CLAM SOUP

First catch your clams— nlong the cbbiug edges Of saline coves you'll fiud the precious wedges, Witu backs up, lurking in the sandy bottom; Full in your iron rake, and lo! you've got "em! Take thirty large on3s, put a basin under, And cleave, with knife, their stony ;a\V6 asunder:

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Add water (three quarts) to the native liquor, Bring to a boil, (and, by the way, the quicker It boils the better, if you'd do it cutely.) Now add the clams, chopped up and minced minutely. Allow a longer boil of just three minutes, And while it bubbles, quiclcly stir within its Tumultuous depths where still the mollusks mutter. Four table-spoons of flour and four of butter, A pint of milk, some pepper to your notion, And clams need salting, although born of ocean, Remove from fire; (if much boiled they will suffer- Yon 11 find that ludia-rubber is u t tougher.) After 'tis ofiF. add three fresh eggs, well beaten. Stir once more, and it's ready to be eaten. Fruit of the wave! O dainty and delicious! Food for the gods ! Ambroteia for Apicius ! Worthy to thrill the soul of sea-born Venus, Or titillate the palate of Silenus. — W. A. Croffut.

Clam Soup. — Wash clams, and place in just sufficient water fo» soup, let boil, and as soon as they clear from shells, take out and place clams in a jar for pickling ; throw into the broth a pint each of sweet milk and rolled crackers, add a little salt, boil five minutes and just before taking from fire, add tablespoon butter beaten with two eggs and serve, letting each person season to taste.

Cocoa-nut Soup. — Simmer six ounces grated cocoa-nut one hour in two quarts veal stock keeping closely covered ; strain care- fully, add gill hot cream, seasoning of salt, Avhite pepper, and a little mace if liked, and thicken with three scant tablespoons rice flour, stirred smooth in little cold milk ; boil one minute and serve. Wheat flour may be used if ric6 flour is not at hand.

Corn Soup. — One large fowl, or four pounds veal (knuckle or neck will do), put over fire in gallon cold water with a little salt, skim well, cover tightly and simmer slowly till meat slips from bones, not allowing it to boil to rags, as it will make a nice dish for breakfast or lunch, or even for dinner. Set aside with meat a cup of the liquor; strain soup to remove all bones and rags of meat; grate dozen ears green corn, scraping cobs to remove the heart ol the kernel, add corn to soup, with salt, pepper, and a little parsley, and simmer slowly half an hour. Just before serving add a table- spoon flour beaten very thoroughly with a tablespoon butter. Serve hot. To serve chicken or veal, put broth (which was reserved) in a clean saucepan, beat one egg, tablespoon butter and teaspoon flour together very thoroughly, and add to it with salt, pepper, and a lit- tle chopped parsley. Arrange meat on dish, pour over the gravy boiling hot, and serve at once. Or for Hasty Corn Soup^ cook to- gether three pints White Stock and pint grated sweet corn twent}^ minutes, then add pint each cream and milk with tablespoon butter, little minced parsley, and a smooth thickening of flour and Avaterif

834 SOUPS.

needed. Season to taste and serve. Or for Meatless Corn Soup, grate twelve ears sweet corn, and put cobs into kettle with cold water enough to cover, and bull one hour; then skim out cobs and add grated corn, with teacup boiling water, and boil half an hour. Add quart of milk, or part cream and milk, salt and pepper, and boil for ten minutes. Put in piece of butter size of an egg, set ket- tle on back of stove and add three well-beaten eggs, stir rapidly for five minutes, and serve immediately with croutons, or Avith crackers. Some add Buckeye Dumplings, boil fifteen minutes and serve. For Corn Chowder, cut half a pound of pork in slices, and fry brown, then take up, and fry two medium-sized onions in the fat. Put quart sliced jiotatoes and three pints grated or cut corn into kettle in layers, sprinkling each layer with salt, pepper and flour, using salts poon pepj>er, two tablespoons salt and five of flour. Strain onions and fat over vegetables, and with a spoon press the juice through strainer ; then slowly pour three pints boiling water through Strainer, rubbing as much onion through as possible. Cover kettle, and boil gently half an hour. Mix two tablespoons of corn-starch with a little milk, and when perfectly smooth, add quart rich milk. Stir this into the boiling chowder. Taste to see if seasoned enough, and if not, add more pepper and salt. Then add half dozen crack- ers, split, buttered and dipped for a minute in cold water. Put on cover, boil up once, and serve.

Cream Soup. — Stir over the fire two tablespoons butter and three of flour in saucepan till smooth, add boiled milk, a half cup at a time, till three pints have been used, half milk and water may be used, or for a richer soup, use half cream -and milk ; season with white pepper, salt, and pinch nutmeg. Serve with croutons added a moment before dishing. For Cream of Beets add a puree of beets made by rubbing well-cooked beets through a fine sieve with a po- tato masher. Cream of Spinach, Asparagus, Celery, Pease, etc., are made in same way. The quantity of pulp can be varied to suit the taste. For Cream of Salmon, rub through puree sieve three- quarters of a pint boiled Salmon, canned maybe used without cook- ing, and add as above.

Cucumber Soup. — Pare one large cucumber, quarter and take out seeds ; cut it in thin slices, put them on plate with little salt, to draw water from them ; drain, and put in saucepan, with butter. Wlien warmed through, without being browned, pour quart stock on them. Add a little sorrel, cliervil, and seasoning, and boil forty minutes. Mix well-beaten yolks of two eggs with gill cream, which add just before serving.

Flemish Soup. — Slice five onions, ten stalks celery, and ten medium-sized potatoes, and put them with three tablespoons butter and half pint water in stewpan, and simmer for an hour. Then add

SOUPS. 835

two quarts Plain Stock and cook gently, till potatoes are done. Rub all through a sieve, add half pint boiled cream and serve at once.

Fruit Soup. — This soup is a general favorite and as it is so very easily made one with little experience can attempt it. There are two divisions the clear and the thick, the latter being made by using the pulp of the fruit. Take any fresh fruit, pie-plant, strawberries, gooseberries, currants, cherries, wild plums, raspberries, etc., and add water and cook till all juice is extracted ; for a clear soup, strain and take amount of juice wished, adding more water, if necessary, till a pleasant flavor, boil, skim, and to three pints liquid add tabro- spoon corn-starch mixed smooth with a little water, sweeten to taste, boil a moment and serve cold in summer, Avith a lump of ice and tablespoon sweetened whipped cream in each dish, or bouillon cup, and hot in winter, omitting cream. Part currants and raspberries may be used together, or any harmonious combination of fruit or the juices; as canned juice can be used and any of the Shrubs are especially delicious. For Raspberry Soup, add water to Raspberry Shrub till of a pleasant flavor, then finish as above Avithout 'sweet- ening. The vinegar already used in the shrub imparts just enough of the acid flavor wished. When using any fresh fruit or canned juice, a little lemon or currant juice may be added to the sweeter fruits, adding the lemon just before removing soup from fire, and a little orange juice to Strawberry Soup made as above gives a richer flavor. A very elaborate recipe is to pick and Avash two quarts strawberries and rub, without cooking, through a puree sieve add- ing water to the pulp till consistency of cream, sweeten to taste and add gill orange, and third of a gill lemon juice. When cold, ice and serve with a few whole berries, which ha

836 SOUPS.

eaten hot ; or when iced accompany with a dish of Dry Toast made as on page 59, or slices of bread, sprinkled with sugar and glazed in oven or fried in butter.

Julienne Soup. — Cut carrots, turnips, parsnips, celery, string beans, etc., into strips as illustrated, about one and a quarter inches long having them all of same size ; take a gill or so of each, fry the carrot pieces in but- ter and pour three quarts boiling stock over them, add the rest of vegetables with some lettuce and sorrel cut in larger pieces, a bay leaf and a small onion, and simmer gentl}'- an hour or until vegetables are tender. Pour the soup over some Croutons i)]aced in tu- strips of vegetables.

reen and serve hot. Some do not fry the carrots but add all to the stock, or water may be used instead of stock. If all vegetables are not obtainable any three of them may be used, but the sorrel is con- sidered indispensable by epicures.

Lemon Soup. — Heat three jnnts Bouillon or any clear stock And pour it upon a well-beaten egg placed in tureen; add juice of large lemon, half pint Croutons and serve at once.

Lohster Soup. — Pick meat from one lobster or two small ones, and beat fins, chine, and small claws in a mortar, previously taking away brown fin and bag in head. Put in a stewpan, with bread- crumbs, anchovy, half an onion, small bunch herbs, strip lemon peel, and two quarts water ; simmer gently till all goodness is ex- tracted, and strain. Pound the spawn in a mortar, with tablespoon butter, little nutmeg, and half teaspoon flour, adding third of a pint each cream and milk and ]>utin stew})an with the tails cut in pieces, ^lake Forcemeat Balls with the remainder of the lo])ster, seasoned with mace, pepper, and salt, adding a little flour, and a few bread- crumbs ; moisten them with egg, heat them in soup and serve. For a FlUin Lobster Soup omit onions, anchovy and lemon peel.

Milk Soup. — Brown lightly a thinly-sliced onion in butter in a very hot frying-pan, add tablespoon flour and when brown add slowly pint boiling water. Cook briskly a few moments, place on back of stove and simmer two hours, add gill boiling water, a little salt and sugar and a pint of boiled new milk, boil up once and serve. Or With Eggs., boil two quarts milk with saltspoon salt, teaspoon powdered cinnamon, and three of sugar ; place four thin slices of bread in a deep dish, pour over it a little of the milk, and keep it hot over a stove, without burning. Beat up the yolks of six eggs, add them to milk, and stir it over fire till it thickens ; do not let it curdle ; pour upon the bread, and serve. Nice for cliildren. Bread may be toasted, if wished.

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Mock Turtle or Calfs-head Soup. — Lay one large calf's head well cleaned and washed, and four pig's feet, in bottom of a large kettle, and cover with a gallon water ; boil three hours, or until flesh will slip from bones ; take out head, leaving feet to be boiled steadily while meat is cut from head ; select with care enough of the fatty portions in top of head and cheeks to fill a teacup, and set aside to cool ; remove Drains to saucer, and also set aside ; chop rest of meat with tongue very fine, season with salt, pepper, pow- dered majoram and thyme, a teaspoon of cloves, one of mace, half as much allspice and grated nutmeg. When flesh falls from bones of feet, take out bones, leaving the gelatinous meat; boil all together slowly, without removing cover, for two hours more; take soup from fire and set away until next day. Skim off" fat an hour before dinner and set stock over fire, and when it boils strain carefully and drop in reserved meat, which should have been cut when cold, into small squares. Have these all ready as well as Force-meat Balls., to prepare which rub the yolks of five hard-boiled eggs to a paste in a mortar, or in a bowl with back of silver spoon, adding gradually the brains to moisten them, also a little butter and salt. Mix with these, two eggs beaten very light, flour hands and make this paste into balls about size of a pigeon's egg; throw them into soup five minutes before taking from fire ; stir in large tablespoon browned flour rubbed smooth in a little cold water, and finish the seasoning by addition of four tablespoons sherry or Maderia wine, and juice of a lemon. It should not boil more than half an hour on second day. Serve with sliced lemons. Some use

838 SOUPS.

Mutton Soup. — Boil a four or five 'pound leg of mutton two hours ; take out and place in oven to brown an hour, basting it often. To the broth add onion and potato chopped fine, half a cup of barley, soaked overnight in two cups water, and two large toma- toes ; season with pepper and salt, boil one hour, stir often (as bar- ley is apt to burn), and, before taking from the fire, add tablespoon flour wet with cold water if needed. Or take three or four pounds neck of mutton, cut up the meat, break the bones and put all in kettle with three quarts water. Let boil, skim, then simmer till a clear well-flavored broth ; add barley and vegetables as above, or barley, carrots, turnips, etc., may be used with bunch of herbs.

Noodle Soup. — Add noodles to beef or any other soup after strain- ing ; they will cook in fifteen or twenty minutes, and are prepared in the following manner : To one egg add as much sifted flour as it will absorb with a little salt : work it in wuth the fingers ten or fif- teen minutes, mixing it as stiff"as possible ; roll to a very thin sheet, fold and roll as thin as a wafer, dust lightly with flour and roll up tightly as a Jelly Roll ; slice from the ends with a thin sharp knife, shake out the strips loosely, let dry an hour or two and drop into soup and cook ten minutes. Some add two teaspoons water.

Okra Soup. — Take a nice joint of beef filled with marrow, gal- lon water, onion cut fine, two sprigs parsley, two quarts okra, one quart tomatoes ; boil meat six hours, add vegetables and boil two hours more. Or brown an onion with a slice of bacon or ham, then add vegetables as above, or two quarts tomato and one of okra, three quarts water and cook slowly two or three hours, seasoning to taste. Or for SoiU/ieni Gumho, prepare vegetables as in second recipe, adding a bay leaf and blade of mace, then cut up and fry brown a squirrel, chicken or piece of veal, add and cook till tender, seasoning wath pe])per, salt and a pinch cayenne. Take out meat and serve separately. Some always add a ham bone and a little grated or cut corn, and Lima beans are considered an improvement, and just before serving add four or five tablespoons boiled rice and histead of cayenne, tablespoon or two of green pepper chopped fine. Boil up once and serve.

Onion Soup. — Slice thin five or six medium-sized onions and fry brown in tablespoon butter, add two or three tablespoons flour, or rice flour makes it more delicate, and when latter is browned add slowly pint and a half boiling water, and a launch of sweet herbs as given in Bouillon; let boil up and then place on back of stove and simmer slowly an hour and a half. Then add three pints boiling milk or part cream, and four tablespoons mashed potato, mixed with a little milk or cream till smooth and rather thin. Lot boil few minutes. Season to taste, adding teaspoon sugar and half pint of Croutons and serve hot. If wished richer use stock instead of

SOUPS. 839

water and a little chopped celery added gives a delicious flavor. Boiled rice may be added instead of potato, and it may be served Avithout either, adding half cup soaked barley Avith stock or water.

Ox Tail Soup. — Saw the tail in thin round slices, cook slowly two hours in hot water, skim out slices and add to three quarts Plain Bouillon. In the meantime have carrots, turnips, onion etc., cut with a round cutter, as an apple corer, into lozenge shape pieces, about a pint in all, and cook them half an hour in a little water, add to soup. Add brown butter and flour thickening in small quantity, let soup simmer slowly until it becomes smooth and clear again, and skim until all fat is removed. (Season with salt and cayenne. Serve a slice or two of ox tail and some of the vegetables in each plate. When a soup like the foregoing has not a clear S3'rup-like sort of thickness or body, but is dull, like flour gravy it may be cleared by longer simmering and adding more stock with some cold tomato juice, or lemon juice, or even cold water, and skimming from the side. If not already light brown add a spoonful of Cara- mel. Some do not use the extra stock but separate ox tail at the joints, or cut in thin slices, and place in a gallon cold water Avith two slices ham and any vegetables wished, cut in thin slices. Sim- mer three or four hours till meat is tender, strain and serve with pieces of the ox tail in each dish.

Oyster Soup. — Put one quart stock, White Stock is nicest, in kettie, or Avater may be used ; add oyster liquor from quart of oys- ters, having drained latter in colander, pouring over them a half pint of the hot stock ; skim if necessary, put in oysters, let just come to a boil, set on back of range, stir in half cup crushed oyster crack- ers, three tablespoons butter, salt and Avhite pepper to taste, and then quart milk, Avhich has been boiled in custard kettle; or the milk may be placed in tureen and the soup poured over. Some sprinkle a little minced parsley over just before serving. If Avished A'ery nice, the oysters may be first scalded in their liquor, taken out and bearded and placed in tureen. To a pint of stock, add the beards and strained liquor and simmer half an hour ; strain, add three pints of stock, let come to l)oiling point, season as above, add half pint boiling cream, pour over oysters and serve at once. By cooking the beards a stronger flavor is procured and the oysters are more delicate Avithout them. For Mock Oyster Soup, take one teacup codfish, cut in half-inch squares. Freshen by covering Avith cold water, let it come to a boil, then pour off" and add cup Avater, quart SAveet milk, cup SAveet cream, tablespoon corn-starch, stirred smooth in a little cold milk, lump of butter size of an egg, pepper, and salt to taste. Serve with crackers or toast.

Parsnip Soup. — Brown three or four sliced parsnips in sauce- pan with tablespoon or two of butter, cooking them sloAvly, adding

840 SOUPS.

a gill stock and when they are tender add three gills more and cook half an hour ; rub through puree sieve and add quart stock, let boil up once and serve.

Pea Soup. — Boil three pints shelled green pease in three quarts water ; when quite soft, mash through colander, adding a little water to free the pulp from skins ; return pulp to water in which it was boiled, add head of lettuce chopped, and half a pint young pease; boil half an hour, season with salt and pepper, and thicken with two tablespoons butter rubbed into a little flour. Serve with bits of toasted bread. The soup, when done, should be as thick as cream. Some omit the lettuce. Or cook pint of pease till tender in two quarts boiling water, add two tablespoons butter, salt, white pepper and half pint cream or rich milk, tablespoon minced parsley and teaspoon sugar with a little thickening of corn-starch. Place on back of stove and add beaten yolks of one or two eggs and serve. With Carrots, add with the pease, half pint carrots cut in thin slices, as for Julienne Soup, and a pint more water and finish as above. With Sj)inach, add to pease one pint spinach prepared as for cooking ; or for a Triple Soup, use all three vegetables with three quarts water and finish as above. To make richer use Plain Bouillon instead of the water. With Onions, boil pint shelled pease tender, with a bunch parsley and two young onions in a very little water; rub through sieve and add two quarts any stock ; let it come just to boiling point and serve, as if boiled after the puree is added it is not of as fine color. For a Hasty Soup use cold cooked pease in same way. For Split Pea /Somj9, cut three-quarters pound of any kind of meat, odd pieces will do, in dice, always adding a little ham ; put in a gallon bean-pot with an onion, carrot, table- spoon rice and three gills split pease ; fill with cold

Pheasant Soup. — Cut up two pheasants and brown them with four tablespoons butter and two slices of ham ; put in soup kettle with two large onions sliced, half head celery and throe quarts of Plain Stock and simmer two hours. Strain, pound the breasts with the crumbs of two rolls, previously soaked, and hard-boiled yolks of two eggs ; add to the soup, let boil up once and serve. This can be

sonps. 841

made with the bones, pieces, etc., of the pheasants after being cooked, but of course will not be so rich. Any cold game can be used in this way.

Pot Au Feu. — Take a good-sized soup bone with plenty of meat on it, extract marrow and place in a pot on back of range, covering beef with three or more quarts cold water ; cover tightly, and allow to simmer slowly all day long. The next day, before heating, remove cake of grease from top, and add a large onion (previously stuck full of whole cloves, and then roasted in the oven till of a rich brown color), adding tomatoes or any other vegetables which one may fancy. A leek or a section of garlic adds much to the flavor. Rice may be added, or vermicelli for a change. Just before serving, add a teaspoon Caramel, giving a peculiar flavor and richer color to soup.

Potato Soup. — To gallon water add six large potatoes chopped fine, one teacup rice, lump of butter size of an egg, one tablespoon flour. Work butter and flour together, and add one teacup sweet cream just before taking from the fire. Boil one hour. Or With Milk, Doil four large potatoes in water till tender, drain, mash and add three pints milk in which have been boiled an onion and two stalks celery ; season with salt, tablespoon but- ter and white pepper, adding cup cream as above, or whipping it and putting in tureen ; rub through puree sieve and serve at once. Some parboil the onions in water tlien add to pota- toes and boil all together; mash and add the boiling milk with a little sago, cook fifteen minutes, stirring all the time, and serve with- out rubbing through sieve. A little butter or cream may be added, but however made,itmustbe served as soon as ready to be at its best.

Pumpkin Soup. — Put a scant pint of peeled and sliced pump- kin into a saucepan with six stalks celery chopped fine, tablespoon drippings or butter, teaspoon salt, quarter saltsijoon pepper, and three pints boiling water ; boil until vegetables can be rubbed through sieve ; return to saucepan, set it over fire, add pint boiling cream or milk, boil up once and serve with Croutons and some add a little thickening, and teaspoon sugar is an addition. Winter squash may be used same.

Rahbit Soup. — Make soup with the legs and shoulders of the rabbit, and keep nice pieces for a delicious entree. Put former into warm water, and draw the blood ; when quite clean, put them in a stewpan, with bunch of herbs, and a teacup or rather more, of veal stock, or water. Simmer slowly till done through, and add three pints of water, and boil for an hour. Take out the rabbit, pick the

842 SOUPS.

meat from the bones, covering it up to keep it white ; put bones back in the Hquor, add three stalks celery, one carrot, half an onion, blade mace, salt and white pepper to taste, and simmer for two hours ; skim and strain. Add the meat, reheat and serve.

Rice Soup. — Cook half cup rice in water till tender, add two quarts milk, or more if wished thinner, and half cup raisins, tea- spoon or two sugar and salt to taste ; set on back of stove and cook thirty or forty minutes or till raisins are tender and milk and rice well blended. Or put rice in boiling water five minutes, then drain and add it to two quarts boiling stock with half a bay leaf and cook till tender, season and serve. Rice can be used as a thicken- ing to any soup wished.

Saf/o Sou2^. — Wash three ounces sago in boiling water, and add it gradually to two quarts nearly boiling stock. Simmer half an hour, when it should be well dissolved. Beat up yolks of three eggs, add to them half pint boiling cream, stir quickly into the soup with teaspoon sugar and serve immediately. Do not let the soup boil, or the eggs will curdle. This soup is thought to act as tonic to the chest and throat.

Sheep's- Head Soup. — Wash and clean a nice head carefully, put it into kettle with Avater hardly sufficient to cover it ; when head is heated through, put in water almost to top of kettle. When very tender, which can be told by probing it with a fork, re- move, strip meat from bones, and put bones back into soup, together with an onion and a bunch of sweet herbs, and simmer till well flavored, then add the meat which has been cut into small portions, and serve. Or for leaked Soup, put head and feet into jar Avith two quarts water, an- onion, some sweet herbs, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Cover closely and bake. It can be served whole, or the meat may be removed from head, cut in pieces, and put with soup.

Spinach Soup. — Cook in covered saucepan with a little salt, but no water, till tender; squeeze out moisture and rub through a sieve. Add this pulp to as much stock as will make of consistency wished, let come to a boil, season and pour in tureen in which table- spoon butter has been placed. Making the spinach into balls and placing them in tureen and pouring over any hot stock or bouillon is a more elegant way of serving it.

Spring Soup. — To three quarts stock put an equal amount of white and yellow carrots cut in fancy shapes and let it boil slowly for an hour, then add cup string beans, cut in small pieces and as much asparagus, also cut in small })ieces, and a handful of pease. A half an hour latter add some cauliflower l)roken in small pieees, and let it boil until it is soft. Salt and popper to taste.

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Sorrel Soup. — After thoroughly washing leaves of garden sor- rel, put in kettle or stewpan, with no more water than adheres to them ; cover closely, and stew until tender, stirring occasionally, but covering each time. Have ready soaked some dried white beans, enough to make soup as thick as gruel ; put them on fire in cold water, and boil until beans are very tender. Put in bones from roasts, steaks, or fowls, and any pieces of cooked or uncooked meat and a small piece of lean salt pork, if liked. Any roast meat gravy or stock can be used instead of meat ; add an onion, a sprig of thyme, salt, pepper and a bay leaf. Skim out bones, etc., rub beans through sieve and add to soup with enough of the cooked sor- rel to make it taste pleasantly sour, let boil few moments and serve.

Tomato Soup. — Clear tomato soup should be as bright as wine, not highly colored or highly flavored, but thoroughly good, and should never be made until really wanted, as freshness of flavor is a matter of first importance. Prepare stock from leg of beef; that from bones and odd pieces will not do for this soup ; it must be strong and of a clear golden-brown color and without a particle of grease ; such as may be secured by stewing about six pounds of leg of beef slowly for one or two hours in three quarts of water; then pour off the stock, let stand till cold and the meat may be put on again to make a second stock for other purposes. To about three pints of this stock add from eight to tAvelve ripe tomatoes, accord- ing to size, cut in slices, or canned tomatoes may be used, one med- ium-sized onion, sliced, and a few slices of carrot and turnip ; boil half an hour and then strain off, taking care not to press any of the vegetables, which must not be over-cooked. To the clear soup add tablespoon of sugar and vinegar, one of Worcester sauce, and a lit- tle cayenne. If soup is not clear and bright, strain it through a folded towel in colander. Or skim and strain one gallon of stock made from nice fresh beef; take three quarts tomatoes, remove skin and cut out hard center, put through a fine sieve and add to the stock ; make a paste of butter and flour, and, when the stock begins to boil, stir in half a teacup, taking care not to have it lumpy ; boil twenty minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Two quarts canned tomatoes will answer. Some rub through a sieve and add teaspoon sugar, and others always stew the tomatoes as for cooking, seasoning with salt, pepper and butter,

844 SOUPS.

add tablespoon corn-starch dissolved in cold water ; strain before serving. With Rice, to two quarts stock add pint fresh or canned tomatoes, and cup boiled rice. Cook slowly half an hour and season to taste. Other vegetables may first be added, cooking an hour, then adding as above. For Meatless Tomato Soup, one quart each tomatoes and water ; stew till soft ; add teaspoon soda, allow to efifervesce, and add quart of boiling milk, salt, butter, and pepper to taste, with a little rolled cracker ; boil a few minutes and serve. Some do not use any water either with fresh or canned tomatoes, when cooking as above.

Turkey Soup. — After a roasted turkey has been served a por- tion of the meat still adheres to the bones, especially about the neck ; "drumsticks" are left, or parts of the wings, and pieces rarely called for at table. If there is three-fourths of a cupful or more left, cut off carefully and reserve for Force-meat Balls. Break bones apart and with stuffing still adhering to them, put in soup kettle with three quarts water, tablespoon salt, a pod of red pepper broken into pieces, three or four blades of celery cut into half inch pieces, a bay leaf, three medium-sized potatoes, and two onions all sliced. If dinner hour is one o'clock the kettle should be over fire before eight o'clock in the morning ; or if the dinner is at six in the evening, it should be on by twelve o'clock. Let it boil slowly, but constantly until about half an hour before dinner; lift out bones, skim off fat, strain through colander and return to kettle. There will now be but little more than three pints of the soup. If more than this is desired, add a pint of hot milk or milk and cream to- gether ; but it will be very nice without this addition even though a little more water be added. Prepare Forcemeat Balls by chop- ping the scraps of turkey very fine ; take half a teaspoon cracker- crumbs, smoothly rolled, a email saltspoon of cayenne pepper, about double the quantity of salt, a little grated lemon peel and half a teaspoon powdered summer savory or thyme ; mix these together and add a raw beaten egg to bind them. Roll mixture into balls about the size of a hickory-nut, and drop into the soup about ten minutes before serving. Have ready in tureen a large tablespoon of parsley, cut very fine. Pour in soup and send

Turnip Soup. — Put two thin slices nice lean ham in cold water to cook J in half hour add four thinly sliced turnips with more cold

SOUPS. 845

water ; as soon as tender, add half as many sliced potatoes as tur- nips. These will cook in twenty minutes ; season with salt, pepper, and a piece of butter ; cup cream improves it, and the ham may first be fried in kettle. Or melt two tablespoons butter in saucepan, add the sliced turnip as above with two onions also sliced ; when browned add cup water and cook an hour, then add two quarts any stock and simmer half an hour ; rub through a sieve, reheat and serve. The cream may be added to this also. If wanted a white soup do not brown the vegetables. For a Swiss Soup, cook six potatoes and three turnips sliced in six quarts water five hours or until perfectly dissolved and the consistency of Pea Soup, filling up as it boils away ; add butter size of an egg, season with salt and pepper, and serve. A small piece salt pork, a bone or bit of veal or lamb, and an onion may be added to vary this soup. For Royal Soup, cut the turnips into very small round balls and simmer till tender in two quarts of Bouillon ; add half cup strong veal stock and teaspoon sugar and pour in tureen in which pint of Croutons have been placed.

Turtle Soup. — Day before the soup is required, hang up turtle by hind fins, cut off" head, and leave to bleed and drain all night. In morning lay on its back on table, cut off fore fins, separate cal- ipash (upper shell), from calipee (under shell), beginning at hind fins ; be very careful in cutting flesh off the spine not to touch the gall bag, hold the knife sloping towards the bones. Cut off all fat that will be found adhering to calipash, and lean of calipee, then cut off" hind fins. Remove ^11 meat from calipee, and also from fins, cut into pieces two inches square, and put into a saucepan. Hold cali- pash, calipee and fins in scalding — not boiling — water for a few min- utes, which will cause the shells to separate easily. This done, cut shells into pieces six inches square, and put them into kettle with some light veal stock. Boil until meat is tender, take out and put into cold water, free meat from bones, and cut into inch-square pieces. Return bones to stock, boil gently two hours and then this portion of the stock is fit for use. Cut fins into pieces an inchAvide, boil in stock with an onion, two or three cloves, a bunch of parsley or thyme and a sprig of sweet basil and marjoram. When these are tender, take out and add this stock to the other. Now put lean meat into sauce- pan with a pint of Madeira or Sherry ; or water and Tarragon or plain vinegar half and half, four tablespoons chopped green shallot, two sliced lemons, a bunch of thyme, marjoram, sweet basil and savory — about a tablespoon of each when chopped, with double the quantity of parsley. Pound together one nutmeg, twelve allspice, one blade of mace, five or six cloves and a tablespoon each pepper and salt ; add

846 SOUPS.

]ian witli four large onions sliced, six bay leaves, three blades mace, twelve allspice, three-fourths pound butter, and cover with veal stock. Let this all simmer together till onions are melted, or like jelly. Shred fine a small bunch of basil, a large one of thyme, sav- ory and marjoram, and put to the onions, keeping them as green as possible. When done, sift into it a little flour, enough to thicken the soup. Then by degrees add stock in which calipash and cali- pee were boiled, and the seasoning stock maile from the lean turtle meat. Boil all together one hour, and then rub through a very tine strainer or woolen cloth, add salt, cayenne, and lemon to suit the taste. Now put in the meat of the turtle and let all boil together half an hour and serve. These directions are for a turtle of about fift}' pounds, and the ingredients can be increased or diminished according to size. Yolks of hard-boiled eggs are nice placed in tureen before adding soup, or make Force-meat Balls as follows ; take about a pound of fleshy i>art of a leg of veal, scrape off all the meat, without leaving any sinews or fat, and soak in milk about the same quantit}" of bread-crumbs. When well soaked, scjueeze it, and put into a mortar Avith the veal, a small quantity of calf's udder, a little butter, the yolks of four eggs, boiled hard, a little cayenne, salt, and spices, and pound very fine ; then thicken mixture with two whole eggs and yolk of another. Try this stuffing in boiling hot water, to ascertain its consistency; if it is too thin, add another yolk. When perfected, take half of it, and put into it some chopped parsley. Let the whole cool, in order to roll it of the size of the yolk of an egg ; poach it

Veal Soup. — To about three pounds of a well-broken joint of veal, add four quarts water, let boil, skim and simmer two or three hours ; prepare one-fourth pound macaroni by boiling by itself with enough water to cover and season to taste with salt and pepper, and add the macaroni with the Avater in which it was boiled. Onions or celery may be added for flavoring.

Vegetable Soup. — After boiling a soup bone or piece of beef un- til done, add to the broth boiling water to make the amount of soup

sou'ps. 847

wanted, and when boiling again add a large handful of cabbage cut fine as for slaw, a half pint of tomatoes, canned or fresh ; peel and slice and add three large or four small onions,two or three jjotatoes and some use a half teacup of dried or half pint of green corn (if dried it should be soaked). Let boil from half to three-quarters of an hour ; if thickening is wished stir an egg or yolk with a large spoon- ful milk and teaspoon flour, and put in five or ten minutes before taking off ; this makes it very rich. Serve with crackers. Or With- out Meat, take three each onions, carrots, and turnips, one small cabbage, one pint tomatoes ; chop all the vegetables except the to- matoes very fine, have ready jn a porcelain kettle three quarts boil- ing water, put in all except cabbage and tomatoes and simmer for half an hour, then add the chopped cabbage and tomatoes (the tomatoes previously stewed), also a bunch of sweet herbs. Let soup boil for twenty minutes, strain through sieve, rubbing all the vegetables through. Beat two tablespoons best butter ancl one of flour to a cream. Now pepper and salt soup to taste, and add a teaspoon white sugar, a half cup of sweet cream if at hand and then stir in the butter and flour ; let boil up and it is ready for table. Serve with Croutons, or poached eggs one in each dish. Or slice cabbage, carrots, turnips, parsnips, and cook as above, always re- membering to have water or stock boiling in which vegetables are placed ; when tender add stewed tomatoes rubbed through a sieve or not as wished ; whenever tomatoes are used in any soup it is a very great improvement to first stew them, either fresh or canned, seas- oning with butter, salt and pepper ; this m

Vermicelli Soup. — Put one chicken trussed for boiling in ket- tle with a pound or so of bacon and three quarts water and cook till tender; in the meantime cook two or three ounces vermicelli in a little water or stock till quite tender ; take out chicken and bacon on dish for serving; add vermicelli to soup and serve. Some stick eight or ten cloves in bacon.

Weimar Soup. — Cut any pieces of corned beef or salt pork, about two pounds, in small pieces, add two or three quarts water

848 SOUPS.

and simmer two or three hours ; add three each carrots, parsnips, turnips, potatoes and stalks celery and one small cabbage, all cut in thin small slices. Add gill oatmeal, cook an hour and serve with- out straining. Split pease may be used adding them Avith the meat. The meat may need soaking if very salt. Any Bouillon or stock may be made of corned beef using more water with it when prepar- ing for serving, and always when boiling corned beef save the broth for either soup or gravy. A soup can be made like the Weimar of fresh meat.

White Soup. — Cover bones from cooked chickens ; three pounds veal bones, cracked in pieces, pound l^n veal cut in small pieces, a minced onion and bunch parsley with cold water and liquor in which chickens were cooked if boiled. Simmer two or three hours, strain, return to kettle, season, boil up, skim, and add pint milk and as much cooked farina as wished ; place on back of stove, simmer ten minutes and then add a beaten egg first mixed well with a cup of the soup, keep covered a moment or two and then serve. Or cook gently an hour and a quarter a half pint each white turnip and cel- ery and half a gill onion, all cut in small pieces with a blade of mace in one gallon White Stock. Strain, reheat, add tablespoon corn-starch mixed smoothly in Avater, let boil,^dd cup sweet cream and season with salt and white jjepper. Add egg as above and serve.

Wyntoun Sottp- — r*ut three pounds neck of mutton, meat sliced and bones broken, in three quarts water, with two each carrots and turnips sliced and cook four hours ; take out meat and bones, rul) soup and vegetables through sieve, let cool, take off fat, reheat, season and add half cup barley, soaked overnight, and quart green pease ; simmer half an hour, add teaspoon sugar and serve. Or cook half cup barley in quart Avater till tender, add C{uarter of a turnip, if large, a small onion and two potatoes, all chopped fine ; when cooked add more water and stock from boiled corned beef till well flavored and seasoned. Remove to back of stove, add pint cream or milk and serve.

Balls for Soup. — There are many different articles served in soup besides those given, such as fancy letters, stars, triangles, etc., which may be purchased, and also the French Paste which comes in squares in little boxes. This is used more for coloring and flavor- ing; place in tureen and pour soupover it, stirring assoup is served. Among the diflerent balls used are the Egff Halls, mix raw egg with just enough flour or corn-starch to make into round balls, then drop into soup and boil ten minutes. A little milk, a teaspoon to one egg, is an improvement ; also a sprinkle of salt. Or for two quarts soup make balls by boiling one egg hard ; put yolk of it in a bowl, pound to a paste and l)reak in a raw egg yolk, add a dust cayenne pepper, tables])oon salad oil, saltspoon salt, and flour to

SOUPS. 849

roll into balls with the hands about a teaspoon. Put dry flour on both hands, use saltspoon of mixture, or make a long roll and cut offends and make into balls ; have deep saucepan half full of boil- ing water, put in egg balls and let them boil till they come to top, then take out with strainer, put in soup when ready to serve, or some cook them in soup. They are also nice served with other dishes ; or to yolks of three eggs use one raw yolk and omit the salad oil. Some use the raw white of the egg rather than yolk and also care- fully fry brown in butter or any nice fat ; then place in tureen and pour over the soup. For Farina BaMs, boil quart milk in custard kettle, add salt and tablespoon butter, and thicken with farina. Cook well, and when cold stir one whole egg and one yolk through the mixture. Make into balls or shape with spoon, and drop in the boiling soup just before serving. For Force-meat Balls., add to pound chopped beef one egg, a small lump butter, a cup or less of bread-crumbs ; season with salt and pepper, and moisten with the water from stewed meat ; make in balls and fry brown ; or take slices of raw veal and a little salt pork, and chop very fine with a slice of wheat bread. Season highly with pepper, salt, tomato catsup, and chopped lemon peel, moisten with two well-beaten eggs, and roll into balls as large as a walnut, with floured hands. Fry the balls in butter to a dark brown, and let them cool ; turn into the soup and boil about ten minutes. Or for Veal Balls take half pint each minced cooked veal and bread-crumbs with half gill chopped suet seasoned Avith salt, pepper and any sweet herbs liked. Add beaten egg sufficient to make into balls and fry

Croutons. — These are different shapes of bread, without crust, cut and fried or toasted. For Soups, cut in dice about third of an inch square or even less and fry in butter in frying-pan or in a ket- tle of smoking-hot fat like fritters till a golden brown, drain and add to tureen or put a spoonful in each dish and add soup. Some simply toast the bread, then cut it; or butter or not as wished, cut and toast in oven, serving as above. Crackers crisped in oven are

850 SOUPS.

nice for Oyster soup. For Entrees, cut bread in heart-shaped pieces about two inches long and half an inch thick and fry or toast as above. For Vegetahles, cut in triangular pieces one and a half inches long, same thickness and fry as above.

Dumplhujs. — These are a nice addition to soups and are made in many ways, but however made, a little cold water should be added to soup to stop the boiling just before they are put in (there are one or two exceptions) and then the soup must not cease boiling for at least ten or fifteen minutes when they will be done; it is also very important the cover fits closely that steam does not escape. For Buckeye Dumplbigs, take half pint sweet milk, two eggs, iind enough flour to make stiff batter; drop off spoon into the soup and cook ten minutes. For Marroiu Dumplings^ which are very deli- cate and can be varied in seasoning to suit any soup, beat one ounce uncooked marrow and tablespoon butter to a cream ; add two well-beaten eggs and half pint bread-crumbs which should previously well be soaked in boiling milk, strained, and beaten up with a fork. When well mixed add teaspoon each minced parsley and onion with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg to taste, omitting the minced onions where the flavor is very much dishked, and form the mixture into small round dumplings. Drop these into boihng soup and let them simmer for about half an hour. Serve in soup and they are also very nice with roast meats or salad. Grated lemon peel and mace make a nice seasoning and they are ready to serve as soon as they rise to .'sur- face ; butter may be omitted if wished. For Suet Dumplings, take pint and a half flour, two thirds of a pint l>eef suet, half teaspoon baking powder, saltsjioon salt, half pint of cold water. Mix in a large bowl, the suet, hnoly chopped, and flour ; add to this the bak- ing powder and salt and knead into a dr}'- dough with the water. Divide this dough in small pieces, roll each piece

SOUPS. 851

Mixed Spices. — These with herbs prepared by professional cooks, may be had in large cities, and save much trouble. For the benefit of those who cannot obtain them we give two of the best recipes. Take one ounce each nutmegs and mace, two ounces each cloves and white pepper-corns ; an ounce each sweet basil, marjoram and thyme, and half an ounce bay leaves. The herbs must of course be previously dried as directed, page 163. Pound the spices to crack them, then put all between two sheets white paper folded to cover them tightly and put in warm place to become perfectly dry. Then pound quickly, put through a sieve and put away in tightly corked bottles. Or mix one ounce each lemon-thyme, winter savory, sweet marjoram and basil, two ounces parsley,and an ounce lemon peel,all previously dried ; pound, sift and bottle as above. Mint, sage, pars- ley and all herbs should be dried, pounded and sifted and bottled separately for winter use. Black pepper, when prepared as a con- diment, should be powdered not ground, that all heating may be avoided, and the volatile oil and fine aromatic flavor retained.

852 VEGETABLES.