket, and let stand six or eight hours. The box containing ice should have a small plugged hole, to allow escape of water from melted ice. When mold is taken from ice, wipe well before opening, to prevent any salt-water getting in. Or a more elaborate square tin box is made with shelves, with feet at each cor- ner to support them, and called a "cave," and when shelves are filled and placed in, one above the other, is also packed in the outer box with ice and salt. Then there is a patent cave that is round like an ice-cream freezer ; to fill, put shelf into can, packed as for ice-cream, cover with cases, then another shelf and so on till all are added ; put on lid, press tightly down, bind the joint like any mold, cover with pounded ice, then with a woolen cloth or blanket, then ice and salt and the "brine blanket." Let stand as ice-cream, draw- ing off water and repack

392 ICES AND ICE-CREAM.

have tin shelves made to fit the can, with three supports or feet two or- three inches high, and if wished an extra cover without any oj<ening in top, although with that plugged and carefully protected it will not be necessary ; remove beater, put in shelves, fill, cover, bind and cover with ice as above. In caring for patent ice-cream freezers, the cogs should be oiled occasionally and every part of the can, beater, etc., should be well cleaned and dried on top the stove or in sun before putting away.

In making recipes refer to table of weights and measures for relative proportions of pounds, pints, teacups, gills, etc. Whipped cream may be added when cream is half frozen, or later, just before it is packed for hardening, and the quantity given in the following recipes is measured before whipping. In all recipes where only cream is used, part new milk may be substituted in any proportion wished, using with it the arrowroot, corn-starch or flour in proportion as given, remembering that the milk must always be cooked with the sugar and thickening, strained, cooled and then the cream added ; but when cream alone is used it may be cooked or not as liked. Always use a custard kettle and strain all mixtures while hot. In giving proportions of ingredients in different recipes where cream and milk are used the term liquid will be given to cover both. Custard ice-cream or Neapolitan is considered by some preferable for Caramel, Chocolate, Coffee, Lemon, Vanilla and the different nut creams, and the Philadelphia and Lacteanola, without eggs, as already suggested, better adapted to fruit flavors, but where the light- ness given by eggs is wished without the flavor, the whites alone can be used and added when cream is partially frozen. It is better to use earthen bowls, crocks, jars, etc., to hold any of the milk, cream or fruit preparations while in process of making ice- creams, and Ave feel like repeating instructions for adding fruit and juices, as one will be fully repaid for the extra trouble. Always add juice when cream is partly frozen, and especially is this true of very acid fruit, as currants, lemons, etc., for it is apt to curdle the cream if added before freezing; if fruit is used, chop and add ju

ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 393

candied fruits are used the French are of course the best, but one can dry and prepare them at home, and if either are not obtainable a substitute can be had by using any firm-fleshed, home-made pre- serves, such as cherries, strawberries, pears, peaches, pine-apples or quinces. Drain off syrup, chop into dice, roll in pulverized sugar and stir into cream, as above. In vanilla flavoring some use the bean, a small bean to a quart, others heaping tablespoon powder, others half ounce vanilla sugar, while most use half tablespoon ex- tract to above proportion. The preparing, flavoring, molding and serving of ice-creams can be so varied, according to the taste of the kitchen-queen, that by carefully reading directions and recipes she can soon make any combinations wished, and by adding "here a little and there a little" create new and delicious flavors.

Almond Ice-cream. — Cook two quarts cream, the prepared almonds and three teacups sugar in custard kettle, strain, cool and freeze ; prepare almonds as follows : blanch and rub to a paste, with four tablespoons each sugar and cream reserved from the above quantities, half pound shelled almonds and a few drops rose water. Add when half frozen one quart cream, whipped, teaspoon almond extract and half vanilla. For Almond Caramel^^ni the blanched almonds in oven, roast quickly to a yellow brown and then prepare and add as above, adding half teaspoon caramel in place of almond extract. For Pistachio Ice-cream make as above, using pistachio nuts instead of almonds, with a heaping teaspoon Spinach Coloring to give a fine color. If wished with eggs, use eggs and more sugar in proportion as given in general directions. Some use only two ounces shelled nuts to each quart cream. Any Nut Ice-cream can be made in same way except that walnuts and hickory nuts are not blanched.

Arrowroot Ice-cream. — Boil two quarts milk, add half pint arrow- root mixed smooth with pait of the milk and two pounds sugar; when cold add two quarts cream, whites of six eggs, tablespoon any flavoring and freeze.

Boston Ice-cream. — Make a boiled custard of three pints cream three teacups sugar and yolks often eggs ; strain, cool, freeze and add teacup crumbs of steamed brown bread, prepared by drying, grating and sifting, pint cream, whipped, and well-frothed whites, and pack as directed. This can be made without eggs, and also by cooking part of crumbs with custard, giving rather more body to cream.

Buttermilk Ice-cream. — Strain buttermilk through a thin cloth, so as to remove all lumps and particles of butter, add sugar until very sweet and flavor with vanilla. Freeze as directed.

394 ICES AXD ICE-CREAM.

Caramel Ice-cream. — One and a half pounds brown sugar, three quarts cream, one pint boiling milk. Put su^ar in an iron frying-pan ©n fire and stir until it is a liquid, stir it in the milk, strain, and when cool add to cream. Whipping all or part of the cream makes it more delicious. Or to any of the cooked founda- tions or preparations add only half the sugar to the milk or cream and make a caramel as above with the rest, add to boiled mixture, strain, cool and freeze. The flavor may be varied by browning the sugar more or less.

Chestnut Ice-cream. — The native chestnut may be used, but is not as fine as the Italian variety. Boil, and to a quarter pound pulp add two tablespoons sugar, and four of cream, rub to a smooth paste and add it to three pints cream, three teacups sugar and twelve eggs ; cook, strain, cool, freeze, and add, just before packing, a pint cream, whipped, and juice of one orange.

OhoGolate Ice-cream. — Scald one pint new milk, add by de grees three-quarters pound sugar, two eggs, and five tablespoons grated chocolate, rubbed smooth in a little milk. Beat well for a moment or two, place over fire and heat until it thickens, stir- ring constantly, set off, add a tablespoon of thin, dissolved gelatine, and when cold, place in freezer; when it begins to set, add a quart of rich cream, half of it well whipped. To make a mold of chocolate and vanilla, freeze in separate freezers,' divide a mold through the center with card-board, fill each division with a different cream, and set mold in ice and salt for an hour or *'"'=y icc-cream.

more. For that delicious preparation. Chocolate Fruit Ice-cream^ add when cream is frozen French candied fruit, or a coffee-cup preserv- ed peaches, or any other preserves, prepared as directed. For Spiced Chocolate Ice-cream, cook three pints cream and two teacups sugar; prepare spice by pouring over thrce-qua,rters teaspoon best pulver- ized cinnamon, seven tablespoons boiling water and let stand on back of stove, (must not boil), twenty minutes; pour off clear liquid and add to it quarter pound grated chocolate, or less if not wished highly flavored. Add this to the hot cream, strain, cool and freeze as directed. When half frozen add one pint cream, whipped and fla- vored with half teaspoon vanilla. Delicious served in glasses or dishes covered with taljlespoon Avhipped cream or meringue, also ven^ dainty molded in individual molds and surrounded with whip- ped cream. For Chocolate Caramel, make as above, using four tablespoons caramel in place of cinnamon, adding it with the whip- ped cream and vanilla. Or to the above hot cream mixture add a chocolate paste made as follows : Stir in a dish, set in pan of hot water, six tablespoons grated chocolate, two tablespoons each sugar and boiling water, till smooth and glossy; adding whipped white of ^^ ^gg just before removing from fire, is an improvement. After add-

rCES AND ICE-CREAM. 395

ing to mixture, strain, cool, freeze and finish as above, adding whip- ped cream and flavoring. For Chocolate Custard^ to any two quarts custard preparation add the above paste and one table- spoon dissolved gelatine and proceed as above. For Chocolate Moss ^ mix one quart double cream, whipped to a stiff froth, and drained on sieve, with half pound sugar and three-quarters tablespoon vanilla. Meantime have two squares Baker's chocolate melted by plac- ing in a small tin basin over a teakettle boiling water. Stir choco- late carefully into the whipped cream. Pour into freezer, taking out beater, or in a pail and freeze without stirring. When wished for the table, dip a cloth in boiling water and wrap about the freezer until the cream slides out, or better, let freezer stand in warm room for a little while. Slice and it looks like variegated moss. Two tablespoons gelatine, soaked in cold water two or three hours, may be added to the whipped cream. Five tablespoons grated choco- late to each quart liquid, in any of the above recipes, gives a pleas- ant flavored ice-cream.

Cocoa-nut Ice-cream. — Cook one pint milk, three eggs, grated rind of one lemon and a teacup and a half sugar in custard kettle ; when thickened, strain, cool, freeze, and when half frozen add cup grated fresh cocoa-nut, prepared as candied fruits in Cabinet Ice- cream, one quart cream, whipped, and juice of one lemon. Des- sicated cocoa-nut can be used without any preparation.

Custard Ice-cream. — Beat yolks of five eggs,add eight well round- ed tablespoons white sugar ; boil a quart milk, stir with it one table- spoon corn-starch (previously dissolved in a little cold milk) ; when cooked until as cream, cool, add one quart cream, the eggs and sugar ; season with lemon or vanilla and freeze. Plain custard is also good frozen. Sliced peaches greatly improve this or any frozen custard, added just before serving the cream.

Coif'ee Ice-cream. — Grind very fine a quarter pound coffee, half each Mocha and Java, or use the pulverized, taking only half as much. Put one quart cream on in custard kettle ; when hot add coffee and cook ten or fifteen minutes, strain, add pint more cream, yolks of twelve eggs and three teacups sugar ; cook, strain, cool, freeze and when half frozen add pint cream, whipped, and also the whites ; or where the made coff'ee is used, scald a pint milk and stir in a tablespoon arrowroot, mixed smooth in a little cold cream, add two cups sugar and cup very strong clear coffee sweetened to taste ; when cold stir in quart cream, whipped, and freeze ; or for Whipped Coifee Ice-cream, whip one quart double cream, add cup each sugar and strong black coffee, whip to a froth, pile in goblets, freeze and serve. In winter time can be placed out doors or in summer time in Cave as described. For White Coifee Ice-cream.^ pour one quart boiling cream over half pound freshly roasted whole Mocha

396 ICES AND ICE-CREAM.

and Java, half and half; place in custard kettle and keep on back of range for an hour or so, where water in outer kettle will keep hot, not boil ; strain, return to inner kettle and add yolks of twelve eggs, beaten smooth with teacup and half sugar ; when it begins to thicken,

take off, strain, cool, freeze, and when half done add pint cream, whipped, and if wanted very delicious the well-frothed whites may be used ; if so, add with the cofTee Icecream. crcani, and usc lu thc custard a half teacup

more sugar. Mold in melon mold and serve surrounded by whip- ped cream. Tea Ice-cream is made as above, using one ounce tea.

Eggless Ice-cream. — One quart cream,two quarts new milk, scant half teacup flour, or two tablespoons, and one and a half pounds gran- ulated sugar, or three teacups ; put three pints milk in custard kettle, or in pail, set in kettle of water; w^hen hot stir in flour, previously mixed smooth in one pint new milk ; let cook ten or fifteen minutes, stirring once or twice, then add sugar and stir constantly for a few minutes till it is well dissolved. Remove and strain while hot through a crash strainer. When cold add one pint cream and place in freezer. When half frozen, take a wooden paddle, scrape down sides and stir in Avell one pint double cream, previously whipped and flavored with one and a half tablespoons va- nilla, put on cover and pack as directed. This makes one gallon and is suflficient for two dozen dishes ; or take in all three pints new milk, one and a quarter pints cream, one tablespoon flour, two teacups sugar, and one tablespoon vanilla, and prepare as above, reserving and whipping all instead of part of cream and adding when half frozen. This makes sufiicient for sixteen or eighteen dishes and any proportion may be taken for a less number. For Fig Ice-cream two teacups figs cut fine may be added with the whipped cream. For Almond Ice-cream^ to each quart liquid, milk or cream, use four ounces shelled almonds prepared as follows : Blanch and pound to a paste with half pint cream or milk and four tablcs])oons sugar, re- served from above quantities and a few drops rose water to prevent oiling of nuts; add to milk in custard kettle and cook with rest of sugar; finish as above and add with whipped cream half teaspoon almond extract and quarter teaspoon vanilla; or if a more decided

Any of the recipes with fruit, nut or any flavor where all cream is used can be made as above, using same proportions of liquid, only two-thirds ncAV milk to one-third cream, or half and Iialf, or any proportion wished, preparing milk as above, and adding other in-

ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 397

gredients as in recipe. In whipping cream for ice-cream, if double cream is used, it is not always necessary to drain on sieve, as it will all whip stiff enough to be used.

Gelatine Ice-cream. — Soak one half package of Cox's gelatine in a pint new milk ; boil two pints new milk, and pint and a third sugar, strain, add the soaked gelatine, stirring well ; when cold add one quart cream, tablespoon vanilla, and freeze \ or reserve half of cream, whip and add as directed.

Ginger Ice-cream. — Bruise four ounces preserved ginger in a mortar or bowl, using potato masher, add two-thirds pint powdered sugar, and one pint cream ; mix well, strain, freeze and when ready to pack add two ounces preserved ginger, cut in dice, and juice of one lemon and pint cream, whipped.

Harlequin Ice-cream,.— This is any three ice-creams wished arranged in layers, as illustrated, in the Brick mold ; vanilla, pistachio

and strawberry are used together, or choco- late, strawberry and vanilla, or almond, or any nut or fruit cream, or a water-ice

is used for one layer. The mold is then

^-~J/iy=Mft'="^"^ bound and packed as directed.

HicJwry-nut Ice-cream.— K pound hickory-nut kernels, two cups sugar, quart cream. Pick over the kernels carefully for pieces of shell, then pound in a mortar with a little sugar and water added. Put two tablespoons of the sugar over fire without water, stir con- stantly till melted and browned, add a little water to dissolve it, then add to cream with the sugar and nut paste and freeze.

Jam Ice-cream. — Prepare one pound of jam as directed, add one and a quarter pints cream, mix well and strain, freeze, and when partly frozen add juice of one lemon. Apricox, Raspberry, etc., are very nice made in this way.

Keniuchj Ice-cream. — Make a half gallon rich boiledcustard, sweeten to taste, add two tablespoons gelatine dissolved in a half cup cold milk ; let the custard cool, put it in freezer, and as soon as it begins to freeze add one quart cream, whipped, and just before serving one pound raisins and one pint strawberry preserves. Blanched almonds or grated cocoa-nut are additions. Some pre- fer currants to raisins, and some also add citron chopped fine.

Italian Ice-cream. — Whip three pints cream and add to it three-quarters pound best pulverized sugar and tablespoon vanilla; freeze, and when frozen and ready for packing stir carefully into it the following : Half teacup granulated sugar, cooked in quarter pint water till it "threads" when a little is taken up on a spoon, or will become as soft wax when tested in cold water ; then pour it slowly

398 ICES AND ICE-CREAM.

over the well-frothed whites of two eggs, pouring with the left hand and beating constantly with the right, as in making Boiled Icing, till it is cold. After stirring into frozen cream, cover and pack as directed, or the cream may be cooked instead of whipped. For Italian Custard Ice-cream, cook the cream with two teacups gran- ulated sugar, yolks of nine eggs ; strain, cool, add the vanilla, freeze and finish as above. For Whipped Ice-cream, whip quart cream, add two-thirds pint pulverized sugar and half tablespoon vanilla ; freeze as directed. Any other flavoring may be used.

Lemon Ice-cream. — To two quarts sour cream that has soured quickly, take one of sweet cream, pound and a half sugar, the juice and rind of one lemon ; cut the rind thin, and steep it ten or fifteen minutes in half a pint of the sweet cream over boiling water ; strain, cool, and add to the rest, and freeze ; or make a custard of one quart cream, yolks of six eggs and three and a half teacups sugar, (reserving six tablespoons, two for preparing the zest, as in Saratoga Ice-cream, and four to mix with the juice, obtained as directed, of three lemons and one small orange ;)let boil, strain, cool and freeze : To grated rind of two lemons, being careful not to grate any of white pith, as it is bitter, add the prepared juice, let stand an hour or two, strain and add with pint cream, whipped, and the well beaten whites, to the cus- tard when half frozen ; or make as above, omitting juice and rind and flavor with table£j)oon lemon extract.

Macaroon Ice-cream. — One and one-half pints cream, half tea- cup dry macaroons, grated and sifted, teacup white sugar, yellow rind of one orange, grated, and the juice of two. Whip cream, add sugar, freeze, and when half frozen add macaroons and the orange juice and rind ; or to any half frozen preparation, in proportion of teacup or half pound sugar to each quart cream or milk, add the sifted macaroons and if almond macaroons add six drops extract almond to same. For Macaroon Caramel, first roast macaroons to a 3'ellow brown and add a few drops caramel, and for Triple Ice-cream make as above and add tablespoon each sponge cake, macaroon and mcridgue crumbs, prepared by grating ana sifting when dry. Flavor with teaspoon and a half nectarine extract. Serve in the little cases, first placing them in the "cave" as described.

New York Ice-cream. — Boil quart thin cream, with teacup and a half sugar and a vanilla bean in it. Beat yolks of twelve eggs light and pour the boiling cream to them. Set on fire again for a minute. This yellow custard will not become frothy, rich and 1 ght in the freezer if cooked too much, and should be taken off and strained as soon as slightly thickened. Freeze as directed. Mold in a round mold with a chocolate cream for center layer and a lemon cream above. This is very delicious.

ICE3 AND ICE-CREAM. 399

Orange Ice-creain. — Cook two quarts cream and two teacups sugar, cool, strain and freeze. Prepare juice of one dozen oranges and one lemon as in Saratoga Ice-cream, add grated rind of two oranges, and cook to a syrup with one and one-third teacups sugar, strain, cool and mix with cream when half frozen. Strawherry Ice-cream is made as above, first preparing one quart juice from two or three quarts berries, by mashing through the wire sieve, add- ing to pulp in sieve when juice ceases to run, two-thirds teacup sugar (this is in addition to quantity given for ice-cream), let stand an hour, masli, strain and add to first juice, then cook to a syrup and finish as above. A teaspoon or two orange juice added with the syrup makes a delicious flavor. Raspberry Ice-cream is made as the Strawberry using the Cuthbert variety. For Riced Orange Ice- cream, wash and parboil eight or nine tablespoons best rice, put in custard kettle with quart milk and pint cream, teacup and a half sugar and a pinch salt ; cook till grains are almost dissolved ; when done, stir in yolks of six eggs and two tea- spoons vanilla, mix well together, freeze as

directed, then place in mold and pack. When Eioed orange ice-oream. ready to serve take from mold and place on the top and around the base a dozen'oranges prepared as in Orange Compote.

Peach Ice-cream. — Mash to a pulp one quart peaches, strain through a hair sieve and add six ounces of loaf-sugar which has been on range to dissolve a few minutes ; add one pint and a half cream, a few drops of cochineal to give a nice peach-color and freeze as directed ; or cook three pints cream and two teacups sugar, strain and when cool freeze ; when half frozen add one heaping pint peach pulp mixed to a smooth paste with two teacups sugar and add also the' pint of cream, wliipped. Two quarts peaches make one pint pulp. If wished, reserve quarter of them, cut in dice and add to cream just before serving. To prepare pulp do not peel till just ready to use, as all light fruits darken so quickly, and it is better to even drop in cold water as soon as peeled, but must not remain long as juice wdll be extracted; chop in fruit boAvl, mash, and add sugar as above, stirring till dissolved and strain before adding to frozen cream. Peach Ice-cream. If Pcacli Fluvor is uscd, take twice as much as of

the pulp and mix it with the cooked cream after latter has cooled. Canned peaches are used same way as fresh fruit, utilizing the juice for pudding sauces or ices. Any of above recipes may be molded and surrounded with pieces of the fruit when served. Nice Apricot and ApjAe Ice-cream may be made as above, except do not pare fruit. Plum and Cherry Ice-cream are made same way, except after stoning and mashing the fruit add a few of the kernels pounded to a paste, and the dark fruits can stand an hour or so, stirring occasionally; if the light fruits are placed in a covered

400 ICES AXD ICE-CREAM.

dish they may also he kept awhile and will strain easier. Any fruit may be used as above and for Swiss Ice-creaia whip all of the cream, instead of cooking a part, using powdered sugar and not straining ; freeze, add fruit and finish as above, and if wished even more delicious add with the fruit whites of six eggs, beaten with a quarter teacup sugar.

Pine-apple Tee-cream. — Three pints cream, two large ripe pine- apples, pared, and eyes, heart or core removed, as latter is bitter, two pounds powdered sugar ; slice pine-apples thin, scatter sugar between slices, cover and let stand three hours ; cut or chop it up in the syrup, and strain through a hair seive or double bag of coarse lace ; beat gradually into the cream, and freeze, adding when half frozen a pint of cream, whipped ; reserve a few pieces of pine-apple, unsugared, cut into square bits, and stir through cream when frozen. Peach Ice-cream may be made in same way ; or for Saratoga Ice-cream take above pro- portions, using granulated sugar ; cook the cream and two teacups sugar, strain, cool and freeze and when half frozen, add fruitj nice prepared as follows : P"»«-app'« i^e-cream. Mash and strain the pulp, a heaping pint, and to this add juice of two oranges and one lemon. (To better obtain juice of latter, roll, rub with a spoonful or two of sugar to obtain the zest, then pare, scrape off all of the inner Avhite rind down to pulp, as this is bitter, cut in half, pick out seeds, squeeze out juice, dissolve the zest in it and strain. ) Cook all the juice with two teacups sugar to a syrup, strain and cool and add with the pint of cream, whipped, when preparation is half frozen. !Mold and serve with whipped cream as a garnish. Pine apple darkens very quickly and should be cooked as soon as pre- pared. Banana Ice-cream is made as above, using teacup less sugar, and juice of one lemon, or half and half orange and lemon.

Strawherry Ice-cream. — Sprinkle strawberries with sugar, mash well and rub through a sieve ; to a pint juice add half a pint good cream, make very sweet, freeze, and when half frozen, stir in lightly one pint of cream, whipped, and handful of Avhole strawber- ries, sweetened. Mold and pack ; or mash with a potato pounder in an earthen bowl one quart of strawberries with one pound of sugar; rub through a colander, add one quart sweet cream and freeze. Or if not in the strawberry season, use tlie French bottled strawberries (or any canned ones), mix juice with half a pint of cream, sweeten, freeze aud add whipped cream and strawberries as above. Peach or Ajijyle Ice-cream may be made in same way, using very ripe peaches and the yellow bellHower apple. In molding, one can put an inch layer of any of the above fruit creams and then fill with Vanilla Ice-cream, dropping in here and there a little candied fruit. This makes Cab- inet Ice-cream, and can be prettily molded by placing carefully some of the candied fruit next mold before filling, and more elaborately

ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 401

by filling the mold two-thirds full of Almond Ice-cream ; set it in bed of ice and salt; then to two quarts ice-cream, whip half pint double cream, mix in lightly one-third pint pulverized sugar and add quar- ter pound each blanched almonds, candied cherries, pears and apricots, first soaking fruits and nuts in a hot sugar syrup till soft, then chopping into dice and lightly dusting with pulverized sugar ; mix this prepared cream carefully through the ice-cream in mold, put on cover, bind and pack as directed. For Surprise Ice-cream, put three pints of strawberries in a deep dish with one cup pulverized sugar and juice of one orange ; whip four pints cream and add two cups sugar, freeze, take out beater and draw frozen cream to sides of freezer. Fill space in center with the strawberries and sugar, and pile the frozen cream over them. Put on cover and pack as di- rected. When the cream is turned out, garnish the base with straw- berries. Raspberries or any fruit may be used in same way, taking a little less sugar for sweeter fruits, and may be molded as in Fruit Surprise.

Tea Ice-cream. — Pour a pint cream over four tablespoons Old Hyson tea, scald in custard kettle, or by placing the dish contain- ing it in a kettle .of boiling water, remove from fire and let stand five minutes ; strain into a pint cold cream, scald again, and when hot mix with it four eggs and teacup and a half sugar, v/ell beaten together ; let cool and freeze.

Vanilla Ice-cream. — Mix three pints sweet cream, pint new milk, pint pulverized sugar, whites of two eggs, beaten light ; freeze. Serve plain or as Fruit Surprise by lining a mold with it, then fill center with fresh berries, sweetened, or fruit cut in slices, and cover with the ice-cream, put on lid, bind and set in freezer for half an hour, with salt and ice well packed around it. The fruit must be chilled, but not frozen. Strawberries and peaches are delicious thus prepared. Or for Vanilla Custard Ice-cream, cook in kettle in proportion of one quart cream, six eggs and teacup and a half sugar ; strain, cool, add third of tablespoon vanilla and freeze as directed; reserving the whites, beating and adding when custarri is half frozen, makes it lighter ; adding when this is frozen ready to pack, half pint mixed candied cherries, raisins, currants and citron prepared as in Cabinet Ice-cream, makes Tutti Frutti Ice-cream.

Cream Biscuit. — These are generally made of all cream,although we give a recipe with part milk and three with a syrup. The cream must be pure double cream, whipped to a stiS' froth and drained on sieve as directed. There are only one or two kinds that are frozen as ice-cream ; fur the others, molds, paper cases, fruit cases, etc., are filled with the mixture and placed in the cave, as directed, for three or four hours. The cave in Avhich the ice-cream freezer is utilized is best, and using the same care in packing as with ice-cream there would be no necessity for a different cover or for binding the joint

402 ICK8 AND ICE-CREAM.

after covered ; so the only additional article needed would be a set of shelves to fill the size freezer u?ed, and it would be wise to have two or three extra shelves with feet of different heights so that in- dividual molds, glasses, fruit cases and any other receptacle in Avhich ice-cream, biscuits, ices, etc., are molded could bo frozen. Or as a substitute for all a large tin pail can be used for freezer and round pieces to fit made of heavy white card-board for shelves, plac- ing them on top each layer of cases, etc. When thus used do not fill cases quite full and after placing a layer of them in pail, cover with a round piece of clean white paper to fit, then the card-board shelf, then more cases and so on till all are used, when cover pail, pack , and finish as directed. Below are recipes of different varieties of biscuits.

Custard Biscuit. — Beat well eight yolks of eggs, with teacup and a quarter sugar, a very little salt and one pint cream. Stir over the fire until slightly thickened. Flavor with either vanilla pow- der, the almond or lemon extract or coffee or chocolate. It may also be made by adding a puree of peaches, strawberries, raspberries, or pine-apple to custard. Freeze as ice-cream and when half frozen stir in lightly one-half pint of cream, whipped ; then partly fill pa- per cases with the mixture, smooth over the tops and place in ice- cream cave.

■ Fruit Biscuit. — Beat yolks of eight eggs and four teacups sugar well together, add quart of any fruit juice, cook in custard kettle, strain and place on ice, and add to it two ounces gelatine, dis- solved by adding a very little warm water, placing it in pan of hot water and setting on back of range, ^^''hen mixture thickens add quart cream, fill cases, and place in cave.

Italian Biscuit. — Boil together pint each granulated sugar and water twenty minutes, add well-beaten white of an egg and boil ten minutes longer. Strain into an earthen dish and add yolks of twelve eggs and whites of two and five tablespoons orange juice. Set dish in a pan of hot water during process of beating. Beat briskly until it resembles a well-prepared, firm, sponge-cake batter. Fill cases with it and smooth over tops and pack and freeze as above. Or the mixture may be frozen in one mold, and some sifted macaroon powder or grated chocolate sprinkled over the surface, to imitate a baked souifle., and with care the hot salamander maybe used. By adding three-quarters pint peach pulp and stirring lightly with the mixture half pint cream, whipped , and a quarter teaspoon va- nilla, luscious Peach Biscuit v^ill be the result, and can be filled in paper cases, or in the Brick mold, or in a long mold just the width and neight of the cases, and when frozen, turn out, cut in slices, or if in long mold in pieces size of cases and frost with a Chocolate IcCj made of half pint syrup and four ounces best chocolate, smoothly mixed, and frozen ; or a Strawberry or Raspberry Ice may be used,

ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 403

and some add to the ice whites of three eggs beaten -well with three tablespoons sugar. Serve in paper cases. Or for Strawlerry Biscuit add pint strawberry pnlp instead of peach and then the half pint cream, whipped. Fill in cases and surround each with a band of stiff paper, reaching half an inch above the edge of the case, pinning ends together to secure them ; freeze in cave, and when ready to serve, remove the bands and cover with macaroons bruised fine and browned in oven, and one can quickly use the Salamander iron if liked. The bands of paper are meant to give the appearance to the biscuit of having risen in process of baking.

Nut Biscuit. — Make a syrup as in Vanilla Biscuit, cool and add the nuts blanched and prepared as for ice-cream, quarter pound shelled nuts to each quart cream, and the well-beaten yolks of eight eggs ; return to fire, stir quickly till it thickens, coating the spoon, then strain into a large bowl and beat till cold. Whip quart cream and add lightly with half teaspoon almond extract, if almond or pistachio nuts aye used, and fill in cases. Any flavoring may be used, and blanched nuts and candied fruits, prepared as in Cabinet Ice-cream, may be added just before filling cases.

Vanilla Biscuit. — Beat well together the yolks of eight eggs, and eight ounces powdered sugar. Flavor one pint new milk with vanilla, and boil it. Dissolve in a vessel set in hot water one and a half ounce of gelatine, and as soon as it is dissolved mix with the boiling milk, pour slowly over eggs and sugar, stirring all the time ; when well mixed pass through a sieve and put in very cold place to cool. Whip one pint cream and add it slowly to the cold mixture ; fill cases and freeze. Or, With Syrup, cook in custard kettle tea- cup and a quarter sugar and one gill water, add yolks of eight eggs and stir well for five or ten minutes ; strain into an earthen bowl and beat with an egg beater till it is stiff and cold. Whip quart thick double cream, flavor with quarter tablespoon vanilla and stir it lightly into the above; fill the cases, pack in cave, and finish as directed ; or part of mixture may be colored and flavored with rasp- berry syrup and placed in bottom of cases, then fill them with the plain vanilla and freeze. Or in Fruit Biscuit, fill two-thirds full with the mixture, freeze, and fill up with some water-ice that blends with the flavor used in mixture : For Strawberry Biscuit use a layer of Orange Ice ; for Pineapple Biscuit, Lemon Ice, etc. Any of the above mixtures may be made more elaborate by glazing, but as that needs a confectioner's skill we will not describe it ; but the mere icing of them is given in Strawberry Biscuit, and one can cover their tops when ready to serve with whipped cream or with a plain meringue, and the mixture can also be filled in Lemon or Orange cases, made by cutting ofi" top from fruit and carefully removing pulp.

Sherbet Crystal. — Boil one pint sugar and pint and half

404 ICES AND TCE-CREAM.

water fifteen or twenty minutes, beat yolks of fifteen eggs very light and strain. Place syrup in custard kettle and add yolks, beating with an egg-whisk for ten minutes. Remove inner kettle from fire, place in a pan of cold water and continue beating fifteen min- utes. Pack mold in ice and salt, and spread on sides and bottom of it one quart Strawberry or Raspberry Sherbet ; when hardened, put the cooked mixture in center, being careful not to disturb the sherbet, cover all with a piece of thick white paper, put on cover and finish as directed in packing molds.

Glazed Meringue. — Any ice-cream maybe meringued and glazed successfully. Boil three-quarters pint milk and stir in tablespoon gela- tine that has been soaked an hour or two in half cup cold water, strain into quart cream, add tablespoon vanilla and half pound pulverized sugar ; when frozen, take out beater and pack the cream smoothly, be- ing careful to have the top perfectly level,and pack with ice as directed. When ready to serve, make a meringue of the whites of six eggs and six tablespoons pulverized sugar. Turn the crbam out on a fancy dish and cover every part well with the meringue. Brown with a red hot saLamander or shovel and serve immediately ; or put the frozen cream in round mold and imbed in ice and salt ; have a flat round sponge cake on plate, and when ready to serve turn mold quickly out upon it, cover with the meringue and glaze as al)ove. Another way to serve any ice cream, without the glazing, is to bake a sponge cake in one of "the crown molds, ice it with a white icing, and when ready to serve place on platter, spread inside with any fruit jelly liked and fill center with any ice-cream, frozen in freezer but not molded ; heap whipped cream, sweetened, on top of center and around base of cake and serve.

Frozen Pudding. — Put one pint milk in custard kettle, beat three eggs and teacup sugar together, and add, stirring all the while. Pour the hot custard on twenty-five dry lady fingers, add cup dried currants and let cool. When cold, add two tablespoons orange juice and pint cream, whipped to a froth. Freeze the same as ice- cream. When frozen wet a melon mold in cold water, sprinkle a few currants on the sides and bottom and fill with frozen mixture ; bind and pack as directed. Serve with Apricot Sauce around it. Or With 6^eZrtf//;?^, take dozen each macaroons and cocoa-nut cakes, doz- en and a half lady fingers, and a cup dried currants. Prepare mold as above, sprinkle sides and bottom with currants and put in lay- ers of the cakes, sprinkling with currants till all are used. Put a pint and a half milk in custard kettle, when hot, stir in two table- spoons gelatine, soaked one hour in half cup cold milk, then add four eggs beaten well with teacup sugar, and cook four minutes, stir- ring all the while. Take off, and add i)inch salt and one teaspoon vanilla. Pour this, a few spoonfuls at a time, on the cake and let cool. When cold, cover with thick white paper, and it is well to